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Search found 8 results on 1 pages for 'reseat'.

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• PC in POST loop

  - by Antony Scott

  Hi, I have a custom built PC using a Gigabyte GA-EP35-DS3P motherboard with a Q6600 CPU. For the last 2 days it has got itself stuck into a POST loop. Saying that, I don't think it actually got in to the BIOS. It repeatedly lit up the LEDs and then not much more. Sometimes I could see the CPU fan twitch. Today I re-seated the DIMMs and it powered up straight away. Could this be a sign of an impending hardware failure? The PC is hooked up to a UPS, so I don't think it's a power spike or anything like that, as I have 2 other PCs on the same UPS and they're both fine. Yesterday, the first time this happened, I was getting a message which I think said "Scanning BIOS image on hard drive". I've been building and using PCs for well over 25 years and that's a new one on me! I don't think it's an over heating problem, as when the PC does finally boot up the CPU is running at 35-40C. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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• Chrome OS is missing or damaged

  - by Ken

  My Google Chrome CR-48 started flaking out/rebooting and finally this message.  This post solved the problem quite easily. http://cr-48.wikispaces.com/Reseat+SSD+Cable Two hints: 1) you need to pull off the rubber feet to get at some screws. 2) the real problem is the little white clip under the cable.  Don’t worry about reseating anything, Just push the cable back on and the little white clip back up to snap in place and hold the cable.

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• Dell Inspiron/Windows Vista sleep/hibernate issue

  - by sarge

  When I hit the sleep button in Windows the computer looks like it's going into Sleep mode but a few seconds later it's restarted, and stops with this error message: internal hard disk drive not found To resolve this issue, try to reseat the drive. No bootable devices--strike F1 to retry boot, F2 for setup utility Press F5 to run onboard diagnostics. The computer is running Windows Vista (SP2) and I have installed all available Windows Updates and the latest manufacturer drivers. I have already tried to reseated the drive, ran the onboard diagnostics and there were no errors. I have changed the power settings for all devices where it's available so that they are not allowed to wake up the computer. Any ideas?

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• EMC CX3-10c Fault Condition won;t clear

  - by ITGuy24

  We have an old CX3-10c from Dell that had both Standby Power Supplies (SPS) fail. This obviously caused a fault on the system and disabled the cache. We have replaced the SPS's and they test fine as do all other components. Problem is there is still a fault on the "Enclosure SPE [SPE3]" despite all the component in the enclosure showing as good. I was on the line with Dell Gold support for 3 hours yesterday, they have had me restart the SPs multiple times, as well as reseat the power supplies, even shutdown the system completely and power it back on. All to no avail. Fault remains and cache cannot be re-enabled so long as the Fault is present. Any suggestions on clearing this erroneous fault?

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• Dell PE2950 - slow IO rates for writing and reading locally

  - by OrenM

  I'm having a serious issue with dell server PE2950. The server has really slow IO rates, so slow that I'm not able to use it anymore I tried few things to solve this: changing disks to new disks (configured them as raid1) changing perc card + perc cables reinstalling the OS of course, had to cause of changing of disks, centos 5.5 x64bit firmware update to everything virtual disks policy: No Read Ahead,Write Back, disk cache policy disabled. openmanage doesn't alert about anything, also i ran dell's diag tests, everything passed, also dell didn't see anything in deset log. dell offered to reseat everything, including the cpu, we did that as well, still io rates are slow I have several PE2950 servers, and I never had such a thing with any of those. All have similar or exact hardware as this one, all configured the same, with the same os centos 5.5 x64, same disks, same raid, same policy. Just for comparison: the problematic PE2950 server: [root@bad ~]# time sh -c "dd if=/dev/zero of=/tmp/ddfile bs=8k count=200000 && sync" 200000+0 records in 200000+0 records out 1638400000 bytes (1.6 GB) copied, 27.7946 seconds, 58.9 MB/s real 0m33.968s user 0m0.531s sys 0m26.000s good PE2950 server (with the exact same hardware): [root@good ~]# time sh -c "dd if=/dev/zero of=/tmp/ddfile bs=8k count=200000 && sync" 200000+0 records in 200000+0 records out 1638400000 bytes (1.6 GB) copied, 3.19999 seconds, 512 MB/s real 0m7.694s user 0m0.053s sys 0m4.057s Hopefully you will have an idea what can cause the problem.

