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  • Is jQuery modular? How to trim it down?

    - by usr
    Uncompressed, jQuery is 160KB in size. I did not see a way to exclude seldomly used parts of it like with jQuery UI. How can I reduce the (compressed and minified) file size of jQuery? I am quite concerned because dial-up lines and slow machines/browsers are very common among users of my site.

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  • UI Design - design pattern for city/country drop down? (ASP.NET MVC)

    - by JK
    What is the best way to do a city/country dropdown pair in ASP.NET MVC? I see lots of places with country above city, but that's unnatural: in real life we write city/country. I've used city, then country, but the problem is that the user then has to go backwards after changing the country. The other problem is what do you do about cities/countries not in your list? If city/country are both drop downs, then the user cant type their own city if it is missing. But if you have a dropdown and a textbox, that makes it unwieldy (you end up with 4 controls to enter 2 pieces of data). Are there any examples websites where the city/country dropdown pair are done in a very useable and clear manner?

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  • How do you protect yourself from runaway memory consumption bringing down the PC?

    - by romkyns
    Every now and again I find myself doing something moderately dumb that results in my program allocating all the memory it can get and then some. This kind of thing used to cause the program to die fairly quickly with an "out of memory" error, but these days Windows will go out of its way to give this non-existent memory to the application, and in fact is apparently prepared to commit suicide doing so. Not literally of course, but it will starve itself of usable physical RAM so badly that even running the task manager will require half an hour of swapping (after all the runaway application is still allocating more and more memory all the time). This doesn't happen too often, but when it does it's disastrous. I usually have to reset my machine, causing data loss from time to time and generally a lot of inconvenience. Do you have any practical advice on making the consequences of such a mistake less dire? Perhaps some registry tweak to limit the max amount of virtual memory an app is allowed to allocate? Or some CLR flag that will limit this only for the current application? (It's usually in .NET that I do this to myself.) ("Don't run out of RAM" and "Buy more RAM" are no use - the former I have no control over, and the latter I've already done.)

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  • How do I make a DIV stay at the top of the screen no matter ow far down the page my visitor scrolls?

    - by user1289863
    What I'm saying is, I have some extremely long pages on my website, which can make it annoying I've my visitors need to scroll to the top of the page to be able to navigate to another page. I'm not quite sure what I would call this but any Google search that contains the words 'DIV' and 'float' come up with completely unrelated results... What I'm looking to do is create a DIV that stays at the top of the Screen (not to be confused with the page) so that if the user is at the bottom of the page, they can still see the navigation bar just floating at the top of the screen. What I can think of is to position the DIV relative to the position of the screen but I don't know how to code this. I'm happy to use JavaScript (preferably in the form of jQuery), but if you know how to do this using CSS, I would favour your response. This might help: I know a little bit of jQuery and JavaScript and I know a good deal of CSS and HTML. Thanks in advance.

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  • How to Run Low-Cost Minecraft on a Raspberry Pi for Block Building on the Cheap

