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  • I have been told to accept one error with Memtest86+

    - by DustByte
    Bought a new computer back in August with 4x4 GB RAM. Had problems with the RAM. They sent me four new sticks, which also generated errors. Singled out four sticks (from the eight I now had) that didn't generate any errors. Discovered by coincident a new RAM error last week (this time no BSOD). Contacted the company. According to them there have been issues with a bad stock from last summer so I got two tested 8 GB sticks sent to me. Been running Memtest86+ over the weekend. After 20 hours I got an error (see attached photo). The test has now been running for 37 hours but so far only this one error. I contacted the company where I bought the computer. They wrote back: I wouldn't worry about hat one fail. We have had similar situations here whereby it passes numerous times but then fails once. We think it's an issue with memtest, after all memory is faulty or it isn't so you can't really have it pass a few times, fail the next time around and then pass again! Please trust me on this and continue with the memory we sent you and if your problems continue we'll look at getting it replaced again. I gather from other forum posts that many people do not accept a single error. What could this single error signify, faulty RAM or a glitch in the MEMTEST program (or other)? Update: From the helpful comments below I conclude that an occasional (and rare) "random" error could occur and be acceptable, but repeated errors at the same address would indicate malfunction. Memtest has now run for 45 hours and I still have only one error. For everyone's information, I will keep running the test. In less than two days I am going away for a month. I will most likely leave Memtest running. As I do not have a UPS there is a risk that a power outage will ruin the experiment. The computer is a desktop so I cannot bring it with me (which would curiously have exposed it to more cosmic rays as I will be flying ;)).

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  • Issue with Capslock key on Laptop

    - by Mr New
    For some reason my laptop has a mind of its own and the Caps Lock tends to come on whenever it feels like it. I thought it was an software issue from that reasoning, but I later cleared the OS and then reinstalled it hoping to fix the problem, but it didn't. Not only does it do that it also comes on and off whenever the letters A, S, and left shift key are pushed. So I assummed it was a keyboard issue and that the keyboard needs to be replaced, but it has one of those touch pad cap lock buttons also, because even when I press that button it tends to not react. So how can that be fixed with a keyboard replacement or is that connected still? EDIT - I followed the direction with the following code in notepad and it didn't do the job: Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Keyboard Layout] “Scancode Map”=hex:00000000 00000000 0200000000 00003A00 00000000

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  • Adding a new USB port inside a Macbook Pro

    - by MikeC8
    I have a USB Dongle that I'd like to put inside my Macbook Pro. I have already found a spot that will fit the dongle. The next question is splicing one of the USB ports and connecting it to the dongle. Here's a photograph of the inside of my Macbook Pro, showing the USB ports and a little gray plastic divider with four holes in it above each port. http://min.us/mvoQEem My question: Does anyone know what is inside these holes? Presumably each one is a pin for the USB port, right? Can I just stick a wire in there, giving me 4 pins, plus the fifth attached to the metal outside the port? More generally, any one have any ideas for what might be the easiest way to get a USB port inside my MBP? :) Thanks!

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  • How do I usb tether my Cyanogen modded G1's internet connection to my Toshiba Tecra 8000 running Xubuntu?

    - by atticus
    I have usb-tethering enabled in my phone. It works fine with Vista. When I plug my phone into my Tecra 8000 laptop running Xubuntu, dmesg shows: "usb 1-1: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 8". I see that the OS has detected it as a storage device, but I can't get it to function correctly as a network device. /dev/us* shows no usb0, but it does show /dev/usbdev1.1_ep00 /dev/usbdev1.1_ep81 /dev/usbdev1.8_ep00 ... usbdev1.8_ep83 I could just use the wireless tether app for android, but I can't get my Netgear wg511 v2 (made in China) wireless card to work in this laptop either. But that's another post for later.

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  • Is it possible to dedicate the physical screen of a vmware server machine to a guest vm graphically?

    - by matnagel
    I have a vmware server 2.x running on ubuntu server (8.04). So the graphics card and the screen of the physical box are unused (I log in remotely and the host os has only the cli console installed). I wonder if it is possible to assign this graphics card to a virtual machine directly and use it for the gui of this guest? Or maybe if I add a second graphics card to the machine?

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  • DIMMs: Single vs. Double vs. Quad Rank

    - by MikeyB
    What difference does the 'Rank' of DIMMs make to server memory? For example, when looking at server configurations I see the following being offered for the same server: 2GB (1x2GB) Single Rank PC3-10600 CL9 ECC DDR3-1333 VLP RDIMM 2GB (1x2GB) Dual Rank PC3-10600 CL9 ECC DDR3-1333 VLP RDIMM Given the option of Single Rank vs. Dual Rank or Dual Rank vs. Quad Rank is one always: Faster? Cheaper? Higher Bandwidth?

