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  • A script so that you don't forget your usb drive on a public computer

    - by Ava Gailliot
    So I have a problem because I'm an idiot. I seem to always leave my usb drives in public computers at school and the like. I unmount them and log off leaving them still in the pc, and of course I then lose my information and my drive which can be costly. Is there a small script somewhere that I can install to my drive that prompts me to take out my usb stick when I log off of a computer? Since this is mostly for use with public computers I can't put anything on my drive that will later need some sort of admin permissions. I guess if all else fails I'll probably put my drive on a lanyard and keep it around my wrist. lol. Does anyone else have this problem?

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  • Windows 8: 100% disk active time, no actual data transferred

    - by fingerbangpalateclick
    Occasionally, like several times an hour, my hard drive will appear to lock up: Task Manager will show 100% active time with read and write speeds of 0. I can still switch between open windows, but anything that requires a disk access will stall for around a minute until the hard disk starts working properly again. It happens at apparently random intervals, and only happens in Windows 8. Not 7, nor Linux. It is probably not a problem with the disk itself: This is a relatively new hard drive, and S.M.A.R.T. is showing no errors. Only happens in Windows 8: not any other OS that has used the same partition, or different partitions. So, what is going on? How can I fix this? Note: this is a different problem then this one: Extremely high disk activity without any real usage My task manager would look similar, but Average Response Time, Read Speed, and Write Speed would all be 0.

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  • Change The Windows 7 Start Orb the Easy Way

    - by Matthew Guay
    Want to make your Windows 7 PC even more unique and personalized?  Then check out this easy guide on how to change your start orb in Windows 7. Getting Started First, download the free Windows 7 Start Button Changer (link below), and extract the contents of the folder.  It contains the app along with a selection of alternate start button orbs you can try out.   Before changing the start button, we advise creating a system restore point in case anything goes wrong.  Enter System Restore in your Start menu search, and select “Create a restore point”. Please note:  We tested this on both the 32 bit and 64 bit editions of Windows 7, and didn’t encounter any problems or stability issues.  That said, it is always prudent to make a restore point just in case a problem did happen. Click the Create button… Then enter a name for the restore point, and click Create. Changing the Start Orb. Once this is finished, run the Windows 7 Start Button Changer as administrator by right-clicking on it and selecting “Run as administrator”.  Accept the UAC prompt that will appear. If you don’t run it as an administrator, you may see the following warning.  Click Quit, and then run again as administrator. You should now see the Windows 7 Start Button Changer.  On the left it shows what your current (default) start orb looks like inactive, when hovered over, and when selected.  Click the orb on the right to select a new start button. Here we browsed to the sample orbs folder, and selected one of them.  Let’s give Windows the Media Center orb for a start orb.  Click the orb you want, and then select open. When you click Open, your screen will momentarily freeze and your taskbar will disappear.  When it reappears, your computer will have gone from having the old, default Start orb style… …to your new, exciting Start orb!  Here it is default, and glowing when hovered over. Now, the Windows 7 Start Orb Changer will change, and show your new Start orb on the left side.  If you would like to revert to the default orb, simply click the folder icon to restore it.  Or, if you would like to change the orb again, restore the original first and then select a new one. The orbs don’t have to be round; here’s a fancy Windows 7 logo as the start button. The start orb change will work in the Aero and Aero basic (which Windows 7 Start uses) themes, but will not show up in the classic, Windows 2000 style themes.  Here’s how the new start button looks with the Aero Classic theme: There are tons of orbs available, including this cute smiley, so choose one that you like to make your computer uniquely yours. Conclusion This is a cute way to make your desktop unique, and can be a great way to make a truly personalized theme.  Let us know your favorite Start orb! Link Download the Windows 7 Start Button Changer Find more Start orbs at deviantART Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Change the Windows 7 or Vista Power Buttons to Shut Down/Sleep/HibernateQuick Tip: Change the Registered Owner in WindowsSpeed up Windows Vista Start Menu Search By Limiting ResultsWhy Does My Password Expire in Windows?Change Your Computer Name in Windows 7 or Vista TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Quickly Schedule Meetings With NeedtoMeet Share Flickr Photos On Facebook Automatically Are You Blocked On Gtalk? Find out Discover Latest Android Apps On AppBrain The Ultimate Guide For YouTube Lovers Will it Blend? iPad Edition

