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• When machine is turned on, only the fan runs

  - by Gopal

  Hi, I have an issue slightly similar to this one posted here, http://superuser.com/questions/127016/troubleshooting-monitor-never-turns-on-system-fans-running-dvd-rom-does-not-op My configuration is as follows: EPOX 9NPA+ Ultra motherboard AMD Athlon 64 CPU Corsair 2 x 1GB PC3200 DDR RAM 1 DVD RW drive and 1 CD ROM Drive SATA 250 GB Hard drive 400W Power supply EVGA 256MB graphics card I have had this configuration for about four years. Last month, I started having issues in starting the machine. It wouldn't start when I press the ON button in the front of the case. So I used to pull out the power cord and plug it back in and then switch on in the front, and it used to work fine. And then one fine day, when I plugged in the power cord at the back, even without switching on the power-on button at the front, I saw that the fan at the back was running. So I opened the system. Then I could see that all the fans inside were running. I replaced the power supply. No luck there. Then I replaced the CMOS battery. Again nothing improved. Even when I removed all the cards and memory, I still get one short beep. That's it. Any idea how to proceed on this? Anything else could be checked? I want to confirm if this is a motherboard failure, before proceeding to replace it.

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• Is the APC BR700G UPS (or similar) compatible with Active PFC power supplies?

  - by David Zaslavsky

  I'm looking at getting a UPS for my home computer. So far the APC BR700G looks very promising, except for one thing: one of the reviews on Newegg says that this UPS does not work with a power supply with Active PFC. Pros: Unit looks great, built well, very heavy, was excited to use it. Cons: Didn't research enough - many newer power supplies like my corsair 750w (and yes dells and other mainstreamers sell them too) that I bought last year have a feature called active pfc (power factor corrected). The signal for this backup battery doesn't fully support that feature and can cause issues. You can find an article on APCs site if you search their user forums for PFC. And the power supply in my computer is, in fact, an Active PFC PSU. I've already found one answer on this site claiming that it's not an issue, that "most quality supplies these days have PFC and work just fine with a UPS." That disagrees with the review on Newegg. Can someone explain this discrepancy? Also, what is it exactly about a UPS that makes it incompatible with an Active PFC PSU? (if anything) Is there some way to tell based on the technical specifications, or do I just have to hunt for reviews online to avoid wasting my money? While any input would be appreciated, I would prefer to get an answer from someone with actual experience with similar UPS's and Active PFC power supplies, who can tell me whether it works or not.

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• The USB mouse sticks in Windows 7 after automatic attempt to fix the boot

  - by chelder

  Avast Antivirus asked me to delete a probable virus and to restart to perform a checking. I had to stop the checking at the middle of the procedure as I needed the computer. It was imposible to turn off the computer pushing the power button (as it entered in suspension mode, no matter how long I kept pushed the power button). I removed the battery as the only way to restart the computer. Windows 7 said that there is a problem to iniziate Windows. Windows 7 tried to fix the problem without success. Windows 7 started after that though. Everything is OK but the USB mouse. The USB mouse sticks and freezes each couple of seconds more or less. The tactile mouse (PS2) works well. I googled for solutions but the posible solutions didn't work for me. What happened? How could I fix it without formatting and reinstalling everything? UPDATE: this is what I did: Change the mouse from one usb port to another Test another mouse Set the number of cores of the CPU manually with msconfig Power management: not disable usb ports Check hard disk errors

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• How do I repair my Logitech Anywhere MX?

  - by Stefano Palazzo

  My Anywhere Mouse has got mushy mouse button syndrome. That is, the left mouse button feels a little bit soft, and it easily double clicks, let's go when I drag something. Before I repair it at home, rather than bringing it to the store (I kind of need it, it's the only one I have), I'd like to know exactly what I'm doing. It'd be too bad if I tried to repair it, voided the warranty and didn't succeed. I'm guessing there are screws to open it under the rubber pads. And I suppose I can take those off without breaking them, and put them back on without bending them. How is this mouse held together, and what's the safest way to open it? Once I have it open, will I be able to fix the problem? What's causing the mushy mouse button? Here's what I know so far: It might be the switch itself that's broken, in which case I shouldn't open it (I can't get a replacement, voiding the warranty to "have a look" seems pointless) If there are screws underneath the rubber pads, they're only on the 'front', the back two thirds of the mouse are all battery cover: There's nothing I can see under the batteries either. In the mouse I had before this one, there were sort of springy things connecting the actual button with the switch soldered to the board. They were just lying inside of a bit of plastic, and I could swap the left and right ones easily. If repairing it is more difficult, transferring the problem to the right mouse button would be a very good start.

