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  • Using the framework of the problems encountered SharpArch

    - by livebean
    I try to test SharpArch frame, directly in the provided example code to write some code to add test data, but unsuccessful, do not have any information to me! ICustomerRepository customerRepository = new CustomerRepository(); Customer customer = new Customer("Jack Chen"); customer.SetAssignedIdTo("JACKK"); customerRepository.Save(customer); I just had an instance of CustomerRepository operation, do not understand why there is no new data on the data table

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  • what is the best mid/high-end class audio/music creation audio sound card?

    - by Chris
    Hello, I have a computershop myself, and I repair computers. But one of the things I really don't know (yet) is the performace od audio cards for music creation with midi. I have searched and searched and came up with some good reviews, but after browsing for a couple of hours I could't see the trees trough the forrest :-D (it's a dutch expression) At one moment I thought the M-Audio - Delta 1010LT would be a good PCIe card, later on I read that this card was released years ago. (but that could be false information) Also any personal expierence would be great, but not necessairy. I have searched a few cards, and I hope someone can help me make a choice for a friend of mine. He's buget is between $100 and $350 I know there are audio cards from $ 500 - $1850,- this is just too expensive. The following specs are crucial: ASIO Midi Mic in minimal 5.1, 7.1 recommended it's not for airplay, but just to compose music at home. using Ableton and midi keyboard. 1. M-Audio - Delta 1010LT: 8 x 8 analog I/O 2 mic preamps or line inputs S/PDIF digital I/O (coaxial) with 2-channel PCM SCMS copy protection control digital I/O supports surround-encoded AC-3 and DTS pass-through 1 x 1 MIDI I/O directly drive up to 7.1 surround (bass management software included) software controlled 36-bit internal DSP digital mixing/routing +4dbu/-10dBV operation individually switched in software word clock I/O for sample accurate device synchronization 2. RME HDSP 9632: * Stereo Analog Ein- und Ausgang, symmetrisch*, 24-Bit/192kHz, > 110 dB SNR * Optionale Erweiterungsboards mit je 4 symmetrischen Ein- und Ausgängen * Alle analogen I/Os voll 192 kHz-fähig, also keine Reduzierung der Kanalzahl * 1 x ADAT Digital In/Out, 96 kHz-fähig (S/MUX) * 1 x SPDIF Digital In/Out, 192 kHz-fähig * 1 x Breakout Kabel für koaxialen SPDIF-Betrieb* * Also bis zu 16 Ein-und Ausgänge gleichzeitig nutzbar! * 1 x Stereo Kopfhörerausgang, parallel zum analogen Ausgang, aber eigene Pegelanpassung * 1 x MIDI I/O für 16 Kanäle Hi-Speed MIDI über Breakout Kabel * DIGICheck, RMEs einzigartiges Meter- und Analysetool mit Spectral Analyser, Professionelle Level Meter 2/8/16-Kanalig, Vector Audio Scope und diversen weiteren Analysefunktionen * HDSP Meter Bridge: Frei skalierbare Levelmeter mit Peak- und RMS Berechnung in Hardware * TotalMix: 512-Kanal Mischer mit 40 Bit interner Auflösung 3. EMU 1212M (1212 M) PCIe: * Top kwaliteit convertors 24-bit/192kHz convertors. * Hardware gestuurde effecten. * DSP zero-latency hardware mixen en monitoring. * Analoge en digitale I/O plus MIDI. * EMU Production Tools Software Bundle - Cakewalk SONAR , Steinberg Cubase LE, Ableton Live E-MU Edition **EMU 1212M PCI-e inputs/outputs:** * 2 balanced jack inputs. * 2 balanced jack outputs. * 24-bit/192kHz ADAT I/O. * 24-bit/192kHz Coaxiale S/PDif I/O switchable to AES/EBU. * MIDI I/O. 4. M-Audio Audiophile 192: - Up to 24-bit/192kHz audio - 2 balanced analog inputs (1/4” TRS) - 2 balanced analog outputs (1/4” TRS) - S/PDIF digital I/O (coaxial RCA connectors) with 2-channel PCM - SCMS copy protection control - Digital I/O supports surround-encoded AC-3 and DTS pass-through - Direct hardware input monitoring via separate balanced 1/4” TRS monitor outputs - Software routing of inputs and outputs - Digital I/O can be routed to/from external effects - 16-channel MIDI I/O - ASIO, WDM, GSIF 2 and Core Audio driver support for compatibility with most applications - 64-bit driver support for Windows - PCI 2.2 compatibility - Apple G5 compatible - Incompatible exceptions - Includes Ableton Live Lite music production software, so you can make music right away - Works with other Delta cards Technical Specifcations: - Compatibility - ASIO - WDM - GSIF 2 - Core Audio