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  • System Issues and Major Malfuctions after Failed hibernation Exit

    - by Sarah Seguin
    I have a HP G71-340US that went into hibernation mode for a while and when I tried coming out of it, I got an error message: You're computer cannot come out if hibernation . Status: 0xc000009a Info: A fatal error occurred processing the restoration data. File: \hiberfil.sys Any information that was not saved before the computer went into hybernation will be lost enter=continue So I hit continue and it ran soooo super slow it. It was seriously crawling. Finally I gave up and turned it off manually (IE press and hold the button). It's been a week or two since then and EVERY SINGLE TIME I have tried to to do ANYTHING it takes forever. When I say forever, I literally mean takes 5-7 minutes to load the internet, then the page itself, then to click a link, so on so forth. Eventually everything just goes not responding and I have to give up (4-6 HOURS later). I also cannot access my thumb/jump drives once I've managed to load windows. I was going to try runing malware bytes incase of a virus, but it's windows explorer developes errors and goes not responding on me. Currently I'm running scan disk or check disk and like every file is coming back unreadable. I let it run the last 2 hours straight in chkdesk and I'm only at 6 percent with around 500+ errors and still going. Yes, I've taken logs of the errors via cell phone camera and patience. A week or two prior to this happening I had to change our the hard drive due to blunt force trama next to the mouse. OH! Running on Windows 7: ) And I've tried loading the computer in safe mode and it makes absolutely no difference. Any and all help would be appreciated. I really don't know what to do from here and I'm kind of freaking out. I've googled different part of the error and things that I've done/seen and there are so many different answers/topics that I thought it best to just post the questions.

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  • Disk drive disappear in Windows Explorer

    - by Stan
    OS: WinXP SP3 When pressing win+E or open Windows Explorer, under My Computer, usually there are several disk drives. But somehow they just disappeared. If I type c:\ in address bar, then the disk will re-appear in the tree though. How to get them back? Thanks.

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  • Use an Ubuntu Live CD to Securely Wipe Your PC’s Hard Drive

