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  • Replacing stock Core 2 Duo heatsink fan (just the fan really) with a Dell CPU fan

    - by user647345
    My old heatsink fan broke and I'm trying to reconnect its plugs to a new fan. My Dell CPU fan has some custom Dell plug. I snipped the old fan's wire in half and kept the plug on the end of it. I want to connect it to the Dell fan wire to the plug. The motherboard is a P5Q-e, the stock Core 2 Duo fan was .20A and the dell is .70A. Is that going to matter? The wire from the fan has four wires, the wire with the plug has four wires. They share three, of the four colors: red, black, and blue. Dell's fourth wire is white, while the plug's fourth wire is yellow. Is it safe to assume that I just connect the yellow and the white plug together and match the rest up? I don't want to take any risk of damaging anything. It runs fine passively without a fan, but I have speedstep on, so I would like to use this fan and just fasten it to the heatsink with some twist ties and paperclips and call it a day.

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  • Installing Heatsink (XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283) onto Motherboard (ASRock X79 Extreme9 LGA 2011 Intel X79)

    - by Mike Hagstrom
    I recently have purchased: XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283, in the instructions it states two different type's for the installation of the Intel LGA 2011. It lists Type 1 and Type 2. Now I have the Intel Core i7-3930K (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116492) and I have the ASRock X79 Extreme9 LGA 2011 Intel X79 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157285) What Type do I use for the installation of this heatsink?

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  • Custom Silent HTPC Uses Entire Case as a Heatsink

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    This silent media center PC dissipates heat in a rather clever way; the entire back of the case is one giant heatsink. Courtesy of computer enthusiast and tinker DeFex, the build isn’t just silent but quite eye catching too. He used a combination of one massive heatsink, custom brackets, acrylic, and bicycle spokes to create a sleek case that looks as much like a computer-inspired work of art as it does a media center computer. Hit up the link below to check out the build gallery and see how he mated the CPU to the heatsink-body with a custom milled aluminum bridge. Heatsink HTPC [via Hack A Day] Secure Yourself by Using Two-Step Verification on These 16 Web Services How to Fix a Stuck Pixel on an LCD Monitor How to Factory Reset Your Android Phone or Tablet When It Won’t Boot

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  • Can I use LGA775 heatsink on LGA1156 CPU?

    - by Ghostrider
    Will cooler that is designed to LGA775 CPUs install on LGA1156 CPU or are they mechanically incompatible? I'm building my first 1U server and surprise-surprise - Intel stock cooler doesn't fit (unless I'm willing to keep the case open). Places that I prefer to buy stuff from are currently out of stock on 1U 1156 heatsinks so I'm wondering if LGA775 would do the trick.

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  • Prototype Fanless Heatsink Is Silent and Dust-Immune

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    What does this chip cooler do that your’s doesn’t? Run 30 times more efficiently, nearly silently, and repel any dust that settles on it, for starters. Check out the video to see it in action. Although the video is a bit dry the heatsink in action is pretty impressive–nearly silent? repels dust? radically more efficient? Our only complaint is we can’t slap one on a test machine right this minute. [via Extreme Tech] How to Make Your Laptop Choose a Wired Connection Instead of Wireless HTG Explains: What Is Two-Factor Authentication and Should I Be Using It? HTG Explains: What Is Windows RT and What Does It Mean To Me?

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  • Does Lapping a CPU / Heatsink actually drop the temp?

    - by Pure.Krome
    Hi folks, i've been watching some YouTube vids about Lapping a CPU. I've never heard of this modding technique before and, though extreame, I was wondering if it acutally works? Assuming you lap your cpu and/or heatsink correctly, will the temps drop? When I say drop, at least a 1 degree drop is success (for the debate of this topic). To keep this topic clean, please refrain from anyone commenting on the overkill of labour, just for a 1 degree (worst case) drop, etc. This is a discussion about the theory and concept, not personal opionion of wether to lap or not.

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  • How can I know I'm buying a heatsink that will work with my CPU?

