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• How to bypass resume from hibernate

  - by Daniel Trebbien

  I am attempting to resume a Windows Vista laptop from hibernate, but the resume process seems to be stuck in an endless loop in which Windows is repeatedly trying to read from the optical drive. When I press the Power On button on the laptop, the screen is black (not even the backlight turns on) and the following occurs in a loop: Five seconds pass and I hear the optical drive being accessed. (There's no disk in the drive, so it sounds like a short buzzing noise.) Two seconds pass and I hear the optical drive being accessed. Two seconds pass and I hear the optical drive being accessed. So it's three short buzzing noises in a row, over and over again. Eventually I have to abruptly power off the machine. I have tried inserting a data CD into the drive as well as a bootable CD (a live Linux distro boot disk). For both, the optical drive spins up for a bit, but stops after Windows decides that the disk is not what it is looking for. I have since lost the Windows Vista recovery DVD, but I don't know if inserting the recovery disk into the optical drive would have a different effect than the bootable CD. I have tried pressing F8 immediately after pressing the Power On button (hoping to enter System Restore), but that did not have an effect. Is there a special key sequence that will cause Windows to bypass resuming from hibernate, effectively ignoring hiberfil.sys?

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• charging light on in laptop with battery removed.

  - by Jus12

  I hope this is the right place for this question. I have an LG R310 laptop. Recently the adapter connector started playing up, so I got a second hand replacement adapter of the same rating. The adapter was a cheap type (I know I made a mistake) and faulty.. it made a low buzzing sound when plugged in and not connected to the laptop. It didn't make the noise when connected to the laptop. Foolishly I used this adapter for several weeks. One day the adapter stopped working. The led didnt work and it was not charging. It had also drained the laptop's battery to 0%. I then got an original replacement adapter. Now I can use the laptop on power but the battery does not charge. The charging light does not come on. The interesting thing is that when I remove the battery the charging light comes on and stays on after I insert the battery back (the battery still does not charge). I need to know if the faulty adapter damaged the motherboard or if its just a problem with the battery. I have a multimeter and I prefer not to open the laptop. Thanks in advance.

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• Problem with wireless networking

  - by Rodnower

  Hello, I have atheros wifi hardware, intell chipset, gigabyte laptop and CentOS 5 installed. Now I try to use wireless network and get problems. First of all I want to say that I have 2 OS on my laptop, and when I load Windows XP I still may to access to the wireless network. First I try to get it on Linux was to make active wlan0 interface in: system - administration - network but I get: Determining IP information for wlan0... failed. Second I try also was unsuccessfully: [root 1 network-scripts]# ifup-wireless Error : unrecognised wireless request "off" This relevant output of iwconfig is: Warning: Driver for device wlan0 recommend version 21 of Wireless Extension, but has been compiled with version 20, therefore some driver features may not be available... wlan0 IEEE 802.11 ESSID:"" Mode:Managed Frequency:2.462 GHz Access Point: Not-Associated Tx-Power=27 dBm Retry min limit:7 RTS thr:off Fragment thr=2352 B Encryption key:off Link Quality:0 Signal level:0 Noise level:0 Rx invalid nwid:0 Rx invalid crypt:0 Rx invalid frag:0 Tx excessive retries:0 Invalid misc:0 Missed beacon:0 {output not in the original format} The same things are happen even if I do: modprobe wlan0 (this not get error) Important to say that modprobe not succeed to find ath_pci, tharefor I decide to download latest version of the madwifi driver from http://madwifi-project.org. I extracted this, but when I make this, this is what I get: [root 1 madwifi-0.9.4]# make /bin/sh: line 0: cd: /lib/modules/2.6.18-164.el5/build: No such file or directory Makefile.inc:66: * /lib/modules/2.6.18-164.el5/build is missing, please set KERNELPATH. Stop. I tried to set KERNELPATH, but I think that it was incorrect: [root 1 madwifi-0.9.4]# make KERNELPATH=/lib/modules/2.6.18-164.el5/kernel/ /bin/sh: cc: command not found Makefile.inc:81: * Cannot detect kernel version - please check compiler and KERNELPATH. Stop. Some one have any ideas? Thank you very much for ahead.

