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• Using my old PC as a web/file server?

  - by Garrett

  I have an old desktop computer that I've been trying to sell for AGES. I guess nobody is looking for computers because it was advertised at a dirt cheap price on craigslist, local papers, etc. Anyways, I was wondering if it would be worth it to set it up as a home file server, a web dev server (I have a web host for actual production use), and maybe host a few server applications (ex: ventrillo). The computer is actually an old Dell that I cannibalized after the motherboard being destroyed by lightning, so it has fairly new parts in it. The specs are: P4 3.4GHz w/ HT and Artic Cooling Freezer 7 3GB DDR2 533 RAM 80GB hdd (will upgrade the hard drive if it's even worth using as a server) basic dvd rom 430 Watt Thermaltake PSU (it might be important to note that it is only 60% efficiency) ATI Radeon x600 256MB Antec 300 case It's not a really beefy machine, I just can't see giving it away or putting it in the corner to just collect dust. I have Windows Server 2008 R2 Standard and I am confident in my skills in operating most Linux operating systems. I'd also be using it to tinker with when I learn new things in my server admin classes (I'm finishing my 2nd year in college at the moment so I'm still learning) Also, my house is quite old and the electrical wiring is pretty poor (it MIGHT be up to code, then again, where I live most people don't even know what regulations are or let alone know how to spell it...) Would it be safe to leave it running all day and is it going to run up my electric bill because of the PSU efficiency? I only have 5mbit cable internet, but I won't be running very bandwidth intense services on it so it should be ok. I should elaborate on why I am concerned about the power. The circuits should be fine, but I'm more concerned about fire hazard. What is the likelihood that the server could cause an electrical fire? Again, thank you all for the feedback!

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• Motherboard running rather hot while gaming

  - by I take Drukqs

  Case: Antec 1200 Mobo: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU: Intel i7 950 (stock cooler) GPU: EVGA GeForce 570 GTX RAM: 2x 2 GB (4 GB total) DDR3 dual-channel Corsair OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit This is my first build and it's brand new. I had no problems putting it all together in a few hours one evening and I consider myself to be pretty good with computers. Not to brag or anything like that! Just saying I've been fiddling with them since I was in diapers and I have a good amount of experience under my belt, just not with certain things yet. Recently while playing many of the latest games maxed out without a hitch my motherboard has been running hot and like anyone who's ever built a computer it scares the life out of me. I checked HWMonitor and saw that my motherboard sometimes reached temperatures of around 52 - 78c (the number 78 obviously being what's scaring me). I was wondering if such a temperature is normal and if not what the problem could be. Air flow in my case is phenomenal and besides having to ship back a faulty GPU and reseat my CPU my first build has been a very large success which I am enjoying tremendously. There is literally almost no dust in my case due to it being very new as previously mentioned and my RAM sticks are in the correct slots for dual-channel mode. My cable management is pretty great in my opinion with only cables from my PSU lingering in the bottom of the case. At any given opportunity I ran my cables behind my mobo. Air flow should definitely not be a problem because my CPU only goes up to about 60c and my GPU only goes up to about 80c. Thank you very much in advance.

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• CPU temperatures high on new build after gaming

  - by Reznor

  My friend had a problem with his computer a while back. His games were crashing, even within the menus. He was stumped as to what the problem was, so I posted on here requesting help. He found out the day later, when his computer would start up but wouldn't display anything on the screen. His video card must have came screwed up. So, he got a replacement. Now, there's a new problem. His temperatures, which were acceptable before, are now insanely high. His GPU temperature runs 70-80c, which is understandable considering he's running his games maxed out, but the real problem here is his processor and motherboard temperatures. All four of his cores are running at 88-90c after coming out of a game. His motherboard temperature was also 70c at one point. In terms of cooling, his case should definitely be adequate. He has an Antec Twelve Hundred. He's using stock fans. The cable management in his case is very good; better than average. He's using the stock heatsink with the processor too, but note, it was fine before the replacement, so it isn't like there's some inherent problem. He has checked the case too. Everything's fine! No cables in the way. The heatsink is seated properly. He turned his case fans up to high, as well, but the temperatures are persisting. Could the processor be overheating due to running games maxed out? Any ideas?

