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  • Wrong Sound Blaster's PCI ID within Windows

    - by pavian
    I own Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium, it was working with no problems under Linux or Windows 7. It's original PCI ID is 1102:000b but now I see different within MS Windows. BIOS setup: 1102:000b GNU/Linux: 1102:000b Windows 7: 1102:000d Windows 8: 1102:000d In last days I'm experimenting with IOMMU PCI passthrough in Xen and I tried to pass this device to virtual Windows 7 and 8. Here I found this problem. I don't know if this is just coincidence or reason of my problem but it's wrong even in physical system. Windows detects 1102:000d as a High Definition Audio sound device (I guess this name, I have localized Windows, but this is general name, the same was with Realtek HDA before drivers), it's playing but it's unstable (Windows speaker testing can crash that application) and I can't install Creative software. Used driver is hdaudio.sys. Booting in BIOS or UEFI mode doesn't change anything. Nor CMOS clean. Someone met the same problem.

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  • Firebox 1250e Core Failing?

    - by Noah
    We have 2 Firebox 1250e Core firewall boxes in our production environment, serving as an active and passive mode. A few months back, the active box was flashing a warning light, so our consultant removed it, and plugged it in to a test network. Everything appeared to be working fine, so he reloaded it into the production environment, and we didn't see any other issues. Fast forward to last week, and out network was constantly dropping connections over RDC, timing out, and performing as if there was a traffic issue. I turned off the production box and everything began to work fine immediately. At this point though, I'm not sure how to proceed. Should the box be completely replaced? Is there any recommended testing we could do to determine if there is a failure of some type with this device? Should we try upgrading the software on it? I know the environment isn't the issue, since the passive box (which is now the active one) is working fine. We'd like to have 2 in production though for safety failover purposes. I am not a network admin, but am hoping someone here might be able to provide some guidance.

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  • Monitor goes black for a few seconds

    - by privatehuff
    I have a Hanns G 28" monitor, Model # HG281D It has its issues (viewing angle sucks) but has been functional and solid, great for desktop stuff. Worked without any sign of any problems for 6-12 months. However, now the monitor "goes black" for about 2-3 seconds, almost like when you click "detect display" It does not turn off (power light does not go amber) The computer is completely unaffected and the video mode never changes when the picture returns. The computer is fully responsive and will keep playing music or taking my keypresses during the time I can't see anything. (it just happened and I kept typing, etc) It happens on multiple computers across several operating systems. (I have an 8-port iogear KVM switch that has several computers connected) But, it seems to happen only on certain computers. I have a hackintosh that does it, a windows 7 PC that does not, a lenovo laptop that does not, and my old ubuntu 8.10 box did not do it, but my new mint 8 box does do it. I've check the connections and tried changing out the power cable and the vga cable. Sometimes it won't happen for hours (or days) and sometimes it happens several times per hour. It was happening many months ago, did not happen for months, and has now started happening again. Does this make any sense? What could it be?

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  • Is ASUS P5K-V Comptatable with this Crucial M4 SSD?

    - by Owen Melbourne
    hope alls well, Upgrading my old pc which has an Asus P5K V Motherboard, and im looking to add an SSD to it. I've come across Crucials website which says these 2 products are available http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=49C6AB1FA5CA7304 which is this http://www.ebuyer.com/product/266526 hard drive I believe. Could somebody confirm that these should be compatable? Many thanks

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  • Recommendations for a JetDirect print server for USB 2.0 printers?

    - by eleven81
    I have been using some older HP JetDirect 300x print servers for a variety of parallel printers over the years. These things work great for every printer I have tried them with, including HP's, Dell's, and even a Mountbatten braille embosser! These have been a boon for printers whose internal network cards fail, but whose parallel ports continue working. I don't have to throw away the $500 printer that is one year and a week old, and can keep using it for many, many years. Now that very few printers are coming with parallel ports, but are coming solely with USB connections and network cards. When the network card fails but the printer is still usable, I want to continue using it on the network with a JetDirect card. In summary: Does anyone have any recommendations for JetDirect cards that will work as well with USB 2.0 printers of unspecified manufacturer that my old JetDirect 300x cards do?