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• Why is my Compaq NC8430 laptop so darned HOT ?

  - by Cheeso

  For a long time I've had a Compaq nc8430 laptop. It's nearly 3 years old now. Originally shipped with WinXP, but I installed Vista on it. From the very start it was not a good experience. This thing has one of those "stickpoint" mice, which I like. After a while, I noticed that the computer was generating lots and lots of heat. So much heat, that the stickpoint bumper would melt and disintegrate. Normally I would expect heat if the CPU was working hard, but even when the CPU was idle, the computer was hot. Much too hot to keep on my lap. Turns out this is not an uncommon problem. I installed the HWmonitor tool, and found that the CPU temp was 82C when it was plugged in - pretty darn hot. And because the temp was so high, the fan never turned off, so the laptop was as loud as a jet engine, always. If I unplugged it from A/C power, the screen would dim and the temperature would decrease, and the fan noise would lessen, but still, it was too loud. It's totally unusable. What is the problem?

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• laptop headphone jack problems

  - by Xitcod13

  A while back my headphones mysteriously started making static noise and one of them stopped working completely. At first I thought it was headphones so I bought new ones. Alas that did not solve the problem. The problem must be inside my headphone jack. I did some research online and they suggested unplugging USB devices. Which has a strange effect of changing the static noises to high frequency Morse code noises (it's the aliens). I don't have this problem when i listen to music on speakers. The static is there on headphones whether there is music or not. I own a soldering iron for electronics and I am quite skilled at soldering. I would appreciate any help I can get. My laptop is the HDX 18. It has 2 headphone jacks that act exactly the same. Interesting thing i just noticed is that when i pull out my headphones almost all the way both of them start working but so do the speakers making the headphones kinda useless. Maybe there is a way to turn of the speakers as a temporary solution. I am using vista x64.

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• Boot loop that I cannot bypass

  - by lonewaft

  Recently, on a laptop that I've used for a while, I had a strange issue where OS files were corrupted (device manager) and Windows 8 was hung after the login screen, so I reinstalled Windows 7 over the existing Windows 8 installation, and it worked for a couple days. Today, when I tried to use my laptop, it was stuck on a boot loop. Right after the BIOS screen, it would show a flashing underscore, then restart the computer, again and again until I removed the battery. I tried booting to a windows 7 install CD, but the same flashing underscore - reboot sequence happened when I tried. I tried moving the boot priority around (HDD first, CD/DVD first, even USB first) but nothing changed. After about an hour of tinkering with it, I listened to the HDD sounds, and it sounded like the HDD was trying to spin up, but failing (whining noise increasing in frequency that stopped and started in sync with the system restarting). I am planning to replace the HDD, but I'm still confused as to why a faulty HDD would stop the laptop from booting to my install DVD (tried it on a different computer, it booted from that CD fine). Anybody here have any idea why this might be happening?

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• On a failing hard drive, I am able to view data but unable to copy it - why?

  - by Tom

  I have a 2.5" external hard drive that is failing. It's not making the expected 'clicking' noise that most hard drives and I am able to view the data, but I am unable to actually retrieve the data. I attempted to use SpinRite in order to access the data on the drive, but it didn't like the external drive. When I view the drive's property page, the drive shows that it's used space is at 100% and that it has 0 bytes available; however, the progress indicator under the drive icon in Windows Explorer shows that it's roughly 50% full (which is correct). When I attempt to run Windows' "Error Checking" tool and attempt to "scan for an attempt recovery of bad sectors," the tool begins to run then immediately closes with no error message. I am able to browse the contents of the drive using Windows Explorer. When I begin to try copying any given single file, the copy process begins, an indicator starts, and then the copy fails with no real error message. The Disk Management page in Computer Management under Control Panel also shows this drive has being 'Healthy.' I dropped the drive off at a data recovery store and they said that "The data seems to be intact, but an internal failure is preventing any information from being retrieved." They offered to provide me references to a data recovery specialist. I've also attempted to run CHKDSK on the drive (with and without arguments) but it returns the following error: The type of the filesystem is RAW. CHKDSK is not available for RAW drives. Before going the route of more expensive data recovery, I'm wondering if these symptoms sound familiar to anyone? Other questions... I'm willing to continue trying tools such as TestDisk and/or PhotoRec (as the majority of the data that I'd like to salvage are photos) but how long I should expect either tool to run given approximately 400GB of data? I'm also comfortable using Linux so I welcome any suggestions for utilities or tools and strategies with which you've had success.

