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  • Dell Inspiron 1564 overheating but fan not switching on, how to diagnose?

    - by Smugrik
    I've got a Dell Inspiron 1564 laptop that is about one and a half years old. Since about a week, the laptop started to overheat, causing it to switch off unexpectedly... The cpu fan is working erratically, it can start to spin for a while, doing its job and cooling down the cpu before it stops, but then the temperature goes up, and the fan doesn't reacts, once the temperature reaches a critical point (over 85 celsius, checked with speedfan...), the laptop switches off... I already cleaned the vents and fan from dust, to no avail, and it was actually quite clean anyway. Drivers and bios are up-to-date, no crapware was ever installed on this machine. I don't know how to diagnose the problem, could it be the temperature sensors that sends wrong information, so the fan doesn't reacts? but then I believe the computer wouldn't detect the overheat and stop... Is there a way I can pin point the problem? Maybe some low-level diagnostic tools to check functionality of sensors and fans??? The warranty is already over so any suggestion would be welcome. Thanks!!

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  • 10 Windows Tweaking Myths Debunked

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Windows is big, complicated, and misunderstood. You’ll still stumble across bad advice from time to time when browsing the web. These Windows tweaking, performance, and system maintenance tips are mostly just useless, but some are actively harmful. Luckily, most of these myths have been stomped out on mainstream sites and forums. However, if you start searching the web, you’ll still find websites that recommend you do these things. Erase Cache Files Regularly to Speed Things Up You can free up disk space by running an application like CCleaner, another temporary-file-cleaning utility, or even the Windows Disk Cleanup tool. In some cases, you may even see an old computer speed up when you erase a large amount of useless files. However, running CCleaner or similar utilities every day to erase your browser’s cache won’t actually speed things up. It will slow down your web browsing as your web browser is forced to redownload the files all over again, and reconstruct the cache you regularly delete. If you’ve installed CCleaner or a similar program and run it every day with the default settings, you’re actually slowing down your web browsing. Consider at least preventing the program from wiping out your web browser cache. Enable ReadyBoost to Speed Up Modern PCs Windows still prompts you to enable ReadyBoost when you insert a USB stick or memory card. On modern computers, this is completely pointless — ReadyBoost won’t actually speed up your computer if you have at least 1 GB of RAM. If you have a very old computer with a tiny amount of RAM — think 512 MB — ReadyBoost may help a bit. Otherwise, don’t bother. Open the Disk Defragmenter and Manually Defragment On Windows 98, users had to manually open the defragmentation tool and run it, ensuring no other applications were using the hard drive while it did its work. Modern versions of Windows are capable of defragmenting your file system while other programs are using it, and they automatically defragment your disks for you. If you’re still opening the Disk Defragmenter every week and clicking the Defragment button, you don’t need to do this — Windows is doing it for you unless you’ve told it not to run on a schedule. Modern computers with solid-state drives don’t have to be defragmented at all. Disable Your Pagefile to Increase Performance When Windows runs out of empty space in RAM, it swaps out data from memory to a pagefile on your hard disk. If a computer doesn’t have much memory and it’s running slow, it’s probably moving data to the pagefile or reading data from it. Some Windows geeks seem to think that the pagefile is bad for system performance and disable it completely. The argument seems to be that Windows can’t be trusted to manage a pagefile and won’t use it intelligently, so the pagefile needs to be removed. As long as you have enough RAM, it’s true that you can get by without a pagefile. However, if you do have enough RAM, Windows will only use the pagefile rarely anyway. Tests have found that disabling the pagefile offers no performance benefit. Enable CPU Cores in MSConfig Some websites claim that Windows may not be using all of your CPU cores or that you can speed up your boot time by increasing the amount of cores used during boot. They direct you to the MSConfig application, where you can indeed select an option that appears to increase the amount of cores used. In reality, Windows always uses the maximum amount of processor cores your CPU has. (Technically, only one core is used at the beginning of the boot process, but the additional cores are quickly activated.) Leave this option unchecked. It’s just a debugging option that allows you to set a maximum number of cores, so it would be useful if you wanted to force Windows to only use a single core on a multi-core system — but all it can do is restrict the amount of cores used. Clean Your Prefetch To Increase Startup Speed Windows watches the programs you run and creates .pf files in its Prefetch folder for them. The Prefetch feature works as a sort of cache — when you open an application, Windows checks the Prefetch folder, looks at the application’s .pf file (if it exists), and uses that as a guide to start preloading data that the application will use. This helps your applications start faster. Some Windows geeks have misunderstood this feature. They believe that Windows loads these files at boot, so your boot time will slow down due to Windows preloading the data specified in the .pf files. They also argue you’ll build up useless files as you uninstall programs and .pf files will be left over. In reality, Windows only loads the data in these .pf files when you launch the associated application and only stores .pf files for the 128 most recently launched programs. If you were to regularly clean out the Prefetch folder, not only would programs take longer to open because they won’t be preloaded, Windows will have to waste time recreating all the .pf files. You could also modify the PrefetchParameters setting to disable Prefetch, but there’s no reason to do that. Let Windows manage Prefetch on its own. Disable QoS To Increase Network Bandwidth Quality of Service (QoS) is a feature that allows your computer to prioritize its traffic. For example, a time-critical application like Skype could choose to use QoS and prioritize its traffic over a file-downloading program so your voice conversation would work smoothly, even while you were downloading files. Some people incorrectly believe that QoS always reserves a certain amount of bandwidth and this bandwidth is unused until you disable it. This is untrue. In reality, 100% of bandwidth is normally available to all applications unless a program chooses to use QoS. Even if a program does choose to use QoS, the reserved space will be available to other programs unless the program is actively using it. No bandwidth is ever set aside and left empty. Set DisablePagingExecutive to Make Windows Faster The DisablePagingExecutive registry setting is set to 0 by default, which allows drivers and system code to be paged to the disk. When set to 1, drivers and system code will be forced to stay resident in memory. Once again, some people believe that Windows isn’t smart enough to manage the pagefile on its own and believe that changing this option will force Windows to keep important files in memory rather than stupidly paging them out. If you have more than enough memory, changing this won’t really do anything. If you have little memory, changing this setting may force Windows to push programs you’re using to the page file rather than push unused system files there — this would slow things down. This is an option that may be helpful for debugging in some situations, not a setting to change for more performance. Process Idle Tasks to Free Memory Windows does things, such as creating scheduled system restore points, when you step away from your computer. It waits until your computer is “idle” so it won’t slow your computer and waste your time while you’re using it. Running the “Rundll32.exe advapi32.dll,ProcessIdleTasks” command forces Windows to perform all of these tasks while you’re using the computer. This is completely pointless and won’t help free memory or anything like that — all you’re doing is forcing Windows to slow your computer down while you’re using it. This command only exists so benchmarking programs can force idle tasks to run before performing benchmarks, ensuring idle tasks don’t start running and interfere with the benchmark. Delay or Disable Windows Services There’s no real reason to disable Windows services anymore. There was a time when Windows was particularly heavy and computers had little memory — think Windows Vista and those “Vista Capable” PCs Microsoft was sued over. Modern versions of Windows like Windows 7 and 8 are lighter than Windows Vista and computers have more than enough memory, so you won’t see any improvements from disabling system services included with Windows. Some people argue for not disabling services, however — they recommend setting services from “Automatic” to “Automatic (Delayed Start)”. By default, the Delayed Start option just starts services two minutes after the last “Automatic” service starts. Setting services to Delayed Start won’t really speed up your boot time, as the services will still need to start — in fact, it may lengthen the time it takes to get a usable desktop as services will still be loading two minutes after booting. Most services can load in parallel, and loading the services as early as possible will result in a better experience. The “Delayed Start” feature is primarily useful for system administrators who need to ensure a specific service starts later than another service. If you ever find a guide that recommends you set a little-known registry setting to improve performance, take a closer look — the change is probably useless. Want to actually speed up your PC? Try disabling useless startup programs that run on boot, increasing your boot time and consuming memory in the background. This is a much better tip than doing any of the above, especially considering most Windows PCs come packed to the brim with bloatware.     

