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• How to speed up a HP M9517C

  - by Jen

  I bought a system with 8GB RAM, 1TB HD, Quad-Core AMD Phenom 9550, Nvidia Geforce 9300GE, 64-bit Windows Vista Machine. Bought it primarily because it was cheap and came with 25.5 inch screen. Problem: It's slow - if you can believe it. My Dell laptop 1525 is faster and more stable! I tried installing and dual-booting Linux Mint and ran into video and audio troubles. I need fast and stable and I'm going for awesome. Anyone have some suggestions on making this thing smoking hot? Vista is fine, but slows over time - suspect virus/spyware/etc.. But I need to use Photoshop, Fireworks, Dreamweaver, Illustrator. I've tried the alternatives and I just don't like them. When you've got deadlines looming you want to work with what you know. Also use Skype (and I had audio problems with it in Linux), gotomeeting, gotowebinar. Don't need MS Office. Tried VMWare, Virtualbox and again - I keep getting audio/video problems. I'd love someone's input on THEIR setup and how they got there. I'm sure I need to upgrade my video card, but what should I go to?

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• ReadyBoost in Windows 7

  - by Robert Koritnik

  I've bought an SD card today for my phot frame, but when I inserted it into my notebook I saw I could use it for ReadyBoost. Some background I'm a .net developer, using VMs and developing web applications (and Sharepoint). I use an HP notebook machine with Core 2 Duo 2GHz + 4GB RAM + 320 7200 HD. I simultaneously run Visual Studio 2010 with some plugins SQL Server Firefox with at least 10 tabs Chrome with about 5 tabs IIS VM with Server 2008 machine Sharepoint and occasionally also Photoshop and some InDesign as well. So I don't let my machine have a break. :D Question If I buy myself some really fast SDHC card (like SanDisk 16GB Extreme 30MB/s - is there anything faster) and use it with my Windows 7 ReadyBoost, will I see any performance gain? Is it going to work something similar to Seagate's HybridDrive Momentus with 4GB of solid state drive? What could I actually expect if I do put this card into my machine? And what would be recommended size? Observations I guess redirecting page file to it would speed up the system. Some VM machines on it would probably run faster as well because they could run parallel to HD host system I guess. Am I right or wrong?

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• How can I most efficiently batch resize images on a Mac?

  - by Nick Douglas

  I've been batch-resizing images through Preview (OS X) through the menu bar, but I want a simpler workflow, since I do this a dozen times a day. What I want: 1. Select a group of image files in finder 2. Hit a button or two (menu item or keyboard shortcut) to do the following: a. Scale all the pictures to 600 pixels wide b. Save as JPG files at 75% quality What I also want: - All of the above, plus step a(1): Crop images to 200 pixel height I can do all that manually, to a batch of files, through Preview. I can do it one at a time with some keyboard shortcuts in Photoshop or Pixelmator. Automator (using Preview) can scale to 600 pixels on the longest dimension, but it doesn't let me specify width. (It can scale specifically to width before cropping height.) It can change to JPG, but it can't specify image quality. And I can assign a keyboard shortcut to the whole process. Is that my best option on a Mac? Can I accomplish this more efficiently through another app like Quicksilver?

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• Data recovery on a corrupted 3TB disk

  - by Mark K Cowan

  Short version I probably need software to run a deep-scan recovery (ideally on Linux) to find files on NTFS filesystem. The file data is intact, but the references are no longer present. Analogous to recovering data from a "quick-formatted" partition. Hopefully there is a smarter way available than deep-scan, one which would recover filenames and possibly paths. Long version I have a 3TB disk containing a load of backups. Windows 7 SP1 refused to detect the disk when plugged in directly via SATA, so I put it on a USB/SATA adaptor which seemed to work at first. The SATA/USB adaptor probably does not support disks over 2.2TB though. Windows first asked me if I wanted to 'format' the disk, then later showed me most of the contents but some folder were inaccessible. I stupidly decided to run a CHKDSK on my backup disk, which made the folders accessible but also left them empty. I connected this disk via SATA to my main PC (Arch Linux). I tried: testdisk ntfsundelete ntfsfix --no-action (to look for diagnostically relevant faults, disk was "OK" though) to no avail as the files references in the tables had presumably been zeroed out by CHKDSK, rather than using a typical journal'd deletion). If it is useful at all, a majority of the files that I want to recover are JPEG, Photoshop PSD, and MPEG-3/MPEG-4/AVI/MKV files. If worst comes to worst, I'll just design my own sector scanner and use some simple heuristic-driven analysis to recover raw binary blocks of data from the disk which appears to match the structures of the above file types. I am unfamiliar with the exact workings of NTFS but used to be proficient at recovering FAT32 systems with just a hex-editor, so I can provide any useful diagnostic information if you let me know how to find it! My priorities in ascending order of importance for choosing the accepted answer: Restores directory structure Recovers many filenames in addition to the file data Is free / very cheap Runs on Linux Recovers a majority of file data The last point is the most important, but the more of the higher points you match the more rep you'll probably get :)