    - by Mike Peshka
    Recently I've been using my CPU a lot more for gaming, and as of two days ago, my computer had just been shutting off suddenly with no warning. I'm inclined to believe I need a new heatsink and cooling fan system. (Correct me if I am wrong.) Now I went around to BestBuy and Staples to purchase a new one, but both places instructed me to look online. Now I am posed with a problem. I don't know how to shop for one online because I want to make sure it will work with my unit. My CPU is a Pentium® Dual-Core CPU E2210 @ 2. 20GHz

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  • core temperature vs CPU temperature

    - by Karl Nicoll
    I have recently installed a new heat sink & fan combination on my Core 2 Quad since my CPU was hitting about 70C under load. This has managed reduce temperatures while running Prime95 to about 54C, which I'm taking as a win (this is ~30 minutes after fitting). I'm a little confused though. The temperature readings given above are for CORE temperatures, but HWMonitor is showing a 5th "CPU" temperature (4 temperatures being the individual core temps) which is showing 21C idle, when idle temperatures for the cores vary between 37C and 42C. I guess there are two questions here: Are my CPU/Core temperatures decent, and is it safe to overclock when these are stock clock temperatures? I gather that the maximum safe operating temperature for a C2Q is ~70C, so which temperature should I measure against, the core temperatures (which are higher), or the CPU temperature reading?

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  • Laptops with easy heat sink service?

    - by Niten
    Can you recommend a current laptop model with easy heat sink access – or better yet, a removable air intake filter – making it easy to periodically clean out the dust and lint that always packs up in these things? Every laptop I've owned has eventually overheated on account of a clogged heat sink. (I suppose it doesn't help that I have a cat who loves to hang out where I'm working, or that my laptop is almost always running.) One of the things I really love about my current system, a Dell Inspiron 1420n, is how easy it is to service its cooling system: whenever I notice the fan starting to work harder and the CPU temperature climbing higher than it should be, I merely have to unscrew a single panel from the bottom of the machine, clean out the heat sink, and then I'm good for another few months. Which current models of the "business laptop" variety offer similar easy cooling system service? I'm looking for something roughly along the lines of: 14- or 15-inch display Nehalem-based CPU Solid construction – magnesium chassis or better (like the Inspiron) TPM (for BitLocker) ideal, but not mandatory Docking adapter ideal, but not mandatory Good battery life For example, the ThinkPad T410 would have been my top choice, but it seems like it would be a serious chore to service its heat sink. For the current MacBook Pros it looks downright impossible. No matter how nice the laptop is in other respects, it'll be of no use to me when it's overheating. So, any suggestions? Thanks in advance... (I'm constantly surprised that customers and manufacturers don't pay more attention to this feature, at least in the business laptop subcategory. In the last couple months I've fixed two friends' laptops which were also overheating due to clogged cooling systems; clearly I'm not the only one affected by this.)

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  • Are Socket AM2/AM2+ Heatsinks Compatible with Socket AM3 processor?

    - by wag2639
    I bought an Asus Lion Square compatible with a AMD Athlon II X3 435 Socket AM3 processor? I know strictly speaking, the Lion Square specifies AM2 but I'm a little confused since AM2 and AM3 are suppose to be socket compatible (I'm a little confused here as well but I assume it means an AM3 board will support AM2/AM2+ CPUs). However, will there be a problem with chip height and spacing? Or do people have experience asking ASUS for a standoff adapter?

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  • Are Socket AM2/AM2+ Heatsinks Compatible with Socket AM3 Heatsinks?

    - by wag2639
    I bought an Asus Lion Square compatible with a AMD Athlon II X3 435 Socket AM3 processor? I know strictly speaking, the Lion Square specifies AM2 but I'm a little confused since AM2 and AM3 are suppose to be socket compatible (I'm a little confused here as well but I assume it means an AM3 board will support AM2/AM2+ CPUs). However, will there be a problem with chip height and spacing? Or do people have experience asking ASUS for a standoff adapter?

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  • Can I replace my notebook's fan without replacing the heat sink?

    - by kuzzooroo
    My laptop (Acer Travelmate 8204) has started making a grinding noise, which seems to be coming from the fan (not the hard drive). Some articles online mention replacing the fan, but others imply that one should replace both the fan and the heat sink. Does it make sense to replace the fan only? (addendum: does this procedure really take 3 hours for a noob, as this video implies? UPDATE: the fan certainly seems to be on the "top" layer when I open my laptop but some parts of it extend under other layers) Some additional info in response to comments: I have run MS scandisk on the hard drive a few times since the grinding started. It usually reports finding something or other but the computer's behavior doesn't change I'm pretty sure it's the fan based on where the noise is coming from. I employed the cardboard tube trick from the PC World article.

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  • CPU Temperature sensor wrong?

