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• I can't get my PC to start up by a normal way.

  - by ssice

  I couldn't write a more accurate title. I am just unable to start the computer by pressing the Power On button. I checked the Power Supply and it seems to give good voltage values in every pin. And this is not a BIOS malfunction because of bad overclocking or anything that may come to your mind. And I will tell you why. It happens that EPS (or any ATX-based) power supply has the ability to be powered-on by the Motherboard by jumping the 13th pin of the 24-pin-ATX-connector to COM/GND. I did it, after pushing the power on button (without any visual response) and, pwhaa! The machine turned on. I was able to read (and even write, if I wanted) BIOS values and then start any OS installed. Machine starts, so it's not any kind of misconfiguration. It seems some hardware related. I am able to power the machine on only if I already pushed the power on button. Though pushing it without jumping the 13th pin to ground for a second does not power the machine. Of course, jumping the pin without pushing the power on button does not tell the motherboard anything, so the computer would not start up either. It's as if the logic that connects the power button with the 13th pin derivation to GND was unable to be activated. What can be the issue? How can I solve it? My configuration is as follows: CPU: AMD Phenom 9850 X4 Black Edition MB: ASUS Formula II AM2 RAM: 2x2GB Corsair Dominator 5-5-5-15 2T @ 1066MHz DDR2 Tested also with only 1 module GPU: 2x XFX nVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT XxX Alpha Dog Edition @ Core: 540Mhz [SLi] Power Supply: Xilence 700W (ATX 12V 2.3 / EPS 12V 2.92 compatible) PS: I know the machine is like 2 years old. I hardly use it now, but my parents do.

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• Sudden and frequent hangs on desktop computer: mobo or CPU fault?

  - by djechelon

  I have a desktop computer equipped with an ASUS Crosshair 2 Formula and a Phenom x6 3.2GHz CPU. My problem is that often the computer will hang all of a sudden, completely stopping responding. When that occurs, reset key is inoperative and power button turns the computer off but is unable to turn it back on. I have to physically disconnect power cable. The problem can occur anytime, when I'm booting Windows, when I'm logging in, when I'm listening to a song, when I'm browsing Internet, etc. It always occurs after very few minutes of 3D gameplay I thought it was a video card fault. I had 3 8800GTX so I could try all combinations of them: didn't fix I thought it was a RAM problem: I tried running with only a subset of my DDR2 banks but didn't fix. Almost every time I have to reset and reconfigure BIOS (without AHCI, Win7 won't boot, so I need to restore a few things). If I enable AMD Live, Cool&Quiet or other things from CPU configuration menu I'll be sure that the computer won't reach Windows desktop in 99% of cases (it randomly hangs somewhere in the boot process or even in the BIOS POST). Another interesting thing is that during the POST process the computer always takes unusually long time detecting USB devices (LCD POSTer shows USB INIT), and I've also tried disconnecting all USB devices but didn't take less time to POST BIOS revision is 2702, the latest. Today I found a different behaviour once: during boot screen I got a BSOD with error Stop 0x00000101 A clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor within the allocated time interval, and this is usually related to overclocking, but I never overclocked my CPU. Judging from the description of my problem, hoping someone had the same and fixed, and since I don't have a spare CPU or motherboard for replacement, I'd like to ask if you think this is a problem with faulty CPU or faulty motherboard, and if I can perform additional tests (I mean software tests because of my lack of spare components) to identify the component to replace.

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• How I can fix the "Display Driver has stopped responding and has recovered"?

  - by Vitor Rangel

  I'm using a GeForce GTX 580, with Windows 7 64-bit. The driver version of the GTX is 301.42. The problem happens after a few minutes, when I'm playing specifc games. It won't happen in all games - And I don't have any idea why these games doesn't work. The games that doesn't work: Battlefield 3, Civilization V, Sniper Elite V2. The games that work: Mass Effect 3, Crysis 2, Team Fortress 2, Left 4 Dead 2, Skyrim, L.A. Noire. As you can see, it's not a problem of "The games that demand more stop working". I've tryed updating the driver of the graphics-card, the bios of the motherboard, even formated my computer (It was needing it) and instaled every driver in the last version possible. This problem happens since I bought my graphics-card, 6 months ago. After a few minutes, from 10 to 20, the pixels in the monitor become strange, with random colors and effects, like it was broken. Then, everything goes black, and the message appears "Display Driver has stopped responding and has recovered". After that, I need to close the game and start again. I am not overclocking, and my temperature never goes higher than 70ºC.

