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  • Fix ACPI DSDT of Amilo Pa 1538

    - by kayahr
    I have a Fujitsu-Siemens Amilo Pa 1538 laptops and installed Ubuntu 10.04 on it (Kernel 2.6.32). Main problem is that the fans of the notebook are always on even when the temperature is low. Another problem is that the display brightness can not be adjusted. Since some years I use Dell laptops and never experienced any ACPI problems so I thought that it is no longer needed to fix ACPI tables but now I have this crap of a laptop and I think I have to do it. Unfortunately I need some help repairing the DSDT. The dsdt.dat and dsdt.dsl of the laptop can be found here: http://www.ailis.de/~k/permdata/20100420/dsdt/ Compiling the DSDT gives the following output: # iasl -sa dsdt.dsl Intel ACPI Component Architecture ASL Optimizing Compiler version 20090521 [Jun 30 2009] Copyright (C) 2000 - 2009 Intel Corporation Supports ACPI Specification Revision 3.0a dsdt.dsl 81: Method (\_WAK, 1, NotSerialized) Warning 1080 - ^ Reserved method must return a value (_WAK) dsdt.dsl 207: Method (_L10, 0, NotSerialized) Warning 1087 - ^ Not all control paths return a value (_L10) dsdt.dsl 2861: Method (NVIF, 3, NotSerialized) Warning 1087 - ^ Not all control paths return a value (NVIF) dsdt.dsl 4551: Store (\_SB.PCI0.LPC0.PMRD (0xFA), Local0) Warning 1099 - Statement is unreachable ^ ASL Input: dsdt.dsl - 4962 lines, 162828 bytes, 2300 keywords AML Output: dsdt.aml - 17627 bytes, 591 named objects, 1709 executable opcodes Compilation complete. 0 Errors, 4 Warnings, 0 Remarks, 519 Optimizations Anyone here with DSDT experience who can help me fixing the DSDT?

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  • Megacli is killing me, any help appreciated

    - by Stefan
    I run a server with 2 drives in raid0 configured through BIOS. I just added 2 more drives using hotplug (the server is dell r610 with RHEL 5.4 64bit) and I would like to configure a separate raid0 partition on these drives. I am getting the following error: /opt/MegaRAID/MegaCli/MegaCli64 -CfgLdAdd r0[32:2, 32:3] -a0 The specified physical disk does not have the appropriate attributes to complete the requested command. Exit Code: 0x26 All the parameters are correct and there is just no reason why this command could not work, see this (fujitsu is current raid, seagate is the new one I want to create): /opt/MegaRAID/MegaCli/MegaCli64 -PDList -aALL | egrep 'Adapter|Enclosure|Slot|Inquiry' Adapter #0 Enclosure Device ID: 32 Slot Number: 0 Enclosure position: 0 Inquiry Data: FUJITSU MBD2147RC D807D0A4PA101174 Enclosure Device ID: 32 Slot Number: 1 Enclosure position: 0 Inquiry Data: FUJITSU MBD2147RC D807D0A4PA10115T Enclosure Device ID: 32 Slot Number: 2 Enclosure position: 0 Inquiry Data: SEAGATE ST9300603SS FS033SE0TF5K Enclosure Device ID: 32 Slot Number: 3 Enclosure position: 0 Inquiry Data: SEAGATE ST9300603SS FS023SE070FK I also tried to set up the drive as hotspare, also some strange error: /opt/MegaRAID/MegaCli/MegaCli64 -PDHSP -Set -physdrv[32:3] -a0 Adapter: 0: Set Physical Drive at EnclId-32 SlotId-3 as Hot Spare Failed. FW error description: The specified device is in a state that doesn't support the requested command. Exit Code: 0x32 As you can see the disk is in Unconfigured, Good state: Enclosure Device ID: 32 Slot Number: 3 Enclosure position: 0 Device Id: 3 Sequence Number: 1 Media Error Count: 0 Other Error Count: 0 Predictive Failure Count: 0 Last Predictive Failure Event Seq Number: 0 PD Type: SAS Raw Size: 279.396 GB [0x22ecb25c Sectors] Non Coerced Size: 278.896 GB [0x22dcb25c Sectors] Coerced Size: 278.875 GB [0x22dc0000 Sectors] Firmware state: Unconfigured(good), Spun Up SAS Address(0): 0x5000c50005cd20b1 SAS Address(1): 0x0 Connected Port Number: 3(path0) Inquiry Data: SEAGATE ST9300603SS FS023SE070FK FDE Capable: Not Capable FDE Enable: Disable Secured: Unsecured Locked: Unlocked Needs EKM Attention: No Foreign State: Foreign Foreign Secure: Drive is not secured by a foreign lock key Device Speed: Unknown Link Speed: Unknown Media Type: Hard Disk Device Drive Temperature :30C (86.00 F)

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  • Overheating computer

    - by Samurai Waffle
    My computer overheats somewhat frequently, usually during intense use. And by intense use I mean browsing the internet while downloading, or gaming. It even overheats on extremely old games though, Master of Orion 2, which was developed for Windows 95. My computer has a Pentium 4 Ghz processor, 2 GB of ram, and is running Windows XP. One of the symptoms it has after overheating, is that it'll turn on immediately afterwards, but won't show any video on my monitor. I usually have to wait at least 5 minutes (mostly at least 10) before I can get it to turn on and show video on my monitor. I also usually have to wiggle around the graphics card a little bit, which is the ASUS A9550 Series with 256 MB. I'm not sure exactly what is causing the computer to overheat. At first I thought it was the video card, but after I noticed it was doing it while playing Master of Orion 2, I'm not so sure, because that game can't be making the video card work all that hard. So how exactly can I pinpoint the problem? Thanks for any help provided. Edit: Okay I downloaded the programs that you specified, and will start benchmarking my system to try and pinpoint what's overheating. What is the temperature range for when it's getting to hot? Also I have an abundant amount of software experience with computers, but unfortunately not to much hardware experience.