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• I need help choosing between two configurations of the Dell Studio 14

  - by Adnan

  There are two configurations of the Dell Studio 14 (1458) which I'm looking at: Config 1: Core i7-720QM @ 1.6 GHz; ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5450 1GB; 4gb DDR3 RAM @ 1066 MHz; 500 GB SATA HDD @ 7200 RPM; Price: $999 Config 2: Core i5-430M; ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4530 512MB; 4GB DDR3 RAM @ 1066 MHz; 500 GV SATA HDD @ 7200 RPM; Price: $874 What I want to know is, would config 1 still be able to do decent gaming (maybe some Starcraft II), and is there a great performance difference between the i5 and i7 processors? Is the $130 extra worth it for the i7 and better graphics card? I do more than just basic computing. I plan on getting into web design (specifically using Photoshop and Dreamweaver), and I wish to do gaming. I know Conifg 1 is the better value, but I want to be sure that the $130 more is truly worth it. I dont have too much money and want to spend wisely as possible, yet I am a computer geek and plan on doing a lot more than the average user.

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• Computer Comparison - which is "better"

  - by David Murdoch

  A company I work with recently replaced their old server and gave it to me. Their old server is a Dell PowerEdge 2600. I've been playing with the machine and even installed Windows Server 2008 on it...and it seems to run it pretty well. Here are the specs for the two machines: Dev Machine: AMD Athlon64 3000+ 2.38 GHz (overclocked from 1.8GHz [@ 280x8.5] - it is stable-ish) Memory (RAM): 1x1GB OCZ PC3200 (Dual-Channel) 300GB HD OS: Windows XP Pro (32bit) SuperPi 1M digit test: 40 seconds Dell PowerEdge 2600 Server: Intel Xeon CPU 2.8GHz 2.8GHz Memory (RAM): 512MBx2 (PC2700, not dual channel) 68GB HD (RAID 5) OS: Windows Server 2000 (32bit) SuperPi 1M digit test: 56 seconds [using 1 processor] (Themes and Aero-Flass UI turned off, of course) I use my computer to regularly run Photoshop CS5, Illustrator CS5, Flash CS5, 5 browsers (Chrome, FF, IE, Safari, Opera), iTunes, Visual Studio 2010, and Kaspersky Internet Security 2010 [sometimes simultaneously :-) ]. The SuperPi test has my dev machine coming in about 30% faster than the Server machine...though this could be due to the server running "Vista" with background processes prioritized. Do you think it would be realistic/advantageous for me to move from my dev machine to the Dell PowerEdge 2600? Is it possible to install additional DVD drives/burners on the server? Can I install my internal 300 GB hard drive on the server? Can I add some USB 2.0 ports? Note: I'll probably install Win XP Pro on the dev machine if I do switch. If not, are there any creative and useful way for me to take advantage of this server (with the goal of faster computing)?

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• Windows XP seemingly out of resources but plenty of free RAM and swap available

