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  • Problem virtualizing Ubuntu 10.04 32 bit on VirtualBox 3.1 on Windows Vista 64 bit

    - by Adam Siddhi
    Software & Hardware Setup Host System : Windows Vista Home Premium SP1 64 bit Guest : Ubuntu 10.04 (ubuntu-10.04-desktop-i386.iso) 32 bit VM : VirtualBox 3.1.8 Hardware : Intel Core 2 Duo T6400 4GB SDRAM What Happened I followed the tutorial called Installing Ubuntu inside Windows using VirtualBox located here: www.psychocats.net/ubuntu/virtualbox At first I downloaded ubuntu-10.04-desktop-amd64.iso because I figured that it would be a perfect fit with my Vista 64 OS. I was wrong because it turns out the my Intel Core 2 Duo T6400 CPU does not have Intel® Virtualization Technology. So I had to go with the ubuntu-10.04-desktop-i386.iso which is 32 bit. This got me to the point where I could actually create the Ubuntu VM. So I set up the VM in VirtualBox (according to the tutorial I was following) to prepare for the Ubuntu 10.04 virtualization. Please go to my Picassa web album to see the screen shots of my VM settings and Ubuntu boot process so you can see what I experienced (they appear in the order that I experienced them in). www.picasaweb.google.com/rubysiddhi/ProblemVirtualizingUbuntu100432BitOnVirtualBox31OnWindowsVista64# The first 17 images show the VM settings. The last 8 show my attempt at virtualizing Ubuntu 10.04. You can see booting up but ultimately failing. The Specifics The one error message I got was: (process:210): GLib-WARNING **: getpwuid_r(): failed due to unknown user id (0) It appeared on a black screen that sort of looked like a Windows console screen but with out the c:\ or the ability to type. Then this error message got more complex when tons of text appeared in the screen. Pictures 23 - 25 in the album show this text. I should also mention that I found this post in the Ubuntu forums by zonination who seemed to have similar problems to mine even though they had a different set up. The main issue I think zonination and me may be having is the fact that we can not change the color mode to 32 bit while it is booting. I think the 16 bit color mode maybe making Ubuntu fail. Not certain though. Well I hope I explained my problem thoroughly and clearly. Thanks for the tutorial. It got me started but, now I hope to finish this process so I can start developing in Ubuntu. OH by the way if you want to actually see what happened play by play (with some classical in the background) check out the video I made over here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMbbm5E_0Xw Thanks! Regards, Adam

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  • What is a good layout for a somewhat advanced home network and storage solution?

    - by Shaun
    My home network/storage needs are changing and I am searching for some opinions and starting points on what a good network/storage layout would be that can serve my needs for a few years into the future. I think I have a decent starting point for equipment, but I am also willing to invest fairly heavily in a solution that can last me for a while. I am a bit of a tech nerd and I have a moderate tolerance for setup of the solution. I would prefer if maintenance of the system is somewhat low once it is setup, but I am willing to accept some tradeoffs. Existing equipment: Router - Netgear WNDR3700 (gigabit) Router - DLink Gamerlounge DGL-4300 (gigabit) Switch - 16 port Trendnet green switch (gigabit) Switch - 5 port Trendnet green (gigabit) Computer - i7-950 office computer (gigabit ethernet) Computer - Q6600 quad core media center, hooked up to TV, records shows (gigabit ethernet) Computer - Acer 1810T ultraportable laptop (gigabit and N ethernet) NAS - Intel SS4200-E (gigabit) External hard drive - 2TB WD Green drive (esata) All kinds of miscellaneous network connected TV, Bluray, Verizon network extender, HDhomerun TV tuners, etc. Requirements: -Robust backup solution for a growing collection of huge family picture files and personal files, around 1.5TB. (Including offsite backup) -Central location for all user's files, while also keeping them secure from each other. -Storage for terabytes of movie backups and recorded TV, and access to them from all computers (maybe around 4TB eventually) -Possibility to host files to friends and family easily Nice to have: -Backup of terabytes of movie backups Intriguing possibilities: -Capability to have users' Windows desktops and files look the same from all network computers I am not sure if the new Windows Home Server 2011 would fit into this well, if I need a domain server, how best to organize my backups, or how to most effectively use RAID. Currently I am simply backing up all computers to a RAID 1 on the NAS box, which I was thinking could prevent a situation where I reach for a backup and find that the disk is corrupt. One possibility that I am thinking about now is simply using my media center PC with a huge RAID of hard drives on which all files are stored. Pseudo-backup of all files would be present because of the RAID, but important files would also be backed up off site via carrying hard drives to work. But what if corruption seeps into the files and the corrupted data is then backed up? Does RAID protect against this? I really want to take next to zero risks with the irreplaceable files. I can handle some degree of risk with the movies and other files. I'm looking for critiques on this idea as well as other possibilities. To summarize, my goal is high functionality, media capable, and robust backup of irreplaceable files.

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  • XP OEM licensing when reinstalling Windows XP

    - by mindas
    My wife has managed to buy a Dell laptop she was using at her ex-employer that just went bust. The problem with it is the OS (Windows XP) which takes ages to boot and is generally disproportionally slow to the hardware of the machine. So my aim is to sacrifice a day and reinstall it. The problem I am slightly worried about is the licensing/registration/activation hell. Apart from the sticker (with WinXP license key), the laptop has no other paperwork proving this license is legitimate. I believe this was originally an OEM license. Unfortunately, I don't have the the installation CD. This computer also has MS Office installed (which I would like to retain) but it none of MS Office apps would launch due to some obscure error complaining about lack of free disk space (which computer has plenty of). I have absolutely no clue what kind of license this MS Office was. And because the company has gone into the administration, there is no way of getting this information nor installable media. I believe that by buying the hardware I have also acquired the software which I can use as I see fit. Correct me if I'm wrong. Above said, my question would be: What is the easiest way of reinstalling the XP? By easiest I mean avoiding spending my time to prove Microsoft support I've got the right to use the software (insert your computer says noooo joke here) but still being able to get to fresh virgin activated legal state of the XP. I used to work as a sysadmin many years ago so I am not afraid of any technical difficulties. The same question applies to MS Office. I imagine the process would consist of backing up all the data, pulling some bits from the registry and using that on the fresh install. As for reinstall I'd expect to use some sort of OEM Windows repair CD from Dell, right? Are those freely available? My other box (HP) has such a thing and it can't be used on any other brand. I'm sure somebody had to go through this licensing hell and could share his/her tips. Thanks in advance.

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  • Gateway GT5220 Boot/POST Failure

    - by John Rudy
    I have a Gateway GT5220 I'm troubleshooting. It is, in fact, the machine I just gave my father for his birthday a couple months ago. (Prior to that, it was my home PC. My home PC is now the MacBook on which I'm writing this.) Before going any further, I suspect that the answer will be, "It's worse than that, it's dead, Jim, it's dead, Jim, it's dead, Jim." At least, mobo and/or CPU. The initial symptoms were as follows: Turn on power All fans fire up (thus making it so I can't hear if the hard drive is spinning or not, nor are my hands sensitive enough anymore to feel it) No LEDs remained lit on the front panel. (Initially, the hard drive indicator flashed briefly.) No beep, no video, no nothing. Following some advice I found here, I tried to "drain the stored power." After following those steps, the new symptoms were: Turn on power All fans fire up The front panel LEDs remained lit! After about 20, maybe 30 seconds, we had video! Sort of. We got to the Gateway splash/POST screen, which appeared thoroughly corrupted. How corrupted? Well, I imagine it's what a POST screen would look like after reading the wrong passage out of the Necronomicon: It stayed there. I gave it at least 5, maybe 6 minutes, and it didn't move. So I shut her down, started her up again, and now (this is where we currently stand, symptomatically) we have this: Turn on power All fans fire up The front panel LEDs remain lit No video, no beep, no nothing. I'm a software guy; haven't done real hardware troubleshooting in years. My gut tells me that the mobo and/or CPU is fried, and unfortunately my gut didn't get to be as big as it is being wrong all the time. :( In addition to the link above, I have read all of the following (trying to save you some LMGTFY trouble): Gateway Support POST Error Messages and Handling About a zillion (useless) POST beep code sites A kioskea.net post indicating that most likely we're at what I consider "total loss" (mobo and/or CPU) My questions: Are there any conditions other than mobo/CPU that could cause symptoms like these? Is it worth my time to try the next hardware troubleshooting step?(IE, remove all non-critical hardware from the machine, try to boot, systematically replace one by one until we find the failing component) Which mobos will fit in the Gateway GT5220 case (with rear ports correctly aligned)? (Why this is not a dupe: I wouldn't have posted this question if it hadn't been for the funkadelic possessed video display on the one occasion we got video out. I think that justified this not being an exact dupe. Of course, if the community overrules, I will understand.)

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  • XP OEM licensing when reinstalling Windows XP

    - by mindas
    My wife has managed to buy a Dell laptop she was using at her ex-employer that just went bust. The problem with it is the OS (Windows XP) which takes ages to boot and is generally disproportionally slow to the hardware of the machine. So my aim is to sacrifice a day and reinstall it. The problem I am slightly worried about is the licensing/registration/activation hell. Apart from the sticker (with WinXP license key), the laptop has no other paperwork proving this license is legitimate. I believe this was originally an OEM license. Unfortunately, I don't have the the installation CD. This computer also has MS Office installed (which I would like to retain) but it none of MS Office apps would launch due to some obscure error complaining about lack of free disk space (which computer has plenty of). I have absolutely no clue what kind of license this MS Office was. And because the company has gone into the administration, there is no way of getting this information nor installable media. I believe that by buying the hardware I have also acquired the software which I can use as I see fit. Correct me if I'm wrong. Above said, my question would be: What is the easiest way of reinstalling the XP? By easiest I mean avoiding spending my time to prove Microsoft support I've got the right to use the software (insert your computer says noooo joke here) but still being able to get to fresh virgin activated legal state of the XP. I used to work as a sysadmin many years ago so I am not afraid of any technical difficulties. The same question applies to MS Office. I imagine the process would consist of backing up all the data, pulling some bits from the registry and using that on the fresh install. As for reinstall I'd expect to use some sort of OEM Windows repair CD from Dell, right? Are those freely available? My other box (HP) has such a thing and it can't be used on any other brand. I'm sure somebody had to go through this licensing hell and could share his/her tips. Thanks in advance.

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  • networking tunnel adapter connections?