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  • "Windows detected a hard drive" issue in Windows 7 x64

    - by Jasiu
    I upgraded to the OCZ-Agility3 120GB from a 60 OCZ Vertex2 SSD. I cloned the drive from the Vertex to the new Agility. Everything seemed to have gone well and have not had any problems. Recently in the passed month I have gotten this error: I downloaded teh OCZToolboxMP and ran the SMART utility and don't see anything wrong: SMART READ DATA ModelNumber : OCZ-AGILITY3 Serial Number : OCZ-Y1945X77438P4NU6 WWN : 5-e8-3a-97 ebea5ba76 Revision: 10 Attributes List 1: SSD Raw Read Error Rate Normalized Rate: 70 total ECC and RAISE errors 5: SSD Retired Block Count Reserve blocks remaining: 100% 9: SSD Power-On Hours Total hours power on: 968 12: SSD Power Cycle Count Count of power on/off cycles: 28 171: SSD Program Fail Count Total number of Flash program operation failures: 0 172: SSD Erase Fail Count Total number of Flash erase operation failures: 0 174: SSD Unexpected power loss count Total number of unexpected power loss: 11 177: SSD Wear Range Delta Delta between most-worn and least-worn Flash blocks: 0 181: SSD Program Fail Count Total number of Flash program operation failures: 0 182: SSD Erase Fail Count Total number of Flash erase operation failures: 0 187: SSD Reported Uncorrectable Errors Uncorrectable RAISE errors reported to the host for all data access: 4145 194: SSD Temperature Monitoring Current: 30 High: 30 Low: 30 195: SSD ECC On-the-fly Count Normalized Rate: 120 196: SSD Reallocation Event Count Total number of reallocated Flash blocks: 100 201: SSD Uncorrectable Soft Read Error Rate Normalized Rate: 120 204: SSD Soft ECC Correction Rate (RAISE) Normalized Rate: 120 230: SSD Life Curve Status Current state of drive operation based upon the Life Curve: 100 231: SSD Life Left Approximate SDD life Remaining: 100% 241: SSD Lifetime writes from host lifetime writes 893 GB 242: SSD Lifetime reads from host lifetime reads 968 GB Does anyone have any ideas of what might be wrong and or how I can go about fixing this? Please let me know if there is other information I can provide. Thanks for your help Windows 7 x64 SP1 AMD Phenom II X4 940 8GB RAM

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  • Laptops with easy heat sink service?

    - by Niten
    Can you recommend a current laptop model with easy heat sink access – or better yet, a removable air intake filter – making it easy to periodically clean out the dust and lint that always packs up in these things? Every laptop I've owned has eventually overheated on account of a clogged heat sink. (I suppose it doesn't help that I have a cat who loves to hang out where I'm working, or that my laptop is almost always running.) One of the things I really love about my current system, a Dell Inspiron 1420n, is how easy it is to service its cooling system: whenever I notice the fan starting to work harder and the CPU temperature climbing higher than it should be, I merely have to unscrew a single panel from the bottom of the machine, clean out the heat sink, and then I'm good for another few months. Which current models of the "business laptop" variety offer similar easy cooling system service? I'm looking for something roughly along the lines of: 14- or 15-inch display Nehalem-based CPU Solid construction – magnesium chassis or better (like the Inspiron) TPM (for BitLocker) ideal, but not mandatory Docking adapter ideal, but not mandatory Good battery life For example, the ThinkPad T410 would have been my top choice, but it seems like it would be a serious chore to service its heat sink. For the current MacBook Pros it looks downright impossible. No matter how nice the laptop is in other respects, it'll be of no use to me when it's overheating. So, any suggestions? Thanks in advance... (I'm constantly surprised that customers and manufacturers don't pay more attention to this feature, at least in the business laptop subcategory. In the last couple months I've fixed two friends' laptops which were also overheating due to clogged cooling systems; clearly I'm not the only one affected by this.)

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  • Why is my Compaq NC8430 laptop so darned HOT ?

    - by Cheeso
    For a long time I've had a Compaq nc8430 laptop. It's nearly 3 years old now. Originally shipped with WinXP, but I installed Vista on it. From the very start it was not a good experience. This thing has one of those "stickpoint" mice, which I like. After a while, I noticed that the computer was generating lots and lots of heat. So much heat, that the stickpoint bumper would melt and disintegrate. Normally I would expect heat if the CPU was working hard, but even when the CPU was idle, the computer was hot. Much too hot to keep on my lap. Turns out this is not an uncommon problem. I installed the HWmonitor tool, and found that the CPU temp was 82C when it was plugged in - pretty darn hot. And because the temp was so high, the fan never turned off, so the laptop was as loud as a jet engine, always. If I unplugged it from A/C power, the screen would dim and the temperature would decrease, and the fan noise would lessen, but still, it was too loud. It's totally unusable. What is the problem?