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• Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

  - by Jeff M

  I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

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• Compaq Motherboard gives "CPU Fan Error"

  - by John

  I have a motherboard for a HP business desktop dx5150 PC. The model written on the board is "MS-7050" and it is for an AMD socket 939 processor. I got everything installed in it, and when I turned it on, it showed a message stating that there was a "CPU Fan Error" (or some similar language) and then turned off. It never stays on for more than about 30 seconds, probably less. The fan had previously been working great, but I replaced it anyway with a brand new Cooler Master fan. This did not work. I then reset the BIOS with the jumpers on the board, no dice. I replaced the CMOS battery. Same error. I then replaced the entire computer power supply with a brand new Antec, same error. The fan header is keyed, and has room for 3 pins. The CPU fan is designed the same way, so its not that I'm missing a temperature sensor or anything. Can anyone give some suggestions? Especially maybe some secret keystrokes to bypass this error?

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• Troubleshooting an overheating CPU

  - by Jeff Fry

  I & my father just recently put together a new PC. Specs below. From the very beginning, on boot it will often complain that the CPU is too hot. If I sit in BIOS and watch the CPU, it'll drop back down from red to blue (<72C), at which point I've tended to just boot into Windows...and haven't had any problems. In fact, I've played a couple hours straight of Skyrim at max settings, and not had any visible issues. That said, I've occasionally walked away & come back to find that it's crashed. Yesterday, it crashed (while idle) twice in 12 hours, which shifted the balance from busy-with-life to nervous-I'm-about-to-melt-something. I just installed Core Temp which is showing my 4 cores fluxuating between 70-98C. I'm guessing at this point that the CPU fan may be incorrectly installed or defective. My first thought is to either (a) add water cooling (which the case supports) and / or (b) replace the CPU fan with an after-market one. That said, I'm very open to suggestions. A note, while I certainly don't want to burn money here, I have a baby coming any day now and am still unpacking from a recent move so if I have a choice between an option that costs money and another that takes a while...I'll happily spend a bit extra. Side question: Should I be nervous to even have this on at this point? Let me know if there's something useful I could add to my report. Otherwise, I'm looking forward to your suggestions! Thanks. CPU Intel i7-2600 CPU w/ stock fan Other HW ASUS P8Z68-V Pro motherboard 64G SSD boot drive 4 older SATA HDs GIGABYTE ATI Radeon HD6950 1 GB DDR5 8G Kingston T1 Series RAM Corsair 650W Gold Certified power supply Antec P280 case

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• Short, intermittent USB port timeouts

  - by jacobsee

  I have a data acquisition application controlled by a Windows PC. I am using an Intel Desktop Board DH67CL motherboard. This has 6 USB2 ports along with 2 of the new blue USB3 ports. The DAQ instrument connects via USB to the computer. Roughly once every day or two there is a short communication glitch with the USB that causes the instrument to disconnect briefly and then reconnect. This is logged so I know whenever it happens. Occasionally it will cause the data acquisition to stop. I've verified that the glitches will go away if I use the USB3 ports, or if I use a PCI add-on card with USB ports. So it seems that there is something going on with these built-in USB2 ports on this motherboard. I haven't yet had a chance to test with other motherboards. My question: what could be causing these glitches and how to get rid of them for this board, or is there a better motherboard to use? We have standardized on the DH67CL because it's inexpensive, has 3 PCI slots that we need, and is readily available. We don't need the power of higher-end server boards but reliability is important. Thanks. Update: This problem has been reproduced many times on different hardware, though we always use the same model of motherboard (DH67CL) and power supply (Antec EA-430D). I don't think the power requirements are very high but will check on that.

