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• Building new computer, turns on, but no post

  - by addybojangles

  Pardon my ignorance here, finally decided to put together a computer and egads. I purchased a new motherboard, power supply, processor, video card and memory. ASUS M4A79XTD EVO AM3 AMD 790X ATX AMD Motherboard OCZ Fatal1ty OCZ550FTY 550W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V SLI Ready 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor XFX HD-577A-ZNFC Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ (originally had links for you guys, but I lack the rep, sorry!!) And I've got it all in the tower. I put in power supply, installed processor on motherboard, installed heatsink, put in ram, and I am using an older IDE hard disk. When I start the computer, the monitor tells me "check signal cable." As far as I can tell, the heatsink on the processor is spinning, the power supply is on (obviously), and the green LED on the motherboard is on. I originally only had the bigger output plugged in to the motherboard (what I saw in a YouTube vid as well as the mobo instructions), but after doing some research, it said plug in the other ATX power supply. Which I did. And trying to power the computer results in nothing. No beeps on startup, no post, anyone have any ideas? Your ideas and help is greatly appreciated.

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• Wifi Drops Connections with WPA2-PSK

  - by graf_ignotiev

  I run a small computer lab made up of 10 computers of identical hardware and software (Dell Latitudes with Windows 7 x64 Enterprise) and I use a ZyWALL 2WG as a router/firewall. Nine of the computers connect to the router over wifi using WPA2-PSK encryption while the last one is connected by ethernet cable. I'm having a problem where any computer connected to the wi-fi occasionally drops off the network (it cannot be pinged and the client cannot ping the gateway). It only happens on the wifi side and only when the encryption is WPA2-PSK or WPA-PSK. I tried using another router with a different make and model and had no problems. Thinking it could be a software error, I reset the router to factory defaults and installed the newest firmware (V4.04(AQI.8) | 04/09/2010), but still have the problem. The 802.1X log gives the following error User logout because of user disassociation. with this note WPA2-PSK:00242c582ece:logout where 00242c582ece is the mac address of the device. At this point I'm out of things to try and leads to follow. It looks like this user had the same or similar problem, but none of those proposed solutions work for me.

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• Fedora-13 not detecting USB HDD enclosure (with HDD)

  - by Ramy

  I recently purchased this enclosure: http://www.amazon.com/Inland-2-5-Inc.../dp/B003SZ2Y12 and this HDD: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barrac...3811667&sr=8-1 Now, I let my brother in law use the enclosure with his 160GB disk to back some stuff up. He then gave me that disk in my enclosure and I backed up my computer and my fiances computer. So...obviously, i had no problem mounting that disk. I plan on keeping this disk as my "natural disaster backup" (in case my apartment building burns down, i still have that disk with my stuff backed up). I want to use the 1.5T disk as my regular/more frequent backup device, but it doesn't seem to be mounting to my F-13 machine. I searched through this forum and found someone advising to run the following: # mount -t vfat /dev/sda1 /mnt this is the output i get when I run that: mount: /dev/sda1 already mounted or /mnt busy mount: according to mtab, /dev/sda1 is mounted on /boot Thing is, shouldn't this disk automatically mount just like the LAST disk in the same enclosure with the same USB cable and power supply? Any help would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!

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• Network cabling with multiple patch panels?

  - by dannymcc

  I am in the very early stages of planning a network cabling upgrade in our office, mainly to upgrade the old cables from Cat5 to either 5e or 6. I am also planning on upgrading all of our 10/100 switches to 10/100/1000 switches. I would like to have three small wall mounted cabinets spread around the building, each with a patch panel and switch. These would all lead back to our server room. The question is; should I have two patch panels in each wall cabinet, one with 24 or 48 ports that are connected to a matching patch panel in the server room. The second patch panel would then link to each device in that cabinets area. Then I wouldn't put a switch in the small cabinets. All switching would be done in the server room. Or, should I have one main cable from the server room to each of the cabinets - plugged straight into the switch and the patch panel is for devices in the cabinets area? I hope that makes sense!

