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• Why Does Wireless Gear Degrade Over Time?

  - by bahamat

  I saw this originally posted on slashdot, but their comment format is not conducive to actually getting a correct answer. Having directly experienced this phenomenon myself, I'm now asking here where I think I can actually get an educated answer. Here's the original question verbatim: Lately I have replaced several home wireless routers because the signal strength has been found to be degraded. These devices, when new (2+ years ago) would cover an entire house. Over the years, the strength seems to decrease to a point where it might only cover one or two rooms. Of the three that I have replaced for friends, I have not found a common brand, age, etc. It just seems that after time, the signal strength decreases. I know that routers are cheap and easy to replace but I'm curious what actually causes this. I would have assumed that the components would either work or not work; we would either have a full signal or have no signal. I am not an electrical engineer and I can't find the answer online so I'm reaching out to you. Can someone explain how a transmitter can slowly go bad? Common (incorrect, but repeated) answers from slashdot include: Back then your neighbors didn't have wifi, now they do. They drowning you out. I don't think this is likely because replacing the access point with a new one and using the same frequencies solves the problem. Older devices had low transmit power. Crank that baby. As mentioned by a FreeBSD wireless developer this violates regulations and can physically damage the equipment. It was also mentioned that higher power in one direction is not necessarily reciprocated. This shows higher bars, but not necessarily a better connection. Manufacturers make cheap crap designed to wear out. This one actually may be legitimate although it is overly broad. What specifically causes damage over time? Heat? Excessive power? So can anyone provide an informed answer on this? Is there any way to fix these older access points?

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• Loose component cables causing HDMI video problems

  - by jwir3

  I'm not sure this is the correct forum, but I'll ask anyway. I have an A/V setup at home that has something like the following: Five Components (actually a few more, like a CD player, but they don't really relate to this question): Older Pioneer Receiver Digital Set Top Box Sony BluRay Player Samsung Plasma TV Speakers The reason for the receiver is so that all the sound can go through the speakers, rather than some going to the TV speakers and some to the external speakers. They are connected as follows: Digital Set Top Box connects via component video to Samsung TV directly via Component 2 (audio goes to Older Pioneer Receiver). Sony BluRay player is connected via HDMI 1 to TV, but audio goes to the receiver. Now, the problem I'm having is that when I have the digital set top box connected, there are times when the Netflix or Hulu streams I watch through the Sony BluRay player (it's connected to a router for internet access) will lose video. What I mean by this is that the sound of the episode will keep playing, but the screen will go black. If I jiggle the component cables, it will often come back. If I disconnect the component cables, it will always come back. I've noticed that one of the connections (the red component cable) doesn't like to sit very well in the component socket in the back of the digital set top box. It seems like there is a bad connection here, but it doesn't seem like this should be affecting the HDMI input at all. What I've noticed, though, is that when I disconnect the digital set top box completely (i.e. remove the component cable from the back of the TV), the problem seems to resolve itself. I'm not talking about actually removing the cable physically, because I thought perhaps the cables were mashing against one another, and possibly jiggling each other loose. To correct this possible problem, I took the component cable completely out of the cable ties it was in in the back of my entertainment center, as well as pulled the digital set top box out from the entertainment center altogether. It's now connected directly to the TV, without any other cables touching it to cause some kind of weird interference or just physical pulling on the cable. Same problem. If, however, I disconnect the component cable and just leave it sitting behind the TV, then the problem goes away. So, my question is this - what could be causing this? Is it a case where it's an improperly shielded component cable that's causing interference with the HDMI input, or something that's wrong with the TV? It's an intermittent problem, so it's difficult to track down. The TV isn't that old, so it's probably still under warranty. I'm just wondering if there is something else I can do that might reduce this problem without having to haul a massive television set out of my house to get repaired/replaced.

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• Troubleshooting an unstable internet connection

  - by Konrad Rudolph

  My MacBook Pro running OS X (10.9, but I had the same problem before) is connected to a Belkin router via WiFi and, using Virgin Media as the ISP, to the internet. The connection is extremely unstable – on some days, I get a ping timeout every few seconds. In addition, some domains seem to suffer general connectivity issues. For instance, I often find that while the youtube.com website loads, none of the videos (which are hosted on a separate domain) do. At other times, videos load but always fail to buffer, even though the actual connection speed is ok, even though I’ve disabled dash playback. Since I’m living in a rented room and the ISP contract isn’t actually mine I’ve got only limited possibilities of addressing the problem. In particular, I have no access to the router configuration and my non tech savvy landlady, while sympathetic, is not in a great hurry to hand the problem over to the ISP’s customer support. What’s more, I seem to be the only person in the house experiencing these problems – but I can imagine that this is simply because I’m the only one who’s using the internet continuously. I’m searching for specific tests that might be able to pinpoint – and ideally solve – the problem. So far all I’ve managed to do is establish that Virgin is routing my traffic in mysterious ways. Here’s an excerpt from traceroute google.co.uk. It’s worth mentioning that the host name doesn’t seem to matter a lot, the trace route is always the same. traceroute: Warning: google.co.uk has multiple addresses; using 62.254.36.148 traceroute to google.co.uk (62.254.36.148), 64 hops max, 52 byte packets 1 (192.168.2.1) 1.112 ms 1.300 ms 2.359 ms 2 10.100.32.1 (10.100.32.1) 11.926 ms 10.217 ms 24.987 ms 3 cmbg-core-1a-ae3-610.network.virginmedia.net (80.1.202.93) 28.809 ms * 66.653 ms 4 popl-bb-1b-ae16-0.network.virginmedia.net (212.43.163.141) 13.759 ms 126.504 ms 20.472 ms 5 nrth-bb-1b-et-010-0.network.virginmedia.net (62.253.175.57) 28.357 ms 16.398 ms 42.387 ms 6 nrth-bb-1c-ae1-0.network.virginmedia.net (62.253.174.110) 27.441 ms 15.622 ms 12.044 ms 7 lutn-icdn-1-ae0-0.network.virginmedia.net (62.253.175.82) 16.678 ms 28.463 ms 28.253 ms 8 * * * 9 * * * 10 * * * ^C If I let it, this goes on until the end of time. It never seems to reach a destination. Is this normal? A friend living in the same town who is also with Virgin Media has a more conventional traceroute output: 7 hops to google.co.uk, all of which send the ICMP TIME_EXCEEDED response. The obvious fix – rebooting the router – doesn’t seem to help. As far as I can tell, the WiFi connection is stable (I can always ping the router) so the problem is further downstream. I’ve tried using an alternative DNS before (OpenDNS) but if anything, this made things worse. In fact, it made all Google services nigh unreachable.

