Search Results

Search found 5509 results on 221 pages for 'sound effects'.

Page 185/221 | < Previous Page | 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192  | Next Page >

• mysql master-master setup as a way to simply master-slave promotion

  - by Chris Go

  I'm trying to see if the following plan is viable. Goal here is to be able to do HA (uptime) and not necessarily for load -- writes are fine on one MySQL 5.5 server (with innodb) but not really possible when the database is down. Currently, I have a master-slave replication setup which works fine except it doesn't have automatic promotion (obviously). what I am planning on doing is setup master-master replication to possibly do this "automatic promotion" using Amazon Route 53 DNS Failover (Health checks). What I am trying to avoid is to NOT have to do the auto-increment trick because the "business folks" got used to the auto-incrementing PK as consecutive numbers (yeah, I know this is bad but data is from 2004). So, setup the master-master replication WITHOUT the auto-increment collision prevention bit. The primary master is db1.domain.com and secondary master is db2.domain.com In Amazon Route 53, setup DNS Failover record for db.domain.com - primary failover is db1.domain.com - with a TCP healthcheck on IP address port 3306 - secondary failover is db2.domain.com - with a TCP healthcheck on IP address port 3306 Most of the time (99%), unless tcp://db1.domain.com:3306 is dead, db1.domain.com will be served up on DNS hits to db.domain.com. In fact, hopefully this is 100%. The possible downsides of this is the loss of a primary key (collision) and I think I am OK with losing one order. We are a low data volume B2B business and can just call our client up if this occurs (like an order disappearing). Does this sound like a good plan? Then I will also run another slave replication on db1.domain.com as "master" to a slave-db1.domain.com -- not sure why, maybe for heavy SELECTs?

  Read the article

• How can I calculate power consumption of my PC in Watt?

  - by Jitendra vyas

  How can I calculate power consumption of my PC in Watt, to prove my House owner ( I live on rent) , my PC doesn't consume much power? He blames me for Huge power bills even he too use Fridge, A.C. etc and his son watch the TV all the time. We both share one Power meter so for bill we pay 50%-50% but He is saying I use PC all the time even night i keep on for downloading. I just want to calculate power consumption of my PC then will calculate monthly expense of unit as per my City's per unit price for power. I've Windows: Microsoft Windows XP Professional 5.1.2600 Service Pack 3 Memory (RAM): 960 MB CPU Info: AMD Sempron(tm) Processor 2500+ CPU Speed: 1399.0 MHz Sound card: Vinyl AC'97 Audio (WAVE) Display Adapters: VIA/S3G UniChrome Pro IGP | NetMeeting driver | RDPDD Chained DD Monitors: 1 - 17inch LCD - LG Screen Resolution: 1280 X 768 - 32 bit Network: Network Present Network Adapters: Bluetooth Device (Personal Area Network) #2 | WAN (PPP/SLIP) Interface CD / DVD Drives: I: ELBY CLONEDRIVE COM Ports: COM1 | COM2 | COM7 | COM8 | COM9 | COM10 LPT Ports: LPT1 Mouse: 3 Button Wheel Mouse Present Hard Disks: C: 29.3GB | D: 29.3GB | E: 97.7GB | F: 97.7GB | G: 211.9GB USB Controllers: 5 host controllers. Firewire (1394): 1 host controllers. Manufacturer: Phoenix Technologies, LTD Product Make: MS-7142 AC Power Status: OnLine BIOS Info: AT/AT COMPATIBLE | 01/18/06 | VIAK8M - 42302e31 Motherboard: MICRO-STAR INTERNATIONAL CO., LTD MS-7142 Modem: ZTE USB Modem FFFE CDMA #2

  Read the article

• Are these computer parts compatible?