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  • Chipset fan on the frtiz - compressed air hasn't fixed anything - is there anything I can do?

    - by Anthony
    Yesterday, my computer started to make an annoying whining noise. Knowing that this is likely a fan issue, I opened the case and proceeded to determine which fan was causing the issue. I got some compressed air and tried cleaning out the dust around it (and the rest of the computer while I was at it). This hasn't seemed to fix the issue. Now, if it were just any fan, I would probably just replace the fan - they're relatively cheap after all. However, this is a special fan. Aside: For what its worth, I feel bad that the graphics card blocks part of the fan, but it is the only slot the graphics card fits, so I had no choice. After pulling out my motherboard user guide, it looks like this is a fan placed directly on top of the chipset. To be perfectly honest, I have no clue what the purpose of the chipset is - but it sounds important. After some quick research, I see that it is responsible for providing the bridge between my CPU, RAM and graphics, among other things. Just a quick search at Newegg tells me that chipset fans can be purchased at pretty reasonable prices (< 20 dollars). Is it practical to replace this fan? It is an old computer as computers go and I wouldn't be terribly upset to upgrade the motherboard and processor, so perhaps this is a sign. Hardware Specs: Motherboard: Asus A8N-E Chipset: NVIDIA nForce4 Ultra

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  • Computer restarts without warning; code bcc116

    - by Robert C.
    Processor: Intel i5 4430 4-Core 4x3Ghz Motherboard: msi h87-g41 Graphics Card: Nvidia GTX760 Power supply: eps-750 cm RAM: 8GB I bought a new assembled gaming PC which worked fine for a few days. Then it started rebooting without warning. After it restarts windows 7 gives me an bbc 116 error code. Apparently it's something to do with my video card, either it overheating or wrong drivers. I've installed the latest driver from Nvidia for my graphics card. Since it's brand new it can't be dust, I'm running it with its lid open to see if the problem persists. I'm also running prime95 now to see if it tells me anything else. Using core temp it tells me that my CPU reaches up to 95° celsius with the blend stress test from prime95. Aaaand it just peaked to 100°. Of course it doesn't reach these temperatures at all while idle/gaming. I'm gonna let prime95 run for a night and to see what happens. Until then does anyone know what I should do next?