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• git, egit, submodules, and symlinks -- how should shared sub-projects be handled in eclipse?

  - by Autophil

  Question: what's the best way to handle sub-projects in eclipse when using git for SCM? Here's the situation. I have a few git projects with a directory structure layed out more or less like this: simpleproj app www admin demo lib model orm view model user blah ... storeproj app www about mobile fbapp lib model orm view model user message cart product merchant Each directory in "lib" contains a separate project, either created in-house or forked, all of which use git for source control. So I figured I should make them submodules of my projects, right? Well, we've been moving toward eclipse + egit, because some of our windows guys not used to a CLI need something they can use without being scared of screwing things up. Anyway, the problem is, egit doesn't support submodules. So, my solution has been a rather crude one involving symlinks... lets say my directory structure on my dev box is generally layed out like this: ~/projects/ bigproj .git app lib model (- ~/lib/model/src/) orm (- ~/lib/orm/src/) neatproj .git app lib view (- ~/lib/view/src/) oldproj .git app lib orm (- ~/lib/orm/src/) ~/lib/ model .git src README.md orm .git src COPYING view .git src ...the symlinks link to a subdirectory of the directory containing the git repo, so eclipse doesn't get confused, and everything sort of works. On my machine, I can update the libs from anywhere and all projects will be updated (needing to be committed again of course). Each project stores a separate copy of the contents of the symlinked directories within "lib" -- but only when staged from within eclipse. After committing from eclipse and moving back to the CLI, git sees that a bunch of files have been removed and a few symlinks have been created. Of course this is acceptable also, probably more so than keeping a separate history of the libs for each project... but eclipse and CLI git obviously need to be on the same page so tons of files aren't vanishing and reappearing. So this brings me to my question. I'd like to know how to either: get eclipse+egit to see the symlinks as symlinks if git will somehow handle them properly*, or get the CLI git to treat them as non-symlinks. Or, if there's a better way to do this, I'm all ears. Hope this all made sense! :D Note: tried to tag this as git-submodules, but was not allowed :( * should I make them relative or absolute? Either way it's a mess. Also will symlinks will work on windows? i know there's something similar but you need a 3rd party tool to manage them AFAIK, i doubt these would translate well.

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• Can't send email through Comcast SMTP to my domains

  - by Midnight Oil

  I am a Comcast customer with 3 computers and 3 computer users in the house. There are 2 fully updated Macs and one PC running Windows 7. We use Mail on the Macs, and Outlook on Windows 7. All computer accounts are configured to send mail through port 587 of smtp.comcast.net. I also have two personal domains registered with Network Solutions. For the sake of this discussion, call my domains myOwnDomain1.com and myOwnDomain2.com. I have email addresses at both domains. They are of the form [email protected] and [email protected]. Until recently, our email worked as expected. However, sometime between September 13, 2012 and September 19, 2012, we lost the ability to send email through Comcast's SMTP server to the email addresses at my personal domains. If we attempt to send email through Comcast's SMTP to those addresses, the email never arrives. Furthermore, the email clients give no indication of failure. The email just never arrives. The result is the same on all 3 computers and with all accounts on those computers. We can successfully send email through Comcast's SMTP from any of our accounts on any of our computers to any email address other than to my email addresses at my personal domains! However, I receive email at those domains that is not sent through smtp.comcast.net. For example, I can successfully send email from my gmail and yahoo accounts to my email addresses at my personal domains. Furthermore, I can successfully send email through smtp.myOwnDomain1.com to [email protected] and through smtp.myOwnDoman2.com to [email protected]. Comcast says the problem must be at Network Solutions. According to Network Solutions, their logs show they are not blocking reception of the email, and our IP address is not flagged as a spam source. They say the email is simply not arriving. Does anyone have any ideas why we can't send email through Comcast's SMTP server to my domains? As an odd coincidence, we recently noticed a change in Comcast's SMTP service. there is now a 5 minute delay on all outbound mail. Comcast's SMTP server seems to sit on the mail with a 5 minute timer.

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• Looking for a new backup solution to replace dying tape drive

  - by E3 Group

  We're running Windows Server 2003 SBS and another machine with Server 2003 Standard on it. The SBS server is about 7 years old running pretty much 24/7 - a HP server of some description. We have an Ultrium 448 cycling LTO2 400GB tapes daily and incrementally backing up approximately 100gb worth of data (20gb C:\ and system state, 40gb exchange, 40gb database for some crap marketing software) on BackupExec 10D. As of 5 months ago, the backups have been consistently failing with IO errors, bad reads and some write errors. When I say consistent, I mean every time and we haven't had a proper backup for the entire 5 months - So if the server explodes tomorrow, 7 years worth of data will just cease to exist. I've only just recently rejoined the company and am looking at rectifying the more concerning problems, so the first thing I did was try a backup to an USB2.0 external drive. It was excruciatingly slow. In fact it was so slow it took 40 hours and it still wasn't finished. I ended up cancelling it and reconfiguring the selections again to reduce file size. This, however, isn't a permanent solution. I concluded that the IO error was either from a faulty tape drive (which has a tape stuck in there right now and not coming out) or from a dying SCSI controller. Neither of them are good news and both are extremely expensive to fix. I'm operating on an extremely low budget so have been looking at outsourcing the backups. A company in Sydney (where I'm located) offer incremental online backups via a NAS. It costs almost double a new tape drive but offers monthly repayments which will let us get through times when cash flow is minimal. It seems like a sweet deal but it is still a little bit pricey. So I'm looking for a cheaper, yet reliable solution. Maybe some in-house NAS or something offsite? The idea is to avoid using tapes. Are there any recommendations for rectifying my current situation? Or are tapes the only way to go? I'm concerned that the server will die one day in the near future and I must be able to restore it to another server with different hardware.