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  • Sonicwall SSL VPN Login : I need help with a NetExtender initialization error.

    - by jacke672
    I receive the error message: "Server is busy now, please try it later!" after logging into our Sonicwall successfully and attempting to initialize NetExtender for the "virtual office" function. It was set up yesterday and I am able to log in without any issues, but I keep getting hung up on the installation and/or initialization of NetExtender. I have attempted to connect remotely on XP and 7 using both FireFox and IE. I am using a Sonicwall NSA-240 with load balancing active (1 ISP and 2 different connections)- I have tried turning off load balancing and disabling the secondary connection but still receive the same error. I've been in contact with SonicWall support but I haven't heard from them as of yet so I'm asking the Server Fault community in the meantime... Does anyone have any ideas as per what could be the issue? Thanks -Jack

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  • How to Reuse Your Old Wi-Fi Router as a Network Switch

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Just because your old Wi-Fi router has been replaced by a newer model doesn’t mean it needs to gather dust in the closet. Read on as we show you how to take an old and underpowered Wi-Fi router and turn it into a respectable network switch (saving your $20 in the process). Image by mmgallan. Why Do I Want To Do This? Wi-Fi technology has changed significantly in the last ten years but Ethernet-based networking has changed very little. As such, a Wi-Fi router with 2006-era guts is lagging significantly behind current Wi-Fi router technology, but the Ethernet networking component of the device is just as useful as ever; aside from potentially being only 100Mbs instead of 1000Mbs capable (which for 99% of home applications is irrelevant) Ethernet is Ethernet. What does this matter to you, the consumer? It means that even though your old router doesn’t hack it for your Wi-Fi needs any longer the device is still a perfectly serviceable (and high quality) network switch. When do you need a network switch? Any time you want to share an Ethernet cable among multiple devices, you need a switch. For example, let’s say you have a single Ethernet wall jack behind your entertainment center. Unfortunately you have four devices that you want to link to your local network via hardline including your smart HDTV, DVR, Xbox, and a little Raspberry Pi running XBMC. Instead of spending $20-30 to purchase a brand new switch of comparable build quality to your old Wi-Fi router it makes financial sense (and is environmentally friendly) to invest five minutes of your time tweaking the settings on the old router to turn it from a Wi-Fi access point and routing tool into a network switch–perfect for dropping behind your entertainment center so that your DVR, Xbox, and media center computer can all share an Ethernet connection. What Do I Need? For this tutorial you’ll need a few things, all of which you likely have readily on hand or are free for download. To follow the basic portion of the tutorial, you’ll need the following: 1 Wi-Fi router with Ethernet ports 1 Computer with Ethernet jack 1 Ethernet cable For the advanced tutorial you’ll need all of those things, plus: 1 copy of DD-WRT firmware for your Wi-Fi router We’re conducting the experiment with a Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi router. The WRT54 series is one of the best selling Wi-Fi router series of all time and there’s a good chance a significant number of readers have one (or more) of them stuffed in an office closet. Even if you don’t have one of the WRT54 series routers, however, the principles we’re outlining here apply to all Wi-Fi routers; as long as your router administration panel allows the necessary changes you can follow right along with us. A quick note on the difference between the basic and advanced versions of this tutorial before we proceed. Your typical Wi-Fi router has 5 Ethernet ports on the back: 1 labeled “Internet”, “WAN”, or a variation thereof and intended to be connected to your DSL/Cable modem, and 4 labeled 1-4 intended to connect