    - by Trevor Bekolay
    Deleting files or quickly formatting a drive isn’t enough for sensitive personal information. We’ll show you how to get rid of it for good using a Ubuntu Live CD. When you delete a file in Windows, Ubuntu, or any other operating system, it doesn’t actually destroy the data stored on your hard drive, it just marks that data as “deleted.” If you overwrite it later, then that data is generally unrecoverable, but if the operating system don’t happen to overwrite it, then your data is still stored on your hard drive, recoverable by anyone who has the right software. By securely delete files or entire hard drives, your data will be gone for good. Note: Modern hard drives are extremely sophisticated, as are the experts who recover data for a living. There is no guarantee that the methods covered in this article will make your data completely unrecoverable; however, they will make your data unrecoverable to the majority of recovery methods, and all methods that are readily available to the general public. Shred individual files Most of the data stored on your hard drive is harmless, and doesn’t reveal anything about you. If there are just a few files that you know you don’t want someone else to see, then the easiest way to get rid of them is a built-in Linux utility called shred. Open a terminal window by clicking on Applications at the top-left of the screen, then expanding the Accessories menu and clicking on Terminal. Navigate to the file that you want to delete using cd to change directories and ls to list the files and folders in the current directory. As an example, we’ve got a file called BankInfo.txt on a Windows NTFS-formatted hard drive. We want to delete it securely, so we’ll call shred by entering the following in the terminal window: shred <file> which is, in our example: shred BankInfo.txt Notice that our BankInfo.txt file still exists, even though we’ve shredded it. A quick look at the contents of BankInfo.txt make it obvious that the file has indeed been securely overwritten. We can use some command-line arguments to make shred delete the file from the hard drive as well. We can also be extra-careful about the shredding process by upping the number of times shred overwrites the original file. To do this, in the terminal, type in: shred –remove –iterations=<num> <file> By default, shred overwrites the file 25 times. We’ll double this, giving us the following command: shred –remove –iterations=50 BankInfo.txt BankInfo.txt has now been securely wiped on the physical disk, and also no longer shows up in the directory listing. Repeat this process for any sensitive files on your hard drive! Wipe entire hard drives If you’re disposing of an old hard drive, or giving it to someone else, then you might instead want to wipe your entire hard drive. shred can be invoked on hard drives, but on modern file systems, the shred process may be reversible. We’ll use the program wipe to securely delete all of the data on a hard drive. Unlike shred, wipe is not included in Ubuntu by default, so we have to install it. Open up the Synaptic Package Manager by clicking on System in the top-left corner of the screen, then expanding the Administration folder and clicking on Synaptic Package Manager. wipe is part of the Universe repository, which is not enabled by default. We’ll enable it by clicking on Settings > Repositories in the Synaptic Package Manager window. Check the checkbox next to “Community-maintained Open Source software (universe)”. Click Close. You’ll need to reload Synaptic’s package list. Click on the Reload button in the main Synaptic Package Manager window. Once the package list has been reloaded, the text over the search field will change to “Rebuilding search index”. Wait until it reads “Quick search,” and then type “wipe” into the search field. The wipe package should come up, along with some other packages that perform similar functions. Click on the checkbox to the left of the label “wipe” and select “Mark for Installation”. Click on the Apply button to start the installation process. Click the Apply button on the Summary window that pops up. Once the installation is done, click the Close button and close the Synaptic Package Manager window. Open a terminal window by clicking on Applications in the top-left of the screen, then Accessories > Terminal. You need to figure our the correct hard drive to wipe. If you wipe the wrong hard drive, that data will not be recoverable, so exercise caution! In the terminal window, type in: sudo fdisk -l A list of your hard drives will show up. A few factors will help you identify the right hard drive. One is the file system, found in the System column of  the list – Windows hard drives are usually formatted as NTFS (which shows up as HPFS/NTFS). Another good identifier is the size of the hard drive, which appears after its identifier (highlighted in the following screenshot). In our case, the hard drive we want to wipe is only around 1 GB large, and is formatted as NTFS. We make a note of the label found under the the Device column heading. If you have multiple partitions on this hard drive, then there will be more than one device in this list. The wipe developers recommend wiping each partition separately. To start the wiping process, type the following into the terminal: sudo wipe <device label> In our case, this is: sudo wipe /dev/sda1 Again, exercise caution – this is the point of no return! Your hard drive will be completely wiped. It may take some time to complete, depending on the size of the drive you’re wiping. Conclusion If you have sensitive information on your hard drive – and chances are you probably do – then it’s a good idea to securely delete sensitive files before you give away or dispose of your hard drive. The most secure way to delete your data is with a few swings of a hammer, but shred and wipe from a Ubuntu Live CD is a good alternative! Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Reset Your Ubuntu Password Easily from the Live CDScan a Windows PC for Viruses from a Ubuntu Live CDRecover Deleted Files on an NTFS Hard Drive from a Ubuntu Live CDCreate a Bootable Ubuntu 9.10 USB Flash DriveCreate a Bootable Ubuntu USB Flash Drive the Easy Way TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Office 2010 Product Guides Google Maps Place marks – Pizza, Guns or Strip Clubs Monitor Applications With Kiwi LocPDF is a Visual PDF Search Tool Download Free iPad Wallpapers at iPad Decor Get Your Delicious Bookmarks In Firefox’s Awesome Bar

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  • Set-and-forget Windows backup software with NAS-support?

    - by Evert
    I am looking for set-and-forget backup software for Windows (Vista & 7, and if possible XP/2003). The idea is that it runs in the background on the clients, and does its thing towards a network-share. In case the HDD of one of these clients spontaneously combusts, all I want to have to do is: replace the drive, insert a USB-stick, boot from it, and restore the machine. It should support drives which use [ICH]-RAID. What are my options here? It looks like WHS meets all the requirements, but I am curious about my other options here.

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  • How to let hard drive sleep in RAID1 configuration?