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• AMD FX8350 CPU - CoolerMaster Silencio 650 Case - New Water Cooling System

  - by fat_mike

  Lately after a use of 6 months of my AMD FX8350 CPU I'm experiencing high temperatures and loud noise coming from the CPU fan(I set that in order to keep it cooler). I decided to replace the stock fan with a water cooling system in order to keep my CPU quite and cool and add one or two more case fans too. Here is my case's airflow diagram: http://www.coolermaster.com/microsite/silencio_650/Airflow.html My configuration now is: 2x120mm intake front(stock with case) 1x120mm exhaust rear(stock with case) 1 CPU stock I'm planning to buy Corsair Hydro Series H100i(www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h100i-extreme-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler) and place the radiator in the front of my case(intake) and add an 120mm bottom intake and/or an 140mm top exhaust fan. My CPU lies near the top of the MO. Is it a good practice to have a water-cooling system that takes air in? As you can see here the front of the case is made of aluminum. Can the fresh air go in? Does it even fit? If not, is it wiser to get Corsair Hydro Series H80i (www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h80i-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler) and place the radiator on top of my case(exhaust) and keep the front 2x120mm stock and add one more as intake on bottom. If you have any other idea let me know. Thank you. EDIT: The CPU fan running ~3000rpm and temp is around 40~43C on idle and save energy. When temp is going over 55C when running multiple programs and servers on localhost(tomcat, wamp) rpm is around 5500 and loud! I'm running Win8.1 CPU not overclocked PS: Due to my reputation i couldn't post the links that was necessary. I will edit ASAP.

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• How to bypass resume from hibernate [closed]

  - by Daniel Trebbien

  I am attempting to resume a Windows Vista laptop from hibernate, but the resume process seems to be stuck in an endless loop in which Windows is repeatedly trying to read from the optical drive. When I press the Power On button on the laptop, the screen is black (not even the backlight turns on) and the following occurs in a loop: Five seconds pass and I hear the optical drive being accessed. (There's no disk in the drive, so it sounds like a short buzzing noise.) Two seconds pass and I hear the optical drive being accessed. Two seconds pass and I hear the optical drive being accessed. So it's three short buzzing noises in a row, over and over again. Eventually I have to abruptly power off the machine. I have tried inserting a data CD into the drive as well as a bootable CD (a live Linux distro boot disk). For both, the optical drive spins up for a bit, but stops after Windows decides that the disk is not what it is looking for. I have since lost the Windows Vista recovery DVD, but I don't know if inserting the recovery disk into the optical drive would have a different effect than the bootable CD. I have tried pressing F8 immediately after pressing the Power On button (hoping to enter System Restore), but that did not have an effect. Is there a special key sequence that will cause Windows to bypass resuming from hibernate, effectively ignoring hiberfil.sys?

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• Cooling Server Closet - No A/C Is Possible

  - by JamesCo

  We're moving into a new office in an old building in London (that's England :) and are walling off a 2m x 1.3m area where the router & telephone equipment currently terminates to use as a server closet. The closet will contain: 2 24-port switches 1 router 1 VSDL modem 1 Dell desktop 1 4-bay NAS 1 HP micro-server 1 UPS Miscellaneous minor telephony boxes. There is no central A/C in the office and there never will be. We can install ducting to the outside quite easily - it's only a couple of metres to the windows, which face a courtyard. My question is whether installing an extractor fan with ducting to the window should be sufficient for cooling? Would an intake fan and intake duct (from the window, too) be required? We don't want to leave a gap in the closet door as that'll let noise out into the office. If we don't have to put a portable A/C unit into the closet, that'd be perfect. The office has about 12 people; London is temperate, average maximum in August is 31 Celsius, 25 Celsius is more typical. The same equipment runs fine in our current office (same building as new office, also no A/C) but it isn't in an enclosed space. I can see us putting say one Dell 2950 tower server into the closet, but no more than that. So, sustained power consumption in the closet would currently be about 800w (I'm guessing); possibly in the future 2kw. The closet will have a ceiling and no windows and be well-insulated. We don't care if the equipment runs hot, so long as it runs and we don't hear it.