    - by Matias Nino
    Everest Ultimate is suddenly telling me that the CPU temperature (and core temps) for my E6850 Core 2 Duo is 72 degrees Celsius. When I stress-test the machine, the temp goes up to 91 degrees and the CPU actually throttles. System remains stable though. For over a year now, my CPU has run very cool (40's) with a large commercial copper heatsink/fan that I bought separately. To top it off, I removed the cover of the box and felt the cpu heatsink and it wasn't even warm. Is there such a thing as a CPU temp sensor showing the wrong readings? Any tips would help. UPDATE #1 Temp is also just as high in BIOS. So that leads me to believe it's a CPU seating issue (even though I used thermal paste to seat it two years ago when I built the machine) UPDATE #2 Well. I removed the heatsink and cleaned off the original thermal paste (which was somewhat crusty). I polished the surface, re-applied some new paste, and reseated the heat sink. After powering it up, there was no noticeable change in the temp - ideling at 74. Ran the stress test and it went up to 94 degrees before being 100% throttled. I let it sit at 94 degrees for 20 minutes straight and the computer didn't even flinch. I then immediately shut it off and opened the case and felt around. The heatsink was completely cold to the touch. Even the copper rods were cold. The area near contact with the CPU was slightly warm but not hot to touch. Then I ran REALTEMP, which is supposedly more accurate and it told me the CPU was at 104 degrees. (LOL) At this point, I'm thinking no doubt the cpu's sensor is wrong. Sidenote: the BIOS has the latest version so no option to flash there. Reverting hasn't been known to help from what I've read. What pisses me off is the false temps force the CPU to artificially throttle from 3GHz down to 2GHz and my CPU fan is cranking at full force all the time. Should I call intel and tell them to send me another E6850? SOLUTION UPDATE I switched the processor out with another one and got the same obscene temperatures with the new processor followed by a heatsink that was cool to touch. My suspicion in the heatsink was suddenly renewed. I swapped it out with the stock heatsink/fan and lo and behold the temperatures returned to the normal 35C-50C. Even though the thermal paste was visibly flattened out every time I removed it, it looks like the heatsink was still not pressing hard enough on the CPU to effectively conduct the heat. The heatsink is a Masscool 8Wa741, which screws into a standard position on a mount on the back of the MOBO. Only thing I can surmise after 2 years of use was that, over time, the heatsink pressure on the CPU gave way until the heat began to be ineffectively conducted. Lessons learned: Intel CPU's can run SUPER HOT (upwards of 95C) and still be stable. Heatsink's need to be VERY firmly pressed against the CPU to conduct heat.

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  • Origin of common list-processing function names

    - by Heatsink
    Some higher-order functions for operating on lists or arrays have been repeatedly adopted or reinvented. The functions map, fold[l|r], and filter are found together in several programming languages, such as Scheme, ML, and Python, that don't seem to have a common ancestor. I'm going with these three names to keep the question focused. To show that the names are not universal, here is a sampling of names for equivalent functionality in other languages. C++ has transform instead of map and remove_if instead of filter (reversing the meaning of the predicate). Lisp has mapcar instead of map, remove-if-not instead of filter, and reduce instead of fold (Some modern Lisp variants have map but this appears to be a derived form.) C# uses Select instead of map and Where instead of filter. C#'s names came from SQL via LINQ, and despite the name changes, their functionality was influenced by Haskell, which was itself influenced by ML. The names map, fold, and filter are widespread, but not universal. This suggests that they were borrowed from an influential source into other contemporary languages. Where did these function names come from?

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  • CPU overheating after cleaning it

    - by Roberts
    I wanted to clean my computer CPU heatsink and fan itself, because the temperature is not what I wanted. About (50C ~ 70C). I have Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 @1.8 GHz (LGA775). The heatsink wasn't so scary filled with dust but I wanted to clean it anyway. I didn't know how to get heatsink with fan from the socket. So after 25 minutes I've figured it out. But I didn't know how to get it back on so I spent a lot time getting out the motherboard from the case. The fan and heatsink... The case and all components are clear of dust. (I'm tired now). Then I put all back just the way it was, well did few things on cable management. But the problem was that I didn't know how to connect front audio connectors. I had Windows XP hibernated. So I started the PC and everything was normal, except CMOS memory was clear. I configured the BIOS just the way it was and while I was doing that I saw about 58C CPU temperature and fan at 1789 RPM. Restarted the computer with new settings applied. But Windows halted with Blue Screen (I forgot what error it was but something with KERNEL). Restarted the PC and deleted hibernation session and everything was back normal. But couldn't record any sound from front panel microphone. The problem was that I messed ground wire with mic. Again after fixing it I turned computer on. No problems. The fan currently is noisy and temperature was 78C. The temperature before was 55C - 60C at idle. Now it's about 60C. If I do something then temperature raises to 79C. While speaking in skype the temperature was 82C. Could this problem occur because of the thermal grease (it's old and never replaced)? Edit The problem wasn't in thermal paste (because I didn't touch it). The problem was that I installed heatsink wrong. Now instead of regular 60C CPU temperature the CPU is at 48C (cool).