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    We’ve shown you how to run your own blocktastic personal Minecraft server on a Windows/OSX box, but what if you crave something lighter weight, more energy efficient, and always ready for your friends? Read on as we turn a tiny Raspberry Pi machine into a low-cost Minecraft server you can leave on 24/7 for around a penny a day. Why Do I Want to Do This? There’s two aspects to this tutorial, running your own Minecraft server and specifically running that Minecraft server on a Raspberry Pi. Why would you want to run your own Minecraft server? It’s a really great way to extend and build upon the Minecraft play experience. You can leave the server running when you’re not playing so friends and family can join and continue building your world. You can mess around with game variables and introduce mods in a way that isn’t possible when you’re playing the stand-alone game. It also gives you the kind of control over your multiplayer experience that using public servers doesn’t, without incurring the cost of hosting a private server on a remote host. While running a Minecraft server on its own is appealing enough to a dedicated Minecraft fan, running it on the Raspberry Pi is even more appealing. The tiny little Pi uses so little resources that you can leave your Minecraft server running 24/7 for a couple bucks a year. Aside from the initial cost outlay of the Pi, an SD card, and a little bit of time setting it up, you’ll have an always-on Minecraft server at a monthly cost of around one gumball. What Do I Need? For this tutorial you’ll need a mix of hardware and software tools; aside from the actual Raspberry Pi and SD card, everything is free. 1 Raspberry Pi (preferably a 512MB model) 1 4GB+ SD card This tutorial assumes that you have already familiarized yourself with the Raspberry Pi and have installed a copy of the Debian-derivative Raspbian on the device. If you have not got your Pi up and running yet, don’t worry! Check out our guide, The HTG Guide to Getting Started with Raspberry Pi, to get up to speed. Optimizing Raspbian for the Minecraft Server Unlike other builds we’ve shared where you can layer multiple projects over one another (e.g. the Pi is more than powerful enough to serve as a weather/email indicator and a Google Cloud Print server at the same time) running a Minecraft server is a pretty intense operation for the little Pi and we’d strongly recommend dedicating the entire Pi to the process. Minecraft seems like a simple game, with all its blocky-ness and what not, but it’s actually a pretty complex game beneath the simple skin and required a lot of processing power. As such, we’re going to tweak the configuration file and other settings to optimize Rasbian for the job. The first thing you’ll need to do is dig into the Raspi-Config application to make a few minor changes. If you’re installing Raspbian fresh, wait for the last step (which is the Raspi-Config), if you already installed it, head to the terminal and type in “sudo raspi-config” to launch it again. One of the first and most important things we need to attend to is cranking up the overclock setting. We need all the power we can get to make our Minecraft experience enjoyable. In Raspi-Config, select option number 7 “Overclock”. Be prepared for some stern warnings about overclocking, but rest easy knowing that overclocking is directly supported by the Raspberry Pi foundation and has been included in the configuration options since late 2012. Once you’re in the actual selection screen, select “Turbo 1000MhHz”. Again, you’ll be warned that the degree of overclocking you’ve selected carries risks (specifically, potential corruption of the SD card, but no risk of actual hardware damage). Click OK and wait for the device to reset. Next, make sure you’re set to boot to the command prompt, not the desktop. Select number 3 “Enable Boot to Desktop/Scratch”  and make sure “Console Text console” is selected. Back at the Raspi-Config menu, select number 8 “Advanced Options’. There are two critical changes we need to make in here and one option change. First, the critical changes. Select A3 “Memory Split”: Change the amount of memory available to the GPU to 16MB (down from the default 64MB). Our Minecraft server is going to ruin in a GUI-less environment; there’s no reason to allocate any more than the bare minimum to the GPU. After selecting the GPU memory, you’ll be returned to the main menu. Select “Advanced Options” again and then select A4 “SSH”. Within the sub-menu, enable SSH. There is very little reason to keep this Pi connected to a monitor and keyboard, by enabling SSH we can remotely access the machine from anywhere on the network. Finally (and optionally) return again to the “Advanced Options” menu and select A2 “Hostname”. Here you can change your hostname from “raspberrypi” to a more fitting Minecraft name. We opted for the highly creative hostname “minecraft”, but feel free to spice it up a bit with whatever you feel like: creepertown, minecraft4life, or miner-box are all great minecraft server names. That’s it for the Raspbian configuration tab down to the bottom of the main screen and select “Finish” to reboot. After rebooting you can now SSH into your terminal, or continue working from the keyboard hooked up to your Pi (we strongly recommend switching over to SSH as it allows you to easily cut and paste the commands). If you’ve never used SSH before, check out how to use PuTTY with your Pi here. Installing Java on the Pi The Minecraft server runs on Java, so the first thing we need to do on our freshly configured Pi is install it. Log into your Pi via SSH and then, at the command prompt, enter the following command to make a directory for the installation: sudo mkdir /java/ Now we need to download the newest version of Java. At the time of this publication the newest release is the OCT 2013 update and the link/filename we use will reflect that. Please check for a more current version of the Linux ARMv6/7 Java release on the Java download page and update the link/filename accordingly when following our instructions. At the command prompt, enter the following command: sudo wget --no-check-certificate http://www.java.net/download/jdk8/archive/b111/binaries/jdk-8-ea-b111-linux-arm-vfp-hflt-09_oct_2013.tar.gz Once the download has finished successfully, enter the following command: sudo tar zxvf jdk-8-ea-b111-linux-arm-vfp-hflt-09_oct_2013.tar.gz -C /opt/ Fun fact: the /opt/ directory name scheme is a remnant of early Unix design wherein the /opt/ directory was for “optional” software installed after the main operating system; it was the /Program Files/ of the Unix world. After the file has finished extracting, enter: sudo /opt/jdk1.8.0/bin/java -version This command will return the version number of your new Java installation like so: java version "1.8.0-ea" Java(TM) SE Runtime Environment (build 1.8.0-ea-b111) Java HotSpot(TM) Client VM (build 25.0-b53, mixed mode) If you don’t see the above printout (or a variation thereof if you’re using a newer version of Java), try to extract the archive again. If you do see the readout, enter the following command to tidy up after yourself: sudo rm jdk-8-ea-b111-linux-arm-vfp-hflt-09_oct_2013.tar.gz At this point Java is installed and we’re ready to move onto installing our Minecraft server! Installing and Configuring the Minecraft Server Now that we have a foundation for our Minecraft server, it’s time to install the part that matter. We’ll be using SpigotMC a lightweight and stable Minecraft server build that works wonderfully on the Pi. First, grab a copy of the the code with the following command: sudo wget http://ci.md-5.net/job/Spigot/lastSuccessfulBuild/artifact/Spigot-Server/target/spigot.jar This link should remain stable over time, as it points directly to the most current stable release of Spigot, but if you have any issues you can always reference the SpigotMC download page here. After the download finishes successfully, enter the following command: sudo /opt/jdk1.8.0/bin/java -Xms256M -Xmx496M -jar /home/pi/spigot.jar nogui Note: if you’re running the command on a 256MB Pi change the 256 and 496 in the above command to 128 and 256, respectively. Your server will launch and a flurry of on-screen activity will follow. Be prepared to wait around 3-6 minutes or so for the process of setting up the server and generating the map to finish. Future startups will take much less time, around 20-30 seconds. Note: If at any point during the configuration or play process things get really weird (e.g. your new Minecraft server freaks out and starts spawning you in the Nether and killing you instantly), use the “stop” command at the command prompt to gracefully shutdown the server and let you restart and troubleshoot it. After the process has finished, head over to the computer you normally play Minecraft on, fire it up, and click on Multiplayer. You should see your server: If your world doesn’t popup immediately during the network scan, hit the Add button and manually enter the address of your Pi. Once you connect to the server, you’ll see the status change in the server status window: According to the server, we’re in game. According to the actual Minecraft app, we’re also in game but it’s the middle of the night in survival mode: Boo! Spawning in the dead of night, weaponless and without shelter is no way to start things. No worries though, we need to do some more configuration; no time to sit around and get shot at by skeletons. Besides, if you try and play it without some configuration tweaks first, you’ll likely find it quite unstable. We’re just here to confirm the server is up, running, and accepting incoming connections. Once we’ve confirmed the server is running and connectable (albeit not very playable yet), it’s time to shut down the server. Via the server console, enter the command “stop” to shut everything down. When you’re returned to the command prompt, enter the following command: sudo nano server.properties When the configuration file opens up, make the following changes (or just cut and paste our config file minus the first two lines with the name and date stamp): #Minecraft server properties #Thu Oct 17 22:53:51 UTC 2013 generator-settings= #Default is true, toggle to false allow-nether=false level-name=world enable-query=false allow-flight=false server-port=25565 level-type=DEFAULT enable-rcon=false force-gamemode=false level-seed= server-ip= max-build-height=256 spawn-npcs=true white-list=false spawn-animals=true texture-pack= snooper-enabled=true hardcore=false online-mode=true pvp=true difficulty=1 player-idle-timeout=0 gamemode=0 #Default 20; you only need to lower this if you're running #a public server and worried about loads. max-players=20 spawn-monsters=true #Default is 10, 3-5 ideal for Pi view-distance=5 generate-structures=true spawn-protection=16 motd=A Minecraft Server In the server status window, seen through your SSH connection to the pi, enter the following command to give yourself operator status on your Minecraft server (so that you can use more powerful commands in game, without always returning to the server status window). op [your minecraft nickname] At this point things are looking better but we still have a little tweaking to do before the server is really enjoyable. To that end, let’s install some plugins. The first plugin, and the one you should install above all others, is NoSpawnChunks. To install the plugin, first visit the NoSpawnChunks webpage and grab the download link for the most current version. As of this writing the current release is v0.3. Back at the command prompt (the command prompt of your Pi, not the server console–if your server is still active shut it down) enter the following commands: cd /home/pi/plugins sudo wget http://dev.bukkit.org/media/files/586/974/NoSpawnChunks.jar Next, visit the ClearLag plugin page, and grab the latest link (as of this tutorial, it’s v2.6.0). Enter the following at the command prompt: sudo wget http://dev.bukkit.org/media/files/743/213/Clearlag.jar Because the files aren’t compressed in a .ZIP or similar container, that’s all there is to it: the plugins are parked in the plugin directory. (Remember this for future plugin downloads, the file needs to be whateverplugin.jar, so if it’s compressed you need to uncompress it in the plugin directory.) Resart the server: sudo /opt/jdk1.8.0/bin/java -Xms256M -Xmx496M -jar /home/pi/spigot.jar nogui Be prepared for a slightly longer startup time (closer to the 3-6 minutes and much longer than the 30 seconds you just experienced) as the plugins affect the world map and need a minute to massage everything. After the spawn process finishes, type the following at the server console: plugins This lists all the plugins currently active on the server. You should see something like this: If the plugins aren’t loaded, you may need to stop and restart the server. After confirming your plugins are loaded, go ahead and join the game. You should notice significantly snappier play. In addition, you’ll get occasional messages from the plugins indicating they are active, as seen below: At this point Java is installed, the server is installed, and we’ve tweaked our settings for for the Pi.  It’s time to start building with friends!     

