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  • All USB ports on my laptop are dead, any options via Ethernet, SD/MMC or HDMI?

    - by carbontracking
    My son's laptop has taken alot of pain in his school over the last few months and he and his buddies have succeeded in breaking both USB ports. I've opened the box, unsoldered the USB ports, replaced them by new components but no joy - the ports seem dead. If I assume that the insertion of LEGO pieces, etc. in USB ports has rendered them unsalvageable, do I have any other options for restoring USB access to the laptop? The laptop has an ethernet port, a HDMI port and an SD/MMC port. I've trawled the web for a magic adadpter, i.e; ethernet=USB, HDMI=USB or SD/MMC=USB but to no avail. Lots of options for going the other way though. Does anyone have any ideas on the feasibility of an ethernet=USB cable? Ethernet doesn't seem to have +5V or GND so I can run a cable from the motherboard that could provide those. Amazing how many functions of a laptop just disappear when you have no USB ports.

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  • how to program a special key on my laptop?

    - by daniel11
    ok so i have a set of touch screen buttons on the top of my laptop's keyboard, (one turns on power save mode, one disables/enables the mouse touch pad, one toggles the wifi adapter, and two turns the volume up/down) however theres another one that opened a file backup utility that came with my laptop. but since i bought my laptop , ive uninstalled that utility, rendering this button useless. So i was wondering if it was possible to reprogram that button to open another file or program on my computer? And if so what are the requirements and how would i go about doing it? Thanks in advance!

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  • What influences the kind of RAM a desktop or laptop can support?

    - by Albert Iordache
    What exactly influences the kind of RAM a desktop or laptop can support? Apart from the clock speed, the maximum amount of RAM the motherboard can handle, the DDR type (1/2/3) and the shape of the module (DIMM for desktops, SO-DIMM for laptops)? I see that in certain cases, such as with the Kingston 4GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9, (and on the Kingston KTD-L3B/4G page) the page displays a set of laptop product numbers. Does the actual model of the laptop also influence the models of RAM it can support? Could, for instance, an Asus K52 work with that particular RAM module, even if it specifies Dell models?

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  • How can I repair the boot loader on my laptop?

    - by zbalata
    I had removed my HD from a Dell laptop and accessed it with an external HD port on another computer. Though after returning it to the Dell laptop, it will no longer boot. The PC came pre-installed with Windows 7 and I do not have an installation disk. None of the contents of the original install have been removed or modified. If I use another laptop running Windows 7 to create a repair/recovery disk, would I be able to use it on my Dell to repair the boot sector? How can I repair the bootmgr? It's frustrating knowing there's a perfectly good operating system there that wont boot. Thanks for your time!

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  • Trying to install Windows 7 on Samsung 530u3c. Laptop won't boot

    - by Osvaldo
    I just bought a Samsung 530u3c with Windows 8 installed,so it's a week old. From day one, I have wanted to revert back to Windows 7. So I have created a USB bootable drive with Windows 7 on, and tried installing it both on the SSD 24GB drive and the 465GB SATA HDD. The laptop will not boot from either drive. After trying to boot once, the laptop reboots and then presents me with a boot menu that only shows the SATA HDD. Selecting it does nothing. So I'm losing my mind here. I have absolutely no clue on how to solve this. I'm starting to think i just threw away 700 Euros... :( Any thoughts on what my next steps should be in troubleshooting the issue? Installation goes through without problems. All files are copied. By the time the laptop needs to restart, it goes into a boot loop.

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  • Wired and wireless conections: force Windows to connect to laptop through Ethernet?

    - by danielkza
    I have a desktop connected to the internet and to my home network through Wi-Fi, and a latptop connected to said desktop through an Ethernet cable. But Windows seems to only reach the laptop through Wi-Fi: I want to transfer files through the wired connection instead. Setting up Internet Connectin Sharing and disconnecting the laptop from Wi-Fi altogether doesn't seem like the most elegant solution to me. I also thought about going to the hosts file and setting up the IP address manually, but that would make the laptop completely unavailable if it's not wired, which happens quite often unfortunately. Is there any way for me to tell Windows to use the wired connection for a particular host if possible, and fallback to any other route it finds otherwise?

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  • Can i create a virtual machine on my laptop to be used with another monitor?