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  • My desktop has started overheating -- how hot is hot?

    - by Jerry
    I have a two year old desktop, some random quad core HP desktop. It used to run very quietly, but in the past month, the fans start up anytime anything "serious" is being done -- compiles, playing video, etc. Right now, speedfan and speccy report the cores are between 50C and 70C. Speedfan reports this as hot. (Nice flame icon.) Well, the system does sit on my carpet, so two weeks ago, I took off the lid, and cough *cough* it was pretty filled with dust. I got out an air can, turned on a vacuum and carefully got out all the dust that I saw on the CPU fan the case fans any fan I saw (graphics board) and blew out all the dust I could from all the circuit boards. And then I closed the case back up. It has definitely run cooler since then, but it still runs hot, and I hear high speed fan noise I never heard before. How hot is too hot? At what temps do consumer grade CPUs die? What should I be looking to do? Replace CPU fan? (It seems to work) Replace power supply fan? Assuming the dust problem is gone, where should I be looking to determine why the machine is heating up? Epilogue: After following the various pieces of advice given here, the system did run cooler, but it was still noticeably running louder (hotter) than just a few months prior. I ended up purchasing a new cpu heatsink and fan and during installation found the cooling grease from the original heatsink was just a dried, cracked layer, probably more of an insulator than heat transfer agent. With the new fan AND the new heatsink compound, the system ran much much cooler and the fan rarely turns on.

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  • Machine Check Exception

    - by Karl Entwistle
    When trying to install ubuntu-12.04-desktop-amd64.iso from USB I get one of the following errors http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_Check_Exception states the error can occur due to -poorly fitted heatsink/computer fans (the same problem can happen with excessive dust in the CPU fan) -an overloaded internal or external power supply (fixable by upgrading) So I tried the following -Using rubbing alcohol to remove all the thermal paste from the CPU and heatsink, I then reseated the CPU after checking all the pins on the MOBO, everything seems fine. -Boot without the GPU to see if was the PSU that is being over stressed. -Removing all RAM apart from one stick and running a Memtest86 which it passed -Using Ubuntu 10.04.4 Desktop 64 bit (Different USB slots and USB sticks) -Using Ubuntu 12.04 Desktop 64 bit (Different USB slots and USB sticks) -Reset the BIOS using the Clear CMOS jumper -Removing all HD power cables and SATA cables -Updating the BIOS from F2 to F6 My PC is using the following parts. -Gigabyte GA-Z77-DS3H (F6 BIOS) -Intel Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz Socket 1155 -G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V -Be Quiet Shadow Rock Pro -Be Quiet Pure Power 730W Modular PSU -Sapphire HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card Any ideas?

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  • Building new computer, turns on, but no post

    - by addybojangles
    Pardon my ignorance here, finally decided to put together a computer and egads. I purchased a new motherboard, power supply, processor, video card and memory. ASUS M4A79XTD EVO AM3 AMD 790X ATX AMD Motherboard OCZ Fatal1ty OCZ550FTY 550W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor XFX HD-577A-ZNFC Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ (originally had links for you guys, but I lack the rep, sorry!!) And I've got it all in the tower. I put in power supply, installed processor on motherboard, installed heatsink, put in ram, and I am using an older IDE hard disk. When I start the computer, the monitor tells me "check signal cable." As far as I can tell, the heatsink on the processor is spinning, the power supply is on (obviously), and the green LED on the motherboard is on. I originally only had the bigger output plugged in to the motherboard (what I saw in a YouTube vid as well as the mobo instructions), but after doing some research, it said plug in the other ATX power supply. Which I did. And trying to power the computer results in nothing. No beeps on startup, no post, anyone have any ideas? Your ideas and help is greatly appreciated.

