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  • Why is my cat5e cable not okay?

    - by torbengb
    My LAN cable seems to work (indicator LED lights up) but the computer can't find a connection. What's wrong? Setup: I had to run a network cable from a router in one room to a computer to another room, through a hole in the wall that was too small to pass the RJ-45 plug through. The plug was cut off and the cable passed through the wall. Then a new plug was crimped on using this detailed explanation. The connection didn't work because the (factory-made!) plug in the other end used a non-standard wire order. I crimped a new plug on again, using the exact same order of the factory-made plug. The LED indicator lights up on both ends, but the computer cannot find a connection. What can be wrong? How can I find out? I don't have a cable tester. By visually inspecting my new plug, I think it's good; the wire order matches the other end, and all wires are all the way inside the plug and reach the connector piece. I've used the cable before (with both factory-made ends) so i don't think that the cable itself has a defect.

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  • Cat5 vs Cat5e vs Cat6 cable confusion

    - by David Hayes
    I'm just about to move house so I'm going to have to disconnect and re-wire my network. Pretty much all the devices I have support gigabit ethernet should I go out an buy some decent network cables (and if so what type) or should I continue using my mix of cat5 cables I've acquired over the years. Does the type of cable really make a difference to my LAN performance??

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  • What's wrong with my custom patch cables?

    - by stu42j
    I have a box of bulk Cat5e riser cable left over from when I had my house wired. I figured I could use this to make some custom length cables for connecting my computers, switches, etc. I had a crimper already so I bought a bag of RJ45 plugs. I made a few cables several years ago, but my experience/knowledge with this sort of thing is minimal. None of my cables are working. I don't have a tester so I just plug the cable into a computer and switch but I get no link light. I wired them them all straight-through and visual inspection doesn't show any problems. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?

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  • Why would cat6 connectors not work with cat5e patch cable?

    - by Lee Tickett
    I had a naff batch of cat5 connectors (the latching mechanism didn't work) so decided to order in some cat6 connectors in preparation for the inevitable upgrade. My existing reel of for making patch cables is cat5e utp stranded. I made up a few cables and tested them- none of them worked. I recrimped and still nothing. When i check them with a multi-meter not all pins are connected. This reel has always worked with the previous cat5 connectors so I tested the cat6 connectors on a reel of solid cat5e cable and they work fine. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong? Or what might be at fault? (cable/connectors) and how I can diagnose? Thanks Lee

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  • Does using cat5e cables yield any disadvantages in combination with cat6/cat6a network?

    - by agent154
    If I were to have a fully compliant cat6 or cat6a network running through my walls... that is to say, wires and jacks... What would be the concequence of plugging a cat5e wire into one of the jacks? I'm assuming that it would still run at cat5e standards, but obviously not cat6/6a standards because the whole connection is not cat6. I only ask because it seems silly to me to make a bunch of cat6 patch cables for connections that don't really matter, like standard desktop computers and other equipment. Or will doing so hamper the whole network?

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  • Identifying a CAT6 cable in a bundle

    - by Jon Tackabury
    We had a contractor wire up our office with all the cables leading back to a central location. The only problem is that he didn't label anything, so we have no idea which cables go to which room. One end of the cable is terminated in a wall-jack (in the rooms), the other end is un-terminated and will be punched to a patch panel. Is there a way to identify the cables without having to terminate them? We'd like to group the cables on the patch panel by room, but I don't want to crimp/punch each cable twice. Thanks!

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  • Is it better to use N WiFi or Cat5e ethernet for large file transfers?

    - by Seth
    I have a network containing 802.11 N WiFi Devices and gigabit ethernet devices, however using only Cat5e wiring. I know that if I used Cat6, the ethernet would be much faster however if I need to transfer a large file between a device thats connected normally connected via ethernet and a device thats normally connected via WiFi, would it be advantageous to bother plugging the WiFi device in to the network? or should I switch the ethernet device to WiFi? or does it really matter?