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• Weird glitches on Intel iGPU

  - by FrederikVds

  I have a weird problem that I can't manage to describe in one word, so I'm having trouble searching for a solution. My monitors sometimes go black for a tenth of a second. Other times, they show the image shifted a few centimeters to the left or to the right. This happens on both of my monitors, but not necessarily at the same time. I would say it happens about once a minute, unless under heavy load, in which case it can happen every second or so. Interestingly, heavy CPU/memory usage can also cause this, not just heavy GPU usage. This only happens when they are both at 1920x1080, not when one of them, or both, are at a lower resolution. It also happens when they are in mirrored mode instead of extended desktop mode. My GPU is obviously not at full clock speed most of the time: this happens at 350 MHz as well as at 1200 MHz. So it doesn't seem like a matter of too little performance. I'm not seeing any traditional artefacts, even when I use MSI Kombustor, only this kind of full-screen glitches. CPU stressing software isn't reporting any issues either. I'm thinking maybe the connection between my CPU and my PCH isn't fast enough, but I can't find anyone with the same problem to confirm that. I'd rather not invest in a discrete GPU without being certain it will fix something. Does anyone know how to search for this, or even better, does anyone have a solution? My full specs are below. Thanks in advance! Specs: ASUS P8Z77-M Intel Core i5-3570K (with Intel HD 4000 Graphics) 2x4 GB AMD Performance Edition memory Corsair Force 3 Series Rev. B 120GB SSD Maxtor 200GB HD Lite-On DVD-RW Antec 350 Watt PSU 64-bit Windows 7 Professional 2x Iiyama ProLite E2208HDS display

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• Intel HD Graphics vs NVIDIA Quadro FX 380 PCI-E

  - by Michael

  I recently purchased an Acer Veriton which has an i5-650 processor, Windows 7 Pro (64 bit) and Intel HD Graphics listed as the video card. I also purchased a PNY nVIDIA Quadro FX 380 PCI-E card for improved picture and home video viewing and editing. I have already replaced the original 300 wattt power supply to a 430 watt Antec Truepower I had on hand and boosted the RAM to 8 gigs from the original 4. Question 1) Am I getting any improvement in visual quality or system speed with the Quadro or is it a waste of money and I should just save up to buy a bigger video card? This card was on sale for $115. If I am getting improvement then I need to ask another question. Question 2) Instructions for the Quadro installation are as follows... 1--Uninstall the existing VGA driver. -Remove the existing Display Driver via "Add or Remove Porgrams". -Shut down your computer. 2--Remove your Existing Graphics Board (or Disable Integrated 3D Graphics Controller). skipping instructions on how to remove existing graphics board -Systems with integrated (also know as on-board) 3D graphics may require you to disable the integrated 3D graphics system. Consult the owners or vendor manual that came with your PC on how to properly do this. So is the Intel HD Graphics considered a 3D graphics controller? If so should I just contact Acer or can anyone give me instructions? Thanks in advance for any help.

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• Windows 7 remains powered on when restarting

  - by BombDefused

  I'm running windows 7 x64 on an MSI P67A-GD53 motherboard, in an Antec P280 Super Midi Towercase with a Corsair 650w PSU. I've just installed a second instance of windows 7 x64 on a separate disk (this is to keep my games separate from my work OS). The problem is that it appears now that I cannot restart from either instance of Windows 7. The shut down command, and sleep commands work as expected. When I try to restart, the shutdown happens but the system never reboots. Everything remains powered on, until I hold down the power button to force the power off. Ithink (but am not 100% sure) this has only started since I installed the second OS, and am assuming this has something to do with the motherboard needing to know which OS to run up again? Some other forums I've read suggest that the PSU has a major role in restart and could be at fault. Changing the boot order of the disks in the BIOS does not change anything. Any suggestions greatfully recieved! Update: I now have a reproduceable issue: I think the secondary OS install may have been a red herring. It was when windows tried to reboot during the install that I noticed the issue. After playing around with installing drivers, and rebooting many many times, I have found that it is the OC genie setting on the MSI motherboard that seems to trigger the problem. This makes sense as I only started using the OC genie feature a couple of weeks ago, and probably hadn't used restart in that time. However... simply turning off OC genie does not make the issue go away. I have to turn off OC genie, shutdown, start enter bios, go to the "Save and Exit" menu "Restore Defaults" yes to "Load optimized defaults", which will reset to clear the problem. Now when the PC boots into windows, I can restart as normal (and from the OS on either HDD). I only know how to control the issue, and don't still know the root cause. I'd like to be able to use the OC genie function if anyone can suggest a why I'm seeing this problem. Could it be that I'm drawing too much power when using OC feature?

