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  • How to connect android application running on a device to a local web application?

    - by guna
    I have my droid device connected through USB and using Eclipse for debugging my application running on the device. Everything is fine, except my application needs to connect to a web application running on the same host computer (Windows XP, IE). The web address on the IE was "http://local:4566/MyApp/". I tried to set my android app to "http://10.0.2.2:4566/MyApp", but no luck. The android app's connection simply times out. The document under http://developer.android.com/guide/developing/tools/emulator.html says that the ip address may be different for devices (see Network Address Space section) but no further details on how to find that. Question is, how to I connect to a local web application running on my host computer (windows xp) from an Android application connected through USB running debug under Eclipse? Appreciate any help. thanks, Guna

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  • Not able to run my first program on anroid tablet

    - by misguided
    I am not able to run on my android tablet. I have been following the Android training link It says To run the app from Eclipse: Open one of your project's files and click Run from the toolbar. In the Run as window that appears, select Android Application and click OK. But when I do the same , I do not see anything on my Mototola xoom Tablet. I have checke dthe following link for Setting up USB drivers.As per the link , I have confirmed that device is connected When plugged in over USB, you can verify that your device is connected by executing adb devices from your SDK platform-tools/ directory. If connected, you'll see the device name listed as a "device." C:\Android\sdk\platform-tools>adb devices List of devices attached 0380610842bf5157 device Can anyone please advise where I am going wrong. What should I do to make my eclipse code run on android tablet.

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  • Windows Vista/7: Managing multiple audio playback devices

    - by BrianLy
    I've got speakers (audio in) and headphones (USB headset with it's own soundcard) connected to my desktop computer. Under Windows 7, I can right-click the Audio Mixer and select Playback Devices and toggle between my these devices. Is there an easier way, perhaps a keyboard shortcut, that would make it easier to toggle? I'm working in an shared space were sometimes I want headphones to avoid annoying other people, but at other times speakers are OK. I want to be able to toggle quickly. In an ideal world, the solution to my question would work in Vista too.

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  • MS Office Communicator: Long delays in setting up audio connection when starting a call

    - by geofftnz
    I am using Microsoft Office Communicator with a USB headset as my work phone. OCS is connected to our PABX so we can take and make calls to regular, non-OCS phones. When making an external call to a cellphone, it can take up to 5-10 seconds for audio to start flowing. eg: Work Phone Cellphone - dial cellphone (ringing) (ringing) answer cellphone (hearing nothing) speak "1" . speak "2" . speak "3" . ... . speak "14" hear "15" speak "15" hear "16" speak "16" Has anyone experienced this kind of thing with an OCS setup? Any pointers?

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  • Bluetooth device won't re-add after being removed (Windows 7)

    - by HericDenis
    I've got a SBH52 headset, it works fine on my android phone, then I tried to use it with my Windows 7 PC, then it won't work because Microsoft Windows dosen't have native support for A2DP connections and one of the answers on the previous link said that removing the device from "devices and printers", running this software and then re-add the device would solve the problem. But the big problem is that they won't pair again: I tried, hopelessly, the suggested fixes from Windows, it won't work. By the way, it is Windows 7 (x64), it just looks like Windows 8. I had this problem once many years ago with other PC and Bluetooth device, I remember it had something to do with drivers that were not removed and I tried to delete them from somewhere, and as far as I remember it worked, but no idea how. In short, how can I pair it again with my PC?

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  • How to get headphones and speakers working at the same time?

    - by Borek
    I have a Gigabyte P55-UD3 motherboard which comes with a Realtek sound card and audio header for the front panel. My headset is permanently connected to the front panel (mic in, headphones in) and I also have speakers connected at the rear of the computer. What I want to achieve is that both the headphones and the speakers work at the same time. On my old PC with Realtek, I was able to do this by clicking "Device advanced settings" in the Realtek HD Audio Manager and then clicking "Make front and rear output devices playback two different audio streams simultaneously" and then doing some reassigning of front/rear settings in the Realtek Audio Manager (can't remember the details). But that doesn't seem to be working now - either the speakers play sounds or the headphones, not both at the same time. To pose the question differently, Windows plays the sounds on the "default device". I'd like to make both headphones and the speakers kind of like the default devices.

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  • how to make bridge networking with KVM work in Fedora19