    - by Karthik Balaguru
    I understand that Tunnel Adapter LAN is for encapsulating IPv6 packets with an IPv4 header so that they can be sent across an IPv4 network. Few queries popped up in my mind based on this :- If i do 'ipconfig', Apart from ethernet adapter LAN details, I get a series of statments as below - Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 6 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 7 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 12 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 13 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 14 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 15 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 16 Except for the *16, all the other Tunnel Adapter Local Area Connections show Media Disconnected. Why is the numbering for the Tunnel adapter LAN not sequential? It is like 6, 7, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. A strange numbering scheme! I tried to figure it out by thinking of some arithmetic series. But, it does not seem to fit in. There is a huge gap between 7 and 12. Any ideas? What is the need for so many Tunnel Adapter LAN connections? Can you tell me a scenario that requires all of those ? I did ipconfig /all to get more information. From the listing, I understand that: 16, 15, 14, 12 are Microsoft 6to4 Adapters 13, 6 are isatap Adapters 7 is Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-interface I understand that the above are for automatic tunneling so that the tunnel endpoints are determined automatically by the routing infrastructure. 6to4 is recommended by RFC3056 for automatic tunneling that uses protocol 41 for encapsulation. It is typically used when an end-user wants to connect to the IPv6 Internet using their existing IPv4 connection. Teredo is an automatic tunneling technique that uses UDP encapsulation across multiple NATs. That is, It is to grant IPv6 connectivity to nodes that are located behind IPv6-unaware NAT devices ISATAP treats the IPv4 network as a virtual IPv6 local link, with mappings from each IPv4 address to a link-local IPv6 address. That is to transmit IPv6 packets between dual-stack nodes on top of an IPv4 network. That is, to put in simple words, ISATAP is an intra-site mechanism, while the 6to4 and Teredo are for inter-site tunnelling mechanisms. It seems that Teredo should alone enabled by default in Vista, But my system does not show it to be enabled by default. Interestingly, it shows a 6to4 tunnel adapter (Tunnel adapter LAN connection 16) to be enabled by default? Any specific reasons for it? If i do ipconfig /all, why is only one Teredo present while four 6to4 are present ? I searched the internet for answers to the above queries, but I am unable to find clear answers.

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  • networking tunnel adapter connections?

    - by Karthik Balaguru
    I understand that Tunnel Adapter LAN is for encapsulating IPv6 packets with an IPv4 header so that they can be sent across an IPv4 network. Few queries popped up in my mind based on this :- If i do 'ipconfig', Apart from ethernet adapter LAN details, I get a series of statments as below - Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 6 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 7 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 12 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 13 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 14 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 15 Tunnel adapter Local Area Connection* 16 Except for the *16, all the other Tunnel Adapter Local Area Connections show Media Disconnected. Why is the numbering for the Tunnel adapter LAN not sequential? It is like 6, 7, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16. A strange numbering scheme! I tried to figure it out by thinking of some arithmetic series. But, it does not seem to fit in. There is a huge gap between 7 and 12. Any ideas? What is the need for so many Tunnel Adapter LAN connections? Can you tell me a scenario that requires all of those ? I did ipconfig /all to get more information. From the listing, I understand that: 16, 15, 14, 12 are Microsoft 6to4 Adapters 13, 6 are isatap Adapters 7 is Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-interface I understand that the above are for automatic tunneling so that the tunnel endpoints are determined automatically by the routing infrastructure. 6to4 is recommended by RFC3056 for automatic tunneling that uses protocol 41 for encapsulation. It is typically used when an end-user wants to connect to the IPv6 Internet using their existing IPv4 connection. Teredo is an automatic tunneling technique that uses UDP encapsulation across multiple NATs. That is, It is to grant IPv6 connectivity to nodes that are located behind IPv6-unaware NAT devices ISATAP treats the IPv4 network as a virtual IPv6 local link, with mappings from each IPv4 address to a link-local IPv6 address. That is to transmit IPv6 packets between dual-stack nodes on top of an IPv4 network. That is, to put in simple words, ISATAP is an intra-site mechanism, while the 6to4 and Teredo are for inter-site tunnelling mechanisms. It seems that Teredo should alone enabled by default in Vista, But my system does not show it to be enabled by default. Interestingly, it shows a 6to4 tunnel adapter (Tunnel adapter LAN connection 16) to be enabled by default? Any specific reasons for it? If i do ipconfig /all, why is only one Teredo present while four 6to4 are present ? I searched the internet for answers to the above queries, but I am unable to find clear answers.

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  • Why is my new Phenom II 965 BE not significantly faster than my old Athlon 64 X2 4600+?

    - by Software Monkey
    I recently rebuilt my 5 year old computer. I upgraded all core components, in particular from an Athlon 64 X2 4600+ at 2.4 GHz with DDR2 800 to a Phenom II 965 BE (quad core) at 3.6 GHz with DDR3 1333 (actually 1600, but testing consistently detected memory errors at 1600). The motherboard is also much newer and better. The HDD's (x3), DVD writer and card reader are the same. The BIOS memory config is auto-everything except the base timing which I overrode to 1T instead of 2T. The BIOS CPU multiplier is slightly over-clocked to 3.6 GHz from the stock 3.4 GHz. I noticed compiling Java is slower than I expected. As it happens I have some (single-threaded) Java pattern-matching code which is CPU and memory bound and for which I have performance numbers recorded on a number of hardware platforms, including my old system. So I did a test run on the new equipment and was stunned to find that the numbers are only slightly better than my old system, about 25%. The data set it is operating on is a 148,975 character array, which should easily fit in caches, but in any event the new CPU has larger caches all around. The system was, of course, otherwise idle for the test and the test run is a timed 10 seconds to eliminate scheduling anomalies. A long while ago, when I upgraded only memory from DD2 667 to DDR2 800 there was no change in performance of this test, which subjectively supports that the test cycle does not need to (significantly) access main memory, but yes it is creating and garbage collecting a large number of objects in the process of this test (low millions of matches are found for the pattern set). I am about 99.999% certain the code hasn't changed since I last ran it on 2009-03-17 - but I can't easily retest the old hardware, because it is currently in pieces on my work-bench waiting to be built into a new computer for my kids. Note that Windows (XP) reports a CPU speed of 795 MHz unless I have some thing running. With stuff running it seems to jump all over the place each time I use ALT-Pause to display the system properties, everywhere from 795 MHz to 3.4 Ghz. So why might my shiny new hardware under-performing so badly? EDIT: The old memory was Mushkin DDR2 800 with timings set for auto which should have been 5-5-5-12. The new memory is Corsair DDR3 1600, running at 1333 with timings also auto which are 9-9-9-21. In both cases they are a paired set of dual channel DIMMs. I was waiting to ensure my system was stable before tweaking with memory timings.

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  • How could I let Skydrive desktop sync to MicroSD in Windows 8 tablet?

    - by peSHIr
    I have a Samsung Slate 7 tablet with (now) Windows 8 on it. This machine has a 64 Gb SSD and I have a 64 Gb MicroSD card in it. I also have a Skydrive on my main Microsoft ID that contains about 45 Gb of content. With Windows and some development stuff installed, my Skydrive will not fit on the main drive of the tablet. (Besides, my idea was to keep data on the memory card anyway, to make it easier to repave the machine without data loss if need be.) My problem should now be clear: I want to install the Skydrive desktop app to sync my Skydrive to the MicroSD card. This is not possible, as Skydrive does not allow syncing files to removable drives. I have tried a number of things already, but none of them worked: Use the mklink command line tool to create a directory link/junction from a folder name on SSD to a folder on the MicroSD and then try to install Skydrive sync to the SSD link folder. Skydrive however still recognizes this as something it does not want to sync onto. The various different filter drivers mentioned on Agnipulse (including the Hitachi one) that should make windows see some or all of the removable drives in the system as fixed drives do not seem work on (64-bit) Windows 8: they either can't be installed, do nothing and/or cause Windows 8 to go into Automatic Repair mode when rebooting. The Lexar BootIt app seems to be meant to flip the relevant bit in the on-board drive controller of supported USB pen drives, but I tried it anyway. Of course it did nothing to how the MicroSD card was seen. I have now run out of ideas, it seems, and I was wondering if anyone here has a solution to let Windows 8 see the MicroSD memory card in my tablet as a fixed drive instead of removable drive, or some other way of getting the Skydrive desktop to sync my Skydrive data to that MicroSD card. And to be complete: this is not a duplicate question of this or this as those ask about getting USB drives multiple partitions to work on Windows XP. This question is specific about getting desktop Skydrive to sync to MicroSD card in Windows 8, which seems to be a question I have not seen on superuser so far.

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  • Netcat file transfer problem

    - by thepurplepixel
    I have two custom scripts I just wrote to facilitate transferring files between my VPS and my home server. They are both written in bash (short & sweet): To send: #!/bin/bash SENDFILE=$1 PORT=$2 HOST='<my house>' HOSTIP=`host $HOST | grep "has address" | cut --delimiter=" " -f 4` echo Transferring file \"$SENDFILE\" to $HOST \($HOSTIP\). tar -c "$SENDFILE" | pv -c -N tar -i 0.5 | lzma -z -c -6 | pv -c -N lzma -i 0.5 | nc -q 1 $HOSTIP $PORT echo Done. To receive: #!/bin/bash SERVER='<myserver>' SERVERIP=`host $SERVER | grep "has address" | cut --delimiter=" " -f 4` PORT=$1 echo Receiving file from $SERVER \($SERVERIP\) on port $PORT. nc -l $PORT | pv -c -N netcat -i 0.5 | lzma -d -c | pv -c -N lzma -i 0.5 | tar -xf - echo Done. The problem is that, for a very quick second, I see something flash along the lines of "Connection Refused" (before pv overwrites it), and no file is ever transferred. The port is forwarded through my router, and nmap confirms it: ~$ sudo nmap -sU -PN -p55515 -v <my house> Starting Nmap 5.00 ( http://nmap.org ) at 2010-04-21 18:10 EDT NSE: Loaded 0 scripts for scanning. Initiating Parallel DNS resolution of 1 host. at 18:10 Completed Parallel DNS resolution of 1 host. at 18:10, 0.00s elapsed Initiating UDP Scan at 18:10 Scanning 74.13.25.94 [1 port] Completed UDP Scan at 18:10, 2.02s elapsed (1 total ports) Host 74.13.25.94 is up. Interesting ports on 74.13.25.94: PORT STATE SERVICE 55515/udp open|filtered unknown Read data files from: /usr/share/nmap Nmap done: 1 IP address (1 host up) scanned in 2.08 seconds Raw packets sent: 2 (56B) | Rcvd: 5 (260B) Also, running netcat normally doesn't work either: squircle@summit:~$ netcat <my house> 55515 <my house> [<my IP>] 55515 (?) : Connection refused Both boxes are Ubuntu Karmic (9.10). The receiver has no firewall, and outbound traffic on that port is allowed on the sender. I have no idea what to troubleshoot next. Any ideas? P.S.: Feel free to move this to SO/SF if you feel it would fit better there.