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• How should I use my new SSD drive?

  - by jasondavis

  I just built a new PC the other day. Specs... Processor: Intel i7-930 quad core CPU CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Motherboard: AsRock X58 Extreme 3 RAM/Memory: 6gb G-Skill tripple channel DDR3 memory (3 sticks of 2gb planning to get another kit to make it 12gb total soon) Operating System Hard drive: Intel X25-M 80GB Mainstream SATA2 Solid State Drive Video Cards: 2 XFX ATI Redeon HD 4650 cards to run 3-4 monitors Case: Lian Li PC-B10 Midtower case Power Supply: Antec TruePower New TP-750 Blue 750W Operating System Windows 7 Pro 64bit Not sure if the specs are helpful at all but I posted them just in case. So I got everything put together and running great so far but I need some advice/ideas/help/tips. I got the SSD drive in hopes of using it strictly for my windows 7 install along with all my other programs I install. I am then going to get another drive or 2 just for data (video,music,photos, etc). So my plan is to just install the new data drives and then in windows 7 I will change my "My documents" "My Music" "My Video" "MY Photos" library's to be located on the data drives instead of the OS SSD drive. I would ultimately like to install all my programs with my windows install on the SSD drive and then create an IMAGE of the drive and then 6 months down the road if things are sluggish I can just wipe the drive and restore my IMAGE with all my programs and settings in tact still. So here are some questions now. 1) How can I verify that TRIM is working on my new SSD? 2) Is there anything above that I missed that I should be doing? I think I once read that there is a page file or some sort of file that windows changes a lot and that it should be moved off f an SSD an onto my data drives. DOes anyone know what I might of heard? If you do can you explain the pros and cons of doing such a thing as well as how to possibly? 3) Any tips or advice to get the best performance from all this, I built a pretty nice system and I just want to make it stay that way as long as I can.

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• Graphics card artifacting

  - by White Phoenix

  This is my current build: EVGA X58 (first generation) motherboard Intel i7 965 @ stock clocks 3x 2GB DDR3-1600 Corsair RAM at stock timings and voltages Corsair AX750 80 Plus Gold PSU 1 Optical Drive 1 Seagate 7200.10 500 GB drive 2x Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB drives OCZ Vertex 1 60 GB EVGA GTX 460 Antec 1200 case HT-Omega Striker 7.1 Sound Card Windows 7 32-bit Professional (PAE Enabled) My graphics card started artifacting while I was playing a game. It artifacted, the display blinked, then I got an NVIDIA driver has crashed and recovered message. Kept going, more artifacts, another crash, but this time my display blanked out and I couldn't do anything. Restarted my computer - artifacting is in the BIOS - got to Windows 7 but it BSOD'd before I could even log in. I restarted the computer again - artifacts cleared themselves out and I managed to get to Win7, but it soon started blinking in and out and artifacting again. Checked the card temps and they're well within range. (50 idle, 70 full load) The ambient temperature here is about 80-85F with high humidity. Tried Safe Mode and it still froze up/BSOD'd. Already tried the following to fix this problem: - Reseat the graphics card and swapped in a different slot. - Removed cover on card and sprayed with compressed air to clean it out. - Swapped around memory and/or went with only using one stick at a time. - Underclocked card I called EVGA Tech Support and they said that the voltage on the 12V rail of my Corsair AX750 PSU was on the high end of the "acceptable" range (12.4V, highest within acceptable range is 12.6V - optimal is obviously 12V). They gave me an RMA number anyway, but I want to get a second opinion from you all before I send this thing off, as shipping from where I live to EVGA is kind of pricey. This PSU is only 6 months old. So that I don't have to play RMA tag, which case would be most likely? I'm strapped for cash at the moment so I want to reduce the amount of RMAs I have to do since shipping is expensive here. Is there any surefire way to test to see if it's really the graphics card or the PSU? I tried unplugging any devices that were connected to the 12V rail (except for my SSD and graphics card) as I do have 3 mechanical hard drives, but the voltage for that rail didn't drop (it remained at 12.4V). I'm fairly sure it isn't the drivers since I'm getting the artifacting at the BIOS too. Right now I'm back in Windows 7 but I don't know for how long until it messes up again. Any ideas?