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• Why does Outlook 2007 lose connection to Exchange when Windows 7 64-bit turns off display?

  - by Greg R.

  The problem: When Windows 7 puts the display to sleep, Outlook 2007 and also Microsoft Office Communicator 2005 lose the connection to the Exchange server. When I unlock the computer, Outlook is logged out of Exchange and prompts me for credentials (although usually I have to restart Outlook to get it to reconnect). The network connection is still active, e.g. other applications don't lose their connection to the network or Internet when Windows 7 puts the display to sleep. I'm using a Dell E5400 notebook running Windows 7 Enterprise 64-bit with Outlook 2007 connecting to a corporate Exchange server (not sure if it's Exchange 2007 or 2010). The Dell is typically docked and connected via DVI (through the dock) to two Dell monitors. The Power Options in Windows 7 are set as follows: Turn Off The Display: 15 minutes Put The Computer To Sleep: never Those are the "Plugged In" settings but the problematic behavior is the same when running on battery. When Windows 7 turns off the display, it automatically locks the computer. E.g., I have to re-enter my credentials to access the machine. This is per corporate policy. The equivalent set up on my previous Dell notebook running Windows XP SP3 did not result in this problem with Outlook 2007 or Office Communicator 2005 connecting the very same exchange server. The problem began when I switched to the new Dell E5400 with Windows 7.

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• How does one skip "Windows did not shut down successfully" in Win7-64?

  - by XenonofArcticus

  Migrating an app from an expensive and unreliable dedicated embedded x86 box running WinXP-embedded to COTS hardware (Dell E6410 laptop) running normal Win7-64. At this time, it's not feasible to deploy using Windows 7 embedded. The problem is, that the system is still sort of "embedded". The power could shut off at virtually any time without prior warning. We've stripped the OS down and removed the battery capability so that it will power down as desired. The app never writes to the disk, so it's not like we're going to corrupt anything terribly. The system is essentially idle after our app is up and running (with the exception of some computation, graphics, and TCP/IP and serial communications) so the OS enters a pretty stable state rather quickly. After a power-loss however, it rightly complains that Windows did not shut down successfully and presents the user with the Windows Error Recovery text screen. If left alone, it does eventually move on booting just fine, but we'd like to skip that step if possible. WinXP-embedded is designed to do this automatically, so I know it's possible. I've looked at the Kernel Switches but I didn't see anything documented for "Skip Windows Error Recovery". I've also read extensively on the startup process: http://homepage.ntlworld.com./jonathan.deboynepollard/FGA/windows-nt-6-boot-process.html I know I can disable the auto chkdsk in the registry, but that's not the same thing either. So, how do I streamline the boot process to not hassle the user about a situation that will be the regular normal situation?

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• Why does my PC successfully boot only when unplugged for more than a few minutes?

  - by philg

  I have an HP Pavilion Elite desktop computer, model HPE-490t. I like it because it didn’t cost too much, boots itself from an SSD, came with 16 GB of RAM, and has 6 CPU cores for editing video and camera RAW images. It has one behavioral quirk that I cannot explain, however. The recent power interruptions here in the Northeast got the machine into a state where it could not be restarted. It would power up for a second or two, shut down, and then power up again, never being able to get to the point of showing anything on the monitor. I unplugged it for about 10 seconds and plugged it back in. Same behavior (fails to boot). I unplugged it and walked away for an hour, then plugged it back in and it worked perfectly! I think something similar happened after installing a second hard disk drive into this machine. So the question is why does the computer behave differently depending on how long it has been unplugged? Where is energy stored that affects the machine’s ability to boot? Capacitors in the power supply? Battery on the motherboard (there is one for the clock, but that wouldn’t be exhausted by being unplugged for an hour, I don’t think)?