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  • A dusty server room

    - by pauska
    Here's the story.. The owners of the building we lease office space from decided to do a renovation of the exterior. This involved in some pretty heavy work at the level where our server room is, including exchanging windows wich are fit inside a concrete wall. My red alert went off when I heard that they were going to do the same thing with our server room (yes, our server room has a window. We're a small shop with 3 racks. The window is secured with steel bars.) I explicity told the contractor that they need to put up a temporarily wall between our racks and the original wall - and to make sure that the temporary wall is 100 % air and water-tight. They promised to do so. The temporary wall has a small door in it, so that workers can go in/out through the day (through our server room, wich was the only option....). On several occasions I could find the small door half-way shut while working evenings/nights. I locked the door, and thought that they would hopefully get the point soon and keep the door shut. I even gave a electrician a mouthful when I saw that he didn't close the door properly. By this point - I bet that most of you get a picture of what happened. Yes, they probably left the door open while drilling in the concrete. I present you our 4 weeks old EMC VNX: I'll even put in a little bonus, here is the APC UPS one rack further away from the temporary wall. See the nice little landing strip from my finger? What should I do? The only thing that comes to mind is to either call all our suppliers (EMC, HP, Dell, Cisco) and get them to send technicians to check out all the gear in the server room, or get some kind of certified 3rd-party consulant to check all of it. Would you run production systems on this gear? How long? Edit: I should also note that our aircondition isn't exactly enterprise-grade, given the nature of our small room. It's just a single inverter, wich have failed one time before I started working here (failed inverters usually leads to water dripping out).

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  • HOW TO Convert DVD to iPad(Also converts to iPods)?

    - by goodm
    DVD to iPad Converter (Also converts to iPods) DVD to iPad Converter is the easiest-to-use and fastest DVD to iPad converter for Apple iPad movie and iPad video. It can convert almost any kind of DVD to iPad movie or iPad video format. It is also a powerful DVD to iPad converter with a conversion speed that is much faster than real-time. With this converter, you can use your iPad as a portable DVD player and enjoy your favorite DVDs on your iPad. http://www.softseeking.com/prodail.aspx?proid=83" Features of this DVD to iPad Converter Three Running Modes --In Direct Mode, you can directly click the DVD menu to select the movie you want to rip. This mode is very easy for ripping DVD movies. --In Batch Mode, you can select the DVD titles or chapters you want to rip via a checkbox list. This mode is very easy for batch ripping music DVDs, MTV DVDs and episodic DVDs. --In 1-Click Mode, you just need one click to open a DVD, after which the rest of the task will be done automatically. This is a “designed-for-dummies” mode. Input Types You can convert almost any kind of DVD format to iPad. Output Splitting You can split your output video by DVD chapters and titles. Fully supports MTV DVDs and episodic DVDs. File Size and Quality Adjustment You can customize the output file size and corresponding video quality. Flexible Output Profiles You can easily customize the various video settings such as brightness, bit rate, etc. Language Selection for Subtitles and Audio Track In Direct mode and in Batch mode, you can select the subtitle and audio track language. (In 1-Click mode, the default language is chosen automatically). Video Crop You can crop your video to 16:9, 4:3, full screen, etc. Video Resize You can resize your video. For example, you can set it to "Keep aspect ratio" or "Stretch to fit screen." Other Converts DVD to MP3 audio. Supports Dolby, DTS Surround audio track. Converts to the latest iPhone, 4th generation iPad nano, nano chromatic, 2nd generation iPad touch, and Apple TV.

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  • Looking for app to work fluidly with CSV data in graph form

    - by Aszurom
    It often occurs to me that if I had a good tool for viewing CSV data in graphical format, and comparing two sets of numbers to each other, I could do a great deal of meaningful trend watching and data interpretation. For example, perfmon can output quite a lot of data about a server into a CSV file, but there's no good way to view it. A lot of scripts could/have been written that would populate CSV files. I could write these all day long. My problem is that I need a great viewer. I've seen quite a few things that will take a CSV file and after a lot of tweaking and user adjustment produce a static gif/png image. A static image doesn't do me a lot of good, because I have to look at it, then re-calibrate the parameters of the program, regenerate the image, repeat. That sucks. I could do this in Excel. Ideally, I would want a FLUID graph viewer. On the fly, I can adjust how much of my timeline I'm viewing. I could adjust the scaling so that one big spike doesn't make 99.9% of the data an unreadable line across the bottom of the X axis. Stuff like that. I should be able to say "show me CSV column 3 and column 5 as graphs. Show me the data scaled for 20 or 150 entries, and let me slide that window up and down the column of data. Auto scale to fit 95% of data within the Y axis and let crazy spikes go off the screen." Maybe I'm terribly spoiled by how you can drag, zoom, and slide data around on my iPad. I want to be able to view a spreadsheet of data with that fluidity and not have to guess at what sort of static snapshot I want to create from it. I don't want to have to make a study of how to tweak some data plotting program to let me import my file and do what I could just do in Excel. I want to scale, zoom, and transform my graph on the fly and then export a snapshot of it once I have it the way I want it. Is there anything out there that fills this need? I'll take linux, osx, win32 or even iOS suggestions.

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  • libreadline history lines combine

    - by jettero
    This has been driving me crazy for about three years. I don't know how to fully describe the problem, but I think I can finally describe a way to recreate it. Your milage may vary. I have a mixture of ubuntu server and desktop machines of various versions and a few gentoo machines with various states of disrepair. They all seem to kindof do their own thing, although with similarities. Try this and let me know if you see the same thing. pop open two xterms (TERM=xterm) resize one so they're not the same issue screen -R test1 in one (TERM=screen) and screen -x test1 in the other hooray, typing in one shows up in the other; although notice that their different size produces artifacts and things issue a couple commands in your shell hit ^AF in the one that doesn't fit quite right, now it fits!! scroll back over the history a little goto 6 Eventually you'll notice a couple history lines combine. If you don't, then it's something unique to my setup, which spans various distributions and computers; so that's a confusing concept to me. If you see the thing I'm seeing then this: bash$ ls -al bash$ ps auxfw becomes this: bash$ ls -al; ps auxfw It doesn't happen every time. I have to really play with it — unless I don't want it to happen, then it always does. On some systems (or combinations), I get a line separator like the example above. On some systems, I do not. That I get the line separator on some systems seems to indicate to me that bash supports this behavior. Its history is entirely handled by libreadline and after perusing (ie, carefully reading) the man pages, I couldn't find a single readline setting for combining two history lines. Nor can I find anything in the bash manpage. So, how can I invoke this on purpose? Or, if I can't do that, how can I disable it completely? I would take either answer as a solution. Currently, I only see it when I don't want it.

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  • Creating a network link between 2 very close buildings

    - by Daniel Johnson
    I have a charity who have two adjacent medium sized modern detached houses (in the UK): the buildings stand next to each other and are less than 5 metres apart. They have DSL connected to a single computer in one of the buildings. They want to add a network with wireless, and want it to work across both buildings. Being a charity they need to keep costs down. The network would be used for sharing Word documents, e-mail, browsing and skyping. My initial thoughts were to connect the buildings with fibre. So: Option 1 Use fibre between the buildings. Sufficient cable and two TP-LINK MC100CM Fast Ethernet Media Converters. Cost ~£80.00. But there is the extra cost and hassle of running the cable down and up the external walls, lifting and relaying paving, and burying underground. Never having fitted fibre I'm also a little worried about going up the wall and then bending the cable at 90 degrees to go through the wall and into the building. Option 2 Use two TP-Link TL-WA7510N High Powered Outdoor 5Ghz 15dBi Wireless antennas to connect the buildings. There is a clear line of sight at first floor level. Cost ~£100. And much easier to fit than fibre! Is using the TL-WA7510Ns overkill? Is there something more suitable? I had hoped to use some Netgear stuff, e.g. two DGN2200, one in each house and also use them to provide the wireless link between the buildings. However, in bridge mode wireless client association is not available and repeater mode with client association only supports WEP security which isn't strong enough. Is there something similar that would be up to the job? Option 3 Connect the buildings with UTP cable. My concerns here are risk of electric shock due to a difference of potential between the buildings (or are they so close this shouldn't be an issue) and protection from lightning strikes. Is fitting lighting arrestors expensive? And what can be done to ameliorate against the risk of shock? This all falls outside my area of expertise so I would really appreciate some advice.

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  • Is there a Distributed SAN/Storage System out there?

    - by Joel Coel
    Like many other places, we ask our users not to save files to their local machines. Instead, we encourage that they be put on a file server so that others (with appropriate permissions) can use them and that the files are backed up properly. The result of this is that most users have large hard drives that are sitting mainly empty. It's 2010 now. Surely there is a system out there that lets you turn that empty space into a virtual SAN or document library? What I envision is a client program that is pushed out to users' PCs that coordinates with a central server. The server looks to users just like a normal file server, but instead of keeping entire file contents it merely keeps a record of where those files can be found among various user PCs. It then coordinates with the right clients to serve up file requests. The client software would be able to respond to such requests directly, as well as be smart enough to cache recent files locally. For redundancy the server could make sure files are copied to multiple PCs, perhaps allowing you to define groups in different locations so that an instance of the entire repository lives in each group to protect against a disaster in one building taking down everything else. Obviously you wouldn't point your database server here, but for simpler things I see several advantages: Files can often be transferred from a nearer machine. Disk space grows automatically as your company does. Should ultimately be cheaper, as you don't need to keep a separate set of disks I can see a few downsides as well: Occasional degradation of user pc performance, if the machine has to serve or accept a large file transfer during a busy period. Writes have to be propogated around the network several times (though I suspect this isn't really much of a problem, as reading happens in most places more than writing) Still need a way to send a complete copy of the data offsite occasionally, and this would make it very hard to do differentials Think of this like a cloud storage system that lives entirely within your corporate LAN and makes use of your existing user equipment. Our old main file server is due for retirement in about 2 years, and I'm looking into replacing it with a small SAN. I'm thinking something like this would be a better fit. As a school, we have a couple computer labs I can leave running that would be perfect for adding a little extra redundancy to the system. Unfortunately, the closest thing I can find is Dienst, and it's just a paper that dates back to 1994. Am I just using the wrong buzzwords in my searches, or does this really not exist? If not, is there a big downside that I'm missing?