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  • System fans connected to a Gigabyte Z77-D3H motherboard do not increase in speed

    - by Andrew
    The motherboard (Gigabyte Z77-D3H) controls my 3-pin CPU fan just fine. My system fans are a 3-pin fan (plugged into SYS_FAN1), and a 4-pin fan plugged into SYS_FAN3. All 3 of the system fan headers are 4-pin, but the user manual states that SYS_FAN1 is really a 3-pin header (that it can control the speed of a 3-pin fan) and the 4th pin is just a reserve. All my fans have a max RPM of 2000. Normally, all the fans run around 1000 RPMs when I'm not doing anything intensive. This proves that the motherboard can set the speed. However,when I run Folding@Home and my temperatures increase (around 70C) only the CPU fan increases to around 2000 RPMs. The system fans stay around 1000 RPMs. Through the BIOS I am able to disable the system fan control and the system fans then run at max RPMs (meaning the motherboard was doing something). I've updated the BIOS to the latest version and tried out Speedfan, but neither helped my situation. What I'd like is for the system fans to ramp up their RPMs as needed. Any thoughts? Tl;dr: My system (case) fans, but not my CPU fan, are always stuck around 1000 RPMs out of 2000 no matter the temperature.

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  • Perl EPIC Not recognising installed CPAN modules

    - by Recc
    Eclipse on a mac, was working fine adding new modules until I Installed Text::CSV_XS which Eclips doesn't recognise as added to @INC For instance use strict; use SOAP::Transport::HTTP; SOAP::Transport::HTTP::CGI->dispatch_to('C2FService')->handle; BEGIN { package C2FService; use vars qw(@ISA); @ISA = qw(Exporter SOAP::Server::Parameters); use SOAP::Lite; sub c2f { my $self = shift; my $envelope = pop; my $temp = $envelope->dataof("//c2f/temperature"); return SOAP::Data->name( 'convertedTemp' => ( ( ( 9 / 5 ) * ( $temp->value ) ) + 32 ) ); } } use SOAP::Transport::HTTP; is marked as error if I comment it out use SOAP::Lite; is in turn marked as an error, not found etc the usual if a module is not installed. Both are installed with CPAN and $ perl -c soap-test.pl post-code-check.pl syntax OK Perl is fine CPAN tests are all pass, the code works, only EPIC lags behind. $ pwd && ls /opt/local/lib/perl5/site_perl/5.12.4/SOAP Client.pod Lite Server.pod Constants.pm Lite.pm Test.pm Data.pod Packager.pm Trace.pod Deserializer.pod SOM.pod Transport Fault.pod Schema.pod Transport.pod Header.pod Serializer.pod Utils.pod And if I have use errors in the start of my files the rest of the source is not error checked..

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  • Analyze a BSOD (irql_less_than_or_equal)

    - by Bruno Reis
    Hello. About 2 months ago I bought a new system and built it at home: Mother board: XFX X58i Processor: Core i7 920, using the stock cooler Memory: 3x2GB Corsair DDR3 1600 Video card: NVIDIA GTS 250 (1GB) Hard disk: 2x WD 500GB, 7200rpm I have 2 screens plugged into the video card, and the system is connected to a 550W PSU. Nothing is overclocked. After building the system, I stressed it a lot with Prime95 and rthdribl to check its stability. All my tests were perfect. So I reinstalled Win 7 x64 Professional and started using it normally. The first week (2010-03-15) I got the infamous irql_less_than_or_equal BSOD. Ten days after (2010-03-24) I got another one. Then on 2010-04-09, 2010-05-04. Since 2 days ago it became worse: I got one bluescreen per day! (2010-05-12, 2010-05-13, 2010-05-14). I installed BlueScreenView to try to obtain some information, but I'm not able to extract any useful information apart from the bug check string (irql_less_than_or_equal), and that it was caused by ntoskrnl.exe (the first three at ntoskrnl.exe+71f00, the last 4 at ntoskrnl.exe+70600 -- which I suspect could be the same thing, as Microsoft could have patched this file in the mean time, so the address of the function causing it changed). Then I stressed my memory sticks with memtest, they worked perfectly. After booting, I've stressed my GPU with FurMark and RTHDRIBL, everything was fine. Then I stressed the CPU with 4 instances of Prime95 while monitoring the temperature -- that never exceeded 85oC with the case closed --, everything fine. Finally I've stressed the whole system with HeavyLoad for a looooong time, everything worked just fine. So, I have stressed most of the components of the system, but couldn't get any useful information from it. Do you have any hint on what else can I do to find the culprit? Thanks Bruno

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  • Will just a couple of thermal "trip" shutdowns typically damage a CPU?

    - by T.J. Crowder
    The short version If a CPU gets so hot that the system turns itself off because of a thermal trip signal just a couple of times, is it likely that the CPU will be damaged? Or does the trip do its job, turning it off before the CPU gets damaged? (This is with all default settings in the BIOS; I haven't raised any temp thresholds or overclocked anything.) The longer version I just got this Intel Atom D510-based fanless system, installed a 2.5" mobile SATA drive and two 2GB PC2-6400s, closed it up, and having checked everything was recognized in the BIOS, set about installing Ubuntu. After a couple of false starts related, I think, to the external DVD drive I was using, I got the install happily running along. About three-fourths or so of the way through the install, having been running less than an hour, the machine turned itself off. I was actually out of the room at the time, but when I came back and turned it back on, it said it had shut down due to a thermal event. I went into the BIOS and saw that (at that point, having just been turned back on after a couple of minutes off), it was running 87C. As near as I can tell from Intel's docs (PDF here), the max "junction" temperature for the CPU is 100C and it will raise a THERMTRIP signal at 125C. Yowsa. Presumably there will be some back-and-forth with the vendor on this, I'm just wondering whether letting it get that hot a couple of times is likely to end up damaging it.

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  • 2008 Sever Randomly reboots.