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• Put one monitor of a dual monitor windows system into standby

  - by Psycogeek

  Standby not Disabled! When running 2 monitors on windows 7 or Windows XP, I would like to be able to put one of the monitors at a time into standby. The method can be manual. When running 2 monitors , the second monitor is not always needed, shutting off the monitors own power switch will turn off the monitor, that does work Ok. Problems with that are , the delay with the monitor logo at turn on, and the power switch is not very accessable, and the switch might not live forever turning it on and off so many times. Using disable methods like devcon, WIN-P and Display, causes all the windows to properly move to the other monitor. While that is what a person would want to happen so they can get hold of the windows, that is not what I want to happen, and some things on the other monitor have to be re-arranged after a re-enable. By putting it into standby mode, nothing changes other than the monitor going into standby. Disconnecting the DVI cable still can cause the system to (properly) shift all the windows over to the one monitor, just like any of the disable methods do. That makes a mess of the windows, and is so unacceptable, that I would prefer to leave the monitor on, wasting power and the hardware, when it could easily go into standby for some time. For both monitors I am using a "MonitorOff" program that puts both monitors into standby, but I can not find a utility that will put only ONE monitor into standby for the windows system. If someone comes along and suggests "ultramon" you must know for a fact that it will put One of either of the monitors into actual standby. And it does not really suit me to use ultramon, I tested it (it was nice) and I did not feel that it was a program I wanted. The 2 monitors are running off of an ATI 4890 card, they are both hooked up DVI-I, the OS is both Windows 7 (primary) and Windows XP. In addition it would also be interesting to have seperate standby activity timers, and follow mouse kind of standby changes, but any manuel method , shortcut, batch , tray, or gadget kind of operation would be a good start.

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• Computer speakers receive radio station signal

  - by squircle

  I have a set of Logitech 5.1 speakers where each speaker and the source plug into the subwoofer. I'm using a Griffin Firewave with output from my MacBook Pro, and output from my custom-built desktop with a switch in the middle (built it myself out of an old Belkin A/B parallel switch). Recently, I've noticed that I can hear a local Punjabi radio station being picked up by my speakers, and the volume of this interference increases as I increase the volume of the speakers. I'm fairly sure that this radio station is at the low-end of the FM spectrum, below 90MHz (or it may be at the high end, above 105MHz, my memory isn't infallible). It gets quite annoying as I can't put my audio very loud without the interference. I've tried to put a ferrite core on the input cable just before the 3.5mm jacks plug into the subwoofer. I don't know if putting the same core around all three of the cables (green, black, orange) would negate the effects, but I'm assuming not. There has been no change. Is there any reason why this would be happening? I'm assuming the interference is coming somewhere between the FireWave and the subwoofer, because the noise gets amplified with volume increases. If anybody has any suggestions, I'd be grateful!

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• Smart Array P400 battery failure

  - by RobIII

  The P400 Smart Array controller in my HP DL380G5 is indicating: Battery Status: Failed, Replace Battery 1 in the System Management Homepage. Also the IML indicates: POST Error: 1794-Drive Array - Array Accelerator Battery Charge Low I do have several replacement batteries (actually, several controllers including batteries) lying around at work but never had to actually replace one. I am wondering if the battery replacement (swap) could be done hot or if I need to take down my server to do the battery replacement. I have replaced other spare parts like fans and drives before and all those can be replaced hot. I just don't know about the battery of the P400 Smart Array controller. Any help would be appreciated. EDIT1 For those interested: straight from the horse's mouth: With thanks to Frands Hansen pointing it out here. EDIT2 In the end I did just power down, to be on the safe side and because the manual says so, and replace the battery. Couldn't be easier. Unplugged the old one of the end of the cable (not the end connected to the controller) and reconnected a spare one. The replaced battery is now in the server for about an hour and currently (still) recharging. I'm assuming all will end wel.

