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  • First PC Build (Part 1)

    - by Anthony Trudeau
    Originally posted on: http://geekswithblogs.net/tonyt/archive/2014/08/05/157959.aspxA couple of months ago I made the decision to build myself a new computer. The intended use is gaming and for using the last real version of Photoshop. I was motivated by the poor state of console gaming and a simple desire to do something I haven’t done before – build a PC from the ground up. I’ve been using PCs for more than two decades. I’ve replaced a component hear and there, but for the last 10 years or so I’ve only used laptops. Therefore, this article will be written from the perspective of someone familiar with PCs, but completely new at building. I’m not an expert and this is not a definitive guide for building a PC, but I do hope that it encourages you to try it yourself. Component List Research There was a lot of research necessary, because building a PC is completely new to me, and I haven’t kept up with what’s out there. The first thing you want to do is nail down what your goals are. Your goals are going to be driven by what you want to do with your computer and personal choice. Don’t neglect the second one, because if you’re doing this for fun you want to get what you want. In my case, I focused on three things: performance, longevity, and aesthetics. The performance aspect is important for gaming and Photoshop. This will drive what components you get. For example, heavy gaming use is going to drive your choice of graphics card. Longevity is relevant to me, because I don’t want to be changing things out anytime soon for the next hot game. The consequence of performance and longevity is cost. Finally, aesthetics was my next consideration. I could have just built a box, but it wouldn’t have been nearly as fun for me. Aesthetics might not be important to you. They are for me. I also like gadgets and that played into at least one purchase for this build. I used PC Part Picker to put together my component list. I found it invaluable during the process and I’d recommend it to everyone. One caveat is that I wouldn’t trust the compatibility aspects. It does a pretty good job of not steering you wrong, but do your own research. The rest of it isn’t really sexy. I started out with what appealed to me and then I made changes and additions as I dived deep into researching each component and interaction I could find. The resources I used are innumerable. I used reviews, product descriptions, forum posts (praises and problems), et al. to assist me. I also asked friends into gaming what they thought about my component list. And when I got near the end I posted my list to the Reddit /r/buildapc forum. I cannot stress the value of extra sets of eyeballs and first hand experiences. Some of the resources I used: PC Part Picker Tom’s Hardware bit-tech Reddit Purchase PC Part Picker favors certain vendors. You should look at others too. In my case I found their favorites to be the best. My priorities were out-the-door price and shipping time. I knew that once I started getting parts I’d want to start building. Luckily, I timed it well and everything arrived within the span of a few days. Here are my opinions on the vendors I ended up using in alphabetical order. Amazon.com is a good, reliable choice. They have excellent customer service in my experience, and I knew I wouldn’t have trouble with them. However, shipping time is often a problem when you use their free shipping unless you order expensive items (I’ve found items over $100 ship quickly). Ultimately though, price wasn’t always the best and their collection of sales tax in my state turned me off them. I did purchase my case from them. I ordered the mouse as well, but I cancelled after it was stuck four days in a “shipping soon” state. I purchased the mouse locally. Best Buy is not my favorite place to do business. There’s a lot of history with poor, uninterested sales representatives and they used to have a lot of bad anti-consumer policies. That’s a lot better now, but the bad taste is still in my mouth. I ended up purchasing the accessories from them including mouse (locally) and headphones. NCIX is a company that I’ve never heard of before. It popped up as a recommendation for my CPU cooler on PC Part Picker. I didn’t do a lot of research on the company, because their policy on you buying insurance for your orders turned me off. That policy makes it clear to me that the company finds me responsible for the shipment once it leaves their dock. That’s not right, and may run afoul of state laws. Regardless they shipped my CPU cooler quickly and I didn’t have a problem. NewEgg.com is a well known company. I had never done business with them, but I’m glad I did. They shipped quickly and provided good visibility over everything. The prices were also the best in most cases. My main complaint is that they have a lot of exchange only return policies on components. To their credit those policies are listed in the cart underneath each item. The visibility tells me that they’re not playing any shenanigans and made me comfortable dealing with that risk. The vast majority of what I ordered came from them. Coming Next In the next part I’ll tackle my build experience.

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  • How to Reuse Your Old Wi-Fi Router as a Network Switch