  - by Artem Russakovskii

  This one has been bothering me for years and so far I couldn't find an adequate solution. The problem occurs on pretty much every XP install I've done. After opening a variety of programs or the system running existing programs for a while, Windows seemingly runs out of resources, without telling me. There's ALWAYS free RAM. For example, it just happened to me and I had over a gig of free RAM. There are no viruses, spyware, or other nonsense - it is a Windows resource problem, but the question is which resource is it running out of, how does one pinpoint it, and how does one prevent it? Sometimes, this happens after running specific programs - for example, today it happened when I started Photoshop CS4 and Flash CS4 at the same time. I also noticed that restarting The Bat (email client by Ritlabs) seems to get rid of this problem for a while but again, this happens on machines that don't even have The Bat installed. So what does exactly happen? The symptoms are: pressing alt-tab doesn't bring up the list anymore - it just jumps to the next window instantly, very similar to the way Alt-Esc works, however in this case, it's due to not having enough resources to bring up the alt-tab menu random programs would randomly crash, citing random errors, out of memory errors, system resources, inabilities to do system calls, etc. random programs would start missing random parts - for example, Firefox top menus might disappear, pull up partial selections, or not pull up anymore altogether. IE might lose a few of its toolbars. Some programs might fail to redraw or would just plain go gray where the UI used to be. Windows itself never complains about running out of RAM, virtual memory, or anything at all, yet it's running out of something. The only clue I was able to find and apply the fix today was this Desktop Heap Limitation. I haven't confirmed the fix working as not enough time passed. In the meantime, what are everyone's thoughts?

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• What's the state of the art in image upscaling?

  - by monov

  I like to collect cool pics and use them as wallpapers or for other things. Often, artists publish only low-res versions, probably for fear of theft. Example: Gabriel Pulecio's BIRDS Now, if I want to use that as a wallpaper, I'd have to upscale it, and obviously that'd make it look blurry because of the bicubic interpolation. I realize there's no real way to get a high-res version from a low-res pic, because the information is not simply there. That said, I'm wondering if heuristics have been developed for upscaling with less apparent loss of quality. Those would probably be optimized for specific image types. For photorealistic pictures, for cartoons with large flat areas, for pixel art... One algorithm I'm aware of is Seam Carving. It works for some kinds of pics, especially ones with a plain, undetailed or uninteresting background, and a subject that strongly stands out. But it's far from being general-purpose. Applying it to the above pic produces this. It looks quite sharp, but the proportions are horribly distorted because the algorithm is not designed for this kind of pic. Another is Pixel art scaling algorithms. Those are completely unfit for anything other than actual pixel art that's pixelized to begin with. For example, I tried the scale2x windows binary on my pic, but its output was nearly indistinguishable from nearest-neighbour scaling because the algorithm didn't detect any isolated pixely fragments to work from. Something else I tried was: I enlarged the image in Photoshop with bicubic interpolation, then I applied unsharp mask. The result looks pretty bad. The red blotch is actually resized reasonably well, but the dove is far from it. What I'm looking for is some app that makes a best-effort attempt at upscaling any input image while minimizing blurriness. If you know of any, I'll be thankful. Note that the subjective prettiness and sharpness of the result is what matters... the result doesn't need to be completely faithful to the original small image.

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• Why is Safari on my computer rendering all of the colors -- not just for images -- incorrectly?

  - by richardhenry

  I’m not just talking about image color profile issues; every single color that the browser renders is incorrect. It’s like it’s in it’s own color space (or something!). Screenshot: http://drp.ly/DJk1O (Opera, Safari, Chrome, Firefox) Spot the odd one out? Open this up in Photoshop or similar and try using the eyedropper to select the colour. Safari renders the same hex color completely differently. That color is set using a background-color declaration in CSS, so it should be identical in all four of those browsers. Here’s the HTML I was using: <!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/strict.dtd"> <html lang="en"> <head> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"> <title>untitled</title> <style type="text/css"> body { background-color: #114742; } </style> </head> <body> </body> </html> Literally every website I’m viewing with my install of Safari is displaying colors incorrectly. The blue of the bar on Facebook is slightly less rich. This doesn’t occur on any other Macs I’ve tried. Any idea what’s happened to my Safari install?

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• Expanding to dual video cards

  - by Anthony Greco

  I know a lot of factors can go into play here, so I will list my current hardware and setup: MOBO: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5 [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128441] Processor: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103849] Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) [https://secure.newegg.com/NewMyAccount/OrderHistory.aspx?RandomID=4933910872745320111128011418] Current video card: EVGA 01G-P3-1366-TR GeForce GTX 460 SE [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130591] OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Currently I can run 2 monitors just fine in my setup. However, I want to upgrade this to 4 monitors. My question is, what is the best way to do this? I remember in the past reading I need the same type of video card, however would any GeForce GTX work, or do i need that very specific model (EVGA 01G-P3-1366-TR GeForce GTX 460 SE)? Are there any issues I should be aware of before I order 2 new monitors and a video card? Are there video cards better setup for this? I know NVidia offers SLI, however I do not know if my mobo is compliant. My mobo also offers CrossFireX configuration, though from what it says only Radeon are compliant. Any suggestions / feedbacks on my best route with my current setup is appreciated. Even if you suggest buying 2 new identical video cards, as long as you can mention which and why that is better I really appreciate it. Note: I really do not do any gaming. I sometimes do some 3D work in Unity and very rarely in Maya. Besides that I mostly do all my computer work in Visual Studios and Photoshop. I however need the 2 extra monitors because I monitor sometimes 5 remote desktops at once and switching on only 2 is becoming a very big pain. Also seeing 3 side by side while I work on the 4th will be very helpful. Again, I appreciate any feedback, as I have googled a bunch and just want to make sure what I buy will work.

