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• TV-out worked, now doesn't. May the problem be the cable, TV, driver, OS, graphic card?

  - by Petruza

  I have a CRT TV hooked to the PC, which once worked great, now doesn't. I can't consider getting a newer TV, this one is used in an MAME arcade cabinet so it has to be a CRT for best old school look and feel. It's connected through the TV-out connector of my graphic card. When it worked, I had Windows XP, the same PC and the same card. Now I have windows 7, not sure if the OS switch caused the malfunction as I don't use the TV-out all the time. Can it be an upgrade of the Nvidia driver? I thought it may be the S-video to RCA cable, but tried 3 different cables and neither worked. In fact, one of them, that unlike the other two, has a single RCA output connector instead of two, behaves differently, although it doesn't work, but it does the following: When I open the NVidia settings panel, or when I change a setting and click Apply then the TV flashes for a split second and you can see the windows screen, but then it goes back to blank. So any clues what can be failing here, and some advice? Possible failures, please comment on the one you suspect the most: NVidia driver version Windows version Cable Graphic card's TV out other?

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• Intel D2500HN Atom D2500 Doesn't turn on

  - by David W

  I recently bought parts from Amazon to build an embedded PC, and have assembled everything. I have: Intel D2500HN Mini-ITX Motherboard Mini-Box Pico-PSU 80 M350 Universal Min-ITX Enclosure 2GB DDR3 Memory Kinamax AD-LCD12 LCD Monitors 12V 6A 72W AC Adapter Power Supply The motherboard gets a light (on the motherboard, not on the Pico-PSU) when I plug it into the power adapter. Furthermore, I see the power switch light come on when I press the power button. However, the display doesn't turn on, and it doesn't seem that the PC is actually turned on. Since I'm seeing these lights, I know that the motherboard is getting power. Furthermore, the display VGA port is embedded into the motherboard, so that's not the issue. I'm just trying to figure out what COULD be the issue aside from a faulty motherboard. I have a diagram of the D2500HN motherboard which labels everything, and have ensured that the power LED as well as the On/Off cables are plugged into the right spots, although to be sure I've tried flipping these two cables around, and also plugging 1 cable into the other cable's spot & vice-versa. Is there anything else you folks think I may be missing, or anything else I can do to try to troubleshoot this issue before sending the motherboard back?

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• Windows 7 home backup solution, with offsite provision

  - by Richard E

  I am looking for a home backup solution for my single Windows 7 (Home Premium) PC. I have about 500GB of data to backup. I would like to spend less than GBP 300 on the solution. I don't see the need to backup the whole PC, rather specific folder branches (iTunes, photos, documents, Outlook files, user folders such as desktop, favorites etc). I would like a solution that enables me to maintain backups in two separate physical locations (e.g. home and work). To facilitate this I am imagining a storage unit with slots for two removable drives, along with three separate drives. At any one time two of the drives will be being backed up to in the storage unit. The third will be located at my work. Periodically I will take one of the drives into work and leave it there, then bring the drive that was there back home, and plug it into the storage unit. It will then be backed up along with the other drive that was left in the storage unit. This approach should cover scenarios such as virus attack and fire or theft from one location. Thoughts and comments on the sanity of this approach please...

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• Windows 7 home backup solution, with offsite provision

  - by Richard E

  I am looking for a home backup solution for my single Windows 7 (Home Premium) PC. I have about 500GB of data to backup. I would like to spend less than GBP 300 on the solution. I don't see the need to backup the whole PC, rather specific folder branches (iTunes, photos, documents, Outlook files, user folders such as desktop, favorites etc). I would like a solution that enables me to maintain backups in two separate physical locations (e.g. home and work). To facilitate this I am imagining a storage unit with slots for two removable drives, along with three separate drives. At any one time two of the drives will be being backed up to in the storage unit. The third will be located at my work. Periodically I will take one of the drives into work and leave it there, then bring the drive that was there back home, and plug it into the storage unit. It will then be backed up along with the other drive that was left in the storage unit. This approach should cover scenarios such as virus attack and fire or theft from one location. Thoughts and comments on the sanity of this approach please...

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• How do I get a Wireless N PCi card to connect to a wireless G router?

