Search Results

Search found 14 results on 1 pages for 'coaxial'.

Page 1/1 | 1 

  • Audigy 2 Coaxial to Coaxial/Optical connection possible?

    - by Chris
    Hello, The original question is deleted, and asked again below with accurate information. Edit: Excuse me for my ignorance, my friend has a Logitech Z-5500 set. I thought after comparing those systems on Google images that he had the Z-680, but he hasn't. This set has a single Digital coaxial for DVD or CD players or PC sound cards (requires coaxial cable, sold separately) cable. This single cable was connected to the orange tulip connector (SPDIF coaxial out) on the backside of his onboard HP Elite m9070, this connector is broken. How can I use the digital out with a single cable coaxial cable on the Audigy2 (see image below) (I have the following converters for my disposal, can I use one of these? 3.5 mm male - coax optical mini optical male - toslink optical female 2 x toslink optical female, toslink coupler, optical audio extension note: Is it possible to connect a toslink cable with an mini optical male - toslink converter on the digital out of the Audigy 2? (see image below)

    Read the article

  • Number of Splitters on Coaxial Connection and Cable Internet Quality of Service

    - by Matthew Ruston
    Does running multiple coaxial splitters on a single coaxial cable line effect quality of service for cable internet connections? Suppose there are 2-4 splitters between the cable line coming into a building before the connection to a cable modem, does this negatively effect the latency, throughput, etc of a cable internet connection by any measurable amount? Is there a maximum number of times that a coaxial cable can be split into multiple internet and TV connections before QoS suffers?

    Read the article

  • Wiring my internet

    - by u8sand
    I have Verizon internet service and am currently using wifi. My router is in the basement and my desktop computer is 2 floors and on the other side of the house above it... Worst possible positioning but that's just how things worked out. My wireless currently is extremely unstable so I've decide to correct the problem by wiring my computer directly. The problem lies here: when redoing the room next to it (when the wall was open) we went ahead and wired some coaxial cable from our attic to our basement (with plenty of slack on both ends, don't ask me why we didn't go ahead and wire a CAT6 cable). The question is: Can I use the coaxial cable to bring me internet connection? Naturally the router (which needs to stay where it is) takes a coaxial cable input and has Ethernet outputs. So maybe I would have to take a ethernet cable, convert to coaxial-coaxial to my computer, convert back to ethernet. Is this even possible to convert from coaxial to ethernet? Or do I have to attempt to go ahead and fish a cat6 cable through my house. I cannot just split the signal because that would require two routers and two networks (which I don't believe would work with one cable-one ISP correct me if I'm wrong). Thanks

    Read the article

  • Splitting coax cable for PC tuner

    - by TheLakersHighlights
    I have an HDTV connected with HDMI from a DISH Network VIP612 DVR Receiver. I want to split the coaxial connection from the DVR to my Hauppauge 1200 WinTV HVR-850 HDTV Tuner Stick. What splitter and coaxial cable (needs to transmit audio and video) should I get to make this a watchable TV on my computer?

    Read the article

  • "Modern" Ethernet over coax

    - by Electrons_Ahoy
    So, I've just bought a house. It's reasonably new - built in the early '00s. One of the features that got built in was a cable TV drop in every room. The cabling is gorgeous - there's even a wiring cabinet of sorts in a closet where the cables all tie together to the splitter to the outside line. Of course, my problem is that I only own the one TV. I do, however, own a few computers. What I would love to be able to do is drop a switch in the wiring closet and run 100/1000BASE-T ethernet over the coax in the walls I wouldn't otherwise be using. My fantasy would be if you could get some kind of adapter-plug-thing that would take a coax plug on one side and a cat5/RJ45 plug on the other. Had anyone else done this? Any suggestions? (There are a few other options that suggest themselves - first, I could just use the existing cabling channels and re-run cat5 or 6 through the walls. While tempting, that sounds like more work than I really want to put in, so I'm calling that Plan B. Also, I could just scare up a mess of old 10BASE2 cards and run the house on thinnet, all mid-90s style. While I think I'd get major style points for that, I don't think I can get a 10BASE2 adapter for the new laptop. Also, I have all these super-snazzy gigabit adaptors I'd like to be using. And so forth.)