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  • nginx+django serving static files

    - by avalore
    I have followed instruction for setting up django with nginx from the django wiki (https://code.djangoproject.com/wiki/DjangoAndNginx) and have nginx setup as follows (a few name changes to fit my setup). user nginx nginx; worker_processes 2; error_log /var/log/nginx/error_log info; events { worker_connections 1024; use epoll; } http { include /etc/nginx/mime.types; default_type application/octet-stream; log_format main '$remote_addr - $remote_user [$time_local] ' '"$request" $status $bytes_sent ' '"$http_referer" "$http_user_agent" ' '"$gzip_ratio"'; client_header_timeout 10m; client_body_timeout 10m; send_timeout 10m; connection_pool_size 256; client_header_buffer_size 1k; large_client_header_buffers 4 2k; request_pool_size 4k; gzip on; gzip_min_length 1100; gzip_buffers 4 8k; gzip_types text/plain; output_buffers 1 32k; postpone_output 1460; sendfile on; tcp_nopush on; tcp_nodelay on; keepalive_timeout 75 20; ignore_invalid_headers on; index index.html; server { listen 80; server_name localhost; location /static/ { root /srv/static/; } location ~* ^.+\.(jpg|jpeg|gif|png|ico|css|zip|tgz|gz|rar|bz2|doc|xls|exe|pdf|ppt|txt|tar|mid|midi|wav|bmp|rtf|js|mov) { access_log off; expires 30d; } location / { # host and port to fastcgi server fastcgi_pass 127.0.0.1:8080; fastcgi_param PATH_INFO $fastcgi_script_name; fastcgi_param REQUEST_METHOD $request_method; fastcgi_param QUERY_STRING $query_string; fastcgi_param CONTENT_TYPE $content_type; fastcgi_param CONTENT_LENGTH $content_length; fastcgi_pass_header Authorization; fastcgi_intercept_errors off; fastcgi_param REMOTE_ADDR $remote_addr; } access_log /var/log/nginx/localhost.access_log main; error_log /var/log/nginx/localhost.error_log; } } Static files aren't being served (nginx 404). If I look in the access log it seems nginx is looking in /etc/nginx/html/static... rather than /srv/static/ as specified in the config. I've no clue why it's doing this, any help would be hugely appreciated.

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  • Software Raid 10 corrupted superblock after dual disk failure, how do I recover it?

    - by Shoshomiga
    I have a software raid 10 with 6 x 2tb hard drives (raid 1 for /boot), ubuntu 10.04 is the os. I had a raid controller failure that put 2 drives out of sync, crashed the system and initially the os didnt boot up and went into initramfs instead, saying that drives were busy but I eventually managed to bring the raid up by stopping and assembling the drives. The os booted up and said that there were filesystem errors, I chose to ignore because it would remount the fs in read-only mode if there was a problem. Everything seemed to be working fine and the 2 drives started to rebuild, I was sure that it was a sata controller failure because I had dma errors in my log files. The os crashed soon after that with ext errors. Now its not bringing up the raid, it says that there is no superblock on /dev/sda2, even if I assemble manually with all the device names. I also did a memtest and changed the motherboard in addition to everything else. EDIT: This is my partition layout Disk /dev/sdb: 2000.4 GB, 2000398934016 bytes 255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 243201 cylinders, total 3907029168 sectors Units = sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk identifier: 0x0009c34a Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System /dev/sdb1 * 2048 511999 254976 83 Linux /dev/sdb2 512000 3904980991 1952234496 83 Linux /dev/sdb3 3904980992 3907028991 1024000 82 Linux swap / Solaris All 6 disks have the same layout, partition #1 is for raid 1 /boot, partition #2 is for raid 10 far plan, partition #3 is swap, but sda did not have swap enabled EDIT2: This is the output of mdadm --detail /dev/md1 Layout : near=1, far=2 Chunk Size : 64k UUID : a0feff55:2018f8ff:e368bf24:bd0fce41 Events : 0.3112126 Number Major Minor RaidDevice State 0 8 34 0 spare rebuilding /dev/sdc2 1 0 0 1 removed 2 8 18 2 active sync /dev/sdb2 3 8 50 3 active sync /dev/sdd2 4 0 0 4 removed 5 8 82 5 active sync /dev/sdf2 6 8 66 - spare /dev/sde2 EDIT3: I ran ddrescue and it has copied everything from sda except a single 4096 byte sector that I suspect is the raid superblock EDIT4: Here is some more info too long to fit here lshw: http://pastebin.com/2eKrh7nF mdadm --detail /dev/sd[abcdef]1 (raid1): http://pastebin.com/cgMQWerS mdadm --detail /dev/sd[abcdef]2 (raid10): http://pastebin.com/V5dtcGPF dumpe2fs of /dev/sda2 (from the ddrescue cloned drive): http://pastebin.com/sp0GYcJG I tried to recreate md1 based on this info with the command mdadm --create /dev/md1 -v --assume-clean --level=10 --raid-devices=6 --chunk=64K --layout=f2 /dev/sda2 missing /dev/sdc2 /dev/sdd2 missing /dev/sdf2 But I can't mount it, I also tried to recreate it based on my initial mdadm --detail /dev/md1 but it still doesn't mount It also warns me that /dev/sda2 is an ext2fs file system but I guess its because of ddrescue

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  • MS DPM 2007: Testing the Recovery for a Production Domain

    - by NewToDPM
    Hi everybody! MS DPM 2007 is a new technology in my company, and so am I to the product. We have a classic Microsoft domain with two DCs, Exchange 2007 and a couple Web/MS SQL servers. I have deployed DPM one month ago on the domain, and after fixing the various issues I got with the replicas inconsistence and adapting the schedule and retention range to the server storage pool size, I can say the backup system is working correctly (no errors) as of today. However, there is one problem: we did not attempt to restore from the backups yet, which is a big no-no of course. I'm not sure about the way I should handle this, my main concern being Exchange and the System State of the DCs. From my understanding, DPM can only protect AND restore data on a server which is part of the same domain as the backup server. If I restore the System State (containing Active Directory) and the Exchange Storage Groups on a testing server, I am afraid it would completely disturb the domain functioning (for example, having two primary DCs on the domain). I am thinking about building a second DPM server on a testing separate domain which would mirror the replicas and then restore it on testing servers from this new domain. Is it the right way to handle the data recovery testing? How did you do on your domain when you first deployed DPM? I'd be grateful for any link/documentation or advice. Thank you in advance for your help! EDIT: Two options seem possible so far: i. Create another DC/Exchange server in the alternate location; ii. Create a separate domain in the alternate location and setup a trust between this domain and the production one. The option i is certainly the best but implies setting up a secondary Exchange server, with a dedicated public IP address so that if Exchange #1 dies, we can still send emails with Exchange #2. I don't know how complex this can be and would need to discuss it with my colleagues. The option ii would only fit the testing purposes. My only question regarding this is: if my production and DPM servers are part of domain A, and there is a trust between domains A and B, can I restore a domain A content to any domain B server?

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  • New-ManagedContentSettings - not working properly under Exchange 2010

    - by mfinni
    I have a client that is divesting a business unit into a new AD forest, Exchange org, etc. We're using Quest tools to migrate users and mailboxes. However, I have to build the new infrastructure to match the old one. In the old one, we're using Managed Folder Mailbox Policies to limit (or allow) retention. They started with Exchange 2007 and never upgraded to Retention Policies; oh well. So, in the old environment, when you use a 2007 server to define a new Managed Content Setting, you can pick "Email" from the dropdown for MessageClass. This is a display name; the actual MessageClass values are thus: MessageClass : IPM.Note;IPM.Note.AS/400 Move Notification Form v1.0;IPM.Note.Delayed;IPM.Note.Exchange.ActiveSync.Report;IPM.Note.JournalReport.Msg;IPM.Note.JournalReport.Tnef;IPM.Note.Microsoft.Missed.Voice;IPM.Note.Rules.OofTemplate.Microsoft;IPM.Note.Rules.ReplyTemplate.Microsoft;IPM.Note.Secure.Sign;IPM.Note.SMIME;IPM.Note.SMIME.MultipartSigned;IPM.Note.StorageQuotaWarning;IPM.Note.StorageQuotaWarning.Warning;IPM.Notification.Meeting.Forward;IPM.Outlook.Recall;IPM.Recall.Report.Success;IPM.Schedule.Meeting.*;REPORT.IPM.Note.NDR If I take that and try to mangle it into a new cmdlet for Ex2010 in my new environment here's what I get New-ManagedContentSettings -Name "Delete Messages older then 90 days" -FolderName "Entire Mailbox" -RetentionEnabled $True -AgeLimitForRetention 90 -TriggerForRetention WhenDelivered -RetentionAction DeleteAndAllowRecovery -MessageClass "IPM.Note","IPM.Note.AS/400MoveNotificationFormv1.0","IPM.Note.Delayed","IPM.Note.Exchange.ActiveSync.Report","IPM.Note.JournalReport.Msg","IPM.Note.JournalReport.Tnef","IPM.Note.Microsoft.Missed.Voice","IPM.Note.Rules.OofTemplate.Microsoft","IPM.Note.Rules.ReplyTemplate.Microsoft","IPM.Note.Secure.Sign","IPM.Note.SMIME","IPM.Note.SMIME.MultipartSigned","IPM.Note.StorageQuotaWarning","IPM.Note.StorageQuotaWarning.Warning","IPM.Notification.Meeting.Forward","IPM.Outlook.Recall","IPM.Recall.Report.Success","IPM.Schedule.Meeting.*","REPORT.IPM.Note.NDR" -whatif Invoke-Command : Cannot bind parameter 'MessageClass' to the target. Exception setting "MessageClass": "The length of t he property is too long. The maximum length is 255 and the length of the value provided is 518." At C:\Users\MFinnigan.sa\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Exchange\RemotePowerShell\pfexcas02.fve.ad.5ssl.com\pfexcas02.fve.ad .5ssl.com.psm1:28204 char:29 + $scriptCmd = { & <<<< $script:InvokeCommand ` + CategoryInfo : WriteError: (:) [New-ManagedContentSettings], ParameterBindingException + FullyQualifiedErrorId : ParameterBindingFailed,Microsoft.Exchange.Management.SystemConfigurationTasks.NewManaged ContentSettings So, the config object can store all that mess, but I can't fit it in through the cmdlet to create the object. Lovely. Any ideas?