    - by Al Kepp
    Normally in Windows 7 a hard drive stops spinning when it is not used for a longer while. This can be configured in Windows and I use it on computers which are turned on 24/7 but not used much often. My problem is on a computer with Intel X79 chipset with an integrated RAID controller. There is Windows 7 installed on an SSD drive, and there is RAID1 array with two SATA HDD drives for data. Those SATA drives aren't used much so I'd like to let them sleep (i.e stop spinning). But they ignore settings in Windows. How to let them sleep when using RAID1? It seems to me that those drives are "unstoppable", they are spinning 24/7 even when they aren't used at all. Maybe they would behave normally if I used Windows-based software RAID, but I use hardware RAID controller. Is there a way to let them stop spinning and sleep after for example 3 or 5 hours of inactivity (i.e. the same way as they would behave in Windows without RAID)?

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  • Set-and-forget Windows backup software with NAS-support?

    - by Evert
    Hi all, I am looking for set-and-forget backup software for Windows (Vista & 7, and if possible XP/2003). The idea is that it runs in the background on the clients, and does its thing towards a network-share. In case the HDD of one of these clients spontaneously combusts, all I want to have to do is: replace the drive, insert a USB-stick, boot from it, and restore the machine. It should support drives which use [ICH]-RAID. What are my options here? It looks like WHS meets all the requirements, but I am curious about my other options here.

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  • Best way to create and restore a Drive Image with Windows 7? [closed]

    - by jasondavis
    Possible Duplicate: Want to create a system image I am about to build a new PC. I am a windows 7 user. For years now I have been wanting to install windows and all my favorite software, music, etc., and then make a drive IMAGE and be able to go in 6 months later or WHENEVER I want to start fresh and completely format my drives and restore my IMAGE and have all my settings, programs, etc be just5 like when I created the original image. I know there is many ways to do this but I have never done this 100% successfully and I have about a week to figure out how to do it perfectly for when I build my new PC. I have heard good things about using tried Acronis true image in the PAST for doing what I describe4, I tried using it but, but the newer versions are overly complex and don't even seem to work the way I hoped. I also see that Windows 7 has some sort of drive IMAGE creator itself as well. Does the newer Windows 7 image creator do what I am describing above? If it does do what I am asking for (complete drive image with windows, all programs and settings) saved to an IMAGE file that can easily be restored to ANY hard drive in the future? Please share your experiences, tips, ideas on how to achieve this the easiest and most reliable way please

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  • Deploying a Windows 7 image, which way is the fastest?

    - by MatF
    I captured an image of a basic Windows 7 installation with some modifications using imagex. Before the image was captured, I ran sysprep generalizing and selecting to enter OOBE after it's done. Which way would be the fastest to deploy that image again? Using imagex /apply. Or naming the image install.wim and put it in the source folder of a normal installation (on a bootable USB device), running a normal setup afterwards. Currently I have only tried the second approach. However I just found out about the imagex way and wondered if it would be faster. Or are the even more methods that would be better?

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  • Linux USB debug connection to LuminaryMicro evaluation board

    - by mikelong
    Hi, I am trying to connect a Stellaris LM3S8962 evaluation kit to a linux host machine. I am using the CodeSourcery G++ for the development toolchain. When I try to run a helloworld example the connection fails with this message: arm-stellaris-eabi-sprite: error: E104. I/O Error communicating with USB Device. arm-stellaris-eabi-sprite: waiting for GDB connection, to pass error along warning: Remote failure reply: E.fatal.E104. I/O Error communicating with USB Device. arm-stellaris-eabi-sprite: error: E002. Not initialized When I connect the evaluation board with the USB cable it seems the device is made available to the system: Mar 24 14:37:16 n6-ws2 kernel: usb 5-2: USB disconnect, address 5 Mar 24 14:37:18 n6-ws2 kernel: usb 5-2: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 6 Mar 24 14:37:19 n6-ws2 kernel: usb 5-2: configuration #1 chosen from 1 choice Also, it seems that I can connect in some way via the command line tool (but I do get some strange characters): [mlong@n6-ws2 bin]$ ./arm-stellaris-eabi-sprite -i CodeSourcery ARM Debug Sprite (Sourcery G++ 4.4-104) armusb: [speed=] ARMUSB device armusb:///?? - ?? (??) Does anyone have any suggestions I could try? Thanks a lot, Mike

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  • Boot From a USB Drive Even if your BIOS Won’t Let You

