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• "power limit notification" clobbering on 12G Dell servers with RHEL6

  - by Andrew B

  Server: Poweredge r620 OS: RHEL 6.4 Kernel: 2.6.32-358.18.1.el6.x86_64 I'm experiencing application alarms in my production environment. Critical CPU hungry processes are being starved of resources and causing a processing backlog. The problem is happening on all the 12th Generation Dell servers (r620s) in a recently deployed cluster. As near as I can tell, instances of this happening are matching up to peak CPU utilization, accompanied by massive amounts of "power limit notification" spam in dmesg. An excerpt of one of these events: Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU12: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU0: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU6: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU14: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU18: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU2: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU4: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU16: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU0: Package power limit notification (total events = 11) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU6: Package power limit notification (total events = 13) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU14: Package power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU18: Package power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU20: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU8: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU2: Package power limit notification (total events = 12) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU10: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU22: Core power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU4: Package power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU16: Package power limit notification (total events = 13) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU20: Package power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU8: Package power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU10: Package power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU22: Package power limit notification (total events = 14) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU15: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU3: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU1: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU5: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU17: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU13: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU15: Package power limit notification (total events = 375) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU3: Package power limit notification (total events = 374) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU1: Package power limit notification (total events = 376) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU5: Package power limit notification (total events = 376) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU7: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU19: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU17: Package power limit notification (total events = 377) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU9: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU21: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU23: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU11: Core power limit notification (total events = 369) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU13: Package power limit notification (total events = 376) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU7: Package power limit notification (total events = 375) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU19: Package power limit notification (total events = 375) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU9: Package power limit notification (total events = 374) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU21: Package power limit notification (total events = 375) Nov 7 10:15:15 someserver [.crit] CPU23: Package power limit notification (total events = 374) A little Google Fu reveals that this is typically associated with the CPU running hot, or voltage regulation kicking in. I don't think that's what is happening though. Temperature sensors for all servers in the cluster are running fine, Power Cap Policy is disabled in the iDRAC, and my System Profile is set to "Performance" on all of these servers: # omreport chassis biossetup | grep -A10 'System Profile' System Profile Settings ------------------------------------------ System Profile : Performance CPU Power Management : Maximum Performance Memory Frequency : Maximum Performance Turbo Boost : Enabled C1E : Disabled C States : Disabled Monitor/Mwait : Enabled Memory Patrol Scrub : Standard Memory Refresh Rate : 1x Memory Operating Voltage : Auto Collaborative CPU Performance Control : Disabled A Dell mailing list post describes the symptoms almost perfectly. Dell suggested that the author try using the Performance profile, but that didn't help. He ended up applying some settings in Dell's guide for configuring a server for low latency environments and one of those settings (or a combination thereof) seems to have fixed the problem. Kernel.org bug #36182 notes that power-limit interrupt debugging was enabled by default, which is causing performance degradation in scenarios where CPU voltage regulation is kicking in. A RHN KB article (RHN login required) mentions a problem impacting PE r620 and r720 servers not running the Performance profile, and recommends an update to a kernel released two weeks ago. ...Except we are running the Performance profile... Everything I can find online is running me in circles here. What's the heck is going on?

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• The Power to Control Power