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  • How to stretch the image from one screen to two screens

    - by wxiiir
    I want to be able to stretch the image from one monitor to a second monitor even if i have to use some software to do it. For example i want the top half of the image that is now shown on my first monitor to occupy the whole second monitor and i want the bottom half to occupy the whole first monitor, or the other way around i don't really care as long as it works. I would be cool to know how to do the same stuff but to the left half and right half. I know that image pixels would have twice the lenght or height this way but i don't really care about it as long as it works so basically i want the stuff to show on both monitors but with the same pixels as before. I have a hd4870 and windows7 and hd4000 family doesnt support having two monitors behaving like a large one, only hd5000 upwards, this would solve my problems without any of the drawbacks but it just can't be done (or maybe it can via software but i'm just too tired of searching). A solution to make almost any graphic card have two monitors behaving like a large one is matrox dualhead2go but that's just as expensive as a good hd5000 card so it's not worth it. thanks in advance EDIT I guess that nobody so far was able to fully comprehend my problem that was very explicitly written but i will elaborate some more. My hd4870 can have 2 monitors working with it but some stuff like games won't run on both monitors, which sucks. There are some ways to circumvent this problem and two of them are perfect or almost perfect but expensive and the third would be a software solution that would make it possible. The first one is to have and hd5000 family video card which will work just fine with both monitors. The second is to have a matrox dualhead2go that will make my hd4870 detect my two monitors as a large monitor. The third is to have a software that makes my two displays be detected as a large display and then captures the output of the video card, splits the images and renders them as 2d images to both monitors OR a simpler one but that would make outputted pixels double the width or height would be to capture the output of the graphics card to one screen, split it in two and enlarge it to fit both monitors and then output it to the monitors. p.s. By capturing the output of the video card i mean just make the video card process the stuff in a certain way. Making the video card detect two monitors as a large one via software may be a bit impossible or impracticable but stretching the output as a 2d image from one to both monitors for some coders should be a walk in the park so it would be likely that such program would exist or that some widespread softwares for dual monitor would have such function in them.

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  • How to move partition with Users to a new SATA controller?

    - by Al Kepp
    Our current situation: X79 chipset. Windows 7 installed on SATA SSD running on Marvell controller. C:\Users contains just Public and computer-name folders, all the other users are created in E:\Users. That partition is on two HDD's running on an Intel RAID controller. (The motherboard has got two SATA/RAID onboard controllers.) The goal is: Without reinstallation, I want to move SSD to a standard SATA controller. Then I want to get rid of RAID1, and move one HDD to the same internal Intel SATA controller and the current E:\Users move to that new place. I want it to stay as E:\users, but I need to reinstall the HDD to let it work in SATA mode without RAID. So I face several problems. I am sure all are solvable with free software utilities, but I don't know how exactly to do it. I can see the particular problems: I have got all users at E:\Users. When I turn off that E:\ disk, I won't be able to login to Windows. I need at least one admin account to be placed back at C:\users. The current C: runs on standard 120 GB SSD, but it is connected to a Marvell SATA/RAID controller. I am affraid the Windows won't let me put it to Intel SATA controller due to hardware/licence check, and I won't be able to use standard W7 recovery disk either, because there probably isn't marvel SATA/RAID driver on it. I haven't tried anything yet, because I am affraid I can end up with computer not working at all. (I want to move it to a standard ICH10 Intel SATA controller to let us have no problems in future with it. I think it is not very safe when we use any nonstandard hardware to boot the computer.) I need to somehow backup current E:\ disk and restore it to a new E:. I hope this will be the easy part (as long as the admin account will reside on C:). The E: RAID array is very large, but it is almost empty (less than 100 GB of data.) So I can make the partition smaller so it can easily fit to a single SATA HDD.

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  • UIImagePickerController, UIImage, Memory and More!

