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  • Getting old bluetooth headset out of standby on Windows 7

    - by luagh45
    I think this is the problem, and if not, I'm open to suggestions. I have an old Jabra BT200 that I used to use on my phone. When a phone call was coming in it would beep using its own noises (meaning the phone never rang inside the headset) and then I could push the 'answer/hang up' button and sound and mic would start working. I have now paired it with Windows 7, and it looks good. Under the playback menu I have 'Bluetooth Hands free Audio / Jabra BT200 (Mono Audio) / Ready', and under the recording menu I have 'Bluetooth Audio Input Device / Jabra BT200 (Mono Audio) / Ready'. However when I try to test the speakers Windows sends a sound, but I never hear it, and when I talk in the mic, Windows never hears me. If I right click either the Bluetooth mic or speakers there's an option to 'Connect', but it's grayed out and I cannot click it. As the final piece of knowledge I have, my headset blinks once every 3 seconds when it's in standby and I can't get that to change. If everything was working it should blink once every second at which point I think all of my problems would be fixed. Hence my issue: I can't seem to get my headset out of standby. On my headset I've tried sending it test noises and then pressing the 'Answer' button, but still nothing. The headset beeps when I press it, so it works, it just doesn't ever come out of standby. Is there maybe some way to trick my headset into thinking it's getting a phone call from my computer?

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  • How to fix display on external Samsung Syncmaster shifted to the right when connected to Macbook Pro?

    - by joe larson
    Is there something special I need to do to be able to use external LCD displays with my new MacBook Pro? Do I need extra software, or do I possibly need a different cable? I'm attempting to use an external display with my MBP. I've got a "Mini DisplayPort to VGA Female Adapter for Mac", plugged into the thunderbolt port on my MBP, which I understood should be compatible with thunderbolt. I've tried this with three different SyncMaster models: a B2330 (21.5"), a EX2220 (22"), and a third (also 22" ish) which I don't have the model # for -- but all are 1920x1080 resolution; plus an additional HP monitor of similar size and resolution. In all four cases, the MBP recognizes the screen and choses the correct resolution. However, the display is shifted over about 1 inch. This is true no matter if I change screen resolutions also. The controls on the monitor for horizontal position don't help. Also, sometimes (especially if I drag an app over into the second screen), the screen starts skipping left to right and having bands of fuzz. Additionally, the monitor will periodically blink off for a moment, trying to switch from Digital to Analog and back (the Syncmaster shows text on the screen to tell you it's trying to do this). Often when it comes back from one of these blank-outs, it will show OK (no skipping or fuzz) but still shifted right; then after a few seconds it will go wrong again skipping and fuzzy. This photo shows the worst of it. I've added red rectangles to show the physical edge of the screen, and a yellow rectangle to show the empty space on the left of the screen. (Sorry for the awful quality and lighting!) Also, it's worth noting I am on Mac OS X 10.6.7, and yes I have this update 1.4 installed.

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  • USB 3.0 hard disk not detected on a particular host controller?

    - by Alvin Wong
    I have a USB 3.0 hard disk which has always been working on my desktop with an XHCI. Now I just bought a notebook with an XHCI (something with Intel's Ivy Bridge setup). The first time I plug the hard disk in its 3.0 port it is detected and working. A few hours later I try to connect it again, but seems that the notebook just ignored it! The light on the hard disk didn't blink as usual (instead it is hold at on). I then tested it with my desktop again and it is working perfectly. It gets trickier when I plug it in the USB 2.0 port of that notebook it is detected and working perfectly (despite the slower speed). Then I try to plug in an USB 2.0 USB flash drive to that USB 3.0 port, and it is detected (of course as USB 2.0). So, there are two USB 3.0 ports on my notebook's XHCI. Both of them are not working with my hard disk but working perfectly fine with my USB 2.0 UFD. What's wrong with it? When I plug in the hard disk, device manager doesn't change. I've tried re-installing the driver for the XHCI, but it changes nothing. Had I broke the USB 3.0-specific pins of both USB 3.0 ports?