    - by Jeff
    I'm out of ideas here. We have a 2008 Server that keeps rebooting 2-3 times a day at completely random times with an "Unexpected Shutdown" event. There are no Dumps, no events leading to it just like it loses power then comes back online. I ran a Diagnostic of the power supply and it has had continuous power for months. In addition, the temperature of the processors are maxing out at 40 degrees Celsius. Anyone have any ideas how to figure out why this is restarting all the time? This is a DMZed Web server so it doesn't do too much process wise. Here are the specs: Host Name: ~~~ OS Name: Microsoft Windows Server 2008 R2 Standard OS Version: 6.1.7600 N/A Build 7600 OS Manufacturer: Microsoft Corporation OS Configuration: Standalone Server OS Build Type: Multiprocessor Free Registered Owner: Windows User Registered Organization: Product ID: ~~~ Original Install Date: 5/27/2010, 4:25:47 PM System Boot Time: 2/14/2011, 5:35:01 PM System Manufacturer: HP System Model: ProLiant DL380 G6 System Type: x64-based PC Processor(s): 1 Processor(s) Installed. [01]: Intel64 Family 6 Model 26 Stepping 5 GenuineIntel ~1586 Mhz BIOS Version: HP P62, 8/16/2010 Windows Directory: C:\Windows System Directory: C:\Windows\system32 Boot Device: \Device\HarddiskVolume1 System Locale: en-us;English (United States) Input Locale: en-us;English (United States) Time Zone: (UTC-05:00) Eastern Time (US & Canada) Total Physical Memory: 4,086 MB Available Physical Memory: 2,775 MB Virtual Memory: Max Size: 8,170 MB Virtual Memory: Available: 6,691 MB Virtual Memory: In Use: 1,479 MB Page File Location(s): C:\pagefile.sys

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  • Formatting an external HDD stuck at 70%

    - by mahmood
    My external HDD which is a 250GB WD (powered by USB) seems to have problem! Whenever i try to copy some files, it stuck while copying. I decided to format it. So I used windows tool and performed the format (not quickly) however at nearly 70% it stuck. Then I decided to perform a low level format with lowlevel. Again it stuck at 70%. I endup that the HDD has bad sector. So is there any tool that mark the bad sectors and bypass them? It is not very reasonable to through 250GB because of some bad sectors! P.S: I saw a similar topic but there were no conclusion there either. The smart data is Attribute, raw value, value, threshold, status Read Error Rate, 50, 200, 51, OK Spin-Up Time, 3275, 154, 21, OK Start/Stop Count, 2729, 98, 0, OK Reallocated Sectors Count,0, 200, 140, OK Seek Error Rate, 0, 100, 51, OK Power-On Hours (POH), 1057, 99, 0, OK Spin Retry Count, 0, 100, 51, OK Recalibration Retries ,0, 100, 51 , OK Power Cycle Count, 1385, 99, 0, OK Power-off Retract Count, 425, 200, 0, OK Load /Unload Cycle Count,12974, 196, 0, OK Temperature, 43, 43, 0, OK Reallocation Event Count,0, 200, 0, OK Current Pending Sector Count,23,200, 0, Degradation Uncorrectable Sector Count, 0, 100, 0, OK UltraDMA CRC Error Count,6, 200, 0, OK Write Error Rate/Multi-Zone Error Rate,0,100,51, OK It seems that the most important thing is this line Current Pending Sector Count,23,200, 0, Degradation Any idea on that?

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  • PC powers off at random times