Ethernet devices like computers, printers, and game consoles directly to the Wi-Fi router. When you convert a Wi-Fi router to a switch, in most situations, you’ll lose two port as the “Internet” port cannot be used as a normal switch port and one of the switch ports becomes the input port for the Ethernet cable linking the switch to the main network. This means, referencing the diagram above, you’d lose the WAN port and LAN port 1, but retain LAN ports 2, 3, and 4 for use. If you only need to switch for 2-3 devices this may be satisfactory. However, for those of you that would prefer a more traditional switch setup where there is a dedicated WAN port and the rest of the ports are accessible, you’ll need to flash a third-party router firmware like the powerful DD-WRT onto your device. Doing so opens up the router to a greater degree of modification and allows you to assign the previously reserved WAN port to the switch, thus opening up LAN ports 1-4. Even if you don’t intend to use that extra port, DD-WRT offers you so many more options that it’s worth the extra few steps. Preparing Your Router for Life as a Switch Before we jump right in to shutting down the Wi-Fi functionality and repurposing your device as a network switch, there are a few important prep steps to attend to. First, you want to reset the router (if you just flashed a new firmware to your router, skip this step). Following the reset procedures for your particular router or go with what is known as the “Peacock Method” wherein you hold down the reset button for thirty seconds, unplug the router and wait (while still holding the reset button) for thirty seconds, and then plug it in while, again, continuing to hold down the rest button. Over the life of a router there are a variety of changes made, big and small, so it’s best to wipe them all back to the factory default before repurposing the router as a switch. Second, after resetting, we need to change the IP address of the device on the local network to an address which does not directly conflict with the new router. The typical default IP address for a home router is 192.168.1.1; if you ever need to get back into the administration panel of the router-turned-switch to check on things or make changes it will be a real hassle if the IP address of the device conflicts with the new home router. The simplest way to deal with this is to assign an address close to the actual router address but outside the range of addresses that your router will assign via the DHCP client; a good pick then is 192.168.1.2. Once the router is reset (or re-flashed) and has been assigned a new IP address, it’s time to configure it as a switch. Basic Router to Switch Configuration If you don’t want to (or need to) flash new firmware onto your device to open up that extra port, this is the section of the tutorial for you: we’ll cover how to take a stock router, our previously mentioned WRT54 series Linksys, and convert it to a switch. Hook the Wi-Fi router up to the network via one of the LAN ports (consider the WAN port as good as dead from this point forward, unless you start using the router in its traditional function again or later flash a more advanced firmware to the device, the port is officially retired at this point). Open the administration control panel via  web browser on a connected computer. Before we get started two things: first,  anything we don’t explicitly instruct you to change should be left in the default factory-reset setting as you find it, and two, change the settings in the order we list them as some settings can’t be changed after certain features are disabled. To start, let’s navigate to Setup ->Basic Setup. Here you need to change the following things: Local IP Address: [different than the primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.2] Subnet Mask: [same as the primary router, e.g. 255.255.255.0] DHCP Server: Disable Save with the “Save Settings” button and then navigate to Setup -> Advanced Routing: Operating Mode: Router This particular setting is very counterintuitive. The “Operating Mode” toggle tells the device whether or not it should enable the Network Address Translation (NAT)  feature. Because we’re turning a smart piece of networking