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  • Need to Remove Exchange 2003 Server That Crashed During Transition to 2010

    - by ThaKidd
    As the title stated, we were running an Exchange 2003 server that we knew was going down soon so we purchased a second server and installed Exchange 2010 into the AD. We managed to move all of the mailboxes off of 2003 and also managed to get the Offline Address Book setup on 2010. At this point the 2003 server bit the dust and will no longer boot. Therefore we were unable to properly uninstall Exchange and remove the last 2003 server so it still exists in AD. As far as the clients are concerned, everything is working properly. However, when I run the Microsoft Exchange Profile Analyzer, I still see the old server and its Administrative Group. I am going to guess that since the old server is showing up in AD, I will not be able to raise Exchange or AD functionality (as the 2003 server was also the only AD DC) levels. I have forced the 2003 DC out of AD so that is no longer an issue. Old Setup: Windows 2003 Server Enterprise & Exchange 2003 Standard New Setup: Windows 2010 Server Enterprise & Exchange 2010 Standard Two Questions: How do you go about manually forcing the 2003 server and its administrative group out of AD? When that is finished, where do you raise the Exchange mode (can't find this for the life of me)?

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  • Overheating Toshiba Satellite L300

    - by ldigas
    A coleague of mine's having trouble with his new Toshiba Satellite L300 ... I tool a kook at it, and indeed it's hot as hell. I couldn't hold my hand on it for too long. He says it also has a tendency to turn itself off (WinXP 32bit running) with no forewarning. Hasn't happened to me while I was using it, but that wasn't long anyways. The first guess was it was too dirty ... problem is it's new, came out of a package a quarter of a year ago. Kept in a clean environment (office). Looks clean. No dust in sight. Second guess is that the fan wasn't working properly, cause indeed it has intervals of working, and non working. But when I listen to it, it sounds like normal usage. I took a SpeedFan measurement, and it reports temp. up to 85 Celsius ... which is definitely too high. Anyone knows what else I could do to it ? It is under warranty and it will go to the service, but I thought if there is something we can do, as to avoid carrying it there / be without it for a week ...

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  • Is there any free software to check for issues with a DVD drive?

    - by AgentConundrum
    I don't usually play movies on my laptop (prefer the standalone with the tv), but I tried to watch one the other night, and noticed playback was really choppy and had audio artifacts in places. I thought it could be related to memory issues so I rebooted and tried again, but the results were the same. I considered that it could be an issue with the disc, so I tried to clean it but again there was no change. I don't think the problem is with the disc, because I tried another disc and it also had the same problem. I don't think I've ever watched the second disc since I've had it, so it should have been safe in its jewel case. Also, there were no issues when I watched an episode off the first disc in my standalone player. What I'm wondering is: are there are any (free) utilities that can check for issues with the drive itself? I looked around but most of the software I found focuses on integrity checks for the disc, not the drive. I have had issues with this laptop recently (had to replace the keyboard when the cat damaged it while I was cleaning dust out and the machine was ripped apart, also replaced part of the chassis after I cracked it when I tried to open it not knowing a screw was still in it) so I may have just replaced the drive incorrectly. I'm going to check on this while I await an answer to this question. Thanks.

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  • PC freezes after repeated clicking noises

    - by Péter Török
    I have an oldish PC (Athlon XP 2200, WinXP). Every time I switch it on, I hear a loud "click" first of all, and when it is shut down, again a click is the last sound I hear. Lately it started to behave erratically: it started to click loudly in the middle of a session. First only once in a while, then repeatedly for several seconds in a row, and finally it froze completely. We were not doing anything particular during these times, usually just browsing the web. This has already happened twice in a few week's time period. We typically use it only in the evenings, so when the freeze happened, I just decided it is time for the bed. When it was started up the next day, everything looked fine. Any hints on what could be the culprit? Could it be caused by an ageing heat fan, or dust that has accumulated inside the case? We are backing up all the data stored on it, and then will open the case to look inside, but I thought it would be good to get some background info first of all.

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  • What can I do to prevent system power downs?

    - by Joe King
    Yesterday I was given my brother's old laptop - core i7, 2.67GHz, 8GB RAM, 128GB SSD, Win7 64 bit. It's a Sony Vaio Z11. Approx 18 months old. When running something computationally intensive, the fan starts up and after about 30 secs it just powers itself down with no warning. I guess it is overheating. There is nothing in the event logs to suggest what is causing it - the only thing I see is "the last system shutdown was unexpected" or something similar. This is a problem for me because I use a lot of number crunching apps, which pretty much makes it useless to me. I would like to know if there is anything I can do, other than the obvious things I've done already - open up and clean out dust, re-install the OS. According to my brother, this problem started about 6 months ago when it was already outside warranty. If it's just used for simple things - web browsing, word processing etc, the problem does not occur. Any ideas for what I can do to fix this ? Update: I found that the laptop has 2 hardware settings for graphics: Speed and Stamina - the Speed setting seems to use an nvidia GEforce GT 330M, while the Stamina setting uses an Intel chipset. With the setting on Speed, I can hear the fan the whole time, and the system powers down after a short while (5-10 mins) even just doing basic tasks (browsing this site for example), but doesn't shut down if I just leave it switched on. In this mode it also sometimes just freezes the screen and I have to power off myself. However on Stamina setting it only powers down when doing number crunching and never freezes the screen.