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  • Rebooting yes, Shutdown no

    - by Chiotis Leonidas
    Hello everyone and thanks in advance. I am new in Ubuntu and have the 12.04 version dual boot with Windows XP. I have the following problem. The laptop can reboot using the reboot option from the menu but it cannot shut down. It starts shutting down, the dots appear but then it freezes and does not turn off. Sometimes it shuts down normally (usually just after an update) but then it loses that capability again. Some strange things, I noticed that when the dots freeze, the USB mouse loses power, BUT the usb-powered cooling pad continues to work The only Fn shortcuts that work all the time are the Volume up, down and mute, BUT sometimes when the other Fn combinations (screen-off etc) work the computer shuts down normally I searched a lot on my own, please help.

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  • Can Questions be Reopened After They've Been Closed by Some Self Appointed Gestapo Moderators? [migrated]

    - by GenericJam
    This is obviously begging to be shut down right away and have all my privileges revoked or whatever but why do some people feel they have the right to shut down legitimate discussion? Who decides what is a "real" question or topic of interest? If you don't think it's valid, just click somewhere else but it is really getting to me on this site and StackOverflow how many really useful questions are shut down because people are asking opinions not textbook facts. Questions like this one are genuinely useful. Don't shut them down. You are making this site less useful for everyone else. Do people get their kicks by just wandering around the site closing questions? It seems many of the same names appear on the "closed down" box. Just go to a different page, don't ruin everyone else's education the way they choose it.

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  • Friends Don’t Let Friends Play with Portal Guns [Video]

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Many Portal fan films are sci-fi stories in their own right; this humorous video is simply focused on what happens when three guys get their hands on a portal gun. Jason Craft, the video’s director, explains: My interpretation of what a real POrtal gun would be like if one existed. Based on the video game, POrtal. I tried to match the game as close as possible. This was the most challenging project I have ever undertaken, consisting of 3D tracking, seamless camera cuts and 3D camera projection. ENJOY! We certainly wish our goofing around with friends videos came off this polished. For those of you wondering how he got such an awesome Portal Gun prop, it’s all CGI (you can check out his model here). [via Boing Boing] HTG Explains: What Is Windows RT & What Does It Mean To Me? HTG Explains: How Windows 8′s Secure Boot Feature Works & What It Means for Linux Hack Your Kindle for Easy Font Customization

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  • Populate InfoPath Combo Box

    - by fwm
    I am trying to populate a drop down and found this page, which provides part of the solution: http://www.bizsupportonline.net/infopath2007/programmatically-fill-populate-drop-down-list-box-infopath-2007.htm I got this to work, but if players.xml was changed, the drop down list didn't reflect it. I had to rename the file and add the new file as my secondary data source to see the change. For my purposes, the xml file that is used to populate the drop down box would need to be created anew. Each time the form is loaded, I programatically create a new xml file, but the drop down doesn't pick up the new file, even though I have named it as the secondary data source. It seems that once you set a file to be your secondary data source, it takes a snapshot of that file at the time the source was added as a secondary data source and if you change the file, you must rename and add it as your secondary source. How do I populate a drop down box from an XML file such that if the XML file changes, the contents of the drop down change accordingly?