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• With Ubuntu 9.10, my DVD keeps spinning up

  - by Ken

  I have Ubuntu 9.10 on my Intel Mac Mini. When there's a DVD in the drive, and even if there's no program open at all (just looking at the desktop), every minute or so the disc spins up with a loud whirring noise, and I can hear it cranking the motor to seek across the disc. How do I find out what's causing this? And how can I make it stop? Thanks! EDIT: I straced nautilus, and saw nothing it's doing directly, even when the disc spins up. It does poll inotify regularly, but I don't know how to trace what it's watching, or if that's even how it receives disc-inserted notifications. It doesn't call inotify_add_watch when I insert a disc or mount it (or eject or umount), but it could be watching all of /dev already or something like that. Of course, a DVD is mounted read-only, so whether it's inotify or something else, it should never need to poll anything on that. And if it is inotify, it's happening in the kernel, and the kernel should really never need to poll a device it's mounted to check for notifications.

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• Chipset fan on the frtiz - compressed air hasn't fixed anything - is there anything I can do?

  - by Anthony

  Yesterday, my computer started to make an annoying whining noise. Knowing that this is likely a fan issue, I opened the case and proceeded to determine which fan was causing the issue. I got some compressed air and tried cleaning out the dust around it (and the rest of the computer while I was at it). This hasn't seemed to fix the issue. Now, if it were just any fan, I would probably just replace the fan - they're relatively cheap after all. However, this is a special fan. Aside: For what its worth, I feel bad that the graphics card blocks part of the fan, but it is the only slot the graphics card fits, so I had no choice. After pulling out my motherboard user guide, it looks like this is a fan placed directly on top of the chipset. To be perfectly honest, I have no clue what the purpose of the chipset is - but it sounds important. After some quick research, I see that it is responsible for providing the bridge between my CPU, RAM and graphics, among other things. Just a quick search at Newegg tells me that chipset fans can be purchased at pretty reasonable prices (< 20 dollars). Is it practical to replace this fan? It is an old computer as computers go and I wouldn't be terribly upset to upgrade the motherboard and processor, so perhaps this is a sign. Hardware Specs: Motherboard: Asus A8N-E Chipset: NVIDIA nForce4 Ultra

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• Laptop sleep: How to go into S3 easily?

  - by monov

  Laptop: Fujitsu-Siemens Amilo Pi-3525 OS: Vista When my laptop is plugged in and I close the lid, it goes into S1 sleep. This means that there is still: fan noise (annoying when trying to sleep at night) lots of power consumed (so if I then unplug the laptop and toss it in the bag, by the time I'm at school it's already drained and beeping ominously). What I want is S3 sleep, it solves both problems. I've found a roundabout way to go into S3 sleep: Unplug laptop Close lid (or click Sleep in Start menu) Plug laptop back in if needed The question: How do I force Windows to use always use S3 sleep when I close the lid? One thing I've tried is: dumppo admin minsleep=s3 (dumppo from here) Afterwards running just dumppo admin confirms that minsleep has been set, but closing the lid still goes into S1. Also, after a reboot, minsleep is reset to s1. I think dumppo is incompatible with Vista... MCE Standby Tool was recommended as a Vista-compatible alternative to dumppo, but it doesn't have any effect either. I looked in the BIOS settings, but there are no settings relating to ACPI sleeps/suspends there.

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• SSD cache to minimize HDD spin-up time?

