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  • Iverter, inverter cable, or a display cable?

    - by krebshack
    I was recently hired at a small repair shop. I work indoors while my boss does on site calls for small businesses. I have to troubleshoot and fix laptop screens a few times a week and this is why I'm posting this question. I'm having trouble figuring out how to stream line the troubleshooting process. For example, how do I determine whether the inverter is broken while also determining that the inverter cable is not. How can I quickly decide that the inverter cable is broken while knowing that the inverter is most likely not broke. Or how do I know that it's just the display cable? It seems like this is a good way to approach things: "It could be the inverter, backlight, or the LCD panel itself. Backlight failure is usually hinted at by a pink hue to everything. Inverter failure usually results in the dimming of images on the screen to the point where the backlight is not even on (the inverter provides power to the backlight)" Source. While remembering that things "like flickering, screen freeze in dark image and [a] corner starts to get brighter" point to a "failure in the LCD panel itself, though it could just as easily be a loose data cable connected to the back of the LCD." Source. In short, I'm soliciting advice that anyone might have on how to quickly make the best decision about what's causing problems with laptops display. Thank you.

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  • Can I use a cheap inverter for my laptop?

    - by Georg
    I'm going to travel in a car this summer. It would be very nice if I could charge my laptop using the cigarette lighter. Because my computer is from Apple, there's no way to directly connect the two, therefore I need an inverter that provides 120V alternating current. There are many different models, ranging from very cheap to really expensive. The wave forms are: (from most expensive to cheapest) sine modified sine trapezoid square Can I use just any inverter or does it have to be a sine inverter? If so, what happens to my computer in case I use the wrong one. The laptop is a MacBook witch needs 60W.

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  • Asus V1S/V1V inverter cable

    - by Bill
    I have an Asus V1V, which is the same as the Asus V1S except for the video card. I have a problem where the screen will randomly lose brightness or flicker between being lit and not lit. The picture below is of the left hinge, with the cover removed. Pressing one of these cables affects this behaviour, and pressing it in place will resolve the issue for a few hours. To me this means the inverter cable is damaged. As the picture shows, there are two cables, an LCD cable and what I assume is an inverter cable. I purchased an LCD cable for my model of laptop, but have been unable to find an inverter cable. It seems not to exist. I would like some input on if an inverter cable actually exists, if it is likely the problem, or solutions in general to resolve this problem permanently.

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  • Possible to bypass laptop inverter power source - HP dv5000 inverter 7 input pins?

    - by Glen Tankersley
    I've got an HP dv5000 laptop with a backlight that won't light up, (but is known to be good). I've also got an inverter board which is good, but isn't getting power from the mobo. So, my question is, would it be possible to bypass the original power source, and hack together some type of externally powered input just for the backlight? If so, does anybody know the input voltage and meaning for the 7 input pins for the inverter board, or how to find out?

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  • Pure sine wave inverter

    - by Nick
    Not exactly programming (sorry) but I think it's pretty close and can be of interest to other programmers. I'm trying to setup a battery power station so that I can work from anywhere. I go surfing a lot and my idea is to be able to work from wherever I can park my car (given there's coverage). So, I'm getting a deep cycle battery, a 240V charger (I'm in Australia), and an inverter. At the back of my laptop it says 19V and 4.62A. From the people I've spoken to that means it consumes about 90W at most. So my inverter needs to be able to output about 100W. Most of them seem to be 200W and up so this shouldn't be a problem. I want to be able run my laptop for 10 hours (plus the 2 hours I get from the laptop battery) straight. According to the people I've spoken to and from what I gather online I need a battery that has the amp hours for my "amp draw". I have no idea how to calculate this but I've been guesstimating. Most deep cycle batteries seem to be classified using amp hours (Ah)... 35Ah, 50Ah, 75Ah, 100Ah, and so on. However the amp hours on those batteries is for a 240V and I seem to be using 19V. According to an expert I spoke to you'd need a 100Ah battery to power a 5A appliance at 240V for 10 hours (you only get about 50% useful power). That to me is 5A * 240V = 100Ah battery. So, naive as I might be I take 240V and divide that by my 19V and reach the conclusion that I can get away with a battery that's about 12 times smaller than that 100Ah. The expert told me I needed a 50Ah battery so that's probably what I'll be getting, but it would be interesting to know what I theoretically would need to power my laptop for 10 hours. As for charging the battery the expert I spoke to said I needed a 3-5A charger to be able to charge that 50Ah battery from flat to full in about 10 hours (I will just leave it plugged in over night). Now to my question. The expert said it's not a matter of "if" more like a guaranteed "when" my computer will stuff up if I don't use a "pure sine wave inverter". From what I gather the power that comes out of that battery is not as clean as the power we get in the socket at home. Apparently it's "square" and the one in the socket is nice and smooth. I've already got an inverter, but it's not "pure". Do I really need to buy the $200-300 pure sine wave inverter or can I get away with something else? Perhaps the laptop adapter that sits in the middle of my laptop power cable already fixes that wave to be nice and smooth? Thanks!