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  • win 7: copy all files from a complex folder structure to one folder

    - by Jason
    I'd have a complex folder structure like: h:\folder1\folder2\folder3 h:\folder1\folder2\a h:\folder1\b h:\folder1\folder3 h:\folder1\folder4\d Only with probably 100's of folders and a depth of around 4 (I'm guessing) Anyway I want to run a command that will move all the files from every sub folder into the top level folder. so something like h:\folder1\*\*.* to h:\folder1 Is there a tool I can use to do this? does win 7 have a command that will do this? Thanks Jason

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  • Port forwarding using ASDM 6.0

    - by Jason
    Hey guys, I'm not too savvy with ASDM and it has been quite some time since I have done anything IOS so forgive me. I am trying to forward port 3389 from 'any' on 'outside' (1.1.1.1) to an internal server (10.10.10.10). Can anybody give me the steps to do this using ASDM or IOS. Thanks, -Jason

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  • Vista stuck at "Shutting down..." screen. Any way to get verbose logging?

    - by CapBBeard
    Hi all, My home machine has been running fine for about 3 years, no problems at all. Within the last couple of weeks it's had real trouble trying to shut down. It'll get so far and then just sit there at the "Shutting down..." screen for hours. I've left it overnight, I've tried in safe mode, all to no avail. These days, I just wait for the disk activity to finish up and then hold the power button to turn it off. Feels dirty as, especially because there's a RAID involved! The hardware itself is in pretty good shape and of decent spec; Core 2 Quad, 4GB RAM, 1TB RAID 1+0, so it's not quite like a 7 year old PC coming to end of life! In the last month, hardware hasn't changed except for a new monitor. Admittedly I haven't tried unplugging the monitor but I've never heard of that preventing a shutdown. I might give it a whirl later I guess, as a last resort. I've uninstalled old apps, done updates, checked the event log, looked in device manager, uninstalled all non-present devices, disabled various non-critical devices (imaging, audio etc), unplugged peripherals, stopped non-essential services, unplugged the network, disabled the network adapter entirely, ran chkdsk, verified my RAID, the list goes on. But not a single lead. I'm pretty stumped. It could be hardware, but I have no other evidence to suggest so; when the PC is running, it runs fine. Temperatures are good, gaming is smooth as always, disk performance is fine. Event log even makes it look like the shutdown was completed (gets to the point where the event log service stops). In fact, the PC doesn't appear to realise that I cut the power to it. So my question is, does anyone know if there is a way I can get some verbose output (or a log) from shutdown to give me some idea of what is causing the issue? I'm guessing it's stuck unloading some app/driver but it would be good to get some specifics! Unless anyone has any other ideas? I suspect a reinstall would resolve the issue, however I'm looking to get a new PC built in the next month or so, and the reinstall is going to be quite a big job so I'd rather just wait until then if it comes to that. Would still be nice to get this sorted in the mean time though. Cheers!

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  • Can the .htaccess file slow down a website to a crawl? If so, are there better ways to solve these problems with different rewrite rules and such?

    - by Parimal
    here is my htaccess file...... RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/billing/FAQ_billing\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/billing/getintouch\.html$ RewriteRule ^patients/billing/(.*)\.html$ $1.php [L,NC] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/a\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/b\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/c\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/d\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/e\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/f\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/g\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/h\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/i\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/j\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/k\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/l\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/m\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/n\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/o\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/p\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/q\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/r\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/s\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/t\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/u\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/v\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/w\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/x\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/y\.html$ [OR] RewriteCond %{REQUEST_URI} ^/patients/findadoctor/z\.html$ RewriteRule ^patients/findadoctor/(.*)\.html$ findadoctor.php?id=$1 [L,NC] like that there is lots of rules around 250 line please help me...

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  • OpenFilesView Displays All Open and Locked Files to Help Resolve In-Use Errors

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Windows: You go to move a file and Windows throws up an “In Use” error. OpenFilesView shows you what application or system process is locking up the files you’re trying to move. Sometimes the culprit is obvious; if you go to move your media folder and you’ve got your media player open watching South Park then shutting down the media player is the obvious solution. Other times the culprit is less obvious; sometimes Windows processes and less-than-obvious applications are accessing your files in ways that aren’t apparent. The screenshot below showcases the “In Use” error: This is where OpenFilesView comes into play. Fire up the application to see a list of all active files on your system. The master list is a bit overwhelming (on our test system there were over 1200 open files) but you use the find command to drill down to specific file or folder names. Once you’ve found the locked file you can close the file handle, kill the process, or bring the process to the front (so you can examine the program, if possible, before terminating it). It’s much more efficient than rebooting in an attempt to shake the In-Use error. OpenFilesView is freeware and works on Windows XP through Windows 7. HTG Explains: Do You Really Need to Defrag Your PC? Use Amazon’s Barcode Scanner to Easily Buy Anything from Your Phone How To Migrate Windows 7 to a Solid State Drive

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  • The dreaded Brightness issue (Fn keys + Max brightness)

    - by Adam
    I'm trying to get some control over the brightness of my Samsung QX411 (Integrated Intel and discrete Nvidia, though Ubuntu doesn't see the latter yet, I'll play around with Bumblebee later) Using the FN+up/down lowers the screen brightness from max to one peg down or back up. If I try to bring the brightness down any more, it just flickers and stays the same. I can lower the brightness in Settings, but that's delicate and gets reverted to max if I open up the brightness settings again, or log out. The closest I got was adding acpi_backlight=vendor to a line in /etc/default/grub, (source) I could consequently lower the brightness a couple of pegs down to the minimum with FN+down, but then it's as if the problem got inversed, and I'd get stuck in the bottom tier, I could only increase the brightness by one peg and back down. Rebooting would revert to max brightness. acpi_osi=, acpi_osi=Linux, acpi_osi=vendor, acpi_osi='!Windows 2012', acpi_backlight=Linux, acpi_backlight='!Windows 2012' don't do anything for me. I've also tried adding echo 2000 > /sys/class/backlight/intel_backlight/brightness to /etc/rc.local, where my max value from cat /sys/class/backlight/intel_backlight/brightness is 4648, which didn't do anything. (same result with echo 2000 > /sys/class/backlight/acpi_video0/brightness) source Samsung tools also didn't help in this regard. I've spent hours on this, it's getting quite frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • Windows 7 complaint