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Just because your old Wi-Fi router has been replaced by a newer model doesn’t mean it needs to gather dust in the closet. Read on as we show you how to take an old and underpowered Wi-Fi router and turn it into a respectable network switch (saving your $20 in the process). Image by mmgallan. Why Do I Want To Do This? Wi-Fi technology has changed significantly in the last ten years but Ethernet-based networking has changed very little. As such, a Wi-Fi router with 2006-era guts is lagging significantly behind current Wi-Fi router technology, but the Ethernet networking component of the device is just as useful as ever; aside from potentially being only 100Mbs instead of 1000Mbs capable (which for 99% of home applications is irrelevant) Ethernet is Ethernet. What does this matter to you, the consumer? It means that even though your old router doesn’t hack it for your Wi-Fi needs any longer the device is still a perfectly serviceable (and high quality) network switch. When do you need a network switch? Any time you want to share an Ethernet cable among multiple devices, you need a switch. For example, let’s say you have a single Ethernet wall jack behind your entertainment center. Unfortunately you have four devices that you want to link to your local network via hardline including your smart HDTV, DVR, Xbox, and a little Raspberry Pi running XBMC. Instead of spending $20-30 to purchase a brand new switch of comparable build quality to your old Wi-Fi router it makes financial sense (and is environmentally friendly) to invest five minutes of your time tweaking the settings on the old router to turn it from a Wi-Fi access point and routing tool into a network switch–perfect for dropping behind your entertainment center so that your DVR, Xbox, and media center computer can all share an Ethernet connection. What Do I Need? For this tutorial you’ll need a few things, all of which you likely have readily on hand or are free for download. To follow the basic portion of the tutorial, you’ll need the following: 1 Wi-Fi router with Ethernet ports 1 Computer with Ethernet jack 1 Ethernet cable For the advanced tutorial you’ll need all of those things, plus: 1 copy of DD-WRT firmware for your Wi-Fi router We’re conducting the experiment with a Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi router. The WRT54 series is one of the best selling Wi-Fi router series of all time and there’s a good chance a significant number of readers have one (or more) of them stuffed in an office closet. Even if you don’t have one of the WRT54 series routers, however, the principles we’re outlining here apply to all Wi-Fi routers; as long as your router administration panel allows the necessary changes you can follow right along with us. A quick note on the difference between the basic and advanced versions of this tutorial before we proceed. Your typical Wi-Fi router has 5 Ethernet ports on the back: 1 labeled “Internet”, “WAN”, or a variation thereof and intended to be connected to your DSL/Cable modem, and 4 labeled 1-4 intended to connect Ethernet devices like computers, printers, and game consoles directly to the Wi-Fi router. When you convert a Wi-Fi router to a switch, in most situations, you’ll lose two port as the “Internet” port cannot be used as a normal switch port and one of the switch ports becomes the input port for the Ethernet cable linking the switch to the main network. This means, referencing the diagram above, you’d lose the WAN port and LAN port 1, but retain LAN ports 2, 3, and 4 for use. If you only need to switch for 2-3 devices this may be satisfactory. However, for those of you that would prefer a more traditional switch setup where there is a dedicated WAN port and the rest of the ports are accessible, you’ll need to flash a third-party router firmware like the powerful DD-WRT onto your device. Doing so opens up the router to a greater degree of modification and allows you to assign the previously reserved WAN port to the switch, thus opening up LAN ports 1-4. Even if you don’t intend to use that extra port, DD-WRT offers you so many more options that it’s worth the extra few steps. Preparing Your Router for Life as a Switch Before we jump right in to shutting down the Wi-Fi functionality and repurposing your device as a network switch, there are a few important prep steps to attend to. First, you want to reset the router (if you just flashed a new firmware to your router, skip this step). Following the reset procedures for your particular router or go with what is known as the “Peacock Method” wherein you hold down the reset button for thirty seconds, unplug the router and wait (while still holding the reset button) for thirty seconds, and then plug it in while, again, continuing to hold down the rest button. Over the life of a router there are a variety of changes made, big and small, so it’s best to wipe them all back to the factory default before repurposing the router as a switch. Second, after resetting, we need to change the IP address of the device on the local network to an address which does not directly conflict with the new router. The typical default IP address for a home router is 192.168.1.1; if you ever need to get back into the administration panel of the router-turned-switch to check on things or make changes it will be a real hassle if the IP address of the device conflicts with the new home router. The simplest way to deal with this is to assign an address close to the actual router address but outside the range of addresses that your router will assign via the DHCP client; a good pick then is 192.168.1.2. Once the router is reset (or re-flashed) and has been assigned a new IP address, it’s time to configure it as a switch. Basic Router to Switch Configuration If you don’t want to (or need to) flash new firmware onto your device to open up that extra port, this is the section of the tutorial for you: we’ll cover how to take a stock router, our previously mentioned WRT54 series Linksys, and convert it to a switch. Hook the Wi-Fi router up to the network via one of the LAN ports (consider the WAN port as good as dead from this point forward, unless you start using the router in its traditional function again or later flash a more advanced firmware to the device, the port is officially retired at this point). Open the administration control panel via  web browser on a connected computer. Before we get started two things: first,  anything we don’t explicitly instruct you to change should be left in the default factory-reset setting as you find it, and two, change the settings in the order we list them as some settings can’t be changed after certain features are disabled. To start, let’s navigate to Setup ->Basic Setup. Here you need to change the following things: Local IP Address: [different than the primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.2] Subnet Mask: [same as the primary router, e.g. 255.255.255.0] DHCP Server: Disable Save with the “Save Settings” button and then navigate to Setup -> Advanced Routing: Operating Mode: Router This particular setting is very counterintuitive. The “Operating Mode” toggle tells the device whether or not it should enable the Network Address Translation (NAT)  feature. Because we’re turning a smart piece of networking hardware into a relatively dumb one, we don’t need this feature so we switch from Gateway mode (NAT on) to Router mode (NAT off). Our next stop is Wireless -> Basic Wireless Settings: Wireless SSID Broadcast: Disable Wireless Network Mode: Disabled After disabling the wireless we’re going to, again, do something counterintuitive. Navigate to Wireless -> Wireless Security and set the following parameters: Security Mode: WPA2 Personal WPA Algorithms: TKIP+AES WPA Shared Key: [select some random string of letters, numbers, and symbols like JF#d$di!Hdgio890] Now you may be asking yourself, why on Earth are we setting a rather secure Wi-Fi configuration on a Wi-Fi router we’re not going to use as a Wi-Fi node? On the off chance that something strange happens after, say, a power outage when your router-turned-switch cycles on and off a bunch of times and the Wi-Fi functionality is activated we don’t want to be running the Wi-Fi node wide open and granting unfettered access to your network. While the chances of this are next-to-nonexistent, it takes only a few seconds to apply the security measure so there’s little reason not to. Save your changes and navigate to Security ->Firewall. Uncheck everything but Filter Multicast Firewall Protect: Disable At this point you can save your changes again, review the changes you’ve made to ensure they all stuck, and then deploy your “new” switch wherever it is needed. Advanced Router to Switch Configuration For the advanced configuration, you’ll need a copy of DD-WRT installed on your router. Although doing so is an extra few steps, it gives you a lot more control over the process and liberates an extra port on the device. Hook the Wi-Fi router up to the network via one of the LAN ports (later you can switch the cable to the WAN port). Open the administration control panel via web browser on the connected computer. Navigate to the Setup -> Basic Setup tab to get started. In the Basic Setup tab, ensure the following settings are adjusted. The setting changes are not optional and are required to turn the Wi-Fi router into a switch. WAN Connection Type: Disabled Local IP Address: [different than the primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.2] Subnet Mask: [same as the primary router, e.g. 255.255.255.0] DHCP Server: Disable In addition to disabling the DHCP server, also uncheck all the DNSMasq boxes as the bottom of the DHCP sub-menu. If you want to activate the extra port (and why wouldn’t you), in the WAN port section: Assign WAN Port to Switch [X] At this point the router has become a switch and you have access to the WAN port so the LAN ports are all free. Since we’re already in the control panel, however, we might as well flip a few optional toggles that further lock down the switch and prevent something odd from happening. The optional settings are arranged via the menu you find them in. Remember to save your settings with the save button before moving onto a new tab. While still in the Setup -> Basic Setup menu, change the following: Gateway/Local DNS : [IP address of primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.1] NTP Client : Disable The next step is to turn off the radio completely (which not only kills the Wi-Fi but actually powers the physical radio chip off). Navigate to Wireless -> Advanced Settings -> Radio Time Restrictions: Radio Scheduling: Enable Select “Always Off” There’s no need to create a potential security problem by leaving the Wi-Fi radio on, the above toggle turns it completely off. Under Services -> Services: DNSMasq : Disable ttraff Daemon : Disable Under the Security -> Firewall tab, uncheck every box except “Filter Multicast”, as seen in the screenshot above, and then disable SPI Firewall. Once you’re done here save and move on to the Administration tab. Under Administration -> Management:  Info Site Password Protection : Enable Info Site MAC Masking : Disable CRON : Disable 802.1x : Disable Routing : Disable After this final round of tweaks, save and then apply your settings. Your router has now been, strategically, dumbed down enough to plod along as a very dependable little switch. Time to stuff it behind your desk or entertainment center and streamline your cabling.     