  - by speakjava

  I'm currently working on a number of projects using embedded Java on the Raspberry Pi and Beagle Board.  These are nice and small, so don't take up much room on my desk as you can see in this picture. As you can also see I have power and network connections emerging from under my desk.  One of the (admittedly very minor) drawbacks of these systems is that they have no on/off switch.  Instead you insert or remove the power connector (USB for the RasPi, a barrel connector for the Beagle).  For the Beagle Board this can potentially be an issue; with the micro-SD card located right next to the connector it has been known for people to eject the card when trying to power off the board, which can be quite serious for the hardware. The alternative is obviously to leave the boards plugged in and then disconnect the power from the outlet.  Simple enough, but a picture of underneath my desk shows that this is not the ideal situation either. This made me think that it would be great if I could have some way of controlling a mains voltage outlet using a remote switch or, even better, from software via a USB connector.  A search revealed not much that fit my requirements, and anything that was close seemed very expensive.  Obviously the only way to solve this was to build my own.Here's my solution.  I decided my system would support both control mechanisms (remote physical switch and USB computer control) and be modular in its design for optimum flexibility.  I did a bit of searching and found a company in Hong Kong that were offering solid state relays for 99p plus shipping (£2.99, but still made the total price very reasonable).  These would handle up to 380V AC on the output side so more than capable of coping with the UK 240V supply.  The other great thing was that being solid state, the input would work with a range of 3-32V and required a very low current of 7.5mA at 12V.  For the USB control an Arduino board seemed the obvious low-cost and simple choice.  Given the current requirments of the relay, the Arduino would not require the additional power supply and could be powered just from the USB.Having secured the relays I popped down to Homebase for a couple of 13A sockets, RS for a box and an Arduino and Maplin for a toggle switch.  The circuit is pretty straightforward, as shown in the diagram (only one output is shown to make it as simple as possible).  Originally I used a 2 pole toggle switch to select the remote switch or USB control by switching the negative connections of the low voltage side.  Unfortunately, the resistance between the digital pins of the Arduino board was not high enough, so when using one of the remote switches it would turn on both of the outlets.  I changed to a 4 pole switch and isolated both positive and negative connections. IMPORTANT NOTE: If you want to follow my design, please be aware that it requires working with mains voltages.  If you are at all concerned with your ability to do this please consult a qualified electrician to help you.It was a tight fit, especially getting the Arduino in, but in the end it all worked.  The completed box is shown in the photos. The remote switch was pretty simple just requiring the squeezing of two rocker switches and a 9V battery into the small RS supplied box.  I repurposed a standard stereo cable with phono plugs to connect the switch box to the mains outlets.  I chopped off one set of plugs and wired it to the rocker switches.  The photo shows the RasPi and the Beagle board now controllable from the switch box on the desk. I've tested the Arduino side of things and this works fine.  Next I need to write some software to provide an interface for control of the outlets.  I'm thinking a JavaFX GUI would be in keeping with the total overkill style of this project.

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• Mobile CPU vs. Ultra-low CPU: performance

  - by Mike

  I'm choosing a new laptop and one of the questions is a type of CPU — mobile or ultra-low voltage. If to be more precise, I'm torn between two models of Intel Core i5 — i5-2410M and i5-3317U. Here is a comparison table. According to official specs the first-one has 2.3 GHz clock speed, while the second-one has only 1.7 GHz, that's about 25% difference. Is it really important parameter and which CPU is more preferable for a laptop for development, media and internet purposes?

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• What is the Dell E772c CRT Screen kWh consumption

  - by r0ca

  I have a Dell CRT Screen and the only info I have is this: AC input voltage / frequency / current : 90 to 264 VAC / 50 or 60 Hz + 3 Hz / 1.5 A max. (RMS) at 120 VAC and 0.8 A max.(RMS) at 220 VAC How can I calcultate the energy consumption in Watt for an hour or better, a day. Regards, David.

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• Sun LOM alerts

  - by Jon Topper

  I'm monitoring Sun hardware using SNMP to gather information from the LOM card. One of the datapoints I'm monitoring is a voltage status MIB which alerts if any of the internal voltages becomes too high or low - with the thresholds being set, presumably, by Sun at the time of manufacture. These trigger with surprising frequency - is this anything to worry about?

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• Is it safe to use any USB charger for charging any USB device?

  - by Vineet Menon

  I have an apple USB AC charger which is rated to provide 5V, 1A output and a Sony mp3 player NWZ B143F. I don't know the spec of Sony audio player. But I have another mp3 player from Transcend which is rated to take 5V, 1A input voltage. So, is it safe to assume that Sony or for that matter any mainstream mp3 player would take 5V, 1A as input? Is it safe to use the apple charger with Sony mp3 player?

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• Given power info on a CRT monitor, how can I calculate power consumption (kWh)?

  - by r0ca

  I have a Dell CRT Screen and the only info I have is this: AC input voltage: 90 to 264 VAC frequency: 50 or 60 Hz + 3Hz current: 1.5A max. (RMS) at 120 VAC; or 0.8A max. (RMS) at 220 VAC How can I calculate the energy consumption in Watt-hours for an hour (or better, a day)?