  - by Andy

  I'm having some problems setting up a new wireless PCI card on a WinXP SP3 PC. I know that the router is configured correctly. It is a Linksys WRT54GL, using 802.11b/g. Security mode is WPA2 Personal with TKIP+AES encryption. I am able to connect to this fine using my laptop (first gen MacBook with a 802.11b built in card). The new PCI card is also Linksys, but it supports 802.11n. Card seems to be installed ok (Windows sees it fine, doesn't list any errors in Device Manager), however when it scans for available wireless networks it can't find my wireless network (the router is set to broadcast the SSID). I tried to enter the network SSID manually, but that didn't seem to help. I chose WPA2-PSK for network authentication. The only options for encryption are TKIP or AES - I've tried both, neither worked. I am sure that I typed in my wireless key correctly. At this point, I don't think the problem is with encryption, but something else. It almost seems like I need to switch the wireless card into g mode, but I haven't found a way to do that (if that is even possible/necessary - I thought n was fully backwards compatible with g). Also, the PC is in the same room as the router, and my laptop, so I don't think that it is an interference issue. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I'm running out of things to try at this point. :(

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• ATI HDMI Audio disappears in Windows 7 when a TV is connected

  - by jsalonen

  So far I have unsuccessfully googled for HOURS with no luck fixing this very annoying problem. The settings is the following: I have PC running Windows 7 RC (64-bit) Video card is a ATI Radeon 4850 series card (Sapphire HD 4850 512MB to be exact) The video card has HDMI out with built-in audio chip I have an HDMI cable connecting the PC to a TV (Sony Bravia series) The problem is that when I connect the HDMI cable to the TV, the ATI HDMI Sound output device disappears completely from the list of playback devices in Windows. As a workaround I can restore the audio by re-installing the HDMI audio driver. However, when I disconnect the TV the driver disappears again. So basically, every time I want to watch stuff on my TV, I have to reinstall audio driver, which of course is VERY annoying. EDIT: I have figured out that I do not need to re-istall the HDMI audio driver to restore sound; I only need to reboot my computer with the HDMI cable plugged in to restore the audio driver. This suggests that the problem has something to do with information passed from TV to computer, which makes my HDMI Audio driver disappear. Are there any other, more elegant workarounds for this problem? All help is much appreciated!

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• Windows 8: Clean Install Fails BEFORE country Screen

  - by Mark

  G'day, I've been trying to (clean) install Windows 8 on my PC now for over two weeks now, and it's really getting old. You can see here that I've outlined my issue to the Windows Technical Community, which has resulted in... absolutely no help at all. http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_8-windows_install/windows-8-clean-install-fails-before-country/64229d0a-0220-45a9-bdc6-c41062df8a75 Tl;dr? Yeah, me too. Basically, I've shrunk the HDD, it's working (I'm on that PC on XP). I've put both the x64 and the x86 DVD's, AND an another HDD with W8 installed on it from my test machine, and they ALL Fail to load. (I get the slanty windows logo, and after about 10 seconds BOOM. Sad face error screen.) I really don't want to have to remove the video card, or the unevenly/not partnered DIMM in the 2nd Memory channel - because the case is .. stupid, and in an awkward spot, but I'm running out of ideas! PS. I tried turning on ACHI tonight. All that resulted in was XP wigging out about new drivers & explorer.exe crashing. Fun times! :(

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• Correct way to set up office network - 8 workstations, a file server and a staging server

  - by naunu

  Our office had this old school windows 2003 domain setup, our server caught fire, and now we are looking to do it right from scratch. Here is what we need: 5 PC and 3 Mac workstations for web development, they will each have WAMP/MAMP setup on them, managed by their developers. We will have a file server for assets, and a LAMP server with an external IP for staging. Here is what we have to work with: 5 IP addresses, brand new PC file server with windows 2008 SE, D-Link DSS-16+ 16 port switch, belkin 5 port wireless router, cable modem with 4 ports. How I have it set up now (this is a temporary makeshift setup): Cable modem = LAMP server, wireless router Wireless router = Switch = All of the workstations and file server (setup as a workgroup). We have noticed our internet is very slow with us all plugged in to the switch, and the switch plugged in to the router. I am not positive, but I think it is because our router does not have NAT. We are also having problems with the MACs connection to the network drive - it keeps disconnecting. I want this done right, and we have a ~$600 budget to buy anything else we need. Does anybody have any advice for me? Should I set up a domain or workgroup?