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  • Motherboard running rather hot while gaming

    - by I take Drukqs
    Case: Antec 1200 Mobo: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU: Intel i7 950 (stock cooler) GPU: EVGA GeForce 570 GTX RAM: 2x 2 GB (4 GB total) DDR3 dual-channel Corsair OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit This is my first build and it's brand new. I had no problems putting it all together in a few hours one evening and I consider myself to be pretty good with computers. Not to brag or anything like that! Just saying I've been fiddling with them since I was in diapers and I have a good amount of experience under my belt, just not with certain things yet. Recently while playing many of the latest games maxed out without a hitch my motherboard has been running hot and like anyone who's ever built a computer it scares the life out of me. I checked HWMonitor and saw that my motherboard sometimes reached temperatures of around 52 - 78c (the number 78 obviously being what's scaring me). I was wondering if such a temperature is normal and if not what the problem could be. Air flow in my case is phenomenal and besides having to ship back a faulty GPU and reseat my CPU my first build has been a very large success which I am enjoying tremendously. There is literally almost no dust in my case due to it being very new as previously mentioned and my RAM sticks are in the correct slots for dual-channel mode. My cable management is pretty great in my opinion with only cables from my PSU lingering in the bottom of the case. At any given opportunity I ran my cables behind my mobo. Air flow should definitely not be a problem because my CPU only goes up to about 60c and my GPU only goes up to about 80c. Thank you very much in advance.

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  • Samsung laptop randomly shuts down

    - by Dmatig
    I've rewritten this question because it turned into an indecipherable mess. I have a Samsung R560 laptop that is overheating, and shutting itself down under load consistantly. Thank you quickcel for reccomending me Speedfan to monitor my temps. Here they are (Load / Idle): (Ignore "Temp1 and Temp2", whatever sensors they are they'd always random, pretty sure they're broke). The load temperature is after just 5 minites of playing Fallout 3 - another 5 minutes and it (the GPU - 9600M GS) consistantly breaches the mid 90's then shuts down, so it's hard to get a good picture of it. I'm looking for some solution or way to decrease these temperatures, because they seem far too high even idle. I've tried: Opening up the case and clearing of all dust with compressed air. Updating drivers for my Graphics card Have purchased and am using a notebook cooler I don't want to: Undervolt / underclock (defeats the point of having a more expensive card) Use lower power / performance settings (again, i might as well have bought something cheaper) Is there anything else i can try (software or inexpensive hardware) that can help me fix this? Has anybody had a Samsung laptop and knows if this can be sorted under my warranty, and the turnaround time of sending it off (UK?)(it has always ran hotter than it should, but now at 6 months old is getting hot enough to power off)

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  • Using my old PC as a web/file server?

    - by Garrett
    I have an old desktop computer that I've been trying to sell for AGES. I guess nobody is looking for computers because it was advertised at a dirt cheap price on craigslist, local papers, etc. Anyways, I was wondering if it would be worth it to set it up as a home file server, a web dev server (I have a web host for actual production use), and maybe host a few server applications (ex: ventrillo). The computer is actually an old Dell that I cannibalized after the motherboard being destroyed by lightning, so it has fairly new parts in it. The specs are: P4 3.4GHz w/ HT and Artic Cooling Freezer 7 3GB DDR2 533 RAM 80GB hdd (will upgrade the hard drive if it's even worth using as a server) basic dvd rom 430 Watt Thermaltake PSU (it might be important to note that it is only 60% efficiency) ATI Radeon x600 256MB Antec 300 case It's not a really beefy machine, I just can't see giving it away or putting it in the corner to just collect dust. I have Windows Server 2008 R2 Standard and I am confident in my skills in operating most Linux operating systems. I'd also be using it to tinker with when I learn new things in my server admin classes (I'm finishing my 2nd year in college at the moment so I'm still learning) Also, my house is quite old and the electrical wiring is pretty poor (it MIGHT be up to code, then again, where I live most people don't even know what regulations are or let alone know how to spell it...) Would it be safe to leave it running all day and is it going to run up my electric bill because of the PSU efficiency? I only have 5mbit cable internet, but I won't be running very bandwidth intense services on it so it should be ok. I should elaborate on why I am concerned about the power. The circuits should be fine, but I'm more concerned about fire hazard. What is the likelihood that the server could cause an electrical fire? Again, thank you all for the feedback!

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  • Of transactions and Mongo