    - by Itay
    I've noticed that there are many questions about how to handle UIImage objects, especially in conjunction with UIImagePickerController and then displaying it in a view (usually a UIImageView). Here is a collection of common questions and their answers. Feel free to edit and add your own. I obviously learnt all this information from somewhere too. Various forum posts, StackOverflow answers and my own experimenting brought me to all these solutions. Credit goes to those who posted some sample code that I've since used and modified. I don't remember who you all are - but hats off to you! How Do I Select An Image From the User's Images or From the Camera? You use UIImagePickerController. The documentation for the class gives a decent overview of how one would use it, and can be found here. Basically, you create an instance of the class, which is a modal view controller, display it, and set yourself (or some class) to be the delegate. Then you'll get notified when a user selects some form of media (movie or image in 3.0 on the 3GS), and you can do whatever you want. My Delegate Was Called - How Do I Get The Media? The delegate method signature is the following: - (void)imagePickerController:(UIImagePickerController *)picker didFinishPickingMediaWithInfo:(NSDictionary *)info; You should put a breakpoint in the debugger to see what's in the dictionary, but you use that to extract the media. For example: UIImage* image = [info objectForKey:UIImagePickerControllerOriginalImage]; There are other keys that work as well, all in the documentation. OK, I Got The Image, But It Doesn't Have Any Geolocation Data. What gives? Unfortunately, Apple decided that we're not worthy of this information. When they load the data into the UIImage, they strip it of all the EXIF/Geolocation data. Can I Get To The Original File Representing This Image on the Disk? Nope. For security purposes, you only get the UIImage. How Can I Look At The Underlying Pixels of the UIImage? Since the UIImage is immutable, you can't look at the direct pixels. However, you can make a copy. The code to this looks something like this: UIImage* image = ...; // An image NSData* pixelData = (NSData*) CGDataProviderCopyData(CGImageGetDataProvider(image.CGImage)); unsigned char* pixelBytes = (unsigned char *)[pixelData bytes]; // Take away the red pixel, assuming 32-bit RGBA for(int i = 0; i < [pixelData length]; i += 4) { pixelBytes[i] = 0; // red pixelBytes[i+1] = pixelBytes[i+1]; // green pixelBytes[i+2] = pixelBytes[i+2]; // blue pixelBytes[i+3] = pixelBytes[i+3]; // alpha } However, note that CGDataProviderCopyData provides you with an "immutable" reference to the data - meaning you can't change it (and you may get a BAD_ACCESS error if you do). Look at the next question if you want to see how you can modify the pixels. How Do I Modify The Pixels of the UIImage? The UIImage is immutable, meaning you can't change it. Apple posted a great article on how to get a copy of the pixels and modify them, and rather than copy and paste it here, you should just go read the article. Once you have the bitmap context as they mention in the article, you can do something similar to this to get a new UIImage with the modified pixels: CGImageRef ref = CGBitmapContextCreateImage(bitmap); UIImage* newImage = [UIImage imageWithCGImage:ref]; Do remember to release your references though, otherwise you're going to be leaking quite a bit of memory. After I Select 3 Images From The Camera, I Run Out Of Memory. Help! You have to remember that even though on disk these images take up only a few hundred kilobytes at most, that's because they're compressed as a PNG or JPG. When they are loaded into the UIImage, they become uncompressed. A quick over-the-envelope calculation would be: width x height x 4 = bytes in memory That's assuming 32-bit pixels. If you have 16-bit pixels (some JPGs are stored as RGBA-5551), then you'd replace the 4 with a 2. Now, images taken with the camera are 1600 x 1200 pixels, so let's do the math: 1600 x 1200 x 4 = 7,680,000 bytes = ~8 MB 8 MB is a lot, especially when you have a limit of around 24 MB for your application. That's why you run out of memory. OK, I Understand Why I Have No Memory. What Do I Do? There is never any reason to display images at their full resolution. The iPhone has a screen of 480 x 320 pixels, so you're just wasting space. If you find yourself in this situation, ask yourself the following question: Do I need the full resolution image? If the answer is yes, then you should save it to disk for later use. If the answer is no, then read the next part. Once you've decided what to do with the full-resolution image, then you need to create a smaller image to use for displaying. Many times you might even want several sizes for your image: a thumbnail, a full-size one for displaying, and the original full-resolution image. OK, I'm Hooked. How Do I Resize the Image? Unfortunately, there is no defined way how to resize an image. Also, it's important to note that when you resize it, you'll get a new image - you're not modifying the old one. There are a couple of methods to do the resizing. I'll present them both here, and explain the pros and cons of each. Method 1: Using UIKit + (UIImage*)imageWithImage:(UIImage*)image scaledToSize:(CGSize)newSize; { // Create a graphics image context UIGraphicsBeginImageContext(newSize); // Tell the old image to draw in this new context, with the desired // new size [image drawInRect:CGRectMake(0,0,newSize.width,newSize.height)]; // Get the new image from the context UIImage* newImage = UIGraphicsGetImageFromCurrentImageContext(); // End the context UIGraphicsEndImageContext(); // Return the new image. return newImage; } This method is very simple, and works great. It will also deal with the UIImageOrientation for you, meaning that you don't have to care whether the camera was sideways when the picture was taken. However, this method is not thread safe, and since thumbnailing is a relatively expensive operation (approximately ~2.5s on a 3G for a 1600 x 1200 pixel image), this is very much an operation you may want to do in the background, on a separate thread. Method 2: Using CoreGraphics + (UIImage*)imageWithImage:(UIImage*)sourceImage scaledToSize:(CGSize)newSize; { CGFloat targetWidth = targetSize.width; CGFloat targetHeight = targetSize.height; CGImageRef imageRef = [sourceImage CGImage]; CGBitmapInfo bitmapInfo = CGImageGetBitmapInfo(imageRef); CGColorSpaceRef colorSpaceInfo = CGImageGetColorSpace(imageRef); if (bitmapInfo == kCGImageAlphaNone) { bitmapInfo = kCGImageAlphaNoneSkipLast; } CGContextRef bitmap; if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationUp || sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationDown) { bitmap = CGBitmapContextCreate(NULL, targetWidth, targetHeight, CGImageGetBitsPerComponent(imageRef), CGImageGetBytesPerRow(imageRef), colorSpaceInfo, bitmapInfo); } else { bitmap = CGBitmapContextCreate(NULL, targetHeight, targetWidth, CGImageGetBitsPerComponent(imageRef), CGImageGetBytesPerRow(imageRef), colorSpaceInfo, bitmapInfo); } if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationLeft) { CGContextRotateCTM (bitmap, radians(90)); CGContextTranslateCTM (bitmap, 0, -targetHeight); } else if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationRight) { CGContextRotateCTM (bitmap, radians(-90)); CGContextTranslateCTM (bitmap, -targetWidth, 0); } else if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationUp) { // NOTHING } else if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationDown) { CGContextTranslateCTM (bitmap, targetWidth, targetHeight); CGContextRotateCTM (bitmap, radians(-180.)); } CGContextDrawImage(bitmap, CGRectMake(0, 0, targetWidth, targetHeight), imageRef); CGImageRef ref = CGBitmapContextCreateImage(bitmap); UIImage* newImage = [UIImage imageWithCGImage:ref]; CGContextRelease(bitmap); CGImageRelease(ref); return newImage; } The benefit of this method is that it is thread-safe, plus it takes care of all the small things (using correct color space and bitmap info, dealing with image orientation) that the UIKit version does. How Do I Resize and Maintain Aspect Ratio (like the AspectFill option)? It is very similar to the method above, and it looks like this: + (UIImage*)imageWithImage:(UIImage*)sourceImage scaledToSizeWithSameAspectRatio:(CGSize)targetSize; { CGSize imageSize = sourceImage.size; CGFloat width = imageSize.width; CGFloat height = imageSize.height; CGFloat targetWidth = targetSize.width; CGFloat targetHeight = targetSize.height; CGFloat scaleFactor = 0.0; CGFloat scaledWidth = targetWidth; CGFloat scaledHeight = targetHeight; CGPoint thumbnailPoint = CGPointMake(0.0,0.0); if (CGSizeEqualToSize(imageSize, targetSize) == NO) { CGFloat widthFactor = targetWidth / width; CGFloat heightFactor = targetHeight / height; if (widthFactor > heightFactor) { scaleFactor = widthFactor; // scale to fit height } else { scaleFactor = heightFactor; // scale to fit width } scaledWidth = width * scaleFactor; scaledHeight = height * scaleFactor; // center the image if (widthFactor > heightFactor) { thumbnailPoint.y = (targetHeight - scaledHeight) * 0.5; } else if (widthFactor < heightFactor) { thumbnailPoint.x = (targetWidth - scaledWidth) * 0.5; } } CGImageRef imageRef = [sourceImage CGImage]; CGBitmapInfo bitmapInfo = CGImageGetBitmapInfo(imageRef); CGColorSpaceRef colorSpaceInfo = CGImageGetColorSpace(imageRef); if (bitmapInfo == kCGImageAlphaNone) { bitmapInfo = kCGImageAlphaNoneSkipLast; } CGContextRef bitmap; if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationUp || sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationDown) { bitmap = CGBitmapContextCreate(NULL, targetWidth, targetHeight, CGImageGetBitsPerComponent(imageRef), CGImageGetBytesPerRow(imageRef), colorSpaceInfo, bitmapInfo); } else { bitmap = CGBitmapContextCreate(NULL, targetHeight, targetWidth, CGImageGetBitsPerComponent(imageRef), CGImageGetBytesPerRow(imageRef), colorSpaceInfo, bitmapInfo); } // In the right or left cases, we need to switch scaledWidth and scaledHeight, // and also the thumbnail point if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationLeft) { thumbnailPoint = CGPointMake(thumbnailPoint.y, thumbnailPoint.x); CGFloat oldScaledWidth = scaledWidth; scaledWidth = scaledHeight; scaledHeight = oldScaledWidth; CGContextRotateCTM (bitmap, radians(90)); CGContextTranslateCTM (bitmap, 0, -targetHeight); } else if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationRight) { thumbnailPoint = CGPointMake(thumbnailPoint.y, thumbnailPoint.x); CGFloat oldScaledWidth = scaledWidth; scaledWidth = scaledHeight; scaledHeight = oldScaledWidth; CGContextRotateCTM (bitmap, radians(-90)); CGContextTranslateCTM (bitmap, -targetWidth, 0); } else if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationUp) { // NOTHING } else if (sourceImage.imageOrientation == UIImageOrientationDown) { CGContextTranslateCTM (bitmap, targetWidth, targetHeight); CGContextRotateCTM (bitmap, radians(-180.)); } CGContextDrawImage(bitmap, CGRectMake(thumbnailPoint.x, thumbnailPoint.y, scaledWidth, scaledHeight), imageRef); CGImageRef ref = CGBitmapContextCreateImage(bitmap); UIImage* newImage = [UIImage imageWithCGImage:ref]; CGContextRelease(bitmap); CGImageRelease(ref); return newImage; } The method we employ here is to create a bitmap with the desired size, but draw an image that is actually larger, thus maintaining the aspect ratio. So We've Got Our Scaled Images - How Do I Save Them To Disk? This is pretty simple. Remember that we want to save a compressed version to disk, and not the uncompressed pixels. Apple provides two functions that help us with this (documentation is here): NSData* UIImagePNGRepresentation(UIImage *image); NSData* UIImageJPEGRepresentation (UIImage *image, CGFloat compressionQuality); And if you want to use them, you'd do something like: UIImage* myThumbnail = ...; // Get some image NSData* imageData = UIImagePNGRepresentation(myThumbnail); Now we're ready to save it to disk, which is the final step (say into the documents directory): // Give a name to the file NSString* imageName = @"MyImage.png"; // Now, we have to find the documents directory so we can save it // Note that you might want to save it elsewhere, like the cache directory, // or something similar. NSArray* paths = NSSearchPathForDirectoriesInDomains(NSDocumentDirectory, NSUserDomainMask, YES); NSString* documentsDirectory = [paths objectAtIndex:0]; // Now we get the full path to the file NSString* fullPathToFile = [documentsDirectory stringByAppendingPathComponent:imageName]; // and then we write it out [imageData writeToFile:fullPathToFile atomically:NO]; You would repeat this for every version of the image you have. How Do I Load These Images Back Into Memory? Just look at the various UIImage initialization methods, such as +imageWithContentsOfFile: in the Apple documentation.

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  • Zen and the Art of File and Folder Organization