    - by netllama
    I'm attempting to get several virtual machines setup on a Fedora-19 host system, with the traditional bridge network devices (br0, br1, etc). I've done this many times before with older versions of Fedora (16, 14, etc), and it just works. However, for reasons that I cannot figure out, the bridge doesn't seem to be working in Fedora19. While I can successfully connect to the outside world (local network + internet) from inside a VM, nothing can communicate with the VM from outside (local network). I'm referring to something as trivial as pinging. From inside the VM, I can ping anything successfully (0% packet loss). However, from outside the VM (on the host, or any other system on the same network), I see 100% packet loss when pinging the IP address of the VM. My first question is simply, does anyone else have this working successfully in F19? And if so, what steps did you need to follow? I'm not using NetworkManager at all, its all the network service. There are no firewalls involved anywhere (iptables & firewall services are currently disabled). Here's the current host configuration: # brctl show bridge name bridge id STP enabled interfaces br0 8000.38eaa792efe5 no em2 vnet1 br1 8000.38eaa792efe6 no em3 br2 8000.38eaa792efe7 no em4 vnet0 virbr0 8000.525400db3ebf yes virbr0-nic # more /etc/sysconfig/network-scripts/ifcfg-em2 TYPE=Ethernet BRIDGE="br0" NAME=em2 DEVICE="em2" UUID=aeaa839e-c89c-4d6e-9daa-79b6a1b919bd ONBOOT=yes HWADDR=38:EA:A7:92:EF:E5 NM_CONTROLLED="no" # more /etc/sysconfig/network-scripts/ifcfg-br0 TYPE=Bridge NM_CONTROLLED="no" BOOTPROTO=dhcp NAME=br0 DEVICE="br0" ONBOOT=yes # ifconfig em2 ;ifconfig br0 em2: flags=4163<UP,BROADCAST,RUNNING,MULTICAST> mtu 1500 inet6 fe80::3aea:a7ff:fe92:efe5 prefixlen 64 scopeid 0x20<link> ether 38:ea:a7:92:ef:e5 txqueuelen 1000 (Ethernet) RX packets 100093 bytes 52354831 (49.9 MiB) RX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 frame 0 TX packets 25321 bytes 15791341 (15.0 MiB) TX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 carrier 0 collisions 0 device memory 0xf7d00000-f7e00000 br0: flags=4163<UP,BROADCAST,RUNNING,MULTICAST> mtu 1500 inet 10.31.99.226 netmask 255.255.252.0 broadcast 10.31.99.255 inet6 fe80::3aea:a7ff:fe92:efe5 prefixlen 64 scopeid 0x20<link> ether 38:ea:a7:92:ef:e5 txqueuelen 0 (Ethernet) RX packets 19619 bytes 1963328 (1.8 MiB) RX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 frame 0 TX packets 11 bytes 1074 (1.0 KiB) TX errors 0 dropped 0 overruns 0 carrier 0 collisions 0 Relevant section from /etc/libvirt/qemu/foo.xml (one of the VMs with this problem): <interface type='bridge'> <mac address='52:54:00:26:22:9d'/> <source bridge='br0'/> <model type='virtio'/> <address type='pci' domain='0x0000' bus='0x00' slot='0x03' function='0x0'/> </interface> # ps -ef | grep qemu qemu 1491 1 82 13:25 ? 00:42:09 /usr/bin/qemu-system-x86_64 -machine accel=kvm -name cuda-linux64-build5 -S -machine pc-0.13,accel=kvm,usb=off -cpu SandyBridge,+pdpe1gb,+osxsave,+dca,+pcid,+pdcm,+xtpr,+tm2,+est,+smx,+vmx,+ds_cpl,+monitor,+dtes64,+pbe,+tm,+ht,+ss,+acpi,+ds,+vme -m 16384 -smp 6,sockets=6,cores=1,threads=1 -uuid 6e930234-bdfd-044d-2787-22d4bbbe30b1 -no-user-config -nodefaults -chardev socket,id=charmonitor,path=/var/lib/libvirt/qemu/cuda-linux64-build5.monitor,server,nowait -mon chardev=charmonitor,id=monitor,mode=control -rtc base=localtime -no-shutdown -device piix3-usb-uhci,id=usb,bus=pci.0,addr=0x1.0x2 -drive file=/var/lib/libvirt/images/cuda-linux64-build5.img,if=none,id=drive-virtio-disk0,format=raw,cache=writeback -device virtio-blk-pci,scsi=off,bus=pci.0,addr=0x4,drive=drive-virtio-disk0,id=virtio-disk0,bootindex=1 -netdev tap,fd=25,id=hostnet0,vhost=on,vhostfd=26 -device virtio-net-pci,netdev=hostnet0,id=net0,mac=52:54:00:26:22:9d,bus=pci.0,addr=0x3 -chardev pty,id=charserial0 -device isa-serial,chardev=charserial0,id=serial0 -vnc 127.0.0.1:1 -vga cirrus -device virtio-balloon-pci,id=balloon0,bus=pci.0,addr=0x5 I can provide additional information, if requested. thanks!

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  • Windows 8.1 unable to play Music or the Audio from videos through Optical Out

    - by Zion Fox
    I am having an issue with my audio output, where any music file, and the audio side of videos are not being played through my optical audio output. I am running a Realtek HD Audio device built on Revision 1.0 on a GA-P55A-UD6 Gigabyte Board, which runs through it's optical output to an Astro A40 Mixamp, which does some upscaling before sending it to the headset. Now, notification sounds, and sounds/videos/music played through the browser or programs like Skype or games are working fine. This seems to specifically effect Foobar2000 and Media Player Classic. I have updated these two programs to their latest revisions, in addition to the soundcard drivers to no avail, and searching the error code thrown by Foobar2000: Unrecoverable playback error: The parameter is incorrect. (0x80070057) through Google returns not very helpful results, other than the one potentially mentioning DRM. This issue I am having a very hard time resolving, and am wondering if anyone here has experienced similar issues after updating.