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  • NetInstall working on some systems, not working on others

    - by cduruk
    Hi, I'm having an issue where my NetInstall setup works on some computers and fails on others. I am not able to diagnose the issue. I created an image of a Mac Mini and then created a NetRestore image using the System Image Utility found on Snow Leopard Server. NetBoot and NFS all seem to be working fine on the server, which is an XServe. Then I select the NetInstall image from the Startup Disk on a machine. On some of the machines, the process works as expected. On some of them, I see the globe icon blink a few times and then the system boots to the regular hard drive. I have captured the tracedump and the system.log logs from the server on both cases where NetInstall seems to work and fail. Here is the link that has all the logs http://gist.github.com/232232 The gist of the failure seems to be from the lack of BSDP DISCOVER in the failure but I'm not able to identify why that exactly is happening. I'd really appreciate any help on this issue.

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  • Router startup problems

    - by gfmoz
    I have problems with my Tilgin Vood Router. As I try to start my router by turning the power on (captain obvious), it generally doesn't work the first 3-4 times. This is getting very annoying. Five minutes after turning the power on the router's signal LEDs don't blink in the way they should do in a connected state. I can connect to my routers web configuration interface through my PC connected to it via LAN though I can't access the internet. It usually takes the router five minutes to get to the point where it should be connected to the internet but as it doesn't work the first times. So I turn on my router 3-5 times, let him work 5 minutes and then suddenly, after turning the power off and on again it all works. I also have to restart my PC too in order for everything to work. How can I solve this problem? Just leave the router turned on all time? I prefer a daily IP switch, though. May the problem have something to do with my PC? There is another one connected to the router too and it doesn't work there either.

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  • Router startup problems

    - by gfmoz
    I have problems with my Tilgin Vood Router. As I try to start my router by turning the power on (captain obvious), it generally doesn't work the first 3-4 times. This is getting very annoying. Five minutes after turning the power on the router's signal LEDs don't blink in the way they should do in a connected state. I can connect to my routers web configuration interface through my PC connected to it via LAN though I can't access the internet. It usually takes the router five minutes to get to the point where it should be connected to the internet but as it doesn't work the first times. So I turn on my router 3-5 times, let him work 5 minutes and then suddenly, after turning the power off and on again it all works. I also have to restart my PC too in order for everything to work. How can I solve this problem? Just leave the router turned on all time? I prefer a daily IP switch, though. May the problem have something to do with my PC? There is another one connected to the router too and it doesn't work there either.

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  • Connect Chrome to TOR

    - by Jack M
    I'm having difficulty connecting Chrome to TOR. I started trying yesterday. I started Vidalia and the TOR Browser and then followed the advice at http://lifehacker.com/5614732/create-a-tor-button-in-chrome-for-on+demand-anonymous-browsing - downloading Proxy Switchy and setting it up as stated. This resulted in Error 130 (net::ERR_PROXY_CONNECTION_FAILED) (in Chrome, when I tried to load a webpage). So I looked into Vidalia's settings and noticed that it appeared to be using port 9051, so I set that instead of 8118 as everyone on the internet seems to be suggesting. Then I got a new error: Error 111 (net::ERR_TUNNEL_CONNECTION_FAILED). Digging a bit, I found that Tor should be set as a SOCKS proxy, not an HTTP proxy, so I unticked "use same settings for all protocols" in Proxy Switchy and just set localhost:9051 for SOCKS. That got me Error 7 (net::ERR_TIMED_OUT). And that's when I came here for help. I typed up the above question, but then at the last minute decided to do a bit more reading and found someone here suggested using some command line arguments via a Windows shortcut: "C:\snip\chrome.exe" --proxy-server=";socks=127.0.0.1:9051;sock4=127.0.0.1:9051;sock5=127.0.0.1:9051" --incognito check.torproject.org And that worked perfectly. Yesterday. Today it doesn't, so I'm having to post this question after all. check.torproject.org gives me a "no" with Chrome, but a "yes" with the default Tor Browser. I tried closing Chrome and restarting it (yes, with the correct shortcut) after Vidalia started, but still nothing. The port number hasn't changed or anything. What gives? EDIT: I realized I had a "non tor" instance of Chrome running and that possibly the was causing the command line args t be ignored when I started the new instance. Closed all instances of chrome and ran my Chrome Tor shortcut, and it did get rid of the "not using Tor" message -- because I got another Time Out error instead. Vidalia's bandwidth graph didn't even blink.