    - by Chris Williams
    Let me start by saying that I love Windows 7. I think it's the best OS that Microsoft has put out in ages, possibly ever. However, I do have one little complaint. Actually it's not that little, it's become a real pain in the butt for me. I'm talking about Forced Updates. Yes, I know it's always been a problem and that Windows would occasionally force a reboot while you were away, in order to install some important update. That's not quite what I'm referring to. I mean the new "feature" where you don't have the choice to skip updates when shutting down. This isn't a big deal to those of you with desktop machines, but for those of us with laptops, it is rapidly becoming an unforgivable pain in the ass. Let me see if I can make myself a little clearer... If I am shutting down my LAPTOP, 99% of the time it's because I need to get up and go. Not wait around for FORCED UPDATES!! I travel a lot, and there are few things more annoying than shutting down to head to the airport, or shutting down so I can board my flight, or shutting down because we're about to land, etc... and having to wait 5-10 minutes while Win 7 does it's thing. It's damn inconvenient. There has to be a way you can detect if I'm on a laptop and give me the option to postpone updates, or skip them or (here's a thought) run them on startup instead of on shutdown. I'm usually not in a hurry when my machine is booting up, but if I'm powering down it's because I'm ready to GO! Please fix this. Windows 7 rocks in almost every other way I can think of.

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  • Why Are Minimized Programs Often Slow to Open Again?

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    It seems particularly counterintuitive: you minimize an application because you plan on returning to it later and wish to skip shutting the application down and restarting it later, but sometimes maximizing it takes even longer than launching it fresh. What gives? Today’s Question & Answer session comes to us courtesy of SuperUser—a subdivision of Stack Exchange, a community-driven grouping of Q&A web sites. The Question SuperUser reader Bart wants to know why he’s not saving any time with application minimization: I’m working in Photoshop CS6 and multiple browsers a lot. I’m not using them all at once, so sometimes some applications are minimized to taskbar for hours or days. The problem is, when I try to maximize them from the taskbar – it sometimes takes longer than starting them! Especially Photoshop feels really weird for many seconds after finally showing up, it’s slow, unresponsive and even sometimes totally freezes for minute or two. It’s not a hardware problem as it’s been like that since always on all on my PCs. Would I also notice it after upgrading my HDD to SDD and adding RAM (my main PC holds 4 GB currently)? Could guys with powerful pcs / macs tell me – does it also happen to you? I guess OSes somehow “focus” on active software and move all the resources away from the ones that run, but are not used. Is it possible to somehow set RAM / CPU / HDD priorities or something, for let’s say, Photoshop, so it won’t slow down after long period of inactivity? So what is the deal? Why does he find himself waiting to maximize a minimized app? The Answer SuperUser contributor Allquixotic explains why: Summary The immediate problem is that the programs that you have minimized are being paged out to the “page file” on your hard disk. This symptom can be improved by installing a Solid State Disk (SSD), adding more RAM to your system, reducing the number of programs you have open, or upgrading to a newer system architecture (for instance, Ivy Bridge or Haswell). Out of these options, adding more RAM is generally the most effective solution. Explanation The default behavior of Windows is to give active applications priority over inactive applications for having a spot in RAM. When there’s significant memory pressure (meaning the system doesn’t have a lot of free RAM if it were to let every program have all the RAM it wants), it starts putting minimized programs into the page file, which means it writes out their contents from RAM to disk, and then makes that area of RAM free. That free RAM helps programs you’re actively using — say, your web browser — run faster, because if they need to claim a new segment of RAM (like when you open a new tab), they can do so. This “free” RAM is also used as page cache, which means that when active programs attempt to read data on your hard disk, that data might be cached in RAM, which prevents your hard disk from being accessed to get that data. By using the majority of your RAM for page cache, and swapping out unused programs to disk, Windows is trying to improve responsiveness of the program(s) you are actively using, by making RAM available to them, and caching the files they access in RAM instead of the hard disk. The downside of this behavior is that minimized programs can take a while to have their contents copied from the page file, on disk, back into RAM. The time increases the larger the program’s footprint in memory. This is why you experience that delay when maximizing Photoshop. RAM is many times faster than a hard disk (depending on the specific hardware, it can be up to several orders of magnitude). An SSD is considerably faster than a hard disk, but it is still slower than RAM by orders of magnitude. Having your page file on an SSD will help, but it will also wear out the SSD more quickly than usual if your page file is heavily utilized due to RAM pressure. Remedies Here is an explanation of the available remedies, and their general effectiveness: Installing more RAM: This is the recommended path. If your system does not support more RAM than you already have installed, you will need to upgrade more of your system: possibly your motherboard, CPU, chassis, power supply, etc. depending on how old it is. If it’s a laptop, chances are you’ll have to buy an entire new laptop that supports more installed RAM. When you install more RAM, you reduce memory pressure, which reduces use of the page file, which is a good thing all around. You also make available more RAM for page cache, which will make all programs that access the hard disk run faster. As of Q4 2013, my personal recommendation is that you have at least 8 GB of RAM for a desktop or laptop whose purpose is anything more complex than web browsing and email. That means photo editing, video editing/viewing, playing computer games, audio editing or recording, programming / development, etc. all should have at least 8 GB of RAM, if not more. Run fewer programs at a time: This will only work if the programs you are running do not use a lot of memory on their own. Unfortunately, Adobe Creative Suite products such as Photoshop CS6 are known for using an enormous amount of memory. This also limits your multitasking ability. It’s a temporary, free remedy, but it can be an inconvenience to close down your web browser or Word every time you start Photoshop, for instance. This also wouldn’t stop Photoshop from being swapped when minimizing it, so it really isn’t a very effective solution. It only helps in some specific situations. Install an SSD: If your page file is on an SSD, the SSD’s improved speed compared to a hard disk will result in generally improved performance when the page file has to be read from or written to. Be aware that SSDs are not designed to withstand a very frequent and constant random stream of writes; they can only be written over a limited number of times before they start to break down. Heavy use of a page file is not a particularly good workload for an SSD. You should install an SSD in combination with a large amount of RAM if you want maximum performance while preserving the longevity of the SSD. Use a newer system architecture: Depending on the age of your system, you may be using an out of date system architecture. The “system architecture” is generally defined as the “generation” (think generations like children, parents, grandparents, etc.) of the motherboard and CPU. Newer generations generally support faster I/O (input/output), better memory bandwidth, lower latency, and less contention over shared resources, instead providing dedicated links between components. For example, starting with the “Nehalem” generation (around 2009), the Front-Side Bus (FSB) was eliminated, which removed a common bottleneck, because almost all system components had to share the same FSB for transmitting data. This was replaced with a “point to point” architecture, meaning that each component gets its own dedicated “lane” to the CPU, which continues to be improved every few years with new generations. You will generally see a more significant improvement in overall system performance depending on the “gap” between your computer’s architecture and the latest one available. For example, a Pentium 4 architecture from 2004 is going to see a much more significant improvement upgrading to “Haswell” (the latest as of Q4 2013) than a “Sandy Bridge” architecture from ~2010. Links Related questions: How to reduce disk thrashing (paging)? Windows Swap (Page File): Enable or Disable? Also, just in case you’re considering it, you really shouldn’t disable the page file, as this will only make matters worse; see here. And, in case you needed extra convincing to leave the Windows Page File alone, see here and here. Have something to add to the explanation? Sound off in the the comments. Want to read more answers from other tech-savvy Stack Exchange users? Check out the full discussion thread here.     