hardware into a relatively dumb one, we don’t need this feature so we switch from Gateway mode (NAT on) to Router mode (NAT off). Our next stop is Wireless -> Basic Wireless Settings: Wireless SSID Broadcast: Disable Wireless Network Mode: Disabled After disabling the wireless we’re going to, again, do something counterintuitive. Navigate to Wireless -> Wireless Security and set the following parameters: Security Mode: WPA2 Personal WPA Algorithms: TKIP+AES WPA Shared Key: [select some random string of letters, numbers, and symbols like JF#d$di!Hdgio890] Now you may be asking yourself, why on Earth are we setting a rather secure Wi-Fi configuration on a Wi-Fi router we’re not going to use as a Wi-Fi node? On the off chance that something strange happens after, say, a power outage when your router-turned-switch cycles on and off a bunch of times and the Wi-Fi functionality is activated we don’t want to be running the Wi-Fi node wide open and granting unfettered access to your network. While the chances of this are next-to-nonexistent, it takes only a few seconds to apply the security measure so there’s little reason not to. Save your changes and navigate to Security ->Firewall. Uncheck everything but Filter Multicast Firewall Protect: Disable At this point you can save your changes again, review the changes you’ve made to ensure they all stuck, and then deploy your “new” switch wherever it is needed. Advanced Router to Switch Configuration For the advanced configuration, you’ll need a copy of DD-WRT installed on your router. Although doing so is an extra few steps, it gives you a lot more control over the process and liberates an extra port on the device. Hook the Wi-Fi router up to the network via one of the LAN ports (later you can switch the cable to the WAN port). Open the administration control panel via web browser on the connected computer. Navigate to the Setup -> Basic Setup tab to get started. In the Basic Setup tab, ensure the following settings are adjusted. The setting changes are not optional and are required to turn the Wi-Fi router into a switch. WAN Connection Type: Disabled Local IP Address: [different than the primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.2] Subnet Mask: [same as the primary router, e.g. 255.255.255.0] DHCP Server: Disable In addition to disabling the DHCP server, also uncheck all the DNSMasq boxes as the bottom of the DHCP sub-menu. If you want to activate the extra port (and why wouldn’t you), in the WAN port section: Assign WAN Port to Switch [X] At this point the router has become a switch and you have access to the WAN port so the LAN ports are all free. Since we’re already in the control panel, however, we might as well flip a few optional toggles that further lock down the switch and prevent something odd from happening. The optional settings are arranged via the menu you find them in. Remember to save your settings with the save button before moving onto a new tab. While still in the Setup -> Basic Setup menu, change the following: Gateway/Local DNS : [IP address of primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.1] NTP Client : Disable The next step is to turn off the radio completely (which not only kills the Wi-Fi but actually powers the physical radio chip off). Navigate to Wireless -> Advanced Settings -> Radio Time Restrictions: Radio Scheduling: Enable Select “Always Off” There’s no need to create a potential security problem by leaving the Wi-Fi radio on, the above toggle turns it completely off. Under Services -> Services: DNSMasq : Disable ttraff Daemon : Disable Under the Security -> Firewall tab, uncheck every box except “Filter Multicast”, as seen in the screenshot above, and then disable SPI Firewall. Once you’re done here save and move on to the Administration tab. Under Administration -> Management:  Info Site Password Protection : Enable Info Site MAC Masking : Disable CRON : Disable 802.1x : Disable Routing : Disable After this final round of tweaks, save and then apply your settings. Your router has now been, strategically, dumbed down enough to plod along as a very dependable little switch. Time to stuff it behind your desk or entertainment center and streamline your cabling.     