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  • Performing mechanical movements using computer

    - by Vi
    How to make a computer (in particular, my laptop) to perform some mechanical movements without buying anything $5, soldering things inside computer or creating big sophisticated circuits? Traditionally CD-ROM tray is used to make computer do some movement IRL by, for example, SSH command, but in laptop tray is one-shot (unless manually reloaded) and also not very comfortable [mis]usage. Some assistance circuits can be in use too, but not complex. For example, there is a little motor that can work on USB power. Devices in my computer: DVD-ROM tray: one-time push. USB power: continuous power to the motor or LEDS or relay that turns on something powerful. Audio card. 3 outputs (modprobe alsa model=test can set Mic and Line-in as additional output). One controllable DC output (microphone) that can power up LED and some electronic (may be even mechanic?) relay. Also with sophisticated additional circuiting can control a lot of devices with a good precision. Both input and output support. Probably the most useful object in computer for radio ham. Modem. Don't know about this much, it doesn't work because of hsfmodem crashes kernel if memory is = 1GB. May be it's "pick up" and "hang up" can turn on and off power taken from USB port? Video card. VGA port? S-Video port? Will them be useful? Backlight. Tunable, but probably unuseful. CardBus (or some) slot. Nothing interesting for the task probably (is it?). AC adapter and battery. Probably nothing programmable here. /* My AC adapter already have additional jacks to connect extra devics */ Keyboard. No use. Touchpad. Good sensor (synclient -m 1), but no output. Various LEDs inside laptop. Probably too weak and requires soldering. Fans inside laptop. Poor control over them, requires soldering and dangerous to tinker. HDD (internal and external) that can be spin down and up (hdparm -Y, cat /dev/ubb). But connecting anything serially with it's power line makes HDD underpowered... And too complex. Is something are missed? Any ideas how to use described components? Any other ideas? May be there are easily available /* in developing countries */ cheap devices like "enhanced multimeters" that are controllable from computer and can provide configurable output and measure current and other things? Things to aid pushing many physical buttons with computer. Isn't this a simple idea and implementation and a lot of use in good hands?

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  • No audio input deviced are installed

    - by Meowbits
    If I go to Sound Recording Devices and it says "No audio devices are installed" If I click to set up a microphone I get an error "Wizard could not launch, No audio input device found, make sure your audio hardware is working properly and check your audio configuration in the Audio Devices and Sound Themes control panel. Where can I get an audio input device? I just want something so I can actually use the microphone on my headset. This is ridiculous. I have tried to look for any file but I simply cannot find a way to add an audio input device... I really do not want to format my computer just for this problem but I am starting to feel like that is the only option I have. I have the latest chipsets

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  • How to add a midi ringtone to my Nokia E65?

    - by Palantir
    Hi! Once upon a time, my pc suite had a function to prepare ringtones and upload them to the E65. Now I find myself with the all-new Nokia PC Suite 7.1 and I cannot find anything which resembles that function. I used to select a midi file, add some options, listen to a preview, and then upload it. It would appear among the ringing tones when customizing profiles. I tried this "Nokia Music" which is linked from the PC Suite, but it won't recognize the headset. What can I do?

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  • My computer keeps crashing and I just want it FIXED

    - by xabaddon
    So long story short, I had my brother build me a computer for my birthday last year. I saw how good his was (also built by him) so I decided I would have him build me one. About a month after this was all finished, my computer started crashing when I when run over 3 programs. For example, an online game, a music player (spotify), skype, and a browser with a few tabs open. The way it would crash is the screen will freeze and a buzzing noise will come from whatever audio device I am using (headset, speakers) I took it to a computer tech guy and he told me my cooling system was inadequate. SOOO he led me to buy a CORSAIR H75 Liquid cooling system. Everything was good for about a week, and now it just did the same thing again. I am so freaking over this guys and I really need some help figuring out what the heck is wrong, I dont care how long it takes, just please help me.

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  • How do I relay output from a soundboard into input on skype?

    - by Anthony
    I'm trying to find a way to play audio from flash soundboards to people on skype. I apparently do not have Wave/Stereo mix/What u hear supported on my soundcard (I have windows 7 professional). I only have one soundcard, and I'm usually using headset. However, I have another laptop with windows vista on it that does have stereo mix available. The problem is, it still doesn't work. When I click an audio bit it just doesn't do anything. It plays on my end, but not to the person on the other end. Is there a way to do this? What am I missing?