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• Radeon HD4850 serious issues when using DirectX 10

  - by ricsmania

  Hello, I have a problem with my video card. Whenever I run a DirectX 10 game, it works for a few seconds (10 or so) and then starts displaying nothing but big polygons. I have tested this with Crysis and Resident Evil 5, both have the same problems. The same games running under DirectX 9 work fine, except for some small black squares once in a while. I have the following specs: Asus P7P55D LE Intel Core i5 750 Sapphire Radeon HD4850 1GB 2x2GB Patriot Viper II Sector 5, DDR3 1600 MHz OCZ Stealth X Stream 500SXS 500W At first I thought it could be the video card overheating (it has stock cooling), but the game crashes even when it's running at 50 degrees C, and it's never been higher than 70. I also thought it could be the PSU, but as far as I know 500W is enough for this computer, especially because I haven't overclocked anything. My OS is Windows 7 X64 and I am using Catalyst 10.10, but I have also tried many older versions with no success. I don't think there is a problem with the card itself, or else it wouldn't run DirectX 9 games I believe. I have spent many hours searching for a solution but I couldn't, so any help is appreciated. Thank you. EDIT: I did some further investigation about the problem, and it seems taspeotis was right, it might be related to memory. I slightly underclocked the memory from 993 to 965 MHz and the problem went away completely. Both the black squares using DirectX 9 and the weird polygons using DirectX 10. I was using RE DirectX 10 Benchmark, as it consistently crashed around the same point, and now I can play the full benchmark with no artifacts at all. Unfortunately, the underclock has an obvious hit in performance. Although it's not critical, it's definitely noticeable. So, if the video memory test software showed no erros, but the card needs an underclock to work, what might be the problem? Temperature? Voltage? By the way, I couldn't find what the default voltage for this card is. And what is a good software to try and increase it? I tried Ati Tray Tools but it has a bug that increases the clock speed dramatically whenever I change something in the Overclock tab, so I'm afraid it might fry my card. Worst case scenario, if I don't find I solution I will try to slightly increase the GPU clock to compensate for the memory clock. Thank you again.

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• convert home phone wiring to Ethernet

  - by aaa

  can i convert phone wiring in walls to act as only Ethernet network cause the phone wiring is not in use and not connected to the phone company so there is no voltage in the wires i remove the wall plate and i find 6 wires blue,blue/white,green,green/white,orange,orange/white , and i know that Ethernet use 8 here is what i am thinking get Ethernet cable cut it in half and attach wires from wall to the first computer and the same with the other computer so if this is possible do i just attach wires in the same color and ignore brown wire or do i have to rearrange wires , and how much the speed will be thank you in advance

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• convert home phone wiring to Ethernet

  - by aaa

  can i convert phone wiring in walls to act as only Ethernet network cause the phone wiring is not in use and not connected to the phone company so there is no voltage in the wires i remove the wall plate and i find 6 wires blue,blue/white,green,green/white,orange,orange/white , and i know that Ethernet use 8 here is what i am thinking get Ethernet cable cut it in half and attach wires from wall to the first computer and the same with the other computer so if this is possible do i just attach wires in the same color and ignore brown wire or do i have to rearrange wires , and how much the speed will be thank you in advance

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• Sun Fire V20z also with AMD Opteron 256?

  - by Dan

  Hi, I have a SUN Fire V20z with two Opteron 244, which I'd like to upgrade. The official datasheet says that it supports up to Opteron 252. I was wondering if it would also work with AMD Opteron 256, cause they have the same core voltage and socket? Thanks for helping.

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• Graphics card artifacting

  - by White Phoenix

  This is my current build: EVGA X58 (first generation) motherboard Intel i7 965 @ stock clocks 3x 2GB DDR3-1600 Corsair RAM at stock timings and voltages Corsair AX750 80 Plus Gold PSU 1 Optical Drive 1 Seagate 7200.10 500 GB drive 2x Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB drives OCZ Vertex 1 60 GB EVGA GTX 460 Antec 1200 case HT-Omega Striker 7.1 Sound Card Windows 7 32-bit Professional (PAE Enabled) My graphics card started artifacting while I was playing a game. It artifacted, the display blinked, then I got an NVIDIA driver has crashed and recovered message. Kept going, more artifacts, another crash, but this time my display blanked out and I couldn't do anything. Restarted my computer - artifacting is in the BIOS - got to Windows 7 but it BSOD'd before I could even log in. I restarted the computer again - artifacts cleared themselves out and I managed to get to Win7, but it soon started blinking in and out and artifacting again. Checked the card temps and they're well within range. (50 idle, 70 full load) The ambient temperature here is about 80-85F with high humidity. Tried Safe Mode and it still froze up/BSOD'd. Already tried the following to fix this problem: - Reseat the graphics card and swapped in a different slot. - Removed cover on card and sprayed with compressed air to clean it out. - Swapped around memory and/or went with only using one stick at a time. - Underclocked card I called EVGA Tech Support and they said that the voltage on the 12V rail of my Corsair AX750 PSU was on the high end of the "acceptable" range (12.4V, highest within acceptable range is 12.6V - optimal is obviously 12V). They gave me an RMA number anyway, but I want to get a second opinion from you all before I send this thing off, as shipping from where I live to EVGA is kind of pricey. This PSU is only 6 months old. So that I don't have to play RMA tag, which case would be most likely? I'm strapped for cash at the moment so I want to reduce the amount of RMAs I have to do since shipping is expensive here. Is there any surefire way to test to see if it's really the graphics card or the PSU? I tried unplugging any devices that were connected to the 12V rail (except for my SSD and graphics card) as I do have 3 mechanical hard drives, but the voltage for that rail didn't drop (it remained at 12.4V). I'm fairly sure it isn't the drivers since I'm getting the artifacting at the BIOS too. Right now I'm back in Windows 7 but I don't know for how long until it messes up again. Any ideas?