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  • hp DL380 G4 won't boot with disk plugged into front USB

    - by Kev
    We outgrew a few older external USB backup drives, and purchased WD My Passport 1 TB USB 3.0 drives to replace them. When they are plugged into the front of our G4, it will blink forever after the BIOS (which is current, BTW) and never boot, even though the USB disks are not "bootable" per se. Our old drives did not exhibit this behaviour (so I don't think it's this type of issue that I've read about other servers.) The old drives were USB 2.0, but this shouldn't make a difference, AFAICT--the specs say all of the G4's USB ports are the same, 2.0, anyway, so I'm not sure how one port would handle a USB 3.0 device better than another. If we plug the new drives in one of the back slots, it boots fine. What's the cause? My concern is that the front USB port, and possibly the motherboard, might be starting to die. (We are experiencing other strange issues with them, or were initially, like intermittent file permissions errors despite wide-open ACL on these local drives, but some serverfault users have me convinced they may be coincidental software/security related issues.)

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  • Router startup problem

    - by gfmoz
    I have problems with my Tilgin Vood Router. As I try to start my router by turning the power on (captain obvious), it generally doesn't work the first 3-4 times. This is getting very annoying. Five minutes after turning the power on the router's signal LEDs don't blink in the way they should do in a connected state. I can connect to my routers web configuration interface through my PC connected to it via LAN though I can't access the internet. It usually takes the router five minutes to get to the point where it should be connected to the internet but as it doesn't work the first times. So I turn on my router 3-5 times, let him work 5 minutes and then suddenly, after turning the pow*emphasized text*er off and on again it all works. The problem is regarding startup only, when I get it to work everything runs as smooth as a 1980-s text-based C++ game on a 3ghz machine. I also have to restart my PC too in order for everything to work. - How can I solve this problem? - Just leave the router turned on all time? I prefer a daily IP switch, though. - May the problem have something to do with my PC? There is another one connected to the router too and it doesn't work there either.

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  • Why is writing to my external hard drive slow, while benchmarks show fast writing?

    - by matix2267
    I have an iOmega eGo 320GB portable drive connected through USB2.0 to my laptop running Windows Vista. It's been working fine for quite some time until recently it became very slow when writing e.g. when copying ~300MB movie over to the drive at first it is extremely fast but it actually doesn't write it only puts in cache and then hangs on last 10-20MBs for about a minute. When copying larger files it's the same story: starts fast but then slows down to ~5MB/s (sometimes even slower down to 2MB/s). Strange thing is that I have always had caching disabled for this drive (it was disabled by default and I never bothered changing it). At first I thought that the disk is dying so I checked S.M.A.R.T. values and everything is fine there. I also run chkdsk and it seemed to fix the problem - it worked fast for a few minutes but then it slowed down again. I also tried plugging it into another USB port - no difference. Additionally I noticed that reading under certain circumstances is sometimes slower e.g. loading times for some games are ~10 times longer, whereas simple copying files from this drive to my internal HDD is fast. I ran a speed benchmark using CrystalDiskMark with a 5x100MB run and strangely got these results: read write (MB/s) Seq 33.05 28.25 512k 17.30 15.27 4k 0.267 0.372 4kQD32 0.510 0.260 This is different from what most other people have (I've found many threads about slow disk write while googling but all of them were slow on benchmarks too) which is why I decided to post this problem here. BTW most of the time when writing (or sometimes reading) the activity led is mostly idle (blinks a while and then stops for longer, sometimes has slower blinks ~1 sek, sometimes goes off for a few seconds - extremely long blink :) ) but when benchmarking, defragmenting or just reading (copying from this drive, installing apps from installers there, watching HD videos) it is blinking really fast (like it should) and there are no slowdowns. It shouldn't be driver issue unless stock Windows drivers have some issues I'm not aware of.

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  • USB question (how durable is it, how should I workaround this)

    - by Shiki
    The plot is quite simple. Got a Razer mouse. If I plug it in, it works. After a shutdown/hibernation, I have to replug it entirely at the back of the PC. (It works in my laptop even after severel shutdown, etc, so yes I guess it's my motherboard.. but it still got 2 years of warranty and it comes with quad SLI, its not an old motherboard at all. (MSI P7N SLI FI (bought it after a hungarian guy's recommendation)). So. I only could come up with one "solution". Get 3 USB cable (you know, USB-USB). If its possible the shortest ones (don't know if the responsibility/anything will worsen), AND replug only the middle+closest to the USB port junction, since those are replaceable. What do you think? Any other idea? (BIOS is updated, mouse driver ... doesn't really matter, the mouse won't even blink a bit after this happens. It lights up and goes totally dead.)