  - by Jcubed

  so I'm building a computer and i want to know if all these parts are compatible. case: http://www.amazon.com/Xion-Gaming-Steel-Tower-Computer/dp/B002139YSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270923001&sr=8-1 power supply: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-W0121RU-PurePower-Version-PCI-Express/dp/B0015MCMRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270924656&sr=1-1 motherboard: http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-EP45-UD3P-LGA-Intel-Motherboard/dp/tech-data/B001HH2WE2/ref=de_a_smtd processor: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Processor-1333MHz-LGA775-BX80570E8400/dp/B00116SLYY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270924524&sr=1-1 hard drive: http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Black-WD1001FALS/dp/B001C271MA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270924586&sr=8-1 DVD/Blu Ray Dive: http://www.amazon.com/LITE-Blu-ray-Internal-Optical-iHOS104/dp/tech-data/B002EE996Q/ref=de_a_smtd Graphics Card: http://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Radeon-100252HDMI-PCI-Express-Graphics/dp/B001SJLLTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270924798&sr=1-1-spell Sound Card: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-SB0570L4-Blaster-Audigy/dp/B000LP0R3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270924850&sr=1-1 Memory: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-TWIN2X4096-8500C5DF-Dominator-PC2-8500-1066MHz/dp/B0014Z0Q04/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1270924896&sr=1-1-spell OS: Ubuntu 64-bit

  Read the article

• Random Hard Freeze of Windows 7 (is Kaspersky to be blamed for this?)

  - by Christian Ivicevic

  The last few weeks I experienced a new strange behavior of my computer. Sometimes Windows 7 just freezes with no real reason at all. While listening to music for example the playback hangs and you can hear a very nasty sound. Neither mouse nor keyboard input is handled and everything is just stuck. Using Ubuntu this does not happen, so I think it is just a matter of driver issues or a Windows 7 bug. Furthermore I am really suspicious about Kaspersky (Internet Security 11) and so I let it perform a complete virus scan while no other app is running. At about 50% it happened again and I needed to restart the computer by holding the power button the bad way... A really weird thing is that playing Skyrim this happened once, however music playback did not stop. Only the framerate dropped to 0 and sometimes for a few seconds I am able to move. Therefore I am really confused as furthermore no bluescreen pops up. Memtest told me that everything seems to be alright... Can anyone explain me which data you need about my hardware and software (and which tools tools to use to gather the informatik) to be able to provide any help on my problem?

  Read the article

• Cursor lag when mouse cursor changes?

  - by Mathias Lykkegaard Lorenzen

  Cursor lag issue Introduction I'm experiencing a newly arrived problem lately that frustrates me a lot. The computer I bought is a Clevo 150ERM. Two of my friends bought the same machine, and are experiencing the same issue. The computer came with Windows 7. There, I had no issues. Then, when we all switched to Windows 8, they had the mouse problem and I didn't. That is until after 4 or 5 months when I decided to install the RTM driver of my Intel graphics chip, and the latest Nvidia driver. I also installed the latest version of Skype that just released (Skype 6 and Skype for Metro). This basically leads me to conclude that the issue is not hardware-prone, and is not based on the operating system itself, rather the drivers or components that follow with it. Description of the issue The issue itself (lag with the mouse) happens whenever the cursor icon changes. For instance, if I keep hovering from and to a textfield (and the cursor changes into a caret and then back to a mouse), it stops for 200 milliseconds while it changes the icon. An example is if I follow the mouse in the pattern shown by the arrows below. When crossing the window border, the cursor changes into a "resize window" cursor for a short while, making the cursor lag. This doesn't sound like much, but it happens every time the cursor changes (even if it's to just move the mouse somewhere else, and accidentally make it cross a window border from where the resize cursor shows etc). What do you suggest I try?