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• NX Client for Windows 7 Opens Remote Desktop in Multiple Windows

  - by Corey Kennedy

  What I'm trying to do: access my Ubuntu desktop remotely via NX Client on my Windows 7 laptop. My environment: server: Ubuntu 10.10 on AMD 1Ghz/512MB RAM PC client: Windows 7 on ThinkPad sl510 Software: server is running NXServer 3.4.0. Using xfce4 window manager. Laptop is using NXClient for Windows In my NX Client "Desktop" settings I've selected "Unix" and "Custom" for OS and environment. I've also specified "startxfce4" as the application to launch when NX connects. I am able to authenticate an NX session on my laptop. By this I mean, I can start the client on my laptop, enter credentials for my Linux user, and NX establishes a connection to the server and attempts to open a remote desktop window. The problem, though, is that this remote desktop is "fragmented" into many Windows. One window will display the bulk of my desktop (complete with desktop icons for "Home," "File System," and "Trash") while another window will contain the taskbar, and another window will contain the application strip. I can select each of these Windows individually, but I cannot click on any objects within them. I've searched Super User, Ubuntu Forums, NX help, Server Fault, and tried many Google searches - none have turned up another case of this particular problem. I'm stumped. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I might try? I'm guessing the problem has to do with my xfce config files, but I've only just setup this server - it's been a long time since I've used Linux and there's a lot I just don't know. What I am NOT trying to do: use Desktop sharing from Ubuntu, whereby I VNC into a desktop that I've already established on the server. I am trying to configure this Linux box as a headless server that I can stash someplace out-of-the-way in my house, then interact with through my laptop. I don't want to have a monitor or keyboard connected to the Linux box. Thanks for your help! edit: 1/19/2011 Well, this is truly bizarre. To my knowledge I've made no changes to either system - the laptop or the server. But today after starting up the server for the first time in a few days, and making sure that nxserver was running, I was able to connect with the nxclient from my laptop with no problems. I have a full desktop in a single window and I am able to interact with it normally. This is really weird, but the problem seems to be resolved.

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• Setting up a home server - what to use? (ZFS vs btrfs, BSD vs Linux, misc other requirements)

  - by monch1962

  I need to get all our home content off individual machines and onto a central server. What I'd like to have is the metaphorical "server under the stairs". Stuff we need: expandable storage. I want to be able to add extra disc as we go along, with minimal maintenance required. Currently we've got about 3Tb of files we need to host, and that's likely to grow by another Tb every 6-12 months based on recent history. I need to be able to add additional disc with minimal pain needs to store all the media (i.e. photos, video, music) we have, and run services to serve the various devices we have in the house to playback (e.g. DAAP so we can play stuff through iTunes, ccxstream so we can play stuff over XBMC). DAAP and ccxstream are needed now, but we also need to support new standards as they emerge (so a closed-box solution isn't going to work) RAID 5, or something broadly equivalent (e.g. RAID-Z) BitTorrent client ssh, NFS, Samba access snapshot capability (as in ZFS), so we can snapshot individual file systems regularly and rollback when my kids delete their school assignments the day before they're due... ability to recover quickly from power outages (it's not unusual for us to have power outages that last longer than our UPS' batteries) FOSS software a modern distributed version control system running on the box, such as Mercurial Stuff I'd like to have on the server, but can live without: PVR capability, so I could record TV to the box Web server. We currently run a small Web server on a very old box, and I'd ideally like to turn the old box off and move the content to the new server just to save some electricity Nagios + mrtg I've been looking at using a EEE Box as the server, primarily because I can get them cheap and they don't consume much power. The choice of OS and file system is more difficult, from what I've found: I've got most experience with various Linux distros, but am happy to use another Unix FreeBSD and OpenSolaris seem to be the best choices for hosting ZFS OpenSolaris' hardware support is nowhere near as good as e.g. Ubuntu btrfs, while looking very good, doesn't seem ready for prime-time yet ZFS doesn't let you (easily?) add new discs to a RAID5 or RAID-Z reading around, it seems that ZFS is a bit short of tools for recovering lost data At the moment, I'm leaning towards running FreeNAS+ZFS, but I'm concerned about the requirement to be able to add new disc on a fairly regular basis to an existing RAID-Z. Can anyone provide some recommendations, or share experiences? Thanks in advance

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• Setting up a home server - what to use? (ZFS vs btrfs, BSD vs Linux, misc other requirements)

  - by monch1962

  I need to get all our home content off individual machines and onto a central server. What I'd like to have is the metaphorical "server under the stairs". Stuff we need: expandable storage. I want to be able to add extra disc as we go along, with minimal maintenance required. Currently we've got about 3Tb of files we need to host, and that's likely to grow by another Tb every 6-12 months based on recent history. I need to be able to add additional disc with minimal pain needs to store all the media (i.e. photos, video, music) we have, and run services to serve the various devices we have in the house to playback (e.g. DAAP so we can play stuff through iTunes, ccxstream so we can play stuff over XBMC). DAAP and ccxstream are needed now, but we also need to support new standards as they emerge (so a closed-box solution isn't going to work) RAID 5, or something broadly equivalent (e.g. RAID-Z) BitTorrent client ssh, NFS, Samba access snapshot capability (as in ZFS), so we can snapshot individual file systems regularly and rollback when my kids delete their school assignments the day before they're due... ability to recover quickly from power outages (it's not unusual for us to have power outages that last longer than our UPS' batteries) FOSS software a modern distributed version control system running on the box, such as Mercurial Stuff I'd like to have on the server, but can live without: PVR capability, so I could record TV to the box Web server. We currently run a small Web server on a very old box, and I'd ideally like to turn the old box off and move the content to the new server just to save some electricity Nagios + mrtg I've been looking at using a EEE Box as the server, primarily because I can get them cheap and they don't consume much power. The choice of OS and file system is more difficult, from what I've found: I've got most experience with various Linux distros, but am happy to use another Unix FreeBSD and OpenSolaris seem to be the best choices for hosting ZFS OpenSolaris' hardware support is nowhere near as good as e.g. Ubuntu btrfs, while looking very good, doesn't seem ready for prime-time yet ZFS doesn't let you (easily?) add new discs to a RAID5 or RAID-Z reading around, it seems that ZFS is a bit short of tools for recovering lost data At the moment, I'm leaning towards running FreeNAS+ZFS, but I'm concerned about the requirement to be able to add new disc on a fairly regular basis to an existing RAID-Z. Can anyone provide some recommendations, or share experiences? Thanks in advance