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  • Looking for a fiber optic "switch" or "router" for home use

    - by Shrout1
    The gist of my question: What is a "fiber optic" switch called? I.E. a layer 2 ethernet switch that uses fiber TX and RX connections and sends layer 2 network traffic between the fiber strands that are connected. Can someone purchase a dedicated fiber switch that does not have copper ethernet ports? What is the current average price of a device like this? Not necessarily looking for product endorsements, just information Might not make sense to go this route if it is too cost prohibitive What type of fiber connector is used for terminating a fiber strand into a jack on the wall? Can fiber be "patched" using two jacks and a "patch" cable? Is signal loss a concern with the longest runs at 100-200ft, a patch cable and media converters? The full story: My parents had unterminated fiber optic cable and terminated Cat5e run throughout their home when it was built in 2004. 10 years later the Cat5e isn't providing the throughput that my father needs to accomplish multiple streams of HD and fast system backups throughout the house. He can't reach gigabit speeds across the distance of the Cat5e runs. We are both interested in terminating the fiber connections and using them as high speed "backbones" to copper switches in each room of the house. It would be easy to attain gigabit speeds (or better, eventually) using the fiber. I have searched and searched for a "fiber optic switch" or "fiber optic router" and cannot find the correct term to describe this piece of hardware. We can use fiber media converters at the end points of each connection, however it would be nice to have a "patch panel" set up in the network closet in the basement that has fiber connections on it and switches the ethernet streams between the connections/systems in the house. Each fiber media converter costs between $50-$100 a piece... After 10 or so terminated connections it might make sense to find a piece of hardware that does not require media converters. That would depend upon the cost of this hardware Somewhat unrelated, if we are able to route between these fiber strands successfully, what is the physical connector type used in a jack on the wall? Just like RJ45 has a wall outlet (depicted below): What is the fiber optic equivalent of this? In the interim could we "patch" a couple fiber strands together in the network closet? Would signal loss be of concern with a run length of 100-200 feet, a patch cable and two media converters? If that would work then it could be used until the funds are available for more.

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  • Creating a Network link between 2 buildings

    - by Adam
    Hey My company needs to create a network link between two buildings. Currently we have a cat5e network in one building and would like to connect some computers(about 15) in our second building to the main network in the first building. The distance between the two buildings is 30 metres. The 30 metres means going through a wall from the first building. Going through the car park and then through a wall into the other building. We can run any cables through speed ramps and so we do not need to dig up the road! Also the second building does not have an Internet connection and so we have to create some sort of cable link so that they can share our Internet connection. Ideas? Should we just run cat5e? Should we run fibre? Should we run coaxial?

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  • Is there a performance difference between Cat5 and Cat6 keystone blocks?

    - by Scott Anderson
    I'm going to be wiring my home for ethernet soon, and I've already decided that I want to use Cat6 cable to do it (faster speeds, better performance, etc). During the installation, I'd like to add wall-plates to certain rooms in my house, and the keystone blocks look like the best option for me. My question is: I've seen different keystone blocks on many cabling websites, some say Cat5e and some say Cat6. The Cat6 ones are slightly more expensive. Is there any noticeable performance gain from using a Cat6 keystone? To me, it just seems like the keystone really wouldn't matter, since it's basically like putting an RJ-45 end on a cable. Can I buy the cheaper Cat5e keystone blocks and still have the performance that Cat6 cable will give me? Thanks!

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  • Gigabit LAN not working on ASUS M2N-MX

    - by chmod
    Today I replace my FastEthernet switch with a newly bought gigabit switch (DGS-1008A). All computers in my house are displaying that the connection speed is 1 Gbps except for one. The computer that is not working is an ASUS M2N-MX which contain an onboard gigabit NIC. See ASUS link for confirmation http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2/M2NMX/ Here are some info of the machine OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64bit BIOS version: 1004 (latest) Driver: installed via Windows update (latest from Windows update) Windows Update: fully updated The machine is reformatted 3 days ago, so it's pretty clean, no junk, no virus, etc Cable: Amp CAT5E 5 meters In device manager, the name of the NIC is "NVIDIA nForce 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet" What I have try: I did try to install the driver provided in ASUS website, but there isn't any for Windows 7 64 or Vista 64. I did try to install the latest nForce340/6100, downloaded from Nvidia website. However, the LAN driver refuse to install, it complain that I already have the best driver installed. I looking in the property -- advance tab -- Speed/duplex settings, in an attempt to force it to run at 1000Mbps, but there is no 1000Mbps choice, only 10 and 100Mpbs. I change the CAT5E cable (use one from another computer that is running gigabit without problem) Anyone have this issue or know how to solve it? Thanks

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  • Poor home office network performance and cannot figure out where the issue is