  Read the article

• laptop motherboard "shorts" when connected to adapter

  - by Bash

  Disclaimer: I'm sort of a noob, and this is a long post. Thank you all in advance! summary: completely dead laptop with no signs of life whatsoever (suddenly, for no apparent reason) Here's the deal: Lenovo Y470 (only a few months old with no water or shock damage). It stopped working suddenly (no lights, no sound, even when connecting adapter with or without battery). I tried a different adapter (same electrical rating), but no luck. I disassembled the thing completely, and tried plugging in the adapter and looking for signs of life with all different combinations of components installed (tried all combinations of RAM, CPU, USB power cords, screen, etc plugged in). no luck. Then, I noticed (as I was plugging in the adapter to try for the millionth time) that there was a "spark" for an instant when I first connect the adapter to the power jack. The adapter's LED would then flash (indicating it isn't working or charging). So, I thought the power jack has a short of some sort (due to bad soldering or something). Scanned virtually every single component on the motherboard, and tested the power jack connections with a multimeter. No shorts or damage to anything on the entire motherboard. Now I'm thinking I need to replace the motherboard. But, my actual question: What does this "shorting" when connecting the adapter signify? (btw, the voltage across the power connections and current through it drop to virtually zero when the adapter is connected and "sparks", and they stay that way). The bewildering thing is that there are no damaged components, and the voltage across adapter terminals returns to normal after I disconnect it (so it's not damaged). Please take a look at the pictures (of the motherboard's power connection and nearby components) and see if I'm missing something completely obvious... Links to pictures and laptop and motherboard model: pictures on DropBox Motherboard model: LA-6881P Laptop model: Lenovo IdeaPad Y470

  Read the article

• iOS 6 in-app email does not send from within any app that supports it

  - by Joe Termine

  A strange problem -- Last night I upgraded to the final release of iOS 6 on my iPhone 4S and my iPad 2. When I open an app that allows you to send emails from within the app (e.g. adobe Reader, TurboScan, etc.) -- doesn't matter which one -- I am prompted with the email dialog from within the app, I can compose the message, but when I go to send one of two things will happen: either the email sending sound will "swoosh" and the dialog will close (leading me to think it worked) or some apps with good error handling will say there is an "error sending email." The error logs on my device are not reporting errors. It's just that the email doesn't really send. I have two Exchange mail boxes on these devices. One connects to a corporate network hosting on-premise exchange 2007 and the other connects to Gmail over the exchange interface. Have attempted to delete and re-pair these accounts (one at a time) without any change. I'm wondering if others are experiencing this problem, or whether I should just wipe the devices and chalk it up to (another) failed upgrade. Thoughts much appreciated. Joe

  Read the article

• Control Panel for MySQL and PostgreSQL server

  - by jfreak53

  I am looking for a control panel for a CentOS system that will allow me to add user's that can control their "own" MySQL and PostgreSQL Databases. I don't want to have to spend the $25 a month for cpanel on a dedicated to do this. Plus cPanel comes with all the rest like webserver and email that I don't need these to have. Basically I want to be able to create users that can create their own databases and only see those that they have created. I want to be able to control their disk space as with most panels. They need to be able to create their own DB users as well. Kloxo won't work as it doesn't natively support PostgreSQL. I tried straight PHPMyAdmin, but it won't let the user's create their own DB's unless they can also see everyone else's. VirtualMin I just can't get to work at all! ha ha I installed it an though it works great for itself if a user signs into Usermin they can see all DB's. If they sign into PHPMyAdmin (which basically means any program that directly connects to MySQL) they see all DB's. If they login to virtualmin then yes, they only see their's. But that won't work. I can't seem to think of another way to do this. I can use webmin and usermin directly but PHPMyAdmin again let's the user's I create either see only one DB and create none, or see all DB's. So that sound's like a permission problem in MySQL and PostgreSQL.