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• Setting up a home server - what to use? (ZFS vs btrfs, BSD vs Linux, misc other requirements)

  - by monch1962

  I need to get all our home content off individual machines and onto a central server. What I'd like to have is the metaphorical "server under the stairs". Stuff we need: expandable storage. I want to be able to add extra disc as we go along, with minimal maintenance required. Currently we've got about 3Tb of files we need to host, and that's likely to grow by another Tb every 6-12 months based on recent history. I need to be able to add additional disc with minimal pain needs to store all the media (i.e. photos, video, music) we have, and run services to serve the various devices we have in the house to playback (e.g. DAAP so we can play stuff through iTunes, ccxstream so we can play stuff over XBMC). DAAP and ccxstream are needed now, but we also need to support new standards as they emerge (so a closed-box solution isn't going to work) RAID 5, or something broadly equivalent (e.g. RAID-Z) BitTorrent client ssh, NFS, Samba access snapshot capability (as in ZFS), so we can snapshot individual file systems regularly and rollback when my kids delete their school assignments the day before they're due... ability to recover quickly from power outages (it's not unusual for us to have power outages that last longer than our UPS' batteries) FOSS software a modern distributed version control system running on the box, such as Mercurial Stuff I'd like to have on the server, but can live without: PVR capability, so I could record TV to the box Web server. We currently run a small Web server on a very old box, and I'd ideally like to turn the old box off and move the content to the new server just to save some electricity Nagios + mrtg I've been looking at using a EEE Box as the server, primarily because I can get them cheap and they don't consume much power. The choice of OS and file system is more difficult, from what I've found: I've got most experience with various Linux distros, but am happy to use another Unix FreeBSD and OpenSolaris seem to be the best choices for hosting ZFS OpenSolaris' hardware support is nowhere near as good as e.g. Ubuntu btrfs, while looking very good, doesn't seem ready for prime-time yet ZFS doesn't let you (easily?) add new discs to a RAID5 or RAID-Z reading around, it seems that ZFS is a bit short of tools for recovering lost data At the moment, I'm leaning towards running FreeNAS+ZFS, but I'm concerned about the requirement to be able to add new disc on a fairly regular basis to an existing RAID-Z. Can anyone provide some recommendations, or share experiences? Thanks in advance

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• Network use of Gaming PC

  - by Matthew Patrick Cashatt

  Background After YEARS of waiting, I built the custom gaming PC of my dreams: Intel i7 - 975 Extreme Edition 3.3ghz (overclocked to 4.0) ATI Radeon 5970 2gb Corsair 256 gb SSD Drive 2 TB Sata II 3.0 7200rpm data drive 12 GB Kingston Hyper-X (1600mhz) DDR3 Windows 7 Ultra 64 bit And so on. . . Problem I hooked this beast up to our home theater and settled in for a great gaming season only to realize a couple of drawbacks: It's hard to accurately wax bad guys using a keyboard in your lap whilst reclined on your couch (and using a wireless keyboard). It's hard to read the text on the screen (i.e. menus, etc). I find that a 1:1 ratio (screen diagonal inch to inch away from screen) is optimum, but using the home theater, it's more like 1:3 which has me squinting unless I sit on the coffee table. The wife always seems to want the TV the same time I do and, unfortunately "Real Housewives of Beverly Hills" and Battlefield BC don't mix. I am losing the battle in the home theater room, but the PC has to stay there (long story). So, this leaves me with the option of playing in my home office which is about 30 feet away from the home theater. I am a software developer so I have a pretty decent set up in my office--multiple 1080p monitors, HP Envy 17 which can run games like Crysis in 720p with out stammering too much. Also, I can game very comfortably at my desk in the office. Still, even though the set up in my office can run games well enough, I don't want to regress to that when I have worked YEARS for an awesome gaming PC that can run everything on ultra high settings. My Question What are my options for running my games on the beastly desktop in the Home Theater, but physically playing in my office about 30 feet away? A really long HDMI cable? LAN/RDC? Details that May Help We have an open crawlspace so running cable from HT room to office is no problem. I already have networked the house with a LAN Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Matt

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• Samba share not accessible from Win 7 - tried advice on superuser

  - by Roy Grubb

  I have an old Red Hat Linux box that I use, amongst other things, to run Samba. My Vista and remaining Win XP PC can access the p/w-protected Samba shares. I just set up a new Windows 7 64-bit Pro PC. Attempts to access the Samba shares by clicking on the Linux box's icon in 'Network' from this machine gave a Logon failure: unknown user name or bad password. message when I gave the correct credentials. So I followed the suggestions in Windows 7, connecting to Samba shares (also checked here but found LmCompatibilityLevel was already 1). This got me a little further. If click on the Linux box's icon in 'Network' from this machine I now see icons for the shared directories. But when I click on one of these, I get \\LX\share is not accessible. You might not have permission... etc. I tried making the Win 7 password the same as my Samba p/w (the user name was already the same). Same result. The Linux box does part of what I need for ecommerce - the in-house part, it's not accessible to the Internet. As my Linux Fu is weak, I have to avoid changes to the Linux box, so I'm hoping someone can tell me what to do to Win 7 to make it behave like XP and Vista when accessing this share. Help please!? Thanks Thanks for replying @Randolph. I had set 'Network security: LAN Manager authentication level' to Send LM & NTLM - use NTLMv2 session security if negotiated based on the advice in Windows 7, connecting to Samba shares and had restarted the machine, but that didn't work for me. I'll try playing with other Network security values. I have now tried the following: Network security: Allow Local System to use computer identity for NTLM: changed from Not Defined to "Enabled". Restarted machine Still says "\LX\share is not accessible. You might not have permission..." etc. Network security: Restrict NTLM: Add remote server exceptions for NTLM Authentication (added LX) Restarted machine Still says "\LX\share is not accessible. You might not have permission..." etc. I can't see any other Network security settings that might affect this. Any other ideas please? Thanks Roy

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• DLINK WBR-1310B Wireless Router seems to hang...