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  • Tiny linux box with 2xGbLAN, WLAN and 10MB/s AES throughput?

    - by Nakedible
    I'd like to find a small linux box with the following specifications: Small (mini-ITX size is OK) Fanless Runs Debian At least two gigabit network interfaces WLAN that supports "host ap" with hostapd + mac80211 in AP mode Can encrypt AES at least 10 megabytes per second Total cost $300 or less Solutions from multiple parts also accepted - I can buy an external network card etc. and build the box myself if the components are available. If you don't know about the "host ap" thing, just suggest your solution, I'll find out if I can get that resolved. If I can't get all that, I can possibly skip the "runs Debian" part, and I can definitely skip the hostapd part if the box can be a wireless access point with multiple ESSIDs out of the box. Something like Asus RT-N16 is close - doesn't run Debian easily, and probably doesn't encrypt AES fast enough. Something like Zotac ZBOX HD-ID11 is also close - no idea which WLAN card it has and it lacks second gigabit interface, but otherwise nice.

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  • Troubleshooting: Monitor never turns on, system fans running, DVD-ROM does not open.

    - by Wesley
    Hi all, Here are my specs beforehand: ECS P4VXASD2+ (V5.0) motherboard FSB 533MHz Intel Pentium 4 2.40A GHz Prescott Socket 478 2x 256MB PC2100 DDR RAM, 2x 256MB PC133 SDRAM CoolMax 350W PSU DVD-ROM - will edit with brand & model 128MB ATi Radeon 9800 Pro AGP No hard drive So, I just put those parts together today and I tried to power it up, with the monitor connected to the Radeon 9800 in the AGP slot (mobo does not have VGA port). After turning it on, the CPU fan, graphics fan and system fan go on. However, the monitor remains in standby mode, despite being plugged in. Also, after pushing the button on the DVD-ROM drive, it does not open. I've used the DVD-ROM drive before with absolutely no issues. The graphics card was slightly buggy when I put it on another machine, which was left outside in winter weather for 3 months. (Still that computer's integrated graphics worked fine.) CMOS battery was replaced and jumpers are all set correctly. Now, I'm wondering whether the motherboard, CPU, PSU or GPU is the problem. What can I do to test which part is the problem? Just to clarify, I don't have a hard drive, so I usually boot Ubuntu from the disc drive. Anyways, thanks in advance!

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  • Small (Micro) 16GB USB flash drive

    - by cust0s
    I'm looking for a small 16GB USB flash drive, that's good looking, will stand the test of time and can be attached to a key ring. I don't want extra software (like that found on the SanDisk Micro Cruzer) and it needs to be compatible with Windows, Mac and Linux. Also, I'd rather pay a bit more than buying a cheap flash drive and then it crapping out on me.

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  • Are there any good soft keyboards?

    - by oo
    My office is right next to my daughter's room and my typing sometimes wakes her up. Are there any soft keyboards that anyone recommends that would not make as much sound as a regular keyboard when typing?

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  • Are These Parts compatible?

    - by ell
    I have never assembled a PC before, although I have taken an old one apart and replaced a few parts in others here and there so I have (very) limited experience. I have been looking to make a pc and here are the parts I might buy: Foxconn P45AL Intel P45 (Socket 775) DDR2 Motherboard (with onboard sound I believe) Gigabyte GeForce GTX 460 OC 768MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card Already have 2 1gb sticks of dual channel DDR2 memory Intel Core 2 Quad Q8400 LGA775 'Yorkfield' 2.66GHz 4MB-cache Processor Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB SATA-II 32MB Cache Hard Drive Antec Dark Fleet Series DF10 Gaming Enclosure – Black I already have monitor, mouse, keyboard and DVD/CD drive Akasa Freedom Power 1000W Modular Power Supply I have never done this before so feel free to laugh at me for getting something obvious wrong, forgetting a vital component etc. but is all of this compatible? And have I gone overkill on the PSU, if so, please recommend one. Thanks in advance, ell. EDIT: Added PSU which I forgot to mention EDIT: I would be using this to surf the internet, write e-mails, chat, word process, play games such as team fortress 2 & spring rts (at highest graphics hopefully), some 3d modelling in blender, some opengl programming, and image editing in GIMP.