    - by Ranhiru
    OK, the scenario is like this... I have my laptop... and I have another user without a unit. He has only a keyboard, mouse and a monitor. Is there anyway that I can make him use my computer by creating a virtual environment which he will access, BUT, without interfering with my work. I use my laptop and view my OS from the laptop monitor. I create a virtual environment (some OS probably XP) and run it. The virtual environment is displayed in the connected monitor and the other user uses it using the extra keyboard/mouse and the monitor but without interfering my screen! Is this possible? Stupid? Futuristic? Need more hardware?

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  • Does adding 1066Mhz DDR3 SODIMM to a 1600Mhz FSB laptop make sense?

    - by Alain Pannetier
    My previous laptop had 4x4GB 1066 Mhz DDR3. My new laptop instead has only 2x4GB 1600 Mhz DDR3. Using dmidecode I gather my FSB is set to 2300Mhz. Max Speed: 3800 MHz Current Speed: 2300 MHz 2 questions: Can somebody confirm I can safely add two "old" 1066Mhz modules to my new laptop before I treat myself to faster DDR3 modules? I understand this should not slow down the faster 2 1600 Mhz DDR3 modules. Correct? If this is of any relevance, I'm running Linux Mint Maya.

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  • How to test Laptop NIC's throughput using a router and PC - without be bounded?

    - by 0x90
    My setup includes: Cisco router An i-7 PC running windows A laptop with high speed wifi nic, which I want to check its throughput. I would like to run an FTP server on the PC. hook the router over cables to the PC. I would like to have the PC create its own subnet accessible via the cisco router that would be hooked directly to the PC's nic. From the laptop I want to connect via wifi to the PC's wireless router and connect to the ftp server on the PC. is it possible? how do i connect the router to the PC nic and make it broadcast a subnet via wifi for my laptop to connect to? how do i configure an FTP server to operate only on this subnet?

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  • My Portable Hard Drive with USB3 didn't work when connected to My Laptop, but it working with USB2 properly

    - by Mohammad Hasan Esfahanian
    I have Western Digital My Passport Essential Portable Hard Drive with USB3 and Model:WDBACY5000ABK-EESN. Until about two or three months ago when I connected that to My Laptop USB3 port, that worked very well. But now when I'm connecting that to My device, The system does not detect any Hard Drives. When plug in the USB2 port is working properly. I connected that to another Laptop whit USB3 port but I had the same problem. I tested My Laptop port with a Flash Memory by USB3 and ports were healthy and I'm sure they are working. For this issue, I changed the windows, but it still did not work. What can I do? Thanks in advance.

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  • How do I program a hardware button on my laptop?

    - by daniel11
    So I have a set of touch screen buttons on the top of my laptop's keyboard, (one turns on power save mode, one disables/enables the mouse touch pad, one toggles the wifi adapter, and two turns the volume up/down). However there's another one that opened a file backup utility that came with my laptop. Since I bought my laptop, I've uninstalled that utility, rendering this button useless. Would it be possible to reprogram that button to open another file or program on my computer? And if so, what are the requirements and how would I go about doing it? Thanks in advance!

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  • HTG Explains: Should You Buy Extended Warranties?