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• Problem setting up HP PhotoSmart C4783

  - by ProfKaos

  I am trying to get several PC's on a network to connect to my client's new wireless printer, the C4783. I initially installed the whole HP 'tsumami of software' the comes with the printer onto my laptop, connected to the printer over USB, and corrected it's networking config. My laptop now also can connect to and print on the printer over the wireless network, as is intended for all PC's. However, when I try and install the HP software on my client's netbook, the HP software cannot find the printer. Firewall was turned off during this time, so doesn't play a role. I tried re-installing all software, but I initially only got a "Repair" or "Uninstall". Choosing Uninstall triggers a lengthy process that ends with a sudden and forceful restart, after which the same "Repair" or "Uninstall" choices are present. Looks like uninstall doesn't. Any suggestions as to how I can begin diagnosing why my laptop has no problem connecting to the printer, but two others do? Wireless is unsecured, and no, nobody has to know where I am right now. :-)

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• Password-protected sharing allows access to users who have no account?

  - by romkyns

  Running Win7 on two computers in my LAN. Computer A has password-protected sharing enabled, and shares a folder. It has a single user account "Bob", and the Guest account is turned off. The network is workgroup-based. According to the descriptions of the "password-protected sharing" I could find, the only people who can access the shared folder via the LAN are those who know the username+password for the "Bob" account. However a second computer on the LAN is able to view this shared folder by simply browsing to Computer A. They don't need to enter any passwords or anything. The only user account registered on that PC is called "Jim", and has a different password from "Bob". How on earth is computer B able to view this shared folder? Is the popular description of the "password-protected sharing" feature inaccurate / did I misunderstand it big time? P.S. There is a possibility that the password for "Bob" has been entered on that PC once, and possibly the "remember password" box was checked. I've looked in the "Credential Manager" on both computers and there is nothing saved anywhere.

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• What does a DHCP-client consider to be the "best" answer?

  - by Nils

  We have training rooms where normally Windows XP is installed (via PXE). The "normal" DNS/DHCP infrastructure are Windows-Servers. The training room has its own VLAN (different from the Windows servers), so there is most propably an IP helper for DHCP requests active on the Cisco router where all PCs from that room are connected to. Now we wanted to convert some of the PCs to Linux instead. The idea was: Put our own Laptop with a DHCP server into the VLAN of the room and override the "normal" DHCP response. The idea was that this should work, since a directly attached DHCP server in that VLAN should have a faster response-time than the "normal" DHCP server located some hops away from that VLAN. It turned out that this did not work. We had to manually release the lease on the original DHCP server to get it working. On the Laptop we did see the client requesting the IP and "our" dhcp was sending NACKs to the Windows IP request, before that we did offer our own response. Old Question: Why did this not work out as expected? What is making the PC regain its old lease? Update 2012-08-08: The regain-issue has been explained in the DHCP-RFC. Now this explains why the PC regains its old lease. Now we do release the IP from the Windows-DHCP-server before giving it another try. Again - the Windows-DHCP-server wins. I suspect that there is some algorithm for the dhcp-client which determines the "best" dhcp-answer for the client. The new question is: How does the client choose the "best" answer?

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• How long will a USB key with an OS installed on it last?

  - by Xananax

  I've heard numerous times that installing an OS on a USB key is a bad thing to do, as USBs typically have a certain number of writes before dying, and installing an OS on it will wear it out (unless it's used sporadically for rescue purposes). Nonetheless, I am very tempted to install some flavour of Linux (Ubuntu or Arch, I haven't decided yet) on a small, transportable, USB Key. My problem is, although you read a lot that it's "bad", you are never told how bad. How long would it last (provided, say, a pc that is 24/7 on)? A month? A year? Five years? Is there recipes to make it last longer? Is there any reason beside weariness that should prevent me from attempting this? I mean, if it can be calculated, then I could theoretically shield myself by doing regular backups on another key when the deadline gets close (for example). Notes I am not talking of using a USB as a live CD, but actually installing the OS on it.) When I say "USB Key", I refer to the little USBs with a flash memory, not an external USB hard drive. For the curious, my reason is that I work in a lot of different places, on different PCs, and I have a very customized session, with my own WM, my own key bindings, my own scripts, , a selection of plugins for firefox and chrome, etc, and currently I am synchronizing all this through a mix of dropbox, git, and transporting files on USBs, and and it's becoming a chore. It would be much simpler for me to just plug the USB and mount the hard disk of the PC I am using and use it's processing power without actually needing to install any OS on it.