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  • Vista 64-bit, DISK BOOT FAILURE

    - by weka
    So I have this Acer Aspire AX3200-U3600A with Windows Vista (64-bit). Every night I turn it off and turn it back on in the morning. Around three weeks ago, I did a fresh factory reimage. Good as new. Then around two days ago, when I turned it on, I noticed it was running extremly slow. As in, it would often freeze up while I had multiple applications open when it usually never froze up. So I decided to restart my computer. Big mistake. My computer froze right after I clicked shut-down. I waited a while. Nothing. Waited some minutes. Nope. I decided to shut it down by pressing the power button. Here is where the problems begin. When I turned it back on, I saw the Windows logo and loading bar and then it loaded to black. I turned it off again forcefully by power button and then once more... then I got: AMD Data Change... Update New Data to DMI! then later the screen clears and I get: AHCI Option ROM BIOS Revision: 01.05.92 Date: 02-19-2008 Copyright (c) 2006-2008 Phoenix Technologies, LTD Port 01: Reset Port Error!! Port 02: then the screen clears again but this time, this loads from the bottom: Nvidia Boot Agent 249.0542 (copyright stuff... blah blah) PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable. PXE-M0F: Exiting Nvidia Boot Agent DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER. So I try to go into Safe Mode. Well, first of all it doesn't load as fast. After it loads disk.sys from windows/drivers, it will wait a while (2-3 mins) THEN load. However it loads the Acer eRecovery Management Tool. I have three options: Reset computer to factory default, Restore computer from user's backup, or Exit. However, the top two options are gray and disabled where as the Exit is in blue and definitely clickable. So obviously safe mode is not there... A strong thing to note: In the beginning when all of this started, I did a Boot Windows Normal from pressing f8 and I got to my desktop! It logged me in. I could see the icons on my files. However my desktop was extremely slow as in when I clicked on the Start menu, it would wait a while, then load up the menu with JUST the gradient, no text or icons... so as you can see... it saw my HDD? Also, before anyone says, I have NO USB plugged in. My mouse and keyboard are not USB inputs, I assure you. And this came without a recovery CD AND when I went in BIOS, to change the BOOT ORDER, I did NOT see a CD-ROM option. And when I tried pressing ALT+F10 to get into Acer eRecovery Management, the top two options were disabled as well. But sometimes on start-up, I get: Windows has encountered a problem communicating with a device connected to your computer. This error can be caused by unplugging a removable storage device such as an external USB drive while the device is in use, or by faulty hardware such as a hard drive or CD-ROM drive that is failing. Make sure any removeable storage is properly connected and then restart your computer. If you continue to receive this error message, contact the hardware manufacturer. Status: 0xc00000e9 Info: An unexpected I/O error has occured. Then I tried Last Known Good Configuration Settings, that gives me a BSOD. What should I do/

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  • How to install Delorme StreetAtlas (any version) + GPS inside VirtualBox VM?

    - by hotei
    When I try to run the install program I get a popup message that says the installer program is not a valid executable. Background: I want a GPS with maps on my laptop running Ubuntu 10.4LTS. Unfortunately I can't find a decent native Linux GPS solution with 50 state US street level coverage. I have VirtualBox VMs available for WinXP and Win7 (among others). The VMs work fine with MicroSoft Streets and Trips (2010) and MapNGo 5 (a very! old Delorme product), but while both these products support GPS, they don't support the Earthmate LT-40 USB GPS I already have. I've got pretty much every Delorme Street Atlas they've released in the last decade and none of them will install in a VM. Any help would be much appreciated. Clarification: I've installed the Delorme products from these CDs before and the disks are fine - as long as installation is done on a "physical" machine. Added: I've tried install from an iso as well as the real CD. No difference in result (setup.exe is not a valid executable) The WinXP is SP-2 (held back on purpose at this point - I'll snapshot and fork a later SP to test). The Win2K is SP-6a. Win7(32) VM is whatever updates came out last week. The USB setup is working at least to the point where the GPS device is active in the device list (has an x in the box). At this point its not relevant because the program that needs to read it can't even be installed. Added 9-19: Added wine as harrymc suggested. Initial result was no change. Here's wines error message. The file '/media/Disk1/setup.exe' is not marked as executable. If this was downloaded or copied form an untrusted source, it may be dangerous to run. For more details, read about the executable bit. At first I thought the execute bit was the problem, but looking at several other windows CDs I see that the execute bit is not set on their exe files (which install to VM without error). Still it was worth a shot so I copied the StreetAtlas 9 DVD to my hard disk, changed the on-disk exe files to have the execute bit set and tried to install again. This time the install via wine got me through the installation process. When I start the program it bombs immediately, so we haven't made much real progress so far. I very much prefer the VM solution to wine, so I'm going back to that for now. To recap the VM situation, using an updated XP with SP3 and all recommended hotfixes: StreetAtlas 2009 USA fails with "not marked as executable". StreetAtlas 2007 USA fails with "not marked as executable". StreetAtlas 9 (copyright 2001) fails with "not marked as executable". SteeetAtlas (copyright 1991) fails with "not marked as executable" Delorme Topo 4 (copyright 2002) fails with "not marked as executable". Just about ready to give up. So I switched from XP VM to Win7 VM and tried StreetAtlas 2009 again. This time it installs. Earthmate USB GPS works. WTH? I feel like the monkey who just wrote a line of Shakespear. I'm smiling because it worked, but I have no clue why. I'm awarding the bounty to harrymc because wine did give some useful insight into the problem and a +1 to goyiux as thanks for helping.