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Buy something at an electronics store and you’ll be confronted by a pushy salesperson who insists you need an extended warranty. You’ll also see extended warranties pushed hard when shopping online. But are they worth it? There’s a reason stores push extended warranties so hard. They’re almost always pure profit for the store involved. An electronics store may live on razor-thin product margins and make big profits on extended warranties and overpriced HDMI cables. You’re Already Getting Multiple Warranties First, back up. The product you’re buying already includes a warranty. In fact, you’re probably getting several different types of warranties. Store Return and Exchange: Most electronics stores allow you to return a malfunctioning product within the first 15 or 30 days and they’ll provide you with a new one. The exact period of time will vary from store to store. If you walk out of the store with a defective product and have to swap it for a new one within the first few weeks, this should be easy. Manufacturer Warranty: A device’s manufacturer — whether the device is a laptop, a television, or a graphics card — offers their own warranty period. The manufacturer warranty covers you after the store refuses to take the product back and exchange it. The length of this warranty depends on the type of product. For example, a cheap laptop may only offer a one-year manufacturer warranty, while a more expensive laptop may offer a two-year warranty. Credit Card Warranty Extension: Many credit cards offer free extended warranties on products you buy with that credit card. Credit card companies will often give you an additional year of warranty. For example, if you buy a laptop with a two year warranty and it fails in the third year, you could then contact your credit card company and they’d cover the cost of fixing or replacing it. Check your credit card’s benefits and fine print for more information. Why Extended Warranties Are Bad You’re already getting a fairly long warranty period, especially if you have a credit card that offers you a free extended warranty — these are fairly common. If the product you get is a “lemon” and has a manufacturing error, it will likely fail pretty soon — well within your warranty period. The extended warranty matters after all your other warranties are exhausted. In the case of a laptop with a two-year warranty that you purchase with a credit card giving you a one-year warranty extension, your extended warranty will kick in three years after you purchase the laptop. In that many years, your current laptop will likely feel pretty old and laptops that are as good — or better — will likely be pretty cheap. If it’s a television, better television displays will be available at a lower price point. You’ll either want to upgrade to a newer model or you’ll be able to buy a new, just-as-good product for very cheap. You’ll only have to pay out-of-pocket if your device fails after the normal warranty period — in over two or three years for typical laptops purchased with a decent credit card. Save the money you would have spent on the warranty and put it towards a future upgrade. How Much Do Extended Warranties Cost? Let’s look at an example from a typical pushy retail outlet, Best Buy. We went to Best Buy’s website and found a pretty standard $600 Samsung laptop. This laptop comes with a one-year warranty period. If purchased with a fairly common credit card, you can easily get a two-year warranty period on this laptop without spending an additional penny. (Yes, such credit cards are available with no yearly fees.) During the check-out process, Best Buy tries to sell you a Geek Squad “Accidental Protection Plan.” To get an additional year of Best Buy’s extended warranty, you’d have to pay $324.98 for a “3-Year Accidental Protection Plan”. You’d basically be paying more than half the price of your laptop for an additional year of warranty — remember, the standard warranties would cover you anyway for the first two years. If this laptop did break sometime between two and three years from now, we wouldn’t be surprised if you could purchase a comparable laptop for about $325 anyway. And, if you don’t need to replace it, you’ve saved that money. Best Buy would object that this isn’t a standard extended warranty. It’s a supercharged warranty plan that will also provide coverage if you spill something on your laptop or drop it and break it. You just have to ask yourself a question. What are the odds that you’ll drop your laptop or spill something on it? They’re probably pretty low if you’re a typical human being. Is it worth spending more than half the price of the laptop just in case you’ll make an uncommon mistake? Probably not. There may be occasional exceptions to this — some Apple users swear by Apple’s AppleCare, for example — but you should generally avoid buying these things. There’s a reason stores are so pushy about extended warranties, and it’s not because they want to help protect you. It’s because they’re making lots of profit from these plans, and they’re making so much profit because they’re not a good deal for customers. Image Credit: Philip Taylor on Flickr     

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  • Bypass BIOS password set by faulty Toshiba firmware on Satellite A55 laptop?

    - by Brian
    How can the CMOS be cleared on the Toshiba Satellite A55-S1065? I have this 7 year old laptop that has been crippled by a glitch in its BIOS: 'A "Password =" prompt may be displayed when the computer is turned on, even though no power-on password has been set. If this happens, there is no password that will satisfy the password request. The computer will be unusable until this problem is resolved. [..] The occurrence of this problem on any particular computer is unpredictable -- it may never happen, but it could happen any time that the computer is turned on. [..] Toshiba will cover the cost of this repair under warranty until Dec 31, 2010.' -Toshiba As they stated, this machine is "unusable." The escape key does not bypass the prompt (nor does any other key), thus no operating system can be booted and no firmware updates can be installed. After doing some research, I found solutions that have been suggested for various Toshiba Satellite models afflicted by this glitch: "Make arrangements with a Toshiba Authorized Service Provider to have this problem resolved." -Toshiba (same link). Even prior to the expiration of Toshiba's support ("repair under warranty until Dec 31, 2010"), there have been reports that this solution is prohibitively expensive, labor charges accruing even when the laptop is still under warranty, and other reports that are generally discouraging: "They were unable to fix it and the guy who worked on it said he couldn’t find the jumpers on the motherboard to clear the BIOS. I paid $39 for my troubles and still have the password problem." - Steve. Since the costs of the repairs can now exceed the value of the hardware, it would seem this is a DIY solution, or a non-solution (i.e. the hardware is trash). Build a Toshiba parallel loopback by stripping and soldering the wires on a DB25 plug to connect connect these pins: 1-5-10, 2-11, 3-17, 4-12, 6-16, 7-13, 8-14, 9-15, 18-25. -CGSecurity. According to a list of supported models on pwcrack, this will likely not work for my Satellite A55-1065 (as well as many other models of similar age). -pwcrack Disconnect the laptop battery for an extended period of time. Doesn't work, laptop sat in a closet for several years without the battery connected and I forgot about the whole thing for awhile. The poor thing. Clear CMOS by setting the proper jumper setting or by removing the CMOS (RTC) battery, or by short circuiting a (hidden?) jumper that looks like a pair of solder marks -various sources for various Satellite models: Satellite A105: "you will see C88 clearly labeled right next the jack that the wireless card plugs into. There are two little solder squares (approx 1/16") at this location" -kerneltrap Satellite 1800: "Underneath the RAM there is black sticker, peel off the black sticker and you will reveal two little solder marks which are actually 'jumpers'. Very carefully hold a flat-head screwdriver touching both points and power on the unit briefly, effectively 'shorting' this circuit." -shadowfax2020 Satellite L300: "Short the B500 solder pads on the system board." -Lester Escobar Satellite A215: "Short the B500 solder pads on the system board." -fixya Clearing the CMOS could resolve the issue, but I cannot locate a jumper or a battery on this board. Nothing that looks remotely like a battery can be removed (everything is soldered). I have looked closely at the area around the memory and do not see any obvious solder pads that could be a secret jumper. Here are pictures (click for full resolution) : Where is the jumper (or solder pads) to short circuit and wipe the CMOS on this board? Possibly related questions: Remove Toshiba laptop BIOS password? Password Problem Toshiba Satellite..