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• What is the probable failure - no BSOD, no event log, monitors sleeping, force reboot required

  - by Tyler

  Every 3 to 15 days, my PC freezes. This typically happens when the computer is idle, I'm coming home from work, back from vacation, etc. It's never happened while using my computer. The monitors are in power save mode The Caps Lock light on the (wireless) keyboard doesn't work Ctrl-alt-del has no effect, mouse (wireless) has no effect The hardware reset button and single press of power putton have no effect Computer does not appear on the network No BSOD, no memory dump Event logs have no errors or indications of problems near the time of crash. Only messages after reboot indicating that there was a reboot without a clean shutdown. Windows is set to never put the computer to sleep (just the display) Here are the vital stats of the build: OS Windows 8 Pro 64-bit CPU Intel i5-2400 Mobo Intel BOXDP67DE Micro ATX GPU MSI N460GTX Cyclone768D5/OC RAM CORSAIR XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 PSU SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold System Drive Samsung 840 Pro 256 GB SSD Data Drive 2 x Western Digital WD20EARS 2TB in hardware RAID 1 Optical Lite-On DVD burner IHAS424-98 And here is the story of how the problem developed and what I've done to diagnose: January 2011, system built with Windows 7 64-bit, runs great. March 2011, Intel replaced the mobo because of the bad sata controllers. October 2012, upgrade to Windows 8 (problems start shortly after). January 2013, system freezes and causes network to fail for the whole house. Unplug the network cable and other devices and PCs can use the internet. Plug it back in, internet goes away for everyone. Reboot and everything is fine. March 2013, install Intel Gigabit CT PCI-E NIC, disable mobo nic in bios. Network strangeness goes away. Freezes are less frequent. Memtest shows no problems (20 passes). Early June 2013, replace Antec PSU with SeaSonic PSU. Mid June 2013, replace OCZ Vertex 2 SSD with Samsung SSD. Late June 2013, get frustrated and hope the community has some good ideas (I'm running out of budget to replace parts). My next plan of attack is setting "Turn off display" to Never and using a screen saver to see how that reacts on the next freeze. It makes me sad to waste power for up to 15 days though. Has anyone out there seen a problem like this? Any ideas on what kind of malfunction would act this way? Ideas of other diagnostic steps to take?

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• Computer makes hissing noise, turns off after few seconds

  - by Kaustubh P

  I have a problem similar to the questions posted here and here. This is my config: Asus M3N78-EM, with AMD Phenom X3 720 2800 Black Edition, 4GB Transcend DDR2 RAM, Nvidia 9400GT. HD is a 160 GB IDE, and a LG IDE DVD-ROM. The power button is a bit off, I have removed the cover of the switch, and the only way it turns on is just giving the "stick" under the cover a gentle press. It turns on sometimes, and at other times, I have to cut-off the power from the PSU, and try again. I will describe my problem in as detail as possible, please bear with me: The problem has started in the last week, a few months after I changed the to the powerswitch arrangement as described above. The PC makes a hissing noise, and I wasn't able to pin-point the noise source, because of the various other fans. At first, removing the HD, rebooting w/o the HD, turning it off, reconnecting and booting made the problem go away. But of late, it doesn't happen. As suggested in the other questions, I tried reducing the load by disconnecting both the IDE drives, and the problem (noise + turn-off) still occurs. I also connected another 80G IDE HD,today morning, adn it still made that noise, and turned off. I also opened up the PSU, but I couldn't see any fault in that, I tried rotating the fan by blowing into the blades, and with my fingers, but the hissing noise didn't come from there. Or maybe the speed wasn't enough to evoke that noise. A few weeks ago: I had cleaned the Cabinet and had repasted the processor and its fan using some thermal paste. Could that be at fault? I also used a vacuum to blow the dust out of the PSU, could the power have been too much, to maybe offset the fan or something? A label on the PSU says it uses a ball-bearing fan. That only leaves me with the Processor fan and the processor itself. I didn't try removing the processor fan and processor from the motherboard, and then turning the PC on, fearing damage. Will doing so cause any damage? What can I do to localize and pin-point the problem? Also, after a few tries, the Computer starts up. Sometimes it turns of within 2 seconds, sometimes after the POST. Once it turned off at the grub. Another time it booted completely and then turned off. The only way to ensure that the PC wont turn off, is if the hissing noise stops. EDIT: I suspect it to be the Processor/Processor fan, owing to the source of noise. All the config, except for the Cabinet, is just over a year old. EDIT2: I also just remembered, that I had set the "On-power resume" to turn on, i.e. If I supply he PC with power, it will turn itself on, w/o me needing to press the switch. I had done that to workaround the faulty power-switch, as noted above. EDIT3: I calculated the power my system needs, from the antec site, and I just arrived at 292W