  - by sirprize

  short version first: I'm looking for Linux compatible software which is able to transparently cache HDD writes using an SSD. However, I only want to spin up the HDD once or twice a day (to write the cached data to the HDD). The rest of the time, the HDD should not be spinning due to noise concerns. Now the longer version: I have built a completely silent computer running Xubuntu. It has a A10-6700T APU, huge fanless cooler, fanless PSU, SSD. The problem is: it also has (and needs) a noisy HDD and I want to forbid spinning it up during the night. All writes should be cached on the SSD, reads are not needed in the night. Throughout every day, this computer will automatically download about 5 GB of data which will be retained for about a year, giving a total needed disk capacity of slightly less than 2 TB. This data is currently stored on a 3 TB noisy hard disk drive which is spinning day and night. Sometimes, I'll need to access some data from several months ago. However, most times I'll only need data from the last 14 days, which would fit on the SSD. Ideally, I'd like a transparent solution (all data on one filesystem) which caches all writes to the SSD, writing to the HDD only once a day. Reads would be served by the cache if they were still on the SDD, else the HDD would have to spin up. I have tried bcache without much success (using cache_mode=writeback, writeback_running=0, writeback_delay=86400, sequential_cutoff=0, congested_write_threshold_us=0 - anything missing?) and I read about ZFS ZIL/L2ARC but I'm not sure I can achieve my goal with ZFS. Any pointers? If all else fails, I will simply use some scripts to automatically copy files over to the big drive while deleting the oldest files from the SSD.

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• SPDIF passthrough not working in Windows 7

  - by adriangrigore

  Hi, I'm running Windows 7 on a computer with an Audigy Platinum eX sound card connected to a surround receiver via optical cabling. Sound works fine when listening to non-surround audio sources, such as windows sounds or MP3. However, when I view a DVD in Media Center and the SPDIF passthrough kicks in, I can only hear an awful noise instead of the movie soundtrack. Also, the receiver does not show the Dolby Digital or DTS symbol, but stays at Dolby Prologic, so it seems it doesn't identify the sound encoding properly. I could switch off SPDIF passthrough and use the sound card's decoder instead, but that's not an option for me since it would create more problems with regular MP3 playback via additional Stereo Receiver which is also connected to the same sound card. I've tried both the default Audigy drivers that come with Windows 7 and the latest drivers from the Soundblaster website, but the problem remains unchanged. Also, I have ensured that the receiver's Dolby Digital decoder is not broken by successfully connecting it to my PS3 to view a Dolby Digital DVD. Besides, SPDIF passthrough was working fine in Vista before I upgraded to Windows 7. Is there anything else I could try?

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• My desktop has started overheating -- how hot is hot?

  - by Jerry

  I have a two year old desktop, some random quad core HP desktop. It used to run very quietly, but in the past month, the fans start up anytime anything "serious" is being done -- compiles, playing video, etc. Right now, speedfan and speccy report the cores are between 50C and 70C. Speedfan reports this as hot. (Nice flame icon.) Well, the system does sit on my carpet, so two weeks ago, I took off the lid, and cough *cough* it was pretty filled with dust. I got out an air can, turned on a vacuum and carefully got out all the dust that I saw on the CPU fan the case fans any fan I saw (graphics board) and blew out all the dust I could from all the circuit boards. And then I closed the case back up. It has definitely run cooler since then, but it still runs hot, and I hear high speed fan noise I never heard before. How hot is too hot? At what temps do consumer grade CPUs die? What should I be looking to do? Replace CPU fan? (It seems to work) Replace power supply fan? Assuming the dust problem is gone, where should I be looking to determine why the machine is heating up? Epilogue: After following the various pieces of advice given here, the system did run cooler, but it was still noticeably running louder (hotter) than just a few months prior. I ended up purchasing a new cpu heatsink and fan and during installation found the cooling grease from the original heatsink was just a dried, cracked layer, probably more of an insulator than heat transfer agent. With the new fan AND the new heatsink compound, the system ran much much cooler and the fan rarely turns on.