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  • mcelog doesn't fails to start PUIAS 6.4 amd hardware

    - by Predrag Punosevac
    Folks, I am a total Linux n00b. I am trying to deploy mcelog on one of my computing nodes running PUIAS 6.4 (i86_64) [root@lov3 edac]# uname -a Linux lov3.mylab.org 2.6.32-358.18.1.el6.x86_64 #1 SMP Tue Aug 27 22:40:32 EDT 2013 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux a free clone of Red Hat 6.4 on AMD hardware [root@lov3 mcelog]# lscpu Architecture: x86_64 CPU op-mode(s): 32-bit, 64-bit Byte Order: Little Endian CPU(s): 64 On-line CPU(s) list: 0-63 Thread(s) per core: 2 Core(s) per socket: 8 Socket(s): 4 NUMA node(s): 8 Vendor ID: AuthenticAMD CPU family: 21 Model: 2 Stepping: 0 CPU MHz: 1400.000 BogoMIPS: 4999.30 Virtualization: AMD-V L1d cache: 16K L1i cache: 64K L2 cache: 2048K L3 cache: 6144K NUMA node0 CPU(s): 0-7 NUMA node1 CPU(s): 8-15 NUMA node2 CPU(s): 16-23 NUMA node3 CPU(s): 24-31 NUMA node4 CPU(s): 32-39 NUMA node5 CPU(s): 40-47 NUMA node6 CPU(s): 48-55 NUMA node7 CPU(s): 56-63 My mcelog.conf file is more or less default apart of the fact that I would like to run mcelog as a daemon and to log errors. When I start mcelog [root@lov3 mcelog]# mcelog --config-file mcelog.conf AMD Processor family 21: Please load edac_mce_amd module. However the module is present [root@lov3 mcelog]# locate edac_mce_amd.ko /lib/modules/2.6.32-358.18.1.el6.x86_64/kernel/drivers/edac/edac_mce_amd.ko /lib/modules/2.6.32-358.el6.x86_64/kernel/drivers/edac/edac_mce_amd.ko and loaded [root@lov3 edac]# lsmod | grep mce edac_mce_amd 14705 1 amd64_edac_mod Is there anything that I can do to get mcelog working? The only reference I found is this thread http://lists.centos.org/pipermail/centos/2012-November/130226.html

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  • Should I enabled 802.3x hardware flow control?

    - by Stu Thompson
    What is the conventional wisdom regarding 802.3x flow control? I'm setting up a network at a new colo and am wondering if I should be enabling it or not. My oh-cool-a-bright-and-shiny-new-toy self wants to enable it, but this seems like one of those decisions that could blow up in my face later on. My network: An HP ProCurve 2510G-24 switch A pair of Debian 5 HP DL380 G5's with built-in NC373i 2-port NIC LACP'd as one link. 9000 jumbo frames enabled. (Application) A pair of hand-built Ubuntu server with 4-port Intel Pro/1000 LACP'd as one link. 9000 jumbo frames enabled. (NAS) A few other servers with with single 1Gbps ports, but one with 100Mbps. Most of this kit is 802.3x. I've been enabling it as I go along, and am about to test the network. But as my 'go live' day nears, I am worried about the 802.3x decision as I've never explicitly used it before. Also, I've read some 10-year old articles out there on the Intertubes that warn against using flow control. Should I be enabling 802.3x hardware flow control?

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  • Error - "IR Hardware not detected" - but it's installed/working

    - by Robert
    I am trying to do: Settings-TV-Set up TV signal. During this process I am getting the error "IR Hardware not detected." With the remote, I can select the "try again" button (to re-detect) and it tries again, so the remote works. Plugging in the "IR blaster" doesn't change anything. (I wouldn't expect any difference, but I read a post which said you needed that. I will get Media Center to change channels if I can get that working - but first things first.) I was able to do the setup months ago when I had cable. and everything was fine. I just got DirecTV. (BTW - During the above process, Media Center detects the signal coming in on channel 3. Windows XP Media Center SP3. The TV Tuner card is a Pinnacle TCTV HD PCI. Everything - and I mean everything - has the latest firmware and drivers - as of 4 months ago when I fixed a different problem. So I DON"T WANT TO HEAR the standard answer to check drivers/firmware. THANK YOU.) Thanks for any help.

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  • Hardware doesn't work some times

    - by Ali
    I have an Asus n51vf laptop. I bought it not long time ago (less than a month) and installed Windows 7 on it. Since that it wasn't new when I bought it, I don't know, if the problem was occuring before re-installing Windows 7. There are two problems, that might (or might not) have something to do with each other: Problem The less annoying problem is that the screen flickers ONLY on YouTube when scrolling and/or pausing/playing the video or moving the curser over the video. The second more timeconsuming problem is that some of the hardware doesn't work when I turn up the computer. Then I have to reboot the computer and try again. Example: I turn on the computer, and the touchpad doesn't work - I then reboot and it works again. This has so far happened to the screen (leading to a black screen), the keyboard and the touchpad. More frequently the mouse. What have I tried to do so far? I tried reeinstalling the touchpad driver (Synaptic Touchpad driver from Asus Support Page) - didn't help at all. I even tried reinstalling the driver when the non-responding mouse on startup-problem occured (using the keyboard), but it asked me to reboot and didn't help at all. I also installed (and reinstalled) the graphics driver; it's a GeForce GT 130M. Now, the problem never occurs spontaneously - it only appears when booting my computer. I can even use the computer for heavy tasks (games, multiple programs running etc.) with no problem at all. I suspect, that the problem is in some booting mechanism that fails: Maybe the Windows driver loading? Motherboard problems?