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• Detection of battery status totally messed up

  - by Faabiioo

  I already posted this question in the Ubuntu forum and stackOverflow. I forward it here with the hope to find some different opinions about the problem. I have an Acer TravelMate 5730, which is 3 y.o., running Ubuntu 10.04 LTS. One year ago I changed the battery because the old one died. Since then, everything worked like a charm. A week ago I was using my laptop running on battery; it was charged up to 60%. Suddenly it shut down and for about 24h it was like the battery was totally broken: it didn't charge anymore and the 'upower --dump' said state: critical. I was kind of resigned to buy a new battery, when suddenly the orange light became green: battery was charged and actually working; strangely the battery indicator was stuck to 100%, even after 2 hours running. I tried again with 'upower --dump' or 'acpi -b' commands and it kept saying battery is discharging, though maintaining the percentage to 100%. Thus, battery working fine up to 3 hours, without any warning when it was almost empty, likely to result in a brute shut down. Today something different. the 'upower --dump' command says: ... present: yes rechargeable: yes state: fully-charged energy: 0 Wh energy-empty: 0 Wh energy-full: 65.12 Wh energy-full-design: 65.12 Wh energy-rate: 0 W voltage: 14.481 V percentage: 0% capacity: 100% technology: lithium-ion I tried to boot WinXP and the problem is pretty much the same, with the battery fully-charged, percentage equal to 0% and no way to fix it. While writing, the situation has changed again: present: yes rechargeable: yes state: charging energy: 0 Wh energy-empty: 0 Wh energy-full: 65.12 Wh energy-full-design: 65.12 Wh energy-rate: 0 W voltage: 14.474 V percentage: 0% capacity: 100% technology: lithium-ion ...charging, but it does not charge up. (Recall, the battery lasted 3 hours until yesterday!). So, the big question is: is it an hardware issue, like a dedicated internal circuit is broken? or maybe it is just the battery that must be changed. Or, rather, some BIOS problem that could be fixed in some way. I'd appreciate every help that can shed some light on this annoying problem thanks

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• Possible to bypass laptop inverter power source - HP dv5000 inverter 7 input pins?

  - by Glen Tankersley

  I've got an HP dv5000 laptop with a backlight that won't light up, (but is known to be good). I've also got an inverter board which is good, but isn't getting power from the mobo. So, my question is, would it be possible to bypass the original power source, and hack together some type of externally powered input just for the backlight? If so, does anybody know the input voltage and meaning for the 7 input pins for the inverter board, or how to find out?

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• Build Your Own Adapter For Cheap Mains Power on Portable Devices

  - by Jason Fitzpatrick

  If you’re looking for a way to build a battery-to-wall-power adapter for one of your portable devices, this tutorial can serve as a template for your DIY adventures. Mike Worth wanted an outlet adapter for his Canon camera, but Canon wanted $75 for it. Not looking to spend that kind of cash on a very simple adapter, he set out to build his own. The build is quite simple, consisting of a transformer with the proper voltage, and a set of dummy battery casings with thumb tacks and washers to serve as the negative and positive leads. Hit up the link below to see the full build. Making a Mains Adapter [via Hack A Day] HTG Explains: What Is RSS and How Can I Benefit From Using It? HTG Explains: Why You Only Have to Wipe a Disk Once to Erase It HTG Explains: Learn How Websites Are Tracking You Online

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• Is there any difference between processor and core?

