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  • Laptop recommendation - Portable Gaming

    - by ivan
    So, I'm looking for a new laptop (http://superuser.com/questions/116869/toshiba-satellite-u500-totally-damaged-lcd). My requirements for a new Laptop are: -good keyboard(illuminated) and touchpad (multi-media keys included, should be better than toshiba u500) -good graphics card, with system rating of 6.3 and up for gaming graphics (my Toshiba U500 has 6.3). I used to run some heavy games on my Toshiba U500 with ATI Mobility Radeon 4570 with 512 mb VRAM but the framerates are not that nice on high settings. -Decent CPU but I think all new Core i3, i5, i7 can run most of recent resource intensive games (My Toshiba U500 has a Core 2 Duo T6500, 2.13 Ghz) I'm also looking for a long-term reliability, good sound quality, lots of fast RAM of-course(4GB DDR3 - 1066Mhz and up) and a clear looking LED screen with a decent resolution. (I can accomodate a laptop with screen size of 13-inch upto 15.6 inch, and I don't want it to be heavy because I might be taking it outdoors) I'm actually impressed when I saw HP Pavilion DV6t but the screen resolution seems to be a little too small for 15.6 inch. The Pavilion DV3 are also good but I want to know if there other options. Looking for some opinions.. Thanks. :D

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  • Acer Aspire One (mini) mfgd 9/03 locks up also when plugged in

    - by LAURIE ANN
    My problem is almost the same as the Toshiba user (Toshiba A205-5804 freezes when plugged in): Well I have a Toshiba A205-5804 and the problem is that the screen freezes anytime I plug the pc into the external power supply, not as most of the computers having the same issue, my computer DOES freeze in safe mode, and I really can't bear this problem for much longer... It's not an overheat problem, the computer is not getting hot or anything related, I've tried already to change the AC adapter, to boot only with AC and no battery, and also all of these suggestions: The only difference in my case is: I can be using the battery and when it runs down, I can just close the lid and the system goes into hibernation mode. I then plug it in and let it charge. When I think it's finally charged, I can UNPLUG it, open the lid and all is running fine on the battery again. Note: the system was NOT shut down and it still runs as long as I remove the power plug before opening the lid. I have ALL the same issues as the other Toshiba user, also. I was a tech for 9 yrs in my own business and this one has not only stumped me, but anyone I have asked has never heard of this problem. Every repair center wants to charge me for diagnosis, even is they cannot fix it. I would really like to run this system along side of my new Acer Aspire 17" laptop as I need it to finish my grad school work. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanx, Laurie Ann

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  • Why won't 2GB of ram across 3 of 4 slots work on my motherboard (max 2GB)?

    - by Andrew
    My desktop is an old home-built machine circa 200[5-6] running Ubuntu 11.10 (but this is not relevant because I'm reading available ram from BIOS loading screen), with an ASUS P5GPL motherboard, not X or X-SE - it has four slots. I'm mainly a laptop person, but keep this around for running a server from if needed, backing up to, seeding Ubuntu to people from, etc… It has four (DDR) ram slots, two black and two blue, in the order black-blue-black-blue (I will call them D, C, B, and A, respectively) with some space in the middle. The blue ones are the closest to the processor. I used to have two 512MB chips in the two blue slots. I just got a 1GB chip and plugged it into one of the black slots; my system didn't recognize it. I messed around and discovered that it will not recognize chips in many positions, and I couldn't get it to recognize all three of these chips at the same time. In particular, if I put the 512MB chips in A and B it would only use 1, but AC, AD, BD, and CD worked. I didn't try BC, I believe. Only some of these continue to work when I switch the 1GB chip into one of these positions. Can I have some advice as to how to position these chips to get all 2GB used? How about if I get another 1GB chip - where should I put the two? And what about the RAM maximum Crucial says? Can I go above 2GB, if I get another 1GB chip? Right now, I have a 512MB chip in A and the 1GB chip in C. EDIT: I read some other posts and tried dmidecode in Ubuntu to clarify the max memory question, that wasn't a major part anyways. It says my max memory module size is 1024M (OK) and my max memory size is 4096M (doesn't agree with Crucial OR the Asus web site, maybe it will only work while in Linux and BIOS won't OK it?).

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  • Is it possible to use a dual processor computer as your desktop?

    - by Ivo
    I've seen some people suggesting to get a motherboard that supports two processors and stick two Xeon Nehalem processors in it. Could you use this system as a desktop PC or is this useless or even impossible? It's more hypothetical question if Windows 7 would support such a set-up. I know you could just take an i7, but wouldn't two of those processors be a whole lot more awesome? Like the previous generation Skulltrails? The idea would be to have a motherboard like this ASUS Z8NA-D6C Dual LGA 1366 Intel 5500 ATX and two Xeons (since I don't think i7's could be used) Intel Xeon E5405 Harpertown to run something like Windows 7 Ultimate.

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  • To make use of 5.1 sound do i need a 5.1 headphone/speaker?