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• Getting a "CPU over temperature error", but temperatures seem to be normal

  - by Luis Parker

  I built a PC with the following parts: CPU: i5-2500 Motherboard: Asus P8H67-M EVO rev 3.0 RAM: G-Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1333 Video: GTX 560-Ti 1GB I used a crappy (but functioning) old case and a 500W Powercooler supply. The rig also includes 3 HDs and a DVD-RW. Whenever I push the system mildly it resets right away (looks more like power off/power on) and gives me a "CPU over temperature error". However, BIOS always reports <65ºC for the CPU at the moment of the reset, same as Core Temp and RealTemp. This is RealTemp's log since launching BF3 until the reset (just over 1 minute, as you can see) Just to be sure I've checked the CPU cooler and re-applied the thermal paste twice, but nothing changed. I'm not overclocking at all. What am I missing here? Could it be that the old power supply is generating this error? Maybe the mobo isn't reporting temperatures correctly? I don't have a clue on how to troubleshoot this, help Thanks in advance!

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• Constant crashes in windows 7 64bit when playing games

  - by yx.

  I've tried everything I can possibly think of in trying to fix this problem and I'm totally out of ideas, so any help would be appreciated: The problem: whenever I fire up a game, it works for a short while with no problems and then it would crash. Either its a hard crash, forcing me to reboot, or windows would report that the display driver has stopped working and recovered. Here is a list of things I've already tried: Drivers - tried the latest drivers (catalyst 9.12) as well as the stock drivers that came with the video card. Also have the latest BIOS/chipset Memtest - Ran Memtest86+ overnight, had no problems, the windows diagnostic tool also does not find any problems. Overheating - Video card/cpu temperatures are well below peak (42 and 31 Celsius receptively) PSU Voltage - CPUID shows that the voltage levels are all above what they should be. The PSU itself is only roughly 16 months old and is a good model. HDD - No errors when checked GPU - Brand new (replaced previous card since I thought it was the problem, apparently not) Overclocking - Everything is at stock levels, memory voltage is set to manufacturer's standard Specs: Motherboard: ASUS P5Q Pro CPU: Core 2 Duo E8400 3.0 ghz OS: Windows 7 home premium 64 bit Memory: Mushkin Enhanced 4GB DDR2 GPU: Sapphire HD 5850 1GB PSU: SeaSonic M12 600W ATX12V DirectX: DX11 Event Viewer after a crash always has these logged: A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Bus/Interconnect Error Processor ID: 1 The details view of this entry contains further information. A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Bus/Interconnect Error Processor ID: 0 The details view of this entry contains further information. A previous card that I had (4850x2) also had these errors, so I changed video cards, but the same thing is happening.

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• cannot make ubuntu 64-bit v12.04 install work