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  • Sliding "pull-down" navigation - what do I use? How do I implement? jQuery?

    - by Josh Carey
    I'm new to Javascript and jQuery, but I'm learning. Here is what I'd like to accomplish: I have a row of navigation "pull-down" tabs that I'd like to animate. Some sliders will have text links to sub-pages and some will not. The bottom portion of the tab should be clickable to go to the main page. Then the sub-page, text links should also be clickable. Here is a graphic example that should make sense of what I'd like to do: http://lionheart.net/downloads/nav-example.png Mouse over, would slide it down. Mouse out, after a second, should auto-slide up. Is this possible with jQuery or something else? Thanks so much for any help you can give me!

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  • HTG Reviews the CODE Keyboard: Old School Construction Meets Modern Amenities

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    There’s nothing quite as satisfying as the smooth and crisp action of a well built keyboard. If you’re tired of  mushy keys and cheap feeling keyboards, a well-constructed mechanical keyboard is a welcome respite from the $10 keyboard that came with your computer. Read on as we put the CODE mechanical keyboard through the paces. What is the CODE Keyboard? The CODE keyboard is a collaboration between manufacturer WASD Keyboards and Jeff Atwood of Coding Horror (the guy behind the Stack Exchange network and Discourse forum software). Atwood’s focus was incorporating the best of traditional mechanical keyboards and the best of modern keyboard usability improvements. In his own words: The world is awash in terrible, crappy, no name how-cheap-can-we-make-it keyboards. There are a few dozen better mechanical keyboard options out there. I’ve owned and used at least six different expensive mechanical keyboards, but I wasn’t satisfied with any of them, either: they didn’t have backlighting, were ugly, had terrible design, or were missing basic functions like media keys. That’s why I originally contacted Weyman Kwong of WASD Keyboards way back in early 2012. I told him that the state of keyboards was unacceptable to me as a geek, and I proposed a partnership wherein I was willing to work with him to do whatever it takes to produce a truly great mechanical keyboard. Even the ardent skeptic who questions whether Atwood has indeed created a truly great mechanical keyboard certainly can’t argue with the position he starts from: there are so many agonizingly crappy keyboards out there. Even worse, in our opinion, is that unless you’re a typist of a certain vintage there’s a good chance you’ve never actually typed on a really nice keyboard. Those that didn’t start using computers until the mid-to-late 1990s most likely have always typed on modern mushy-key keyboards and never known the joy of typing on a really responsive and crisp mechanical keyboard. Is our preference for and love of mechanical keyboards shining through here? Good. We’re not even going to try and hide it. So where does the CODE keyboard stack up in pantheon of keyboards? Read on as we walk you through the simple setup and our experience using the CODE. Setting Up the CODE Keyboard Although the setup of the CODE keyboard is essentially plug and play, there are two distinct setup steps that you likely haven’t had to perform on a previous keyboard. Both highlight the degree of care put into the keyboard and the amount of customization available. Inside the box you’ll find the keyboard, a micro USB cable, a USB-to-PS2 adapter, and a tool which you may be unfamiliar with: a key puller. We’ll return to the key puller in a moment. Unlike the majority of keyboards on the market, the cord isn’t permanently affixed to the keyboard. What does this mean for you? Aside from the obvious need to plug it in yourself, it makes it dead simple to repair your own keyboard cord if it gets attacked by a pet, mangled in a mechanism on your desk, or otherwise damaged. It also makes it easy to take advantage of the cable routing channels in on the underside of the keyboard to  route your cable exactly where you want it. While we’re staring at the underside of the keyboard, check out those beefy rubber feet. By peripherals standards they’re huge (and there is six instead of the usual four). Once you plunk the keyboard down where you want it, it might as well be glued down the rubber feet work so well. After you’ve secured the cable and adjusted it to your liking, there is one more task  before plug the keyboard into the computer. On the bottom left-hand side of the keyboard, you’ll find a small recess in the plastic with some dip switches inside: The dip switches are there to switch hardware functions for various operating systems, keyboard layouts, and to enable/disable function keys. By toggling the dip switches you can change the keyboard from QWERTY mode to Dvorak mode and Colemak mode, the two most popular alternative keyboard configurations. You can also use the switches to enable Mac-functionality (for Command/Option keys). One of our favorite little toggles is the SW3 dip switch: you can disable the Caps Lock key; goodbye accidentally pressing Caps when you mean to press Shift. You can review the entire dip switch configuration chart here. The quick-start for Windows users is simple: double check that all the switches are in the off position (as seen in the photo above) and then simply toggle SW6 on to enable the media and backlighting function keys (this turns the menu key on the keyboard into a function key as typically found on laptop keyboards). After adjusting the dip switches to your liking, plug the keyboard into an open USB port on your computer (or into your PS/2 port using the included adapter). Design, Layout, and Backlighting The CODE keyboard comes in two flavors, a traditional 87-key layout (no number pad) and a traditional 104-key layout (number pad on the right hand side). We identify the layout as traditional because, despite some modern trapping and sneaky shortcuts, the actual form factor of the keyboard from the shape of the keys to the spacing and position is as classic as it comes. You won’t have to learn a new keyboard layout and spend weeks conditioning yourself to a smaller than normal backspace key or a PgUp/PgDn pair in an unconventional location. Just because the keyboard is very conventional in layout, however, doesn’t mean you’ll be missing modern amenities like media-control keys. The following additional functions are hidden in the F11, F12, Pause button, and the 2×6 grid formed by the Insert and Delete rows: keyboard illumination brightness, keyboard illumination on/off, mute, and then the typical play/pause, forward/backward, stop, and volume +/- in Insert and Delete rows, respectively. While we weren’t sure what we’d think of the function-key system at first (especially after retiring a Microsoft Sidewinder keyboard with a huge and easily accessible volume knob on it), it took less than a day for us to adapt to using the Fn key, located next to the right Ctrl key, to adjust our media playback on the fly. Keyboard backlighting is a largely hit-or-miss undertaking but the CODE keyboard nails it. Not only does it have pleasant and easily adjustable through-the-keys lighting but the key switches the keys themselves are attached to are mounted to a steel plate with white paint. Enough of the light reflects off the interior cavity of the keys and then diffuses across the white plate to provide nice even illumination in between the keys. Highlighting the steel plate beneath the keys brings us to the actual construction of the keyboard. It’s rock solid. The 87-key model, the one we tested, is 2.0 pounds. The 104-key is nearly a half pound heavier at 2.42 pounds. Between the steel plate, the extra-thick PCB board beneath the steel plate, and the thick