  - by Salvador

  The following two command seems to give me different information about the same hardware srs@ubuntu:~$ cat /proc/cpuinfo | grep -e processor -e cores processor : 0 cpu cores : 4 processor : 1 cpu cores : 4 processor : 2 cpu cores : 4 processor : 3 cpu cores : 4 srs@ubuntu:~$ sudo dmidecode -t processor # dmidecode 2.9 SMBIOS 2.6 present. Handle 0x0004, DMI type 4, 42 bytes Processor Information Socket Designation: LGA1155 Type: Central Processor Family: <OUT OF SPEC> Manufacturer: Intel ID: A7 06 02 00 FF FB EB BF Version: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2500K CPU @ 3.30GHz Voltage: 1.0 V External Clock: 100 MHz Max Speed: 3800 MHz Current Speed: 3300 MHz Status: Populated, Enabled Upgrade: Other L1 Cache Handle: 0x0005 L2 Cache Handle: 0x0006 L3 Cache Handle: 0x0007 Serial Number: To Be Filled By O.E.M. Asset Tag: To Be Filled By O.E.M. Part Number: To Be Filled By O.E.M. Core Count: 4 Core Enabled: 1 Characteristics: 64-bit capable Until today I thought I had a single processor with 4 independent cores. I also thought that within each core can be used different threads.

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• Delphi low-level machine parameter access

  - by tonyhooley.mp

  There are many very low-level parameters measured by PCs and their processors (e.g. core temperatures, fan-speeds, voltage levels at various parts of the motherboard and processor internals) which are available and displayed by the BIOS, and by some aaplication programs. How does one access these low-level (real-time) data via Delphi? Is there a library? Is there a Windows API?

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• Weird Network Behavior of Home Router

  - by Stilgar

  First of all I would like to apologize because what you are going to read will be long and confusing but I am fighting this issue for 3 days now and am out of ideas. At home I have the following setup 50Mbps Internet connects into a home router A 2 desktop computers connect to router A via standard FTP LAN cables including one where the cable is ~20m long. a second router B connects to router A via standard FTP LAN cable X (~20m long). several devices connect to the wireless network of router B and there are a couple of desktop computers connected to it through FTP LAN cables. For some reason computers connected to router B when it is connected via cable X have very slow Internet connection. It is like 5 times slower than what is expected. This is the actual problem I am trying to solve. Interesting facts If a computer is connected to cable X directly instead of through router B the Internet speed is just fine (up to the 50Mbps I get from the ISP). Tested with two computers. I have tried replacing router B with another router C and the problem persists. If I connect router B via another cable to the same ports with the same settings everything seems to work fine and computers connected to router B have quite fast Internet I have tested mainly via Speedtest.net but I have also achieved similar speeds when downloading a file The upload speed is quite higher than the download speed in all cases. Note that my ISP usually has higher upload speed (unless it manages to hit the 50Mbps cap) It seems like the speed when connecting through router B with cable X is reduced 4-5 times no matter what the original speed is. For example via router B I get 10Mbps speed to local servers where I get 50Mbps when connected on router A. If I use a distant server where the ISP is only able to provide 25Mbps I get 4-5Mbps on router B. WiFi is slower than LAN on both routers (which is normal) but the reduced speed is reduced proportionally for WiFi. In addition the upload speed is normally higher from the ISP and it is also reduced proportionally. I have tried two different network configurations. One where I have NAT behind NAT where router B connects to router A via the WAN port and has its own DHCP. Second where router B connects to router A via standard LAN port and has DHCP disabled. In this configuration router B serves as a switch and the Network Gateway for computers connected to router B is the internal IP address of router A. Both configurations work just fine but both manifest the reduced speed issue. pings seem to work just fine As far as I can tell none of the cables is crossed The RJ45 setup for cable X orange orange-white brown brow-white blue blue-white green green-white This is a big problem for me since cable X passes through walls and floors and is very hard to replace. I also may have gotten some of the facts wrong because I am almost going crazy with this issue and testing includes going several floors up and down the staircase. One hypothesis I came up with is that the cable is defective in such a way that the voltage from the router affects its performance. When it is connected to a computer it performs just fine but the router has less power. Related hypothesis includes the cable being affected by electricity cables in the walls when the voltage is low. (I know nothing about electricity) So any ideas what to do, what to test or what the issue may be?