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• Intermittent "Lost connection to MySQL server at 'reading initial communication packet'"

  - by db2

  Our web environment consists of two servers. Web front-end. Dell PowerEdge R610, RHEL 5.5, Apache 2.2.17, php 5.2.14. Database server. Dell PowerEdge R710, Windows 2008 R2 Standard x64, MySQL 5.5.11-log x64. Normally these two work perfectly fine together. However, when I try to get them talking via a dedicated LAN on their secondary NICs (each machine has four of them), things get flaky. I have NIC #2 on both machines configured on the 172.16.1.0/24 subnet, with no gateway or DNS servers (obviously, since it's just those two systems), and I put the private IP address of each machine into the hosts file of the other. The routing tables on both machines look okay after I do this. I've tried this with both a crossover cable draped directly between the two NICs, and also via a dedicated vlan on the switch in the rack. In either case, I get intermittent connection problems. It's a fairly small percentage of connections that fail, but it's enough to cause a significant problem, and I have to switch back to the main network connection, which will contend with all the other traffic and hosts on the switch. The full error message that appears in the application log: SQLSTATE[HY000] [2013] Lost connection to MySQL server at 'reading initial communication packet', system error: 110 Am I doing something really dumb that's causing this to not work properly? Anything I can check in MySQL that would explain why it's failing to connect occasionally?

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• How to increase wifi speed for laptops

  - by sagar

  Now, Let me explain the situation. I am having a query regarding Wi-Fi network. I am having PC & laptop. I requested my Wi-Fi providers that I want connection in my PC. So that - Wi-Fi provider set up an Antenna on my building Terrace - They joined a cable to pc & that Antenna. ( I think using RJ45 connector ) - The reason behind this - my does not have a built in Wi-Fi adapter. Now - almost laptops have built in Wi-Fi. Now - On terrace there is Wi-Fi with superb speed. But on my flat - Wi-fi comes with low speed. So, when ever I use internet on my pc - it has great speed - but my laptop works with low speed. The reason behind this - PC is catching wifi from terrace & laptop is catching the wifi from it's own place. Now, My question is something like this. Can we place an antenna or something like that & connect it to laptop for better wifi speed? ( I am not technical person - Please add comment for down vote - if any ) ( Please add comment for more explanation of my Problem ) Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge. Sagar

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• I must clear my cmos to be able to boot

  - by Fredou

  I have this Asus p7p55d-e pro for about 8 months(got it last July) and for this last 3-4 days I cannot boot without clearing my CMOS what I have is: Seasonic M12D 750W ASUS P7P55D-E Pro Intel Core i5 760 Quad Core Processor Lynnfield LGA1156 XFX GeForce® 8800 GT Alpha Dog 512MB DDR3 Standard (PV-T88P-YDF4) 2x Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 4GB DDR3 2X2GB DDR3-1600 CL 7-8-7-20 I tried to remove all the unnecessary stuff: HD/dvd/pci card/usb cable/etc I tried with only 1 dimm filled, instead of my 4, each one individually it didn't work I tried changing the battery, here goes a few dollars to nowhere, didn't work if I don't reset the CMOS it sometime stock on RAM led, sometime on BOOT DEVICE led, when this happen, it stuck on CPU speed detection when I boot right after the reset, i MUST click on the F2 option (boot with default bios setting) if i go into the bios and save/restart, i have to reset it again when booted, everything is rock solid stable, tried memtest, cpu stress, etc, etc. without issue what should be my next step? trying a new psu? (i need to find one..) doing rma? (i need this mb since it's my only computer...) something else?

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• Using pre-made patch cables on a punch down block?

  - by Trevor Harrison

  I need to add a 24 port switch to my wiring closet. In the (distant) past, I usually just punched each port of the switch to a 110 block on the wall (using hand-made cables), and cross connect between that and the 110 block that has the runs to each workstation. To save time, I'm thinking of buying 12 pre-made drop cables, cutting them in half (so 24 single ended cables), and punching those to my 110 block. The things I'm worried about are wire type (ie. solid vs. strands) and color scheme. I really don't know if they use different wire types (still?), but I remember that being an issue at one point. Can anyone comment on this? (I definitely won't feel comfortable trying to punch stranded wiring on my 110 block) Also, picking up a random pre-built cable I had laying around, I noticed that the color scheme used didn't appear to be T568B, but T568A, which would clash with the rest of my wall. Anyone know of an online source that specifies these things? I've looked at www.cablesforless.com (which does have nicer prices) and www.cablestogo.com (which seem stupid expensive) so far. Cables For Less doesn't specify wiring scheme, Cables To Go does specify T568B. Both seem to specify stranded wires instead of solid.

