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  • Reverse Search Images Easily with the TinEye Client for Windows

    - by Asian Angel
    Are you a frequent user of TinEye and would like to integrate it into your favorite Windows system? Then get ready to enjoy Context Menu and App Window goodness with the TinEye Client for Windows. After you have downloaded the zip file, unzip it and run the setup file inside. Once the installation process has finished you will be asked if you would like to launch TinEye Client immediately or not. If not then you can access it later using the new shortcut added to the Start Menu. We chose to let the program launch automatically…this is what the main window looks like. For our test we decided to access the client via the Context Menu using a picture of Doc Brown’s DeLorean in hover conversion mode. HTG Explains: Understanding Routers, Switches, and Network Hardware How to Use Offline Files in Windows to Cache Your Networked Files Offline How to See What Web Sites Your Computer is Secretly Connecting To

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  • Google Updates Picasa Web Albums; Emphasis on Sharing and Showcasing

    - by ETC
    Google has dusted off the Picasa Web interface and updated it with an emphasis on highlighting your photos and the photos of those you’re interested in. The new interface gives you speedy access to all the new photos you’ve uploaded and all the photos your friends, family, and others you’re following are sharing. Mixed in with that are popular photos from talented photographers across the service. It’s a nice change from the previously dull web interface and a definite step towards capturing some of the social power photo sharing site Flickr wields. Hit up the link below to read more. Showcasing Photos From People You Care About [The Official Google Photos Blog] Latest Features How-To Geek ETC Learn To Adjust Contrast Like a Pro in Photoshop, GIMP, and Paint.NET Have You Ever Wondered How Your Operating System Got Its Name? Should You Delete Windows 7 Service Pack Backup Files to Save Space? What Can Super Mario Teach Us About Graphics Technology? Windows 7 Service Pack 1 is Released: But Should You Install It? How To Make Hundreds of Complex Photo Edits in Seconds With Photoshop Actions Add a “Textmate Style” Lightweight Text Editor with Dropbox Syncing to Chrome and Iron Is the Forcefield Really On or Not? [Star Wars Parody Video] Google Updates Picasa Web Albums; Emphasis on Sharing and Showcasing Uwall.tv Turns YouTube into a Video Jukebox Early Morning Sunrise at the Beach Wallpaper Data Networks Visualized via Light Paintings [Video]

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  • Star Trail Photos Taken from the International Space Station

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    While most people have seen a star trail photo or two, seeing a set of star trail photos taken from over 300 miles above the Earth’s surface is a treat. Courtesy of Astronaut and Expedition 31 Flight Engineer Don Pettit, the photos capture star trails from the vantage point of the International Space Station. He explains his technique: My star trail images are made by taking a time exposure of about 10 to 15 minutes. However, with modern digital cameras, 30 seconds is about the longest exposure possible, due to electronic detector noise effectively snowing out the image. To achieve the longer exposures I do what many amateur astronomers do. I take multiple 30-second exposures, then ‘stack’ them using imaging software, thus producing the longer exposure. Hit up the link below for the full Flickr set of the star trails. ISS Star Trails [via Smithsonian Magazine] HTG Explains: What Is RSS and How Can I Benefit From Using It? HTG Explains: Why You Only Have to Wipe a Disk Once to Erase It HTG Explains: Learn How Websites Are Tracking You Online

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  • The Science Behind Salty Airline Food

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    In this collection, Artist Signe Emma combines a scientific overview of the role salt plays in airline food with electron microscope scans of salt crystals arranged to look like the views from an airplane–a rather clever and visually stunning way to deliver the message. Attached to the collection is this explaination of why airlines load their snacks and meals with salt: White noise consists of a random collection of sounds at different frequencies and scientists have demonstrated that it is capable of diminishing the taste of salt. At low-pressure conditions, higher taste and odour thresholds of flavourings are generally observed. At 30.000 feet the cabin humidity drops by 15%, and the lowered air pressure forces bodily fluids upwards. With less humidity, people have less moisture in their throat, which slows the transport of odours to the brains smell and taste receptors. That means that if a meal should taste the same up in the air, as on ground it needs 30% of extra salt. To combat the double assault on our sense of taste, the airlines boost the salt content to compensate. For more neat microscope scans as high-altitude view photographs, hit up the link below. How to Play Classic Arcade Games On Your PC How to Use an Xbox 360 Controller On Your Windows PC Download the Official How-To Geek Trivia App for Windows 8