  - by Ira Baxter

  I have a brand new DLINK-1310B Wireless Router (box never before opened, although I bought it at the neighborhood computer junk store). I am using it at home (and in fact am using it at this instant from a wireless laptop). When operative, I can ping it at 192.168.0.1, and I can log into it from the PC attached to it by LAN and from the wireless PC at //192.168.0.1. In the course of the day since I've installed, it seems to have locked up 3 times. Each time the symptoms are my web browser (or other IP service, e.g., POP3) stops with a "No internet connection" error. Attempts to contact the router via 192.168.0.1 get no reaction, from either the wireless laptop or from the hardwired PC sitting next to it. It doesn't respond to pings to that address either. Power cycling the router fixes it. I've seen discussion in other questions about aging cheap electronics. Its too new to be aged. Anybody else seen this behavior with a DLINK-1310? Or do I just need to exchange it for another and try again? (I hate rolling dice, I bought the DLINK because a previous Linksys died of apparant heating problems, how many do I have to cycle through before I get something that works and is long-term stable?). Remarkably, nobody talks about how much software is in a router. Is the stuff just buggy? EDIT: Happened again, while I was working on the wireless Vista laptop. (Seems like once an hour?) I was a little more careful this time. The wireless laptop can ping it. It can't get the login screen. I visited the LAN-connected PC (takes me a minute to walk from the laptop to the PC at the other end of the house), and attempted to visit a random web page. Surprise, that worked! And, now, after a minute walking back to the laptop, I can reconnect the wireless laptop, and get to the login page from it. Strange the time/date has been reset back to 2002. (I'll swear I set it and saved the system configuration after updating the firmware; it made me redo every other bit of reconfiguration again). Is there something funny about wireless leases expiring? The router says the leases it is handing out are good for 180 minutes, and the delay-to-inaccessible was only about an hour. The DSL connection seems to have a 10 minute lease.

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• Dangers of Running Computers w/o Air Conditioning

  - by Daniel Bingham

  I recently moved in to an apartment with out air conditioning. This is fine most of the time as I am in upstate New York. It only ever gets above the high 70s during the hottest of the summer months. And when it does, I'm stubborn enough that I'll just deal with wearing minimal clothing around the house. However, I'm worried about my computers. I'm a software developer and gamer, so many of my machines are very high powered. And at least one of them is a server that must be left on 24/7 (not just a game server - also serves multiple websites). I've never before had to worry about the heat too much, as I always lived in buildings with central air. The in building temperature rarely got much above 70 F. All of the machines I built had good enough air cooling that I never saw a problem. Now the temperature in building is pushing 100F and I'm worried that the machines will not be able to keep themselves cool enough by simply blowing already hot air over themselves. The hottest of them I've turned off. However, the server I cannot. It's an old Dell (not custom build) that runs on a Pentium 4 (2.2GHz). It only has a single hard drive, integrated video. And it'd not running any processor intensive servers. Just basic LAMP. It used to run a MUD server, but that's off for now. So it should be idling most of the time. I haven't been able to find any sort of built in temperature sensors in the hardware... at least not any that the programs I've found in the Debian repository can read. And it's an inherited machine to which I do not have the full specs, so I don't know the tolerances anyway. How worried should I be about it melting down on me? How worried should I be about the hard drive melting or becoming corrupted? To generalize the question for other people, what are the safe temperature tolerances for most machines. How widely does it vary, and how does one go about determining when their machine is running too hot and needs to be shut down?

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• PSU failing or Mainboard failing?

  - by Andrei Rinea

  I am having some troubles lately powering on my desktop workstation. While starting up the PC after being off for hours (usually at least 8 hours) it randomly fails to do so. What happens is that : I press the power button; nothing happens I can hear a moderate buzzing noise at the back of the PC (near the PSU); but I can't say for sure that it's not from the mainboard. If I insist pressing the power button a few times in 1-2 minutes it'll start Another route would be that instead of (3) I will plug off the power cable from the PSU and wait for 30 seconds. Then I will press the power on and keep it for 30-60 seconds (I had some success at notebooks with a similar approach). Then I will plug back the cable in the PSU, press only once the power button and it will start normally. Also while running normally I keep hearing some low buzzing which seems to be fan-RPM-related (i.e. when processing images or doing CPU intensive work). What should I look into? UPDATE It's getting worse. It took more than 10 retries today and almost 20 minutes to start the computer. I tried the paperclip trick and the PSU behaves perfectly. I managed to start the computer like so : I pressed the on-button a few times and then left the PC in a pre-startup state (the fans were working the buzzing noise was strong and I went to eat. I thought I won't lit the house on fire so fast and without smelling. Back, after 10-15 min the computer booted up! Discussed with a fellow at Intel and he told me the capacitors on the mainboard are probably a bit shot. If they are shot, he said, it should start up warm perfectly. So I did restart it, warm, a few times (5 sec cooldown and then 40 sec cooldown and it started up perfectly). I can either replace the capacitors on the mainboard (doesn't sound worth it or replace the mainboard (this one sucks too :)) ) FINAL INFO : It was the PSU after all. Although it was powering the IDEs and SATAs the Mainboard power module was failing. I bought another mainboard just to find out that this wasn't the cause. Now I'll have to return it somehow. The spare PSU is now in the computer and doing well.. Although larger (500W), it's like a plane taking off.. I need a better one.