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• Routing WIFI and LAN for specific traffic

  - by jakebird451

  I have two network devices aboard my macbook pro: WIFI (en1): Used for general traffic. Connects to an ip of 192.168.19.* via DHCP LAN (en0): Used for specific traffic. Connects to an ip of 192.168.2.10 as a static IP. Does not connect to a router, only a switch for direct routing connection. I have 4 IP addresses I need to access on the LAN: 192.168.2.1 192.168.2.21 192.168.2.20 192.168.2.30 The rest of the traffic needs to go to WIFI. I have tried setting up a routing table for the specific ip addresses, but I only managed to mess up my network. I do not venture out into the world of networking too often, but this was the latest command I have been trying: sudo route add -host 192.168.2.30 -interface en0 This command killed my ability to use ping. It told me that ping could not allocate memory (is that even possible)? It also killed my wifi access. Logging out and back in fixed the issue. I really do not mind to make this solution permanent, so I am fine with a temporary routing. EDIT: If I currently have been trying: sudo route flush sudo route add default 192.168.19.1 This gets everything to work for about a minute. But after such minute it "forgets" the routing to WiFi while retaining LAN's (en0) routing. If I unplug and replug my LAN (en0) cable, the process works for another minute.

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• How to wire 20 computers and 20 phones and 1 server into LAN?

  - by John Smith

  I have currently 3 switches Two Netgear JFS524 with 24 slots, One Belkin with 16 slots. Server DSL Internet Router. Main question is how to connect switches together, two Netgear's are next to each other, yet one is about 100 feet away and holds about 5 computer and 5 phones. If i connect them with only 1 wire will that limit bandwidth? e.g. all 23 computers will be limited to speed of one CAT5e cable? If i connect switches with 2 cables will this give speed boost? What's the ideal scenario should i just move the third switch next to other two? Will the speed of computer connected to white switch be same as computer connected to top switch? Will moving white switch right next top switch and having 16 wires comming 100 feet instead of 1 wire comming 100 feet make it faster? EDIT 1: I actually have NETGEAR ProSafe GS105 Gigabit switch its only has 4 ports in it though, you think i can have use of it in current setup? Like connect all 3 switches and server into it and keep internet router and phone server on one of the slower switches EDIT 2: Everyone mention gigabit switches, but will they do any difference with 10/100 network cards? I then have to use gigabit cards in every computer too? I could in server perhaps, but users will be 10/100

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• Export Outlook Express XP into Outlook 2007 Windows 7

  - by Jason Moore

  I've searched the forum and it seems my need is a little different than the posts which have already been made. I have an old XP laptop which I was using Outlook Express for one of my mail accounts (a work account). I also ran regular Outlook for another (personal). I want to have both of these accounts on my new PC. My new PC is running Windows 7 wiht Office 2007. I used the Windows transfer cable and things worked failry well. My regular Outlook files all came over well, but nothing for Outlook Express. I really would like to take this time to somehow export my OE files into my Outlook 2007. I would really like to keep the account which imported in on Outlook seperate. Question 1: Is there a way to import my OE files into Outlook 2007? Question 2: Is there a way to have two seperate email accounts in Outlook without combining them? Basically I want to have a work email and a personal and keep them seperate. If I can't have two seperate emails with Outlook, can anyone suggest something which would allow me to export my old Outlook (the old personal emails) into another program so that I can at least use my work email on Outlook 2007? Hopefully this isn't too confusing.