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• check_snmp warning & critical thresholds with negative values

  - by Oesor

  I'm querying some signal level values measured in dBm, and the SNMP host on the remove device reports the values as negative values, ie, -90 dBm. However, check-snmp seems to be incapable of dealing with negative numbers as part of its threshold values. If I specify the values as part of a collection of OIDs, it accepts the syntax but converts the snmp value to positive, thus always generating a WARNING/CRITICAL result: root@ops-00:/usr/local/nagios/libexec# ./check_snmp -H 192.168.1.100 -o DEVICE-MIB::AverageReceiveSNR.0,DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 -w 10:,~:-85 -c 15:,~:-80 -vvvv /usr/bin/snmpget -t 1 -r 5 -m ALL -v 1 [authpriv] 192.168.1.100:161 DEVICE-MIB::AverageReceiveSNR.0 DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 DEVICE-MIB::AverageReceiveSNR.0 = INTEGER: 25 DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 = INTEGER: -97 Processing line 1 oidname: DEVICE-MIB::AverageReceiveSNR.0 response: = INTEGER: 25 Processing line 2 oidname: DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 response: = INTEGER: -97 SNMP CRITICAL - 25 *97* | DEVICE-MIB::AverageReceiveSNR.0=25 DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0=97 If I run it with a single OID, it gives me an error that the format is incorrect: root@ops-00:/usr/local/nagios/libexec# ./check_snmp -H 192.168.1.100 -o DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 -w ~:-85 -c ~:-80 -vvvv Range format incorrect And if I run it with no thresholds defined, it works properly and returns the right value. This makes the graphs correct, however it'll never generate a notification when out of range: root@ops-00:/usr/local/nagios/libexec# ./check_snmp -H 192.168.1.100 -o DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 -vvvv /usr/bin/snmpget -t 1 -r 5 -m ALL -v 1 [authpriv] 192.168.1.100:161 DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 = INTEGER: -97 Processing line 1 oidname: DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0 response: = INTEGER: -97 SNMP OK - -97 | DEVICE-MIB::CurrentNoiseFloor.0=-97 What am I doing wrong here? How would I, for example, generate a CRITICAL when the noise floor is -80 dBm or higher, a WARNING when it's -85 to -80 dBm, and an OK when -85 dBm or lower? Do I have to write my own SNMP plugins when dealing with negative values?

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• Laptop Acer Travelmate 4050 takes over 10 Mins to POST

  - by Belliez

  Hi, I am a computer tech and have received a laptop for repair. I noticed when I turned it on the laptop would not do anything for a min or two (the fan would run up and stop, power led would shine and some cd rom activity then stop). It would sit there with a black screen. Suddenly after a random number of minutes (between 1-20mins!) the Acer BIOS screen would display and POST would happen before booting into Windows XP. It has frozen in XP at various times and pointed towards a CPU fault and over heating. The fan was on its last legs, sounded like a car engine, so I replaced this. Still same issues. I next replaced the CPU like for like. Same problems. Also applied new thermal paste between the cpu and heatsink, when running the fan kicks in occasionally (not as often as I thought it would) and I left it playing mp3, online radio and updating to service pack 3 and it wouldnt freeze. shutting down ok, cold start, not ok. Waits again before showing the BIOS screen. The hard disk was also making a screaming noise (SMART test and chkdsk passed) but I also replaced this. The laptop powers up with and without the battery so dont think its a battery issue. Running out of ideas and wondered if anyone had any advice. Thanks

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• Coffee spilled and went inside CPU...computer not starting

  - by Harpreet

  Today coffee got spilled over my table, and some of it (very less) reached the CPU placed under the table. I think little bit of it got inside the CPU through the front face of the CPU. As that happened the fan started running very fast and made noise. I tried to restart to see if it becomes fine, but the computer didn't start again. First it gave an error of "Alert! Air temperature sensor not detected" and didn't start. Next I tried again multiple times of starting the computer but then it gave some memory error. I was not able to start the computer. Incase there's a problem in hard disk or something related to memory, is there any way we can extract our work or data? I am scared if I am not able to extract my work in case some problem occurs like that. What options would I have? Help! EDIT: I have attached the photo here and you can see the area spilt in red circle. The hard drive electronics have been affected and internal speaker may also have been affected. Any advise on cleaning and if hard drive can work? EDIT 2: Are there any professional services offered to extract data from blemished hard disk, like this one, in case I am not able to run it personally?