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• Cannot install Windows 7 on new PC (BSOD during installation)

  - by andronz

  Yesterday I had received new hardware and tried to assemble all of it. But when I was installing Windows 7 x64 for two times I got a BSOD, and a error message like this: Your PC has rebooted unexpectly, installation will continue after reboot. I have checked everything and tried to install once more time. It was almost successful, Windows had installed, but I cannot format my disk, open cmd or control panel, boot from DVD etc. It's the first time I have assembled a PC, and I don't know where the problem is, in my hardware or in Windows. My components: MSI z77a-g43 Intel i5 3570k Seagate Barracuda (plug into sata3 slot 6 Gb, there I have also sata 3 Gb slot) Corsair XMS3 (4x4Gb) HIS IceQ Also in the BIOS, I have changed RAM frequency to DDR3 1600 and voltage to 1.65v

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• Is it common to have portable hard drive not recognize?

  - by lamwaiman1988

  I have a bad hard drive which could not be recognized by windows. If windows can recognize it, it could just be pure luck. There are better chance of it being recognize by plugging it at the usb back of the machine, rather than the front one. More interestingly, I have a usb cable which fork itself at one side ( i.e it has 2 heads at one side ). I can plug both heads to the machine and connect the portable hard drive on the other end of the usb cable? Can I get more voltage by doing this? I am guessing the front usb port doesn't have enough power. I am wondering if I buy a new portable usb hard drive, would it have easy read by plugging at the front usb port? I am not sure if I screw up the jumper connecting the front usb ports, but it is okay for other device such as usb stick and mouse.

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• Why would only the cpu fan not spin and no video displayed?

  - by Patrick

  I just built a new computer and when I first powered it on I got a continuous beeping which according to the manual means a power failure. After moving the voltage switch to the left a little I was able to get the beeping to stop. Even after the stopping though the CPU fan doesn't spin, and there is no display on the monitor. All the other fans and lights come on in the computer though, the DVD drive is working and ejects the tray, and the hard drive sounds like it spins up. Has anyone seen this before and know what is wrong or what has failed?

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• What is the crappiest network build you've ever seen?

  - by Ivan Petrushev

  This is only about networks you have seen personaly, not heared from others or seen on pictures at the web. Cables hanging from the ceiling lamps? Cables going trough culverts and other tubes? Switches and other equipment in the cleaner's closet? Cleaning lady's rags drying hanging from the cables? Key to the main node door possesed only by the janitor (or other non-tech and completely non-network-related guy)? Switches powered by foreign power adapters (cheaper and providing non-specified voltage or amperage)? All of this was in my old dormitory. Tell us about your bad experience.

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• Why did my power supply fry itself?

  - by ULTRA_POROV

  I am in europe. There was a switch on my psu that could switch the voltage between 230v and 130v (not 100% sure). In europe we use 230. I switched the psu to 110 and turned it on. Several sparks and a power failiure resulted, the psu was fried. Can someone explain why this happened. I was assuming that because the system was using 230 and the psu only draws 130 it would be safe cause it's less. I guess i was wrong. Can someone explain me the physics behind this.

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• Win 7 BSOD stucks at dumping

  - by AFO

  Recently Ive been getting frequent bsods, which always gets stuck at dumping without finishing it, with most of them showing no error messages. This never happened before i upgraded to new rams, but 2 passes of memtest86 turned out fine. Tried reinstalling windows, problem still there. Tried initiating a manual crash, and that did create a successful dump. The SSD win 7 is on doesn't seem to have any problems, crystaldisk says its healthy. Varied the cpu multiplier between stock and +500Mhz, crashed regardless. Left voltage control to auto. Im fairly sure its a hardware problem, just cant pinpoint which specific part(s). The specs- Windows 7 x64 (1 day old) 955 x4 BE c3 (running at stock) (3.5 years old) GA-970A-D3 (1.5 years old) Gigabyte 6950, unlocked to 6970 (still at 6950 speeds) (<3 years old) 2x4GB 1600 CL9 HyperX Blu (running at 11-11-11, default motherboard setting) (<1 month old) Plextor M5s (around 5 months)

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• Can using higher rated battery damage device?

  - by Anwar Shah

  I am in need of a battery for my Lenovo 3000 Y410 Laptop. It's installed battery has voltage rating of 10.8v. But the shop i've consulted has only a battery of 11.1v rating. Should I buy the battery? I mean, Does using that battery can damage my laptop? An answer with some good source from hardware vendor will be very much helpful. Please do not just put your opinion. Because I do not see any difference in your opinion and my opinion. My opinion is also "It is bad". But I need some reliable source.

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