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  • HP tx2510us shuts down without warning, now won't boot, no BIOS codes, screen doesn't light

    - by Tim S
    Hey all, HP tx2150us worked great for a year and a half, rarely it would shut down instead of sleeping. It started running hot sometimes, I installed Win7, worked great, still running hot. Before Xmas, it gave me evidence of video errors - jagged lines, rows missing. That same night, it started rebooting, then it shut off and wouldn't boot. It gave me a BIOS code, I shut it off to look up the code online. When I turned it on again, it won't boot at all. The LEDs all light up, the fan, HD, and optical all spin up, but the screen never lights up and it doesn't try to boot, nor does it blink any BIOS codes. It just acts like it's sleeping, and won't wake up. I suspected heat problems, so I disassembled it, cleaned the crap out of the fan, and reassembled it, breaking the stereo mic connector. Oh well. When I reassembled it, it booted up into Win7 again, but kept shutting down for no discernible reason. After a dozen or so random reboots like that, it is now back to where it was - turns on but doesn't boot or give BIOS codes. The screen never lights, and everything spins up then idles. Any ideas? I really can't afford to buy a new one and I use(d) it to take ALL my notes, that's why I got a tablet in the first place.

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  • What's the best way to clone multiple PCs from one machine?

    - by Jason T.
    Where I work we have dozens and dozens of old ThinkPad laptops. A lot of these can be reused but not for our needs. They have been long since replaced. The higher-ups have decided to donate them to charity. For better or for worse I have been tasked with reimaging them. I took a laptop and installed the factory copy of Windows, updated it, configured it appropriately. Now I'm trying to reimage it to dozens of other laptops. What's some good software to do this? First I used clonezilla to clone the hdd in the laptop to an internal drive in an external enclosure and it worked. Then I tried taking the base image out and connecting it externally to a laptop that needed to be imaged and I got it to work a few times. So far so good, right? Well once I informed my boss of my findings and what I would want to do then the images started to not work on new laptops. One of three things would happen: The Thinkpads would just blink at me and Windows wouldn't load. Or Windows would load but freeze within two minutes. Last but not least the laptops would BSOD during the Windows XP bootup. These laptops are not going to be used by the company. They're going to charity. So can anyone else recommend a way to reimage multiple laptops?

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  • BIOS and Windows cannot detect CDROM device

    - by eman
    Hello! I have a HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4521B dvdrom device and a big problem. Some days ago everything worked fine. A friend installed some software and then the drives in winxp has been marked as corrupt. I uninstalled the software, but still corrupt drives. The next step I have done was running the current software GCC-4521B101(E).exe. When I ran this software again, the drives was automatically updated, but still marked as corrupt (in the Device Manager), even if I did a reboot. And then the big mistake: once more I tried to run this software, but during the update process, the machine restarted and boom! The DVDROM device doesn't work anymore. The led doesn't blink and if I push the eject button, nothing happens. Also bios and winxp doesn't recognize the optical drive. Then I plugged an other optical drive and it worked, but my old drive seems to be dead. So, what happened and how to solve this problem? Please help. Regards!

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  • Getting old bluetooth headset out of standby on Windows 7

    - by luagh45
    I think this is the problem, and if not, I'm open to suggestions. I have an old Jabra BT200 that I used to use on my phone. When a phone call was coming in it would beep using its own noises (meaning the phone never rang inside the headset) and then I could push the 'answer/hang up' button and sound and mic would start working. I have now paired it with Windows 7, and it looks good. Under the playback menu I have 'Bluetooth Hands free Audio / Jabra BT200 (Mono Audio) / Ready', and under the recording menu I have 'Bluetooth Audio Input Device / Jabra BT200 (Mono Audio) / Ready'. However when I try to test the speakers Windows sends a sound, but I never hear it, and when I talk in the mic, Windows never hears me. If I right click either the Bluetooth mic or speakers there's an option to 'Connect', but it's grayed out and I cannot click it. As the final piece of knowledge I have, my headset blinks once every 3 seconds when it's in standby and I can't get that to change. If everything was working it should blink once every second at which point I think all of my problems would be fixed. Hence my issue: I can't seem to get my headset out of standby. On my headset I've tried sending it test noises and then pressing the 'Answer' button, but still nothing. The headset beeps when I press it, so it works, it just doesn't ever come out of standby. Is there maybe some way to trick my headset into thinking it's getting a phone call from my computer?