  - by honestann

  I decided it was time to update my ubuntu (single boot) computer from 64-bit v10.04 to 64-bit v12.04. Unfortunately, for some reason (or reasons) I just can't make it work. Note that I am attempting a fresh install of 64-bit v12.04 onto a new 3TB hard disk, not an upgrade of the 1TB hard disk that contains my working 64-bit v10.04 installation. To perform the attempted install of v12.04 I unplug the SATA cable from the 1TB drive and plug it into the 3TB drive (to avoid risking damage to my working v10.04 installation). I downloaded the ubuntu 64-bit v12.04 install DVD ISO file (~1.6 GB) from the ubuntu releases webpage and burned it onto a DVD. I have downloaded the DVD ISO file 3 times and burned 3 of these installation DVDs (twice with v10.04 and once with my winxp64 system), but none of them work. I run the "check disk" on the DVDs at the beginning of the installation process to assure the DVD is valid. When installation completes and the system boots the 3TB drive, it reports "unknown filesystem". After installation on the 250GB drives, the system boots up fine. During every install I plug the same SATA cable (sda) into only one disk drive (the 3TB or one of the 250GB drives) and leave the other disk drives unconnected (for simplicity). It is my understanding that 64-bit ubuntu (and 64-bit linux in general) has no problem with 3TB disk drives. In the BIOS I have tried having EFI set to "enabled" and "auto" with no apparent difference (no success). I never bothered setting the BIOS to "non-EFI". I have tried partitioning the drive in a few ways to see if that makes a difference, but so far it has not mattered. Typically I manually create partitions something like this: 8GB /boot ext4 8GB swap 3TB / ext4 But I've also tried the following, just in case it matters: 8GB boot efi 8GB swap 8GB /boot ext4 3TB / ext4 Note: In the partition dialog I specify bootup on the same drive I am partitioning and installing ubuntu v12.04 onto. It is a VERY DANGEROUS FACT that the default for this always comes up with the wrong drive (some other drive, generally the external drive). Unless I'm stupid or misunderstanding something, this is very wrong and very dangerous default behavior. Note: If I connect the SATA cable to the 1TB drive that has been my ubuntu 64-bit v10.04 system drive for the past 2 years, it boots up and runs fine. I guess there must be a log file somewhere, and maybe it gives some hints as to what the problem is. I should be able to boot off the 1TB drive with the 3TB drive connected as a secondary (non-boot) drive and get the log file, assuming there is one and someone tells me the name (and where to find it if the name is very generic). After installation on the 3TB drive completes and the system reboots, the following prints out on a black screen: Loading Operating System ... Boot from CD/DVD : Boot from CD/DVD : error: unknown filesystem grub rescue> Note: I have two DVD burners in the system, hence the duplicate line above. Note: I install and boot 64-bit ubuntu v12.04 on both of my 250GB in this same system, but still cannot make the 3TB drive boot. Sigh. Any ideas? ========== motherboard == gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 CPU == AMD FX-8150 8-core bulldozer @ 3.6 GHz RAM == 8GB of DDR3 in 2 sticks (matched pair) HDD == seagate 3TB SATA3 @ 7200 rpm (new install 64-bit v12.04 FAILS) HDD == seagate 1TB SATA3 @ 7200 rpm (64-bit v10.04 WORKS for two years) HDD == seagate 250GB SATA2 @ 7200 rpm (new install 64-bit v12.04 WORKS) HDD == seagate 250GB SATA2 @ 7200 rpm (new install 64-bit v12.04 WORKS) GPU == nvidia GTX-285 ??? == no overclocking or other funky business USB == external seagate 2TB HDD for making backups DVD == one bluray burner (SATA) DVD == one DVD burner (SATA) 64-bit ubuntu v10.04 has booted and run fine on the seagate 1TB drive for 2 years.

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• help: cannot make ubuntu 64-bit v12.04 install work

  - by honestann

  I decided it was time to update my ubuntu (single boot) computer from 64-bit v10.04 to 64-bit v12.04. Unfortunately, for some reason (or reasons) I just can't make it work. Note that I am attempting a fresh install of 64-bit v12.04 onto a new 3TB hard disk, not an upgrade of the 1TB hard disk that has contained my 64-bit v10.04 installation. To perform the attempted install of v12.04 I unplug the SATA cable from the 1TB drive and plug it into the 3TB drive (to avoid risking damage to my working v10.04 installation). I downloaded the ubuntu 64-bit v12.04 install DVD ISO file (~1.6 GB) from the ubuntu releases webpage and burned it onto a DVD. I have downloaded the DVD ISO file 3 times and burned 3 of these installation DVDs (twice with v10.04 and once with my winxp64 system), but none of them work. I run the "check disk" on the DVDs at the beginning of the installation process to assure the DVD is valid. I also tried to install on two older 250GB seagate drives in the same computer. During every attempt I plug the same SATA cable (sda) into only one disk drive (the 3TB or one of the 250GB drives) and leave the other disk drives unconnected (for simplicity). Installation takes about 30 minutes on the 250GB drives, and about 60 minutes on the 3TB drive - not sure why. When I install on the 250GB drives, the install process finishes, the computer reboots (after the install DVD is removed), but I get a grub error 15. It is my understanding that 64-bit ubuntu (and 64-bit linux in general) has no problem with 3TB disk drives. In the BIOS I have tried having EFI set to "enabled" and "auto" with no apparent difference (no success). I have tried partitioning the drive in a few ways to see if that makes a difference, but so far it has not mattered. Typically I manually create partitions something like this: 8GB swap 8GB /boot ext4 3TB / ext4 But I've also tried the following, just in case it matters: 100MB boot efi 8GB swap 8GB /boot ext4 3TB / ext4 Note: In the partition dialog I specify bootup on the same drive I am partitioning and installing ubuntu v12.04 onto. It is a VERY DANGEROUS FACT that the default for this always comes up with the wrong drive (some other drive, generally the external drive). Unless I'm stupid or misunderstanding something, this is very wrong and very dangerous default behavior. Note: If I connect the SATA cable to the 1TB drive that has been my ubuntu 64-bit v10.04 system drive for the past 2 years, it boots up and runs fine. I guess there must be a log file somewhere, and maybe it gives some hints as to what the problem is. I should be able to boot off the 1TB drive with the 3TB drive connected as a secondary (non-boot) drive and get the log file, assuming there is one and someone tells me the name (and where to find it if the name is very generic). After installation on the 3TB drive completes and the system reboots, the following prints out on a black screen: Loading Operating System ... Boot from CD/DVD : Boot from CD/DVD : error: unknown filesystem grub rescue Note: I have two DVD burners in the system, hence the duplicate line above. The same install and reboot on the 250GB drives generates "grub error 15". Sigh. Any ideas? ========== motherboard == gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 CPU == AMD FX-8150 8-core bulldozer @ 3.6 GHz RAM == 8GB of DDR3 in 2 sticks (matched pair) HDD == seagate 3TB SATA3 @ 7200 rpm (new install 64-bit v12.04) HDD == seagate 1TB SATA3 @ 7200 rpm (current install 64-bit v10.04) GPU == nvidia GTX-285 ??? == no overclocking or other funky business USB == external seagate 2TB HDD for making backups DVD == one bluray burner (SATA) DVD == one DVD burner (SATA) The current ubuntu 64-bit v10.04 system boots and runs fine on a seagate 1TB.