    - by Nuri Halperin
    Originally posted on: http://geekswithblogs.net/nuri/archive/2014/05/20/of-transactions-and-mongo-again.aspxWhat's the first thing you hear about NoSQL databases? That they lose your data? That there's no transactions? No joins? No hope for "real" applications? Well, you *should* be wondering whether a certain of database is the right one for your job. But if you do so, you should be wondering that about "traditional" databases as well! In the spirit of exploration let's take a look at a common challenge: You are a bank. You have customers with accounts. Customer A wants to pay B. You want to allow that only if A can cover the amount being transferred. Let's looks at the problem without any context of any database engine in mind. What would you do? How would you ensure that the amount transfer is done "properly"? Would you prevent a "transaction" from taking place unless A can cover the amount? There are several options: Prevent any change to A's account while the transfer is taking place. That boils down to locking. Apply the change, and allow A's balance to go below zero. Charge person A some interest on the negative balance. Not friendly, but certainly a choice. Don't do either. Options 1 and 2 are difficult to attain in the NoSQL world. Mongo won't save you headaches here either. Option 3 looks a bit harsh. But here's where this can go: ledger. See, and account doesn't need to be represented by a single row in a table of all accounts with only the current balance on it. More often than not, accounting systems use ledgers. And entries in ledgers - as it turns out – don't actually get updated. Once a ledger entry is written, it is not removed or altered. A transaction is represented by an entry in the ledger stating and amount withdrawn from A's account and an entry in the ledger stating an addition of said amount to B's account. For sake of space-saving, that entry in the ledger can happen using one entry. Think {Timestamp, FromAccountId, ToAccountId, Amount}. The implication of the original question – "how do you enforce non-negative balance rule" then boils down to: Insert entry in ledger Run validation of recent entries Insert reverse entry to roll back transaction if validation failed. What is validation? Sum up the transactions that A's account has (all deposits and debits), and ensure the balance is positive. For sake of efficiency, one can roll up transactions and "close the book" on transactions with a pseudo entry stating balance as of midnight or something. This lets you avoid doing math on the fly on too many transactions. You simply run from the latest "approved balance" marker to date. But that's an optimization, and premature optimizations are the root of (some? most?) evil.. Back to some nagging questions though: "But mongo is only eventually consistent!" Well, yes, kind of. It's not actually true that Mongo has not transactions. It would be more descriptive to say that Mongo's transaction scope is a single document in a single collection. A write to a Mongo document happens completely or not at all. So although it is true that you can't update more than one documents "at the same time" under a "transaction" umbrella as an atomic update, it is NOT true that there' is no isolation. So a competition between two concurrent updates is completely coherent and the writes will be serialized. They will not scribble on the same document at the same time. In our case - in choosing a ledger approach - we're not even trying to "update" a document, we're simply adding a document to a collection. So there goes the "no transaction" issue. Now let's turn our attention to consistency. What you should know about mongo is that at any given moment, only on member of a replica set is writable. This means that the writable instance in a set of replicated instances always has "the truth". There could be a replication lag such that a reader going to one of the replicas still sees "old" state of a collection or document. But in our ledger case, things fall nicely into place: Run your validation against the writable instance. It is guaranteed to have a ledger either with (after) or without (before) the ledger entry got written. No funky states. Again, the ledger writing *adds* a document, so there's no inconsistent document state to be had either way. Next, we might worry about data loss. Here, mongo offers several write-concerns. Write-concern in Mongo is a mode that marshals how uptight you want the db engine to be about actually persisting a document write to disk before it reports to the application that it is "done". The most volatile, is to say you don't care. In that case, mongo would just accept your write command and say back "thanks" with no guarantee of persistence. If the server loses power at the wrong moment, it may have said "ok" but actually no written the data to disk. That's kind of bad. Don't do that with data you care about. It may be good for votes on a pole regarding how cute a furry animal is, but not so good for business. There are several other write-concerns varying from flushing the write to the disk of the writable instance, flushing to disk on several members of the replica set, a majority of the replica set or all of the members of a replica set. The former choice is the quickest, as no network coordination is required besides the main writable instance. The others impose extra network and time cost. Depending on your tolerance for latency and read-lag, you will face a choice of what works for you. It's really important to understand that no data loss occurs once a document is flushed to an instance. The record is on disk at that point. From that point on, backup strategies and disaster recovery are your worry, not loss of power to the writable machine. This scenario is not different from a relational database at that point. Where does this leave us? Oh, yes. Eventual consistency. By now, we ensured that the "source of truth" instance has the correct data, persisted and coherent. But because of lag, the app may have gone to the writable instance, performed the update and then gone to a replica and looked at the ledger there before the transaction replicated. Here are 2 options to deal with this. Similar to write concerns, mongo support read preferences. An app may choose to read only from the writable instance. This is not an awesome choice to make for every ready, because it just burdens the one instance, and doesn't make use of the other read-only servers. But this choice can be made on a query by query basis. So for the app that our person A is using, we can have person A issue the transfer command to B, and then if that same app is going to immediately as "are we there yet?" we'll query that same writable instance. But B and anyone else in the world can just chill and read from the read-only instance. They have no basis to expect that the ledger has just been written to. So as far as they know, the transaction hasn't happened until they see it appear later. We can further relax the demand by creating application UI that reacts to a write command with "thank you, we will post it shortly" instead of "thank you, we just did everything and here's the new balance". This is a very powerful thing. UI design for highly scalable systems can't insist that the all databases be locked just to paint an "all done" on screen. People understand. They were trained by many online businesses already that your placing of an order does not mean that your product is already outside your door waiting (yes, I know, large retailers are working on it... but were' not there yet). The second thing we can do, is add some artificial delay to a transaction's visibility on the ledger. The way that works is simply adding some logic such that the query against the ledger never nets a transaction for customers newer than say 15 minutes and who's validation flag is not set. This buys us time 2 ways: Replication can catch up to all instances by then, and validation rules can run and determine if this transaction should be "negated" with a compensating transaction. In case we do need to "roll back" the transaction, the backend system can place the timestamp of the compensating transaction at the exact same time or 1ms after the original one. Effectively, once A or B visits their ledger, both transactions would be visible and the overall balance "as of now" would reflect no change.  The 2 transactions (attempted/ reverted) would be visible , since we do actually account for the attempt. Hold on a second. There's a hole in the story: what if several transfers from A to some accounts are registered, and 2 independent validators attempt to compute the balance concurrently? Is there a chance that both would conclude non-sufficient-funds even though rolling back transaction 100 would free up enough for transaction 117 (some random later transaction)? Yes. there is that chance. But the integrity of the business rule is not compromised, since the prime rule is don't dispense money you don't have. To minimize or eliminate this scenario, we can also assign a single validation process per origin account. This may seem non-scalable, but it can easily be done as a "sharded" distribution. Say we have 11 validation threads (or processing nodes etc.). We divide the account number space such that each validator is exclusively responsible for a certain range of account numbers. Sounds cunningly similar to Mongo's sharding strategy, doesn't it? Each validator then works in isolation. More capacity needed? Chop the account space into more chunks. So where  are we now with the nagging questions? "No joins": Huh? What are those for? "No transactions": You mean no cross-collection and no cross-document transactions? Granted - but don't always need them either. "No hope for real applications": well... There are more issues and edge cases to slog through, I'm sure. But hopefully this gives you some ideas of how to solve common problems without distributed locking and relational databases. But then again, you can choose relational databases if they suit your problem.