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• Wireless to Wireless Transfer Slow on a Linksys WRT54GL

  - by Kyle Brandt

  The Situation: When I try to transfer a file from one computer to another that are both connected via wireless on a WRT54GL (in a office) with dd-wrt firmware I often get bad speeds. In generally they average around 100 kilobytes a second. Either computer can download via wireless from the Internet at at about 2 megabytes a second. The speed is slow with the transfer of one large file. There are about 20 other wireless networks that the computers can see, so there is a lot of noise, but I don't have the equipment to really monitor the frequencies well. But that still seems pretty slow. I thought maybe it was the transmit on each card, but even when they are 5 feet away with a line of sight I still get these speeds. According to Linux both cards are operating at 54g. My Questions: Is this normal for this sort of consumer level wireless equipment? Anything I can do to improve it? why is wireless to wireless transfer slow when everything else isn't? Whats steps might I take to figure out what is happening? For example, are lots of packets not making to the access point requiring retransmissions? Above all, I want to find out what the problem actually is. This may seem odd, but at this point I am more interested in understanding what the problem is than fixing it. What I have tried: I have tried messing with lots of settings. Different channels, xmit power, G-Only, none of which has made anything any better. I've also tried upgrading to newer dd-wrt firmware version and doing a reset to wipe out the settings.

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• how i can identify which process is making UDP traffic on linux?

  - by boos

  my machine is continously making udp dns traffic request. what i need to know is the PID of the process generating this traffic. The normal way in TCP connection is to use netstat/lsof and get the process associated at the pid. Is UDP the connection is stateles, so, when i call netastat/lsof i can see it only if the UDP socket is opened and it's sending traffic. I have tried with lsof -i UDP and with nestat -anpue but i cant be able to find wich process is doing that request because i need to call lsof/netstat exactly when the udp traffic is sended, if i call lsof/netstat before/after the udp datagram is sended is impossible to view the opened UDP socket. call netstat/lsof exactly when 3/4 udp packet is sended is IMPOSSIBLE. how i can identify the infamous process ? I have already inspected the traffic to try to identify the sended PID from the content of the packet, but is not possible to identify it from the contect of the traffic. anyone can help me ? I'm root on this machine FEDORA 12 Linux noise.company.lan 2.6.32.16-141.fc12.x86_64 #1 SMP Wed Jul 7 04:49:59 UTC 2010 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux

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• Problems with Windows 7 restore

  - by Chris Lively

  My WD raptor 150 failed with a nice clicking noise. So, I picked up a velociraptor 300 and popped it in. I had windows set to do a full system backup nightly, so I figured the recovery ought to go easily. Well, it isn't. It is currently stuck on a screen that says: "Windows is restoring your computer from the system image. This might take from a few minutes to a few hours" Below that is a rather large progress meter with maybe the first block filled in. Below that is a message that says "Restoring disk (C:)..." It's been that way for over an hour. The first time around, I gave up after 2 hours. I then booted into the system recovery options and went to a command prompt and ran a chkdsk on the new drive. It showed several file inconsistencies and not much else. I ran a chkdsk /f on it and tried again... Which is where I'm at now. I can't see that the restore process should take this long before. Any ideas? UPDATE After 10 hours, it's still on "Restoring disk (C:)" and the progress meter is at roughly 5%. I'm guessing at the 5% as there isn't an actual number or anything else that I can look at showing what it's actually doing. The backup contains roughly 120GB of data. How slow is windows restore?

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• How can I set the CD audio volume in Linux?