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  • No Sound on Debian

    - by danielson
    I've been dabbing around with LinuxMint Debian and i'm not getting any sound. Have removed Pulse = still no sound. Re-installed it, still no sound. Basically the only sound i get is when i perform the test with the Logitech headset. Otherwise, no sound anywhere. Have also tried an experimental version of LM Debian KDE but same story. Anyone else in a similar predicament? Here are my laptop's specs on Windows 7 .32bit : https://www.dropbox.com/s/7j0l0odzn07vq0o/Screenshot%20-%20System%20Info.jpg

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  • Hard drive after PCB swap strange stuff

    - by ramyy
    I’ve done a PCB swap to my HDD. The HDD model is: WD6400AAKS-00A7B2. The original PCB PN matches the new one (first three letter groups), though the cache mismatches (16MB original, 8MB new). The Hardware store that made the swap told me it was hard to do the swap, they have done firmware adaptation. I can see that this firmware version does not match the original, (01.03B01 original, 05.04E05 new). Still I can see that the serial number and model of the drive is correct, the hard drive appeared normal in the BIOS, all the partitions show and everything appears normal. I have encountered three things though, I have left the drive non operated for 2-3 weeks after the swap to avoid corrupting the data or anything else the new PCB might cause, until I buy a new drive and backup the data. I got a drive, and when I powered the old drive manually (I have a laptop, I use a normal desktop power supply and a USB/SATA connector), I heard the motor start and I could hear ticking as if the motor’s somehow struggling to start, and then the motor sound starts again then the ticking, and so on.. I tried powering again it happened again. The third time it started normally and I could see everything normally. I took the chance and copied all the data over to the new drive. When I was done, I powered off the drive (after more than 25 hours of continuous operation), tried to power it up again and it did so normally, and so are the times I powered it up later; but I got very suspicious now. What could be the problem here? And what happened new, it used to power normally after the swap directly? The second thing that happened is that I found size differences with some files; some include movies, songs, (.iso) files for games, and programs. I could find the size is the same, but size on disk is a little more on the new drive for these files. . I’ve tried some of those files (with size differences) they worked fine. They are not too much but still make you suspicious of the integrity of the data copied; one cannot try if all files are working for about (580 GB) worth of data. I tried copying these files on the same partition they exist of the old drive; they are the same in size as when copied to the new drive (allocation unit size not the issue). I took an image of a partition (sector by sector including empty ones) and when I explore it, these file sizes are equal to the original (old drive); I copy them anywhere else their size on disk, increases, i.e becomes equal to the ones I copy from the old drive itself anywhere. Why the size difference and can one trust the integrity of the data?? The third thing is that when I connect my new external USB HDD, the partitions of the old HDD unmount and then mount again. Connected are: (USB mouse + Old HDD) then external HDD. Why that happens?? Considering the following: I compared the SMART reports from after the swap directly and after the copying, no error readings or reallocated sectors where reported. Here they are: http://www.image-share.com/ijpg-1939-219.html I later ran both WD data life guard tests and they came out passed. I’m worried for this drive since I must be sure the data is fine and safe on the new one, and I will consider it backup for the new one, since you can’t trust anything anymore. I hope you can forgive me for the length of the post, but couldn’t ignore any of the details, this hard drive contains very important data to me and I have to deal with the situation with great care.

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  • Reducing volume of an audio device on windows 7

    - by bdonlan
    I have a USB headset with a very loud amplifier, but low granularity in its gain control. In order to get comfortable audio, I have to reduce the individual application levels in the mixer to '1', and the master mixer to around '10'. Of course, new applications start out at '10', and immediately blast out my ears. Is there a way to add a filter to cut down the volume some so I can get better control of it? That is, reduce the volume of '100' so I can work within a reasonable range.

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  • How to get headphones and speakers working at the same time?

    - by Borek
    I have a Gigabyte P55-UD3 motherboard which comes with a Realtek sound card and audio header for the front panel. My headset is permanently connected to the front panel (mic in, headphones in) and I also have speakers connected at the rear of the computer. What I want to achieve is that both the headphones and the speakers work at the same time. On my old PC with Realtek, I was able to do this by clicking "Device advanced settings" in the Realtek HD Audio Manager and then clicking "Make front and rear output devices playback two different audio streams simultaneously" and then doing some reassigning of front/rear settings in the Realtek Audio Manager (can't remember the details). But that doesn't seem to be working now - either the speakers play sounds or the headphones, not both at the same time. To pose the question differently, Windows plays the sounds on the "default device". I'd like to make both headphones and the speakers kind of like the default devices.

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  • How to record audio in Windows Server 2008 Web SP2?