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• Motherboard running rather hot while gaming

  - by I take Drukqs

  Case: Antec 1200 Mobo: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU: Intel i7 950 (stock cooler) GPU: EVGA GeForce 570 GTX RAM: 2x 2 GB (4 GB total) DDR3 dual-channel Corsair OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit This is my first build and it's brand new. I had no problems putting it all together in a few hours one evening and I consider myself to be pretty good with computers. Not to brag or anything like that! Just saying I've been fiddling with them since I was in diapers and I have a good amount of experience under my belt, just not with certain things yet. Recently while playing many of the latest games maxed out without a hitch my motherboard has been running hot and like anyone who's ever built a computer it scares the life out of me. I checked HWMonitor and saw that my motherboard sometimes reached temperatures of around 52 - 78c (the number 78 obviously being what's scaring me). I was wondering if such a temperature is normal and if not what the problem could be. Air flow in my case is phenomenal and besides having to ship back a faulty GPU and reseat my CPU my first build has been a very large success which I am enjoying tremendously. There is literally almost no dust in my case due to it being very new as previously mentioned and my RAM sticks are in the correct slots for dual-channel mode. My cable management is pretty great in my opinion with only cables from my PSU lingering in the bottom of the case. At any given opportunity I ran my cables behind my mobo. Air flow should definitely not be a problem because my CPU only goes up to about 60c and my GPU only goes up to about 80c. Thank you very much in advance.

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• Computer is dying--what should I be looking for?

  - by Will

  Okay, I'm a bit knowledgeable with pooters and such, but i'm confused. My computer is dying slowly, and I'm not sure what part is causing this. Computer details: Vista, dell machine, intel Q6600, 2.4 Core Duo (quad core), standard memory and drive (unknown manufacturer). Symptoms: I would best describe the symptoms as memory corruption. After a couple days on, I start getting applications crashing or failing to open for a lack of "resources". Sounds are corrupted. Onscreen text gets corrupted; the characters of text are garbled, not the pixels on the screen. Video memory seems untouched as I haven't seen any misplaced pixels. Recently I've lost files on disk. I've also experienced errors reporting a supposed lack of disk space, even though I have fifty gigs free. There was one point where I couldn't get to the POST when booting up. After I cleaned everything (see next) this hasn't happened. Diagnostic steps: First thing I did was clean the case. There was a lot of dust buildup on heatsinks, so I cleaned all that up. No help. Next, I disconnected and reconnected everything, from power cables to memory (did not reseat cpu). No change. Last, I ran the standard vista memory diagnostics and ran checkdisk. Both reported no errors found. I have not run any POST tests, now that I think about it. I'm at a loss at this point. Disk appears fine, memory too. I'd expect motherboard issues to result in the thing not booting up, yet it does every time. What should I be looking at? What more can I do?

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• Graphics card artifacting

  - by White Phoenix

  This is my current build: EVGA X58 (first generation) motherboard Intel i7 965 @ stock clocks 3x 2GB DDR3-1600 Corsair RAM at stock timings and voltages Corsair AX750 80 Plus Gold PSU 1 Optical Drive 1 Seagate 7200.10 500 GB drive 2x Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB drives OCZ Vertex 1 60 GB EVGA GTX 460 Antec 1200 case HT-Omega Striker 7.1 Sound Card Windows 7 32-bit Professional (PAE Enabled) My graphics card started artifacting while I was playing a game. It artifacted, the display blinked, then I got an NVIDIA driver has crashed and recovered message. Kept going, more artifacts, another crash, but this time my display blanked out and I couldn't do anything. Restarted my computer - artifacting is in the BIOS - got to Windows 7 but it BSOD'd before I could even log in. I restarted the computer again - artifacts cleared themselves out and I managed to get to Win7, but it soon started blinking in and out and artifacting again. Checked the card temps and they're well within range. (50 idle, 70 full load) The ambient temperature here is about 80-85F with high humidity. Tried Safe Mode and it still froze up/BSOD'd. Already tried the following to fix this problem: - Reseat the graphics card and swapped in a different slot. - Removed cover on card and sprayed with compressed air to clean it out. - Swapped around memory and/or went with only using one stick at a time. - Underclocked card I called EVGA Tech Support and they said that the voltage on the 12V rail of my Corsair AX750 PSU was on the high end of the "acceptable" range (12.4V, highest within acceptable range is 12.6V - optimal is obviously 12V). They gave me an RMA number anyway, but I want to get a second opinion from you all before I send this thing off, as shipping from where I live to EVGA is kind of pricey. This PSU is only 6 months old. So that I don't have to play RMA tag, which case would be most likely? I'm strapped for cash at the moment so I want to reduce the amount of RMAs I have to do since shipping is expensive here. Is there any surefire way to test to see if it's really the graphics card or the PSU? I tried unplugging any devices that were connected to the 12V rail (except for my SSD and graphics card) as I do have 3 mechanical hard drives, but the voltage for that rail didn't drop (it remained at 12.4V). I'm fairly sure it isn't the drivers since I'm getting the artifacting at the BIOS too. Right now I'm back in Windows 7 but I don't know for how long until it messes up again. Any ideas?

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