  Read the article

• New Computer freezing up at random

  - by Benjamin Frost

  Since I built my system about 4 weeks ago I'v been getting random freezes, Sometimes it can happen directly after startup and sometimes it wont freeze up for 3-4 days of 24/7 running. It seems to be happening under all stress loads but mainly when the CPU is under 10% load. It doesn't give me a BSOD or anything, it simply just freezes and repeats the last sound before the freeze until I shut it down by the power button. I'v re-seated everything in the system except the CPU, Cleaned the RAM sockets and gold fittings. None of the components have been clocked above their factory settings as of yet, don't want to overclock them until I sort out these freezes. Temps are all well under the rated max temps, the highest the temps have been are below CPU: Low load: 16-21°C Full Load (100%) 40-43°C *(From HWMonitor by CPUID) GPU 1: Low Load: 25-30°C Full Load (100%): 45-50°C GPU 2: Low Load: 23-27°C Full Load (100%): 45-50°C *(GPU Temps from Catalyst Control Center) General Case temps Rear: 18-20°C Mid: 20-21°C Front (HDD/SSD Bays): 14-19°C (Case temps may be a little off as it's from the Kaze master pro fan controller) I have Un-installed EVERY driver for Motherboard, GPU & Soundcard and Re-installed twice. Windows is all up to date. To date i'v tried the following Running Memtest for 24 hrs straight, No errors Running Memtest on each individual RAM modules, No errors Reseated everything except the CPU Cleaned DIMM Sockets and Gold inputs Tested the Graphics cards 1 at a time Re-arranged all the SATA devices to run on Chipset controlled ports Re-installing all drivers OS: Win7 Professional 64bit Motherboard: ASRock X79 Extreme9 CPU: i7 3930k 3.2GHz GPU: Sapphire 7950 OC Edition V2 (2 card Crossfire) RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws Z F3-17000CL11Q-16GBZL 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 Boot Drive: OCZ Agility 4 128GB Data Drive 1: Western Digital Black 2TB Data Drive 2: Western Digital Black 2TB Data Drive 3: Western Digital Green 3TB Power Supply: Corsair AX1200 Gold

  Read the article

• Kernel panic while loading Mac OS X on VMWare

  - by Vladimir Gritsenko

  I'm trying to run Mac OS X 10.6.3 on VMWare 7.1 from within Windows 7 64 bit. Trying to run the OS X doesn't work - shortly after booting VMWare announces the machine's death with this pop-up message: The CPU has been disabled by the guest operating system. You will need to power off or reset the virtual machine at this point. The console has a more interesting announcement: The real-time clock was not properly initialized on your system! With a dump of the detected CPU speed (~2.9 GHz), FSB (~94 MHz) and bus ratio (31). Somehow, the code that panics is documented in an accidental .diff file here. Apparently, it commits seppuku if the bus ratio is greater than 30. I underclocked my E6500 to a slower speed, but this apparently didn't make any difference. I can think of two possibilities right now: The CPU info being read is constant, and defines the maximum ability of the CPU. In which case it appears I'm screwed. VMWare presents its own CPU info to the machine, which I can perhaps somehow change. If so, how? If these sound completely off, that's because I'm a real newbie in these matters. Here's hoping you guys can show me the light :-)

  Read the article

• Rebooting access point via SSH with pexpect... hangs. Any ideas?

  - by MiniQuark

  When I want to reboot my D-Link DWL-3200-AP access point from my bash shell, I connect to the AP using ssh and I just type reboot in the CLI interface. After about 30 seconds, the AP is rebooted: # ssh [email protected] [email protected]'s password: ******** Welcome to Wireless SSH Console!! ['help' or '?' to see commands] Wireless Driver Rev 4.0.0.167 D-Link Access Point wlan1 -> reboot Sound's great? Well unfortunately the ssh client process never exits, for some reason (maybe the AP kills the ssh server a bit too fast, I don't know). My ssh client process is completely blocked (even if I wait for several minutes, nothing happens). I always have to wait for the AP to reboot, then open another shell, find the ssh client process ID (using ps aux | grep ssh) then kill the ssh process using kill <pid>. That's quite annoying. So I decided to write a python script to reboot the AP. The script connects to the AP's CLI interface via ssh, using python-pexpect, and it tries to launch the "reboot" command. Here's what the script looks like: #!/usr/bin/python # usage: python reboot_ap.py {host} {user} {password} import pexpect import sys import time command = "ssh %(user)s@%(host)s"%{"user":sys.argv[2], "host":sys.argv[1]} session = pexpect.spawn(command, timeout=30) # start ssh process response = session.expect(r"password:") # wait for password prompt session.sendline(sys.argv[3]) # send password session.expect(" -> ") # wait for D-Link CLI prompt session.sendline("reboot") # send the reboot command time.sleep(60) # make sure the reboot has time to actually take place session.close(force=True) # kill the ssh process The script connects properly to the AP (I tried running some other commands than reboot, they work fine), it sends the reboot command, waits for one minute, then kills the ssh process. The problem is: this time, the AP never reboots! I have no idea why. Any solution, anyone?