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• What hash algorithms are paralellizable? Optimizing the hashing of large files utilizing on mult-co

  - by DanO

  I'm interested in optimizing the hashing of some large files (optimizing wall clock time). The I/O has been optimized well enough already and the I/O device (local SSD) is only tapped at about 25% of capacity, while one of the CPU cores is completely maxed-out. I have more cores available, and in the future will likely have even more cores. So far I've only been able to tap into more cores if I happen to need multiple hashes of the same file, say an MD5 AND a SHA256 at the same time. I can use the same I/O stream to feed two or more hash algorithms, and I get the faster algorithms done for free (as far as wall clock time). As I understand most hash algorithms, each new bit changes the entire result, and it is inherently challenging/impossible to do in parallel. Are any of the mainstream hash algorithms parallelizable? Are there any non-mainstream hashes that are parallelizable (and that have at least a sample implementation available)? As future CPUs will trend toward more cores and a leveling off in clock speed, is there any way to improve the performance of file hashing? (other than liquid nitrogen cooled overclocking?) or is it inherently non-parallelizable?

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• What hash algorithms are parallelizable? Optimizing the hashing of large files utilizing on multi-co

  - by DanO

  I'm interested in optimizing the hashing of some large files (optimizing wall clock time). The I/O has been optimized well enough already and the I/O device (local SSD) is only tapped at about 25% of capacity, while one of the CPU cores is completely maxed-out. I have more cores available, and in the future will likely have even more cores. So far I've only been able to tap into more cores if I happen to need multiple hashes of the same file, say an MD5 AND a SHA256 at the same time. I can use the same I/O stream to feed two or more hash algorithms, and I get the faster algorithms done for free (as far as wall clock time). As I understand most hash algorithms, each new bit changes the entire result, and it is inherently challenging/impossible to do in parallel. Are any of the mainstream hash algorithms parallelizable? Are there any non-mainstream hashes that are parallelizable (and that have at least a sample implementation available)? As future CPUs will trend toward more cores and a leveling off in clock speed, is there any way to improve the performance of file hashing? (other than liquid nitrogen cooled overclocking?) or is it inherently non-parallelizable?

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• Optimal setup for ASUS P6X58D Premium BIOS (no OC)?