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• Synergy on macbook with osx mavericks wifi connection

  - by user332956

  I'm trying to set up Synergy with my macbook pro running OS X 10.9.3 as a client and my Windows 7 desktop as a server. I'm having some pretty bad connection problems though when I try to use my mac. Every couple seconds the mouse or the keyboard will stop working entirely then come back. I ran some tests and found that the ping from my desktop to my mac would be very high every third ping or so(1000+ ms) or sometimes even time out. If I ping my desktop from my mac the pings are all reasonably low. I believe that this is a power saving feature of Mavericks and I have found a way to get around it by continually pinging my router on my mac, keeping my wifi card from going to sleep. I'm using this right now to type this up with synergy and have had zero issues. Has anyone else ran into this issue and found a better solution? So far, I think my best bet would be to buy an ethernet adapter but I'd rather not have yet another cable running across my desk.

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• USB To Serial under OpenSuse 11.3

  - by Exsisto

  I have a LogiLink USB-To-Serial adapter. This has the PL2303 chip inside. When I insert the device: [26064.927083] usb 7-1: new full speed USB device using uhci_hcd and address 9 [26065.076090] usb 7-1: New USB device found, idVendor=067b, idProduct=2303 [26065.076099] usb 7-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=0 [26065.076105] usb 7-1: Product: USB-Serial Controller [26065.076110] usb 7-1: Manufacturer: Prolific Technology Inc. [26065.079181] pl2303 7-1:1.0: pl2303 converter detected [26065.091296] usb 7-1: pl2303 converter now attached to ttyUSB0 So the device is recognized and the converter is attached to ttyUSB0. When I do screen /dev/ttyUSB0 9600 I get the error: bash: /dev/ttyUSB0: Permission denied So I went looking in the file permissions. ls -l from the /dev folder reports: crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 188, 0 2011-04-26 15:47 ttyUSB0 I added my user lars to the dialout group. When I use the commands groups under lars it shows that I'm in the group. Though I still recieve the permissions denied error, as lars, and as root. I'm trying to connect to a console cable to configure some Cisco switches. My OS is OpenSuse 11.3 x86_64 with kernel version 2.6.34.7-0.7-desktop.

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• Long Gigabit Ethernet Run

  - by Timothy R. Butler

  I am trying to get an Gig-E network between two buildings that are approximately 260 ft. away. While some TRENDnet switches failed to be able to connect to each other over Cat 6 at that distance, two Netgear 5-port Gig-E switches do so just fine. However, it still fails after I put in place APC PNET1GB ethernet surge protectors at each end before the line connects to the respective switches. So I find myself wondering if I simply need to find a better surge protector that doesn't degrade the signal as much (if so, what kind would you recommend?) or if I should give up on copper and use fiber between the buildings. If I opt to go the latter route, I could really use some pointers. It looks like LC connectors are the most common, but I keep running into some others as well. A media converter on each end seems like the simplest solution, but perhaps a Gig-E switch with an SFP port would make more sense? Given a very limited budget, sticking with my existing copper seems best, but if it is bound to be a headache, a 100 meter fiber cable is something I think I can swing cost wise.

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• Why do I get this message from chrome when navigating to https://www.amazon.com?

  - by Denis

  This is probably not the site you are looking for! You attempted to reach www.amazon.com, but instead you actually reached a server identifying itself as *.voxcdn.com. This may be caused by a misconfiguration on the server or by something more serious. An attacker on your network could be trying to get you to visit a fake (and potentially harmful) version of www.amazon.com. Intermittently, I get a blank page when going to http://www.amazon.com. So I stuck an 's' in the URL, making it https://www.amazon.com and got that message above (with the nice red screen) from Chrome indicating there might be some monkey business going on. After hammering on the URL a bunch of times and pulling it up in Chrome's developer tool to look at the network traffic on it, the url (without the s) started behaving. The url with the s just hangs, but the red screen no longer comes up. Some specs... I've got a macBook Pro, Snow Leopard, Time Warner cable. I've had enough strange stuff happening over the past couple months (google.com, youtube.com, amazon.com not coming up or loading strange error messages with random reference numbers) that I finally decided to switch to OpenDNS. Still having problems, though.

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• How can I get my routers to forward ports correctly?