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• Building a PC for Work and play? [closed]

  - by Derek Organ

  Ok, Its been a long time since I build my own PC so I'm looking to get back into it again and build a new one. First off budget is about €800 excluding the monitor and windows 7 licence and mouse. (just bought a new g500) I plan on using my computer for work, lots of applications open at once but none particularly excessive (photoshop being the most demanding, mostly coding tools) I also use it for some gaming, e.g. COD, Starcraft etc. One thing I do want to do eventually is get a really good monitor with hight resolution and maybe 27" so the graphics card needs to be able to make best use of that. So a few questions 1) Is the bottle neck in performance mostly still the harddrives? 2) Aren't most processors e.g. i5 etc even i3 so far a head of other bottlenecks it makes litte difference the higher you go. Isn't the Graphics card dealing with heavy graphics so what really slows because of a slow CPU? So from this my thinking is to get a SSD drive as my primary drive for OS etc and have loads of memory e.g. 6-8GB and a decent mid level graphics card? It doesn't seem at my level worth spending much on CPU and any other parts really. I basic parts off the top of my head Case, Motherboard CPU SSD Drive SATA Drive Power Supply Memory Cooling (fan?) Graphics Card Network Card Keyboard DVD drive Mouse Windows Monitor Am I missing anything? Any helpful tips or general education much appreciated. Thanks, Derek

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• What applications do people use for windows folder management? How do you switch between folders in

  - by 118184489189799176898

  I'm always switching between client's folders in different applications like photoshop, sql manager, explorer etc. It's so slow to go between them, navigate to the folder and it's still too slow to copy and paste the directory etc. It's so annoying to do. Someone must have a good solution. I was thinking if there was a "recently accessed" folders list available within every folder explorer window... so in any application, if i go "file open" it will have something, somewhere that lists the recently accessed folders - that would be really helpful. I am aware of the recent places folder in win7, but this sucks because it is not sorted by date accessed. Perhaps if there was a way to change this then this would become a decent feature? Is there some application that already does this? i'm sure someone has already solved this issue in a more elegant solution than I can think off. I'm keen to know what programs people use or how people addresss this issue? Thanks...

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• Building a PC, advice on SSD/Hybrid Hard Drives

  - by Jamie Hartnoll

  I am looking at building a new PC, it's mainly for office (graphics heavy) use and programming. Looking for good performance with opening and closing programs and files as well as a fast boot. I plan to have 3 primary hard drives Windows 7 Programs (photoshop etc) Current Files (There'll also be a large storage capacity back up drive, but this will be the Seagate drive I already have.) So, my question is, looking at standard "old fashioned" hard drives and SSD drives, obviously there's a massive price difference. I have been looking at drives like this: http://www.ebuyer.com/268693-corsair-120gb-force-3-ssd-cssd-f120gb3-bk-cssd-f120gb3-bk and this: http://www.ebuyer.com/321969-momentus-xt-750gb-sata-2-5in-7200rpm-hybrid-8gb-ssd-in-st750lx003 Having no experience of using either I don't know what's the most efficient thing to go for. Clearly the SSD will have better performance, but: If, for example, I had an SSD for Windows (say about 100gB), that would clearly give me the boot speed I want, then I guess my real questions are: If I were to buy one more SSD, would it give the greatest improvement on standard performance if used to store programs, or currently used files? Given that the OS is on an SSD, should I not bother with the 3 drives and instead, partition that Hybrid drive to store programs and currently used files on it? Obviously, option two is cheaper and option one could cause me storage issues, but that's when I can dump files I am not currently using onto another drive. Any, I am open to suggestions... so what do you suggest?!