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  • How do I connect my Windows XP laptop to the internet?

    - by rubysiddhi
    Hello fellow super users, The Past I have a Acer Travelmate 2300 laptop running Windows XP. 6 months ago I moved into a new apartment and got a new internet connection set up. After getting an internet connection installed in my apartment I reinstalled Windows XP and at the same time wiped my drive clean losing all the original Acer software and drivers. Once XP was reinstalled I had to find all the drivers again to get the Travelmate laptop connected to the internet. So, using my Vista laptop which was connected fine, I went to the Acer Travelmate Series drivers download page to download the necessary drivers. I transferred them to my Acer XP machine and installed them the best I could (there were no easy instructions so I just had to find all the executables and run them). I eventually got connected to the internet but not exactly in the way I had hoped for. The Present To be connected to the internet I need to have an Ethernet cord connecting my computer (via the Ethernet port) to my router. This is a problem since it defeats the purpose of having a Wireless LAN card in my Acer laptop. One of the programs I downloaded from the Acer Travelmate Series page was the Acer Wireless LAN Configuration Utility. This program allows me to see the current network I am connected to and all the available networks I could potentially connect to. It reminds me of XP's Wireless Network Connection window/utility where you can see all available wireless networks, refresh the network list and connect to one of the networks. I should mention that my ISP set up a security enabled wireless network with WPA. This network requires a network key if you want to connect to it. I guess my Vista computer has the network key entered into it already. The problem is that I do not know what the network key is. Now obviously you would say just contact my ISP to get the key. And I will but there is just one extra weird issue. I am able to connect to another unsecured wireless network in the Wireless Network Connection window/utility. I can be on it as long as my Ethernet cable is plugged in. So this is not really wireless is it? And this indicates that even if I do get that network key password from my ISP, I will only solve one of the two problems I have. I will only solve being able to get online as long as I am connected to my router via the Ethernet cable. The Main Questions So how do I enable my acer IPN2220 Wireless LAN Card so that I can use my Acer laptop from anywhere with in my apartment? Or should I first get the network key from my ISP to access my security enabled wireless network? And then deal with getting the acer IPN2220 Wireless LAN Card working? Hard & Learned VS Easy & Stupid Of course contacting the ISP would be easier. Have em just come in here and do there thing. The problem with that is that they do not speak English (yeah, im in Poland) and it'd be a hell of a time trying to understand what they are doing (uncomfortable looking over their shoulder). Also, I want to learn how to do this task myself so that I can fix the problem if it ever happens again. You know, be more self sufficient. I look forward to helpful replies. Thanks, Xaviour

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  • Prevent Cisco VPN from interrupting home networking