    Read the article

  • PCI Tv Tuner not receiving signal

    - by C-dizzle
    I inherited an Angel II PCI Dual TV Tuner card, popped it into my computer's PCI slot, plugged in my coax cable, but am having trouble getting any type of signal to it. The computer I am using is Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit, I know the card works because the computer recognizes it and installs the drivers, or at least I assume it works because of that. I'm trying to use Windows Media Center to watch/record tv. Here are a few things I have tried to get it working: Uninstalled/Reinstalled the newest drivers Tried hooking up an antenna to the coax input instead of my cable Instead of using cable splitter, went directly from wall output into card with coax cable Tried using different output on splitter in case the out port was bad I haven't tried a different coax cable yet, it should be fine since it's pretty new. Since this is my first time setting up a TV Tuner card, is there anything specific that I need to do with it? Is there any configuration that needs to be done on it? Do I need to have a digial receiver? I was getting pretty frustrated with it so I wanted to turn here to the experts, I'm sure someone can help me figure it out.

    Read the article

  • Broken Creative DTT3500 Digital

    - by djechelon
    Hello, many years ago I bought a Creative DTT3500 Digital surround speakers system. It's been a while since my home theatre started behaving strange. During the past 6 months, I have noticed that the amplifier needed some time before correctly playing digital audio. Until a couple of weeks ago, it needed up to 5 minutes of very noisy "warm up" before playing an "almost" clear audio. Today, I found that even using the analog input (completely disabling digital inputs) the noise persists. Powering off and on the speakers doesn't work. Now, it's reasonable that after almost 10 years, the amplifier got broken. My problem is that I can't simply replace the speakers with another kit from another brand, since 2 speakers in my room are placed in the back wall, with coaxial cables going under the floor but not completely inside a single tube. I mean, I have coaxial extension cables starting from the DTT3500 amplifier, going into the wall, then under the floor in a plastic cable tube, then exiting the tube (still under the floor), connecting to the male coaxial connector of the original cable supplied by Creative, and continuing up to the point close to my bed where the speakers are. I could replace the speakers **only as soon as the new speakers have the same coaxial to bi-polar cables that Creative ships with DTT3500 Another option might be "repairing the amplifier", but I don't know if it's feasible, what should I or a technician look for in the amplifier, and how much would it cost (is it worth to repair or buy a new kit considering the problem above? What do you suggest me to do, basing on the above observation? Thank you.

    Read the article

  • what is the best mid/high-end class audio/music creation audio sound card?

    - by Chris
    Hello, I have a computershop myself, and I repair computers. But one of the things I really don't know (yet) is the performace od audio cards for music creation with midi. I have searched and searched and came up with some good reviews, but after browsing for a couple of hours I could't see the trees trough the forrest :-D (it's a dutch expression) At one moment I thought the M-Audio - Delta 1010LT would be a good PCIe card, later on I read that this card was released years ago. (but that could be false information) Also any personal expierence would be great, but not necessairy. I have searched a few cards, and I hope someone can help me make a choice for a friend of mine. He's buget is between $100 and $350 I know there are audio cards from $ 500 - $1850,- this is just too expensive. The following specs are crucial: ASIO Midi Mic in minimal 5.1, 7.1 recommended it's not for airplay, but just to compose music at home. using Ableton and midi keyboard. 1. M-Audio - Delta 1010LT: 8 x 8 analog I/O 2 mic preamps or line inputs S/PDIF digital I/O (coaxial) with 2-channel PCM SCMS copy protection control digital I/O supports surround-encoded AC-3 and DTS pass-through 1 x 1 MIDI I/O directly drive up to 7.1 surround (bass management software included) software controlled 36-bit internal DSP digital mixing/routing +4dbu/-10dBV operation individually switched in software word clock I/O for sample accurate device synchronization 2. RME HDSP 9632: * Stereo Analog Ein- und Ausgang, symmetrisch*, 24-Bit/192kHz, > 110 dB SNR * Optionale Erweiterungsboards mit je 4 symmetrischen Ein- und Ausgängen * Alle analogen I/Os voll 192 kHz-fähig, also keine Reduzierung der Kanalzahl * 1 x ADAT Digital In/Out, 96 kHz-fähig (S/MUX) * 1 x SPDIF Digital In/Out, 192 kHz-fähig * 1 x Breakout Kabel für koaxialen SPDIF-Betrieb* * Also bis zu 16 Ein-und Ausgänge gleichzeitig nutzbar! * 1 x Stereo Kopfhörerausgang, parallel zum analogen Ausgang, aber eigene Pegelanpassung * 1 x MIDI I/O für 16 Kanäle Hi-Speed MIDI über Breakout Kabel * DIGICheck, RMEs einzigartiges Meter- und Analysetool mit Spectral Analyser, Professionelle Level Meter 2/8/16-Kanalig, Vector Audio Scope und diversen weiteren Analysefunktionen * HDSP Meter Bridge: Frei skalierbare Levelmeter mit Peak- und RMS Berechnung in Hardware * TotalMix: 512-Kanal Mischer mit 40 Bit interner Auflösung 3. EMU 1212M (1212 M) PCIe: * Top kwaliteit convertors 24-bit/192kHz convertors. * Hardware gestuurde effecten. * DSP zero-latency hardware mixen en monitoring. * Analoge en digitale I/O plus MIDI. * EMU Production Tools Software Bundle - Cakewalk SONAR , Steinberg Cubase LE, Ableton Live E-MU Edition **EMU 1212M PCI-e inputs/outputs:** * 2 balanced jack inputs. * 2 balanced jack outputs. * 24-bit/192kHz ADAT I/O. * 24-bit/192kHz Coaxiale S/PDif I/O switchable to AES/EBU. * MIDI I/O. 4. M-Audio Audiophile 192: - Up to 24-bit/192kHz audio - 2 balanced analog inputs (1/4” TRS) - 2 balanced analog outputs (1/4” TRS) - S/PDIF digital I/O (coaxial RCA connectors) with 2-channel PCM - SCMS copy protection control - Digital I/O supports surround-encoded AC-3 and DTS pass-through - Direct hardware input monitoring via separate balanced 1/4” TRS monitor outputs - Software routing of inputs and outputs - Digital I/O can be routed to/from external effects - 16-channel MIDI I/O - ASIO, WDM, GSIF 2 and Core Audio driver support for compatibility with most applications - 64-bit driver support for Windows - PCI 2.2 compatibility - Apple G5 compatible - Incompatible exceptions - Includes Ableton Live Lite music production software, so you can make music right away - Works with other Delta cards Technical Specifcations: - Compatibility - ASIO - WDM - GSIF 2 - Core Audio