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• HP G61 Laptop wont boot- display stays off, caps and num lock indicators blink repeatedly

  - by Benguy12

  I had my HP G61 laptop running in sleep for a while. When I came back to it about a half-hour later, it was no longer in sleep mode - the power light and the Wi-Fi indicator light were on (I keep Wi-Fi off becuase I use a wired connection) - but nothing was showing on screen. In fact, the display wasn't even turned on. So I let it sit for about 10 minutes but nothing happened. I did a force shut down and rebooted. Instead of a normal boot, the display didnt turn on, the Wi-Fi indicator was off, and the Caps Lock and Num Lock lights just blinked repeatedly. On the external keyboard i use, none of the light indicators were blinking or even on. I tried force shut-down again 10 times, then unplugged all connections except for the power cable (my laptop battery dosent hold a charge for more than 2 minutes, so I always must have a wall connection) and tried to boot again but still nothing happened. I unplugged the battery and even then nothing happened. I also tried booting with the disk drive open, and then with it closed again. On the time it was closed, I was able to successfully boot into Windows, but recieved a "Windows did not shut-down sucessfully" notice. Does anybody know why this may have happened? My PC's specs: Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-bit 4GB of physical RAM, 8GB of vRAM (on a flash drive) AMD Vision x64 processor (don't know any other specs about it) ATI Radeon graphics card, 392 MB DVD-R/W lightscribe drive 2 External hard-disks (first one is 1.5TB, second one is 1TB) custom boot-screen and boot-annimation Standard BIOS apps running before sleep: firefox 10.4 itunes 10.6 adobe photoshop extended CS5.1 rockstar games social club (running in background) microsoft powerpoint 2010 professional edition google chrome I was NOT running Aero or any fancy themes - I was using the normal windows classic theme. I have a desktop icon manager application called Stardock Fences that was also running (it runs as a service/process).

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• Binary data from a serial port in linux using c

  - by user1680393

  I am reading binary data from a serial port on Phidget sbc using Linux to get a command from an application running on a PC. I wrote a test program in VB to read the data into a byte array and convert it to decimal to use it but can’t figure out how to do it in c. I am unable to come up with anything with the research I have done on the internet. Command sent from PC is 0x0F. To check if I am getting correct data I read the data and send it back. Here is what I get back. Returned data has a carriage return added to it. Hex Display 0F00 0000 0D ‘\’ Display \0F\00\00\00\r Normal display just display a strange character. This tells me that the data is there that I can use, but can’t figure out to extract the value 0F or 15. How can I convert the incoming data to use it? I tried converting the received data using strtol, but it returns 0. I also tried setting the port to raw but it did not make any difference. unsigned char buffer1[1]; int ReadPort1() { int result; result = read(file1, &buffer1,1); if(result > 0) { WritePort1(buffer1); sprintf(tempstr, "Port1 data %s %d", buffer1, result); DisplayText(2,tempstr); } return result; } Port Open/Setup void OpenPort1() { //file1 = open("/dev/ttyUSB1", O_RDWR | O_NOCTTY | O_NONBLOCK); file1 = open("/dev/ttyUSB1", O_RDWR | O_NOCTTY | O_NODELAY); if(file1 < 0) printf("Error opening serial port1.\n"); else { SetPort(file1, 115200, 8, 1, 0, 1); port1open = 1; } } void SetPort(int fd, int Baud_Rate, int Data_Bits, int Stop_Bits, int Parity, int raw) { long BAUD; // derived baud rate from command line long DATABITS; long STOPBITS; long PARITYON; long PARITY; struct termios newtio; switch (Baud_Rate) { case 115200: BAUD = B115200; break; case 38400: BAUD = B38400; break; case 19200: BAUD = B19200; break; case 9600: BAUD = B9600; break; } //end of switch baud_rate switch (Data_Bits) { case 8: default: DATABITS = CS8; break; case 7: DATABITS = CS7; break; case 6: DATABITS = CS6; break; case 5: DATABITS = CS5; break; } //end of switch data_bits switch (Stop_Bits) { case 1: default: STOPBITS = 0; break; case 2: STOPBITS = CSTOPB; break; } //end of switch stop bits switch (Parity) { case 0: default: //none PARITYON = 0; PARITY = 0; break; case 1: //odd PARITYON = PARENB; PARITY = PARODD; break; case 2: //even PARITYON = PARENB; PARITY = 0; break; } //end of switch parity newtio.c_cflag = BAUD | DATABITS | STOPBITS | PARITYON | PARITY | CLOCAL | CREAD; newtio.c_iflag = IGNPAR; if(raw == 1) { newtio.c_oflag &= ~OPOST; newtio.c_lflag &= ~(ICANON | ECHO | ECHOE | ISIG); } else { newtio.c_lflag = 0; //ICANON; newtio.c_oflag = 0; } newtio.c_cc[VMIN]=1; newtio.c_cc[VTIME]=0; tcflush(fd, TCIFLUSH); tcsetattr(fd,TCSANOW,&newtio); }