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  • Hardware issue: computer plays beep sounds at startup, and then turns off

    - by Darkkurama
    Turns out that after moving, my computer got damaged somehow. I installed my computer 2 days ago. I didn't check the state of the hardware parts and turned the pc on recklessly, not realizing that the cpu fan was dettached from the cpu. After this I reattached the fan. The computer worked kind of faulty after that, because at the time of startup, it would play a long beep (different from the normal beep) and won't display anything. I tried restarting after this incident and it got fixed (don't know how, but it did), and I was even able to play some videogames for some hours (more than 5). This morning I tried to get this issue sorted out by checking again the cpu and in general, the connections, and for my surprise, at the time of turning it on again, the computer wouldn't boot at all. I reapplied some thermal paste to the cpu and fan, but got no results (I did this because the old paste was very badly distributted along the surface of both cpu and fan). Now every time I turn it on, the computer acts randomly: sometimes at startup, it plays a long continous beep and then turns off. one time it played a long continous beep and got to the windows password input screen, but then it turned off More frequently, I turn it on and after some seconds, it turns off without any sound. You can check this video I recorded, which features how the computer behaves most of the time Another one I tried troubleshoting it myself by disconnecting my graphic card, rams, HDD and even the cpu and its fan with no result. Computer specs: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 processor, Nvidia xfx gtx 260 black edition, 4 GB ram, 500 GB hard drive, Windows 7 64 bit

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  • Create a partition table on a hardware RAID1 drive with [c]fdisk

    - by Lev Levitsky
    My question is, is there a reason for this not to work? Details: I have two 500 Gb drives, and my motherboard RAID support, so I created a RAID1 array and booted from a Linux live medium. I then listed the disks and, apart from the obvious /dev/sda, /dev/sdb, etc. there was /dev/md126 which, I figured, was the mirrored "virtual" drive. Its size was 475 Gb; I had seen that the size of the array would be smaller than 500 Gb when I was creating it, so no surprise there. I did cfdisk /dev/md126, created the necessary partitions and chose write. It's been about half an hour now, I think. It doesn't seem like it's ever going to finish. The only thing about cfdisk in dmesg is that it's "blocked for more than 120 seconds". Doing fdisk -l /dev/md126 in another terminal I see all three partitions I created and a note that "Partition 1 does not start on a physical sector boundary". The table is lost after reboot, though. I tried to partition /dev/sda individually, and it worked, the table was written in about a second. The "not on a physical sector boundary" message is there, too. EDIT: I tried fdisk on /dev/sda, then there were no messages about sector boundaries. After a reboot, I am able to use mkfs on /dev/dm126p1, etc. fdisk shows that /dev/md126 has the same partitions as /dev/sda (but /dev/sdb doesn't have any). But at some point ("writing superblock and filesystem accounting information") mkfs is also blocked. Using it on sda1 results in a "partition is used by the system" error. What can be the problem? EDIT 2: I booted a freshly updated system from a pendrive and was able to create partition table and filesystems on /dev/md126 without any apparent problems. Was it an issue with the support of the hardware? My MB is Asus P9X79.

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  • Need advise for choosing software\hardware for virtualization.

    - by Anatoly
    Currently we have these servers : Windows SBS 2003 premium on IBM X266 double Xeon F43, 2GB ram. DC, exchange (70 users), Mssql. Windows 2003 R2 32bit on IBM x3400 with double XEON E5310 and 4GB ram. Terminal server (40+ users), ERP application based on uniPaaS platform from Magicsoftware, and Pervasive sql. Ubuntu 8.04 (simple pc box) with squid proxy, GLPI system and PHPBB3 forum for internal use. Recently number of concurrent users on Terminal server passed 40 users in rush hours and it gets stuck frequently. Therefore we need an upgrade. I think about transfer all physical servers to virtual servers based on cluster of 2 physical servers for reducing downtime. I think we will grow till 50-60 concurrent terminal users in rush hours. I also plan to virtualize 10-15 Win XP/7 workstation (office,ERP etc), and there is a little probability for Asterisk\Hylafax for 100 users (if it possible on same VM). Also we need NAS storage for 2-3TB. What hardware upgrade/purchase we need for complete this task? Which VM solution is preferable VmWare or Hyper-V? What backup software should we choose? Acronis or something another? Thank you in advance.

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  • Moving the Windows 7 Pro OEM image to computer with the same hardware

    - by SWin
    We bought 8 clean computers (even without HDD) with the same hardware and bought eight Windows 7 Pro OEM disks. Now I prepare one Win7 installation without activation but with all required programs, settings, etc. Then I'm going to clone the image to other computers even without sysprepping. I'm going to change the product key to legal number at COA sticker on each computer and make the activation through the Internet. Will this scenario work? I know that OEM's license agreement forbids the image cloning and the actions I'm going to do breaks the agreement. According the license agreement I should make the manual clean install of Win7 on each computer. But how Microsoft and other viewers can determine the cloning fact? All computers are the same and license Win7 DVDs are also the same. However in my case the installation time also will the same (and may be kind of installation code or something else) and this is not good. Will the Win7 activation work? Can I be sure that activation will not damage after some time? Can Microsoft determine the cloning fact during the activation process? Thank you.

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  • "could not find suitable fingerprints matched to available hardware" error

    - by Alex
    I have a thinkpad t61 with a UPEK fingerprint reader. I'm running ubuntu 9.10, with fprint installed. Everything works fine (I am able to swipe my fingerprint to authenticate any permission dialogues or "sudo" prompts successfully) except for actually logging onto my laptop when I boot up or end my session. I receive an error below the gnome login that says "Could not locate any suitable fingerprints matched to available hardware." What is causing this? here are the contents of /etc/pam.d/common-auth file # # /etc/pam.d/common-auth - authentication settings common to all services # # This file is included from other service-specific PAM config files, # and should contain a list of the authentication modules that define # the central authentication scheme for use on the system # (e.g., /etc/shadow, LDAP, Kerberos, etc.). The default is to use the # traditional Unix authentication mechanisms. # # As of pam 1.0.1-6, this file is managed by pam-auth-update by default. # To take advantage of this, it is recommended that you configure any # local modules either before or after the default block, and use # pam-auth-update to manage selection of other modules. See # pam-auth-update(8) for details. # here are the per-package modules (the "Primary" block) auth sufficient pam_fprint.so auth [success=1 default=ignore] pam_unix.so nullok_secure # here's the fallback if no module succeeds auth requisite pam_deny.so # prime the stack with a positive return value if there isn't one already; # this avoids us returning an error just because nothing sets a success code # since the modules above will each just jump around auth required pam_permit.so # and here are more per-package modules (the "Additional" block) auth optional pam_ecryptfs.so unwrap # end of pam-auth-update config #auth sufficient pam_fprint.so #auth required pam_unix.so nullok_secure