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  • Asus V1S screen dimming randomly

    - by Bill
    I have an Asus V1V, which is the same as the Asus V1S except for the video card. I have a problem where the screen will randomly lose brightness or flicker between being lit and not lit. The picture below is of the left hinge, with the cover removed. Pressing one of these cables affects this behaviour, and pressing it in place will resolve the issue for a few hours. My guess means the inverter cable is damaged, based on previous experience. As the picture shows, there are two cables, an LCD cable and what I assume is an inverter cable. I purchased an LCD cable for my model of laptop, but have been unable to find an inverter cable. It seems not to exist. I would like some input on if an inverter cable actually exists, if it is likely the problem, or solutions in general to resolve this problem permanently.

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  • T60 Screen/LCD gets black after some minutes with a highpitched sound rising and fading

    - by edelwater
    Just now my T60 screen got "black" (so no display). On my second monitor: no problems so the VGA output works. Symptom: Screen blanks / no display, but it works on the second monitor Steps to reproduce: - boot - wait (it does not matter what you do you do not have to login or anything) - (now the monitor of the laptop slowly begins to make a ssssssssHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHWOEOEssssssss noise of about 10 seconds) - right after the sounds ends, the monitor gets black. Sometimes it seems to be the same each time. Software: Installed no new software before/after, running ZoneAlarm and antivirus. Other: It does not feel hot in any place, there don't seem to be running processes with strange behaviour. Warranty: Out of warranty What was I doing: Typing text on a website and doing some PHP coding in a text editor. What can I do here other than buy a new laptop? Does it sound familiar to known cases? Update 1: Exactly the same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-Screen-Blackout/m-p/288772 and the second poster (garyj), http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/Black-Screen-on-T60/m-p/235053#M48627 And here: "I have that same problem. I replaced the CCRL on mine and it works fine when the screen is not screwed in. Once the frame of the LCD screen (metal portion) touches the metal on the laptop which holds the screen the screen goes black. If the metal is touching the screen when you boot up it boots up with it being very dimmly lit. " from http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-screen-problems/m-p/205047#M44995 (it seems replacing the LCD display is no use, he tried it three times). Same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-black-screen/m-p/80604#M25914 Hmmm... not handy 3 or 4 months ago I ordered and installed a new fan. Now the LCD. Which does not seem the core issue but some electric issue so it seems replacing the LCD is not the thing to do here. If it is not the LCD that needs to be replaced (see other threads), which parts can I order to fix this? Is there any information which could lead me to identify the issue? I have read replacing the "inverter" AND the "backlightning" would that make sense? Update 2: I replaced the inverter with another inverter, but IO have the same problem. I DID notice that the inverter is the component that makes the sssssssssssssHHHHHHHHHH sound AND it becomes very hot in a few seconds. (So both the old and the test one) The problem is hmmm wat is then the thing that makes the inverter hot by (assumption) after which it shuts itself down. Is it either the input or the output? The output seems to me not, because the screen seems to function so it must be the electricity coming in. But what causes it to become so hot would it be the VGA card outputting some unusual high voltage seems unlikely? I am looking for the component to order / replace update 3: Great news. Ewendish gave me the hint to look in the BIOS. While I was in the BIOS I noticed that the screen did not switch off and there was not a high pitched sound. So I lowered some settings in the BIOS. I then noticed that with brightness turned to 0 (via FN End), it does not make a high pitched sound and does not turn off, with brightness turned up just three "stripes" it starts making the sound. So I could from now on work under lowest brightness modus or... see where the problem lies. So as stated below with either power management or display drivers / ATI Catalyst settings / Windows display settings. I'm trying to see where it lies, but I will google some first. Update 4: I wiped clean the Windows XP installation and installed Windows 7 on it. Unfortunately the problem remains: as soon as the brightness goes up the screen starts hissing. This means... back to original thought: it probably IS a hardware problem. Although ... again... if it is NOT the inverter, what is it? Could it be the backlightning component? I could try to switch that with a another T60... but this is quite tricky.