    - by Fellknight
    I recently bought a Toshiba X500 laptop with decent speakers & sound card in it. I want to use headphones but im unsure if they also need to have the same audio channels as the sound card (5.1 in this case). Also The laptop itself only has the two standard sound ports - headphones and microphone, does 5.1 headphones require a special kind of connection?.

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  • USB wiped itself but still showing that its full?

    - by Brian Takan
    My Data saved from laptop to usb, and then I pulled it out, then something popped up on the screen saying that it was full and that I needed to delete stuff, so I put the USB back in and went to computer and all to go into it and when I did it isn't showing anything on the usb but when I go to computer it still shows that the usb is full. Does anybody know what is going on ? How can I get my data again?

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  • Xeon X5550 vs Six-core Opteron for database server

    - by gregmac
    I'm specing out a database server, and the price works out to be reasonably close between an Intel X5550 Quad-core and an AMD 2425HE (2.1Ghz) Six-core Opteron. I've been looking for some comparisons between the two, but the only thing useful I've found is an AnandTech Review of the 2435 which compares it to Intel Xeons, but concludes they both have their place. My load is MS SQL Server 2008, with an OLTP database that has about an equal amount of reading/writing (and it's a reasonably heavy load). So my question is, what is going to work better in this situation, assuming the drives are the same: Xeon X5550, with 16GB 1333Mhz RAM (Dell R510) or an Opteron 2425HE (2.1Ghz) or 2439SE (2.8Ghz) with 16GB of 800Mhz RAM? (Dell 2970) Note: the 2439 adds $500, but the overall pricing works out that it's not that much more than the R510. Using the 2425HE, the Dell 2970 server is slightly less than the similarly-equipped R510). If it adds a decent amount of performance, it's worthwhile to go faster. (single CPU, in both cases).

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  • RAID Array performance on an HP Proliant ML350 G5 Smart Array E200i

    - by Nate Pinchot
    We have a client who is complaining about performance of an application which utilizes an MS SQL database. They do not believe the performance issues are the fault of the application itself. The Smart Array E200i RAID controller has 128MB cache and we have the cache set to 75% read/25% write. The disk array set to enable write caching. Recently we ran a disk performance test using SQLIO based on this guide. We used a 10 GB file for the test found that the average sequential read rate was ~60 MB/sec (megabytes/sec) and the average random read rate was ~30 MB/sec. Are these numbers on par for what the server should be performing? Better than on par? Horrible? Amazing?

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  • No space left on device with encrypted disk that takes all space

    - by Yosef
    I use Ubuntu 11.04. There's no space left on device. I have encrypted the disk that takes up space (maybe it's good to disable it, but I don't know how). In shell, I get this message: No space left on device I run df -I: Filesystem Inodes IUsed IFree IUse% Mounted on /dev/sda1 3055616 602499 2453117 20% / none 210161 890 209271 1% /dev none 214789 8 214781 1% /dev/shm none 214789 53 214736 1% /var/run none 214789 3 214786 1% /var/lock /home/myuser/.Private 3055616 602499 2453117 20% /home/myuser df -I Edit: When I run only df: Filesystem 1K-blocks Used Available Use% Mounted on /dev/sda1 48060296 45618928 0 100% / none 1538340 684 1537656 1% /dev none 1547596 808 1546788 1% /dev/shm none 1547596 104 1547492 1% /var/run none 1547596 0 1547596 0% /var/lock /home/myuser/.Private 48060296 45618928 0 100% /home/myuser Edit: I thinking about few solution but I don't know which better and how exactly to do them: to enlarge partition size (I cant install gparted - no more disk space) remove encryption of partition - I really not need that

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  • Block diagram containing computer buses,motherboard..

    - by learnerforever
    Hi all, I am trying to understand computer architecture. In particular: - Physical view i.e. what all is packed inside the motherboard and what all outside - Conceptual view. how processor,memory,peripherals are connected. I am getting confused among various buses like local bus,PCI bus, SCSI bus,ISA bus,USB bus. I am looking for block diagrams. How is the USB port connected to processor ultimately? through PCI bus etc? Why do we have so many buses? What was it like before SCSI/IDE came? Does the diagram at : http://www.vaughns-1-pagers.com/computer/pc-block-diagram.htm look correct? It shows no connection between PCI bus and SCSI bus. Is that correct? I would greatly appreciate any other link especially of block diagrams/anatomy and not just textual writeup. Thanks,

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  • System shuts down immediately after few sconds

    - by Anil
    I have a computer with following specification and was working fine after re-installing the system and refitting sink fan unit. Recently it shuts down automatically after a few seconds. I checked PSU by shorting pin no.s 13 & 14 as well as 14 & 15. It worked well means the PSU fan moves. But I never checked the voltages at different wires. I refitted the heat sink fan by applying thermal paste. but it behaved the same. Again I refitted the Heat Sink Fan, then it worked for 2 minutes and again shut down. Now it shuts down immediately after switching on. Mother board : M26GTM-3VP CPU : AMD athlon PSU : 450 watt Can anyone help?