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• Missing boot files in Windows 8

  - by Alex F. Sherman

  I had a partition with Windows 8 Release Preview, Windows' System Reserved partition and the empty space of the beginning of disk. I moved two partitions to the beginning of disk using Ubuntu Live CD and GParted. After that, the Windows Loader didn't boot and throw an error about missing files. I fixed it using the commands: bootsect /nt60 sys /force /mbr bootrec /rebuildbcd bootrec /fixboot bootrec /fixmbr When I used "Automatic repair" option from "Advanced boot" menu, it throw an error like: Windows can't fix your boot problems. For more information see file C:\Windows\System32\LogFiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt In this file I found a description of the system repair actions and at the end of file: Boot status indicates that the OS booted successfully. Now, when I use the Advanced boot menu from Windows 8 (PC settings - General - Advanced startup) I receive an error: Restart your PC to try again. It looks like something didn't load correctly. Restarting might fix the problem. If this happens more than once, you might also be able to find help by searching online for the specific error code. Erorr code: 0x8007090. 0x80070490 is the error code ERROR_NOT_FOUND. What are the missing boot files and how can I restore them? List of files in System Reserved Partition: B:\bootmgr B:\BOOTNXT B:\Boot\BCD B:\Boot\BCD.LOG B:\Boot\BCD.LOG1 B:\Boot\BCD.LOG2 B:\Boot\BOOTSTAT.DAT B:\Boot\Fonts B:\Boot\memtest.exe B:\Boot\qps-ploc B:\Boot\Resources B:\Boot\Resources\bootres.dll and many *.mui and *.ttf files.

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• Drobo FS vs Lime Technology unRAID vs FreeNAS

  - by elluca

  I already decided to by a drobo fs until I just found these two tests: http://www.digitalversus.com/data-robotics-drobo-fs-p889_9543_487.html http://www.digitalversus.com/lime-technology-unraid-p889_8992_473.html The two cons agains drobo for me: loudness price What disadvantages has the unraid stuff against the drobo fs? Has it also got that ease of use like swapping drives on the go, simply extend capacity by plugging in new drives, notify me of drive errors, disk failure protection, dynamic space of "partitions", better/worse effective capacity, etc. Which is more secure? Am I able to simply replace a bad drive with a new one on unraid? What happens if my pc fails? Lets say the cpu overheats. Since I have a complete pc which is going to be replaced, I only have to pay the software to use unraid. I am going to use my nas for: music library (how well does it integrate with iTunes? ) picture library movie library development (i need to be able to be to use time machine) I am going to use this nas with a MacBook pro. My current disks: 2x 500Gb 1x 1.5Tb 1x 2Tb On a drobo fs I would have 2.26 Tb of space. What would it be on unraid? Is FreeNAS also an alternative?

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• Port forwarding on D-Link DIR-615 super-slow, useless

  - by Jaroslav Záruba

  Hello I have replaced my old router with DIR-615 from D-Link, and now the port forwarding is so slow it makes the router practically useless for requests coming from outside of my network. Accessing the router itself (admin UI) from outside is without any issues, no delay whatsoever. But when I try to access a service residing on any of the computers in my network from outside the requests take minutes and minutes. (E.g. I can see source of my GWT-app main page, but loading additional CSS and JS files takes years.) If anyone could recommend any further diagnostics I should do to figure out what is happening it would be great. Few notes: happens with more services (web-app on Tomcat, viewing directory index via Apache) it does not make a difference whether the service is hosted on wired or wireless PC accessing the service on a localhost works fine, as does any 'inner' communication turning off firewall on target PC does not make difference either (makes sense) when I replace this router with the old one (both 192.168.1.1) everything works fine I see nothing suspicious in the router's log I believe I have the latest firmware (4.11) DIR-615 sucks, it already died once completely Regards Jarda Z.