  - by Giffyguy

  My network currently looks like this (simplified): Note that Router #2 is connected to the LAN interface of Router #1. This should be familiar to anyone who has seen a standard static-IP setup with an additional firewall for a residence or other small building. Router #1 is actually my cable gateway, but since it is a fully functional router/firewall, I am going to refer to it as a router. Now, I need to open various ports in both firewalls for incoming communication to my server - port 80 is a good example. So I've opened up port 80 in Router #2, and so far all incoming traffic at the public IP X.X.X.129 is being routed correctly. The problem is that I also need my server to respond to incoming traffic at the public IP X.X.X.130 on the WAN interface of Router #1. Naturally, I can't just tell Router #1 to forward port 80 to another public IP. Port forwarding is only supported when the traffic is being directed to the LAN subnet. I am willing to restructure my network topology if required, with the following conditions: Router #1 cannot have its WAN IP reassigned - X.X.X.130 is mandatory. Router #1 cannot be moved or disconnected from the cloud. The server cannot be given a second IP address. I would prefer the server to have a private IP address - e.g. 10.0.0.10 I'd like to keep Router #2, but it can have a private IP - e.g. 10.0.1.10 Following these rules, I need to get my server to receive incoming traffic on port 80 from both public IP addresses. Does anyone on SU know if this is possible? So far my only theories have been to set up a static route on either router, or to somehow combine my two subnets into a single subnet.

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• Advice needed for a home network setup (hardware & software) to handle many clients and potentially heavy traffic

  - by posdef

  I have recently decided to re-structure the home network of our flatshare here. Here's a quick outline of the situation. I envision to have the following 4 devices connected to the router via cable: Xbox 360 IP phone Printer QNAP server (Web, File and Multimedia) We are three people living here, so on top of that there will be to 5-6 computers/mobile devices connecting as wireless clients. My goal is to be able to transfer files (when needed) between the computer and the Multimedia server, which I can reach via 360 and play on the TV. I also would like to keep a high level of security; right now I have the encryption on WPA2 and MAC filtering. I don't believe the web server will get heavy traffic, though I would like to have it responsive. Likewise, I don't have a habit of downloading via torrent etc, but I greatly appreciate my network being responsive and fast, especially when I am browsing or streaming high quality media. Now my questions are: is this setup feasible? smart? efficient? can this be improved somehow? my current router (D-Link DI624) and the previous one (DI-524) used to have spontaneous drops in network, which I find highly irritating. I don't believe in my router, especially now that it completely crashed when I was test-running the setup by transferring a large media file to server while xbox was playing music from the server, and two computers browsing the net. Do I need to get new hardware, if so, any recommendations for a reliable and fast router?

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• Automatically install driver on headless WHSv1 system

  - by Dan Neely

  I have one of the HP Mediasmart Windows Home Server v1 boxes. It's network port appears to have died a few days ago but the system is not giving any other sign of failure: No activity lights activate on either side of the cable when connected to my gigabit switch; when connected to one of my routers 100 megabit ports the lights turn on but it remains unreachable over the network and my router never lists it as among DHCP clients. I bought a USB-ethernet adapter to temporarily get it back online; but the adapter needs a driver to work which I can't install because the system is headless by design (no video out, no PCI/PCIe slots) with admin access only available via the WHS client or remote desktop. Both of those options require network connectivity and are consequently unavailable. I tried copying the drivers to a flash drive; but Windows either didn't look there or none of the drivers provided were suitable (Win8, Win7, or combined XP and Vista). I've been told that a USB WiFi adapter would have the same driver problem.

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• OSX: Mimic Ubuntu IP Masquerading via iptables with ipfw