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  • iBook G4 has black screen on boot

    - by Jonathan Patt
    I have an old iBook G4 (A1054, 1.2 GHz) which has issues when it loses power or is shut off. If the battery drains—which happens quickly, as its remaining capacity is very low—it enters some sort of weird mode where it's not really awake (the screen is black, can't do anything) but it has no pulsing light indicating it's asleep either. The only way to exit this mode is to hold down the power button for ten seconds until it shuts off, and attempt rebooting it. Almost always, however, it makes the sound of the optical drive starting up, and then doesn't continue past that point. The screen doesn't come on, and things like resetting PRAM don't work. Occasionally a fan comes on loudly for a second or two. This sometimes seems to correspond with my pressing down on the rear-right casing, above the power jack. In the past, shutting it off, disconnecting it from power, removing the battery and waiting for 30 minutes would do the trick, but this time I have done that several times, letting it sit for up to several hours before retrying, to no avail. Any ideas?

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  • macbook pro for developer

    - by Michael Ellick Ang
    Which of the following choices would be more beneficial to developers ? 13 inch Macbook Pro, Core 2 Duo, 4 GB Memory, 128 GB SSD - $1550 - Faster Storage 13 inch Macbook Pro, Core 2 Duo, 8 GB Memory, 250 GB HD - $1600 - More Memory 15 inch Macbook Pro, Core i5, 4 GB Memory, 320 GB HD - $1800 - Better CPU Thanks.

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  • How to wipe an IPod with DBAN

    - by Matt Powers
    I'm looking to use a utility such as Darik's Boot And Nuke (www.dban.org) to wipe my iPod (classic fifth generation) so I can sell it on Ebay (without having to worry about my data being recovered.) Any suggestions on how to do this?

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  • Computer and internet use on a boat?

    - by dlamblin
    Let's assume that I seriously would like to be able to use my computer as easily and as carefreely while on a boat as I do while at home. In short, if I were on a boat for extended periods, such as two weeks at a time and occasionally over a few days out of port (this would be a 2 person sailing vessel), what would my options be for power, durability, and of course, internet access? I want more than just email, as I will likely keep doing a tad of development, and will be looking at google earth from time to time. I am already assuming that we're going with some kind of laptop, maybe even a macbook pro 12". I personally feel that netbooks are underpowered. And the last computer that I got a boat-friendly rating for was a ZX Spectrum, which was before the internet, and was likely due to it's 12vdc-happiness.

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  • Does HDMI cable "quality" actually affect transmission?

    - by TheDeeno
    I really don't want to pay a ridiculous price for a "name brand" HDMI cable if it doesn't really do anything for me. I'm just curious: now that most transmission is digital (packetized) is there such a thing as a "quality" cable? I suspect that if the cable works at all, I'm safe saying I have a quality connection. I just want to double check. Some of these reviewers complain that generic cables "create noise, lack bandwidth, can't handle X, etc". I'm skeptical of these reviews. If the logic for HDMI cables and quality can be applied to cables in general, please elaborate on that as well.

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  • Recommend a wireless PCI card for Windows 7

    - by Dan
    I have a crummy RT2500-based 11g card which does work in Win7 with the Vista driver (3.2.0.0) but it dies about every two hours or so. Googling around has led me to conclude that Ralink drivers are basically borked, and that I need something else for a stable connection. Can anyone recommend a suitable wireless adapter? It needs to be: 802.11g - draft-N nice but not at all essential. PCI - I already have far more USB devices than can possibly be good for me. Very reliable. Money isn't an object within reason. All input gratefully received!

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  • Keyboards for kiosk/outdoor/abusive environments?

    - by Justin Scott
    We have a bunch of kiosks deployed into let's just say... abusive environments. The enclosures we had built are touch as nails, and the HP thin client computers are working great. The keyboards that were purchased for the project have been nothing but problems. They're a generic brand direct from a Chinese manufacturer. They're stainless steel with keys mounted from the inside and a trackball, but they've been deployed for only a month and nearly 20% of them are already out of service due to keys sticking, keys not working, trackball problems, water damage, and a variety of other issues. Are there any kiosk keyboards that can take a beating without breaking so easily? Ideally they should be tamper-proof (keys can't be removed), waterproof, lettering should be engraved into the keys, trackball, option for a single mouse button would be nice, and some protection to keep debris out of the keys so they don't stick (sticky cleaners, food debris, etc.). Does such a beast exist? Everything we've looked at is susceptible to easy damage. We need the M1 Abrams Tank of keyboards. Any suggestions?

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  • White Screen of Death

    - by cust0s
    The other night I updated my iTunes to the latest version (through Software Update) when I came to turn on my computer I was greeted with the dreaded white screen of death. I use an early 2008 iMac 24". I've tried the basic things, unplugging/turning off accessories, trying to boot from the install disk, reseting pram, etc, etc. Still no luck and no change what-so-ever. All I've been able to ascertain that my keyboard still works (by ejecting). I should point out that I did recently replace my Hard drive with a Western Digital Black 500GB (though the computer is well out of warrenty) and I'm a little concerned that the problem could be the screen.

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