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• Firefox 29 - how do I delete history entries visited fewer than x times

  - by lousyuser

  Context: I've been using my Firefox profile for a couple of years now. My history file has become huge, naturally. I got Firefox Sync set up between my main desktop PC and my laptop. HW configs: PC: i5-3450, 8 GB DDR3 RAM, Crucial M4 128 GB SSD laptop: Pentium SU4100, 4 GB DDR3 RAM, WD 5400 rpm HDD Accessing history entries when typing into the Awesome Bar on my desktop takes quite a long time despite the decent config, the laptop is even slower. The experience is quite unresponsive. I figured if I cleared the history up a little bit, I might avoid creating a new profile to speed things up. The question itself: to illustrate: Is there a way to delete all history entries that have been visited fewer than x (let's say 5) times and at the same time the recent visit is fewer than y (let's say 120) days old? afaik the history file is some kind of SQL database, but I'm not really sure how the data is saved, if there's a "safe way" to edit it and what the query to do what I need would look like. Thanks in advance for any help. I kept browsing through previous SuperUser questions to see if I could find relevant information. "In my Firefox profile directory, there is a filed named places.sqlite. Opening it with sqlite reveals (amongst others) the tables moz_places and moz_historyvisits. It seems that moz_historyvisits uses the primary of moz_places to refer to the URLs." As I'm unfamiliar with databases, I don't really understand the way the two tables mentioned in the quote are related. screenshot of a part of the tables I've noticed the visit_count is in a standard format, making it easy to work with. The last_visit_date looks encrypted to my naked eye, but I can't see in which way. Hope that helps, I'm at my wits' end.

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• Homegroup should be working, but doesn't

  - by Tim

  I have Win7 installed on both my PC and laptop. When I choose to make a homegroup I can go through the steps of creating, getting password, then joining it from the other computer and it says that it all connects properly. But when I go to the homegroup tab it always says no other computers connected. If I look in the settings it will say "connected to suchandsuch homegroup" but the comps won't show. Also, on my PC, when I tick the boxes in the homegroup settings on what libraries I want to share, then click on save settings, it shuts down the settings window and when I re-open it the library tick boxes are all unticked again. Yet, I have had no problems with the tick boxes stayin ticked on the laptop. I have tried cancelling and remaking the homegroup, have tried making it on both computers, and have tried disabling and re-enabling the network connectors but it still won't work. At my old house we had 3 PCs running win 7 and 2 of them could homegroup together fine but mine never could as it was getting the same problem I am getting now. I feel like I am the only one on the planet with this problem. Can anybody help?

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• Laptop accessories for mobile warrior (light power adapter & case/bag)

  - by wonsungi

  Lugging my X301 between work and home, I realized my laptop's accessories weigh more than the laptop itself! I'm ordering a 2nd AC power adapter so I don't even have to carry one at all, but I may as well get the lightest one possible. My X301 came with a pretty svelt 65W power adapter, but can anyone suggest a lighter power adapter or confirm the weights I've found below? mass vol dimensions W Model ---- ------- ----------- --- ------------------- 210g 149cm^3 108x46x30mm 65W Coolermaster [NA 65] 244g 189cm^3 140x75x18mm 65W ThermalTake [ADP65W0001] 260g 130cm^3 104x43x29mm 65W Lenovo (came with X301) 326g 198cm^3 145x76x18mm 95W Coolermaster [SNA 95] 330g 180cm^3 150x60x20mm 90W Kensington USB [K38030US] Apple's 60W power adapter seems much smaller/lighter than the PC products listed above, so I think a better PC power adapter could exist. There are much smaller 45W "netbook" adapters, but are these too weak for my X301? I would not mind if it just meant the battery couldn't charge while the laptop was on, but I am afraid there will be worse consequences. Also, I have decided to swap my Logitech Kinetik briefcase for a Tom Bihn Ristretto. Less protection, but much lighter, less bulky, and easier to carry. Any suggestions for better laptop cases/bags?