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  • QoS / PBR Routing Questions

    - by Bernard
    I have a 50Mbs Satellite link and a 10Mbs Microwave link supplying a very remote location. Behind these links, I have a 6,400 seat network - with about 3,000 signed in at any one time. My goal is to send all of the Voip traffic (Google Chat, Magic Jack, Skype, Speakeasy, Vonage, Vonage PC, Yahoo) through the microwave link which has 100ms latency. The rest of the traffic can utilize any remaining bandwidth of the microwave link with excess being diverted to the higher latency (600ms) satellite connection. The problem I've had so far is that most automatic routing configurations weigh the bandwidth heavily for preference - and I'm only wanting latency considered. Additionally, I don't know if this can even be handled with the routing hardware I have at my disposal (Cisco 3640, 3745, & 3845). Any recommendations (or really good starting points) would be greatly appreciated.

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  • v4l - capture and watch at the same time

    - by John Barrett
    Capturing v4l and line-in audio using mencoder works very well, but I would like to record real-time gameplay video from consoles plugged into the video card. I've used xawtv for this (Works quite well, can preview and record in real time), but when I enable any deinterlacing or aspect ration options the video fails to record. I have to record raw and re-encode the video with the appropriate filters later to get something workable. Other things I have tried: tvtime with xvidcap and jack audio capture - xvidcap drops frames and muxing the audio is impossible as it will go out of sync (I have not found muxer options that work to force a correct frame rate) mencoder capture to file, attempt to pipe tail of file to mplayer... mencoder works great, piping the file is far too heavy to attempt gameplay. Soooo, v4l capture and preview simultaneously, recommendations?

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  • Setting up Samba shares on a Linux VPS

    - by 101265052760541259879
    Hi, I'm trying to set up a folder that can be accessed via Windows clients over the net on my Linux VPS on which our companies website resides. I know a little bit about Linux, and have used Samba before to browse Windows shares from a Linux laptop. I'm guessing it's possible to do the reverse - to share a folder from Linux TO a Windows client. I have root SSH access to the VPS, would anyknow know what steps I need to take to set up the share, and how I can secure it, ideally with a simple username/password so the Windows clients can connect easily? Many thanks, Jack

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  • connect 2.1 stereo speakers to LG LCD-TV (5500 series)

    - by rMaero
    I bought a pair of speakers for my dad's TV, LG 32LE5500. When I installed them, it just sounded worse than the integrated ones and that's where I realized the subwoofer didn't work at all and both speakers make lower volume than the internal ones. The audio output jack says "H/P" (standing for headphones, and a matching symbol) before buying I checked this output with my phone's headphones and it worked so I figured it would work with a set of speakers since it's a standard audio output. I guess it's literally for headphones and not any other kind of sound players. There is only one other audio output and it is the optical-digital, so I can't use that. Not at least with these speakers.. am I screwed? or is there any workaround?

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  • Best alternatives to recover lost directories in FAT32 external hard drive?

    - by Sergio
    Hi: I have an 320 GB ADATA CH91 external hard drive. I guess it has some problems with the connector of the USB jack. The point is that in certain occasions it fails in write operations generating data losses. Right now I lost a directory with several GB's of very useful information. Since then I have not attempted to write to the disk any more. What tool would you recommend to recover the lost data? The disk is FAT32 formatted (only one partition) and I use both Linux and Windows. What filesystem format would you recommend to avoid future data losses? I currently only use this external hard drive in Linux so there are several available choices (FAT, NTFS, ext3, ext4, reiser, etc.). Regards, Sergio

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  • Driver to split audio to 2 different devices?

    - by ThantiK
    I recently bought one of these USB headsets against my own better judgement, and it's really costing my sanity at this point. Previously when using a standard jack, I just used a splitter so I could split off the things I was doing with my TV or headset, I could just turn the TV off or the headset volume down should I want to use one at a time. Now, along comes this USB headset and I find that I can't choose for the sound of 1 application to pipe to 2 different devices on Windows; How can I solve this? Does any software out there exist for this purpose?