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• WiFi signal is lost every 3 minutes

  - by Software Monkey

  For several weeks now my Android phone has been losing it's WiFi signal momentarily, typically at about 3 minute intervals (about 3 minutes, 1.5 seconds) and occasionally at some longer interval that always seems to be just over 3 minutes. This causes an interruption of several seconds while the WiFi connection is re-established and typically fails any kind of download/streaming that is happening, makes web sites "unreachable" and generally makes the phone unusable as a data device due to the frequency. The signal remains down for about a second, but the phone takes a few more seconds to reconnect to the router. This happens regardless of proximity to the router, which otherwise show a very strong signal - usually -40 to -30 dBm or better in the same room, nowhere less than 060 dBm anywhere in the house. Changing channels does not help (I've tried 1, 4, 8 and 9). Nor does turning off the router's guest access. Nor does turning off the 5.0 GHz band. Monitoring the signal on my phone with WiFi analyzer, shows all WiFi signals on all channels drop to nothing when the WiFi connection is lost (there are two other networks on different channels which are strong enough to be relevant, with about 6 others constantly fading in and out). WiFi analyzer shows 3 separate signals for my router, the main 2.4 GHz, the guest 2.4 GHz and the 5.0 GHz. Using WiFi Analyzer on my wife's phone side-by-side shows no change in signal when my phone drops, nor does her phone drop. Monitoring the signal using our laptop, side-by-side likewise shows no signal loss and likewise the laptop does not lose it's WiFi connection. But, at work, the phone seems to not exhibit the same behavior, or, if it does, it's very occasional. Monitoring it all day at work I only saw the signal drop 3 or 4 times. The signal strength of the various networks there is comparatively weak. AT&T were super helpful: "Sorry, we can't help you with WiFi problems. You could try doing a factory reset on your phone". </sarcasm The router is relatively new, but has been working fine with this phone since last Dec. Phone : Motorola Atrix (about 8 months old). Router : Belkin N750 DB (F9K1103 v1 (01C)). Router Firmware: 1.00.46 (2011/10/28 6:37:11). Security : WPA/WPA2-Personal (PSK)

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• Windows 7 Home hangs at "Welcome" screen

  - by White Phoenix

  I'm asking on behalf of a friend who's currently having problems with his machine. Windows 7 Home 32-bit. He's too far away for me to help by going over to his house - I'm helping him over the Internet. This is his current machine: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227134 The only two changes he made to that machine is to swap out the gfx card for a EVGA GTX 460 and the PSU for a Corsair TX650. Here's what happened: He was playing a computer game (fairly CPU/GPU intensive) and had some music going in the background in foobar while playing. Suddenly, he notices the music stopped playing, so he switches to foobar to try to close it, but it freezes up (window won't respond). So he figures it's just foobar having a bad day and force quits that program. Suddenly, his game won't respond, so he force quits that, then the entire computer just went to crap at that point, so he hits the restart button on his machine. Computer POSTS fine, but now he gets stuck at the Windows "welcome" screen (his account is set to auto-login). HD activity light is solid yellow but he doesn't hear HDD activity. He tried booting into Safe Mode - gets stuck at the "welcome screen". Tried a STartup Repair within Windows 7, it found a few problems, but still gets stuck at welcome. I advised him to boot off the DVD - sfc /scannow found nothing (couldn't use the regular /scannow option; says there's a repair pending, had to use use offbootdir/offwindir command switches). Ran startup repair 3 times - found nothing. My friend runs virus/malware scans on a regular basis, so he's fairly sure it's not that either. Right now I'm having my friend run chkdsk /R on the computer while in this Startup Recovery mode - so far it's caught a few bad sectors. However at this point I'm kinda wondering which way to go if chkdsk doesn't fix it. Quick Google search said someone had success by booting Windows with bootlogging on - some others have success with running the aforemented chkdsk, etc. The fact that Windows cannot even boot into Safe Mode concerns me. While we're waiting for chkdsk /R to finish, are there any other options I can give my friend short of reinstalling Windows 7? He has his data on a separate partition so that's not a major problem (though it'll be an annoyance for him). I suspect his hard drive may be having some issues, but my main concern is getting him back up and running before we start diagnosing the hard drive (I may have him run some sort of SMART test utility later).

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• Creating a network link between 2 very close buildings

  - by Daniel Johnson

  I have a charity who have two adjacent medium sized modern detached houses (in the UK): the buildings stand next to each other and are less than 5 metres apart. They have DSL connected to a single computer in one of the buildings. They want to add a network with wireless, and want it to work across both buildings. Being a charity they need to keep costs down. The network would be used for sharing Word documents, e-mail, browsing and skyping. My initial thoughts were to connect the buildings with fibre. So: Option 1 Use fibre between the buildings. Sufficient cable and two TP-LINK MC100CM Fast Ethernet Media Converters. Cost ~£80.00. But there is the extra cost and hassle of running the cable down and up the external walls, lifting and relaying paving, and burying underground. Never having fitted fibre I'm also a little worried about going up the wall and then bending the cable at 90 degrees to go through the wall and into the building. Option 2 Use two TP-Link TL-WA7510N High Powered Outdoor 5Ghz 15dBi Wireless antennas to connect the buildings. There is a clear line of sight at first floor level. Cost ~£100. And much easier to fit than fibre! Is using the TL-WA7510Ns overkill? Is there something more suitable? I had hoped to use some Netgear stuff, e.g. two DGN2200, one in each house and also use them to provide the wireless link between the buildings. However, in bridge mode wireless client association is not available and repeater mode with client association only supports WEP security which isn't strong enough. Is there something similar that would be up to the job? Option 3 Connect the buildings with UTP cable. My concerns here are risk of electric shock due to a difference of potential between the buildings (or are they so close this shouldn't be an issue) and protection from lightning strikes. Is fitting lighting arrestors expensive? And what can be done to ameliorate against the risk of shock? This all falls outside my area of expertise so I would really appreciate some advice.

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• Frequent and weird wifi disconnections

  - by Sidou

  How would you explain, troubleshoot (and solve) the following problem? Wifi ADSL modem router D-link 2640R installed in living room at about 1.8m height. Working fine, synchronising and getting/serving stable internet connection. First situation: -Laptop 01 in other end of the house, let's say in room01 southern to the living room, distant by about 15m. Getting stable signal of good to very good quality. No disconnection. -Laptop 02 in room02 opposite to room01 (5m West) which makes it almost at the same distance and direction from the router located 15m North. Getting stable signal of good to very good quality. No disconnection. Second situation: -Laptop 01 moved to room03 Northern to the living room (actually just 3m behind the wall where the router lies). Getting stable signal of excellent quality. No disconnection. -Laptop 02 still in room02 but now experiences frequent disconnections (actually almost impossible to get the Internet even though the signal level is still very good. Either no Internet with the wifi icon appearing connected to access point or no connection established at all which happens every 2 minutes and that means virtually no Internet at all as I can just get a timeframe of 1 minute or so to load any website or even get to the router's web based control panel. If Laptop 01 is completely shut down or its wifi adapters shut down or even still working but its wifi MAC address forbidden, then Laptop 02 has no problem at all. If Laptop 02 is moved to a nearer location to the router, in the living room for instance, then no connection problem occurs even if Laptop 01 is also connected. And also if we move back Laptop 01 to its original location (room 01), then no problem as well. I'm completely lost and don't know how to address this issue. I tried to change the Wifi channel and even tried the auto channel scan but that didn't solve it. I know that the problem is probably coming from Laptop 01 being in its new location or some sort of interference as the problem occurs only under the described condition but I have no idea how to solve it! I also scanned the neighborhood for wifi jam using InSSIDer, there are few other access points but they don't seem to affect the situation. Any ideas about the steps to follow or tools to use ?