    - by jkohlhepp
    I just got a new laptop, and for the most part have left its settings alone. Today I was trying to get some sharing going between my desktop and the laptop. Both machines are connected to the same wireless network and both machines consider that network to be a Home network. Both are running Win7 Home Premium. It seems like my laptop is aware of my desktop on the network. It can ping it by IP or by computer name. When I go to Network from the laptop, I can see the desktop in the list of computers. However, my desktop cannot ping the laptop, nor can it see it within Network. My desktop has a Homegroup set up, but my laptop says "There is currently no homegroup on the network". I do have network discovery turned on for both machines. Why can my desktop not "talk" to my laptop but it works the other way around? Update: Disabling the Windows Firewall on the laptop somewhat fixes the problem. With it disabled, my desktop can ping my laptop, but still my laptop can't see the homegroup. Also, it can ping via hostname, which resolves to IPv6, but can't ping via the IPv4 address. Obviously I'd rather not leave my firewall disabled, so I need a more specific fix. Update 2: Aha! It is the Cisco VPN software I was running to connect to work computers. Once I disconnected and exited from that, the two PCs seemed to be talking normally and the homegroup was visible to the laptop. So now my question has morphed: how can I prevent Cisco VPN from interrupting my home networking?

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  • Prevent Windows from resizing all the apps on the desktop when switching monitors

    - by Greg Hewgill
    Short version: When moving my laptop and sleeping between using different monitors, all my open windows are crammed into the upper left corner as if they tried to fit on the laptop internal screen resolution. I plug in and switch to the external monitor before unlocking my session. Is there a way to prevent this automatic resizing? Longer version: I have a laptop that I move between two locations. I have one docking station, and the same kind of monitor configured for 1600x1200, in both locations. The internal laptop screen is awful so I don't use it. Location A: Docking station, monitor connected via DVI. Location B: No docking station, external monitor connected via VGA cable. In this location I have the laptop lid open for keyboard access but I don't use the laptop screen. When moving from Location A to Location B, the laptop wakes up from sleep, displaying the screen on the internal monitor. I switch to the external monitor display (using Fn+F8 on this laptop), and only after that do I unlock my session with my password. However, Windows has crammed all my nicely arranged windows into the upper left corner as if it were trying to fit them all on the laptop internal screen resolution. When moving from Location B to Location A, I have the laptop lid closed when using the docking station so Windows apparently concludes the screen resolution is 1600x1200 and doesn't resize any windows. The laptop is a Dell Latitude running Windows 7 Professional.

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  • Why does Ubuntu (and other ubuntu based distros like lubuntu and linux mint) randomly shutdown on my laptop?

    - by Imran
    I have a lenovo g555 laptop and whenever I try and boot a ubuntu based distro off a usb, it randomly shuts off my PC (Not like a normal shutdown with shutdown loading screen but a like a sudden hard power off). This problem occurs even if I have installed the distro on my harddrive. In the past I've been able to use the distro for 10 min or so before it would it would do this. Now with the latest distros, It randomly pwers off even before it has fully booted up. My hardware specs are on this website.

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  • How to manage two video cards on a laptop that runs Ubuntu 10.10?

    - by Marc-François Cochaux-Laberge
    I have a laptop with two video cards. One ATI and on integrated Intel. On Windows, I can choose which video card I want to use. For example, I use the Intel card for normal use and for gaming, I switch to my ATI card for better performance, but a shorter battery life. In Ubuntu 10.10, only the Intel driver is installed, the ATI driver for my card doesn't work at all and there's heat coming out of my computer all the time, like when I'm playing video games on Windows. I think both cards are active, but only the Intel one is usefull. How can I solve this by making sure Ubuntu is aware of the two video cards and by disabling my ATI. Or may be I am all wrong about this?

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  • Turn your laptop into a wireless Access Point with Windows 7!

    - by David Nudelman
    Windows 7 offers a very cool feature where you can connect multiple devices to any wired and wireless network connection (hotel, cable, 3G, UMTS, EDGE, WIFI, RJ45, Ethernet, etc.) by turning your own laptop into a wireless AP (Access Point) to relay those devices not directly connected to the internet. For this just enter these two commands to an elevated (right click on CMD.EXE, run as administrator): netsh wlan set hostednetwork mode=allow ssid=YOURFRIENDLYSSID key=SOMEPASSWORD netsh wlan start hostednetwork At this point, if Internet Connection Sharing (ICS) is setup, anyone can connect to your SoftAP (if they know the PWD of course) and the traffic will be sent through whatever adapter you want. You can actually bridge it across an entirely different adapter... or the same on a different Wifi LAN. A GUI to set this up can be downloaded for free here: http://www.connectify.me/

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  • Windows XP guest in Ubuntu VirtualBox OSE VM does not install driver to use host's HP laptop webcam.