  - by rumtscho

  Normally, I'd trust the mainboard manufacturer to choose the best options as defaults. But I had trouble with the board, because even with Quick Boot enabled, it booted twice as slowly as a Pentium 4 Celeron. Then I changed lots of options at once (most of them weren't explained in the manual, just mentioned with a single sentence) and the boot time is only marginally worse than the Pentium 4 (54 sec against 46 sec from button to pw entering screen). Now I don't know if I have turned something off which should have stayed on. I guess I even won't be able to boot from a CD now, because even though it is present in the boot sequence, I took off a timeout I think it needs to check whether there is a disk in the drive. The second reason is that I don't have an internal HDD, only a SSD. I forgot my sources blush but I am under the impression that today's BIOS and OS options are geared toward booting from a HDD, which is often less than optimal when one boots from a SSD, especially when there are functions which cause avoidable writing cycles, as a SSD wears out after too many writing cycles. Most of the things I've read concern the OS, but there are some BIOS-relevant options too. I am especially confused about the disk mode. The board supports AHCI, IDE-simulation and RAID, but of the different articles I've read, there is a proponent for each and no clear arguments for any. So can one tell me which options are important in general and which are important for a SSD-only system? I don't want to overclock the CPU, so you don't have to say anything about this (yes I know the board is meant for OC:)). I am thinking of overclocking the RAM, since they sold me 1600er heatsinked modules which are running at 1066 now, but I'm not sure yet about that. The rest of the system: i7-930, Intel X25-m G2, 6 GB RAM, GTS 250, some no-name Blue-ray ROM. 2 external HDDs over USB 2.0. Lots of other USB-connected hardware (12 devices I think), no SATA 3 drives (will disabling the controller have an impact on performance?), no LAN, only WiFi. Lucid Lynx 64 bit, no dual boot, no virtual installations. The main uses of the system are: managing and playing/showing all the media stored on the external disks, lots of image manipulation, some video editing, a bit of (non-demanding) gaming, rarely development. Lots of Internet surfing too, but this shouldn't have much impact on performance.

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• Choosing parts for a high-spec custom PC - feedback required [closed]

  - by James

  I'm looking to build a high-spec PC costing under ~£800 (bearing in mind I can get the CPU half price). This is my first time doing this so I have plenty of questions! I have been doing lots of research and this is what I have come up with: http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/p/j4lE Usage: I will be using it for Adobe CS6, rendering in 3DS Max, particle simulations in Realflow and for playing games like GTA IV (and V when it comes out), Crysis 1/2, Saints Row The Third, Deus Ex HR, etc. Questions: Can you see any obvious problem areas with the current setup? Will it be sufficient for the above usage? I won't be doing any overclocking initially. Is it worth buying the H60 liquid cooler, or will the fan that comes with the CPU be sufficient? Is water cooling generally quieter? Is the chosen motherboard good for the current components? And is it future-proof? I read that the HDD is often the bottleneck when it comes to gaming. I presume this is true to other high-end applications? If so, is my selection good? I keep changing my mind about the GPU; first the 560, now the 660. Can anyone shed some light on how to choose? I read mixed opinions about matching the GPU to the CPU. Will the 560 or the 660 be sufficient for my required usage? Atm I'm basing my choice on the PassMark benchmarks and how much they cost. The specs on the GeForce website state that the 560 and the 660 both require 450W. Is this a good figure to base the wattage of my PSU on? If so, how do you decide? Do I really need 750W? The latest GTX 690 requires 650W. Is it a good idea to buy a 750W PSU now to future-proof myself?

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• Graphics card initialisation problems when booting - requires a "double" boot

  - by DMA57361

  Problem Outline When booting from cold (and my machine is disconnected from main power when off, but leaving it connected doesn't help) the graphics card (single PCI-e card GeForce 460) will not initialise on the first boot, leaving me with the motherboards on-board graphics (which kick in automatically if no PCI-e card is found). However, if I restart the computer - normally I do this by powering it off just after the numlock lights up on the keyboard (ie, just after POST/BIOS and before Windows takes over), wait for the system to whirr down, and power up again - the graphics card will work correctly. Once double-booted in this matter the system seems to work correctly - with no noticeable problems. This is reproducible every time I try to boot - it has been working like this for about a month now. Background Information Sept 2010 - I suffered a hardware malfunction (crashes in Windows and graphics corruption on BIOS screens). By way of spare hardware I determined that replacing the PSU removed the issue, so I replaced the PSU with a brand new one of slightly higher power (460W replaced with 500W). Oct 2010 - The problem resurfaced. I purchased a new graphics card (GeForce 460), which removed the problem. The new graphics card immediately started having the boot initialisation problems mentioned. I presumed there was a motherboard fault all along, but because the system worked once booted, and I was temporarily out of spare money, I left the system alone and continued to use it. Early/Mid Dec 2010 - In the space of 5 days I recieved 3 instances of hard drive corruption (seemlingly fixed by chkdsk and sfc in each case...). Since I was already under the impression the motherboard was faulty, I purchased a new one ASAP, this also required new RAM (as I dropped from 4 slots to 2 and didn't want to drop mem quantity). Past 3-4 weeks - With a brand new PSU, Graphics Card, Motherboard and RAM I'm suffering the problem outlined above. So, what could be causing this and how do I can resolve it? Additional Notes Once double-booted the system seems to work entirely correctly. The graphics card problem has occured on two entirely different motherboards. I do not have the opportunity to test the graphics card in a different computer (I've only the old motherboard, which is dubious, or a really old desktop that still has an AGP port). Under load (ie, modern games for long enough for temperatures to plateau) the system remains stable and performs as expected. The software that came with the new motherboard and SpeenFan both report all voltages and temperatures are within nominal bounds, when idle and when under load. I've looking over the BIOS settings for my motherboard multiple times and can find nothing that helps. This system is configured to run with everything at standard levels - no overclocking. I've tried booting the system with only the mobo and graphics card connected (thinking maybe my new PSU was too weak for the new gfx card, even though it meets the quoted PSU requirements for the card) but the same problem persists (and really if the PSU was weak I'd have problems with the system under load). When the gfx card does not initialise the fan on its cooling unit is running, possibly slower than otherwise - but this measurement is by eye and so unreliable.