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• Melting Laptop Power Supply Tip

  - by AlReece45

  Several (6-7) months ago, my laptop power supply cord got a cut in it and stopped working. Having gotten cheap (and short) power supplies in the past, I decided to buy 2 brand new ones from the manufacturer (ASUS). Now, I used my laptop a little less than usual between February and March. During that time I noticed a few times that the power supply, even though plugged in, did not provide power. Often the computer would just off on me. I figured it was just that one power supply being bad. I had left the alternate at my parent's house in another state and asked them to ship it to me. Now, at work the other day I wanted to get a file off the of hard disk. So I booted it up, knowing that it had a low battery, plugged it in. During the first 2 minutes of use, I was told that the battery was low and I should plug it in. I unplugged it, inspected the end (Being plugged in, this was suspicious), and decided I shouldn't plug it back in-- the plastic on the tip was melting from the heat of the metal on the tip. The computer had simply booted up and I had the file-manager open. It had not been on for more than 10 hours. Now I know that computers tend to get pretty hot. However, the melting point of plastic is usually above 200C.. so that's much hotter than the computer should be generating. I went and bought a THIRD power supply. This time a universal one from Best Buy (it was very fast to buy and test). I tried it out on the computer and it's tip is melting as well. My older laptop that uses the universal power supply uses it perfectly (has been about a week and a part of use now). I have tried using the computer without the battery, with the same effect. Obviously, this is not a problem with the power supply. My room mate and I being trained computer techs were contemplating taking the computer apart and desoldering and resoldering on the power tip. (The computer is about 6 months out of its 2-year warranty). We're hoping that will correct the issue as I would prefer to devote my money on a Good Desktop rather than yet ANOTHER $1200+ laptop. Is there any thing I'm missing here that might cause the the tip on the power unit to melt?

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• git, egit, submodules, and symlinks -- how should shared sub-projects be handled in eclipse?

  - by Autophil

  Here's the situation. I have a few git projects with a directory structure layed out more or less like this: simpleproj app www admin demo lib model orm view model user blah ... storeproj app www about mobile fbapp lib model orm view model user message cart product merchant Each directory in "lib" contains a separate project, either created in-house or forked, all of which use git for source control. So I figured I should make them submodules of my projects, right? Well, we've been moving toward eclipse + egit, because some of our windows guys not used to a CLI need something they can use without being scared of screwing things up. Anyway, the problem is, egit doesn't support submodules. So, my solution has been a rather crude one involving symlinks... lets say my directory structure on my dev box is generally layed out like this: ~/projects/ bigproj .git app lib model (- ~/lib/model/src/) orm (- ~/lib/orm/src/) neatproj .git app lib view (- ~/lib/view/src/) oldproj .git app lib orm (- ~/lib/orm/src/) ~/lib/ model .git src README.md orm .git src COPYING view .git src ...the symlinks link inside of directory with the git repo, so eclipse doesn't get confused, and everything sort of works. On my machine, I can update the libs from anywhere and all projects will be updated (needing to be committed again of course). Each project stores a separate copy of the contents of the symlinked directories within "lib" -- but only when staged from within eclipse. After committing from eclipse and moving back to the CLI, git sees that a bunch of files have been removed and a few symlinks have been created. Of course this is acceptable also, probably more so than keeping a separate history of the libs for each project... but eclipse and CLI git obviously need to be on the same page so tons of files aren't vanishing and reappearing. So this brings me to my question. I'd like to know how to either: get eclipse+egit to see the symlinks as symlinks if git will somehow handle them properly*, or get the CLI git to treat them as non-symlinks. Or, if there's a better way to do this, I'm all ears. Hope this all made sense! :D Note: tried to tag this as git-submodules, but was not allowed :( * should I make them relative or absolute? Either way it's a mess. Also will symlinks will work on windows? i know there's something similar but you need a 3rd party tool to manage them AFAIK, i doubt these would translate well.

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• Wifi randomly drops on Windows 8 laptop

  - by JosiahS

  First of all, I did a lot of research on this problem, and I wasn't able to come to any helpful conclusion. I've finally decided that I need advice from those who might know where to look. So don't let me down. :P I used to have an older Windows 7 laptop, which worked great for basic office and web browsing. However, I wanted something that would play actual modern games. So I recently bought a Sager NP8235 with the Intel Wireless-AC 7260 wifi card, and installed Windows 8 Pro on it. And ever since, I've been having problems with the wifi. Generally, what happens is if I leave the laptop on but inactive for an extended amount of time (I've estimated it around an hour to two), the wifi will start dropping randomly. If I happened to have a download going at the time, it usually causes the download to fail. Or, if I put the laptop to sleep overnight, the next morning I usually have to restart the computer because the wifi device apparently stops working (it literally won't turn on). Also, and most frustrating, whenever I'm on a video chat (like Skype), after about ten minutes, the connection will start lagging like crazy, until it forces Skype to end the call. After that, I usually have to disable and reenable the wifi to get it working again. I know it isn't our internet, because all the other computers in our house (~8) don't have any issues. Even the old Windows 7 laptop (connected also over wifi) works just fine, scoring the normal ~3Mbps average on speedtest.net (yes, I know our internet is slow, we live out in the country). Additionally, when I connect the Sager directly to the router via ethernet, the internet instantly starts working just great. Like I said, I've done a lot of googling to figure out what's going on, and I haven't been able to find anything that worked for me. Is it Windows 8 conflicting with the Wifi drivers? As of this writing, I have the Intel drivers v16.1.5.2 installed (without the extra Intel software). Or is it our router? It's a TP-Link TL-WR841ND, set to the default settings. The Sager is currently being assigned to a static IP, if that makes any difference. And yet, the old windows 7 laptop has a much more stable connection than the Sager. Anyone have any ideas? At this point, I'd appreciate even knowing what the problem is.