    - by Jeff Willener
    This is the most bizarre issue. I have worked with small to mid size networks for quite a long time and can say I'm comfortable connecting hardware. Where you will start to lose me is with managed switches and firewalls. To start, let me describe my network (sigh, shouldn't but I MUST solve this). 1) Comcast Cable Internet 2) Motorola SURFboard eXtreme Cable Modem. a) Model: SB6120 b) DOCSIS 3.0 and 2.0 support c) IPv4 and IPv6 support 3-A) Cisco Small Business RV220W Wireless N Firewall a) Latest firmware b) Model: RV220W-A-K9-NA c) WAN Port to Modem (2) d) vlan 1: work e) vlan 2: everything else. 3-B) D-Link DIR-615 Draft 802.11 N Wireless Router a) Latest firmware b) WAN Port to Modem (2) 4) Servers connected directly to firewall a) If firewall 3-A, then vlan 1 b) CAT5e patch cables c) Dell PowerEdge 1400SC w/ 10/100 integrated NIC (Domain Controller, DNS, former DHCP) d) Dell PowerEdge 400SC w/ 10/100/1000 integrated NIC (VMWare Server) 4) Linksys EZXS88W unmanaged Workgroup 10/100 Switch a) If firewall 3-A, then vlan 2 b) 25' CAT5e patch cable to firewall (3-A or 3-B) c) Connects xBox 360, Blu-Ray player, PC at TV 5) Office equipment connected directly to firewall a) If firewall 3-A, then vlan 1 b) ~80' CAT6 or CAT5e patch cable to firewall (3-A or 3-B) c) Connects 1) Dell Latitude laptop 10/100/1000 2) Dell Inspiron laptop 10/100 3) Dell Workstation 10/100/1000 (Pristine host, VMWare Workstation 7.x with many bridged VM's) 4) Brother Laser Printer 10/100 5) Epson All-In-One Workforce 310 10/100 5-A) NetGear FS116 unmanaged 10/100 switch a) I've had this switch for a long time and never had issues. 5-B) NetGear GS108 unmanaged 10/100/1000 switch a) Bought new for this issue and returned. 5-C) Linksys SE2500 unmanaged 10/100/1000 switch a) Bought new for this issue and returned. 5-D) TP-Link TL-SG10008D unmanaged 10/100/1000 a) Bought new for this issue and still have. 6) VLan 1 Wireless Connections (on same subnet if 3-B) a) Any of those at 5c b) HP Laptop 7) VLan 2 Wireless Connection (on same subnet if 3-B) a) IPad, IPod b) Compaq Laptop c) Epson Wireless Printer Shew, without hosting a diagram I hope that paints a good picture. The Issue The breakdown here is at item 5. No matter what I do I cannot have a switch at 5 and have to run everything wireless regardless of router. Issues related to using a switch (point 5 above) SpeedTest is good. Poor throughput to other devices if can communicate at all. Usually cannot ping other devices even on the same switch although, when able, ping times are good. Eventual lose of connectivity and can "sometimes" be restored by unplugging everything for several days, not minutes or hours but we're talking a week if at all. Directly connect to computer gives good internet connection however throughput to other devices connected to firewall is at best horrible. Yet printing doesn't seem to be an issue as long as they are connected via wireless. I have to force the RV220W to 1000Mb on the respective port if using a Gig Switch Issues related to using wireless in place of a switch (point 5 above) Poor throughput to other devices if can communicate. SpeedTest is good. Bottom line Internet speeds are awesome. By the way, Comcast went WAY above and beyond to make sure it was not them. They rewired EVERYTHING which did solve internet drops. Computer to computer connections are garbage Cannot get switch at 5 to work, yet other at 4 has never had an issue. Direct connection, bypass switch, is good for DHCP and internet. DNS must be on server, not firewall. Cisco insists its my switches but as you can see I have used four and two different cables with the same result. My gut feeling is something is happening with routing. But I'm not smart enough to know that answer. I run a lot of VM's at 5-c-3, could that cause it? What's different compared to my previous house is I have introduced Gigabit hardware (firewall/switches/computers). Some of my computers might have IPv6 turned on if I haven't turned it off already. I'm truly at a loss and hope anyone has some crazy idea how to solve this. Bottom line, I need a switch in my office behind the firewall. I've changed everything. The real crux is I will find a working solution and, again, after days it will stop working. So this means I cannot isolate if its a computer since I have to use them. Oh and a solution is not throwing more money at this. I'm well into $1k already. Yah, lame.

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  • Baseline 2952-SFP normal?