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  • Will this car adapter power this Laptop?

    - by CT
    I'm looking to buy a number of car power adapters to be used with some Dell laptops. http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=1382005 ^ This is the item I am currently looking at. Will it be able to power a Dell Lattitude E6500? Looking at the power supply of the laptop, it states that it is a 90W-AC Adapter. The car adapter states that it is a 60W DC - AC Power Inverter. Will this work? Do I need an DC-AC Power Inverter that is 90W or higher? I am nothing close to an electrician, please help me out. Thank you.

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  • Lenovo G530 laptop screen flicker

    - by Kevin
    I have a Lenovo G530 laptop that has an issue with screen flicker that is getting worse. The computer screen will start going thru a crazy screen flicker then will stop and start again. I have already checked cable connection to lcd on motherboard and reseated connection as someone suggested in another posting I found online that resolved issue. I am starting to think it might be a bad inverter or screen because I have hooked up laptop to external monitor and it is running fine with no flickering happening when the flickering is occurring on laptop. I am attaching a link to a small video I shot of the issue as it is occurring on laptop screen. Does anyone have any further suggestions? Bad inverter or screen? Screen flicker vid

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  • LCD repair parts for Gateway FPD2275W

    - by eidylon
    Hi all, I am wondering if anyone can point me to someplace where I can buy an inverter and/or backlight bulb for a Gateway FPD2275w LCD monitor. I've been googling, and looking on eBay, but can't seem to find them. I need to repair a monitor... I've done so before with a laptop LCD, so yes, I do know what I'm in for. I just need to find where to buy the parts. Thanks in advance!

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  • Electronic circuit simulator four-way flood-filling issues

    - by AJ Weeks
    I've made an electronic circuit board simulator which has simply 3 types of tiles: wires, power sources, and inverters. Wires connect to anything they touch, other than the sides of inverters; inverters have one input side and one output side; and finally power tiles connect in a similar manner as wires. In the case of an infinite loop, caused by the output of the inverter feeding into its input, I want inverters to oscillate (quickly turn on/off). I've attempted to implement a FloodFill algorithm to spread the power throughout the grid, but seem to have gotten something wrong, as only the tiles above the power source get powered (as seen below) I've attempted to debug the program, but have had no luck thus far. My code concerning the updating of power can be seen here.

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  • What type of Multimeter is safe to use on computers?

    - by Ssvarc
    In "Upgrading and Repairing PC's - 18th edition" by Scott Mueller on pg. 1278 he discusses multimeters. "You should only use a DMM (digital multimeter) instead of the older needle-type multimeters because the older meters work by injecting 9V into the circuit when measuring resistance, which damages most computer circuits. A DMM uses a much smaller voltage (usually 1.5V) when making resistance measurements, which is safe for electronic equipment." Most DMM's that I've looked at have 9V batteries. Are they internally stepping down the voltage used when making these measurements? Wouldn't the concern of injecting 9V be true when measuring continuity as well? A little off topic, there is a fascinating way to test for laptop screen inverter failure, (http://www.fonerbooks.com/test.htm), is anyone aware of a safe DMM that is capable of this as well?

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  • Can a usb cable carry 12v?