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  • Ubuntu - wireless connection works great but wired is totally dead

    - by Dan
    I am running Ubuntu 10.04 on my Acer Aspire One netbook. The wireless connection works great, but the wired is totally dead. When I plug the Ethernet wire, the little led next to the port doesn't blink. If I do ifconfig, this is the output: lo Link encap:Local Loopback inet addr:127.0.0.1 Mask:255.0.0.0 inet6 addr: ::1/128 Scope:Host UP LOOPBACK RUNNING MTU:16436 Metric:1 RX packets:1659 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:1659 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:0 RX bytes:132304 (132.3 KB) TX bytes:132304 (132.3 KB) wlan0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr 18:f4:6a:65:48:1f inet addr:192.168.1.7 Bcast:192.168.1.255 Mask:255.255.255.0 inet6 addr: fe80::1af4:6aff:fe65:481f/64 Scope:Link UP BROADCAST RUNNING MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1 RX packets:94823 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:81390 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:93028474 (93.0 MB) TX bytes:18002558 (18.0 MB) There is no eth0. Is that normal? In the "Network Connections" GUI there is an entry "Wired connection 1", its "MAC address" field is blank. How can I make the wired connection work?

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  • Windows 8 Install Hanging at first white-font boot splash

    - by Omega
    I'm trying to install the Windows 8 preview on my Samsung Series 9 (2012, Ivy Bridge). I've done a bit of a custom scheme with this one: I'm using EFI/UEFI on this system. I've seen no indication that this system supports secure boot (yay!) My SSD is set up with GPT Ubuntu is already installed and working great via UEFI. I'm trying to boot the Windows 8 install from a USB stick via UEFI I don't have access to a CD drive. The problem is that the boot seems to hang at the very first splash screen that looks like this. White windows font, the little beads don't show up. My USB stick has an activity light and it does blink for the first few seconds, but then goes back to it's "nobody is talking to me" idle pulse. What I know: UEFI booting is definitely working. Windows 8 for those few seconds seems to have some kind of access to the USB drive. My Series 9 is running the latest BIOS/firmware. Any idea what I might be able to do to get Windows 8 installed??

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  • Graphics artifacts/distortion with Win7 and nVidia

    - by Gepard
    Problem I encounter is rather hard to describe, so I provide a screenshot: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1732760/video-distortion.png As you can see there are some horizontal stripes in random colors. These stripes appear sometimes in all windowed apps, games and on the desktop too. They tend to stay in place until I refresh window (or force it to to redraw by for example minimizing and maximizing again). They also tend to appear in the same place and shape multiple times, even if they disappear, it's very likely they will be again in the same place after a while. These artifacts do not blink or change if computer is idling. If I don't touch anything, do not use mouse, they will stay in place forever (unless some app redraws its window on its own). I first encountered this problem some weeks ago. Back then I thought it might be cooling problem, so I took out the graphics card, removed dust from the radiator and fan and put it into PC back. I also ran some stress test using Furmark (peak tempearature was ~65C) to see if the problem becomes more intense if the card gets hotter, but suprisingly no artifacts whatsoever appear during the stress test. Graphic card is Galaxy GeForce 7300 GT with DDR3 memory, was never overclocked. Drivers are the latest, from Nvidia site. OS is Windows 7 64-bit, updated. AMD64 3000+, 2GB RAM. I'm running a dual monitor setup with 2 19'' Samsung LCDs and problem is on both, so I assume it's not a monitor or cable issue.