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  • Directory service unavailiable, new hardware same settings

    - by Alex
    I'm working on a project with 2 sites connected by a VPN. Site 1 has the main server and there is a secondary server at site 2 which I am trying to replace. The current setup works perfectly however I can't for the life of me get the replacement server at site 2 up and running. I'm trying to replace like for like just upgraded hardware. I have installed the OS (all Server 2003 Standard SP2) and used exactly the same settings as the old server. I have setup Active Directory, DNS Server, DHCP Server and WINS Server configured. I have used all the same settings as the old server (except IP address and name). I can access the active directory but I can't do anything; add, edit, delete all returns "the directory service is unavaliable". No-one can login on any of the computers on site 2 and the internet is down. Plugging the old server back in and connecting it to the network rectifies the issue (so both new and old are connected at site 2), everyone can login and the internet is back (curious since the modem connects direct to the switch, and even with the new server online I can connect to the router via IP but not the net). I really don't have much experience but I've been roped into doing this because my company is too cheap to hire a real network admin. Any suggestions of where I can start to troubleshoot this, its driving me crazy and I only have a day before all the users are back on site.

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  • Looking for home networking hardware and software advice

    - by phobos7
    Note: I originally wrote this up in a blog post. I've removed any affiliate links that I put in my original post to ensure I don't annoy anybody. I've recently moved home and I now need to go to the trouble of sorting out my home network yet again. We had Virgin broadband in Hertford but you can't get Virgin in the street we've moved to so I've had to go with O2 Broadband. Normally I prefer to use my own hardward, and previously used the DLink DIR-655 router which was great, but in this situation I am using the O2 Wirelss Box III since I only have an old Netgear DG834PN Wireless G modem router and I'd rather be using Wireless N. Anyway, the place we have moved into has only one phone point in the hallway, has the best TV point in one room and the best place to put the TV and other entertainment stuff in yet another room. So, networking the house up for Internet and TV is required. The diagram below shows the things that I'll have in my home network but there are three points where I'm not quite sure what hardware to us. Wireless Access Point/Bridge, that acts only as a wireless to wire bridge and not an AP, that links up a Media Centre/PC and a couple of consoles to the network. I'm pretty much settled on us an Acer Aspire Revo R3600 as my media PC, probably with Ubuntu or Windows and XBMC installed. Wireless Access Point/Bridge, that acts only as a wireless to wire bridge and not an AP, that links up a device that can decode and stream TV from a TV aerial across the network. The device that is connected to 2). At the moment I'm considering a HDHomeRun by SiliconDust. At the moment I'm considering either the TP LINK TL-WA701ND 150Mbps Wireless Lite N Access Point (very cheap at Amazon) or the Netgear 5 GHz Wireless-N HD Access Point/Bridge. I'd love to get some insight into what you would do in my situation. What Wireless Access Point/Bridge should I put at points 1) and 2)? What device should I choose for point 3) that can decode and stream a TV signal? Is the Acer Aspire Revo R3600 a good choice? ![alt text][6] Note 2: I've also posted this question on AVForums.

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  • How have you saved green by going green?

    - by Bob
    For the purpose of this question, I am interested in server/datacenter related hardware. Have you had any measureable amount of ROI by swapping existing hardware to more "green" or energy efficient hardware? For example, VMWare says you can reduce energy consumption by up to 80% by using virtualization. I have also heard of a cooling solution from HP which is suppose to reduce a small amount of engery usage (<25% I think). Google has also done something by integrating a UPS into their power supplies to reduce energy consumption. Any real world experiences would be great, but if you have any details on initial cost, savings and pay off time about what changes were make that would fantastic. I am not only interested in virtualization, I am interested in anything.

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  • Windows Setup could not configure Windows to run on this computer's hardware

    - by Hello71
    The whole installation goes smoothly up to the point of "Completing installation ...". The monitor changes resolution, after which a standard dialog box pops up saying Windows Setup could not configure Windows to run on this computer's hardware Then, in a few seconds, the whole machine powers down. Trying to restart produces the message: STOP: c000021a {Fatal System Error} 0x00000000 (0xc0000001 0x00100448) OR it boots into Setup and comes up with the message: Windows Setup encountered an unexpected error... (This is not the actual error, just paraphrasing) I tried using the OEM restore instead of a regular install, but it fails with the same error. (Even though it worked before...) General specs: HP Pavilion Elite e9262f Intel Core i5-750 Processor ATI Radeon HD 4650 Hitachi HDT721010SLA360 ATA Device 6GB DDR3 RAM SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Some built-in Wi-Fi module http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01916917 I've tried disconnecting the wireless card and disabling the built-in Ethernet and Firewire via the BIOS, and replacing the wireless keyboard and mouse with wired USB ones. Didn't work. I've also tried changing the SATA controller settings in the BIOS to RAID, AHCI, and IDE, reinstalling each time I changed. Still not working. I think the reason why it is showing the Fatal System Error is because it didn't finish installing before it errored out and shut down, so the system is left in an inconsistent state. I've tried 3 different copies (including the OEM restore) of Windows 7 now, and they're all failing at the same point, with the same error message. I've tried to install Windows 7 maybe 10 times already, with the exact same error message at the exact same location. Hm... Interestingly, the 32-bit version of Windows 7 works, but the 64-bit version doesn't. Perhaps it was a badly burned disk? Reburning the 64-bit version still comes up with the same error. Here's a picture of the side of the case that clearly says it came with Windows 7 64-bit, along with the model number and CPU. sudo fdisk -l: Disk /dev/sda: 1000.2 GB, 1000204886016 bytes 255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 121601 cylinders Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 512 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 512 bytes / 512 bytes Disk identifier: 0x0009896f Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System /dev/sda1 * 1 13 104391 7 HPFS/NTFS /dev/sda2 14 94119 755906445 7 HPFS/NTFS /dev/sda3 119922 121602 13492224 7 HPFS/NTFS /dev/sda4 94120 119922 207257740+ 5 Extended /dev/sda5 119527 119922 3170769 82 Linux swap / Solaris /dev/sda6 107174 119526 99225441 83 Linux /dev/sda7 94120 107173 104856192 7 HPFS/NTFS Partition table entries are not in disk order

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  • Configure spanning tree from HP to Cisco hardware