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  • External microphone not working

    - by haireefairee
    gnome-volume-control does not recognise external hardware. My headphones work nonetheless, but an external microphone does not. External microphones used to work, but at times were temperamental - I would have to login or logout with or without microphone plugged in. I am running Ubuntu 10.04 LTS (Lucid Lynx) on an mSi U100 wind notebook with one Intel soundcard and trying to use a jack microphone which has worked previously. USB microphones have also been problematic. I have done the basics: Installed upgrades. Checked nothing is muted. Looked for the device on gnome-volume-control. Tried using a different microphone that works on a friends computer. Tested my microphone works when using a different computer. Checked my soundcard can be seen (cat /proc/asound/cards). I have done more complicated things: I have tried playing around with settings in alsamixer. Nothing is muted. I can adjust "mic" and "internal mic" regardless of whether an external microphone is plugged in. I have the choice of input source from "mic", "front mic", "line" and "CD". I've played around changing this and it hasn't helped. I only have one CAPTURE option. In gnome-sound-recorder I have the choice of line, microphone 1 and microphone 2. I have played around changing this option. None of these pick up sound from the external microphone. Microphone 2 is the microphone on my laptop which is bad quality. In gnome-sound-recorder I have the choice of different profiles, and changing this has not helped either. I have looked at gstreamer-properties but none of that seemed helpful. I don't know if there a way to check if these external devices are being picked up. I would like to make an external microphone work. Please help!

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  • New CAT5 cable run is unstable - bad jacks? Bad cable?

    - by BeemerGuy
    This is a little project I'm doing at home. I wanted to wire two rooms together (basically, the router is one room, and the switch is in the second room). So I ran a CAT5 between the two rooms, and wired an RJ45 jack in each room. I then hooked up the two jacks with two CAT5 cable to run it through the cable tester, and all 8 wires seem good. Now, when I connect the switch and the router, the connection is unstable -- I ping the router and it barely holds on for two pings before it disconnects, and stays in that unstable state. Just to make sure the router and the switch are ok, I connected them with long wire between the two rooms and the connection is absolutely stable, and pings continuously. What could be the cause for the unstable connection? Especially that it pings a few times, so there IS a connection. But why is it unstable? And how come the cable tester says it's ok, but it's unstable?

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  • TechEd 2012: Day 3 &ndash; Build Me A Solution

    - by Tim Murphy
    While digesting my lunch it was time to digest some TFS Build information. While much of my time is spent wearing my developer’s hat I am still a jack of all trades and automated builds are an important aspect of any project.  Because of this I was looking forward to finding out what new features are available in the latest release of Team Foundation Server. The first feature that caught my attention is the TFS Admin Client.  After being used to dealing with NAnt in the past it is nice to see a build a configuration GUI that is so flexible and well thought out.  The bonus is that it the tools that are incorporated in Visual Studio 2012 are just as feature rich.  Life is good. Since automated builds are the hub of your development process in a continuous integration shop I was really interested in the process related options. The biggest value add that I noticed was merge gated check-ins.  Merge or batch gated check-ins are an interesting concept.  If the build breaks with all the changes then TFS will run separate builds for each of the check-ins.  This ability to identify the actual offending check-in can save a lot of time and gray hair. The safari of TFS Build that was this session was packed with attractions.  How do you set it up builds, what are the different flavors of builds, how does the system report how the build went?  I would suggest anyone who is responsible for build automation spend some serious time with TFS 2012 and VS2012. del.icio.us Tags: Team Foundation Server 2012,TFS,Build,TechEd,TechEd 2012,Visual Studio 2012

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  • VPN server to access Samba4

    - by VisionIncision
    On my network I have an Ubuntu 12.04 server running Samba4, my domain is fully configured and functional. Now, I would like to enable VPN access over the internet, and have another box to do so. I have been searching on the internet for guides and information etc, but have not been successful. I have however found this guide http://www.howtogeek.com/51237/setting-up-a-vpn-pptp-server-on-debian/ but was wondering if I could adapt it somehow to enable access to my DC services. EDIT: I would need to authenticate my VPN server with my DC, if that is possible of course. Any insight would be wonderful. Regards, Jack Hunt

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  • Use external speakers with laptop hooked to separate monitor?