    Read the article

  • Creating a Network link between 2 buildings

    - by Adam
    Hey My company needs to create a network link between two buildings. Currently we have a cat5e network in one building and would like to connect some computers(about 15) in our second building to the main network in the first building. The distance between the two buildings is 30 metres. The 30 metres means going through a wall from the first building. Going through the car park and then through a wall into the other building. We can run any cables through speed ramps and so we do not need to dig up the road! Also the second building does not have an Internet connection and so we have to create some sort of cable link so that they can share our Internet connection. Ideas? Should we just run cat5e? Should we run fibre? Should we run coaxial?

    Read the article

  • How to capture footage from an analog TV?

    - by hope
    I have only an old analog TV with just RCA connectors and a coaxial/cable in/out wire. It uses no HDMI interface, etc. I would like to know the cheapest method possible where the current video footage can be transferred and made into a target digital video file format and be copyable/transferrable via USB. Are there any devices that can do this with an analog TV? Basically, how can I get something along these lines done and for cheap?P I do NOT want to stream; I want footage recorded off the TV and stored via a digital encoding of a video file.

    Read the article

  • Sound problems in Windows 7

    - by Plastkort
    hi! I hope I reached the correct forum for this question. I have a media computer with a third party audio card (Soundblaster audigy SE) I use a coaxial digital audio cable connected to a Onkyo TX SR508. if I use normal audio, the sound seems very low, I have to set volume atleast to 62 in my amplifier to hear anything, however if I set digital SPDIF I have no means of controlling the audio volume from the PC (only from the amplifier) and this can be nasty if I toggle between movies that uses Digital AC3/THX and movies wihtouth, if I look at movies capable of AC3 the volume gets VERY loud if amp is set to 62, 32 is more than enough volume when using passthrough. so this bothers me is how can I get the same amount of volume with or without digital output? I tried also other soundcards, internal red light Digital audio cable... if I connect to my television I get ok sound on any sound source via HDMI... help :)