  - by Dogbert

  Good day, I am attempting to replicate a setup I have between a router and an Ubuntu PC, and have the same setup working on my MacBook (10.6, Snow Leopard). First, I have a router that has a USB port. When I plug it into my Ubuntu PC, it creates an RNDIS connection, allowing me to connect to the router over the USB cable via an IP connection. When I plug it into my computer via USB, it gets assigned an IP address of 172.16.84.1, and a new adapter appears when I type ifconfig. I can then SSH into the device via ssh [email protected]. When I log in to the device, I flush the routes, then create the default route: admin@localhost> route -f admin@localhost> route add default 172.16.84.2 Now, in my Ubuntu machine, I use iptables to enable IP masquerading: root@Valhalla> sudo iptables -t nat -A POSTROUTING -s 172.16.84.2 -j MASQUERADE Once this is all done, the router has internet access over the USB connection to my PC. I am trying to replicate this exact setup on my MacBook now (Snow Leopard), but iptables does not exist for OSX, not even a Macports version exists. I have scoured through other questions on StackOverflow that cover the usage of the ipfw command, which apparently works as a drop-in replacement for iptables. However, the syntax is significantly different, and I'm pretty much lost. Does anyone with some experience with ipfw have some suggestions on how I could accomplish this and create a NAT connection via IP masquerading like I could with my Ubuntu PC? Thank you for your assistance.

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• Windows 7 wireless not seeing any networks

  - by jkohlhepp

  I think I have managed to confuse Windows 7. When I did the install, I had the network cable plugged in to my router, but the wireless card was also enabled. During the install, Windows 7 seemed to see my wireless network and even asked me for the WEP key. I know that it used the WEP key because I initially entered an invalid one and it gave me an error. Then the network said "SoAndSoWireless Connected". However, when I unplug or disable my wired network card, then I have no internet, and it can't see any networks. When I plug in the wired network card, it says "SoAndSoWireless Connected". Under Network and Internet Network Connections I have "Local Area Connection" and "Wireless Network Connection". The wired one's status is "SoAndSoWireless" and the wireless status is "Not Connected". Also, the wireless connection can't seem to see any other wireless networks in the area and I know there are tons. My neighbors have several. I've somehow seemingly confused Windows 7 into thinking that my wired network card is my wireless card or something. Any ideas on how to un-confuse it? This is a desktop machine by the way, if it matters. EDIT: Ah, I think part of the problem is that I named my network accidentally the same as the name of the wireless network being broadcast by the wireless router. So that might be why it says that name on the hard-wired connection. Perhaps the drivers just are completely not working for the wireless card. Thanks, ~ Justin

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• DHCP Server on local machine

  - by EralpB

  Hello I am trying to setup a dhcp3-server on Ubuntu. But my question is more generic, if dhcp server is in a blockbox and all clients are connected to it I think I get what is going on but when dhcp server is installed on one of the "clients" that confuses me. When I send a dhcp packet from that client to the dhcp server, will my ethernet card read and write at the same time? Or will it handle it internally without writing any data to ethernet cable. It's the first time I am encountering these network things so I am a little bit confused. Also I wonder If I am in a big network with lan IP let's say 192.168.0.100 and I install a dhcp server to my computer, can any other computers accidentally get IP from my dhcp server? Every computer has one ethernet card (if that matters?). And every computer is connected to one router. I guess the answer is no because the broadcast message won't reach to my computer since when router receives a dhcp search packet it will answer and it won't let other computers know about it because they don't need to. And without router sending that packet one by one, it cannot travel further. I'd be glad if someone enlightens me. Thank you very much.

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• I can't connect new Windows 7 PC to Mac iBook with OS 10.3.9

  - by Jeff Humm

  Help ! I have an old iBook wired to a router and a new PC linking wirelessly to same router. On the Mac I have 'seen' the PC but not been able to connect to it. On the PC, the Network and Sharing Centre lists 'IBOOK'. When I click on this, 'Windows Security' asks me to 'Enter Network Password', asking for User name and password. I have tried: 1) The user name and password of my admin account on the iBook. This returns a 'logon failure' message but lists the user name as [NAME_OF_PC\User Name], suggesting it was looking for the user name of the PC, not the Mac. 2) The user name and password of my account on the PC. This also returns a 'logon failure' message. 3) The user name of my account on the PC and the 'homegroup password' given to me by Windows when setting up the PC. This also returns a 'logon failure' message. Today I've tried connecting the two machines via a patch cable - still no joy. Can anyone help? It is 20 years since I wrestled with any OS other than Mac, and 10 years since I've done mich wrangling with the Macs, so please assume no knowledge! Thanks in advance,

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