    - by Mark Virtue
    Is your desk a paragon of neatness, or does it look like a paper-bomb has gone off? If you’ve been putting off getting organized because the task is too huge or daunting, or you don’t know where to start, we’ve got 40 tips to get you on the path to zen mastery of your filing system. For all those readers who would like to get their files and folders organized, or, if they’re already organized, better organized—we have compiled a complete guide to getting organized and staying organized, a comprehensive article that will hopefully cover every possible tip you could want. Signs that Your Computer is Poorly Organized If your computer is a mess, you’re probably already aware of it.  But just in case you’re not, here are some tell-tale signs: Your Desktop has over 40 icons on it “My Documents” contains over 300 files and 60 folders, including MP3s and digital photos You use the Windows’ built-in search facility whenever you need to find a file You can’t find programs in the out-of-control list of programs in your Start Menu You save all your Word documents in one folder, all your spreadsheets in a second folder, etc Any given file that you’re looking for may be in any one of four different sets of folders But before we start, here are some quick notes: We’re going to assume you know what files and folders are, and how to create, save, rename, copy and delete them The organization principles described in this article apply equally to all computer systems.  However, the screenshots here will reflect how things look on Windows (usually Windows 7).  We will also mention some useful features of Windows that can help you get organized. Everyone has their own favorite methodology of organizing and filing, and it’s all too easy to get into “My Way is Better than Your Way” arguments.  The reality is that there is no perfect way of getting things organized.  When I wrote this article, I tried to keep a generalist and objective viewpoint.  I consider myself to be unusually well organized (to the point of obsession, truth be told), and I’ve had 25 years experience in collecting and organizing files on computers.  So I’ve got a lot to say on the subject.  But the tips I have described here are only one way of doing it.  Hopefully some of these tips will work for you too, but please don’t read this as any sort of “right” way to do it. At the end of the article we’ll be asking you, the reader, for your own organization tips. Why Bother Organizing At All? For some, the answer to this question is self-evident. And yet, in this era of powerful desktop search software (the search capabilities built into the Windows Vista and Windows 7 Start Menus, and third-party programs like Google Desktop Search), the question does need to be asked, and answered. I have a friend who puts every file he ever creates, receives or downloads into his My Documents folder and doesn’t bother filing them into subfolders at all.  He relies on the search functionality built into his Windows operating system to help him find whatever he’s looking for.  And he always finds it.  He’s a Search Samurai.  For him, filing is a waste of valuable time that could be spent enjoying life! It’s tempting to follow suit.  On the face of it, why would anyone bother to take the time to organize their hard disk when such excellent search software is available?  Well, if all you ever want to do with the files you own is to locate and open them individually (for listening, editing, etc), then there’s no reason to ever bother doing one scrap of organization.  But consider these common tasks that are not achievable with desktop search software: Find files manually.  Often it’s not convenient, speedy or even possible to utilize your desktop search software to find what you want.  It doesn’t work 100% of the time, or you may not even have it installed.  Sometimes its just plain faster to go straight to the file you want, if you know it’s in a particular sub-folder, rather than trawling through hundreds of search results. Find groups of similar files (e.g. all your “work” files, all the photos of your Europe holiday in 2008, all your music videos, all the MP3s from Dark Side of the Moon, all your letters you wrote to your wife, all your tax returns).  Clever naming of the files will only get you so far.  Sometimes it’s the date the file was created that’s important, other times it’s the file format, and other times it’s the purpose of the file.  How do you name a collection of files so that they’re easy to isolate based on any of the above criteria?  Short answer, you can’t. Move files to a new computer.  It’s time to upgrade your computer.  How do you quickly grab all the files that are important to you?  Or you decide to have two computers now – one for home and one for work.  How do you quickly isolate only the work-related files to move them to the work computer? Synchronize files to other computers.  If you have more than one computer, and you need to mirror some of your files onto the other computer (e.g. your music collection), then you need a way to quickly determine which files are to be synced and which are not.  Surely you don’t want to synchronize everything? Choose which files to back up.  If your backup regime calls for multiple backups, or requires speedy backups, then you’ll need to be able to specify which files are to be backed up, and which are not.  This is not possible if they’re all in the same folder. Finally, if you’re simply someone who takes pleasure in being organized, tidy and ordered (me! me!), then you don’t even need a reason.  Being disorganized is simply unthinkable. Tips on Getting Organized Here we present our 40 best tips on how to get organized.  Or, if you’re already organized, to get better organized. Tip #1.  Choose Your Organization System Carefully The reason that most people are not organized is that it takes time.  And the first thing that takes time is deciding upon a system of organization.  This is always a matter of personal preference, and is not something that a geek on a website can tell you.  You should always choose your own system, based on how your own brain is organized (which makes the assumption that your brain is, in fact, organized). We can’t instruct you, but we can make suggestions: You may want to start off with a system based on the users of the computer.  i.e. “My Files”, “My Wife’s Files”, My Son’s Files”, etc.  Inside “My Files”, you might then break it down into “Personal” and “Business”.  You may then realize that there are overlaps.  For example, everyone may want to share access to the music library, or the photos from the school play.  So you may create another folder called “Family”, for the “common” files. You may decide that the highest-level breakdown of your files is based on the “source” of each file.  In other words, who created the files.  You could have “Files created by ME (business or personal)”, “Files created by people I know (family, friends, etc)”, and finally “Files created by the rest of the world (MP3 music files, downloaded or ripped movies or TV shows, software installation files, gorgeous desktop wallpaper images you’ve collected, etc).”  This system happens to be the one I use myself.  See below:  Mark is for files created by meVC is for files created by my company (Virtual Creations)Others is for files created by my friends and familyData is the rest of the worldAlso, Settings is where I store the configuration files and other program data files for my installed software (more on this in tip #34, below). Each folder will present its own particular set of requirements for further sub-organization.  For example, you may decide to organize your music collection into sub-folders based on the artist’s name, while your digital photos might get organized based on the date they were taken.  It can be different for every sub-folder! Another strategy would be based on “currentness”.  Files you have yet to open and look at live in one folder.  Ones that have been looked at but not yet filed live in another place.  Current, active projects live in yet another place.  All other files (your “archive”, if you like) would live in a fourth folder. (And of course, within that last folder you’d need to create a further sub-system based on one of the previous bullet points). Put some thought into this – changing it when it proves incomplete can be a big hassle!  Before you go to the trouble of implementing any system you come up with, examine a wide cross-section of the files you own and see if they will all be able to find a nice logical place to sit within your system. Tip #2.  When You Decide on Your System, Stick to It! There’s nothing more pointless than going to all the trouble of creating a system and filing all your files, and then whenever you create, receive or download a new file, you simply dump it onto your Desktop.  You need to be disciplined – forever!  Every new file you get, spend those extra few seconds to file it where it belongs!  Otherwise, in just a month or two, you’ll be worse off than before – half your files will be organized and half will be disorganized – and you won’t know which is which! Tip #3.  Choose the Root Folder of Your Structure Carefully Every data file (document, photo, music file, etc) that you create, own or is important to you, no matter where it came from, should be found within one single folder, and that one single folder should be located at the root of your C: drive (as a sub-folder of C:\).  In other words, do not base your folder structure in standard folders like “My Documents”.  If you do, then you’re leaving it up to the operating system engineers to decide what folder structure is best for you.  And every operating system has a different system!  In Windows 7 your files are found in C:\Users\YourName, whilst on Windows XP it was C:\Documents and Settings\YourName\My Documents.  In UNIX systems it’s often /home/YourName. These standard default folders tend to fill up with junk files and folders that are not at all important to you.  “My Documents” is the worst offender.  Every second piece of software you install, it seems, likes to create its own folder in the “My Documents” folder.  These folders usually don’t fit within your organizational structure, so don’t use them!  In fact, don’t even use the “My Documents” folder at all.  Allow it to fill up with junk, and then simply ignore it.  It sounds heretical, but: Don’t ever visit your “My Documents” folder!  Remove your icons/links to “My Documents” and replace them with links to the folders you created and you care about! Create your own file system from scratch!  Probably the best place to put it would be on your D: drive – if you have one.  This way, all your files live on one drive, while all the operating system and software component files live on the C: drive – simply and elegantly separated.  The benefits of that are profound.  Not only are there obvious organizational benefits (see tip #10, below), but when it comes to migrate your data to a new computer, you can (sometimes) simply unplug your D: drive and plug it in as the D: drive of your new computer (this implies that the D: drive is actually a separate physical disk, and not a partition on the same disk as C:).  You also get a slight speed improvement (again, only if your C: and D: drives are on separate physical disks). Warning:  From tip #12, below, you will see that it’s actually a good idea to have exactly the same file system structure – including the drive it’s filed on – on all of the computers you own.  So if you decide to use the D: drive as the storage system for your own files, make sure you are able to use the D: drive on all the computers you own.  If you can’t ensure that, then you can still use a clever geeky trick to store your files on the D: drive, but still access them all via the C: drive (see tip #17, below). If you only have one hard disk (C:), then create a dedicated folder that will contain all your files – something like C:\Files.  The name of the folder is not important, but make it a single, brief word. There are several reasons for this: When creating a backup regime, it’s easy to decide what files should be backed up – they’re all in the one folder! If you ever decide to trade in your computer for a new one, you know exactly which files to migrate You will always know where to begin a search for any file If you synchronize files with other computers, it makes your synchronization routines very simple.   It also causes all your shortcuts to continue to work on the other machines (more about this in tip #24, below). Once you’ve decided where your files should go, then put all your files in there – Everything!  Completely disregard the standard, default folders that are created for you by the operating system (“My Music”, “My Pictures”, etc).  In fact, you can actually relocate many of those folders into your own structure (more about that below, in tip #6). The more completely you get all your data files (documents, photos, music, etc) and all your configuration settings into that one folder, then the easier it will be to perform all of the above tasks. Once this has been done, and all your files live in one folder, all the other folders in C:\ can be thought of as “operating system” folders, and therefore of little day-to-day interest for us. Here’s a screenshot of a nicely organized C: drive, where all user files are located within the \Files folder:   Tip #4.  Use Sub-Folders This would be our simplest and most obvious tip.  It almost goes without saying.  Any organizational system you decide upon (see tip #1) will require that you create sub-folders for your files.  Get used to creating folders on a regular basis. Tip #5.  Don’t be Shy About Depth Create as many levels of sub-folders as you need.  Don’t be scared to do so.  Every time you notice an opportunity to group a set of related files into a sub-folder, do so.  Examples might include:  All the MP3s from one music CD, all the photos from one holiday, or all the documents from one client. It’s perfectly okay to put files into a folder called C:\Files\Me\From Others\Services\WestCo Bank\Statements\2009.  That’s only seven levels deep.  Ten levels is not uncommon.  Of course, it’s possible to take this too far.  If you notice yourself creating a sub-folder to hold only one file, then you’ve probably become a little over-zealous.  On the other hand, if you simply create a structure with only two levels (for example C:\Files\Work) then you really haven’t achieved any level of organization at all (unless you own only six files!).  Your “Work” folder will have become a dumping ground, just like your Desktop was, with most likely hundreds of files in it. Tip #6.  Move the Standard User Folders into Your Own Folder Structure Most operating systems, including Windows, create a set of standard folders for each of its users.  These folders then become the default location for files such as documents, music files, digital photos and downloaded Internet files.  In Windows 7, the full list is shown below: Some of these folders you may never use nor care about (for example, the Favorites folder, if you’re not using Internet Explorer as your browser).  Those ones you can leave where they are.  But you may be using some of the other folders to store files that are important to you.  Even if you’re not using them, Windows will still often treat them as the default storage location for many types of files.  When you go to save a standard file type, it can become annoying to be automatically prompted to save it in a folder that’s not part of your own file structure. But there’s a simple solution:  Move the folders you care about into your own folder structure!  If you do, then the next time you go to save a file of the corresponding type, Windows will prompt you to save it in the new, moved location. Moving the folders is easy.  Simply drag-and-drop them to the new location.  Here’s a screenshot of the default My Music folder being moved to my custom personal folder (Mark): Tip #7.  Name Files and Folders Intelligently This is another one that almost goes without saying, but we’ll say it anyway:  Do not allow files to be created that have meaningless names like Document1.doc, or folders called New Folder (2).  