    - by Guillermo Torres
    I recently created a virtual windows xp with Virtual Box OSE. The sound and video seem to be working just fine. However, it does not recognize the webcam which I use to video chat with yahoo messenger. I use Windows to have video chats with my daughters who live in another country. Since I did not want to go back to windows, I decided to try installing windows in a virtual machine. But when I tried using it yesterday, everything worked perfectly except for the webcam. I was not able to make the webcam work. I tried to download the drivers for it, but since my laptop is HP Pavilion g4-1287la, Core i3, none of the drivers I tried worked. I got the same error every time I tried to install them, something like: This driver cannot be installed in this machine

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  • How to manage two video cards on a laptop (ATI and Intel)?

    - by Marc-François Cochaux-Laberge
    I have a laptop with two video cards. One ATI and on integrated Intel. On Windows, I can choose which video card I want to use. For example, I use the Intel card for normal use and for gaming, I switch to my ATI card for better performance, but a shorter battery life. In Ubuntu 10.10, only the Intel driver is installed, the ATI driver for my card doesn't work at all and there's heat coming out of my computer all the time, like when I'm playing video games on Windows. I think both cards are active, but only the Intel one is usefull. How can I solve this by making sure Ubuntu is aware of the two video cards and by disabling my ATI. Or may be I am all wrong about this?

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  • New EFI Laptop: After restart, Ubuntu boots to black screen?

    - by Henson S
    So, I've got this new laptop (Acer Aspire 5560 15") that's doing a funny thing.. If I cold booth the machine, everything is great! I see the grub menu, and Ubuntu 12.04 loads just fine. If I reboot within Ubuntu, I see the BIOS screen, but then nothing. No grub menu, no hard drive activity except for just a blip. I noticed that when installing Ubuntu this time, I had to create an EFI boot partition -- something I'm not used to. And I'm guessing that it has something to do with the issue. Could be totally wrong. Any ideas?

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  • HTG Explains: Should You Shut Down, Sleep, or Hibernate Your Laptop?

    - by Chris Hoffman
    Computers can sleep, hibernate, or shut down. Sleep allows you to quickly resume using your laptop at the cost of some electricity. Hibernate is like shutting down your computer, but you can still resume working where you left off. There’s no right answer in all situations. Some people leave their computers running 24/7, while others shut down computers the moment they step away. Each of these options has its advantages and disadvantages. Image Credit: DeclanTM on Flickr 6 Ways Windows 8 Is More Secure Than Windows 7 HTG Explains: Why It’s Good That Your Computer’s RAM Is Full 10 Awesome Improvements For Desktop Users in Windows 8

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  • How to control fan speed and temperatures on Asus A8Js laptop running Ubuntu Server?

    - by Azeworai
    Hi, I have tried installing asusfan and lm-sensors but I'm unable to control my fans to cool my laptop down sufficiently. Currently it overheats at about 100 degrees celsius and my sensors output somehow does not have any fan information on it: jackson@OLYMPIA:~$ sensors acpitz-virtual-0 Adapter: Virtual device temp1: +69.0°C (crit = +110.0°C) coretemp-isa-0000 Adapter: ISA adapter Core 0: +66.0°C (high = +100.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) coretemp-isa-0001 Adapter: ISA adapter Core 1: +66.0°C (high = +100.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) I have checked my bios and there isn't any fan settings there. I can consistently overheat just by converting a video via Handbrake. I have ubuntu-desktop installed for a GUI. Is there a way for me to control my fans to start spinning before it reaches a critical temperature and kills itself?

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  • How to control fan speed and temperatures on Asus A8Js laptop?

    - by Azeworai
    Hi, I have tried installing asusfan and lm-sensors but I'm unable to control my fans to cool my laptop down sufficiently. Currently it overheats at about 100 degrees celsius and my sensors output somehow does not have any fan information on it: jackson@OLYMPIA:~$ sensors acpitz-virtual-0 Adapter: Virtual device temp1: +69.0°C (crit = +110.0°C) coretemp-isa-0000 Adapter: ISA adapter Core 0: +66.0°C (high = +100.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) coretemp-isa-0001 Adapter: ISA adapter Core 1: +66.0°C (high = +100.0°C, crit = +100.0°C) I have checked my bios and there isn't any fan settings there. I can consistently overheat just by converting a video via Handbrake. I have ubuntu-desktop installed for a GUI. Is there a way for me to control my fans to start spinning before it reaches a critical temperature and kills itself?

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