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  • New to building computers worried about temps

    - by dave
    I'm new to building my own computers and I was wondering about maximum temperatures. I understand that the room temp can affect the computers temp but how relevent is it? I understand that if my room temp is 20°C none of my computer parts could be lower than that. But if my room is 27°C instead of 20°C would this cause my computers parts to heat up more/faster? My new computer I built myself for gaming is i7 2600k 16gb ram ddr3 1600 hd6970 2 gb 240gb ssd ( bought a nas with 3 2tb drives in raid 5 for my home network ) 850w modular psu I also have my old hp computer i3 2120 8gb ram hd6770 1tb hdd I also have 3 laptops in my household, but I am not worried about their temps, they heat up my legs but they are never under stress. Due to size and money reasons I used an old case and it only has one of the sides left on it. Is this bad for the computer and will the extra dust cause problems? Or should I leave it this way or take the missus wrath and buy a case? If so is there any certain case I should get? I don't care about looks I just want card reader and usb slots and for it to run as cool or cooler than now, my case has 1 fan. Also what are the max temps for my new and old computer parts? Is 40°C under load ok for my CPU, what about 70°C for my GPU is that ok too, or should I worry? What are normal and safe temps for my components? I have looked around but there seem to be lots of different answers. I know that 100°C is bad but I want my parts to last as long as possible and this site always seems to give good replies without arguing or flaming.

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  • Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

    - by Jeff M
    I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

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  • High fan speed with no reason

    - by Klaus
    For a few weeks, the fans of my Lenovo B590 laptop, running on Xubuntu 14, turn to high speed a few minutes after it is turned on. The fans won't speed down until I turn the computer off. This is quite strange, since This didn't happen before The temperatures are quite low (are they ?) $sensors Adapter: Virtual device temp1: +36.0°C (crit = +88.0°C) temp2: +30.0°C (crit = +126.0°C) coretemp-isa-0000 Adapter: ISA adapter Physical id 0: +37.0°C (high = +72.0°C, crit = +90.0°C) Core 0: +34.0°C (high = +72.0°C, crit = +90.0°C) Core 1: +31.0°C (high = +72.0°C, crit = +90.0°C) thinkpad-isa-0000 Adapter: ISA adapter fan1: 0 RPM pkg-temp-0-virtual-0 Adapter: Virtual device temp1: +37.0°C $sudo hddtemp /dev/sda /dev/sda: ST500LT012-9WS142: 33°C The computer is under low load: top - 08:30:15 up 16 min, 2 users, load average: 0.28, 0.23, 0.23 Tasks: 197 total, 1 running, 196 sleeping, 0 stopped, 0 zombie %Cpu(s): 0.8 us, 0.5 sy, 0.0 ni, 98.7 id, 0.0 wa, 0.0 hi, 0.0 si, 0.0 st KiB Mem: 3607944 total, 1973956 used, 1633988 free, 99660 buffers KiB Swap: 3744764 total, 0 used, 3744764 free. 789936 cached Mem The BIOS is up to date (and there are no fan settings in it) The fan is clean and dust-free Why would the BIOS turn the fans to high speed where there seem to be no reason for that ? It seems that we cannot control the fan manually with this model, so I guess the only solution is to understand why this happens.

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  • USB drive was bootable, but no longer boots

    - by i-g
    I'm trying to install a new OS onto a computer from a bootable USB stick. I previously installed Ubuntu Linux and it was a piece of cake -- I downloaded the ISO image, used UNetbootin to copy it to the USB drive and make it bootable, and that was that. Now, however, no matter what I try, I can't make the same USB drive bootable again! I've tried formatting it as FAT32 and NTFS. I've tried several different Linux distributions and Windows 7. I've tried using UNetbootin, Windows 7 USB Download Tool, WinToFlash, and manually making it bootable with diskpart/bootsect/bootrec. (Yes, I've tried bootsect /nt60 x: /force.) None of this seems to be working! When I try to boot from the drive, the machine reads from it (I can see the drive's LED blinking) and then gives me the same "Insert system disk and press Enter" message. (I've disabled booting from the hard drive.) Am I missing something I need to do to make the USB drive bootable again? I think it lost some pixie dust when I formatted it with the standard Windows formatting tool (it was quicker than deleting files), but I have no idea what it was or how to get it back. The USB drive in question is a SanDisk Cruzer 8GB SDCZ6. The computer I'm working on is running Windows Vista SP1.