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• Laptop shuts down randomly without warning

  - by Robert P.

  My Asus Zenbook UX32V turns off randomly when I'm working on it. This happens both when the computer is recently turned on (5 minutes), and after being on for several days. I'm not running any heavy software The laptop is not heating The fan is not working on the maximum capacity (it's not heating) It happens when the laptop is lying still on the table It is no warning, it simply goes black It happens both when charging and on battery My guess is that it suddenly lose power somehow. What puzzles me is that I can flip the laptop upside down, sideways, shake it, etc. without it shutting off. This makes me think it's not something that's loose causing occasional short-circuits. I realize that the laptop probably doesn't like flipping and shaking, but it was the best way I could troubleshoot. I rarely turn the computer off, only have it in hibernate or sleep mode (most often hibernate). I've never experienced that the laptop is off when I wake it up from sleep mode. I've had the problem for a few months and it happens 2-8 times a week. Specs: Asus Zenbook UX32V Windows 8.1 (it happened in Windows 8.0 too) Intel i5-3317U CPU @ 1.70GHz The laptop is approx 1.5 years, but it has a small dent on one of the sides that probably voids the warranty. The dent has been there since week one and I don't think it's related to the problems I'm having now. Does anyone have a clue what might cause this, and how it might be fixed? I've read all other questions (some of which are listed below) that seem related to my issue, but none report the same behavior as I'm experiencing. Most report heavy games, heating etc. Asus N53J Laptop randomly shuts down Laptop is randomly shutting off Computer shuts down without warning My laptop acer aspire 5720 suddenly turn off randomly Computer randomly shutting down Windows 8.1 randomly shuts self down ASUS K55VM Laptop unexpectedly shuts down

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• How to display escaped characters in tmux status bar

  - by walrus

  i am running tmux from a tty on an embedded linux device. (NOT a terminal emulator) because the screen is rather small, i want to add some "icons" to the tmux status bar. to achieve this, i have simply created a font with the appropriate glyphs for things like battery, or wifi. i can load the font, and display the characters with calls that use an escape to the line drawing characters like so: echo -e "\xe\234\xf" \xe escapes me into line drawing character mode, \234 is my created character, and \xf returns me to normal character mode so my terminal doesnt start getting goofy. this works perfectly if i enter the command at the terminal whether tmux is started or not. the issue arises if i then try to use it in my ~/.tmux.conf file for the status bar. i currently have a line like this: set -g status-right "#(echo -e "\xe\234\xf") #(/script/to/output/powerlevel) this simply outputs \xe\234\xf powerlevel this goes the same if i try printf over echo. this is the output i would expect to get on the terminal if i made the call without passing -e to echo, or without enclosing the statement with quotes. i then decided to wrap the calls to the echo or printf in a shell script. again, the script works when called from the terminal, but not in tmux's status bar. now i get the unprintable character "?" instead of my icon, like this: ? powerlevel this is what i would expect if i did not use the line drawing escapes previously mentioned above, or if i tried to copy and paste the character as text using tmux. in addition, the calling of these character scripts screws up the rest of my status-right, as the clock has about 6 digits for minutes when it is called (though it correctly only updates two of them). how can i make tmux respect the escape characters? any help or insight is greatly appreciated.

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• Windows Server 2008 - inexplicable system time jumps/glitches/inaccuracies

  - by Nathan Ridley

  I'm running a production web server on Windows Server 2008. On this server I have a database which logs certain user actions, but every now and again I inexplicably get database entries which, according to the record ID and the records immediately before and after, have the wrong time logged against them (7 days+ too old). For example, record ID 1001 will be for Dec 7, 11pm, 1002 will be for Dec 7, 11:01pm, then 1003 will be for Nov 28, 1:38am, then the next will be back on track again. The problem seems to occur in random records (or 2-3 records in a row) and crops up once every few days. This is absolutely baffling because there is only one place in the application that assigns this date/time value and it's simply the system UTC date. I have been synchronizing the system time to time-a.nist.gov (which I read in another article was a bit more reliable than the default time.windows.com) and it seems to occasionally get out of time anyway (3-4 minutes), but I'm speculating that occasionally the time server has a temporary glitch where the date changes to a drastically wrong value for a short space of time, then changes back. Either that, or the motherboard clock battery is screwed and the reason the time momentarily changes is that the motherboard loses the time and then the time synchronization puts it back again. Could either of my suspicions be right? Should I turn off time synchronization for a production server? Assigning dates to an event log where the dates are up to 2 weeks prior to the actual date is a severe problem I can't have when the next version of my application is released. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

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• What USB key would you recommend using for running a Windows 7 VM off of?