    - by Aurelio De Rosa
    I face into this problem and before ask here I've searched and read a lot of question but no-one seems to fit to my problem. I have a server running Windows Server 2008 Web with the SP2 and a headset attached to it using audio jack. The server has audio driver since I can listen audio. This OS does not came with the built-in audio record tool (the one I have in Windows 7). I can access physically and remotely (using RDC) to this server with administration permission. My local pc has Windows 7 if it can help. All I want to do is to know if it's possible and how to record audio form the microphone (of the server) and store that file in the server from remote connection. I tried to install several software on the server but everyone fails with a different issues (missing DLL which if I put in the system the error doesn't go away).

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  • The How-To Geek Holiday Gift Guide (Geeky Stuff We Like)

    - by The Geek
    Welcome to the very first How-To Geek Holiday Gift Guide, where we’ve put together a list of our absolute favorites to help you weed through all of the junk out there to pick the perfect gift for anybody. Though really, it’s just a list of the geeky stuff we want. We’ve got a whole range of items on the list, from cheaper gifts that most anybody can afford, to the really expensive stuff that we’re pretty sure nobody is giving us. Stocking Stuffers Here’s a couple of ideas for items that won’t break the bank. LED Keychain Micro-Light   Magcraft 1/8-Inch Rare Earth Cube Magnets Best little LED keychain light around. If they don’t need the penknife of the above item this is the perfect gift. I give them out by the handfuls and nobody ever says anything but good things about them. I’ve got ones that are years old and still running on the same battery.  Price: $8   Geeks cannot resist magnets. Jason bought this pack for his fridge because he was sick of big clunky magnets… these things are amazing. One tiny magnet, smaller than an Altoid mint, can practically hold a clipboard right to the fridge. Amazing. I spend more time playing with them on the counter than I do actually hanging stuff.  Price: $10 Lots of Geeky Mugs   Astronomy Powerful Green Laser Pointer There’s loads of fun, geeky mugs you can find on Amazon or anywhere else—and they are great choices for the geek who loves their coffee. You can get the Caffeine mug pictured here, or go with an Atari one, Canon Lens, or the Aperture mug based on Portal. Your choice. Price: $7   No, it’s not a light saber, but it’s nearly bright enough to be one—you can illuminate low flying clouds at night or just blind some aliens on your day off. All that for an extremely low price. Loads of fun. Price: $15       Geeky TV Shows and Books Sometimes you just want to relax and enjoy a some TV or a good book. Here’s a few choices. The IT Crowd Fourth Season   Doctor Who, Complete Fifth Series Ridiculous, funny show about nerds in the IT department, loved by almost all the geeks here at HTG. Justin even makes this required watching for new hires in his office so they’ll get his jokes. You can pre-order the fourth season, or pick up seasons one, two, or three for even cheaper. Price: $13   It doesn’t get any more nerdy than Eric’s pick, the fifth all-new series of Doctor Who, where the Daleks are hatching a new master plan from the heart of war-torn London. There’s also alien vampires, humanoid reptiles, and a lot more. Price: $52 Battlestar Galactica Complete Series   MAKE: Electronics: Learning Through Discovery Watch the epic fight to save the human race by finding the fabled planet Earth while being hunted by the robotic Cylons. You can grab the entire series on DVD or Blu-ray, or get the seasons individually. This isn’t your average sci-fi TV show. Price: $150 for Blu-ray.   Want to learn the fundamentals of electronics in a fun, hands-on way? The Make:Electronics book helps you build the circuits and learn how it all works—as if you had any more time between all that registry hacking and loading software on your new PC. Price: $21       Geeky Gadgets for the Gadget-Loving Geek Here’s a few of the items on our gadget list, though lets be honest: geeks are going to love almost any gadget, especially shiny new ones. Klipsch Image S4i Premium Noise-Isolating Headset with 3-Button Apple Control   GP2X Caanoo MAME/Console Emulator If you’re a real music geek looking for some serious quality in the headset for your iPhone or iPod, this is the pair that Alex recommends. They aren’t terribly cheap, but you can get the less expensive S3 earphones instead if you prefer. Price: $50-100   Eric says: “As an owner of an older version, I can say the GP2X is one of my favorite gadgets ever. Touted a “Retro Emulation Juggernaut,” GP2X runs Linux and may be the only open source software console available. Sounds too good to be true, but isn’t.” Price: $150 Roku XDS Streaming Player 1080p   Western Digital WD TV Live Plus HD Media Player If you do a lot of streaming over Netflix, Hulu Plus, Amazon’s Video on Demand, Pandora, and others, the Roku box is a great choice to get your content on your TV without paying a lot of money.  