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• Asus P8P67 Rev. 3.1 Motherboard issues powering on and saving settings

  - by Scott

  Edit: New Information Have some updated information from the old question below: So basically my issue right now is somewhat similar, but I've been able to rule out a couple of things. I don't think this has anything to do with light on the motherboard. No matter what lights are on/off on the motherboard when the computer is off, they don't affect this issue. The main power LED on the Mobo is always lit when the power supply is turned on, and that's what matters anyway. Even when the main power LED is on, the PC will NOT boot up the first time I hit the power switch. I have to go reset the power supply (make all lights turn off on the Mobo and back on), and THEN hit the power switch. Then everything boots up. Also, the BIOS settings are reset every time this happens. Asus Tech Support told me to try jumping the power with something metal to try and rule out that it's a problem with the connectors getting power, or if it's a problem with the case power switch pins - haven't done that yet though. Any ideas? This is a lot simpler than it was before when I thought it had to do with certain LED indicators for RAM, EPU, etc. Original Question So I built my new desktop just about 3 weeks ago. I've been having a few issues which I think are all related to my motherboard, an Asus P8P67 Revision 3.1, but I'm not 100% sure as this is really the first from-scratch build I've ever done. I've posted these questions on the Asus forums, Asus Tech Support, and the Corsair forums as well as I thought it might have something to do with my power supply at one point. None of these avenues have solved my issue until now completely, so I thought I'd come here to see what you guys think. Here's what's happening: My computer is off, and I go to power it on. I press the power switch on the case (Antec Nine Hundred), and nothing seems to happen. Upon further inspection, I see that what this actually does is simply turn on the EPU LED on my motherboard, but doesn't actually boot anything up. I then have to go and flip the main power switch on the power supply off and back on. What this does is turn off all lights on the Motherboard after a few seconds, and turn them all back on (including the EPU LED that was off before I hit the power switch the first time). Now, hitting the power switch works. The machine boots up fine, and starts going through the boot up process. As a side note: My Motherboard is set to "Force BIOS", and every single time I change this to do the opposite, the next time my computer boots up that change reverts itself. I think this may be due to the fact that I am doing the hard reset on the power supply each time, but I'm not sure. I had thought that the Motherboard would keep its BIOS settings unless you did something to the Mobo itself - so this may be a related issue, or something else completely. That's basically it. Once it's on, it's on. It works fine, recognizes all of my hardware, and runs great. All fans/lights in the case work great, and I'm getting standard readings. The next time I go to shut the computer down however, I can expect the same exact process getting it up and running, including being forced to go into BIOS and exit again before I can load Windows. Another side note: If I power on my computer using the power switch DIRECTLY after shutting it down, it powers right back on (I think this is because the EPU LED light doesn't have time to turn off). It looks as if as long as the EPU LED is lit up on the motherboard before I hit the power switch on the case, the thing will boot up fine (although this doesn't explain the "Force BIOS" issue, at least it's something). Any ideas? Thanks guys. P.S. - System Specs Asus P8P67 Rev. 3.1 Motherboard Intel Core i7 2600K Processor 16GB (4x4GB) G-Skill 1600 RAM NVIDIA EVGA GTX 570 Video Card Crucial 128GB SSD HD Corsair 850W Power Supply Seagate 2TB HDD