    - by Tim Brigham
    I have three switches I'd like to configure in a loop - a Cisco stack (3750s) and two HP 2900 series. Each is connected to the next with a 10 gig backplane of one form or another. How do I configure the spanning tree on these systems to make this function correctly? From the documents I've looked at it looks like I need to set both sets of hardware to use MST mode but I'm not sure past that point. The trunking, etc is all set up as needed. HP Switch 1 A4 connected to Cisco 1/0/1. HP Switch 2 B2 connected to Cisco 2/0/1. HP Switch 1 A2 connected to HP Switch 2 A1. HP Switch 1 show spanning-tree Multiple Spanning Tree (MST) Information STP Enabled : Yes Force Version : MSTP-operation IST Mapped VLANs : 1-4094 Switch MAC Address : 0021f7-126580 Switch Priority : 32768 Max Age : 20 Max Hops : 20 Forward Delay : 15 Topology Change Count : 352,485 Time Since Last Change : 2 secs CST Root MAC Address : 0018ba-c74268 CST Root Priority : 1 CST Root Path Cost : 200000 CST Root Port : 1 IST Regional Root MAC Address : 0021f7-126580 IST Regional Root Priority : 32768 IST Regional Root Path Cost : 0 IST Remaining Hops : 20 Root Guard Ports : TCN Guard Ports : BPDU Protected Ports : BPDU Filtered Ports : PVST Protected Ports : PVST Filtered Ports : | Prio | Designated Hello Port Type | Cost rity State | Bridge Time PtP Edge ----- --------- + --------- ---- ---------- + ------------- ---- --- ---- ... A1 | Auto 128 Disabled | A2 10GbE-CX4 | 2000 128 Forwarding | 0021f7-126580 2 Yes No A3 10GbE-CX4 | Auto 128 Disabled | A4 10GbE-SR | 2000 128 Forwarding | 0021f7-126580 2 Yes No HP Switch 2 show spanning-tree Multiple Spanning Tree (MST) Information STP Enabled : Yes Force Version : MSTP-operation IST Mapped VLANs : 1-4094 Switch MAC Address : 0024a8-cd6000 Switch Priority : 32768 Max Age : 20 Max Hops : 20 Forward Delay : 15 Topology Change Count : 19,623 Time Since Last Change : 32 secs CST Root MAC Address : 0018ba-c74268 CST Root Priority : 1 CST Root Path Cost : 202000 CST Root Port : A1 IST Regional Root MAC Address : 0024a8-cd6000 IST Regional Root Priority : 32768 IST Regional Root Path Cost : 0 IST Remaining Hops : 20 Root Guard Ports : TCN Guard Ports : BPDU Protected Ports : BPDU Filtered Ports : PVST Protected Ports : PVST Filtered Ports : | Prio | Designated Hello Port Type | Cost rity State | Bridge Time PtP Edge ----- --------- + --------- ---- ---------- + ------------- ---- --- ---- ... A1 10GbE-CX4 | 2000 128 Forwarding | 0021f7-126580 2 Yes No A2 10GbE-CX4 | Auto 128 Disabled | B1 SFP+SR | 2000 128 Blocking | a44c11-a67c80 2 Yes No B2 | Auto 128 Disabled | Cisco Stack 1 show spanning-tree ... (additional VLANs) VLAN0100 Spanning tree enabled protocol ieee Root ID Priority 1 Address 0018.bac7.426e Cost 2 Port 107 (TenGigabitEthernet2/1/1) Hello Time 2 sec Max Age 20 sec Forward Delay 15 sec Bridge ID Priority 32868 (priority 32768 sys-id-ext 100) Address a44c.11a6.7c80 Hello Time 2 sec Max Age 20 sec Forward Delay 15 sec Aging Time 300 sec Interface Role Sts Cost Prio.Nbr Type ------------------- ---- --- --------- -------- -------------------------------- Te1/1/1 Desg FWD 2 128.53 P2p Te2/1/1 Root FWD 2 128.107 P2p

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  • How to decide on what hardware to deploy web application

    - by Yuval A
    Suppose you have a web application, no specific stack (Java/.NET/LAMP/Django/Rails, all good). How would you decide on which hardware to deploy it? What rules of thumb exist when determining how many machines you need? How would you formulate parameters such as concurrent users, simultaneous connections and DB read/write ratio to a decision on how much, and which, hardware you need? Any resources on this issue would be very helpful...

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  • Open-source navigation software and 3rd party hardware

    - by anttir
    I'm a bit fed up with the current navigator (TomTom) as it turned to adware after six months of use. "Please buy new maps at www.tomtom.com, click this button to see what you wanted to do". Is there any (good) OSS navigation software with support for proprietary hardware? I'm perfectly happy to purchase separate maps and hardware for the software as long as I don't have to give my money to TomTom or Navigon.

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  • Database or website of kernel config files ?

    - by Kami
    I've experienced some kernel panic after trying to compile gentoo kernel for a Sun UltraSPARC T5120 Server. The kernel panic came from a missing support for the SAS disk controller in the menu config. I've wasted so much time because I had no clue about the hardware I was using. I know that the kernel config depends on what you plan to do with your machine but I want to have a configuration file that at least match my hardware ! Is there a website or database that provides menuconfig's kernel configuration files for known or branded hardware like Dell Server or Apple computers ?

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  • What makes it hard to protect from hacks/bots in BF3 and Quake Live?

    - by Jakub P.
    After playing these games, asking other players/admins, and reading online I am led to believe that Quake Live and Battlefield 3 are frequented by bots and there are plenty of hacks of various kinds. I'm confused how this is possible, or even easy seeing how many players have access to these kinds of "tools" (sic). Isn't it possible for the game authors to digitally sign the game executables so that when they run, the server can ensure only the allowed client is sending commands, thus preventing any kind of abuse? I.e. every player command would be signed by a private key, or symmetrically encrypted (not sure which would make more sense). I understand that players can look at the running executable's behavior (memory etc.), but if games are apparently so easy to hack, shouldn't most apps be hacked as well (e.g. Skype, all DRM running on Windows etc.)?

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  • How to find an embedded platform?