  - by Darryl Hein

  Because I can't find a good PHP editor for OSX, I develop in Windows with PhpEd. At the moment, my development time is split between a desktop and a laptop. To partially solve the problem of having 2 different environments, I have installed a virtual machine (through Virtual Box) and put the hard drive file on an external hard drive. At the moment, I've been connecting it through Firewire 800. I have 2 problems with this setup: (1) The hard drive is fairly large so to carry the laptop and hard drive I pretty much require a backpack. (2) The hard drive requires quite a bit of power and therefore reduces the battery life (by about 40%). My thought is to move the VM hard drive onto a USB key. I realize it will be slower, but as I'm just using it for PHP development, there isn't a lot of disk activity in the VM. The only really intense time is boot up, otherwise, it just about sits idle. Do anyone have any suggestions on a USB key to use for the VM? It would need to a minimum of 32GB.

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• Windows 7 loses correct time zone upon reboot

  - by Android Eve

  I have a standard PC running Windows 7 Ultimate (64-bit). For some reason, it refuses to keep the correct time zone (the BIOS battery is OK) when restarted. Note (1): The Time zone is correct. The "Internet Time" tab also shows "this computer is set to automatically synchronize with 'time.windows.com'. When I click the 'Change settings...' button, the 'Synchronize with an Internet time server' checkbox is checked. Still, upon reboot, the time is skewed by 6 hours... and doesn't correct itself even after waiting hours for this "automatically synchronize" to occur. Note (2): The BIOS time is set to local (i.e. not UTC). When I restart Windows 7 without booting to the other OS installed in dual-boot config (Ubuntu Linux), it seems to correctly remember the time. This may explain immediate time upon reboot, but it doesn't explain why Windows 7 won't automatically 'Synchronize with an Internet time server' even after an hour. Why is this happening and how do I correct this?

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• Move OS from RAID5 array to RAID 1 arrays

  - by Antoine

  I want to give a last boost to my old ProLiant ML350 G5 server which just needs to be reliable for a few more year only ! With a defined budget of about 1500$ (I do not have more), i plan to replace the CPU (+ adding a second one), the battery cache of my raid controller (E200i), double the RAM, and change all hard drives. I have 7 HDD (SAS 10krpm, 72Gb) + 1 spare in RAID5, and my system is all FULL (no empty tray, full disks). in my current RAID5 array, I have 2 partitions: - 1 OS partition, 20Gb - 1 data partition, 350 Gb I plan to replace these 8 disks with : - 2 x 300Gb SAS 15krpm in RAID 1 (= 1 partition for OS) - 2 x 2Tb SATA 7.2krpm in RAID 1 (= 1 partition for DATA) My biggest constraint is that I have only 01 day to upgrade my server. Therefore, I'm looking for cloning all my files (OS + data partition) to my new arrays, i.e : - the OS partition shall be cloned to the RAID1 "2x300Gb array" - the data partition shall be cloned to the RAID1 "2x2Tb array" My second problem is that I need to physically remove all the old hard drives before inserting the new ones. I'm running Windows Server 2003 R2, and even if MS support will expire soon, I cannot buy a new licence and spent time in configuration. Obviously, with 1500$, I cannot also buy a new server that I could start configuring from now ! Thought about ASR (NTBackup), but I have no floppy drive (and do not really want to invest in one !) Thought about a clonezilla clone, and read this interesting link : Windows Server 2003 - move C: partition to a new SAS disk , but i'm not so confident in using Clonezilla with RAID5. What should be the best option to quickly and easily (if possible!) "copy/paste" my OS (so no need to reinstall and reconfigure all) and DATA / programs / services, etc... ? Thanks for your comments

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• Looking for a small, portable, port-mirroring ethernet switch.