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  • CPU temperatures high on new build after gaming

    - by Reznor
    My friend had a problem with his computer a while back. His games were crashing, even within the menus. He was stumped as to what the problem was, so I posted on here requesting help. He found out the day later, when his computer would start up but wouldn't display anything on the screen. His video card must have came screwed up. So, he got a replacement. Now, there's a new problem. His temperatures, which were acceptable before, are now insanely high. His GPU temperature runs 70-80c, which is understandable considering he's running his games maxed out, but the real problem here is his processor and motherboard temperatures. All four of his cores are running at 88-90c after coming out of a game. His motherboard temperature was also 70c at one point. In terms of cooling, his case should definitely be adequate. He has an Antec Twelve Hundred. He's using stock fans. The cable management in his case is very good; better than average. He's using the stock heatsink with the processor too, but note, it was fine before the replacement, so it isn't like there's some inherent problem. He has checked the case too. Everything's fine! No cables in the way. The heatsink is seated properly. He turned his case fans up to high, as well, but the temperatures are persisting. Could the processor be overheating due to running games maxed out? Any ideas?

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  • Gigabyte Onboard graphics card heating up and then crashing

    - by this is text comes from a db
    5 minutes after I turn on my PC the onboard graphics card is usually over 80° celsius and then crashes (random colors on screen, only way to get out is to just plug out the pc). I haven't installed any new drivers or added/changed hardware recently Everything went fine until yesterday What should I do next? Do I have to buy a new mainboard right now? There is no fan on the onboard graphics card, only a heatsink.

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  • Windows 7 is shutting down unexpectedly, according to the logs.

    - by dlamblin
    Here's a message from my eventvwr EventLog (Windows Logs System): The previous system shutdown at 11:51:15 AM on ?7/?29/?2009 was unexpected. This is funny because I was wondering why the system shut down while I was playing Civilizations IV full screen. Now I know. It was unexpected. Has anyone encountered and resolved this? A little background: I am running Windows 7 RC inside VMWare Fusion 2 (just updated a few months back) on a MacBook (Bitterly not Pro) aluminum-body. Windows 7 occasionally will shut down. This isn't a quick turn-off, it's a shutdown where all the programs are exited, the system waits until they quit (and Civ4 doesn't prompt me to save), it even installed Windows Updates before restarting. And yes it is restarting right after the shutdown. Because I run a game in full screen mode I do not notice any dialog with a countdown timer or anything like that that might be a warning. As I have iStat on my dashboard widgets I can see about 8 temperature monitors. I have seen the CPU get up to 74C before, but during the shutdown, though it seemed hot to the touch (always is), it read 61C for the CPU, 60C for heatsink A, 50C for heatsink B and in the 30s-40s for the enclosure and harddrives. As I type this now, the temps are actually higher, so I don't think the temperature caused it. I have at least six such events dating first from 5/17 which was a week after installing Windows 7. I did find one information level warning from USER32 in the system log that says: The process C:\Windows\system32\svchost.exe (DLAMBLIN-WIN7) has initiated the restart of computer DLAMBLIN-WIN7 on behalf of user NT AUTHORITY\SYSTEM for the following reason: Operating System: Recovery (Planned) Reason Code: 0x80020002 Shutdown Type: restart Comment: And another 15 minutes before that from Windows Update: Restart Required: To complete the installation of the following updates, the computer will be restarted within 15 minutes: - Cumulative Security Update for Internet Explorer 8 for Windows 7 Release Candidate for x64-based Systems (KB972260) Which I think kind of explains it. Though I don't know why restarting after an update would create an error event of "shutdown was unexpected", isn't that pretty odd? Now, how do I set it to never restart after an update unless I click something. Application of solution: As fretje reminded me, there's a couple of configurable settings for this, in windows 7 they're much in the same place as in Windows 2000 SP3 and XP SP1. Running gpedit.msc pops up a window that looks like: Windows 7 has changed the order and added a couple of newer options I've italicized: Do not display 'Install Updates and Shut Down' in Shut Down Windows dialog box Do not adjust default option to 'Install Updates and Shut Down' in Shut Down Windows dialog box Enabling Windows Power Management to automatically wake up the system to install scheduled updates Configure Automatic Updates Specify intranet Microsoft update service location Automatic Updates detection frequency Allow non-administrators to receive update notifications Turn on Software Notifications Allow Automatic Updates immediate installation Turn on recommended updates via Automatic Updates No auto-restart with logged-on users for scheduled Automatic Updates Re-prompt for restart with scheduled installations. Delay Restart for scheduled installations Reschedule Automatic Updates schedule

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  • Passive cooling a Pentium III

    - by gravyface
    Looking at running pfSense on an old P3 866Mhz. It's noisy, I'd like to passively-cool it, downclocking is ok as this is more than enough horsepower for my needs at home. Obviously I'm cheaping out here: wonder if I bigger heatsink will do and how much case flow I need (it's in a standard mid-tower ATX case).

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