    - by lhan16
    I have a laptop with a set of external speakers hooked up to it on my computer desk. The speakers use the standard 3.5mm audio (headphones) jack. The speakers work fine, but I've recently added a separate monitor to my laptop via HDMI. With the monitor hooked up to my laptop and the speakers still hooked up to the laptop, sound will only come out of the built-in monitor speakers. When I look at my audio settings, there are three different "audio playback devices" showing up, but only the built-in monitor speakers make noise when I click "test" (and I hear nothing when I set any of the other devices as the default. Does anyone know how I can still use my external speakers when using a separate monitor with my laptop? I'm hoping there is a solution that doesn't require the laptop to be open or closed, because I use both scenarios. I came across this post, but it doesn't look like they had much luck.

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  • Should programmers itemize testing for projects? [on hold]

    - by Patton77
    I recently hired a programming team to do a port of my iPad app to the iPhone and Android platforms. Now, in a separate contract, I am asking them to implement a bunch of tips on how to play the app, similar like you would find in Candy Crush or Cut the Rope. They want to charge 12 hours @ $35/hr for the "Testing all of the Tips", telling me that normally it would take them more than 25 hours but that they will 'bear the difference'. I am not familiar with this level of itemization, but maybe it's a new practice? I am used to devs doing their own quality control, and then having a testing/acceptance period. They are using Cocos 2D-X, and they say that the tips going to multiple platforms makes all of the hours jack up. I feel like they might be overcharging, and it's difficult for me to know because it's kind of like with a mechanic. "It took us 5 hours to replace the radiator". How can you dispute that? It seems to me that most of you would charge for the work but NOT for hours that you are 'testing'. Am I missing something? Thanks for any help and advice you can give!

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  • Should programmers itemize testing in testing? [on hold]

    - by Patton77
    I recently hired a programming team to do a port of my iPad app to the iPhone and Android platforms. Now, in a separate contract, I am asking them to implement a bunch of tips on how to play the app, similar like you would find in Candy Crush or Cut the Rope. They want to charge 12 hours @ $35/hr for the "Testing all of the Tips", telling me that normally it would take them more than 25 hours but that they will 'bear the difference'. I am not familiar with this level of itemization, but maybe it's a new practice? I am used to devs doing their own quality control, and then having a testing/acceptance period. They are using Cocos 2D-X, and they say that the tips going to multiple platforms makes all of the hours jack up. I feel like they might be overcharging, and it's difficult for me to know because it's kind of like with a mechanic. "It took us 5 hours to replace the radiator". How can you dispute that? It seems to me that most of you would charge for the work but NOT for hours that you are 'testing'. Am I missing something? Thanks for any help and advice you can give!

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  • What decent audio recording interfaces are well supported in Windows 7 64bit?

    - by labradort
    I currently have an Audigy 2 ZS Platinum. It permits me to insert a 1/4" jack line from bass guitar and play along with pre-recorded piano music. This worked fine under Windows XP. I am moving to Windows 7 64 bit (dual boot for now), and Creative may not develop fully working drivers for this component. Looking around, I don't see Windows 7 support mentioned at product web sites from E-MU, Roland, M-Audio, etc. Even at Creative, the posting of available drivers for Windows 7 is deceptive, as they do not adequately support recording (latency, distortion). My local music store shrugs and says to stay with Win XP. In some cases, the Vista drivers will work in Win 7. So I need real world feedback on this. I should also mention I'm not impressed with available USB interfaces - they have too low of a signal to noise ratio for my purposes. That leaves PCI, or possibly firewire devices (never tried one yet).

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  • How to install audio drivers for Acer Revo nettop?