    - by Trevor Bekolay
    You’ve always got a trusty bootable USB flash drive with you to solve computer problems, but what if a PC’s BIOS won’t let you boot from USB? We’ll show you how to make a CD or floppy disk that will let you boot from your USB drive. This boot menu, like many created before USB drives became cheap and commonplace, does not include an option to boot from a USB drive. A piece of freeware called PLoP Boot Manager solves this problem, offering an image that can burned to a CD or put on a floppy disk, and enables you to boot to a variety of devices, including USB drives. Put PLoP on a CD PLoP comes as a zip file, which includes a variety of files. To put PLoP on a CD, you will need either plpbt.iso or plpbtnoemul.iso from that zip file. Either disc image should work on most computers, though if in doubt plpbtnoemul.iso should work “everywhere,” according to the readme included with PLoP Boot Manager. Burn plpbtnoemul.iso or plpbt.iso to a CD and then skip to the “booting PLoP Boot Manager” section. Put PLoP on a Floppy Disk If your computer is old enough to still have a floppy drive, then you will need to put the contents of the plpbt.img image file found in PLoP’s zip file on a floppy disk. To do this, we’ll use a freeware utility called RawWrite for Windows. We aren’t fortunate enough to have a floppy drive installed, but if you do it should be listed in the Floppy drive drop-down box. Select your floppy drive, then click on the “…” button and browse to plpbt.img. Press the Write button to write PLoP boot manager to your floppy disk. Booting PLoP Boot Manager To boot PLoP, you will need to have your CD or floppy drive boot with higher precedence than your hard drive. In many cases, especially with floppy disks, this is done by default. If the CD or floppy drive is not set to boot first, then you will need to access your BIOS’s boot menu, or the setup menu. The exact steps to do this vary depending on your BIOS – to get a detailed description of the process, search for your motherboard’s manual (or your laptop’s manual if you’re working with a laptop). In general, however, as the computer boots up, some important keyboard strokes are noted somewhere prominent on the screen. In our case, they are at the bottom of the screen. Press Escape to bring up the Boot Menu. Previously, we burned a CD with PLoP Boot Manager on it, so we will select the CD-ROM Drive option and hit Enter. If your BIOS does not have a Boot Menu, then you will need to access the Setup menu and change the boot order to give the floppy disk or CD-ROM Drive higher precedence than the hard drive. Usually this setting is found in the “Boot” or “Advanced” section of the Setup menu. If done correctly, PLoP Boot Manager will load up, giving a number of boot options. Highlight USB and press Enter. PLoP begins loading from the USB drive. Despite our BIOS not having the option, we’re now booting using the USB drive, which in our case holds an Ubuntu Live CD! This is a pretty geeky way to get your PC to boot from a USB…provided your computer still has a floppy drive. Of course if your BIOS won’t boot from a USB it probably has one…or you really need to update it. Download PLoP Boot Manager Download RawWrite for Windows Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Create a Bootable Ubuntu 9.10 USB Flash DriveReinstall Ubuntu Grub Bootloader After Windows Wipes it OutCreate a Bootable Ubuntu USB Flash Drive the Easy WayBuilding a New Computer – Part 3: Setting it UpInstall Windows XP on Your Pre-Installed Windows Vista Computer TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Office 2010 reviewed in depth by Ed Bott FoxClocks adds World Times in your Statusbar (Firefox) Have Fun Editing Photo Editing with Citrify Outlook Connector Upgrade Error Gadfly is a cool Twitter/Silverlight app Enable DreamScene in Windows 7

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  • Put one monitor of a dual monitor windows system into standby