    - by zm15
    Here's what i'm wanting to do. I have a Acer Iconia A500 tablet. I want to plug it in, in the car, but it has a barrel plug and I don't want to buy an inverter. The car adapters are expensive for what they do. I already have a 2.1 amp usb car charger meant for the iPad: http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-K33497US-PowerBolt-Charger-Compatible/dp/tech-data/B003PU01M4/ref=de_a_smtd And i want to use this usb cable from the 2.1 amp port to plug into the A500: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00304DZ7I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1HPBDJJIXKXS7 Here are the specs on the original wall charger if that helps: http://www.phihong.com/assets/pdf/PSA18R.pdf The usb cable says it's 5v, but the original charger says it outputs 12v. But since it's just a cable... wasn't sure if that really made a whole lot of difference since it's only 1.5 amps from the wall charger. Is it possible to use that usb cable through the powerbolt car charger, to charge the A500?

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  • Laptop LCD Screen Flickering

    - by BSchlinker
    I recognize this is most likely not a software error and likely lies in one of the hardware components. However, about 3 months ago I replaced the LCD screen on this laptop. The company which I bought it through provided a 12 month warranty. Before I contact them, I would like to verify that the problem is most likely the LCD screen and not the inverter. Any comments? I recognize its impossible to diagnose hardware remotely, but it would be nice to know if there is a high probability it could be a component other then the LCD screen.

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  • How do I replace the screen of a Dell Ispiron 1545?

    - by Ajus10
    I got a new screen for a Dell Inspiron 1545. The old screen says Dell Inspiron 1545 LP156WH1 (TL)(C1?) HD and the new one says Dell Inspiron 1545 LP156WH1 (TL)(C1?) LCD Does that make a difference? All I can get to work on the new screen is the backlight. The old screen had a crack. Now when I plug the old one in, it will not turn on at all. Could I have blown the inverter or messed up the cable?

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  • How do I replace the screen of a Dell Inspiron 1545?

    - by Ajus10
    I got a new screen for a Dell Inspiron 1545. The old screen says Dell Inspiron 1545 LP156WH1 (TL)(C1?) HD and the new one says Dell Inspiron 1545 LP156WH1 (TL)(C1?) LCD Does that make a difference? All I can get to work on the new screen is the backlight. The old screen had a crack. Now when I plug the old one in, it will not turn on at all. Could I have blown the inverter or messed up the cable?

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  • Screen is black at login screen if display driver is enabled

    - by Amir Rachum
    I have a Lenovo x200 and recently its screen didn't work, so I took it to a repair lab. The guy told me they replaced the screen inverter. I powered up the laptop and the ThinkPad logo was shown, so I was happy. When I got home the computer would boot up, then instead of the logon screen, I got a black screen. Went to safe mode, disabled the display adapters, reset the computer, and I got a clean boot. Then I tried to reinstall the drivers, and it just led to the same condition. My video card is (from device manager): Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family. Now my laptop works as I'm working with display drivers disabled, but without display drivers I can't watch movies, etc. Any solution to this problem? Edit: I plugged in an external monitor and it works on it with display drivers enabled. However, it does not find the laptop monitor.

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  • What are the essential considerations for setting up systems in a location with unreliable power?

    - by dunxd
    I deal with a lot of remote offices located in parts of the world where the local grid power supply is unreliable. Power can go off anytime with no warning, with outages ranging from minutes to days Power fluctuation is wild, with spikes and brown outs Currently the offices will have some or all of the following: A generator, with an inverter, or some sort of manual switch A big UPS or battery array connecting a number of devices Several smaller APC UPS with computers attached Low cost Voltage Regulators sometimes connected between mains and UPS or device. I know that each of these things needs to be appropriately rated for the equipment to which it is connected (although I am not sure how to calculate the correct rating). The offices will generally have the following equipment (in varying quantities): some sort of internet connection device (VSAT router, ADSL modem, WiMax router) Cisco ASA 5505 firewall a bunch of PCs printers one server I don't seek to replace the advice of an electrician, but in some of these locations they only answer the questions you ask them, so I need to make sure I have enough understanding of the essentials to protect equipment from damage, and possibly get through some power cuts.