It’s also got Wireless-N built in, and it supports full 1080P HD. Price: $99   If you’ve got a home media collection sitting on a hard drive or a network server, the Western Digital box is probably the cheapest way to get that content on your TV, and it even supports Netflix streaming too. It’ll play loads of formats in full HD quality. Price: $99 Fujitsu ScanSnap S300 Color Mobile Scanner   Doxie, the amazing scanner for documents Trevor said: “This wonderful little scanner has become absolutely essential to me. My desk used to just be a gigantic pile of papers that I didn’t need at the moment, but couldn’t throw away ‘just in case.’ Now, every few weeks, I’ll run that paper pile through this and then happily shred the originals!” Price: $300   If you don’t scan quite as often and are looking for a budget scanner you can throw into your bag, or toss into a drawer in your desk, the Doxie scanner is a great alternative that I’ve been using for a while. It’s half the price, and while it’s not as full-featured as the Fujitsu, it might be a better choice for the very casual user. Price: $150       (Expensive) Gadgets Almost Anybody Will Love If you’re not sure that one of the more geeky presents is gonna work, here’s some gadgets that just about anybody is going to love, especially if they don’t have one already. Of course, some of these are a bit on the expensive side—but it’s a wish list, right? Amazon Kindle       The Kindle weighs less than a paperback book, the screen is amazing and easy on the eyes, and get ready for the kicker: the battery lasts at least a month. We aren’t kidding, either—it really lasts that long. If you don’t feel like spending money for books, you can use it to read PDFs, and if you want to get really geeky, you can hack it for custom screensavers. Price: $139 iPod Touch or iPad       You can’t go wrong with either of these presents—the iPod Touch can do almost everything the iPhone can do, including games, apps, and music, and it has the same Retina display as the iPhone, HD video recording, and a front-facing camera so you can use FaceTime. Price: $229+, depending on model. The iPad is a great tablet for playing games, browsing the web, or just using on your coffee table for guests. It’s well worth buying one—but if you’re buying for yourself, keep in mind that the iPad 2 is probably coming out in 3 months. Price: $500+ MacBook Air  The MacBook Air comes in 11” or 13” versions, and it’s an amazing little machine. It’s lightweight, the battery lasts nearly forever, and it resumes from sleep almost instantly. Since it uses an SSD drive instead of a hard drive, you’re barely going to notice any speed problems for general use. So if you’ve got a lot of money to blow, this is a killer gift. Price: $999 and up. Stuck with No Idea for a Present? Gift Cards! Yeah, you’re not going to win any “thoughtful present” awards with these, but you might just give somebody what they really want—the new Angry Birds HD for their iPad, Cut the Rope, or anything else they want. ITunes Gift Card   Amazon.com Gift Card Somebody in your circle getting a new iPod, iPhone, or iPad? You can get them an iTunes gift card, which they can use to buy music, games or apps. Yep, this way you can gift them a copy of Angry Birds if they don’t already have it. Or even Cut the Rope.   No clue what to get somebody on your list? Amazon gift cards let them buy pretty much anything they want, from organic weirdberries to big screen TVs. Yeah, it’s not as thoughtful as getting them a nice present, but look at the bright side: maybe they’ll get you an Amazon gift card and it’ll balance out. That’s the highlights from our lists—got anything else to add? Share your geeky gift ideas in the comments. Latest Features How-To Geek ETC The How-To Geek Holiday Gift Guide (Geeky Stuff We Like) LCD? LED? Plasma? 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  • Geek it Up