    - by gmagana
    I am new to the locating hardware side of embedded programming and so after being completely overwhelmed with all the choices out there (pc104, custom boards, a zillion option for each board, volume discounts, devel kits, ahhh!!) I am asking here for some direction. Basically, I must find a new motherboard and (most likely) re-implement the program logic. Rewriting this in C/C++/Java/C#/Pascal/BASIC is not a problem for me. so my real problem is finding the hardware. This motherboard will have several other devices attached to it. Here is a summary of what I need to do: Required: 2 RS232 serial ports (one used all the time for primary UI, the second one not continuous) 1 modem (9600+ baud ok) [Modem will be in simultaneous use with only one of the serial port devices, so interrupt sharing with one serial port is OK, but not both] Minimum permanent/long term storage: Whatever O/S requires + 1 MB (executable) + 512 KB (Data files) RAM: Minimal, whatever the O/S requires plus maybe 1MB for executable. Nice to have: USB port(s) Ethernet network port Wireless network Implementation languages (any O/S I will adapt to): First choice Java/C# (Mono ok) Second choice is C/Pascal Third is BASIC Ok, given all this, I am having a lot of trouble finding hardware that will support this that is low in cost. Every manufacturer site I visit has a lot of options, and it's difficult to see if their offering will even satisfy my must-have requirements (for example they sometimes list 3 "serial ports", but it appears that only one of the three is RS232, for example, and don't mention what the other two are). The #1 constraint is cost, #2 is size. Can anyone help me with this? This little task has left me thinking I should have gone for EE and not CS :-). EDIT: A bit of background: This is a system currently in production, but the original programmer passed away, and the current hardware manufacturer cannot find hardware to run the (currently) DOS system, so I need to reimplement this in a modern platform. I can only change the programming and the motherboard hardware.

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  • Event notification for ::SCardListReaders() [migrated]

    - by dpb
    In the PC/SC (Personal Computer Smart Card) Appln, I have (MSCAPI USB CCID based) 1) Calling ::SCardListReaders() returns SCARD_E_NO_READERS_AVAILABLE (0x8010002E). This call is made after OS starts fresh after reboot, from a thread which is part of my custom windows service. 2) Adding delay before ::SCardListReaders() call solves the problem. 3) How can I solve this problem elegantly ? Not using delay & waiting for some event to notify me. since a) Different machines may require different delay values b) Cannot loop since the error code is genuine c) Could not find this event as part of System Event Notification Service or similar COM interface d) platform is Windows 7 Any Help Appreciated.

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  • Database Trends & Applications column: Database Benchmarking from A to Z

    - by KKline
    Have you heard of the monthly print and web magazine Database Trends & Applications (DBTA)? Did you know I'm the regular columnist covering SQL Server ? For the past six months, I've been writing a series of articles about database benchmarking culminating in the latest article discussing my three favorite database benchmarking tools: the free, open-source HammerDB, the native SQL Server Distributed Replay Utility, and the commercial Benchmark Factory from Dell / Quest Software. Wondering what...(read more)

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  • Evolution of Apple: A Fan Spliced Mega Tribute to the Apple Product Lineup

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Whether you’re an Apple fan or not, this 3.5 minute tribute to the evolution of Apple products is a neat look back at decades of computing history and iconic design. Put together by Apple fan August Brandels, the video splices together Apple commercials and promotional footage from the last 30 years (remixed against the catchy background tune Silhouettes by Avicii) into a mega tribute to the computer giant. If nothing else they should hire the guy to do motivational videos for annual employee meetings. [via Tech Crunch] HTG Explains: How Antivirus Software Works HTG Explains: Why Deleted Files Can Be Recovered and How You Can Prevent It HTG Explains: What Are the Sys Rq, Scroll Lock, and Pause/Break Keys on My Keyboard?

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  • The HTG Guide to Using a Bluetooth Keyboard with Your Android Device