  Read the article

• Are there any Microsoft Exchange Clients for iOS and Android that store their local data in an encrypted manner?

  - by Zac B

  I don't feel like this is a product recommendation question, more of a "does this tech even exist and is it feasible" question, but if I'm wrong, feel free to give this question the boot. Context: Our company has a bunch of traveling employees who access the company's Exchange server via thier iDevices or android phones, but because of the data protection laws in the state where our company is based (and the nature of the data our company works with), a recent security audit found that all mobile devices (laptops, phones, etc) operated by our company need to have all company correspondence and related data encrypted all the time. For laptops, that was easy: BitLocker or TrueCrypt, problem solved. For phones and tablets, however, I'm stumped. Sure, you can put lock screens/passwords on the phones, but the data is still accessible via external extraction, as law enforcement authorities already know. Question: Are there any clients for Microsoft Exchange that run on iOS or Android which store local data encrypted? The people using our mobile devices do a lot of their work while offline, so just giving them OWA access with SSL connection security isn't enough. Are there apps/technologies that present an additional login credential prompt to decrypt locally stored data in the app's storage area on the phone? My gut reaction when I started looking into this was "that doesn't sound like something Apple would allow into the App Store", but I've been wrong before...

  Read the article

• charging light on in laptop with battery removed.

  - by Jus12

  I hope this is the right place for this question. I have an LG R310 laptop. Recently the adapter connector started playing up, so I got a second hand replacement adapter of the same rating. The adapter was a cheap type (I know I made a mistake) and faulty.. it made a low buzzing sound when plugged in and not connected to the laptop. It didn't make the noise when connected to the laptop. Foolishly I used this adapter for several weeks. One day the adapter stopped working. The led didnt work and it was not charging. It had also drained the laptop's battery to 0%. I then got an original replacement adapter. Now I can use the laptop on power but the battery does not charge. The charging light does not come on. The interesting thing is that when I remove the battery the charging light comes on and stays on after I insert the battery back (the battery still does not charge). I need to know if the faulty adapter damaged the motherboard or if its just a problem with the battery. I have a multimeter and I prefer not to open the laptop. Thanks in advance.

  Read the article

• Outlook 2007 "Mark as Not Junk" Dialog Confusion

  - by David

  Outlook 2007's "Not Junk" button opens the "Mark as Not Junk" dialog. The dialog works correctly if I keep the "Always trust e-mail from <email address>" option checked. That is, the message is removed from the Junk folder and returns to the Inbox. However, if I uncheck the "Always trust" box, pressing OK dismisses the dialog, but nothing else happens. Why not? According to Outlook help, "When you mark a message as not junk, you are given the option of adding the sender or the mailing list name to your Safe Senders List or Safe Recipients List." That sure makes it sound like this is just an option, and not necessary for the core functionality of the action. I really don't want to trust a (possibly forged) From: address, but I do want my mail back in the Inbox. I could manually drag it, but I'm assuming that marking a message as not junk also trains some kind of bayesian filter. Am I mistaken? Thanks.

  Read the article

• Completely automated DVD insert-rip-compress-eject workflow

  - by Kevin L.

  (Partially inspired by this question.) Background: I have a PC hidden away behind an HD LCD in custom-built entertainment center. The only visible part of the PC is an external DVD drive, mounted above the Wii. The PC happens to have Windows XP on it; Hackintoshing and Linux might be possible, but I've had issues with drivers for the sound card before. Let's just assume that OS X and Linux are a no-go unless they provide a truly awesome and simple solution for this particular problem. Goal: I would like to have a completely automated workflow for ripping DVDs. Something like this: Push the eject button on the DVD drive, insert the DVD. PC recognizes that this is a video DVD (as opposed to data). PC rips DVD to hard drive. PC finishes ripping, and ejects the DVD tray. PC compresses DVD image into some format that an Xbox 360 can read. PC copies finished compressed video file to a particular folder, so that it can be read into a WMP11 library and seamlessly played by the Xbox 360. PC cleans up all temporary files. Done. The impetus to have this be completely automated is that I’ll never need to switch the TV to the PC’s input and fiddle with the wireless keyboard. That’s just needless user intervention. The UI doesn’t have to be pretty. Nor do I care about speed. And I can probably bridge several of the gaps with some creative Perl use. But it seems likely that many (or all) of the parts should already exist. Any thoughts?