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• No internet access when using static IP

  - by Endy Tjahjono

  I have just upgraded to Windows 8.1, and after the upgrade process is finished, I can't connect to internet. I tried running the "Troubleshoot problems": It concluded that DHCP needs to be activated: I let it activate DHCP, and I got internet connection back. The problem is I want to set this PC to a certain IP address (the IP address that it has been using all this time). I am also using Hyper-V, which I suspect has something to do with this problem. After I regained internet connection, I tried running one of my Hyper-V VM. From inside the VM I can connect to internet. That VM has static IP address. I also noticed that in "Control Panel\Network and Internet\Network Connections", I usually have a network connection called vEthernet (Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Virtual Switch). I didn't find it there after upgrade. How do I set my PC to a static IP while retaining internet access in Windows 8.1? EDIT I have managed to recreate vEthernet (Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Virtual Switch) by unchecking Allow management operating system to share this network adapter in Hyper-V's Virtual Switch Manager and then checking it again. But when I changed the adapter to use static IP, it still can't connect to internet. Result of Get-NetAdapter -Name * | fl (with MAC address removed): Name : vEthernet (Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Virtual Switch) InterfaceDescription : Hyper-V Virtual Ethernet Adapter #2 InterfaceIndex : 5 MacAddress : 55-55-55-55-55-55 MediaType : 802.3 PhysicalMediaType : Unspecified InterfaceOperationalStatus : Up AdminStatus : Up LinkSpeed(Mbps) : 100 MediaConnectionState : Connected ConnectorPresent : False DriverInformation : Driver Date 2006-06-21 Version 6.3.9600.16384 NDIS 6.40 Name : Ethernet 3 InterfaceDescription : Hyper-V Virtual Ethernet Adapter #3 InterfaceIndex : 6 MacAddress : 55-55-55-55-55-56 MediaType : 802.3 PhysicalMediaType : Unspecified InterfaceOperationalStatus : Up AdminStatus : Up LinkSpeed(Gbps) : 10 MediaConnectionState : Connected ConnectorPresent : False DriverInformation : Driver Date 2006-06-21 Version 6.3.9600.16384 NDIS 6.40 Name : Ethernet InterfaceDescription : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller InterfaceIndex : 2 MacAddress : 55-55-55-55-55-57 MediaType : 802.3 PhysicalMediaType : 802.3 InterfaceOperationalStatus : Up AdminStatus : Up LinkSpeed(Mbps) : 100 MediaConnectionState : Connected ConnectorPresent : True DriverInformation : Driver Date 2013-05-10 Version 8.1.510.2013 NDIS 6.30

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• BSOD: PFN_LIST_CORRUPT and IRQ_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

  - by David Lively

  I built a desktop about a year ago that has, until a few weeks ago, been running without a hitch using Windows 7 Ultimate. Recently, the PC started occasionally rebooting with a blue screen indicating a "PFN_LIST_CORRUPT" error. Also, I've seen at least once the error IRQ_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL. I seem to remember temporarily connecting an internal DVD burner about the same time this happened. I burned a DVD for another machine and promptly removed the drive. Yesterday, I reformatted the drive and installed Win7 Ultimate x64. During the first install, the PFN_LIST_CORRUPT bluescreen reared its ugly head again. A second install attempt completed with no errors. The fact that this error happened during a clean install leads me to believe that this is not a driver or OS issue. I also ran the memory diagnostic from the Win7 32-bit install DVD. It completed both passes with no errors. Periodically, the screen will flicker, as if explorer or the video are resetting. In the event log, I see a series of 8 or so errors indicating that some services unexpectedly stopped, and were apparently reset. These include an HID service and some others (I don't have a list in front of me). The PC is a Phenom X2 3 Ghz with a 500GB Seagate drive, 4GB of Corsair XMS2 cm2x2048-6400c5c. Anyone know what would suddenly cause a couple of sticks of RAM to go bad?