ABS plastic housing, the keyboard has very solid feel to it. Combine that heft with the previously mentioned thick rubber feet and you have a tank-like keyboard that won’t budge a millimeter during normal use. Examining The Keys This is the section of the review the hardcore typists and keyboard ninjas have been waiting for. We’ve looked at the layout of the keyboard, we’ve looked at the general construction of it, but what about the actual keys? There are a wide variety of keyboard construction techniques but the vast majority of modern keyboards use a rubber-dome construction. The key is floated in a plastic frame over a rubber membrane that has a little rubber dome for each key. The press of the physical key compresses the rubber dome downwards and a little bit of conductive material on the inside of the dome’s apex connects with the circuit board. Despite the near ubiquity of the design, many people dislike it. The principal complaint is that dome keyboards require a complete compression to register a keystroke; keyboard designers and enthusiasts refer to this as “bottoming out”. In other words, the register the “b” key, you need to completely press that key down. As such it slows you down and requires additional pressure and movement that, over the course of tens of thousands of keystrokes, adds up to a whole lot of wasted time and fatigue. The CODE keyboard features key switches manufactured by Cherry, a company that has manufactured key switches since the 1960s. Specifically the CODE features Cherry MX Clear switches. These switches feature the same classic design of the other Cherry switches (such as the MX Blue and Brown switch lineups) but they are significantly quieter (yes this is a mechanical keyboard, but no, your neighbors won’t think you’re firing off a machine gun) as they lack the audible click found in most Cherry switches. This isn’t to say that they keyboard doesn’t have a nice audible key press sound when the key is fully depressed, but that the key mechanism isn’t doesn’t create a loud click sound when triggered. One of the great features of the Cherry MX clear is a tactile “bump” that indicates the key has been compressed enough to register the stroke. For touch typists the very subtle tactile feedback is a great indicator that you can move on to the next stroke and provides a welcome speed boost. Even if you’re not trying to break any word-per-minute records, that little bump when pressing the key is satisfying. The Cherry key switches, in addition to providing a much more pleasant typing experience, are also significantly more durable than dome-style key switch. Rubber dome switch membrane keyboards are typically rated for 5-10 million contacts whereas the Cherry mechanical switches are rated for 50 million contacts. You’d have to write the next War and Peace  and follow that up with A Tale of Two Cities: Zombie Edition, and then turn around and transcribe them both into a dozen different languages to even begin putting a tiny dent in the lifecycle of this keyboard. So what do the switches look like under the classicly styled keys? You can take a look yourself with the included key puller. Slide the loop between the keys and then gently beneath the key you wish to remove: Wiggle the key puller gently back and forth while exerting a gentle upward pressure to pop the key off; You can repeat the process for every key, if you ever find yourself needing to extract piles of cat hair, Cheeto dust, or other foreign objects from your keyboard. There it is, the naked switch, the source of that wonderful crisp action with the tactile bump on each keystroke. The last feature worthy of a mention is the N-key rollover functionality of the keyboard. This is a feature you simply won’t find on non-mechanical keyboards and even gaming keyboards typically only have any sort of key roller on the high-frequency keys like WASD. So what is N-key rollover and why do you care? On a typical mass-produced rubber-dome keyboard you cannot simultaneously press more than two keys as the third one doesn’t register. PS/2 keyboards allow for unlimited rollover (in other words you can’t out type the keyboard as all of your keystrokes, no matter how fast, will register); if you use the CODE keyboard with the PS/2 adapter you gain this ability. If you don’t use the PS/2 adapter and use the native USB, you still get 6-key rollover (and the CTRL, ALT, and SHIFT don’t count towards the 6) so realistically you still won’t be able to out type the computer as even the more finger twisting keyboard combos and high speed typing will still fall well within the 6-key rollover. The rollover absolutely doesn’t matter if you’re a slow hunt-and-peck typist, but if you’ve read this far into a keyboard review there’s a good chance that you’re a serious typist and that kind of quality construction and high-number key rollover is a fantastic feature.  The Good, The Bad, and the Verdict We’ve put the CODE keyboard through the paces, we’ve played games with it, typed articles with it, left lengthy comments on Reddit, and otherwise used and abused it like we would any other keyboard. The Good: The construction is rock solid. In an emergency, we’re confident we could use the keyboard as a blunt weapon (and then resume using it later in the day with no ill effect on the keyboard). The Cherry switches are an absolute pleasure to type on; the Clear variety found in the CODE keyboard offer a really nice middle-ground between the gun-shot clack of a louder mechanical switch and the quietness of a lesser-quality dome keyboard without sacrificing quality. Touch typists will love the subtle tactile bump feedback. Dip switch system makes it very easy for users on different systems and with different keyboard layout needs to switch between operating system and keyboard layouts. If you’re investing a chunk of change in a keyboard it’s nice to know you can take it with you to a different operating system or “upgrade” it to a new layout if you decide to take up Dvorak-style typing. The backlighting is perfect. You can adjust it from a barely-visible glow to a blazing light-up-the-room brightness. Whatever your intesity preference, the white-coated steel backplate does a great job diffusing the light between the keys. You can easily remove the keys for cleaning (or to rearrange the letters to support a new keyboard layout). The weight of the unit combined with the extra thick rubber feet keep it planted exactly where you place it on the desk. The Bad: While you’re getting your money’s worth, the $150 price tag is a shock when compared to the $20-60 price tags you find on lower-end keyboards. People used to large dedicated media keys independent of the traditional key layout (such as the large buttons and volume controls found on many modern keyboards) might be off put by the Fn-key style media controls on the CODE. The Verdict: The keyboard is clearly and heavily influenced by the needs of serious typists. Whether you’re a programmer, transcriptionist, or just somebody that wants to leave the lengthiest article comments the Internet has ever seen, the CODE keyboard offers a rock solid typing experience. Yes, $150 isn’t pocket change, but the quality of the CODE keyboard is so high and the typing experience is so enjoyable, you’re easily getting ten times the value you’d get out of purchasing a lesser keyboard. Even compared to other mechanical keyboards on the market, like the Das Keyboard, you’re still getting more for your money as other mechanical keyboards don’t come with the lovely-to-type-on Cherry MX Clear switches, back lighting, and hardware-based operating system keyboard layout switching. If it’s in your budget to upgrade your keyboard (especially if you’ve been slogging along with a low-end rubber-dome keyboard) there’s no good reason to not pickup a CODE keyboard. Key animation courtesy of Geekhack.org user Lethal Squirrel.       