    - by CT
    I have a Acer Revo nettop. I wiped the XP Home install that came on the machine and put XP Pro on. Acer's support website would lead you to believe that this product does not exist. I know it has a NVIDIA ION LE chipset so I headed over to nvidia.com to download drivers. Ive downloaded and installed the Chipset drivers, Graphics Drivers, and HDMI audio drivers. I have no sound. Under Device Manager there is an unknown Audio Device on High Definition Audio Bus. I do not have an HDMI cable to test hdmi audio. I would just like the standard audio mini-jack output to work. Anyone know of the correct driver or a generic driver that would work? Thanks

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  • Fiber-Optic Cable Trick Brings Remote Triggering to Older Flashes

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Many older flashes lack for a jack to input a sync cable and rely exclusively on a simple slave mode triggered by the primary flash. This hack uses a piece of scrap fiber optic cable to trigger the flash in bright conditions. Using a flash as an optical slave indoors isn’t much of a problem, but if you introduce bright light (such as outdoor lighting conditions), the ambient light can overpower the small on-camera flash and render the optical slave function useless. To overcome this, Marcell over at Fiber Strobe (a blog dedicated to cataloging experiments in incorporating fiber optics into photography) came up with a simple work around. By using some foam crafting materials and tape, he whipped up a simple mount for a strand of scrap fiber optic cable to connect between the on-camera flash and the sensor on the slave flash. Once attached it works exactly like as sync cable would, except it’s transmitting a pulse of light instead of a pulse of electricity. Hit up the link below for more pictures and a build guide. DIY Fiber Sync Cord [via DIY Photography] HTG Explains: What Is Windows RT and What Does It Mean To Me? HTG Explains: How Windows 8′s Secure Boot Feature Works & What It Means for Linux Hack Your Kindle for Easy Font Customization

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  • Dual LAN Printing

    - by Christopher
    I want to use Ubuntu 10.10 Server in a classroom, a computer lab whose bandwidth is provided by a local cable ISP. That's no problem, though the school network has an IP printer that I want to use. I cannot reach the printer through the cable Internet. But, I have two network cards. How is it possible to use both networks at once? eth0 (static 192.168.1.254) is plugged into a four-port router, 192.168.1.1. On the public side of the four-port router is Internet provided by the cable company. I also have the classroom workstations plugged into a switch. The switch is plugged into the four-port router. The whole classroom is wired into the cable Internet. The other NIC, eth1, could it be plugged into an Ethernet jack in the wall? It uses the school network, and I might receive by DHCP an IP address like 10.140.10.100, with the printer on maybe 10.120.50.10. I was thinking about installing the printer on the server so that it could be shared with the workstations. But how does this work? Can I just plug eth1 into the school network and access both LANs? Thanks for any insight, Chris

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  • Music but no voices on headphones

    - by TheEmeritus
    I have a laptop with Windows 7 and I have headphones for a couple of months, and only recently they started to play only the music, while the voices are there, but just very faint. I tried to connect them to another computer (PC, windows XP) and they worked fine, which made me think the problem isn't with the headphones but with the laptop. I've searched online and found a few solutions, none of the seemed to work. Such as: plugging in and out my jack until you can hear better, checking the headphones on other computers. Other relevant info: The headphones come with a mic if I right click the sound icon - sound devices. Then I dont see any 'headphones', not even if I tell it to show disabled devices. All I see is a 'speakers' icon, yet it's there even if the headphones are disconnected, and is always active. So if anyone has any idea I'd appreciate it :) Thanks!

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  • Wall jacks to patch panel?

    - by rj454me
    OK, I'm by no means a seasoned networking pro and I had no say so in the design of our current server room which is in dire need of an extreme makeover. Basically, in our server room we have 12 wall plates with 4 RJ-45 ports on each - 48 total RJ-45 ports. From these 48 ports is a spaghetti bowl of network cables feeding our servers located in a rack - there is no patch panel currently, just straight from the wall jack to each server. What I was wondering is, is it feasible to mount a 48 port patch panel in our server rack and feed into this patch panel from the wall jacks (of course nicely routing this cable through some new cable trays)? We really don't have the funds to mount the patch panel and have it fed directly from the switches in the telcom closet which is several hundred feet away. Current: Switch (Telcom Closet) - Wall Jacks - Servers Proposed: Switch (Telcom Closet) - Wall Jacks - Patch Panel - Servers

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