    - by Timo Huovinen
    Short Version After experiencing some problems with Mobo batteries my PC started to power off at random times, the power off is instant and sudden and does not restart afterwards, need help figuring out the cause. Facts: Powers off when PC is playing games Powers off when PC is idle Powers off when PC is in safe mode Powers off when PC is in BIOS Powers off when PC is booted through a Windows installation USB Replaced the motherboard battery several times Replaced the 650W PSU with a 750W PSU Replaced the RAM Swapped the RAM between slots Re-applied thermal paste to the CPU Checked if the motherboard touches the case Nothing is overclocked PC Specs PC specs: OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 RAM: klingston 1333MHz 4GB stick CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 Mobo: Gigabyte 88GMA-UD2H rev 2.2 Motherboard battery: CR2032 3v HDD: 500GB Seagate ST3500418AS ATA Device Graphics: ATI/AMD Radeon HD 6870 Very Long version Around 10 months ago I built a brand new gaming PC. Around 6 months ago it's time setting in windows started resetting to the year 2010. I swapped the Motherboard battery for a new one of the exact same size and shape and voltage, and the problems disappeared...for around 2 weeks. Then the same problem happened again, time gets reset, I swapped the battery again, and the problem was gone for good and everything was great for about 3 months.. then another problem started happening, the PC started to power off suddenly and without warning at completely random times, sometimes the PC works for and hour, sometimes 5 minutes. So I read on the forums that it might be either the PSU or the motherboard Battery or RAM or HDD or the Graphics card or the CPU or the motherboard or the drivers or a Virus or Grounding issues, or something short circuiting, basically it can be anything... I spent some days researching, and decided to remove the possibility of a virus. I reset the CMOS, cleared all BIOS settings and reinstalled windows 7 after a full format of the HDD, but the random power off kept happening. I then disabled the restart on error option in windows and looked at the event log for error events, but they did not help me figure out the problem. Network list service depends on network location awareness the dependency group failed to start Source Kernel Power Event 41 Task Category 63 Source Disk Event ID 11 Task Category None The driver detected a controller error on device disk I took apart the PC, every little piece, re-applied some expensive thermal paste to the CPU, and double checked that none of the pieces are touching the PC case. The problem was gone, the PC no longer powered off randomly I re-attached the graphics card and all was good for 4 months... then the power off problem appeared again, but was happening at high intervals, the PC would shutdown once in 2 days on average, at random points in time, sometimes when it's idle all day long, sometimes when it's running CRYSIS 2. I checked the CPU temperature, because I know that AMD CPU's have a built in protection mechanism that switches off the PC if the CPU gets too hot, and the Temp was 50C system temp, and 45C CPU after running the PC all day long (I did not do tests to see if there are any temperature spikes, don't know how to do them) Originally the PSU that powered the PC was 650Watts and had one 4 pin cable to power the CPU, I replaced it with a new 750Watts PSU which has two 4 pin cables for the CPU, but the problem remained. I removed the graphics card and let the motherboard use the built in one, but the PC kept suddenly powering off at random times. I took apart the PC completely again, and re-applied thermal paste to the CPU, added lots of insulation, and checked for any type of short-circuit possibility again and again, but the problem remained. The problem was like that for some months. I replaced the Battery a couple of times over the time, changed lots of options in windows, and tried everything I could, but it kept powering off, so I stopped using the PC as much as I used to, just living with the random power offs from time to time, until a couple of days ago, when the power off happens almost immediately after powering on the PC. I replaced the RAM with a brand new one, but that did not help. Took apart the PC again, checked for anything anywhere that might cause it, found some small scratches on the very edge of the motherboard to the left of the PCI express x16 slot. This might cause the problem, I thought, but the scratch looks very superficial, not deep at all, and if the scratch did harm the motherboard, wouldn't it cause it to not start at all? And why did it start to power off a while ago, and then suddenly stop powering off? The scratches could not have vanished??? did chkdsk \d but it powered off when it was at 75% I removed the hard disks, the graphics card, while I fiddled with the BIOS settings, and suddenly the PC shut down while I was looking at the BIOS version. This makes me realize, it is not caused by: HDD, Windows, Drivers or the Graphics card I cleared the CMOS again, updated the BIOS from F5 to F6f beta, but that did not help, it might even seem that the PC powers off even sooner. The shutdown even happened to me while I booted through a windows 7 installation USB and was in the repair console. I removed one of the cables powering the CPU, now only one 4pin cable powers it, and it worked for 30mins after doing that, which makes me think that it's the CPU overheating, and because it gets less power, it overheats slower? The things that I am still considering: CPU overheating (does not seem to overheat, maybe false readings?) Motherboard short circuiting (faulty motherboard?) I desperately need some advice in what is faulty, is it a faulty Motherboard or an overheating CPU? or maybe something else? I have been breaking my head over this problem over a span of 6 months. I'm not sure if this is a good place to ask this question, if it is not, then tell me where I can get some experienced help. More info I have also discovered a mysterious piece that seems to have fallen out of the motherboard i119.photobucket.com/albums/o126/yurikolovsky/strangepiece.jpg What is it? Looks like each time that it powers off the datetime gets reset I also found another forum post tomshardware.co.uk/forum/… except I don't have Integrated PeripheralsUSB Keyboard Function option in BIOS :S Comments summary (asked by Random moderator) Q. tell me, if the computer restarts, is it immediately? Does it take a second and then restarts? Do you see (BSOD) or hear (PSU, short circuit) any suspicious when it happens? After reading trough it, it remains the mainboard that is faulty. – JohannesM A. Immediate power off, all the fans stop instantly, all the light turn off instantly, no sound or anything, and it remains off until I turn it back on. Thanks for the feedback, faulty motherboard is what I fear. Q. Try stress-testing the system with Prime95 and see if errors or shutdowns occur when the CPU is under full load. – speakr A. Prime95 heat stress test peaked CPU heat at 60C after 5mins, it powered off after 30mins of testing in the middle of the test with no errors, Prime95 Heat test or the stress-testing with low RAM usage (small or in-place FFTs) do not report errors while testing for 10-60 mins. The power off does not seem like it is affected by Prime95 at all Makes me wonder if it's a CPU or Motherboard issue at all. Q. I had similar random/intermittent problems with my old board. It gave one of a few different symptoms: keyboard and/or mouse would die and/or the RAM wouldn't work and/or it would shut down. It was in bad shape. One problems was that my old PSU had literally burned the connector on it (browned around the pins), another was that a broken lead inside the layers of the PCB would work sometimes if it happened to be hot or if I bent the board—by jamming a hunk of wood behind it. I managed to keep the board alive for several years, but eventually nothing I did would make it work correctly anymore. – Synetech A. I will try that as the last resort, ok? ;) Q. Have you tried a different power cord, surge protector, outlet (on a different circuit). It's worth a shot just to ensure it's not subpar wiring or a week circuit (dips in power may cause shutdown if the PSU can't pull enough juice from the wall). – Kyle A. yes, I attached the PC to an entirely different outlet on a different circuit and the problem persists. After connecting it to a different outlet after starting the PC it gave me 3 long beeps and 1 short one, then the PC immediately proceeded to boot up normally. Q. Re-check your mainboard manual and all PSU connections to your mainboard to be sure that nothing is missing (e.g. 12V ATX 4-pin/6-pin connector). If you can provoke shutdowns with Prime95, then consider buying new hardware -- a stable system should run Prime95 for 24h without any errors. Prime95 mentions errors in the log when they occur and gives a summary after the stress test was stopped manually (e.g. "0 errors, 0 warnings", if all is fine) – speakr A. Re-checked, there are no more PSU connectors that I can physically connect, except the one ATX 4-pin (there are 2 that power the CPU) that I disconnected on purpose, I have reconnected it but the problem persists. Q. With one PC I had a short curcuit. The power button on the front plate had its cables soldered, but not isolated, and the contacts were very close to the metal case. A heavier touch was enough to cause a shutdown. The PC's vibration could be enough – ott-- A. yes, it seems to switch off with even the lightest touch, I switched on the PC, then pulled out the front panel power cable that connects to the motherboard so the power button does not work anymore, after 5 mins of working like that, with the power button completely disconnected, just sitting idle, the PC powered off again, I don't think it's the power button. Q. I wonder if you dare to operate components without the case, that is remove motherboard, power, disk ( just put the motherboard on a wooden desk). Don't bend the adapters when running like that. – ott-- A. yes, I do dare to do that, but only tomorrow, too tired/late right now.