  - by user37244

  I recently had a mac go haywire, taking half a minute or more to get www.google.com loaded. Getting its owner to give up the machine for repair was like pulling teeth - they were insisting that it must be something to do with the network, since so much had changed with the local configuration at about the same time their box went haywire. I eventually set up a port mirror to a box that I could remote to so I could show that the mac was only irregularly getting packets onto the network. Demonstrating this faced an additional challenge: the latency of the remote desktop software I was using meant that I had to point to timestamps instead of just the moment the packet flashed up on the screen as my evidence. This particular user was the reason this was so challenging this time around, but I would like to have a box that I can cart from desk to desk to use wireshark on my laptop at any station where I need it. 3com, cisco, netgear, etc. (ad nauseum), all make switches that can be configured for port mirroring, but in my case, the smaller, the better. For the sake of my sanity, I'll probably end up running it off a battery anyway. If my laptop had two ethernet ports, this would be easy. So, whaddya recommand for a device that requires 0 configuration at each powerup (though I'm fine with poking at it for a while to set it up initially.) Small, light, and cheap enough to get it past purchasing? Thanks,

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• What are the IR codes the new Apple Remote (alu) uses?

  - by index

  I would like to clone the new Apple Remote (infrared, second generation, aluminium) just for fun with a microcontroller. Most codes of the previous model can be found in the LIRC remote control database (all except the key combinations menu + <<,play, which unpair, change ID, pair the remote. I also don't know which bit encodes the battery status. It uses a modified 32 bit NEC protocol (reverse LIRC codes bytewise). But the new Apple remote uses two additional codes for the play and the new select button. I don't have a mac, so I can't brute force test codes either ;-) So if someone possesses such a remote and the ability of recording those two new buttons and three combinations I'd really appreciate it. If you can't run LIRC (or it gets confused by the new codes) and you don't have an oscilloscope or logic analyser, maybe you could hook up a photo diode to your sound input and record the codes with Audacity? Just hit record, hit each button and combo a few times, hit stop, upload the uncompressed WAV file to a sharing site, done. That'd be great!

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• Compaq Motherboard gives "CPU Fan Error"

  - by John

  I have a motherboard for a HP business desktop dx5150 PC. The model written on the board is "MS-7050" and it is for an AMD socket 939 processor. I got everything installed in it, and when I turned it on, it showed a message stating that there was a "CPU Fan Error" (or some similar language) and then turned off. It never stays on for more than about 30 seconds, probably less. The fan had previously been working great, but I replaced it anyway with a brand new Cooler Master fan. This did not work. I then reset the BIOS with the jumpers on the board, no dice. I replaced the CMOS battery. Same error. I then replaced the entire computer power supply with a brand new Antec, same error. The fan header is keyed, and has room for 3 pins. The CPU fan is designed the same way, so its not that I'm missing a temperature sensor or anything. Can anyone give some suggestions? Especially maybe some secret keystrokes to bypass this error?

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• Switching from Onboard intel to Nvidia Dedicated GPU

  - by Anarkie

  How can I switch from Intel onboard grpahics to Nvidia Dedicated GPU? When I go to windows screen resolution I see intel. I cant change it. I go to Device Manager, I see both Adapters are there and Nvidia is known.I disabled intel, I didnt see any option to set one as primary so I disabled intel, black screen!Reboot and re-enable intel. I right click on the desktop, choose "Nvidia Control Panel" and on 3D options I chose the desired game I want to play, High performance Nvidia, but it didnt switch when I started the game. Then I made preferred GPU in the global settings High performance Nvidia for everything it still didnt change.I understand to save the battery etc. there is a switch option between these two but I dont see this switch when it is necessary, I cant also switch manually?Is there a manual switch FN key?I looked but couldnt find. Why I want to do this? 1) Better game peformance. 2) I want to play an old game from 2002(Diablo 2 LOD), when I start the game there are black bars on the sides, so screen becomes just smaller which I dislike!I heard this is intel's specification to center the display.But instead I would like to scale or expand it to fit widescreen(fullscreen).Which should be possible with Nvidia. My Notebook Specs: Fujitsu Lifebook AH531, Win7 , 64 bit, i5, intel HD graphics onboard, Nvidia GT 525. I didnt install Nvidia later, it was always installed and ready from the moment I turned on the computer first time. How I determined that the cards werent switched when I am playing the game: with the windows key I exited from the game, then looked at screen resolutions menu, still saw intel, also the game was still with black bars.I know intel GPU should enough for Diablo 2 but I am interested in this answer for further games, I dont always play Diablo, what if I install an up to date game for example?Then Intel will not be sufficient.I would like to learn the switch option.