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  • What Controls Exposure? [Infographic]

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    This simple infographic showcases how your camera shutter speed, ISO, and aperture all work together to produce the photographic effect you’re looking for. The infographic is part of Exposure Guide’s Exposure 101 tutorial and, while the graphic can stand alone, we highly recommend checking out the full introductory guide at the link below. Exposure 101 [Exposure Guide] HTG Explains: How Antivirus Software Works HTG Explains: Why Deleted Files Can Be Recovered and How You Can Prevent It HTG Explains: What Are the Sys Rq, Scroll Lock, and Pause/Break Keys on My Keyboard?

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  • How do you change your screen's color temperature in Ubuntu?

    - by RPG Master
    I edit my photos on my laptop (yes, I know they have crap displays) and I recently had to replace the screen because the old one just randomly died. The old one had decent color reproduction by default, but this new one is VERY blue. After playing with the Gamma I've gotten it to be a bit better, but it's still pretty blue. So, my question is, how do I go about changing my laptop's display's color temperature? And I don't mean through something like the Red, Green, Blue sliders in the NVIDIA config menu. I'm talking about like adjusting in degrees, like editing a photo's white balance. EDIT: So now I've found Redshift and it's doing me pretty good. I thought it might be helpful if I out here the command I'm using. redshift -t 5000:5000 -g .5 By adding this to my start up commands I should be good. I'm still open to other suggestions, because I'd like something that actually edited my xorg.conf or something like that.

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  • Ask the Readers: How Do You Share Your Photos?

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    It’s easy to snap away and fill up a memory card, but not quite as easy to share your best pics with your friends and family. How do you get your pics from your camera to your friends’ monitors? This week we’re interested in hearing about your favorite photo sharing tools and techniques. What’s your workflow for getting your photos from your digital camera to the virtual desktops of friends around the globe? Sound off in the comments with your favorite resources, applications, and photo sharing tricks. Make sure to check in on Friday for the What You Said roundup to see how your fellow readers get the job done. 8 Deadly Commands You Should Never Run on Linux 14 Special Google Searches That Show Instant Answers How To Create a Customized Windows 7 Installation Disc With Integrated Updates

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  • Replacement for Picasa [closed]

    - by January
    Possible Duplicate: What is the best alternative to Picasa? I use Picasa not because it is a great photo manager -- it's not, the manager is "sort of OK" for my taste. However, it combines a passable photo manager with a good "quick and dirty" image editor. It has the basic functions like cropping, resizing, contrast and color adjustment, and the one great feature -- "I'm feeling lucky" button, that works in 90% of the cases. Also, from time to time, I use one or two of the effects (like saturation or sharpening). GIMP is great and I use it on a regular basis, but in most cases I just want to go quickly through the photographs of my kids birthday and make them more presentable without much fuss. I'm looking for a native, open source replacement, something that would not miss the editing capabilities of Picasa and would allow me to quickly go through a collection of photographs and make basic edits. A function similar to "I'm feeling lucky" (automatic adjustment of contrast, color and brightness) would be most welcome. EDIT: Yes, I have already tried a number of alternatives, if it is necessary I can produce a detailed list here, along with the problems I found. I'm posting that question because I hope to see a new name.