  - by user1296362

  In Windows 7 Control Panel - Sound - Sound Properties window there's an slider for setting CD Audio volume: And it's pretty strange that I can't find corresponding one in generic Linux mixers: alsamixer or amixer. I connected a CD drive to try to set CD audio volume with cdcd (CD Player): $ cdcd setvol 0 Invalid volume It isn't actually an invalid volume, it is because ioctl() call fails. I found that out after searching and changing a bit the source code of this utility (in the libcdaudio): --- cdaudio.c.orig 2004-09-09 06:26:20.000000000 +0600 +++ cdaudio.c 2012-05-30 21:34:34.167915521 +0600 @@ -578,8 +578,10 @@ cdvol_data.CDVOLCTRL_BACK_RIGHT_SELECT = CDAUDIO_MAX_VOLUME; #endif - if(ioctl(cd_desc, CDAUDIO_SET_VOLUME, &cdvol) < 0) - return -1; + if(ioctl(cd_desc, CDAUDIO_SET_VOLUME, &cdvol) < 0) { + printf("*** cd_set_volume: ioctl() returned error\n"); + return -1; + } return 0; } By the way cdcd's get volume command yields rather weird output: Left Right Front 1281734864 32767 Back 0 0 Also I tried aumix: $ aumix -c 0 But all with no success. I read from this manual — http://tldp.org/HOWTO/Alsa-sound-6.html (section 6.2 The mixer) that CD channel can present in amixer output. Maybe some drivers for sound card are missing in my Ubuntu 12.04 LTS installation. Though I don't think it's the case: $ lsmod | grep snd snd_mixer_oss 22602 0 snd_hda_codec_hdmi 32474 1 snd_hda_codec_realtek 223867 1 snd_hda_intel 33773 4 snd_hda_codec 127706 3 snd_hda_codec_hdmi,snd_hda_codec_realtek,snd_hda_intel snd_hwdep 13668 1 snd_hda_codec snd_pcm 97188 3 snd_hda_codec_hdmi,snd_hda_intel,snd_hda_codec snd_seq_midi 13324 0 snd_rawmidi 30748 1 snd_seq_midi snd_seq_midi_event 14899 1 snd_seq_midi snd_seq 61896 2 snd_seq_midi,snd_seq_midi_event snd_timer 29990 2 snd_pcm,snd_seq snd_seq_device 14540 3 snd_seq_midi,snd_rawmidi,snd_seq snd 78855 19 snd_mixer_oss,snd_hda_codec_hdmi,snd_hda_codec_realtek,snd_hda_intel,snd_hda_codec,snd_hwdep ,snd_pcm,snd_rawmidi,snd_seq,snd_timer,snd_seq_device soundcore 15091 1 snd snd_page_alloc 18529 2 snd_hda_intel,snd_pcm All I need is just mute or set to 0 volume level of CD Audio channel, like I did in Windows 7, to get rid of sibilant noise in the speakers.

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• How to discover true identity of hard disk?

  - by F21

  I have 2 fake external hard drives that claim to have a storage capacity of 2TB. I pulled the enclosure apart and the hard drives seems to be refurbished ones with their labels replaced as Barracuda LP 2000 GB labels (the serial numbers on both labels are the same). Interestingly, one of the drives have 160G written on it with pencil. However, the counterfeiters seem to have done something to the firmware, because CrystalDiskInfo reports them as 2TB ST2000DL003 drives. I then delete the 1.81 TB partition in Windows disk management and tried to create a new one and format it. Once I get to this point, the drives would make some noise that is common to dying drives. I am not interested in using these drives for production, but I am interested in finding the true identity (manufacturer/serial number/model number, etc) and restoring it to their factory defaults with the right capacity. Can this be done without any special equipment? This would be an interesting learning exercise. Some pictures of the drives in question: Here are the screens from CrystalDiskInfo: Note the serial numbers are the same (these are 2 different drives!). How is this done? Did they have to tamper with the controller board? I would assume that changing the firmware doesn't change the serial number at all.

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• Coffee spilled inside computer, damaged hard drive

  - by Harpreet

  Today coffee spilled over my table, and some of it (very less) reached the PC case placed under the table. I think little bit of it got inside the PC case through the front. As that happened the fan started running very fast and made noise. I tried to restart to see if it becomes fine, but the computer didn't start again. First it gave an error of "Alert! Air temperature sensor not detected" and didn't start. Next I tried again multiple times of starting the computer but then it gave some memory error. I was not able to start the computer. Incase there's a problem in hard disk or something related to memory, is there any way we can extract our work or data? I am scared if I am not able to extract my work in case some problem occurs like that. What options would I have? Help!! EDIT: I have attached the photo here and you can see the area spilt in red circle. The hard drive electronics have been affected and internal speaker may also have been affected. Any advise on cleaning and if hard drive can work? EDIT 2: Are there any professional services offered to extract data from blemished hard disk, like this one, in case I am not able to run it personally?

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