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• Looking for "bitmap-vector" image editor

  - by Borek

  I used to use PhotoImpact which is no longer developed so I'm looking for a replacement. What made PhotoImpact great to me was the ability to work in both bitmap and vector modes. What I mean by that: I could have an image or screenshot and easily add arrows, text captions or shapes to it. These shapes were vector objects so I could come back to them later and amend their properties easily. Software I know of: Paint.NET is purely bitmap so please don't recommend it - layers are not enough for my needs Drawing tools in MS Office work pretty much the way I'd like - you can paste an image and then add vector objects on top of it. It just doesn't feel right to have the full-fidelity original images stored as .docx or .pptx (I don't fully trust Word/Powerpoint that they don't compress the image) I'm not sure about GIMP but if it's just "better Paint.NET" (i.e., layers but no vector objects) I'm not interested Photoshop is out of question purely because of its price tag Corel killed PhotoImpact because they already had a competing product (Paint Shop Pro) but AFAIK it lacks vector features. Any tips for PhotoImpact alternatives would be very welcome.

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• Can I use a Drobo FS over the internet? -Or alternative?

  - by SeniorShizzle

  I have a lot of files. A HUGE Aperture library, lots of design work from Photoshop, and a rather large iTunes library too. I really want to get a Drobo FS, the networked one, to store all of my stuff on, so that I can get to it from my MacBook Air (which obviously with its minuscule 64GB drive can't hold my Aperture library by itself) and my iMac which is my main powerhouse. The dealbreaker for me is that I NEED to be able to access my Aperture library, and especially my iTunes library from across the internet. I understand that it will probably be slow and everything, but there's nothing else I can do besides hauling around a huge hard drive with me. So, is there any way I can somehow share my Drobo across the internet, on a VPN or something? My other alternative is to upload everything to my web host, FatCow, which offers unlimited disk space (something I hope to make them regret) and then access it using Expandrive. My only thoughts with this are that with the Drobo, any work that I do locally will be much snappier than if I have to work everything off the cloud. Any suggestions about alternatives would also be welcome.

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• Kindly guide me to buy a new laptop [on hold]

  - by Its me 007

  I am from India. I want to buy a new laptop. Shortlisted few but confused between which processor,Chip set and Graphics will be the best suited for my requirements. NOTE: NOT ABLE TO POST THE LINKS YOU WILL HAVE TO COPY PASTE IT. SORRY. 1) HP Pavilion 15-N004TX - 4th Gen CI5 - 4200U/4GB RAM/500 GB HDD/ 1GB Radeon Graphic - Rs 39990 www.homeshop18.com/hp-pavilion-15-n004tx-laptop-4th-gen-intel-core-i5-4200u-4gb-500gb-15-6-linux-silver-black/computers-tablets/laptops/product:30989197/cid:16317/ 2) Lenovo Essential G510 (59-398452) - 4th Gen Ci5 4200M/ 4GB/ 500 GB/Win8/2GB Graph ATI Sunpro 8570 - Rs 44969 www.flipkart.com/lenovo-essential-g510-59-398452-laptop-4th-gen-ci5-4gb-500gb-win8-2gb-graph/p/itmdp26eprwf5k5v?gclid=CMnh99GA2LoCFaRU4godNiUAGQ&semcmpid=sem_7847244212_laptopsnew_goog&tgi=sem%2C1%2CG%2C7847244212%2Cg%2Csearch%2C%2C24387103114%2C1t1%2Cb%2C%2Blenovo+%2Bg510%2F59+%2B398452%2Cc%2C%2C%2C%2C%2C%2C%2C2 3) HP Pavilion G6-2303TX Laptop (3rd Gen Ci5 3230M/ 4GB/ 500GB/ DOS/ 1GB Graph) - Rs 40500 www.flipkart.com/hp-pavilion-g6-2303tx-laptop-3rd-gen-ci5-4gb-500gb-dos-1gb-graph/p/itmdm6yzh4gr4cxd?pid=COMDM6YHWMGDRDEZ&ref=1d2b85fc-a03d-4c7d-844b-ec9e8dc95a81 4) HP Pavilion 15-E039TX Laptop (3rd Gen Ci5 3230M/ 4GB/ 1TB/ Win8/ 2GB Graph) - Rs 46690 www.flipkart.com/hp-pavilion-15-e039tx-laptop-3rd-gen-ci5-4gb-1tb-win8-2gb-graph/p/itmdn4d9wykhdcpz?pid=COMDN4CZGFMGJNTN&ref=1d2b85fc-a03d-4c7d-844b-ec9e8dc95a81 Now I am confused between: Which Processor and chipset is best? How much graphic card is enough? (Not a gamer) Is any of this laptop future proof i.e. it should at least support upcoming latest programming softwares which eats more processor and memory. Laptop will be mainly used for multiprocessing.It should be at least capable for following: Visual Studio 2012 and the upcoming versions for at least 4 years SQL server 2008 R2 and above Sharepoint Blend Photoshop Kindly suggest. If anyone know any good laptop with good configuration in the 50k budget kindly suggest. Thanks in advance.