    Read the article

  • Dirt Cheap Bi-Directional Antenna Wirelessly Extends Your LAN

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    If you’re looking for an effective way to link remote LANs without the hassle of laying cable, this DIY bi-directional antenna is a quick (and cheap) method for bringing internet access to outbuildings and other locations. Tinker Danilo Larizza needed to share internet access between apartments that are relatively close together but not hardwired–ruling out simply sharing the access via existing LAN infrastructure. His solution combines a simple scrap wire antenna array mounted inside a plastic food bin (seen here with the cover removed to show the antenna) and some coaxial cable to link the antenna to two routers. Our favorite part about his build is that he constructed the pair to establish if the antenna setup would even work in his location and intended to buy commercial antennas if it did; his Tupperware models worked so well, however, they’re now the permanent solution. Hit up the link below for more information about the project. 2.4 Ghz Directive Biquad Antenna [via Hack A Day] How To Use USB Drives With the Nexus 7 and Other Android Devices Why Does 64-Bit Windows Need a Separate “Program Files (x86)” Folder? Why Your Android Phone Isn’t Getting Operating System Updates and What You Can Do About It

    Read the article

  • What are the frequencies of current in computers' external peripheral cables and internal buses?

    - by Tim
    From Wikipedia, three different cases of current frequency are discussed along with the types of cables that are suitable for them: An Extra Ordinary electrical cables suffice to carry low frequency AC, such as mains power, which reverses direction 100 to 120 times per second (cycling 50 to 60 times per second). However, they cannot be used to carry currents in the radio frequency range or higher, which reverse direction millions to billions of times per second, because the energy tends to radiate off the cable as radio waves, causing power losses. Radio frequency currents also tend to reflect from discontinuities in the cable such as connectors, and travel back down the cable toward the source. These reflections act as bottlenecks, preventing the power from reaching the destination. Transmission lines use specialized construction such as precise conductor dimensions and spacing, and impedance matching, to carry electromagnetic signals with minimal reflections and power losses. Types of transmission line include ladder line, coaxial cable, dielectric slabs, stripline, optical fiber, and waveguides. The higher the frequency, the shorter are the waves in a transmission medium. Transmission lines must be used when the frequency is high enough that the wavelength of the waves begins to approach the length of the cable used. To conduct energy at frequencies above the radio range, such as millimeter waves, infrared, and light, the waves become much smaller than the dimensions of the structures used to guide them, so transmission line techniques become inadequate and the methods of optics are used. I wonder what the frequencies are for the currents in computers' external peripheral cables, such as Ethernet cable, USB cable, and in computers' internal buses? Are the cables also made specially for the frequencies? Thanks!

    Read the article

  • Optical SPDIF audio from motherboard not working with receiver

    - by simon b
    Hi, I hope someone can help; I can't get my SPDIF optical out working through my receiver and all the responses I can see on the web assume you have a sound card, while I settled for the (seemingly high end) sound on my motherboard (Asus P7P55D-E PRO), which appears to limit some of my options. My set-up is a "new out of the box" one and is: *Windows 7 PC (using PowerDVD10 for DVDs/Blurays and Windows media player for music) *Asus P7P55D-E PRO motherboard - has 8-channel audio TRS jacks and SPDIF optical and coaxial out *An old Yamaha receiver, whose only multi-channel input options are optical in and 6 channel RCA in. However, it still can handle DTS and DD *Boston Acoustic Soundware XS 5.1 speakers I've currently got the SPDIF optical out from the motherboard connected to the in on my receiver, have SPDIF enabled in the sound menu and the light is glowing red down the fibre. But I'm getting no sound at all. What I want is to be able to play DVDs/BluRays in 5.1 but also to be able to play music in multi-channel mode (even though I know this will be "fake" multichannel; it's more about where I sit in the room and my requirement to use the sub because the Boston is a satellite/sub set-up) My questions are: *Will optical work at all for multi-channel? THe latest posts I can see suggest it does but some people seem to say optical only outputs stereo. Whom to believe? *Even if it does work, I've read that I have to disable AC-3 decoding, or make various other changes, which don't seem to be possible without the menu options that a sound-card brings. Is the motherboard-only option just too inflexible? *Although my SPDIF device is enabled in the sound menu, it insists under "Jack information" that it is a "rear panel RCA jack", when of course it is not (both TOSLINK and rCA jacks do exist). Has the PC just forgotten that it has an optical? *I think I could relatively easily connect the 8-channel 3.5mm TRS jacks to my receiver 6-ch input jacks by way of TRS/RCA cables, but would that not stop me from being able to play music from media-player in multi-channel mode, as I'm not sure the motherboard can cope *Or do I need to bite the bullet and buy a sound-card? And if so, how can I be sure the one I get doesn't have the same problem? Any thoughts gratefully received, Cheers, simon

    Read the article

1