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  • My scanner isn't responding. It is connected to a SCSI interface using Windows XP

    - by Bob
    I have a Microtek ScanMaker 9600XL scanner. The best part about it is that it is 12x17 inches. Wowza! The worst part about it is that I've had it working at one point, with the same cable, same card, same computer, but have since re-installed Windows XP on it. Currently it will turn on, and blink the Power and Ready lights. They should be solid. I've done my best to find documentation for this, but all I've really gotten is the content on the Microtek site. I've tried turning the scanner on, then the PC. Turning the PC on, then the scanner. When I try launching the software it pops up a dialog saying "ScanWizard Pro can't find any scanners! Use SCSI Check to find a scanner." I know the scanner has a pair of little buttons on the back. These cycle up/down a counter. I think it goes 0-7. Any thoughts on what that does, or how to proceed troubleshooting? I think my next step is to try each of those numbers, and do both pc booted first, and scanner booted first for each of those numbers...

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  • How do I connect to and factory reset a Catalyst 3560 Switch?

    - by Josh
    My company just bought another company. In their server room they had some older hardware, which I would like to repurpose. One of these is a Cisco Switch: C3560G-48TS-S. I found some instructions about this switch here but this is not a guide for a beginner. I have no idea how to connect to this thing to begin running the commands. It says Configure the PC terminal emulation software for 9600 baud, 8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop bit, and no flow control. But I can't find anything on how to do this (assuming with telnet?) or even what program to use. I also don't know how to find the IP address of the device to connect to it. My research also says once I get in there, I need to run clear config all Is this the right command? Also, what if I can't get the username and password for these devices? Is there some way to factory reset (my only experience is with devices that have a hardware reset button) EDIT: I should note that when I push the button on the front the three lights blink, which according to the documentation indicated the switch is configured and "not available for express setup"

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  • SharePoint OCR image files indexing

    Introduction This article describes how to setup indexing of the image files (including TIFF, PDF, JPEG, BMP...) using OCR technology. The indexing described below utilizes Microsoft IFilter technology and as such is not specific to SharePoint, but can be used with any product that uses Microsoft indexing: Microsoft Search, Desktop search, SQL Server search, and through the plug-ins with Google desktop search. I however use it with Microsoft Windows SharePoint Services 2003. For those other products, the registration may need to be slightly different. Background  One of the projects I was working on required a storage of old documents scanned into PDF files. Then there was a separate team of people responsible for providing a tags for a search engine so those image documents could be found. The whole process was clumsy, labor intensive, and error prone. That was what started me on my exploration path. OCR The first search I fired was for the Open Source OCR products. Pretty quickly, I narrowed it down to TESSERACT (http://code.google.com/p/tesseract-ocr/). Tesseract is an orphaned brain child of HP that worked on it from 1985 to 1995. Then it was moved to the Open Source, and now if I understand it correctly, Google is working on it. With credentials like that, it's no wonder that Tesseract scores one of the highest marks on OCR recognition and accuracy. After downloading and struggling just a bit, I got Tesseract to work. The struggling part was that the home page claims that its base input format is a TIFF file. May be my TIFFs were bad, but I was able to get it to work only for BMP files. Image files conversion So now that I have an OCR that can convert BMP files into text, how do I get text out of the image PDF files? One more search, and I settled down on ImageMagic (http://www.imagemagick.org/). This is another wonderful Open Source utility that can convert any file into image. It did work out of the box, converting any TIFF files into bitmaps, but to get PDF files converted, it requires a GhostScript (http://mirror.cs.wisc.edu/pub/mirrors/ghost/GPL/gs864/gs864w32.exe). Dealing with text PDFs With that utility installed, I was cooking - I can convert any file (in particular PDF and TIFF) into bitmap, and then I can extract the text out of the bitmap. The only consideration was to somehow treat PDF files containing text differently - after all, OCR is very computation intensive and somewhat error prone even with perfect image quality and resolution. So another quick search, and I have a PDFTOTEXT (ftp://ftp.foolabs.com/pub/xpdf/xpdf-3.02pl4-win32.zip) - thank God for Open Source! With these guys, I can pull text out of PDF in an eye blink. However, I would get nothing for pure image PDFs, but I already have a solution for that! Batch process It took another 15 minutes to setup a batch script to automate the process: Check the file extension If file is a PDF file try to extract text out of it if there is more than certain amount of text in the file - done! if there is no text, convert first page into bitmap run OCR on the bitmap For any other file type, convert file into bitmap Run OCR on the bitmap Once you unzip the attached project, check out the bin\OCR.BAT file. It will create a temporary file in the directory where your source file is with the same name + the '.txt' extension.Continue span.fullpost {display:none;}