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• Two Firefox windows vs two browsers? Ram Consumption

  - by Kayle

  I don't know enough about Ram & sharing to know what the difference is here. Normally, I run Chrome in one desktop for personal use, and Firefox on a second desktop for business. I like the separation of saved passwords and whatnot. However, I recently learned that I can open two different profiles in Firefox at the same time, so I was wondering if that would be cheaper to my system resources, or not? Out the door, I don't think it would save more than 40-60mb of ram... but I'm wondering, 3 hours later, if ram handling will be better using just one browser for all my heavy lifting. I only have 2gb of ram and I run iTunes and Photoshop as well, almost all day. So I like to save ram where I can. Any thoughts? UPDATE: I've been centering around chrome more recently and using firefox for testing. Dev isn't bad on Chrome and it's great at releasing memory when I close tabs. In retrospect, I think the best answer to this question is simply for me to buy another 2gb of ram.

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• Prevent Outlook 2010 Insert Picture resizing image

  - by Rup

  When I "Insert Picture" a JPEG in Outlook 2010 it automatically resizes the image and, I think, recompresses it too. I realise this would be useful for photographs or for people who try to email 1MB BMPs but I would like to email around an image at the original pixel size without recompression. Is there a way to turn this off, or better still choose settings for each image insert? I found this page in the Office help. It's for Word, PowerPoint and Excel not Outlook but points you at File, Options, Advanced, Image Settings. There's no equivalent section in Outlook. I know Outlook uses Word as its editor so I've looked at Word's settings but there isn't an 'original size' here: there's only 'turn off image recompression' and pick target DPI from 96, 150, 220. I guess Office is finding a DPI value in the JPEG file and scaling it up or down to match this setting. I can't find an equivalent option in Outlook's options menu but there's so many settings and pop-up dialogs I may have missed something. Picture Format, Reset image size resets the image to the rescaled version, not the original. I can't see a way to edit a pixel value into size values in the image properties after insert. Thanks! I realise I can probably achieve this by editing the image metadata in PhotoShop elements or similar but there ought to be a way without editing the file? This is new behaviour in Outlook 2010; 2007 didn't do this.

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• Photo managing software that supports network drives?

  - by musicfreak

  My dad is a photographer in his free time, and he's been using Lightroom to manage his photos. However, recently, we put all of our photos on a NAS drive to allow us to access them from any computer at any time. The problem with this is that Lightroom cannot load catalogs from network drives. We need support for network drives because we'd like to be able to browse the photos from any computer, and for any computer to be able to add photos to the collection. Right now we're just syncing the Lightroom catalog file between us, but the extra step is a pain, and doing it manually makes it error-prone. Is there any software (free or commercial) that has proper support for network drives? The only real feature I need is to be able to sort photos by date and by some sort of tags. I don't need any editing features like those found in Lightroom; my dad is comfortable using Photoshop to edit photos. Also, if there is another solution to this that I haven't thought of, feel free to share.