  Read the article

• Can't Get Mac Mini to turn on - no screen, no beep, only the fan, power light, and optical drive noi

  - by pibyers

  I have an Intel-based Mac mini mid-2007 (Model A1176). This is the computer my kids use so I don't use it regularly. The computer had been working fine until one day my kids told me that it no longer works. The computer will not boot up. When I turn it on the fan turns, the white power light in the front turns on, and there is a sound that appears to be from the optical drive (rather than hard drive). I don't get anything to the monitor, nor do I get any dings or other start up sounds from the computer. Here is what I've tried thus far to no avail: 1) Swapped out the monitors early on since I figured that was my weak link - no change 2) Reset the PMU - no change 3) Tried to boot up from the System Disk - The mini loaded the dvd into the drive, but nothing else (I can't eject the disk so I can put it back) 3) Start up the computer in target mode connected to another mac - I tried this too, but I never received a chime or the disk show up on the other mac. I'm about out of ideas apart from scraping the computer. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try? Again, nothing has been done to the computer in at least 6 months when I upgraded the RAM. I'm also still on Leopard. Thanks.

  Read the article

• Logitech webcam device only recognised by one software, without drivers

  - by Ben Franchuk

  A couple weeks ago I purchased a Logitech webcam at a garage sale; It did not come with any driver DVDs or anything like that. I plugged it in, turned on my computer, and continued work as usual. I did not at the time (and still have not) gotten any drivers for the device. Recently, though, I started up an audio software named as Cubase, only to find that it was picking up audio reads off of... something. I checked my sound card, and everything else plugged into my computer, but couldn't find where in the world this audio was being picked up from. There were no microphones listed in the device managers, and no "unknown devices" or whatever. Everything seemed as it always was. Running out of ideas, i blew an air-horn directly into the general area of the webcam, located directly in front of me. Sure enough, the audio peaked, indicating that the microphone was definitely in the webcam and that Cubase was somehow picking up this audio, even without drivers. The software lists the device as a "Universal USB Microphone". Adobe Audition, Soundbooth, and other audio applications cannot find the device either. Why is it that this one software (Cubase) can use this device without a driver, while every other piece of software on the computer can't? Not even the operating system can recognize it. Windows 7 Professional x64 bit

  Read the article

• On a failing hard drive, I am able to view data but unable to copy it - why?

  - by Tom

  I have a 2.5" external hard drive that is failing. It's not making the expected 'clicking' noise that most hard drives and I am able to view the data, but I am unable to actually retrieve the data. I attempted to use SpinRite in order to access the data on the drive, but it didn't like the external drive. When I view the drive's property page, the drive shows that it's used space is at 100% and that it has 0 bytes available; however, the progress indicator under the drive icon in Windows Explorer shows that it's roughly 50% full (which is correct). When I attempt to run Windows' "Error Checking" tool and attempt to "scan for an attempt recovery of bad sectors," the tool begins to run then immediately closes with no error message. I am able to browse the contents of the drive using Windows Explorer. When I begin to try copying any given single file, the copy process begins, an indicator starts, and then the copy fails with no real error message. The Disk Management page in Computer Management under Control Panel also shows this drive has being 'Healthy.' I dropped the drive off at a data recovery store and they said that "The data seems to be intact, but an internal failure is preventing any information from being retrieved." They offered to provide me references to a data recovery specialist. I've also attempted to run CHKDSK on the drive (with and without arguments) but it returns the following error: The type of the filesystem is RAW. CHKDSK is not available for RAW drives. Before going the route of more expensive data recovery, I'm wondering if these symptoms sound familiar to anyone? Other questions... I'm willing to continue trying tools such as TestDisk and/or PhotoRec (as the majority of the data that I'd like to salvage are photos) but how long I should expect either tool to run given approximately 400GB of data? I'm also comfortable using Linux so I welcome any suggestions for utilities or tools and strategies with which you've had success.