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  • Math with Timestamp

    - by Knut Vatsendvik
    table.sql { border-width: 1px; border-spacing: 2px; border-style: dashed; border-color: #0023ff; border-collapse: separate; background-color: white; } table.sql th { border-width: 1px; padding: 1px; border-style: none; border-color: gray; background-color: white; -moz-border-radius: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } table.sql td { border-width: 1px; padding: 3px; border-style: none; border-color: gray; background-color: white; -moz-border-radius: 0px 0px 0px 0px; } .sql-keyword { color: #0000cd; background-color: inherit; } .sql-result { color: #458b74; background-color: inherit; } Got this little SQL quiz from a colleague.  How to add or subtract exactly 1 second from a Timestamp?  Sounded simple enough at first blink, but was a bit trickier than expected. If the data type had been a Date, we knew that we could add or subtract days, minutes or seconds using + or – sysdate + 1 to add one day sysdate - (1 / 24) to subtract one hour sysdate + (1 / 86400) to add one second Would the same arithmetic work with Timestamp as with Date? Let’s test it out with the following query SELECT   systimestamp , systimestamp + (1 / 86400) FROM dual; ---------- 03.05.2010 22.11.50,240887 +02:00 03.05.2010 The first result line shows us the system time down to fractions of seconds. The second result line shows the result as Date (as used for date calculation) meaning now that the granularity is reduced down to a second.   By using the PL/SQL dump() function, we can confirm this with the following query SELECT   dump(systimestamp) , dump(systimestamp + (1 / 86400)) FROM dual; ---------- Typ=188 Len=20: 218,7,5,4,8,53,9,0,200,46,89,20,2,0,5,0,0,0,0,0 Typ=13 Len=8: 218,7,5,4,10,53,10,0 Where typ=13 is a runtime representation for Date. So how can we increase the precision to include fractions of second? After investigating it a bit, we found out that the interval data type INTERVAL DAY TO SECOND could be used with the result of addition or subtraction being a Timestamp. Let’s try again our first query again, now using the interval data type. SELECT systimestamp,    systimestamp + INTERVAL '0 00:00:01.0' DAY TO SECOND(1) FROM dual; ---------- 03.05.2010 22.58.32,723659000 +02:00 03.05.2010 22.58.33,723659000 +02:00 Yes, it worked! To finish the story, here is one example showing how to specify an interval of 2 days, 6 hours, 30 minutes, 4 seconds and 111 thousands of a second. INTERVAL ‘2 6:30:4.111’ DAY TO SECOND(3)

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  • Comparing Isis, Google, and Paypal

    - by David Dorf
    Back in 2010 I was sure NFC would make great strides, but here we are two years later and NFC doesn't seem to be sticking. The obvious reason being the chicken-and-egg problem.  Retailers don't want to install the terminals until the phones support NFC, and vice-versa. So consumers continue to sit on the sidelines waiting for either side to blink and make the necessary investment.  In the meantime, EMV is looking for a way to sneak into the US with the help of the card brands. There are currently three major solutions that are battling in the marketplace.  All three know that replacing mag-stripe alone is not sufficient to move consumers.  Long-term it's the offers and loyalty programs combined with tendering that make NFC attractive. NFC solutions cross lots of barriers, so a strong partner system is required.  The solutions need to include the carriers, card brands, banks, handset manufacturers, POS terminals, and most of all lots of merchants.  Lots of coordination is necessary to make the solution seamless to the consumer. Google Wallet Google's problem has always been that only the Nexus phone has an NFC chip that supports their wallet.  There are a couple of additional phones out there now, but adoption is still slow.  They acquired Zavers a while back to incorporate digital coupons, but the the bulk of their users continue to be non-NFC.  They have taken an open approach by not specifying particular payment brands.  Google is piloting in San Francisco and New York, supporting both MasterCard PayPass and stored value. I suppose the other card brands may eventually follow.  There's no cost for consumers or merchants -- Google will make money via targeted ads. Isis Not long after Google announced its wallet, AT&T, Verizon, and T-Mobile announced a joint venture called Isis.  They are in the unique position of owning the SIM in the phones they issue.  At first it seemed Isis was a vehicle for the carriers to compete with the existing card brands, but Isis later switched to a generic wallet that supports the major card brands.  Isis reportedly charges issuers a $5 fee per customer per year.  Isis will pilot this summer in Salt Lake City and Austin. PayPal PayPal, the clear winner in the online payment space beyond traditional credit cards, is trying to move into physical stores.  After negotiations with Google to provide a wallet broke off, PayPal decided to avoid NFC altogether, at least for now, and focus on payments without any physical card or phone.  By avoiding NFC, consumers don't need an NFC-enabled phone and merchants don't need a new reader.  Consumers must enter their phone number and PIN in the merchant's existing device, or they can enter their PIN in the PayPal inStore app running on their phone, then show the merchant a unique barcode which authorizes payment. Paypal is free for consumers and charges a fee for merchants.  Its not clear, at least to me, how PayPal handles fraudulent transactions and whether the consumer is protected. The wildcard is, of course, Apple.  Their mobile technologies set the standard, so incorporating NFC chips would certainly accelerate adoption of many payment solutions.  Their announcement today of the iOS Passbook is a step in the right direction, but stops short of handling payments. For those retailers that have invested in modern terminals, it seems the best strategy is to support all the emerging solutions and let the consumers choose the winner.