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  • From the Tips Box: Controlling Xbox Controllers in Windows, Keeping Your Computer Cool in the Summer, and a DIY Book Scanning Rig

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Once a week we round up some great reader tips from the tips box and reader comments, and share the with the rest of you. This week we’re looking at an alternate way to control Xbox controller in Windows, how to keep your computer cool in the summer heat, and how to build a power DIY book scanner. How to Use an Xbox 360 Controller On Your Windows PC Download the Official How-To Geek Trivia App for Windows 8 How to Banish Duplicate Photos with VisiPic

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  • Want to turn old Powerbook Mac into small form factor desktop

    - by Rob
    I've got an old powerbook g4. Battery is totally dead, as is the superdrive. I've looked into selling but it's worth less than it would cost to ship it safely. So I'm considering cracking it open and and taking it's parts and creating some kind of small form factor desktop, probably for the living room. I don't need an optical drive, I really just would like Mac OSX, without purchasing a Mac Mini. Anyone got any tips?

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  • Performing mechanical movements using computer

    - by Vi
    How to make a computer (in particular, my laptop) to perform some mechanical movements without buying anything $5, soldering things inside computer or creating big sophisticated circuits? Traditionally CD-ROM tray is used to make computer do some movement IRL by, for example, SSH command, but in laptop tray is one-shot (unless manually reloaded) and also not very comfortable [mis]usage. Some assistance circuits can be in use too, but not complex. For example, there is a little motor that can work on USB power. Devices in my computer: DVD-ROM tray: one-time push. USB power: continuous power to the motor or LEDS or relay that turns on something powerful. Audio card. 3 outputs (modprobe alsa model=test can set Mic and Line-in as additional output). One controllable DC output (microphone) that can power up LED and some electronic (may be even mechanic?) relay. Also with sophisticated additional circuiting can control a lot of devices with a good precision. Both input and output support. Probably the most useful object in computer for radio ham. Modem. Don't know about this much, it doesn't work because of hsfmodem crashes kernel if memory is = 1GB. May be it's "pick up" and "hang up" can turn on and off power taken from USB port? Video card. VGA port? S-Video port? Will them be useful? Backlight. Tunable, but probably unuseful. CardBus (or some) slot. Nothing interesting for the task probably (is it?). AC adapter and battery. Probably nothing programmable here. /* My AC adapter already have additional jacks to connect extra devics */ Keyboard. No use. Touchpad. Good sensor (synclient -m 1), but no output. Various LEDs inside laptop. Probably too weak and requires soldering. Fans inside laptop. Poor control over them, requires soldering and dangerous to tinker. HDD (internal and external) that can be spin down and up (hdparm -Y, cat /dev/ubb). But connecting anything serially with it's power line makes HDD underpowered... And too complex. Is something are missed? Any ideas how to use described components? Any other ideas? May be there are easily available /* in developing countries */ cheap devices like "enhanced multimeters" that are controllable from computer and can provide configurable output and measure current and other things? Things to aid pushing many physical buttons with computer. Isn't this a simple idea and implementation and a lot of use in good hands?

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  • Hardware recommendations / parts list for a modern, quiet ZFS NAS box - 2011-Feb edition [closed]