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  • Why do I get a DependencyProperty.UnsetValue when converting a value in a MultiBinding?

    - by eskerber
    I have an extremely simple IMultiValueConverter that simply OR's two values. In the example below, I want to invert the first value using an equally simple boolean inverter. <MultiBinding Converter="{StaticResource multiBoolToVis}"> <Binding Path="ConditionA" Converter="{StaticResource boolInverter}"/> <Binding Path="ConditionB"/> </MultiBinding> public class BoolInverterConverter : IValueConverter { #region IValueConverter Members public object Convert(object value, Type targetType, object parameter, System.Globalization.CultureInfo culture) { if (value is bool) { return !((bool)value); } return null; } public object ConvertBack(object value, Type targetType, object parameter, System.Globalization.CultureInfo culture) { throw new NotImplementedException(); } #endregion } When I include the boolInverter, the first value in the MultiValueConverter becomes a "DependencyProperty.UnsetValue". There are no problems when I do not use the converter (other than not the logic I am aiming for, of course). Am I missing something? Stepping through the debugger shows that the InverseBoolConverter is properly inverting the value I pass it, but that value is then not being 'sent' to the MultiValueConverter.

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  • Laptop LCD sometimes stops working on reboot. Please help.

    - by J Ringle
    I have a Gateway P-6831FX Laptop with Vista Ultimate. The Laptop LCD will sometimes not come on after I reboot the computer. I don't even close the lid and it happens. It isn't dim, it doesn't come on at all. No posting of CMOS (BIOS), nothing. Please note... this happens sometimes, not every time. Frustrating! When plugged into an external monitor, which works fine, Vista display properties can't even "sense" the laptop LCD. I try to enable the laptop LCD for dual display, turning on the laptop LCD, and it does nothing. It's like the laptop LCD is not even there. Manually taking a magnet in my hand to the laptop lid sensing switch (the sensor that turns off display/sleep mode when you close lid), sometimes causes the LCD backlight to "turn on" but not display any images. By "turn on" I mean I can see the screen backlight turn on to a 'dark gray' screen instead of pitch black. Subsequent reboot the laptop display is not working again! Here are the facts: Only happens at random and only after a reboot. Waking from Sleep mode isn't a problem. Pressing F4 function key for dual display does nothing when this happens. Closing lid doesn't seem to be related. (unless it is only after reboot.) using external magnet from laptop screen sensor sometimes triggers backlight to turn on but reboot back to square one with no LCD display. an external display always works fine. I have taken apart LCD, checked all wires and ribbons for loose connections or damage. I have replaced the Inverter. It doesn't seem to be heat related as I can put in sleep mode and resume fine when very hot. (external monitor works fine too). Sometimes the screen works fine as if there is not a problem at all. Even after a reboot... This is random. Any ideas out there? If it is a bad part... which one? The LCD seems to be fine. What are the odds of 2 bad inverters? The backlight is fine. The LCD wires/ribbons seem to be fine. I am at a loss. No warranty left and Gateway tech support is clueless. Thanks for any feedback that might help.

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  • T60 Screen/LCD gets black after some minutes with a highpitched sound rising and fading

    - by Edward De Leau
    Just now my T60 screen got "black" (so no display). On my second monitor: no problems so the vga output works. symptom: Screen blanks / no display but works on second monitor steps to reproduce: - boot - wait (it does not matter what you do you do not have to login or anything) - (now the monitor of the laptop slowly begins to make a ssssssssHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHWOEOEssssssss noice of about 10 seconds) - right after the sounds ends the monitor gets black times seem to be the same each time. software: installed no new software before/after, running zone alarm and antivirus. other: it does not feel hot in any place, there dont seem to be running processes with strange behaviour. warranty: out of warranty what was i doing: typing text on a website and doing some php coding in a text editor. Anyone any idea what I can do here other than buy a new laptop? / does it sound familiar to known cases? update: * exactly the same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-Screen-Blackout/m-p/288772 and the second poster (garyj) here: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/Black-Screen-on-T60/m-p/235053#M48627 and here: "i have that same problem. i replaced the CCRL on mine and it works fine when the screen is not screwed in. once the frame of the LCD screen (metal portion) touches the metal on the laptop which holds the screen the screen goes black. If the metal is touching the screen when you boot up it boots up with it being very dimmly lit. " from http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-screen-problems/m-p/205047#M44995 (it seems replacing the lcd is no use, he tried it 3 times). same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-black-screen/m-p/80604#M25914 Hmmm... not handy 3 or 4 months ago I ordered and installed a new fan. Now the LCD. Which does not seem the core isse but some electric issue so it seems replacing the LCD is not the thing todo here. I have the following question: If it is not the LCD that needs to be replaced (see other threads) which parts can I order to fix this? Has anyone got any information which could lead me to identify the issue? I have read replacing the "inverter" AND the "backlightning" would that make sense?