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• toshiba a200 laptop hangs/freezes when plugged in

  - by tapan

  The subject says it all. It is the exact same problem as described here. I had asked a similar question before here. My system specs etc, everything is here. My problem is just that I cannot afford to get it fixed right now. I just need for the laptop to be kind of usable for 2-3 more months. It worked perfectly for 3 months or so in ubuntu recovery mode. Now it hangs/freezes every hour. I spend 8 hours a day on an average on my laptop. So i just want it to last at least that long. If the laptop is not plugged in in recovery mode / regular ubuntu mode, it freezes in 5 mins and the screen becomes all weird. With my windows 7 OS, it works perfectly on battery but hangs instantly as soon as it is plugged in. Also now, a high cpu usage doesn't help anymore. Any strategy or suggestions i could employ to extend the duration for which it doesn't freeze ?

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• Cisco 851 (IOS) router: FastEthernet 4 (WAN) got the shutdown flag.

  - by cjavapro

  At a customer location there was a Cisco 851 router (which uses IOS). The PCs on location were all of a sudden unable to connect. We came on site and found that FastEthernet 4 (the WAN port) was "administratively down". We ran these commands to resolve it config t interface fa4 no shutdown exit exit write Now the mystery is how the shutdown flag got there in the first place? The router was on battery backup... but during the outage it was power cycled by the customer. It is possible that there was a short outage by the ISP and that the power cycle caused the shutdown flag to come up. There may have been a hack or an attack pattern that caused the shutdown flag to come up. There may have been a hack or an attack pattern that the router to become unavailable and then caused the shutdown flag to be added on startup. Question: Does anybody have any clues? or at least remember that they had a shutdown flag come up on their WAN port also?

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• Computer hangs at BIOS screen. Cannot enter setup.

  - by d2jxp

  I have an HP Pavilion a6500f (it's a year out of warranty) and it's hanging on the blue HP BIOS screen. If I mash F10 while it's starting up, it will say "Entering Setup..." but I will see no results. It will hang there and not do anything. If I actually wait until I can see the screen and then hit F10, there's no response at all and the computer will sit at the BIOS menu. I've dusted and cleaned it out, reseated the memory, switched the RAM slots, and reset the CMOS battery using the reset jumper. I'm out of ideas. I'm pretty sure it's not a hard drive issue, since my problem is at the BIOS. After this post, I'll disconnect the hard drive and try to just boot without it. Anyone have any other ideas? Edit: Okay, so I tried disconnecting the hard drive and now I can get back into the BIOS. I reconnected it and I'm locked out again. So the problem is my hard drive.. I guess I should delete this post unless someone has any ideas as to what's wrong with the drive?

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• Computer hangs at BIOS screen. Cannot enter setup

  - by d2jxp

  I have an HP Pavilion a6500f (it's a year out of warranty) and it's hanging on the blue HP BIOS screen. If I mash F10 while it's starting up, it will say "Entering Setup..." but I will see no results. It will hang there and not do anything. If I actually wait until I can see the screen and then hit F10, there's no response at all and the computer will sit at the BIOS menu. I've dusted and cleaned it out, reseated the memory, switched the RAM slots, and reset the CMOS battery using the reset jumper. I'm out of ideas. I'm pretty sure it's not a hard drive issue, since my problem is at the BIOS. After this post, I'll disconnect the hard drive and try to just boot without it. Anyone have any other ideas? Edit: Okay, so I tried disconnecting the hard drive and now I can get back into the BIOS. I reconnected it and I'm locked out again. So the problem is my hard drive.. I guess I should delete this post unless someone has any ideas as to what's wrong with the drive?

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• How does one skip “Windows did not shut down successfully” in Win7-64?