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  • Gaming blew fuse: how to overcome?

    - by George Tomlinson
    I've been gaming for a while now. When playing certain games this PC goes into overdrive. The fan/fans start/s to sound like a jet engine it/they get/s so busy. Also I have smelt burning when this has happened. The fuse blew on the 4 socket adapter I was using recently. On the following thread someone said this could be due to the PSU not being strong enough to handle the load, in what it seems could be a related issue someone had, although the person who posted this question did say that blowing a fan on their PC stopped it crashing in that case: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2047543/gtx-650-overheating-issue.html. This is exactly what they said: Your GPU isn't overheating. 70+ before it would shutdown and cause a restart. Make sure your PSU is strong enough to handle your new system at load and possibly run Memtest to check your RAM (although not BSOD'ing and just shutting down points to the PSU). This (the PSU part) makes more sense to me than it being to do with dust etc, since it seems a more plausible explanation of why the fuse blew. The PC has no problems except when playing certain games: i.e. TERA Rising and WoW with add-ons (I think WoW is ok as long as I don't have more than 1 add-on (Healers Have To Die)). I'm just wondering if anyone knows or can suggest what I might be able to do to be able to play these games without this problem occurring. The PC's spec is this: Display: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 8GB RAM (6 available) Processor: AMD FX (tm) - 8120 Eight-Core Processor - 3.1 GHz, 4 Cores, 8 Logical Processors I have read on another post that forcing vsync in the Nvidia Control Panel helped with what seems could be a similar problem, so I plan to see if that solves it, God permitting.

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  • Computer won't start after installing new video card

    - by Vercas
    So, 1 year and 340 days ago I bought a desktop computer. Since then, it has served me well. But lately, I wanted an upgrade, so I bought a new video card. I documented myself about the compatibility, and it is okay. So I opened the case, cleaned up that... dust elemental living inside of it. Unscrewed the plastic thingie on the outside to unscrew the old video card. Because of the stupid arrangement of the ports, I had to unscrew the motherboard to unplug it. So I unscrewed it, removed the old card, put in the new one, moved the motherboard back, screwed it back in, screwed the video card on the holder... thingie, and screwed the plastic thingie back in. Everything went smoothly, nothing had to be forced in/out. I connected the external power supply, closed the computer case, put the tower back in it's place and all the cables back in. When I pressed the power button, the LED turned... some color I can't distinguish. It stayed that way for a second, and then it went off. I tried a bunch of things, including permuting the external power supply arrangement (1 connection, 2 connections and no connections), with no success. And here are some of the specifications: Motherboard manufacturer: Asrock Processor: AMD Athlon II X2 3.0 GHz RAM: 2 x 2GB (had only 1 initially, bought the second plate a bit later) OLD video card: AMD Radeon HD 5450 NEW video card: Gigabyte nVidia GeForce GTX 650 GPU, 1GB GDDR5 128bit PCI-E, Dual-link DVI-Dx2 / HDMI / D-Sub Power supply: 450W + all the requirements I managed to find on the internet are met (+12V 18A or something) More specific information is stored... On that computer. If required, I may open the case again and read the stickers to find more specific information. I can also provide photos if necessary. Any ideas? Suggestions? Something? :|

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  • How to diagnose issue between mobo, RAID, and SSD cache drive? [migrated]

    - by goober
    Background This issue is happening on my custom-built desktop. Relevant specs: Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO Utilizing Intel RST technology (application that uses unused SSD as cache) Processor: Intel core i7-2600k (not overclocked) HDDs: RAID1 of 2x Seagate Barracuda 1TB (ST31000524AS) (RAID performed via z68 chipset) Machine has run fine for ~1 year with no issues, and has been well-maintained (dust, etc.) What Happened Random Freezing issues -- intermittent Looked at the RST application screen to see that the acceleration cache was listed as "unavailable" -- recommended that I power down and reconnect the drive. Reconnected the drive to no avail. Attempted to move the drive to another SATA port. Acceleration option disappeared from RST software. Now, the freeze happens whenever loading something particularly data-driven (a video, a game, etc.) Steps Attempted Reconnected the drive to no avail. Updated Intel RST software to v. 11.6.0.1030 to see if that made a difference. Attempted to move the drive to another SATA port. Acceleration option disappeared from RST software. Connected the drive as its own volume. Formatted it, ran disk check errors -- all seems fine. Reconnected the drive and selected it again as the cache drive. Now, what happens when there is a freeze: Machine freezes I am unable to perform any command Screen then goes black I hit the reset button During boot, all drives show as "Disabled" and I am told no volume can be found I then hit the reset button (or power off/on) again. Either the next time (or sometimes after repeating this once more), the metadata cache is reconstructed and the system boots fine, showing the SSD as a cache. Question I believe this is an issue with the SSD itself, but how can I be sure since connecting it separately appeared to show no problems? I want to make sure it's not an issue with the motherboard, SATA ports, etc.