    - by Psycogeek
    Standby not Disabled! When running 2 monitors on windows 7 or Windows XP, I would like to be able to put one of the monitors at a time into standby. The method can be manual. When running 2 monitors , the second monitor is not always needed, shutting off the monitors own power switch will turn off the monitor, that does work Ok. Problems with that are , the delay with the monitor logo at turn on, and the power switch is not very accessable, and the switch might not live forever turning it on and off so many times. Using disable methods like devcon, WIN-P and Display, causes all the windows to properly move to the other monitor. While that is what a person would want to happen so they can get hold of the windows, that is not what I want to happen, and some things on the other monitor have to be re-arranged after a re-enable. By putting it into standby mode, nothing changes other than the monitor going into standby. Disconnecting the DVI cable still can cause the system to (properly) shift all the windows over to the one monitor, just like any of the disable methods do. That makes a mess of the windows, and is so unacceptable, that I would prefer to leave the monitor on, wasting power and the hardware, when it could easily go into standby for some time. For both monitors I am using a "MonitorOff" program that puts both monitors into standby, but I can not find a utility that will put only ONE monitor into standby for the windows system. If someone comes along and suggests "ultramon" you must know for a fact that it will put One of either of the monitors into actual standby. And it does not really suit me to use ultramon, I tested it (it was nice) and I did not feel that it was a program I wanted. The 2 monitors are running off of an ATI 4890 card, they are both hooked up DVI-I, the OS is both Windows 7 (primary) and Windows XP. In addition it would also be interesting to have seperate standby activity timers, and follow mouse kind of standby changes, but any manuel method , shortcut, batch , tray, or gadget kind of operation would be a good start.

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  • How to create Windows Vista/Windows 7 Startup disk or Rescue disk or system restore points on a CD?

    - by goldenmean
    Hello, I have two laptops, one having Windows-Vista home premium and other one having Windows-7 professional. Both versions of OS are OEM installs(pre-installed when I bought the laptop) and I do not have the Windows Installation disks for them. usually the installation disks provide a repair option in case one needs to repair/rescue a improper windows installation. But since I dont have the installation disks, I want to create rescue disks/startup disks for these. My questions are : 1] How to create a system rescue disk/startup disk on a CD from these two versions of Windows? 2] Doesn't the system restore points which Vista/Windows-7 create, cannot be created on a CD disk instead of hard-disk? 3] If I have a manual backup of my windows registry, in which I have exported all the registry to a file and I have that file on a CD, how to restore that registry back to the windows installation which might not be booting up properly due to bad registry problem. EDIT: 4]Is there any way to use these system restore points directly during bootup of the laptop, if windows does cannot boot properly due to problem. First laptop is HP Pavillion dv6646 and second one is Sony VAIO VCPEE series. thank you. -AD

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  • Blank list of windows services

    - by Joe
    Recently when I open windows services (always as administrator) I get a blank list of services: When I try and click on one of the empty lines I get this "Script Error" message: This happens over and over again, after several times I restarted my computer. I can't pinpoint exactly when this started happening or if I made any specific changes to my computer at that time. Someone told my to try running scf /scannow as administrator, but when I try to do that the scan stops at 34% and I get the message: "Windows Resource Protection could not perform the requested operation." I am running Windows 7 Enterprise 64 bit, and I would really like to avoid reinstalling windows. Does anyone know how to fix this? Edit - Here is another attempt I made and some more information that might help: Following WhoIsRich's suggestion, I tried the command sfc /scannow /offbootdir=c:\ /offwindir=c:\windows. This gave the error message "The arguments passed to sfc are invalid. The offline windows directory specified points to the online system", and then I realized this command is meant to be run after booting from another system. Since I don't have my windows installation disk right now, I used my own system to create a recovery disk, and then restarted my computer and used the recovery disk to boot. I then ran the above command, and I got the following message: "Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them. Details are included in the CBS.log". I then restarted my computer and let it boot up normally. The problem with windows services persists, and the CBS.log file is a long log file with many entries, and I don't know if there is useful information in it, and if there is, how to find it.

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  • Installing Windows 7 over PXE, preferably with domain autojoin

    - by Ivan Vucica
    At an educational non-profit, I've inherited a previously set-up Windows domain that, after the first reinstall of the machines, we ended up not using by simply not joining machines back into the domain. Over last summer, before the annual reinstall for shipping machines to the summer school, I toyed with the idea of installing Windows 7 over network, instead of just imaging the machines. It took a bit longer than I expected to figure out the basics; honestly, I expected that Windows would be more friendly for PXE installation out of the box. What I'm interested in is best practices for installing Windows 7 over PXE with domain autojoin. I'd love it if the whole setup could optionally be hosted on a UNIX based system as well. I've had some success by preparing an ISO using Windows Deployment Kit, and loading the ISO into memory. This was needed since I wanted a menu, and I think I couldn't get PXELINUX to chainload into Windows' bootloader. Unfortunately, I couldn't figure out much about customization of the Windows setup in that timeframe nor could I get Samba to work properly; studying the stuff ended up being too lengthy, especially the portion where I edited a disk image on Windows and copied it outside. WDK didn't make things easier by mounting the disk image into RAM, and writing it in its entirety when done with it, making me a very sad boy. I've recently found a different approach, too, that appears to be closer to Microsoft's original idea for netboot deployment and does not involve ISOs. So my question boils down to the following. What exact approach do you use for netbooting Windows 7 setup? How can Windows 7 setup be best customized to be completely unattended, including installation on specific system partition and not destroying the data partition, creation of passworded admin and default user, choice of MAC-address-based hostname, and joining a domain? As much details as possible for everyone's future reference would be appreciated. WDS isn't a bad choice, but if a Linux-based install can be used, that'd be better.