    - by Atlas
    I just installed a 3com 2952-sfp, and I had its port #48 connected to another gigabit switch through a cat5e cable. Now when I look at the logs, I see the lines shown below: Mar 23 11:20:15:829 2010 MSTP Critical PFWD Instance 0's GigabitEthernet1/0/48 has been set to forwarding state! Mar 23 11:20:15:822 2010 IFNET Warning LINK UPDOWN GigabitEthernet1/0/48: link status is UP Mar 23 11:20:12:974 2010 IFNET Warning LINK UPDOWN GigabitEthernet1/0/48: link status is DOWN The above happens like dozens of times per day, is there something wrong with my setup?

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  • Should I remove all unmanged switches from my network?

    - by IMAbev
    I have a office network with approx 150 devices (computers/printers/ip phones). Almost all of the end point devices have straight run Cat5e from my Hp switches directly to the device. IP phones for each end user sit between the hp switch and computer. (hp switch - in to phone out of phone in to computer) While I have gotten rid of most of them, I still have a couple linksys unmanaged switches that split off to 2 or more devices. I have heard various reasons for removing these switches but not entirely sure if it actually degrades the network. I agree that eliminating these switches certainly cleans up the network from a management standpoint. Are these unmanaged switches bad for my network? Is there a clear advantage to having 'home run' cable runs to each of my end point devices?

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  • Moving Portable Office. Have a LAN & Phone line query?

    - by John Smith
    We are about to move a portable office that has 8 phones and 12 lan connections. They are all wired back to our main switch and Nortel bcm200 phone system which are only about 20m (65ft) away. After the move the office will be 180m (600ft) away from these. What is the maximum length of cable a digital phone line can be? I am aware that a lan connection can only be 100m (305ft) when using cat5e utp. Does this rule apply to phone connections also? If so how can I extend beyond 100m for the phones? I was going to install about three cabinets, 3 switches and 6 patch panels for the lan connections but the ideal struck me tonight that maybe I could run a fibre optic line. Would this be feasible? Any feedback on this is greatly appreciated. Thanks

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  • Need Recommendations: Network Software and Hardware Setup for small firm

    - by Rogue
    Will be starting a small graphics design firm soon, with 20 employees. Therefore need software to manage the network. Have bought a bulk license of Windows 7. I have a spare computer which can act as a server if necessary, but its an ancient Dell machine (Pentium-III). If required I would purchase an extra machine, but would like to avoid unnecessary costs at start up. Following are the main functions that I would like to perform: Need to monitor\control network traffic and internet usage, restrict access to certain websites Alerts when access to certain software's, and when trying to tamper with privileges Ability to view desktops of any computer at any given time Limit access to certain hardware like USB ports,etc Limit access to folders on the computer Log/Report of all actions including keystrokes performed on any computer Local Network chat and talk client Collaboration and Work logs Any Software available to do all of the above and also any additional hardware required besides network switches, network card's and CAT5e cables. Any other recommendations besides the above mentioned hardware setup

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  • wireless network with cable modem and access point

    - by hayri
    I have a Scientific Atlanta EPC2203 cable modem and a TP-Link TL-WA500G access point. When I connect my computer directly to modem with a CAT5e cable I have internet connection on my laptop (when i type ipconfig i see my external ip there, provided by isp). So I decided to have wireless network in the flat, allowing other devices to connect as well. I bought this wireless ap (TL-WA500G) configured Wireless security stuff, and connected it to my modem. With that configuration (by default AP has static ip of 192.168.1.254) only my computer can connect to internet over wifi, but not any other device. When I set the IP of AP to Dynamic IP (DHCP) it is the same. How should I change my configuration to enable all wifi devices to connect to internet?

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  • How to achieve reliable Gigabit Ethernet Link with my Acer Aspire Revo R3610?

    - by The Operator
    I want to stream HD movies over my wired Gigabit LAN from my PC to my Acer Aspire Revo R3610. It's connected with a 3ft Cat5e patch cable to my Netgear GS605v2 Switch. The PC acting as File Server is connected at 1Gbps to the Switch. Network driver options are set to defaults, including automatic speed/duplex negotiation on both machines. The Revo will not connect to my Network Switch at 1Gbps - the OS reports that it reverts to 100Mbps either shortly after connection or immediately upon connection. Through a process of elimination (trying different drivers, patch cables, ports on the switch, and other 1Gbps-capable devices connected to the Network switch which successfully achieve 1Gbps links and performance) I have drawn the conclusion there is either a Hardware or Software (Driver) issue with the Revo itself. I have performed tests using Windows 7 and Ubuntu 9.10. Can anyone offer insight on Gigabit Ethernet with the Revo?