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  • How to run the CPU at something like 75%?

    - by Tobias Kienzler
    My notebook is too old for me to invest into a new fan (it will simply be replaced by a new one when the final heat death occurs), but when it runs on full speed I feel like sitting in front of a vacuum cleaner with integrated cooking... I'm currently using NHC, the Max Battery mode of which let's the CPU run at 50% (~800 MHz). That's fine for most applications, and both temperature and noise remain low. However, on some occasions I need a bit more speed, more around 75% maybe. Can I set the power saving settings somehow so that the CPU won't surpass 75% of it's capability so that an acceptable compromise between power and noise is achieved? I can't set the CPU frequency in the BIOS and since on rare occasions I'd like to be able to switch to 100% without much hassling, hardware solutions like setting jumpers are no option. This answer to a similar (linux!) question mentions NHC should be able to offer these options, but for me they are all greyed out: The notebook is an Asus Z9200K, I guess NHC doesn't support its chipset enough for these advanced options.

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  • How to diagnose occasional sudden resets?

    - by steve314
    I have a Windows XP system, and have recently upgraded by adding 2 1GB sticks of RAM to the 2x0.5GB already present. Since then, about once per day (the system is used 8+ hours per day), the system has suddenly and unexpectedly reset. On a couple of occasions, the system has frozen completely, only responding to the power button being held in for several seconds to force power off. Nothing at all ever appears in the system event log that might indicate a possible cause - everything seems to suggest business as usual. Sounds like faulty memory - but memtest86+ says otherwise. A full test, taking over an hour, found no issues. The next likely suspicion, then, is that I've knocked something while installing the RAM. Trouble is, everything I can think of to test seems fine. I've opened up the case and prodded a few things around, hoping to get better contact on connections etc, but there's no sign yet as to whether that has made a difference or not. I thought about a malware-related timing fluke, but again, so far as I can tell I'm all clear. All I can think of to add to my checklist (mainly of things that I can't easily check) is... The power supply is (1) only 350W, (2) not necessarily the best quality, and (3) powering a Prescott P4 640 3.2GHz. Could that be borderline overloaded or about to die? How do I check? Is it possible that the CPU isn't getting cooled properly? I haven't had the fan past normal tickover even doing video encoding, and the only sane temperature reading from SpeedFan is pretty steady at 36 celcius, so probably not. Any thoughts? Is there a standard procedure for diagnosing this kind of fault?

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  • The Server Fault Wiki of recommended practices [migrated]

    - by Avery Payne
    So I've noticed that there are several recommendations on basic practices on Server Fault, but there doesn't seem to be a cohesive view as to how those recommendations would all fit together. So I thought I would lump these together as a kind of mental exercise to see what the "ServerFault Community IT Department" would look like if it were implemented. This would give a few things: it would make a reasonable wiki (in the true wiki spirit of many contributions), it would provide several links to well-vetted practices, and it would be kind of fun to see what the amalgamation would look like. And who knows, it may even point out some interesting issues between different forms of "best practices", although I would be stunned if there was a conflict hidden in there someplace... Add your favorites from Server Fault as answers, and I'll re-edit this section with the results. Here's a few catagories to collect different ideas together. Hardware Configuration(s) Server room configuration. Server room temperature Firmware Updates and Scheduling Storage Configuration(s) Selecting a NAS box Linux: Dealing with /tmp Linux: Install apps in /var or /opt? Network Configuration(s) checking DNS health and compliance Security Practice(s) Password (General) Best Practices Password sharing methods Windows Update Updating Windows Servers that are hosts for VMs Network Service(s) User Service(s) User Naming & Deletion Upgrade Process(es) Disaster Recovery Checking Backups Documenting an outage for a post-mortem review Last Edit: 2010-02-17

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  • Investigating a potential CPU failure

    - by Jernej
    On a Ubuntu server that I am using for computations I have recently observed that some CPU extensive programs (GUROBI,CPLEX) often segfault. Being in correspondence with tech support of the respective programs I was suggested that it may be a hardware issue. The administrator of the server performed a detailed memtest and it turned out that the RAM modules appear to be fine. Hence I've used the tool mprime to test the CPU and the following two lines appear multiple times durring the execution of the stress tests: [Worker #4 Oct 18 18:47] FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.498046875, expected less than 0.4 [Worker #4 Oct 18 18:47] Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file. The stress.txt file in itself is not very verbose about what could be the cause of this error so I would like to ask whether anyone here happens to know what could be the cause of this issue? Is there some other test I could perform to nail the problem even further? The temperature of the system (and all cores) was fine during the entire stress test (+69.0°C (high = +80.0°C, crit = +98.0°C)) the CPU in question is a Intel Core i7-2600K CPU @ 3.40GHz and is not overclocked or modified in any way. Also what is interesting that if I run mprime to only stress the CPU all tests pass fine. The error is only triggered when I let mprime stress the CPU+RAM.

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  • Coffee spilled inside computer, damaged hard drive

    - by Harpreet
    Today coffee spilled over my table, and some of it (very less) reached the PC case placed under the table. I think little bit of it got inside the PC case through the front. As that happened the fan started running very fast and made noise. I tried to restart to see if it becomes fine, but the computer didn't start again. First it gave an error of "Alert! Air temperature sensor not detected" and didn't start. Next I tried again multiple times of starting the computer but then it gave some memory error. I was not able to start the computer. Incase there's a problem in hard disk or something related to memory, is there any way we can extract our work or data? I am scared if I am not able to extract my work in case some problem occurs like that. What options would I have? Help!! EDIT: I have attached the photo here and you can see the area spilt in red circle. The hard drive electronics have been affected and internal speaker may also have been affected. Any advise on cleaning and if hard drive can work? EDIT 2: Are there any professional services offered to extract data from blemished hard disk, like this one, in case I am not able to run it personally?