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  • Why are my USB 2.0 devices hanging Windows XP?

    - by BenAlabaster
    Background on the machine I'm having a problem with: The machine was inherited and appears to be circa 2003 (there's a date stamp on the power supply which leads me to this conclusion). I've got it set up as a Skype terminal for my 2 year old to keep in touch with her grandparents and other members of the family - which everyone loves. It has a generic ATX motherboard with no identifying markings other than one stamp that says "Rev.B". CPU-Z identifies the motherboard model as VT8601 but doesn't provide me with any manufacturer name. On board it has 1 x 10/100 LAN, 2 x USB 1.0, VGA, PS/2 for KB and mouse, parallel port, 2 x serial ports, 2 x IDE, 1 x floppy, 2 x SDRAM slots, 1 x CPU housing that is seating a 1.3GHz Intel Celeron CPU, 3 x PCI, 1 x AGP - although you can only use 2 of the PCI slots if you use the AGP slot due to the physical layout of the board. It's got 768Mb PC133 SDRAM - 1 x 512Mb & 1 x 256Mb installed as well as a D-LINK WDA-2320 54G Wi-Fi network card and a generic USB 2.0 expansion board containing 3 x external + 1 x internal USB connectors - it has a NEC uPD720102 chipset. It has a DVD+/-RW running as master on IDE1 and a 1.44Mb 3.5" floppy drive connected to the floppy connector. It has an 80Gb Western Digital hard drive running as master on IDE0. All this is sitting in a slimline case. I don't know the wattage of the PSU, but can post this later if this proves to be helpful. The motherboard is running a version of Award BIOS for which I don't have the version number to hand but can again post this later if it would be helpful. The hard disk is freshly formatted and built with Windows XP Professional/Service Pack 3 and is up to date with all current patches. In addition to Windows XP, the only other software it's running is Skype 4.1 (4.2 hangs the whole machine as soon as it starts up, requiring a hard boot to recover). It's got a Daytek MV150 15" touch screen hooked up to the on board VGA and COM1 sockets with the most current drivers from the Daytek website and the most current version of ELO-Touchsystems drivers for the touch component. The webcam is a Logitech Webcam C200 with the latest drivers from the Logitech website. The problem: If I hook any devices to the USB 2.0 sockets, it hangs the whole machine and I have to hard boot it to get it back up. If I have any devices attached to the USB 2.0 sockets when I boot up, it hangs before Windows gets to the login prompt and I have to hard boot it to recover. Workarounds found: I can plug the same devices into the on board USB 1.0 sockets and everything works fine, albeit at reduced performance. I've tried 3 different kinds of USB thumb drives, 3 different makes/models of webcams and my iPhone all with the same effect. They're recognized and don't hang the machine when I hook them to the USB 1.0 but if I hook them to the USB 2.0 ports, the machine hangs within a couple of seconds of recognizing the devices were connected. Attempted solutions: I've seen suggestions that this could be a power problem - that the PSU just doesn't have the wattage to drive these ports. While I'm doubtful this is the problem [after all the motherboard has the same standard connector regardless of the PSU wattage], I tried disabling all the on board devices that I'm not using - on board LAN, the second COM port, the AGP connector etc. through the BIOS in what I'm sure is a futile attempt to reduce the power consumption... I also modified the ACPI and power management settings. It didn't have any noticeable affect, although it didn't do any harm either. Could the wattage of the PSU really cause this problem? If it can, is there anything I need to be aware of when replacing it or do I just need to make sure it's got a higher wattage than the current one? My interpretation was that the wattage only affected the number of drives you could hook up to the power connectors, is that right? I've installed the USB card in another machine and it works without issue, so it's not a problem with the USB card itself, and Windows says the card is installed and working correctly... right up until I connect a device to it. The only thing I haven't done which I only just thought of while writing this essay is trying the USB 2.0 card in a different PCI slot, or re-ordering the wi-fi and USB cards in the slots... although I'm not sure if this will make any difference - does anyone have any experience that would suggest this might work? Other thoughts/questions: Perhaps this is an incompatibility between the USB 2.0 card and the BIOS, would re-flashing the BIOS with a newer version help? Do I need to be able to identify the manufacturer of the motherboard in order to be able to find a BIOS edition specific for this motherboard or will any version of Award BIOS function in its place? Question: Does anyone have any ideas that could help me get my USB 2.0 devices hooked up to this machine? Edit: Updated the USB 2.0 info with reference to actual card - http://www.xpcgear.com/lpnec4u.html

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  • Jumbo Frames on DIR-655

    - by Spookyone
    Hello, I am trying to set up jumbo frames on my gigabit home LAN but no luck so far. My setup is: D-Link DIR-655 router, HW Revision A3, Firmware 1.21 EU Synology DS107+, Firmware 3.0-1337 Laptop w/ Win7 x64, external PCIx NIC managed by "Generic Marvel Yukon 88E8053 based Ethernet Controller" The router is supposed to support jumbo frames but doesn't feature any relevant setting. I set the Jumbo Packet value to 9000 on both the NIC and the Synobox but it doesn't work, ping -f -l 8972 says "Packet needs to be fragmented but DF set". Is there any other setting I overlooked, the DIR-655 doesn't actually support jumbo frames, or what else could be the problem?