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  • Have it fixed or buy a new one?

    - by Workshop Alex
    My dual-monitor system has just become a single-monitor system again when the older monitor decided it would be nice to just turn to black. It's a Samsung LCD monitor and is over three years old. Not sure if the warranty is still valid but I just wonder what option would me more efficient: 1) Have the monitor fixed for a small amount. 2) Buy a new monitor for a slightly bigger amount. When monitors were still expensive, I wouldn't doubt about this and would just have my monitor repaired. But prices are so low nowadays, (and repairs are expensive) that I wonder if it's worth the trouble... Of course, I'm in no hurry since I still have another monitor. It's just that I liked the dual-monitor setup. Solved! Just ordered a new monitor. A Samsumg Syncmaster T260HD 25,5". Much more than it would cost me if I just had my old one repaired but I noticed that this one has a build-in TV tuner, plus speakers. It's way more expensive than a repair, but it's worth the additional value it provides.

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  • Why my new GTX 660m's clock drops drastically after running few seconds

    - by trVoldemort
    I bought a Lenovo Y580 laptop few days ago, this model is equipped with GTX 660m graphics card. However, the game performance is unbelievably poor since it out from the box. I realized there is something wrong with this graphics card. I downloaded GPU-z, and did a simple test. And I was shocked by the fact that my GTX 660m graphics card is running at 135.0mhz core clock. (It should be 835mhz at least!) Even the integrated graphics card "Intel HD graphics 4000" can run at 650mhz. Further examining showed that in the first few seconds GTX 660m was actually running at 835mhz, however the core temperature quickly reached 90+°C and the clock (maybe) automatically drop to 135.0mhz. This is very strange. Anyone has any idea what's going on here?

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  • Instructions per cycle?

    - by Matt Simmons
    I've been learning a little bit more about how processors work, but I haven't been able to find a straight answer about instructions per cycle. For instance, I was under the impression that a four core CPU could execute four instructions per cycle, so a four core CPU running at 2Ghz would execute 8 billion operations per second. Is this the case? I'm sure it's oversimplifying things, but if there's a guide or something else I can use to set myself straight, I'm definitely open to ideas.

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  • Computer cannot detect hard disk

    - by Nrew
    Details: BIOS: AMI Bios, set primary master to Auto OS: Windows XP Sp2 Memory: 384 Mb Processor: Pentium 3 yeah this one is really very old. And some of the capacitors in the motherboard are already bulging. It detected the hdd yesterday when were trying to fix it and install xp. But today it cannot boot and said: Boot failure. What can you suggest that I would do to revive this old machine. What would be the problem, is it the hdd, the ide cable or the motherboard.

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  • Scanner Daily Duty Cycle

    - by Juanp
    I'm comfused with the concept of 'Daily Duty Cycle'. For example if I have a scanner that the spec is: PPM (pages per minute): 90 and DDC (Daily Duty Cycle): 800. I am interested in scanning ONLY 10 hours continuously, what would it be the best choice: 90 * 60 * 10 = 54.000 or (800 / 24) * 10 = 333 It is very different results. what would it be the best option?

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  • Scanner Daily Duty Cycle

    - by juanp
    I'm comfused with the concept of 'Daily Duty Cycle'. For example if I have a scanner that the spec is: PPM (pages per minute): 90 and DDC (Daily Duty Cycle): 800. It means that in one day it will be able to scan only 800 pages?

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  • Old notebook internal display randomly not recognized

    - by jfcfar
    I have an old Acer TM4001 notebook. If the laptop is powered-off, with the lid closed, when I power it on, it generally works. Then, without touching anything, if I reboot the computer the internal display wil not work anymore. To make it working again I need to shut down the pc, close and reopen the lid and then turn it on. If I close and reopen the lid if it is not working after power the pc on, it won't work. When the screen is working, closing and opening it has no effect (the data cable seems ok). The external monitor always works as expected: If the internal display is not detected, the external will be the main (and only) display. This is not OS-related. When the screen is not working I cannot see the POST. What could be the cause for this?

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  • Does it mean video card is broken?