    - by dandv
    I want to build some really reliable storage for my data, and it seems that ZFS is the only filesystem at the moment that does live checksumming. That rules out DroboPro, so I'm looking to building a quiet ZFS NAS that would start with 4 2TB or larger hard drives. I'd like this system to be very reliable and relatively future-proof for 2-3 years, so I'm willing to invest some $$$ and buy higher end components. I did see questions here and on other forums about low-cost servers, but I'm not looking for those. I'd be super happy to go for an off-the-shelf solution, but I haven't found one that's quiet. I started doing the research (summarized on my wiki), but I realized that it just gets too complicated for what I know as a software dude, and I'm entering the analysis paralysis area. At this point, I'm basically looking for a parts list for a configuration that will work (and is modern), and I know there are folks around here who are way more competent than me. I've built computers and am comfortable assembling one and messing with *nix; I can follow guides; I just want to end the decision process for the hardware and software configuration. What I've researched so far (not that these are very modern components): Case: I think I've settled on the Antec Twelve Hundred case because it cools well, is quiet, and simply has 12 bays that allow elastic mounting. The SilverStone Raven is its counter-candidate, but I find its construction quite odd. For the PSU, I'm torn between Antec CP-850 and Nexus RX-8500, but I did this research more than a year ago. The Nexus has a very uniform power profile, and I'd rather not have the Antec spin up and down based on load. On the other hand, I'm not sure how often my file server will draw more than 400W under use. For the hard drives, I've read that WD Black drives are actually WD RE3 with a software setting changed. I'd also like to buy different drive types, not just 4 WDs. Recommendations? Right now I have a 2TB Hitachi Deskstar 7K300. For the motherboard, CPU and RAM I have no idea, other than the RAM must be ECC. I already asked a question here about ECC RAM, but I was misguided and was looking for a motherboard that would support USB 3.0 as well. I've learned to go with eSATA, or worry about USB later. Then there's the (liquid) cooling, Wi-Fi card, and FreeBSD vs. OpenSolaris Express. Lastly, I'm wondering if I can make this PC into a media server by adding a Blu-ray drive and a good sound card. But support for Blu-Ray is spotty on Linux, and I don't know if Windows 7 on VirtualBox would get sufficient hardware access to output HDMI or SPDIFF signals. (Running OpenSolaris virtualized is not an option because of the reliability risk.) Then there are HDCP concerns. Suggestions on that would be appreciated as well, but I don't want us to get sidetracked. A specific shopping list on the core components would be great, so I can start ordering, and in the meantime educate myself with regards to the other issues. Finally, I think this could become a great FAQ for those technically inclined to build their own ZFS server, but confused by the dizzying array of options out there, and I promise to compile the results and share my experience building and benchmarking the server.

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  • How to get Google Chrome on my TV for under $100

    - by pattern86
    How can I get the Google Chrome web browser on my TV for under $100? ($200 MAX) I have a TV with HDMI and component inputs (but no bluetooth so firmware modding is out.) I want the solution to work with bluetooth peripherals--I already have a wireless Apple keyboard and Magic Mouse. I don't want a laptop or a desktop computer, unless it's in the general form factor of an HTPC or Mac Mini. Is there a way to make this happen?

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  • What is the minimum delay between two consecutive RS232 frames?

    - by Lord Loh.
    I have been working on creating a UART on an FPGA. I can successfully transmit and receive single characters typed on PuTTY. However, when I set my FPGA to constantly write a large sequences of "A", sometimes I end up with a sequences of "@" or some other characters until I reset the FPGA a few times. I believe the UART on the computer looses track of the difference between the start bit and a zero. The delay between the two "A" is ~ 30us (measured with a logic analyzer) and the baud rate is 115200 8N1. Is there a minimum delay that must be maintained between two consecutive RS232 frames?

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  • Is there a peripheral that lets my computer monitor the connectivity of pairs of wires?

    - by raldi
    I've got a bunch of physical switches and circuits that act like switches (they're either connected to ground or they're just an open wire). Is there some sort of thing I can plug into my computer (ideally, via USB) that has a bunch of screw terminals, and I can attach wires to the screws and have the computer keep track of which circuits are closed and which are open? Bonus points if the device also lets the computer open and close switches, too. I don't even know what to google for.

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  • Ethernet/8P8C crimp contacts bent

    - by Fire Lancer
    (if anyone knows correct terminology please correct). Ive got a (fairly large) number of existing Ethernet cables that over the years many have got damaged connector clips, so got a crimp tool and some new connectors for them. However out of all 4 attempts I have tried, on crimping 2+ of the little copper contacts that bite into the wires have instead just bent to one side, and so gone between the gaps in in the crimp tool... Unless this really is me doing something wrong (what?) I am inclined to blame the hardware, but is this the crimper or the new connectors I got? I tried to take a picture, as you can just about see looking from the left 3rd, 6th, 7th and 8th pins didn't get pushed in, and so don't form a connector. Unfortunately my camera was barely able to focus on it and then this website converted it to a JPEG... Update: Connectors/Cable/Tools: The wires are stranded (looks about 6 and no evidence of being aluminum/not copper), and the pins(?) have 2 little flat spikes lengthways along the cables (I understand to dig into it, while solid core connectors would have like 2 plates designed to go around the core?). Crimper was http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013EXTKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (seemed to be highly rated, I already had tools for cutting/stripping). Update2: Picture of crimp "prongs" (?) Update3: Side picture of connector Update4: Comparison with old connector. The top (used) connector is one from a few years back (different tool and connectors), the thing that concerns me that it might not be the tool I need to replace is just how thin the pins are on the new one that maybe a tool could legitimately bend some into a gap rather than pushing them in fully? In fact I can move individual pins to the sides significantly with my fingernail, is that normal?