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  • "Document in ADF" on Canon MX340

    - by Michael Donohue
    I have a Canon MX340 multifunction printer. Recently, it keeps saying "Document in ADF" when I turn on the printer. I've tried clearing this multiple times, but as soon as the feeder wheels stop turning, in an attempt to clear the document feeder, it just pops up the same error again. This is particularly annoying, as it blocks all functions on the device - I cannot print, even though printing has no interaction with the document feeder. I've opened up the feeder device, as much as can be done with fingers alone. There just doesn't seem to be anything in there. I ran a sheet of paper through about six times, just to see if some dust might be getting in the way, and I've blown out the feeder with air. Still nothing. At this point, I don't care too much about the ADF working, I just want to disable whatever sensor is tripping this error message. Any ideas? I found this thread online, where a user has the same problem. But no resolution was reached there.

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  • Graphics artifacts/distortion with Win7 and nVidia

    - by Gepard
    Problem I encounter is rather hard to describe, so I provide a screenshot: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1732760/video-distortion.png As you can see there are some horizontal stripes in random colors. These stripes appear sometimes in all windowed apps, games and on the desktop too. They tend to stay in place until I refresh window (or force it to to redraw by for example minimizing and maximizing again). They also tend to appear in the same place and shape multiple times, even if they disappear, it's very likely they will be again in the same place after a while. These artifacts do not blink or change if computer is idling. If I don't touch anything, do not use mouse, they will stay in place forever (unless some app redraws its window on its own). I first encountered this problem some weeks ago. Back then I thought it might be cooling problem, so I took out the graphics card, removed dust from the radiator and fan and put it into PC back. I also ran some stress test using Furmark (peak tempearature was ~65C) to see if the problem becomes more intense if the card gets hotter, but suprisingly no artifacts whatsoever appear during the stress test. Graphic card is Galaxy GeForce 7300 GT with DDR3 memory, was never overclocked. Drivers are the latest, from Nvidia site. OS is Windows 7 64-bit, updated. AMD64 3000+, 2GB RAM. I'm running a dual monitor setup with 2 19'' Samsung LCDs and problem is on both, so I assume it's not a monitor or cable issue.

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  • Laptop CPU fan not working properly

    - by Smith
    My laptop's CPU fan is suddenly acting very bizarre, and I am at a loss for what to do so I am asking for some help. Specifically, the fan is not even starting to spin until the CPU reaches 60 degrees Celsius (checked through HWmonitor). Once it is on, however, it properly stays on even when the CPU gets back to idle temps around 38 Celsius. Before, the fan was simply starting with the computer and staying on like normal. I've checked this for consistency both by allowing cold boots to ramp up temperature to 60 Celsius (the slow climb also causing the laptop to become unreasonably warm near the heatsink), and also running Prime95 immediately to kickstart the fan (this works every time). The fan seems to be stationary when turning the computer on from either sleep or shutdown. The fan will start at POST very briefly, and then stop completely. I've checked the BIOS for a SmartFan setting but haven't found any. I've opened the case to check for dust or debris and have not found anything (I applied some canned air to the area just in case). The laptop is a Lenovo ThinkPad Edge E430 and the CPU is an Intel Core i5 3210m @ 2.5 GHz. Any advice would really be appreciated.

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  • apache/httpd responds slower under EL6.1 than EL5.6 (centos)

    - by daniel
    I've read through other threads on performance differences between RHEL6 and RHEL5, but none seem a tight match to mine. My issue manifests itself in slightly slower average response time (20ms) per request. I have about 10/10 servers of the same hardware spec with Cent6.1 and Cent5.6. The issue is consistent across the group. I am running Ruby on Rails with Passenger. Apache config is identical (checked out from the same SVN repo) Ruby and Passenger are identical builds. Application is identical and being served traffic round robin. mod_worker An interesting clue from server-status: The Cent6.1 servers have a steady 20-40 threads in the "Reading Request" state while the Cent5.6 servers have around 1. I'm graphing this so I can see it trend over time. I also have a bunch of much newer machines that are significantly faster and are running Cent6.1. They dust all the older machines in response time, but I can see they also have a steady 20-40 threads in the "Reading Request" state. This makes me believe I can get their response time down, if I can figure out what is holding up these requests. My gut is telling me that I need to tune some network setting in sysctl, but I haven't figured it out yet. Help is appreciated.

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  • Computer is dying--what should I be looking for?

    - by Will
    Okay, I'm a bit knowledgeable with pooters and such, but i'm confused. My computer is dying slowly, and I'm not sure what part is causing this. Computer details: Vista, dell machine, intel Q6600, 2.4 Core Duo (quad core), standard memory and drive (unknown manufacturer). Symptoms: I would best describe the symptoms as memory corruption. After a couple days on, I start getting applications crashing or failing to open for a lack of "resources". Sounds are corrupted. Onscreen text gets corrupted; the characters of text are garbled, not the pixels on the screen. Video memory seems untouched as I haven't seen any misplaced pixels. Recently I've lost files on disk. I've also experienced errors reporting a supposed lack of disk space, even though I have fifty gigs free. There was one point where I couldn't get to the POST when booting up. After I cleaned everything (see next) this hasn't happened. Diagnostic steps: First thing I did was clean the case. There was a lot of dust buildup on heatsinks, so I cleaned all that up. No help. Next, I disconnected and reconnected everything, from power cables to memory (did not reseat cpu). No change. Last, I ran the standard vista memory diagnostics and ran checkdisk. Both reported no errors found. I have not run any POST tests, now that I think about it. I'm at a loss at this point. Disk appears fine, memory too. I'd expect motherboard issues to result in the thing not booting up, yet it does every time. What should I be looking at? What more can I do?

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