    - by Sejanus
    Hello, I've just installed some sort of relatively old video card and now computer freezes while playing certain video games (Civilization 4, HOMM V). Some other video games with far better graphics works well (Dawn of War I). Note that "freezing" games runs nicely and smoothly for about 10-15 mins, no lag or any other indication that video card may be not good enough. And then PC suddenly freezes, nothing works but rebooting. The question is, is this a normal behavior of a video card which is simply "not good enough" for the games in question, or is there something broken? Card itself or motherboard or whatever? OS is Windows 7 if that matters, and I don't know exact videocard specs but that probably doesn't matter for this sort of question... thanks in advance!

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  • Decyphering Seagate drive model numbers?

    - by Stefan Lasiewski
    I'm comparing Seagate's Enterprise and Desktop drives for a variety of old and new servers. These servers come from different generations, so options like size (73GB, 2TB) and interface (SATA vs SAS 3.0Gbps vs SAS 6Gbps vs SCSI Ultra320) are widely variable. I'm trying to compare the sizes, speeds and interfaces, but I'm getting thrown off by different models. Also, their website is not the best. Does anyone know of a documented explanation of the Seagate model numbers? And is there a single spreadsheet which compares the features for all drives (or all 'Enterprise' drives?). Seagate drives have model numbers like this: Model ST3600057SS 6-Gb/s SAS 600 GB None at Cheetah® 15K Hard Drives Model ST373455LW Ultra320 SCSI 73.4 GB 68-Pin LW at Cheetah® 15K Hard Drives Model ST32000644NS SATA 3Gb/s 2 TB None at Constellation™ ES Hard Drives Model ST973452SS 6-Gb/s SAS 73 GB None Savvio® 15K Hard Drives Model ST9200011FS SATA 3Gb/s 200 GB Pulsar™ Solid State Drives I understand the model numbers read something like this: ST - SOMETHING1 - SIZE - SOMETHING2 - INTERFACE Where the fields mean something like this: ST : For 'Seagate'? 'Seagate Technoligies'? SOMETHING1 - This field has number, but I'm not sure what that represents. SIZE - Size in Gigabytes. This is a number like '73' or '300' or '2000' SOMETHING2 - This field also has a number, but I'm not sure what it means. INTERFACE - This field seems to indicate the Interface. 'SS' means SAS, 'FC' means Fibre Channel, but I don't see how to distinguish between 6Gbps SAS and 3Gbps SAS, or different SATA or FC speeds. I don't see a field which indicates the RPM (15K , 10K, 7.2K) etc. Is this part of the model number?

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  • Testing Firewire 800 port on MacBook Pro

    - by dtlussier
    I am having trouble getting my MacBook pro to mount an external Firewire hard drive. I am able to mount the disk no problem on other Macs, just not my machine. I haven't received any errors from my machine, and don't see anything related to the Firewire port in the logs. Are there good diagnostic tools for this type of problem that come with the Mac? other free alternatives ?

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  • Adding extra fan on my setup. please advice on proper Exhaust or Intake of Fan.

    - by Pennf0lio
    Hi, I modify my Computer case so that I can add more computer fan to make my computer cool this summer. I would need your thoughts how I can improve my idea and I'm open to all of your advices. Status: Fan Position (The blue circles are the fan's location) At the side I have to intake blowing fresh air at the motherboard and at the top and back I have Exhaust fan blowing out hot air. The computer fans will be powered by 12v adapter (recycled) so that my power supply wouldn't be overloaded. I need a practical advice, I don't want to spend to much on this. Thanks.

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  • Is it a good idea to have the operating system on a solid state drive?

    - by Kenji Kina
    There is something I don't quite understand. I know a SSD helps with OS load times, but I'm not sure if all this boost is only noticeable/interesting when booting, or gives an all around considerably better experience thereafter. I am interested in having a quick and responsive environment after booting, which leads me to think that it'd be better to spend the SSD capacity in my most used apps (and the page file? Another inside question) and not the OS itself. This, of course, means that I don't know just how much the OS reads/writes its files during normal usage. So, how good an idea is it to dump the whole 20GB+ of Windows 7 OS into the SSD (considering the hefty price per GB of SSD capacity) if I can put up with the usual hard disk boot times? Would I be missing on a lot if I didn't?

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