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  • Desktop PC does not power up on power button

    - by hIpPy
    When I press the power button on my desktop, it does not power up completely. Before I press the power button, I see lights on the motherboard. Everything is normal. On power button press, the fans on the cpu, graphics card and motherboard start to spin a little for a second or two and then they stop. No beeps during this process. It has been doing this for a while now but it used to start up after some trials. Once it starts up, I have NO issues at all like random shutdowns so it is not an issue with OS. I'm just guessing here but it seems as if the PSU (Antec TP2-550ATX) is dying out and does not have enough power now - just a guess. It's an old desktop assembled in 2005 but I have maintained it well. Any ideas? Please help. Thanks. Below is the complete configuration. DFI LAN-Party UT NF4 Ultra-D 6/23 {6.70}, Evercool EC-VC-RE 41/47C, AMD Opteron 170 2.0GHz {1.3.2.16} 1.312V 36/41C, ThermalRight SI-120, Panaflo 120×38mm OCZ Platinum 2×1GB 200MHz 2.66V 3-3-2-7 1T XFX 7800GTX 256MB 475/1250MHz {91.31}, Zalman VF900 Cu led 41/56C WD Caviar 320GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA 3Gb/s Antec TP2-550ATX Antec P180 WinXP sp2 KB896256 Logitech MX310 Razer Mantis Speed BenQ FP91G+ 19" LCD 8ms DVI Creative Audigy2 ZS {4.42} BenQ DW1640 Logitech z-5300e 5.1 280W Legend: Driver versions: {} User settings: [] Voltage: V Wattage: W Temperature: C (Celsius) min/max

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  • Motherboard running rather hot while gaming

    - by I take Drukqs
    Case: Antec 1200 Mobo: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU: Intel i7 950 (stock cooler) GPU: EVGA GeForce 570 GTX RAM: 2x 2 GB (4 GB total) DDR3 dual-channel Corsair OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit This is my first build and it's brand new. I had no problems putting it all together in a few hours one evening and I consider myself to be pretty good with computers. Not to brag or anything like that! Just saying I've been fiddling with them since I was in diapers and I have a good amount of experience under my belt, just not with certain things yet. Recently while playing many of the latest games maxed out without a hitch my motherboard has been running hot and like anyone who's ever built a computer it scares the life out of me. I checked HWMonitor and saw that my motherboard sometimes reached temperatures of around 52 - 78c (the number 78 obviously being what's scaring me). I was wondering if such a temperature is normal and if not what the problem could be. Air flow in my case is phenomenal and besides having to ship back a faulty GPU and reseat my CPU my first build has been a very large success which I am enjoying tremendously. There is literally almost no dust in my case due to it being very new as previously mentioned and my RAM sticks are in the correct slots for dual-channel mode. My cable management is pretty great in my opinion with only cables from my PSU lingering in the bottom of the case. At any given opportunity I ran my cables behind my mobo. Air flow should definitely not be a problem because my CPU only goes up to about 60c and my GPU only goes up to about 80c. Thank you very much in advance.

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  • Samsung laptop randomly shuts down

    - by Dmatig
    I've rewritten this question because it turned into an indecipherable mess. I have a Samsung R560 laptop that is overheating, and shutting itself down under load consistantly. Thank you quickcel for reccomending me Speedfan to monitor my temps. Here they are (Load / Idle): (Ignore "Temp1 and Temp2", whatever sensors they are they'd always random, pretty sure they're broke). The load temperature is after just 5 minites of playing Fallout 3 - another 5 minutes and it (the GPU - 9600M GS) consistantly breaches the mid 90's then shuts down, so it's hard to get a good picture of it. I'm looking for some solution or way to decrease these temperatures, because they seem far too high even idle. I've tried: Opening up the case and clearing of all dust with compressed air. Updating drivers for my Graphics card Have purchased and am using a notebook cooler I don't want to: Undervolt / underclock (defeats the point of having a more expensive card) Use lower power / performance settings (again, i might as well have bought something cheaper) Is there anything else i can try (software or inexpensive hardware) that can help me fix this? Has anybody had a Samsung laptop and knows if this can be sorted under my warranty, and the turnaround time of sending it off (UK?)(it has always ran hotter than it should, but now at 6 months old is getting hot enough to power off)

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  • Radeon 6950 - Garbling of text and graphics in certain Windows only

    - by Greg
    This morning I noticed the text in Gmail (in Firefox 4) looked a little funny (kind of thin, maybe some color fringing). I went to work and thought it might be some ClearType issue or something with the way Direct way that FF4 draws to the screen. When I came back from work (I left the computer on), the problem was much worse - way beyond ClearType nit-picking. The text was barely readable. I opened Chrome and there was no such problem. It seems like only Windows that use hardware acceleration are garbled, and ones that use GDI are not. But, I fired up Dragon Age and didn't notice any problems (I only really looked at the main menu though). Here is a link to a screen shot that illustrates the problem. Notice how the Windows Live Mesh window is completely unreadable, the text in Firefox 4 (left) is pretty bad, while Chrome, the Windows Control Panel, and the task bar are perfectly fine. The fact that the problem shows up in screen shots and that it only happens in certain Windows makes me confident that the problem cannot be with the monitor or DVI cable. I am using the AMD Radeon drivers from 4/27/11. The card I have (MSI Frozr II) came with a slight overclock (810Mhz) out of the box, but it looks like when I'm on the Windows desktop it's not running at full clock (CCC reports 450Mhz). Still, I underclocked it to the stock reference clock (800Mhz) and it made no difference. The idle temperature according to Afterburner is 42-44 Celsius, which seems a tad high but not enough to cause a problem - it's cold to the touch if I open up the machine. What the heck could be causing this? The problem varies in intensity. As we speak I'm in Firefox and things look better than they did earlier - it'll probably get worse again soon. Radeon 6950 (MSI Frozr II), Seasonic X 560, Core i5 2500K at stock clockspeeds, 16GB RAM, Asus P8P67 M Pro