  Read the article

• Laptop recommendation - Portable Gaming

  - by ivan

  So, I'm looking for a new laptop (http://superuser.com/questions/116869/toshiba-satellite-u500-totally-damaged-lcd). My requirements for a new Laptop are: -good keyboard(illuminated) and touchpad (multi-media keys included, should be better than toshiba u500) -good graphics card, with system rating of 6.3 and up for gaming graphics (my Toshiba U500 has 6.3). I used to run some heavy games on my Toshiba U500 with ATI Mobility Radeon 4570 with 512 mb VRAM but the framerates are not that nice on high settings. -Decent CPU but I think all new Core i3, i5, i7 can run most of recent resource intensive games (My Toshiba U500 has a Core 2 Duo T6500, 2.13 Ghz) I'm also looking for a long-term reliability, good sound quality, lots of fast RAM of-course(4GB DDR3 - 1066Mhz and up) and a clear looking LED screen with a decent resolution. (I can accomodate a laptop with screen size of 13-inch upto 15.6 inch, and I don't want it to be heavy because I might be taking it outdoors) I'm actually impressed when I saw HP Pavilion DV6t but the screen resolution seems to be a little too small for 15.6 inch. The Pavilion DV3 are also good but I want to know if there other options. Looking for some opinions.. Thanks. :D

  Read the article

• Linux: Managing users, groups and applications

  - by RN

  I am fairly new to linux admin so this may sound quite a noob question. I have a VPS account with a root access I need to install Tomcat, Java on it and later other open source applications as well. Installation for all of these is as simple as unzipping the .gz in a folder. My questions are A) Where should I keep all these programs? In Windows, I typically have a folder called programs under c:\ where I unzip all applications. I plan to have something similar here as well. Currently, I have all these under apps folder under/root- which I am guessing is a bad idea B) To what group should Tom belong to ? I would need a user - say Tom who can simply execute these programs. Do I need to create a new group? or just add Tom to some existing group ? C) Finally- Am I doing something really stupid by installing all these application by simply unzipping them? I mean an alternate way would be to use Yup or RPM or something like that to install these applications. Given my familiarity and (tight budget) that seems too much to me. I feel uncomfortable running commands which i don't understand too well

  Read the article

• What parts should I get for an ASRock x58 Extreme motherboard

  - by Brad Gilbert

  I just received an ASRock x58 Extreme motherboard, for my post on this question. It was a 2009 Tom's Hardware recommended buy. It is a Core i7 motherboard, with an X58 Express Chipset. It uses DDR3 RAM. What I want to know is, what parts should I get to finish it off. I'm looking for some good bargains, because of a lack of funds. The most taxing game I will probably play on it is OpenTTD. The only parts I currently have that are compatible: A Dynex 400W power supply. It appears to be an ATX 2.1 power supply, with the addition of a -5 rail. Apparently designed to be compatible with most ATX-style motherboards. Several PCI add-in cards. Mostly 10/100 Network cards Some sound cards Some video cards with a VGA connector Plenty of PATA drives. 8 GB - 80 GB Hard-drives A dozen or-so CD-ROM drives, only a handful of them are CD-RW drives. One DVD-ROM drive I have one LCD, with a 15 pin VGA connector, which I salvaged from the dump. The only thing wrong with it was some dead capacitors. It also has a stuck pixel.