    - by BuckWoody
    I’ve run into a couple of kinds of folks in IT. Some really like technology a lot – a whole lot –and others treat it more as a job. For those of you in the second camp, you can go back to your drab, meaningless jobs – this post is for the first group. I’m a geek. Not a little bit of a geek, a really big one. I love technology, I get excited about science and electronics in general, and I read math books when I don’t have to. Yes, I have a Star Trek item or two around the house. My daughter is fluent in both Monty Python AND Serenity. I totally admit it. So if you’re like me (OK, maybe a little less geeky than that), then go for it. Put those toys in your cubicle, wear your fan shirt, but most of all, geek up your tools. No, this isn’t an April Fool’s post – I really mean it. I’ve noticed that when I get the larger monitor, better mouse, cooler keyboard, I LIKE coming to work. It’s a way to reward yourself – I’ve even found that it makes work easier if I have the kind of things I enjoy around to work with. So buy that old “clicky” IBM keyboard, get three monitors, and buy a nice headset so that you can set all of your sounds to Monty Python WAV’s. And get to work. Share this post: email it! | bookmark it! | digg it! | reddit! | kick it! | live it!

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  • How I Record Screencasts

    - by Daniel Moth
    I get this asked a lot so here is my brain dump on the topic. What A screencast is just a demo that you present to yourself while recording the screen. As such, my advice for clearing your screen for demo purposes and setting up Visual Studio still applies here (adjusting for the fact I wrote those blog posts when I was running Vista and VS2008, not Windows 8 and VS2012). To see examples of screencasts, watch any of my screencasts on channel9. Why If you are a technical presenter, think of when you get best reactions from a developer audience in your sessions: when you are doing demos, of course. Imagine if you could package those alone and share them with folks to watch over and over? If you have ever gone through a tutorial trying to recreate steps to explore a feature, think how much more helpful it would be if you could watch a video and follow along. Think of how many folks you "touch" with a conference presentation, and how many more you can reach with an online shorter recording of the demo. If you invest so much of your time for the first type of activity, isn't the second type of activity also worth an investment? Fact: If you are able to record a screencast of a demo, you will be much better prepared to deliver it in person. In fact lately I will force myself to make a screencast of any demo I need to present live at an upcoming event. It is also a great backup - if for whatever reason something fails (software, network, etc) during an attempt of a live demo, you can just play the recorded video for the live audience. There are other reasons (e.g. internal sharing of the latest implemented feature) but the context above is the one within which I create most of my screencasts. Software & Hardware I use Camtasia from Tech Smith, version 7.1.1. Microsoft has a variety of options for capturing the screen to video, but I have been using this software for so long now that I have not invested time to explore alternatives… I also use whatever cheapo headset is near me, but sometimes I get some complaints from some folks about the audio so now I try to remember to use "the good headset". I do not use a web camera as I am not a huge fan of PIP. Preparation First you have to know your technology and demo. Once you think you know it, write down the outline and major steps of the demo. Keep it short 5-20 minutes max. I break that rule sometimes but try not to. The longer the video is the more chances that people will not have the patience to sit through it and the larger the download wmv file ends up being. Run your demo a few times, timing yourself each time to ensure that you have the planned timing correct, but also to make sure that you are comfortable with what you are going to demo. Unlike with a live audience, there is no live reaction/feedback to steer you, so it can be a bit unnerving at first. It can also lead you to babble too much, so try extra hard to be succinct when demoing/screencasting on your own. TIP: Before recording, hide your desktop/taskbar clock if it is showing. Recording To record you start the Camtasia Recorder tool Configure the settings thought the menus Capture menu to choose custom size or full screen. I try to use full screen and remember to lower the resolution of your screen to as low as possible, e.g. 1024x768 or 1360x768 or something like that. From the Tools -> Options dialog you can choose to record audio and the volume level. Effects menu I typically leave untouched but you should explore and experiment to your liking, e.g. how the mouse pointer is captured, and whether there should be a delay for the recording when you start it. Once you've configured these settings, typically you just launch this tool and hit the F9 key to start recording. TIP: As you record, if you ever start to "lose your way" hit F9 again to pause recording, regroup your thoughts and flow, and then hit F9 again to resume. Finally, hit F10 to stop recording. At that point the video starts playing for you in the recorder. This is where you can preview the video to see that you are happy with it before saving. If you are happy, hit the Save As menu to choose where you want to save the video.     TIP: If you've really lost your way to the extent where you'll need to do some editing, hit F10 to stop recording, save the video and then record some more - you'll be able to stitch the videos together later and this will make it easier for you to delete the parts where you messed up. TIP: Before you commit to recording the whole demo, every time you should record 5 seconds and preview them to ensure that you are capturing the screen the way you want to and that your audio is still correctly configured and at the right level. Trust me, you do not want to be recording 15 minutes only to find out that you messed up on the configuration somewhere. Editing To edit the video you launch another Camtasia app, the Camtasia Studio. File->New Project. File->Save Project and choose location. File->Import Media and choose the video(s) you saved earlier. These adds them to the area at the top/middle but not at the timeline at the bottom. Right click on the video and choose Add to timeline. It will prompt you for the Editing dimensions and I always choose Recording Dimensions. Do whatever edits you want to do for this video, then add the next video if you have one to stitch and repeat. In terms of edits there are many options. The simplest is to do nothing, which is the option I did when I first starting doing these in 2006. Nowadays, I typically cut out pieces that I don't like and also lower/mute the audio in other areas and also speed up the video in some areas. A full tutorial on how to do this is beyond the scope of this blog post, but your starting point is to select portions on the timeline and then open the Edit menu at the very top (tip: the context menu doesn't have all options). You can spend hours editing a recording, so don’t lose track of time! When you are done editing, save again, and you are now ready to Produce. Producing Production is specific to where you will publish. I've only ever published on channel9, so for that I do the following File -> Produce and share. This opens a wizard dialog In the dropdown choose Custom production settings Hit Next and then choose WMV Hit Next and keep the default of Camtasia Studio Best Quality and File Size (recommended) Hit Next and choose Editing dimensions video size Hit Next, hit Options and you get a dialog. Enter a Title for the project tab and then on the author tab enter the Creator and Homepage. Hit OK Hit Next. Hit Next again. Enter a video file name in the Production name textbox and then hit Finish. Now do other stuff while you wait for the video to be produced and you hear it playing. After the video is produced watch it to ensure it was produced correctly (e.g. sometimes you get mouse issues) and then you are ready for publishing it. Publishing Follow the instructions of the place where you are going to publish. If you are MSFT internal and want to choose channel9 then contact those folks so they can share their instructions (if you don't know who they are ping me and I'll connect you but they are easy to find in the GAL). For me this involves using a tool to point to the video, choosing a file name (again), choosing an image from the video to display when it is not playing, choosing what output formats I want, and then later on a webpage adding tags, adding a description, and adding a title. That’s all folks, have fun! Comments about this post by Daniel Moth welcome at the original blog.

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