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• How can I get Windows 8 to automatically disable touch when I am using my Wacom pen and turn it back on when I am not

  - by Robert

  I have an HP convertible tablet computer which I just upgraded to Windows 8. The problem (which existed under Windows 7 as well) is that this tablet has both a capacitive touch screen (with multi-touch) AND a wacom-type tablet built in to the screen that works using electro-magnetic resonance with the provided stylus. My Use Case: Most of the time I am happy using my fingers and the touch interface for navigation and whatnot. However, when I want to get down to serious note-taking/drawing, I want to use the wacom functionality. The problem is that any comfortable writing position has me resting my arm/hand on the screen, which activates the touch technology (despite supposed palm-detection algorithms) and completely screws up my input paradigm. My Ideal Solution: Ideallly, since wacom technology senses when the pen is "close" to the screen, I would love to have touch be automatically disabled whenever the wacom pen is detected, and turned back on when it is out of range. this would allow me to seamless switch between the two input methods, and since I NEVER want to use both at once would work perfectly for me. An acceptable alternative: As a next best option, It would be great to be able to turn off the touch functionality (leaving the wacom in place) whenever I entered specific apps (e.g. OneNote, Photoshop, Gimp, Pencil, etc.) and then have it turn back on when I left that app.... As a worst case at least lets me use my PC option: If I could create a shortcut (tile or otherwise) that flips the touch on and off without going all the way through the nested computer settings, that would be better than nothing. Thanks in advance for the help with 1 or more of the above.

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• How can I pair two bluetooth dongles together?

  - by techaddict

  I want to hack a device which connects via USB, and plug a bluetooth USB dongle to the end of the USB cable (using a female to female adapter), and then connect to that device from another USB bluetooth dongle connected to my computer. How can I do this? It is straightforward? I don't want to spend $30 before I know how to do this. Also I think another concern is that the USB cable is providing power to the device. So I think that means I would also have to hack it for power. I have created this diagram in Photoshop to illustrate my intent: (NOTE: it won't be a USB mouse, as that would be pointless because there are already wireless mice in existence. The mouse is displayed for illustrative purposes) Don't tell me "it won't work". Because I KNOW it WILL work. Think for example, PS3 controller. That works, and in fact I was able to get it working with my laptop, over bluetooth. I just want to know HOW to make it work.

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• How do I disable tablet gestures in windows 8?

  - by ???

  I'm using a Wacom Intuos4 and I have recently upgraded to Windows 8. I don't have a problem when using Photoshop however I occasionally draw on flash based online boards. The problem is, when I drag the pen in a direction repetitively (which is basically all I do when drawing) it's detected as a gesture, sometimes causing Chrome to go to the previous page (left drag) and making me lose the entire thing. Is there a way to disable these "gestures"? I believe this is not something caused by Windows 8 (or Charms) because I run Windows in English although it's not the initial language that Windows was installed in. I changed to English long after the installation. When Windows takes a move as a gesture, a small text pops up next to the cursor informing me about what I have just done and those pop ups are not even in English. I'm sorry for failing to be any more specific here but these gestures could be a feature of either Windows (unlikely), the tablet, Chrome or the computer itself. It's an Acer Aspire and it has one of those little stickers on it that specifies some of the features and one of them reads "Multi-Gesture" (referring to the touchpad, I guess). Could it be that this Multi-Gesture feature somehow decided to expand and apply for my tablet as well? If so, how do I disable it?

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• Despeckle line art

  - by Dour High Arch

  We have a number of line-art charts unfortunately saved as JPEGs. They are now riddled with distracting compression artifacts or "speckles". Is there any way of removing these? I do not have the original files and it will be very difficult to recreate them. I am running Windows 7 and tried Paint.Net; none of the filters help. Posterize washed out all the colors and leaves the speckles. Blur makes text unreadable. Noise Reduction wrecks antialiasing of curved lines, and perversely enhances the speckles, making them look like checkerboards. Yes, I have Googled for software to do this; there are many programs that advertise despeckling but, after my experience with Paint.Net, do not want to experiment with applications that show no before and after images. The only example I have seen that does what I want is from a Photoshop tutorial. I have dozens of files and the tutorial requires considerable manual fine-tuning. I would prefer to automate or batch-process this task. Commercial apps are fine, but I do not want to spend over $600 and learning a complex program for a single task.

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