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  • Shielded ethernet cable and ethernet sockets earthing how to?

    - by ageis23
    Hi I'm going to install 5 Ethernet sockets in my house using cat5e shielded cable. I decided to use this because the sockets will be on the second floor and the most practical way up is within a trunk along with some mains wiring. The cable will be terminated at the router and at the Ethernet faceplate. What can I use to earth then? The faceplate/router are both plastic hence no earth wire needed. I can't use the earth wire within the main socket can I? I figured it will be very very dangerous. I don't want to be connecting to the earth block on the mains either since I totally incompetent when it comes to mains electricity.

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  • Cable installed - now my hub has no connection the router/modem - what do I need to buy?

    - by bcmcfc
    My previous setup was as follows: [modem/router]------[switch]+------ [pc1] +------ [pc2] I've just moved and had cable installed and I no longer have the option of running a lengthy LAN cable from the router to the switch to provide network and internet access to the two PCs. The cable company provided 2 wireless N USB adapters. What do I need to buy to plug into where in order to restore the network to its previous state? PC1 dual boots Windows 7 and Ubuntu 12. PC2 runs Debian 6. Edit: USB adapters - Netgear WNDA3200 Switch - TP-Link TL-SF1008D 8 port Ethernet switch Cabling - various patch cables cat5e rj45 Modem/Router - pretty standard cable company job - wireless Intention is something like- [modem/router] --wifi-- [some-new-hardware or perhaps to pc1] ----[switch]---[pc1/2]

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  • What's a good box to serve files on my local network, cross platform?

    - by rogpeppe
    I've installed CAT5e cable and gigabit switches in my house with the goal of having an "always-on" file server in the loft, accessible to both my macbook and my partner's Windows box. I'd like to find a solution which: uses minimal power. allows me to access as much disk bandwidth as possible. provides glitch-free file access to both MacOS and Windows. is as cheap as possible, while remaining reliable. Optional, but desirable extras: software or hardware RAID; open source solutions. A SheevaPlug with eSATA seems one possibility, but I'm sure there are any number of other good options.

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  • How to wire 20 computers and 20 phones and 1 server into LAN?

    - by John Smith
    I have currently 3 switches Two Netgear JFS524 with 24 slots, One Belkin with 16 slots. Server DSL Internet Router. Main question is how to connect switches together, two Netgear's are next to each other, yet one is about 100 feet away and holds about 5 computer and 5 phones. If i connect them with only 1 wire will that limit bandwidth? e.g. all 23 computers will be limited to speed of one CAT5e cable? If i connect switches with 2 cables will this give speed boost? What's the ideal scenario should i just move the third switch next to other two? Will the speed of computer connected to white switch be same as computer connected to top switch? Will moving white switch right next top switch and having 16 wires comming 100 feet instead of 1 wire comming 100 feet make it faster? EDIT 1: I actually have NETGEAR ProSafe GS105 Gigabit switch its only has 4 ports in it though, you think i can have use of it in current setup? Like connect all 3 switches and server into it and keep internet router and phone server on one of the slower switches EDIT 2: Everyone mention gigabit switches, but will they do any difference with 10/100 network cards? I then have to use gigabit cards in every computer too? I could in server perhaps, but users will be 10/100

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  • Does water damage a fiber optic / cat5 cable

    - by chris
    One of the buildings I support recently had an adventure with a broken fire sprinkler. Lots of water everywhere. One of the "drains" the water used was the vertical risers between network closets. The cable plant in this building has bundles of cat5e as well as conduit with bundles of multimode fiber optic cables. The fiber is standard multi strand plenum rated stuff that terminates in boxes that have the patches to the switches. As far as I can tell, no water got near the ends of the cables (fiber or copper) but the conduit was saturated, and is likely still saturated because there isn't any air flow to dry the cables out. My gut reaction is that while it didn't do the cables any favors, it likely also isn't going to cause any problems. A little more reading / googling around leads me to believe that the water may cause problems down the road. Some pretty pictures so everyone knows what I'm talking about: Fiber conduit: Vertical riser, going down: Vertical riser, going up: Does anyone have any experience with this sort of damage and how to deal with it? Should we just ask the insurance adjuster to add "pull new structured cable" to the list of things to be replaced? And, if the opinion is "replace it because it'll start failing randomly over time" please include links that describe the specific failure modes, so I've got some ammo to use with the adjuster.

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