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• How to diagnose and solve an erratic "HDCP Support Required"?

  - by Jom Orgstrom

  I am playing a digital tv broadcast on Windows Media Center for Windows 7. I built this system so it works with HDCP, and in fact I have been able to watch tv and bluray before with this same computer. However, I suddenly started getting an "HDCP Support Required" error from WMC. The entire message is as follows: HDCP Support Required High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP) may not be supported by the current video card. Use an HDCP-compliant display, video card, and video driver. Or, connect using an analog connection such as component or VGA. Relevant specs are: CPU: Ivy Bridge Core i7-3770 Motherboard: Asus P8H77-I Memory: 16GB DDR3-1600 Graphics: Radeon HD 7850 (Driver by AMD, version 8.982.0.0 built on 2012/07/27) Display: Acer P243w connected by HDMI Sound: Roland Quad-Capture (It complains even when I use the bundled VIA HD Audio) TV Tuner: I-O Data GV-MC7/HZ3 OS: Windows 7 Professional SP1, Windows Update enabled. All patched and up to date. As you can see, there is nothing weird or old about my setup. I am also not doing anything strange, not doing any overclocking, weird system changes and so on. One thing that does happen from time to time, is that the display goes black for a few seconds (sometimes when watching media contents, sometimes when just using photoshop or Visual Studio). This happened with my previous setup as well, so I'd be inclined to think it is a display or cable issue (apart from the BD drive, these are the only things I kept from my previous setup to this one). But being a digital transfer, as far as I know, these things either work or not. Never erratically or with decreased quality. The thing is that sometimes I can watch the TV, sometimes not. This happens with recorded programs as well, so it's not a per-program thing. Sometimes rebooting helps, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes unplugging and plugging back the HDMI connector helps, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes doing so doesn't even turn the screen back on, so I have to reboot. Unfortunately, WMC's error message is quite unhelpful. I'd like to know exactly where the problem is, so I can solve it. I don't want to buy a brand new display just to then find out it was a registry setting that was misconfigured. I've tried looking at the system event viewer, but these errors don't show up at all in there. Other people who have this problem seem to have a setup that is not HDCP compliant, so I turn to you guys here. Anybody knows how to diagnose this problem? Edit: So I got the Cyberlink Blu-ray disc advisor. I ran it and told me everything was okay, except for the Video Connection Type, which showed as "Digital (without HDCP)". I then proceeded to unplug the power cable from the monitor, plugged it in again, ran the tool again, and now it's "Digital (with HDCP)". Needless to say, I can watch my TV and recorded programs on WMP again. I'm guessing that at some point, something may be slightly wrong with the HDCP setup, and Windows decides to reset the entire content protection path (which leads to the screen blanking out). Usually the reset succeeds, but sometimes it doesn't, so Windows defaults to turning HDCP off. There's no way to turn it back on, except by doing a hard reset of the display. I really want to know what the exact error was, so I can fix it. Is it the cable? is it the display? is it the video card? the driver? Also, is there any other way to try and turn HDCP on again without having to hard reset the display? Oh, questions, questions...

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