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  • BIOS not detecting working SATA hard drive.

    - by Evan
    Some time ago my power supply died. It's a long story from then till now, but the important bit is that I ended up with a new hard drive and a new power supply. I tested to see if my original hard drive was still alive, and it booted and worked perfectly until I turned it off. When I started it again it would not boot. I bought new SATA cables, assuming that the one I had was not seating properly (it was cheap and wobbly), but no dice. Upon start-up I am presented with a message telling me to insert boot media into the selected drive or add a drive and restart. Neither the new or the old drive is detected by BIOS, my Vista install disk, or from my bootable Linux USB drive. When I remove all of the RAM the computer ceases outputting visual information, and upon reinstalling the ram and starting up again gives me a "failed overclock" error. So, does anyone have an idea as to what might be going on? I'm completely lost at this point.

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  • Why does Windows 7 have three system partitions?

    - by Ben
    I am using Windows 7, and I wanted to make a System image (using Windows 7), but Windows 7 checked three partitions as System (100 MB + C (install partition) + D (my partition for my files, all programs are installed at C)). I don't want to backup my D partition, but that is not really the point. I don't want Windows messing with my other partitions and making them system. Is there a way to limit Windows 7 just to partition C (install partition)? If there is no way to stop Windows from making other partitions system, can I at least delete the files that make partition D system? PS: All these three partitions are on one physical disk, partitions from other disks aren't treated as System. FACTS: desktop PC, no OEM partitions, I personally have installed Windows 7 (many times) on the C partition. Why is my D partition checked as System partition when I try to create a System Image (using Windows 7 Ultimate built in tool), even though Windows (and all the software) are installed on the C partition? Is there a way to make D "normal" or non-system partition? Here is a picture of how it looks like if I try to create a system image. Once again, why is D also a system partition?

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  • BIOS not detecting working SATA hard drive

    - by user28927
    Some time ago my power supply died. It's a long story from then till now, but the important bit is that I ended up with a new hard drive and a new power supply. I tested to see if my original hard drive was still alive, and it booted and worked perfectly until I turned it off. When I started it again it would not boot. I bought new SATA cables, assuming that the one I had was not seating properly (it was cheap and wobbly), but no dice. Upon start-up I am presented with a message telling me to insert boot media into the selected drive or add a drive and restart. Neither the new or the old drive is detected by BIOS, my Vista install disk, or from my bootable Linux USB drive. When I remove all of the RAM the computer ceases outputting visual information, and upon reinstalling the ram and starting up again gives me a "failed overclock" error. So, does anyone have an idea as to what might be going on? I'm completely lost at this point.

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  • How to remove Media Center from Windows 8

    - by Arabella
    I bought 2 Windows 8 upgrades, 1 for my PC and 1 for my notebook. I added Windows Media Center to my notebook using the free offer in November (side note: the key was emailed to me within 5 minutes, I see many people have been complaining that it takes a few days). Today I decided to add WMC to my PC as well, so I went onto the Microsoft website, same like last time, and I received the email within a few minutes. Once I added WMC, entered the key and the computer rebooted, my activation is now broken: This product key is already being used on another PC. Try a different key or buy a new one. After rereading the product key email, I realised that the WMC key was exactly the same as the one I had received in November for my notebook (I used the same email, i.e. my Microsoft account Outlook email, for both). I didn't think this would be a problem, as on Microsoft's feature pack page it states: ...is limited to five licenses per customer per promotion. So then I decided, I'll just remove WMC from my PC and go back to Windows 8 Pro. So I turned off the WMC feature, PC restarted, activation still broken because my key has been replaced. I then tried to activate it with my original Pro key. The error it gave was that this key cannot be used with this version of Windows, as it is now Windows 8 Pro with Media Center and not Windows 8 Pro anymore. I've searched a bit and it seems the only way to remove it is do a clean install. I tried the Windows 8 Downgrade Helper, which told me I was already running Win 8 Pro when I tried to downgrade, and that I was running Win 8 Pro with Media center when I tried the other option. To sum up: How do I remove Windows Media Center from Windows 8 Pro without having to do a clean install?