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  • A dusty server room

    - by pauska
    Here's the story.. The owners of the building we lease office space from decided to do a renovation of the exterior. This involved in some pretty heavy work at the level where our server room is, including exchanging windows wich are fit inside a concrete wall. My red alert went off when I heard that they were going to do the same thing with our server room (yes, our server room has a window. We're a small shop with 3 racks. The window is secured with steel bars.) I explicity told the contractor that they need to put up a temporarily wall between our racks and the original wall - and to make sure that the temporary wall is 100 % air and water-tight. They promised to do so. The temporary wall has a small door in it, so that workers can go in/out through the day (through our server room, wich was the only option....). On several occasions I could find the small door half-way shut while working evenings/nights. I locked the door, and thought that they would hopefully get the point soon and keep the door shut. I even gave a electrician a mouthful when I saw that he didn't close the door properly. By this point - I bet that most of you get a picture of what happened. Yes, they probably left the door open while drilling in the concrete. I present you our 4 weeks old EMC VNX: I'll even put in a little bonus, here is the APC UPS one rack further away from the temporary wall. See the nice little landing strip from my finger? What should I do? The only thing that comes to mind is to either call all our suppliers (EMC, HP, Dell, Cisco) and get them to send technicians to check out all the gear in the server room, or get some kind of certified 3rd-party consulant to check all of it. Would you run production systems on this gear? How long? Edit: I should also note that our aircondition isn't exactly enterprise-grade, given the nature of our small room. It's just a single inverter, wich have failed one time before I started working here (failed inverters usually leads to water dripping out).

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  • Windows server detected error with hard disk

    - by user53864
    We have hosting Windows server 2008 R2 and I am working as admin in small company. The server is hanging and restarting as the hard disk seems to be damaged due to power fluctutaion(though having inverter) as it's showing the below error message on server reboot: Problem detected with the hard disk Press any key to continue It's Seagate 1TB SATA hard disk and it's booting after pressing enter. So it's clear that the hard disk is dying. Yes, it's in warranty but it's fact that warranty won't recover the lincesed windows server 2008 and it's data. As it's booting now, I backed up required things and I am thinking to clone the entire hard disk. The first thing it striked me is checking on the Seagate site if any tool available for cloning and I found Seagate DiskWizard but not specified it for windows server 2008. Please anybody could help me giving your best ideas for the below: Urgently, What's the best way(free of cost) for me to clone in my case with the new same sized hard disk? It's a one time lincenced and I cannot use the same key again if I reinstall the server. Will the lincense be carried with new disk if cloned? else there is a way to contact Microsoft explaining the problem occurred, to obtain new key for no charge?. I want to take measure for future. How do I keep two disks in continuous sync? mirrored & raid are the only options converting the disks to dynamic? or is there a best way I could do with no additional charge?. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you! EDIT:1 I started cloning the disk with CloneZilla and it was going proper showing in GUI. But after some time there is no GUI but a black screen with some codes(looks like disk location numbers) going page by page(I have attached the screenshots below captured from my phone). Do you people think it's actually cloning?. I started in the morning and it's evening now. I left the office now to let it finish what it's trying to do and I'll go & check it tomorrow. Slowly lost hope, don't know what face it's going to show tomorrow. Any ideas?

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