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  • Give me some idea : How do I match photographer?

    - by user231430
    I have photographer in my database such as PhotographerID, PhotographerName, JobArea, BestPhotography, FavoritePhotography. And I want to match some photographer from my database. The question that I will ask the user before matching photographer is.. Area or province that you want to hire a photographer? Type of photography? How do I match?

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  • Software or Photoshop plugins for professional photo album design

    - by Iain Fraser
    I am a graphic designer (among other things) and I'm used to doing magazine advertisements, brochures, posters and that sort of thing. Recently I was approached by a photographer who wants a graphic designer to produce wedding albums for him. I have already done a couple for him but I'm finding it hard to work by just arranging my layouts in Photoshop alone. It's very time consuming, but quite repetitive - especially when you're dealing with common page layouts. I know a lot of photographers use album design software to speed up the process a bit. What's the industry standard in terms of album design software?

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  • Adding EXIF Lens data for old or manual lenses (e.g "Lens Baby")

    - by dbr
    I have a Lens Baby Composer, which is an entirely mechanical lens (no electronics in it), so the camera body cannot determine what lens is attached.. So obviously the metadata does not contain the lens info.. Is there any way to manually set this metadata, so the photos don't show up as "Unknown Lens" in Aperture/Lightroom/etc It's a Canon 5D Mark II (so the native files are .cr2)

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  • Photo Management Software for OS X That Supports Multiple Library Locations

    - by Lance Rushing
    I'm looking at the possibility of changing our photo management software. Thinking about Aperture or Lightroom. And want to know if either supports: Having folders/libraries on separate harddrives/Volumes. Tolerates having network folders occasionally connected Snappy interface A solid enough piece of software as not to crash or behave weirdly. [ so the wife doesn't get stuck and have to call me ;) ] Background The wife is photographer and I'm the computer programmer. Our current setup is Picasa, with a "Recent/Working" folder on the local iMac harddrive, and "Archive" folders on NFS mounted Linux Server, Raid 5, for redundant and extra storage capacity. (the Linux server also syncs with Amazon's EC2) Picasa is doing OK, but I get annoyed when it doesn't do behave properly. Usually around issues when the Linux disk isn't mounted. And overall, I wish Picasa seemed a little more polished and snappier. Thanks, Lance

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  • Adding EXIF Lens data for manual lens (e.g "Lens Baby")

    - by dbr
    I have a Lens Baby Composer, which is an entirely mechanical lens (no electronics in it), so the camera body cannot determine what lens is attached.. So obviously the metadata does not contain the lens info.. Is there any way to manually set this metadata, so the photos don't show up as "Unknown Lens"? It's a Canon 5D Mark II (so the native files are .cr2), and I convert them to DNG with Lightroom

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  • Scanned JPEGs are large and slow to load - can they be optimized losslessly?

    - by Alistair Knock
    I have hundreds of JPEG photographs which were scanned about 5 years ago from negative using a Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IV. The dimensions are ~4500x3000, and the filesize is around 12Mb, compared to shots from a DSLR with dimensions of 3000x2300 and filesize of 2-4Mb (actually, these are the output from a RAW convertor). The filesize is obviously quite a big difference, but the issue that's bothering me is that the (perceived) loading time is at least 10 times slower. Is this size/speed discrepancy likely to be because the scanner software saved the JPEGs inefficiently / using an old compression format, or is it simply that the scanned negatives contain much more "detail" (in the form of grain/noise) than the digital images? If the former, is there a way to losslessly optimize them? I've tried re-exporting the scanned files to full size JPEG from my RAW software but the filesize is pretty much the same. Both files will have been saved at 100 quality.

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