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  • Collision detection problem in XNA

    - by Fantasy
    I'm having two problems with my collision detection in XNA. There are two boxes, the red box represents a player and the blue box represents a wall. The first problem is when the player moves to the upper side or bottom side of the wall and collides with it, and then try to go to the left or right, the player will just jump in the opposite direction as seen in the video. However if I go to the right side or the left side of the wall and try to go up or down the player will smoothly go up or down without jumping. The second problem is that when I collide with the box and my key is still pressed down the blue box goes half way through red box and and goes back out and it keeps doing that until I stop pressing the keyboard. its not very clear on the video but the keeps going in and out really fast until I stop pressing the key. Here is a video example:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKLJsrPviYo and Here is my code Vector2 Position; Rectangle PlayerRectangle, BoxRectangle; float Speed = 0.25f; enum Direction { Up, Right, Down, Left }; Direction direction; protected override void Update(GameTime gameTime) { // Allows the game to exit if (GamePad.GetState(PlayerIndex.One).Buttons.Back == ButtonState.Pressed) this.Exit(); KeyboardState keyboardState = Keyboard.GetState(); if (keyboardState.IsKeyDown(Keys.Up)) { Position.Y -= (float)(Speed * gameTime.ElapsedGameTime.TotalMilliseconds); direction = Direction.Up; } if (keyboardState.IsKeyDown(Keys.Down)) { Position.Y += (float)(Speed * gameTime.ElapsedGameTime.TotalMilliseconds); direction = Direction.Down; } if (keyboardState.IsKeyDown(Keys.Right)) { Position.X += (float)(Speed * gameTime.ElapsedGameTime.TotalMilliseconds); direction = Direction.Right; } if (keyboardState.IsKeyDown(Keys.Left)) { Position.X -= (float)(Speed * gameTime.ElapsedGameTime.TotalMilliseconds); direction = Direction.Left; } if (PlayerRectangle.Intersects(BoxRectangle)) { if (direction == Direction.Right) Position.X = BoxRectangle.Left - PlayerRectangle.Width; else if (direction == Direction.Left) Position.X = BoxRectangle.Right; if (direction == Direction.Down) Position.Y = BoxRectangle.Top - PlayerRectangle.Height; else if (direction == Direction.Up) Position.Y = BoxRectangle.Bottom; } PlayerRectangle = new Rectangle((int)Position.X, (int)Position.Y, (int)32, (int)32); base.Update(gameTime); }

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  • Is it possible to host a website in the 'ether' of the Internet -- not on a server -- so that it cannot be taken down? [closed]

    - by Christopher Altman
    This is a theoretical problem I am curious about. Websites are hosted on servers. Servers can be taken offline. Is it possible to host a website in the 'ether' of the Internet -- not on a server -- so that it cannot be taken down? One example, is that the website is hosted on other websites, like a parasite. Another is that it is assembled through storing pieces on DNS machines, routers, etc., so that it get assembled on the fly. The purpose is that this website could live forever because no one person can remove it. The answers I am looking for are plausible idea/approaches on technically how this could be built.

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