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  • Radeon 6950 - Garbling of text and graphics in certain Windows only

    - by Greg
    This morning I noticed the text in Gmail (in Firefox 4) looked a little funny (kind of thin, maybe some color fringing). I went to work and thought it might be some ClearType issue or something with the way Direct way that FF4 draws to the screen. When I came back from work (I left the computer on), the problem was much worse - way beyond ClearType nit-picking. The text was barely readable. I opened Chrome and there was no such problem. It seems like only Windows that use hardware acceleration are garbled, and ones that use GDI are not. But, I fired up Dragon Age and didn't notice any problems (I only really looked at the main menu though). Here is a link to a screen shot that illustrates the problem. Notice how the Windows Live Mesh window is completely unreadable, the text in Firefox 4 (left) is pretty bad, while Chrome, the Windows Control Panel, and the task bar are perfectly fine. The fact that the problem shows up in screen shots and that it only happens in certain Windows makes me confident that the problem cannot be with the monitor or DVI cable. I am using the AMD Radeon drivers from 4/27/11. The card I have (MSI Frozr II) came with a slight overclock (810Mhz) out of the box, but it looks like when I'm on the Windows desktop it's not running at full clock (CCC reports 450Mhz). Still, I underclocked it to the stock reference clock (800Mhz) and it made no difference. The idle temperature according to Afterburner is 42-44 Celsius, which seems a tad high but not enough to cause a problem - it's cold to the touch if I open up the machine. What the heck could be causing this? The problem varies in intensity. As we speak I'm in Firefox and things look better than they did earlier - it'll probably get worse again soon. Radeon 6950 (MSI Frozr II), Seasonic X 560, Core i5 2500K at stock clockspeeds, 16GB RAM, Asus P8P67 M Pro

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  • Desktop PC does not power up on power button

    - by hIpPy
    When I press the power button on my desktop, it does not power up completely. Before I press the power button, I see lights on the motherboard. Everything is normal. On power button press, the fans on the cpu, graphics card and motherboard start to spin a little for a second or two and then they stop. No beeps during this process. It has been doing this for a while now but it used to start up after some trials. Once it starts up, I have NO issues at all like random shutdowns so it is not an issue with OS. Update: I left the desktop off for a few days and it started. I'm just guessing here but it seems as if the PSU (Antec TP2-550ATX) is dying out and does not have enough power now - just a guess. It's an old desktop assembled in 2005 but I have maintained it well. Update: I always keep the desktop running and I never shut it down. During updates or manual restarts, it powers up without issues. I wonder if this sheds lights on the issue. Any idea how I can narrow down the issue? ex: if I can find if the PSU is dying etc. I'd really like to fix the issue. Please help. Thanks. Below is the complete configuration. DFI LAN-Party UT NF4 Ultra-D 6/23 {6.70}, Evercool EC-VC-RE 41/47C, AMD Opteron 170 2.0GHz {1.3.2.16} 1.312V 36/41C, ThermalRight SI-120, Panaflo 120×38mm OCZ Platinum 2×1GB 200MHz 2.66V 3-3-2-7 1T XFX 7800GTX 256MB 475/1250MHz {91.31}, Zalman VF900 Cu led 41/56C WD Caviar 320GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA 3Gb/s Antec TP2-550ATX Antec P180 WinXP sp3 Logitech MX310 Razer Mantis Speed BenQ FP91G+ 19" LCD 8ms DVI Creative Audigy2 ZS {4.42} BenQ DW1640 Logitech z-5300e 5.1 280W Legend: Driver versions: {} User settings: [] Voltage: V Wattage: W Temperature: C (Celsius) min/max

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  • Best usage for a laptop being used as a desktop without removable batteries

    - by Senseful
    After reading the information on http://batteryuniversity.com, I realize that one of the best ways to permanently damage a lithium ion battery is to use the battery at a high temperature while it's fully charged. This is exactly what happens when you use the computer as if it were a desktop computer, since leaving it plugged in will keep the battery at 100% and using the computer will heat up the battery. This is why it's recommend to remove the battery from your laptop if you are using it is this scenario. My question is what would you do if the laptop doesn't have removable batteries (e.g. a MacBook Pro)? Should I use some kind of charge cycle such as: charge to 80%, unplug the power chord, use the laptop until it reaches 20%, then repeat the cycle by charging to 80% again? If so, which values should I use instead of 80% and 20%? (I think charging to 80% is better than 100% because of the damage that a hot battery at 100% can do, but I just made the figure 80% up, and I'm sure there's a better number to strive for which is backed by science.) I've read many of the articles on batteryuniversity.com, but couldn't find anything pertaining to this. Update: What about doing something like charge (or discharge) it to 50%, then plug it in and turn on settings which use the battery as much as possible (e.g. brightness all the way up, wi-fi on, etc.), in order to try to maintain the battery at 50% (i.e. the rate it is charging is the same as it is discharging). This will probably heat up the battery, but would make it so you don't need to constantly plug and unplug the laptop. The one bad thing is that you are taking up more charge cycles which would decrease the battery life, thus I'm not sure this is a good idea.

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