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  • MPMoviePlayerController problem at start

    - by Infinity
    Hello guys! I have a problem with MPMoviePlayerController, because when I start it in fullscreen it exists, but the song is still playing. I added the MPMoviePlayerDidExitFullscreenNotification notification and it says that when the video starts playin it exists the full screen. Here's my code: _multimediaPlayer = [[MPMoviePlayerController alloc] init]; _multimediaPlayer.controlStyle = MPMovieControlStyleDefault; _multimediaPlayer.initialPlaybackTime = 0; [[NSNotificationCenter defaultCenter] addObserver:self selector:@selector(videoPlayBackDidFinish:) name:MPMoviePlayerPlaybackDidFinishNotification object:nil]; [[NSNotificationCenter defaultCenter] addObserver:self selector:@selector(videoPlayerDidExitFullscreen:) name:MPMoviePlayerDidExitFullscreenNotification object:nil]; [[NSNotificationCenter defaultCenter] addObserver:self selector:@selector(videoPlayerPlaybackStateChanged:) name:MPMoviePlayerPlaybackStateDidChangeNotification object:nil]; NSString *path = [NSString stringWithFormat:@"%@/mag_%d/%@", [FMUtils documentsFolderPathWithFile:nil], _magID, _pageObject.fileName]; if ([FMUtils fileExistsAtPath:path]) { _multimediaPlayer.contentURL = [NSURL fileURLWithPath:path]; } else { _multimediaPlayer.contentURL = [NSURL URLWithString:[NSString stringWithFormat:@"%@%@", self.dataURL, _pageObject.fileName]]; } CGSize objectViewSize = self.frame.size; _multimediaPlayer.view.frame = CGRectMake(0, 0, objectViewSize.width, objectViewSize.height); [self addSubview:_multimediaPlayer.view]; if (_pageObject.blink) { [_multimediaPlayer setFullscreen:YES animated:YES]; } [_multimediaPlayer play]; Most of the time it happens when the video is not downloaded and it needs to stream it. Do you have any idea why is this happen?

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  • Simple Java Applet not loading in FireFox / Safari on MacOS

    - by Sleepless
    Hello all, I'm probably missing something very basic here. I'm trying to get my first applet to run inside a local HTML page in Firefox 3.6 on Mac OS 10.5.8. Here's the applet's code: package SimpleApplet; import java.applet.Applet; import java.awt.*; public class MyApplet extends Applet { private static final long serialVersionUID = 1L; public void init() { } public void stop() { } public void paint(Graphics g) { g.drawString("Tweedle-Dee!",20,40); } } Here's the HTML page: <html> <body> Here's the applet: <br/> <applet code="MyApplet.class" width="300" height="150"> </applet> </body> </html> Both files (.class and .html) are in the same folder on my local machine. Now when I load the .html file into Firefox, a rectangle with a red X gets displayed. The applet works when started from Eclipse (using JRE 1.5 BTW). Also, it's not a general problem with my browser, as several pages with applets (e.g. http://java.sun.com/applets/jdk/1.4/demo/applets/Blink/example1.html) work. This is also difficult to troubleshoot because there is no output at all on the Java console... Any suggestions are appreciated!

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