  - by XenonofArcticus

  Migrating an app from an expensive and unreliable dedicated embedded x86 box running WinXP-embedded to COTS hardware (Dell E6410 laptop) running normal Win7-64. At this time, it's not feasible to deploy using Windows 7 embedded. The problem is, that the system is still sort of "embedded". The power could shut off at virtually any time without prior warning. We've stripped the OS down and removed the battery capability so that it will power down as desired. The app never writes to the disk, so it's not like we're going to corrupt anything terribly. The system is essentially idle after our app is up and running (with the exception of some computation, graphics, and TCP/IP and serial communications) so the OS enters a pretty stable state rather quickly. After a power-loss however, it rightly complains that Windows did not shut down successfully and presents the user with the Windows Error Recovery text screen. If left alone, it does eventually move on booting just fine, but we'd like to skip that step if possible. WinXP-embedded is designed to do this automatically, so I know it's possible. I've looked at the Kernel Switches but I didn't see anything documented for "Skip Windows Error Recovery". I've also read extensively on the startup process: http://homepage.ntlworld.com./jonathan.deboynepollard/FGA/windows-nt-6-boot-process.html I know I can disable the auto chkdsk in the registry, but that's not the same thing either. So, how do I streamline the boot process to not hassle the user about a situation that will be the regular normal situation?

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• Dell laptop keyboard doesn't work

  - by Tam

  I'm trying to fix my in-laws laptop, it's a Dell Studio 1745 that's running Windows 7 64 bit. The problem is that most of the keys on the keyboard do not work. The function keys work and the caps lock and numpad keys work, but no other keys do. If I hit the F2 key enough times when starting up, I can get to the BIOS, but after that even the function keys stop working. If I let it go all the way to the Windows login screen, I can see that the caps lock and num lock work - little images on screen actually appear, but they don't toggle the state of the key, i.e.,capslock is always off, numlock is always off. Using the fn+function combo works, so changing the brightness, etc. works fine. I'm stumped. I've tried disconnecting power and battery and leaving it for an hour or so before starting up but that hasn't helped either. Also - this might be a red herring - the touchpad is failing as well, the MS Device Manager says that it's failing with status 10, "unable to start device"

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• Disable internal display on Macbook Pro without closed lid mode?

  - by jslaker

  I have an early 2007 Macbook Pro running 10.5 that I've recently set up on a KVM with my primary desktop system. The problem I've run into is that I have a 20" 1680x1050 LCD, and OS X only provides options to mirror at the resolution of the built-in display or to span. Since the built-in display runs at 1440x900, this leads to running my LCD at non-native res and a fuzzy picture. There isn't any option that I can find to simply disable the built-in display entirely and run the external LCD at its native resolution. I am aware of closed lid mode, but the MBP was disassembled while in storage for about 6 months (took it apart to pull the HDD) and the cable to the touchpad, which controls the sleep sensor was damaged, meaning closed lid mode won't work. I've looked into replacing the cable, but the cheapest I've been able to find it is $75-100, and I'm trying not to invest any more money into this computer as it also has a completely dead battery and a few other minor problems. I've found the app SwitchResX which appears to allow you to do what I need, but it has a lot of functionality I don't need and a ~$20 registration charge attached to it. An odd set of circumstances, I'm aware, but I was hoping somebody might know of an OS hack that would let me just disable the internal display and be done with it. :)

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• Netbook thinks it is a desktop

  - by Narcolapser

  Question: Are, and if so what, there packages for download that I can get netbook to understand it is not a desktop and that it is a netbook. Info: I'm running an Acer Aspire One with ubuntu desktop 9.10. I tried Ubuntu Netbook Remix first but it has graphics issues with the aspire one. So I changed to Ubuntu Desktop. It was the only distro (after debian, centOS, Fedora, and Knoppix all failed me) that I managed to get working. The only thing is that it is having issues doing things that a netbook/laptop should be doing. most notably is that it will run it's battery dead if I close the screen and throw it into my back pack. It seems to just stay fully on and runs it's self to death. also it will lock up some times if I close the screen and come back to it 10 or 20 minutes later. It also won't retain volume settings when I reboot, as well as screen brightness. and just a couple of other things that I can't quite put my finger on, but just seem amiss. like I said, Essentially my netbook thinks it is a desktop, how can I fix this? ~N

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