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• PC will POST whenever feels likes it

  - by kyrpas

  I'm really sick of my PC and I'd love to throw it off the 5th floor but unfortunately I don't have this luxury right now. The issues started when I moved to a new house about 2 months ago. I didn't have this problem before. Case: Arctic Cooling Silentium T1 with embedded Fusion 550 Eco 80 PSU. M/B: ASRock A790GMH/128M Gfx: ATI Radeon HD 5770 Here's what's happening almost on a daily basis: I wake up in the morning, switch on the PC and all the fans start spinning. 9/10 the graphics fan stays on 100% and I know it won't post. If I'm lucky, ATI's fan stays on full power for a second, then goes back to normal and I get a normal post but that doesn't happen often. No, instead it's just drives me crazy. When I get no POST I'm trying a lot of different things and what bothers me the most is that they all work. But not always. No... That way I could find out what the hell is going on and we don't want that.. right? So, sometimes it manages to POST if I: remove the keyboard remove the power cable for a few minutes remove the graphics card remove the HDD cables do nothing, just turn it on and off a few times Sometimes it doesn't POST even if I do all of the above. And I end up removing all power cables from the M/B, and connecting all the stuff one by one. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't and I just have to pray and wait. What the hell is that? I'm getting pissed of again just thinking about it. The only solution is to leave it on 24/7 but I don't want to do that. It should be able to turn on and off when I press the power button. I'm not asking much. I'm starting to think there's some weird electricity/power issue but I really don't understand what it is. There's no logical explanation about it. At least I can't find one. Any ideas?

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• What is the probable failure - no BSOD, no event log, monitors sleeping, force reboot required

  - by Tyler

  Every 3 to 15 days, my PC freezes. This typically happens when the computer is idle, I'm coming home from work, back from vacation, etc. It's never happened while using my computer. The monitors are in power save mode The Caps Lock light on the (wireless) keyboard doesn't work Ctrl-alt-del has no effect, mouse (wireless) has no effect The hardware reset button and single press of power putton have no effect Computer does not appear on the network No BSOD, no memory dump Event logs have no errors or indications of problems near the time of crash. Only messages after reboot indicating that there was a reboot without a clean shutdown. Windows is set to never put the computer to sleep (just the display) Here are the vital stats of the build: OS Windows 8 Pro 64-bit CPU Intel i5-2400 Mobo Intel BOXDP67DE Micro ATX GPU MSI N460GTX Cyclone768D5/OC RAM CORSAIR XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 PSU SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold System Drive Samsung 840 Pro 256 GB SSD Data Drive 2 x Western Digital WD20EARS 2TB in hardware RAID 1 Optical Lite-On DVD burner IHAS424-98 And here is the story of how the problem developed and what I've done to diagnose: January 2011, system built with Windows 7 64-bit, runs great. March 2011, Intel replaced the mobo because of the bad sata controllers. October 2012, upgrade to Windows 8 (problems start shortly after). January 2013, system freezes and causes network to fail for the whole house. Unplug the network cable and other devices and PCs can use the internet. Plug it back in, internet goes away for everyone. Reboot and everything is fine. March 2013, install Intel Gigabit CT PCI-E NIC, disable mobo nic in bios. Network strangeness goes away. Freezes are less frequent. Memtest shows no problems (20 passes). Early June 2013, replace Antec PSU with SeaSonic PSU. Mid June 2013, replace OCZ Vertex 2 SSD with Samsung SSD. Late June 2013, get frustrated and hope the community has some good ideas (I'm running out of budget to replace parts). My next plan of attack is setting "Turn off display" to Never and using a screen saver to see how that reacts on the next freeze. It makes me sad to waste power for up to 15 days though. Has anyone out there seen a problem like this? Any ideas on what kind of malfunction would act this way? Ideas of other diagnostic steps to take?

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• Cooling Server Rack with Water? Sensible? Reuse energy for small installation?

  - by TomTom

  First - this is not a shopping question, this is not so much about concrete prices but about general feasibility. Makes no sense to get looking fo ra manufacturer it the approach is bad. I am moving my company to new Offices in September, and among them we will expand and consolidate our number crunch cluster. It is so far in a data center. I have a nice room in the basement prepared now. I think about cooling. We will likely run up a power usage of around 10kw by end of the year. That is a LOT of stuff, and cooling will be expensive. I am located in south Poland, close to the German border. This is an area where water is available for relatively cheap price - "wasting water" is not a concern here. My situation is thus a lot different for example than in Spain ;) Physics tells me that to heat 1 liter of water by 1 degree I use 1 Calorie (1KCal), and a kwh power is (and we can assume 100% efficiency - water heaters are pretty efficient) 750 Calories. That means that 1 KWH is 750 liter by 1 degree. 10kw and a 20 degree heat would mean that per hour I need 375 liters. That is 6.25 liters per minute and not WHAT much ;) We talk 270 cubic meters here. Even in summer, the significant underground pipes really cool down the water a LOT more ;) Question: This such an approach feasible? Anyone done that? We talk of a 10kw installation for now. Is it feasible to reuse that heat? The alternative is a decent cooling system that WILL use around 2.5kwh for running. Dropping the water would basically (a) get me a quite cold input compared to the outside air even in summer (I.e. a lower temperature medium to drop the heat in) and (b) replace the need to actually have the outside cooling (which may b problematic - if the air is 22 degree, that is a LOT to fight off, but OTOH the water will be quite cold). I also would possibly save the investment for the outside part of the cooling circuit. Now, second question - is there a feasible way to heat a house with that? ;) After all, brutally speaking, it is a LOT of energy in that water ;) If it is a bad idea, I stop here - if it is not, I start looking for suppliers. Maybe my math is wrong?

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