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• router only assigns small number of IPs

  - by Liam Coates

  Been having a problem with my router for a while now, might just be because it is really old but here's the problem: If a lot of computers are connected to my home network someone will get disconnected. They are assigned IPs and it seems like at a certain point (and I don't know how many) you either get assigned the same IP as someone else or something else is happening and you get disconnected - until i soft reset it and it works again which takes 30 secs. I'd say my tablet, my PC, my sisters iPad, 2 laptops and a netbook is the most that can be connected at one time so that is 6 but that should be fine. The only way I know this is the problem is because I turned on my tablet and I was online on my PC, got disconnected but my tablet was still connected, this is just after i turned the tablet on so I know my router is having difficulty with IPs, it is like it assigned the same IP to the tablet which then clashed with my desktop and knocked me off. I see that sometimes the following solves it as well so I wrote a batch file with a menu to execute these commands as I have to do it so often. ipconfig /release ipconfig /flushdns ipconfig /renew Any ideas? Or shall I just get a new router as this one is old and maybe can't handle giving out that many IPs? Cheers!

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• Coffee spilled inside computer, damaged hard drive

  - by Harpreet

  Today coffee spilled over my table, and some of it (very less) reached the PC case placed under the table. I think little bit of it got inside the PC case through the front. As that happened the fan started running very fast and made noise. I tried to restart to see if it becomes fine, but the computer didn't start again. First it gave an error of "Alert! Air temperature sensor not detected" and didn't start. Next I tried again multiple times of starting the computer but then it gave some memory error. I was not able to start the computer. Incase there's a problem in hard disk or something related to memory, is there any way we can extract our work or data? I am scared if I am not able to extract my work in case some problem occurs like that. What options would I have? Help!! EDIT: I have attached the photo here and you can see the area spilt in red circle. The hard drive electronics have been affected and internal speaker may also have been affected. Any advise on cleaning and if hard drive can work? EDIT 2: Are there any professional services offered to extract data from blemished hard disk, like this one, in case I am not able to run it personally?

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• Are These Parts compatible?

  - by ell

  I have never assembled a PC before, although I have taken an old one apart and replaced a few parts in others here and there so I have (very) limited experience. I have been looking to make a pc and here are the parts I might buy: Foxconn P45AL Intel P45 (Socket 775) DDR2 Motherboard (with onboard sound I believe) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 460 OC 768MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card Already have 2 1gb sticks of dual channel DDR2 memory Intel Core 2 Quad Q8400 LGA775 'Yorkfield' 2.66GHz 4MB-cache Processor Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB SATA-II 32MB Cache Hard Drive Antec Dark Fleet Series DF10 Gaming Enclosure – Black I already have monitor, mouse, keyboard and DVD/CD drive Akasa Freedom Power 1000W Modular Power Supply I have never done this before so feel free to laugh at me for getting something obvious wrong, forgetting a vital component etc. but is all of this compatible? And have I gone overkill on the PSU, if so, please recommend one. Thanks in advance, ell. EDIT: Added PSU which I forgot to mention EDIT: I would be using this to surf the internet, write e-mails, chat, word process, play games such as team fortress 2 & spring rts (at highest graphics hopefully), some 3d modelling in blender, some opengl programming, and image editing in GIMP.

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• sata hard drive failed

  - by M. Shehryar

  Dear friend, initially my dual core PC started shutdown and re-start by itself after adding 1 GB ram and up-grading the graphic card. Then refused to boot. I restored the window ghost but failed to boot. I tried to install new window but installation failed after coping the window files. tried to install old vista lonhorn. It inspected found errors, fixed them but ultimatly failed to be installed. Once again restored the ghost through acronis but failed to boot. At the end attached as slave with another pc but it was not visible. Even acronis could not see it or its partitions. Only bios can see it. It seems that no file system is available on the drive. My data on drive is very important. Please help me how to revover my data. Drive brand is Samsung, cap is 160 GB and file system was NTFS.

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• sata hard drive failed

  - by M. Shehryar

  Dear friend, initially my dual core PC started shutdown and re-start by itself after adding 1 GB ram and up-grading the graphic card. Then refused to boot. I restored the window ghost but failed to boot. I tried to install new window but installation failed after coping the window files. tried to install old vista lonhorn. It inspected found errors, fixed them but ultimatly failed to be installed. Once again restored the ghost through acronis but failed to boot. At the end attached as slave with another pc but it was not visible. Even acronis could not see it or its partitions. Only bios can see it. It seems that no file system is available on the drive. My data on drive is very important. Please help me how to revover my data. Drive brand is Samsung, cap is 160 GB and file system was NTFS.

  Read the article

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