    - by Matt Klein
    Android devices aren’t usually associated with physical keyboards. But, since Google is now bundling their QuickOffice app with the newly-released Kit-Kat, it appears inevitable that at least some Android tablets (particularly 10-inch models) will take on more productivity roles. In recent years, physical keyboards have been rendered obsolete by swipe style input methods such as Swype and Google Keyboard. Physical keyboards tend to make phones thick and plump, and that won’t fly today when thin (and even flexible and curved) is in vogue. So, you’ll be hard-pressed to find smartphone manufacturers launching new models with physical keyboards, thus rendering sliders to a past chapter in mobile phone evolution. It makes sense to ditch the clunky keyboard phone in favor of a lighter, thinner model. You’re going to carry around in your pocket or purse all day, why have that extra bulk and weight? That said, there is sound logic behind pairing tablets with keyboards. Microsoft continues to plod forward with its Surface models, and while critics continue to lavish praise on the iPad, its functionality is obviously enhanced and extended when you add a physical keyboard. Apple even has an entire page devoted specifically to iPad-compatible keyboards. But an Android tablet and a keyboard? Does such a thing even exist? They do actually. There are docking keyboards and keyboard/case combinations, there’s the Asus Transformer family, Logitech markets a Windows 8 keyboard that speaks “Android”, and these are just to name a few. So we know that keyboard products that are designed to work with Android exist, but what about an everyday Bluetooth keyboard you might use with Windows or OS X? How-To Geek wanted look at how viable it is to use such a keyboard with Android. We conducted some research and examined some lists of Android keyboard shortcuts. Most of what we found was long outdated. Many of the shortcuts don’t even apply anymore, while others just didn’t work. Regardless, after a little experimentation and a dash of customization, it turns out using a keyboard with Android is kind of fun, and who knows, maybe it will catch on. Setting things up Setting up a Bluetooth keyboard with Android is very easy. First, you’ll need a Bluetooth keyboard and of course an Android device, preferably running version 4.1 (Jelly Bean) or higher. For our test, we paired a second-generation Google Nexus 7 running Android 4.3 with a Samsung Series 7 keyboard. In Android, enable Bluetooth if it isn’t already on. We’d like to note that if you don’t normally use Bluetooth accessories and peripherals with your Android device (or any device really), it’s best practice to leave Bluetooth off because, like GPS, it drains the device’s battery more quickly. To enable Bluetooth, simply go to “Settings” -> “Bluetooth” and tap the slider button to “On”. To set up the keyboard, make sure it is on and then tap “Bluetooth” in the Android settings. On the resulting screen, your Android device should automatically search for and hopefully find your keyboard. If you don’t get it right the first time, simply turn the keyboard on again and then tap “Search for Devices” to try again. If it still doesn’t work, make sure you have fresh batteries and the keyboard isn’t paired to another device. If it is, you will need to unpair it before it will work with your Android device (consult your keyboard manufacturer’s documentation or Google if you don’t know how to do this). When Android finds your keyboard, select it under “Available Devices” … … and you should be prompted to type in a code: If successful, you will see that device is now “Connected” and you’re ready to go. If you want to test things out, try pressing the “Windows” key (“Apple” or “Command”) + ESC, and you will be whisked to your Home screen. So, what can you do? Traditional Mac and Windows users know there’s usually a keyboard shortcut for just about everything (and if there isn’t, there’s all kinds of ways to remap keys to do a variety of commands, tasks, and functions). So where does Android fall in terms of baked-in keyboard commands? There answer to that is kind of enough, but not too much. There are definitely established combos you can use to get around, but they aren’t clear and there doesn’t appear to be any one authority on what they are. Still, there is enough keyboard functionality in Android to make it a viable option, if only for those times when you need to get something done (long e-mail or important document) and an on-screen keyboard simply won’t do. It’s important to remember that Android is, and likely always will be a touch-first interface. That said, it does make some concessions to physical keyboards. In other words, you can get around Android fairly well without having to lift your hands off the keys, but you will still have to tap the screen regularly, unless you add a mouse. For example, you can wake your device by tapping a key rather than pressing its power button. However, if your device is slide or pattern-locked, then you’ll have to use the touchscreen to unlock it – a password or PIN however, works seamlessly with a keyboard – other things like widgets and app controls and features, have to be tapped. You get the idea. Keyboard shortcuts and navigation As we said, baked-in keyboard shortcut combos aren’t necessarily abundant nor apparent. The one thing you can always do is search. Any time you want to Google something, start typing from the Home screen and the search screen will automatically open and begin displaying results. Other than that, here is what we were able to figure out: ESC = go back CTRL + ESC = menu CTRL + ALT + DEL = restart (no questions asked) ALT + SPACE = search page (say “OK Google” to voice search) ALT + TAB (ALT + SHIFT + TAB) = switch tasks Also, if you have designated volume function keys, those will probably work too. There’s also some dedicated app shortcuts like calculator, Gmail, and a few others: CMD + A = calculator CMD + C = contacts CMD + E = e-mail CMD + G = Gmail CMD + L = Calendar CMD + P = Play Music CMD + Y = YouTube Overall, it’s not a long comprehensive list and there’s no dedicated keyboard combos for the full array of Google’s products. Granted, it’s hard to imagine getting a lot of mileage out of a keyboard with Maps but with something like Keep, you could type out long, detailed lists on your tablet, and then view them on your smartphone when you go out shopping. You can also use the arrow keys to navigate your Home screen over shortcuts and open the app drawer. When something on the screen is selected, it will be highlighted in blue. Press “Enter” to open your selection. Additionally, if an app has its own set of shortcuts, e.g. Gmail has quite a few unique shortcuts to it, as does Chrome, some – though not many – will work in Android (not for YouTube though). Also, many “universal” shortcuts such as Copy (CTRL + C), Cut (CTRL + X), Paste (CTRL + V), and Select All (CTRL + A) work where needed – such as in instant messaging, e-mail, social media apps, etc. Creating custom application shortcuts What about custom shortcuts? When we were researching this article, we were under the impression that it was possible to assign keyboard combinations to specific apps, such as you could do on older Android versions such as Gingerbread. This no long seems to be the case and nowhere in “Settings” could we find a way to assign hotkey combos to any of our favorite, oft-used apps or functions. If you do want custom keyboard shortcuts, what can you do? Luckily, there’s an app on Google Play that allows you to, among other things, create custom app shortcuts. It is called External Keyboard Helper (EKH) and while there is a free demo version, the pay version is only a few bucks. We decided to give EKH a whirl and through a little experimentation and finally reading the developer’s how-to, we found we could map custom keyboard combos to just about anything. To do this, first open the application and you’ll see the main app screen. Don’t worry about choosing a custom layout or anything like that, you want to go straight to the “Advanced settings”: In the “Advanced settings” select “Application shortcuts” to continue: You can have up to 16 custom application shortcuts. We are going to create a custom shortcut to the Facebook app. We choose “A0”, and from the resulting list, Facebook. You can do this for any number of apps, services, and settings. As you can now see, the Facebook app has now been linked to application-zero (A0): Go back to the “Advanced settings” and choose “Customize keyboard mappings”: You will be prompted to create a custom keyboard layout so we choose “Custom 1”: When you choose to create a custom layout, you can do a great many more things with your keyboard. For example, many keyboards have predefined function (Fn) keys, which you can map to your tablet’s brightness controls, toggle WiFi on/off, and much more. A word of advice, the application automatically remaps certain keys when you create a custom layout. This might mess up some existing keyboard combos. If you simply want to add some functionality to your keyboard, you can go ahead and delete EKH’s default changes and start your custom layout from scratch. To create a new combo, select “Add new key mapping”: For our new shortcut, we are going to assign the Facebook app to open when we key in “ALT + F”. To do this, we press the “F” key while in the “Scancode” field and we see it returns a value of “33”. If we wanted to use a different key, we can press “Change” and scan another key’s numerical value. We now want to assign the “ALT” key to application “A0”, previously designated as the Facebook app. In the “AltGr” field, we enter “A0” and then “Save” our custom combo. And now we see our new application shortcut. Now, as long as we’re using our custom layout, every time we press “ALT + F”, the Facebook app will launch: External Keyboard Helper extends far beyond simple application shortcuts and if you are looking for deeper keyboard customization options, you should definitely check it out. Among other things, EKH also supports dozens of languages, allows you to quickly switch between layouts using a key or combo, add up to 16 custom text shortcuts, and much more! It can be had on Google Play for $2.53 for the full version, but you can try the demo version for free. More extensive documentation on how to use the app is also available. Android? Keyboard? Sure, why not? Unlike traditional desktop operating systems, you don’t need a physical keyboard and mouse to use a mobile operating system. You can buy an iPad or Nexus 10 or Galaxy Note, and never need another accessory or peripheral – they work as intended right out of the box. It’s even possible you can write the next great American novel on one these devices, though that might require a lot of practice and patience. That said, using a keyboard with Android is kind of fun. It’s not revelatory but it does elevate the experience. You don’t even need to add customizations (though they are nice) because there are enough existing keyboard shortcuts in Android to make it usable. Plus, when it comes to inputting text such as in an editor or terminal application, we fully advocate big, physical keyboards. Bottom line, if you’re looking for a way to enhance your Android tablet, give a keyboard a chance. Do you use your Android device for productivity? Is a physical keyboard an important part of your setup? Do you have any shortcuts that we missed? Sound off in the comments and let us know what you think.     

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