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  • How cpu writes data to dynamic RAM

    - by Krit
    Hello, I would like to know what kind of electrical signals does a cpu send to a dynamic RAM when it wants to write one bit (a 1 or 0). Is it simply that cpu sends just a single electric pulse, and if that electric pulse's voltage is higher than a certain level, it charges the capacitor to a voltage level that is "1" and if it is at a lower voltage band, it charges capacitor to level that it is "0"?

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  • Dell Vostro Desktop error.

    - by goldenmean
    Faced a strange situation at work today. We have people sitting at a table on opposite sides, with power cables underneath the table. This morning when the person sitting opposite to me banged his feet on ground, it disturbed the power cable to my PC and it turned-off. So when I turned it on, it says, "No boot device found" Press F1 to setup or F5 to perform test... There was no physical impact/crash/fall of the desktop cabinet, which could have crashed/damaged the hard disk physically. EDIT: The OS is Windows 7 So I tried to recognize it in the Bios setup, but even there it could not find the SATA disk that is connected to this machine. So then I opened the cabinet, removed the power supply and plugged it back again. Tried to reboot, same error, "Boot device not found" It is not recognizing the hard disk. Any ideas about what might be wrong? Hard-disk crash, OS Crash(But it doesn't even go to the point of loading the disk after the initial Bios execution, so doubt this...) Any pointers about how I should proceed to troubleshoot/solve this error are welcome.

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  • FreeBSD after motherboard replacement; should I have any concerns?

    - by cc
    So after three years my motherboard (Asus M2N-0MX) has died off. As I go shopping for i's replacement tomorrow I have a concern about the data that I currently have on the drives wtihin. I'm currently running BSD 6.2, and am wondering if there would be any concern with installing a new OS on that system, would it be better to jsut install the latest BSD version, and are their any pitfalls that I should watch for to make sure I don't end up losing 750gb's of data. The setup consists of the following(to the best of my knowledge): Pioneer DVD drive 3ware RAID card four 250gb SATA drives in RAID 5 config thanks to anyone that can offer some advice, or just to confirm if I am over thinking things.

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  • Simple electric DC question. Currency consumption

    - by Bobb
    Suppose you have DC power supply and a consumer connected to it (i.e. computer PSU and a hard drive). Suppose PSU which was supplied with the consumer has output 5V 1A. So I assume that the consumer should not consume more than 1A. Suppose the original PSU is broken now and I want to replace it with the one I have which is 5V 10A. My guess is that current is something which depends on the consumer. So if the consumer consumes normally 1A then it will not consume more than that even if it is connected to 10A PSU. In other word - am I right assuming that the consumer will not burn out being connected to a power supply with higher current output? P.S. my understanding is that voltage is something independent from the consumer. If you give it higher voltage it will burn (voltage is from PSU to the consumer). However current must be in opposite - consumer sucks as much current as it need not as much as PSU can provide (of course given that max PSU current is greater than the consumer needs)

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  • Is there a USB ethernet (wired) adapter that is really compatible with Windows 7 64-bit?

    - by nbolton
    I've checked the Windows 7 compatibility site, and it lists a fair few USB ethernet (wired, not wireless) adapters that should work with Windows 7 64-bit. However, whenever I Google for the model number and Windows 7 64-bit, there's many forum posts claiming that the devices actually don't work with 64-bit (but do work with 32-bit). I've actually also found this with the LUPO USB ethernet adapter; works with 32-bit win7, but not 64-bit (no drivers available). So is there anyone out there who is 100% certain, and have actually used successfully, a 64-bit win7 capable USB ethernet adapter?

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  • Broken Motherboard Trace

    - by CoffeeBean
    When you're fairly certain that a motherboard trace is broken near the CPU (i.e.: you suspect heatsink / fan was improperly inserted) is it advisable to attempt a repair? I've heard that it can be done using a substance for repairing embedded windshield defoggers. Has anyone had any experience with this?