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  • Recover data from hard drive with partitions (but not most data) overwritten

    - by Macha
    I have a 500GB hard drive I've been keeping around to recover data from that I removed from a failing NAS drive that got sort of... erratic at the end. I finally got rid of the NAS when during a firmware update it removed the partition table. Fast forward to a week ago, when I was building a new PC, and a mixup resulted in me placing the hard drive in question in the new PC and installing Windows XP on the first 100GB. I'm presuming any data on that first 100GB is now gone, but for the rest of it, is there any way I can recover it at home, as professional data recovery is currently too expensive? I have a blank 1TB HDD if I can store any images of that hard drive on. The problem was definitely with the NAS and not the hard drive, as the hard drive had a successful install of Windows when mistakenly place in the new PC, and there were capacitors in the NAS's circuitry clearly broken. The data I want to recover (in order of priority) is: High: Some jpgs of family photos. Medium: Some RAW files. (There are also jpg versions of all of these) Low: Some mp3s, avis and ISOs, I can re-rip most of these if need be, but it'd be handy not to have to. (I don't need a backup lecture, and if you can hold it in from nagging Jeff Atwood for it, you can hold it in from nagging me for it) In short: The partition tables are gone and overwritten. The data is not overwritten, except for an amount equal to the size of a Windows XP SP3 installation.

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  • Access to CD/DVD Drive is Denied through Windows 7 Explorer (Permission Problem)

    - by Synetech inc.
    A while ago I started having trouble with my optical drives. Both of them keep showing up in Explorer as CD/DVD drives on boot, but as soon as I put a disc in either one, it suddenly turns into a hard-drive—“local disk” is displayed in the Type column, though the File System column remains UDF/CDFS. (I though that maybe it was a permission issue on the registry key in HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet..., but I’m not so certain because of the next test.) When I try to open a disc (of any type), I get an access denied error message. If I open an elevated command-prompt, I am able to access the files. Also, if I kill Explorer and run it from an elevated command-prompt (thus giving Explorer elevated permissions), then I can access the files from Explorer. I’ve tried uninstalling and reinstalling the devices without success. The security dialog indicates that there are none set for the drives (no owner and no permissions). I tried setting the owner, but am only able to do so if there is a disc in it (it complains if it is empty), but the settings do not stick (if I immediately open the security dialog after setting it, it is empty again). I tried setting permissions, but that gives an error. I’ve included a screencap-flowchart of the security dialog of one of the drives below. (Yes, I made sure that there are no upper- or lower-filters, and yes, I ran sfc. I also made sure that in the policy editor, “devices: restrict CD-ROM...” is not set.) Does anyone know what the owner and permissions are supposed to be for optical drives and how to reset them?

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  • Replacing Failing RAID 1 Drive

    - by mrduclaw
    I hope this is a simple question, but I simply don't know anything about RAID. Some time ago I received a machine that, as I understand it, has two drives in it under RAID 1 (or so that one drive is mirrored on the other and appears as just 1 drive to the OS). Recently, one of these drives has started marking a clicking noise and I would like to replace it. I believe the machine has a hardware RAID controller on the motherboard that handles the RAID stuff, but if it matters the Operating System is Windows XP 32-bit. Is the solution to my problem as simple as buying another drive that is of the same capacity and plugging it in where the clicking drive is currently? Or could I possibly lose everything if the drive that's clicking is the one being mirrored on to the other drive? Is there some menu I need to find before unhooking things? Any best practices out there? I'm sure I'm leaving out some required information, so please just tell me what I'm missing. Thanks!

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