  Read the article

• BIOS corrupted? How to proceed? Acer Travelmate 290

  - by dtlussier

  I have a older ACER Travelmate 290 (manufactured in 2002 or 2003), which I recently tried to upgrade to Ubuntu 9.10. After doing the upgrade process it appeared as if I had a problem with my x server configuration, as on the first reboot post-install I heard the Ubuntu startup sound, but had a black screen. I thought I would then reboot again to drop down into text-mode to trouble shoot the x configuration problem. However, when I tried rebooting, something went wrong and since then when I start up the machine I get absolutely nothing except the first hardware check (i.e. HDD light flashes, CD/DVD drive spins, etc.). Other than that the screen remains totally black and I have no HDD or processor activity at all. I have tried restarting it a number of time holding down all kinds of key combinations to try and coax it into the BIOS (if possible) with no luck. I have also tried putting in both a live Linux disc and a Windows install disk without any luck. With a disk in the drive it will spin for a few seconds and then stop. All this has lead me to suspect that the BIOS is somehow corrupt (not sure about the right terminology). I have tried putting a new BIOS image and installer program downloaded from ACER on a USB key to see if it will run when I start up the machine, but no luck. I'm not sure if this method of interacting/updating/flashing the BIOS will work outside of Windows/DOS as both OSs are mentioned kind of ambiguously in the documentation. I have also taken the laptop case apart and inspected the various cards and cannot find any obviously burned out components. I'm not sure how to proceed at this point in terms of components to try, or how to try and load a new BIOS image onto the board. Any advice here would be great, especially from those with experience with this particular line of laptops. Thanks!

  Read the article

• Can't log in after restoring from Time Machine

  - by Jay Conrod

  My friend uses a Macbook Pro with Snow Leopard 10.6.2. She uses both FileVault and Time Machine to preserve her data. Recently, she suffered a hard disk failure. After restoring from Time Machine using the Snow Leopard install disk, she gets the following error when logging in: You are unable to log in to the FileVault user account at this time. Logging into the account failed because an error occurred. When examining the file system through Terminal, I noticed her home directory is not present: there is no /Users/username directory, or the FileVault .sparsebundle file that's supposed to be there. When using Time Machine.app on /Users, it appears as if her home directory as never there. Additionally, I did a search on the backup disk with the following command: sudo find /Volumes/backup -name '*.sparsebundle' No results. She told me that after working with some large data files, Time Machine would come on, and it would sound like it was transferring a lot of data to the hard disk. Time Machine must have been doing something, right? How can we recover her files? Are they still there?

  Read the article

• 24TB RAID 6 configuration

  - by Phil

  I am in charge of a new website in a niche industry that stores lots of data (10+ TB per client, growing to 2 or 3 clients soon). We are considering ordering about $5000 worth of 3TB drives (10 in a RAID 6 configuration and 10 for backup), which will give us approximately 24 TB of production storage. The data will be written once and remain unmodified for the lifetime of the website, so we only need to do a backup one time. I understand basic RAID theory, however I am not experienced with it. My question is, does this sound like a good configuration? What potential problems could this setup cause? Also, what is the best way to do a one-time backup? Have two RAID 6 arrays, one for offsite backup and one for production? Or should I backup the RAID 6 production array to a JBOD? EDIT: The data server is running Windows 2008 Server x64. EDIT 2: To reduce rebuild time, what would you think about using two RAID 5's instead of one RAID 6?

  Read the article

• iBook G4 has black screen on boot

  - by Jonathan Patt

  I have an old iBook G4 (A1054, 1.2 GHz) which has issues when it loses power or is shut off. If the battery drains—which happens quickly, as its remaining capacity is very low—it enters some sort of weird mode where it's not really awake (the screen is black, can't do anything) but it has no pulsing light indicating it's asleep either. The only way to exit this mode is to hold down the power button for ten seconds until it shuts off, and attempt rebooting it. Almost always, however, it makes the sound of the optical drive starting up, and then doesn't continue past that point. The screen doesn't come on, and things like resetting PRAM don't work. Occasionally a fan comes on loudly for a second or two. This sometimes seems to correspond with my pressing down on the rear-right casing, above the power jack. In the past, shutting it off, disconnecting it from power, removing the battery and waiting for 30 minutes would do the trick, but this time I have done that several times, letting it sit for up to several hours before retrying, to no avail. Any ideas?

  Read the article

< Previous Page | 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192  | Next Page >