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  • Upgrading memory in a laptop

    - by ulidtko
    I'm a bit confused about all the memory types and various bus frequencies of modern consumer PCs. Requesting expert help on the subject. So far I'm confident that: I have an Asus X51L laptop with an unknown set of configuration options. The CPU in there supports PAE, so I still have a chance to extend the memory beyond 3GiB; and the upper limit of the system is 8GiB. (?) The laptop has two SODIMM slots, one of which is occupied by a 2GiB bank, and the other one is empty. dmidecode and lshw tools consistently state 533 Mhz frequency of the bank. The last one confuses me the most. I failed to find out characteristics of the northbridge in this laptop, and still can't figure out what DDR2 to seek for. Is it DDR2-1066? Or, rather, PC2-8500/PC2-8600? Wouldn't a DDR2-800 bank harm the system's performance? Which kind of modules should I look up in stores? Update: I have bought a 2 GiB DDR2-800 SODIMM, and it seams that the system can't handle 4 GiB of memory. When installed by itself in either slot, both new and old bank (which btw happens to be marked GDDR2-677) work just perfectly; i.e. any configuration resulting in 2 GiB works. When both banks are installed though (totalling in 4 GiB), the memcheck86 tool produces horrible artifacts and crashes, and system reboots; an Ubuntu system can be started and even logged into a Unity session, but the system reboots too in this case from even a minor RAM load. So it's pretty obvious to me now that this laptop doesn't support 4 GiB of RAM or more.

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  • HP Pavilion dv6000 QuickPlay power on

    - by user22559
    Hello I have a question for HP Pavilion dv6000 owners. If your laptop is powered down, and you press the QuickPlay button or the DVD button (NOT the power button), does the laptop start up? More info: I am asking this because I have got a hold of a broken HP dv6000. If I power it up, the power light lights up, and then the laptop powers down. It seems to be because of a broken motherboard. But the laptop does the same thing if you press the QuickPlay or DVD buttons, and I want to know if that's supposed to happen, or if it's something else that is wrong.

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  • Is the cooling fan on a 2004 graphics card really necessary?

    - by Andrew
    I have an old GeForce 6600 card in my computer, circa 2004. Recently the fan has started playing up and making loud irritating noises. I've tried oiling it with no luck. This is the second fan I've put on the card, the stock one broke ages ago. Is a card this old really likely to need a cooling fan or can I remove it altogether? It has a decent heatsink on the chip but there's not a lot of airflow in that part of the box. Edit: I should add that I seem to remember most mid range graphics cards at the time I bought that didn't have fans (pretty sure they had heatsinks only), which is why I'm wondering.

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  • My MacBook Pro (2011) is dead

    - by Dave
    I connected my Sony digital camera with the MacBook and the screen turned black. I wonder why because the Sony camera was not on at the time and technically could not be accessed. So I thought it might be temporary and I turned on my camera. Well, it did not work, but my MacBook Pro has been dead since then. It will not turn on - when I hold the power button for five seconds, nothing happens. When I connect the charger cable, the green light is very dim and blinks a little (with about 20% illumination). I wonder what the problem is. I have to call Apple Care, but just so that I know, what could be wrong? Is my MacBook permanently dead? It might be under warranty but I am not sure.

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  • Weird RAM Upgrade Experience

    - by Axel Isouard
    I have a laptop, HP EliteBook 8540p having originally 4GB RAM and I've recently bought Corsair Value Select SO-DIMM 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR3 1333 MHz. It fits the required RAM specifications perfectly, and once I've inserted them, the BIOS recognizes the memory correctly, but my linux Gentoo running on kernel 3.1.6 SMP x86_64 crashes immediately when I'm running an app which consumes a lot of memory. The laptop crashes as if there's no more battery left, when the memory reaches at least 6000MB ram. Windows 7 doesn't want to run anymore, it shows a blue screen with the IRQ LESS OR EQUAL error if I set 8GB, and it doesn't boot at all if I set 16GB. Is there something I could do to fix this please ?

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  • Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

    - by Jeff M
    I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

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  • Formatting a 5.25" floppy disk

    - by Spütnik
    So after the massive trouble of finding a 5.25" floppy drive and a connecting it up, then changing the BIOS so it's set as my A: drive, I tried to format a couple of high-density 1.2MB floppy disks using the "format A:" command in Command Prompt. Both times it formatted only 160KB and left it at that. If I then check the amount of space on those disks, it then comes up as 160KB. Why is this the case? How can I get my the full value out of my 1.2MB? For reference, I have a Mitsubishi MF504C-318UG, which should support 1.2MB disks.

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  • 3 wire computer fan won't run continuously

    - by Ben
    I had an old computer that didn't work anymore, so I took the CPU fan out to see what I could make with it. The fan is NMB model number BG0903-B044-VTL, like this. It has three wires coming off of it, red, black, and white. I know that the white wire is usually a speed sensor. Does this wire need to be connected to something in order for the fan to run continuously? Right now when I apply power to the red and black wires (from a 9-volt battery) the fan will spin very briefly, and then slow down until it stops. The fan's motor only spins in the instant that the power is turned on, but doesn't continue, even though the power is still applied. How can I get the fan to spin continuously?

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