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• Monitor randomly shutting down, computer accepting no input, need to restart to get working

  - by Sebastian Lamerichs

  First off, spec list: OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1 CPU: i7-4820k @ 3.7GHz (stock) GPU: Two 3GB Radeon HD 7970s @ 1.05GHz Mobo: AsRock X79 Extreme6 HDD: 2TB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm RAM: 16GB quad-channel Kingston 1600MHz PSU: Antec HCG 900W Monitors: Acer S220HQL 1920x1080 + ViewSonic VA2251 1920x1080. Plugged into different GPUs. My problem is that, on a daily-ish basis, my monitors will turn off and not turn back on. My computer will still be running, GPU/CPU/case fans all still going, but the monitors will not turn back on. Additionally, it seems to cease all network activity. It doesn't seem to log any errors at all. I've verified that this is not a monitor issue, as when I press the num/caps/scroll lock buttons on my keyboard, the lights don't change, so the computer is clearly not accepting input. I have noticed a few other people on the internet with this problem, and some have claimed that it was solved by disabling PCI-Express Link State Power Management, but the issue still occurs for me after this. Whilst my CPU and GPUs both run at 100% 24/7, the temperatures are certainly not at dangerous levels, with the CPU averaging 65°C and the GPUs at 70°C and 78°C average. All components are brand new. I have tried forcing MSI Afterburner to start when Windows starts and to force a constant voltage, as this fixed the issue for a few days for another user, but he reported back saying that it had stopped working properly again, so I'm not putting too much faith in this working. Many people have said to adjust display sleep mode settings, but this will clearly not work, as the keyboard lights would still work if the monitors were the issue. The closest I can get to a log file for this issue is the following Folding@Home logs: 14:45:21:WU01:FS00:0x17:Completed 1120000 out of 2000000 steps (56%) 14:46:43:WU00:FS01:0x17:Completed 480000 out of 2000000 steps (24%) 14:46:49:WU01:FS00:0x17:Completed 1140000 out of 2000000 steps (57%) 14:48:30:WU01:FS00:0x17:Completed 1160000 out of 2000000 steps (58%) 14:49:55:WU01:FS00:0x17:Completed 1180000 out of 2000000 steps (59%) As you can see, the second GPU (FS01) stops computation approximately three and a half minutes before the issue occurs (it should be completing 1% every 80-120 seconds), and the first GPU (FS00) continues for a few minutes more before the logs just end. As far as I can tell, the computer has a network failure at the time the first GPU stops working, the latest IRC message I received from this time was at 14:47:58. That being said, there could have just not been any messages between then and 14:50:00, so I'm going to be connecting a laptop to the same bouncer to double-check if it happens again. The GPUs functioned perfectly well in another computer for a significant period of time, so I'm fairly confident that they aren't the issue, which means that this is being caused by either software or the motherboard, or possibly RAM. I really hope it's software. I heard from a forum board that there was a patch from Microsoft that fixed this problem, but "I've forgot which KB it was or the google search terms I used to find the patch, LOL.", so that's not much help. Haven't seen it mentioned by anyone else on about a dozen threads about this issue either. The computer is plugged in via a surge-protected power board, and I've run several other computers and pieces of hardware through it with no issues, so that is not the cause. I have just set the hard disk to never turn off, although I don't believe that that will solve the issue. Strangely, this has only happened when I'm not at the computer (which is actually a minority of the time). Until today it had only happened when I had not been actively using the computer for 6 hours, but today it happened within 10-30 minutes of me last using the computer actively. I have enabled file logging from MSI Afterburner, so hopefully this will shed some light on the issue, but I'm not too optimistic. I've heard that it could be a motherboard problem, but I figured I should ask around before RMAing it. Any help?

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