Take that extra 20 seconds and come up with a meaningful name for the file/folder – one that accurately divulges its contents without repeating the entire contents in the name. Tip #8.  Watch Out for Long Filenames Another way to tell if you have not yet created enough depth to your folder hierarchy is that your files often require really long names.  If you need to call a file Johnson Sales Figures March 2009.xls (which might happen to live in the same folder as Abercrombie Budget Report 2008.xls), then you might want to create some sub-folders so that the first file could be simply called March.xls, and living in the Clients\Johnson\Sales Figures\2009 folder. A well-placed file needs only a brief filename! Tip #9.  Use Shortcuts!  Everywhere! This is probably the single most useful and important tip we can offer.  A shortcut allows a file to be in two places at once. Why would you want that?  Well, the file and folder structure of every popular operating system on the market today is hierarchical.  This means that all objects (files and folders) always live within exactly one parent folder.  It’s a bit like a tree.  A tree has branches (folders) and leaves (files).  Each leaf, and each branch, is supported by exactly one parent branch, all the way back to the root of the tree (which, incidentally, is exactly why C:\ is called the “root folder” of the C: drive). That hard disks are structured this way may seem obvious and even necessary, but it’s only one way of organizing data.  There are others:  Relational databases, for example, organize structured data entirely differently.  The main limitation of hierarchical filing structures is that a file can only ever be in one branch of the tree – in only one folder – at a time.  Why is this a problem?  Well, there are two main reasons why this limitation is a problem for computer users: The “correct” place for a file, according to our organizational rationale, is very often a very inconvenient place for that file to be located.  Just because it’s correctly filed doesn’t mean it’s easy to get to.  Your file may be “correctly” buried six levels deep in your sub-folder structure, but you may need regular and speedy access to this file every day.  You could always move it to a more convenient location, but that would mean that you would need to re-file back to its “correct” location it every time you’d finished working on it.  Most unsatisfactory. A file may simply “belong” in two or more different locations within your file structure.  For example, say you’re an accountant and you have just completed the 2009 tax return for John Smith.  It might make sense to you to call this file 2009 Tax Return.doc and file it under Clients\John Smith.  But it may also be important to you to have the 2009 tax returns from all your clients together in the one place.  So you might also want to call the file John Smith.doc and file it under Tax Returns\2009.  The problem is, in a purely hierarchical filing system, you can’t put it in both places.  Grrrrr! Fortunately, Windows (and most other operating systems) offers a way for you to do exactly that:  It’s called a “shortcut” (also known as an “alias” on Macs and a “symbolic link” on UNIX systems).  Shortcuts allow a file to exist in one place, and an icon that represents the file to be created and put anywhere else you please.  In fact, you can create a dozen such icons and scatter them all over your hard disk.  Double-clicking on one of these icons/shortcuts opens up the original file, just as if you had double-clicked on the original file itself. Consider the following two icons: The one on the left is the actual Word document, while the one on the right is a shortcut that represents the Word document.  Double-clicking on either icon will open the same file.  There are two main visual differences between the icons: The shortcut will have a small arrow in the lower-left-hand corner (on Windows, anyway) The shortcut is allowed to have a name that does not include the file extension (the “.docx” part, in this case) You can delete the shortcut at any time without losing any actual data.  The original is still intact.  All you lose is the ability to get to that data from wherever the shortcut was. So why are shortcuts so great?  Because they allow us to easily overcome the main limitation of hierarchical file systems, and put a file in two (or more) places at the same time.  You will always have files that don’t play nice with your organizational rationale, and can’t be filed in only one place.  They demand to exist in two places.  Shortcuts allow this!  Furthermore, they allow you to collect your most often-opened files and folders together in one spot for convenient access.  The cool part is that the original files stay where they are, safe forever in their perfectly organized location. So your collection of most often-opened files can – and should – become a collection of shortcuts! If you’re still not convinced of the utility of shortcuts, consider the following well-known areas of a typical Windows computer: The Start Menu (and all the programs that live within it) The Quick Launch bar (or the Superbar in Windows 7) The “Favorite folders” area in the top-left corner of the Windows Explorer window (in Windows Vista or Windows 7) Your Internet Explorer Favorites or Firefox Bookmarks Each item in each of these areas is a shortcut!  Each of those areas exist for one purpose only:  For convenience – to provide you with a collection of the files and folders you access most often. It should be easy to see by now that shortcuts are designed for one single purpose:  To make accessing your files more convenient.  Each time you double-click on a shortcut, you are saved the hassle of locating the file (or folder, or program, or drive, or control panel icon) that it represents. Shortcuts allow us to invent a golden rule of file and folder organization: “Only ever have one copy of a file – never have two copies of the same file.  Use a shortcut instead” (this rule doesn’t apply to copies created for backup purposes, of course!) There are also lesser rules, like “don’t move a file into your work area – create a shortcut there instead”, and “any time you find yourself frustrated with how long it takes to locate a file, create a shortcut to it and place that shortcut in a convenient location.” So how to we create these massively useful shortcuts?  There are two main ways: “Copy” the original file or folder (click on it and type Ctrl-C, or right-click on it and select Copy):  Then right-click in an empty area of the destination folder (the place where you want the shortcut to go) and select Paste shortcut: Right-drag (drag with the right mouse button) the file from the source folder to the destination folder.  When you let go of the mouse button at the destination folder, a menu pops up: Select Create shortcuts here. Note that when shortcuts are created, they are often named something like Shortcut to Budget Detail.doc (windows XP) or Budget Detail – Shortcut.doc (Windows 7).   If you don’t like those extra words, you can easily rename the shortcuts after they’re created, or you can configure Windows to never insert the extra words in the first place (see our article on how to do this). And of course, you can create shortcuts to folders too, not just to files! Bottom line: Whenever you have a file that you’d like to access from somewhere else (whether it’s convenience you’re after, or because the file simply belongs in two places), create a shortcut to the original file in the new location. Tip #10.  Separate Application Files from Data Files Any digital organization guru will drum this rule into you.  Application files are the components of the software you’ve installed (e.g. Microsoft Word, Adobe Photoshop or Internet Explorer).  Data files are the files that you’ve created for yourself using that software (e.g. Word Documents, digital photos, emails or playlists). Software gets installed, uninstalled and upgraded all the time.  Hopefully you always have the original installation media (or downloaded set-up file) kept somewhere safe, and can thus reinstall your software at any time.  This means that the software component files are of little importance.  Whereas the files you have created with that software is, by definition, important.  It’s a good rule to always separate unimportant files from important files. So when your software prompts you to save a file you’ve just created, take a moment and check out where it’s suggesting that you save the file.  If it’s suggesting that you save the file into the same folder as the software itself, then definitely don’t follow that suggestion.  File it in your own folder!  In fact, see if you can find the program’s configuration option that determines where files are saved by default (if it has one), and change it. Tip #11.  Organize Files Based on Purpose, Not on File Type If you have, for example a folder called Work\Clients\Johnson, and within that folder you have two sub-folders, Word Documents and Spreadsheets (in other words, you’re separating “.doc” files from “.xls” files), then chances are that you’re not optimally organized.  It makes little sense to organize your files based on the program that created them.  Instead, create your sub-folders based on the purpose of the file.  For example, it would make more sense to create sub-folders called Correspondence and Financials.  It may well be that all the files in a given sub-folder are of the same file-type, but this should be more of a coincidence and less of a design feature of your organization system. Tip #12.  Maintain the Same Folder Structure on All Your Computers In other words, whatever organizational system you create, apply it to every computer that you can.  There are several benefits to this: There’s less to remember.  No matter where you are, you always know where to look for your files If you copy or synchronize files from one computer to another, then setting up the synchronization job becomes very simple Shortcuts can be copied or moved from one computer to another with ease (assuming the original files are also copied/moved).  There’s no need to find the target of the shortcut all over again on the second computer Ditto for linked files (e.g Word documents that link to data in a separate Excel file), playlists, and any files that reference the exact file locations of other files. This applies even to the drive that your files are stored on.  If your files are stored on C: on one computer, make sure they’re stored on C: on all your computers.  Otherwise all your shortcuts, playlists and linked files will stop working! Tip #13.  Create an “Inbox” Folder Create yourself a folder where you store all files that you’re currently working on, or that you haven’t gotten around to filing yet.  You can think of this folder as your “to-do” list.  You can call it “Inbox” (making it the same metaphor as your email system), or “Work”, or “To-Do”, or “Scratch”, or whatever name makes sense to you.  It doesn’t matter what you call it – just make sure you have one! Once you have finished working on a file, you then move it from the “Inbox” to its correct location within your organizational structure. You may want to use your Desktop as this “Inbox” folder.  Rightly or wrongly, most people do.  It’s not a bad place to put such files, but be careful:  If you do decide that your Desktop represents your “to-do” list, then make sure that no other files find their way there.  In other words, make sure that your “Inbox”, wherever it is, Desktop or otherwise, is kept free of junk – stray files that don’t belong there. So where should you put this folder, which, almost by definition, lives outside the structure of the rest of your filing system?  Well, first and foremost, it has to be somewhere handy.  This will be one of your most-visited folders, so convenience is key.  Putting it on the Desktop is a great option – especially if you don’t have any other folders on your Desktop:  the folder then becomes supremely easy to find in Windows Explorer: You would then create shortcuts to this folder in convenient spots all over your computer (“Favorite Links”, “Quick Launch”, etc). Tip #14.  Ensure You have Only One “Inbox” Folder Once you’ve created your “Inbox” folder, don’t use any other folder location as your “to-do list”.  Throw every incoming or created file into the Inbox folder as you create/receive it.  This keeps the rest of your computer pristine and free of randomly created or downloaded junk.  The last thing you want to be doing is checking multiple folders to see all your current tasks and projects.  Gather them all together into one folder. Here are some tips to help ensure you only have one Inbox: Set the default “save” location of all your programs to this folder. Set the default “download” location for your browser to this folder. If this folder is not your desktop (recommended) then also see if you can make a point of not putting “to-do” files on your desktop.  This keeps your desktop uncluttered and Zen-like: (the Inbox folder is in the bottom-right corner) Tip #15.  Be Vigilant about Clearing Your “Inbox” Folder This is one of the keys to staying organized.  If you let your “Inbox” overflow (i.e. allow there to be more than, say, 30 files or folders in there), then you’re probably going to start feeling like you’re overwhelmed:  You’re not keeping up with your to-do list.  Once your Inbox gets beyond a certain point (around 30 files, studies have shown), then you’ll simply start to avoid it.  You may continue to put files in there, but you’ll be scared to look at it, fearing the “out of control” feeling that all overworked, chaotic or just plain disorganized people regularly feel. So, here’s what you can do: Visit your Inbox/to-do folder regularly (at least five times per day). Scan the folder regularly for files that you have completed working on and are ready for filing.  File them immediately. Make it a source of pride to keep the number of files in this folder as small as possible.  If you value peace of mind, then make the emptiness of this folder one of your highest (computer) priorities If you know that a particular file has been in the folder for more than, say, six weeks, then admit that you’re not actually going to get around to processing it, and move it to its final resting place. Tip #16.  File Everything Immediately, and Use Shortcuts for Your Active Projects As soon as you create, receive or download a new file, store it away in its “correct” folder immediately.  Then, whenever you need to work on it (possibly straight away), create a shortcut to it in your “Inbox” (“to-do”) folder or your desktop.  That way, all your files are always in their “correct” locations, yet you still have immediate, convenient access to your current, active files.  When you finish working on a file, simply delete the shortcut. Ideally, your “Inbox” folder – and your Desktop – should contain no actual files or folders.  They should simply contain shortcuts. Tip #17.  Use Directory Symbolic Links (or Junctions) to Maintain One Unified Folder Structure Using this tip, we can get around a potential hiccup that we can run into when creating our organizational structure – the issue of having more than one drive on our computer (C:, D:, etc).  We might have files we need to store on the D: drive for space reasons, and yet want to base our organized folder structure on the C: drive (or vice-versa). Your chosen organizational structure may dictate that all your files must be accessed from the C: drive (for example, the root folder of all your files may be something like C:\Files).  And yet you may still have a D: drive and wish to take advantage of the hundreds of spare Gigabytes that it offers.  Did you know that it’s actually possible to store your files on the D: drive and yet access them as if they were on the C: drive?  And no, we’re not talking about shortcuts here (although the concept is very similar). By using the shell command mklink, you can essentially take a folder that lives on one drive and create an alias for it on a different drive (you can do lots more than that with mklink – for a full rundown on this programs capabilities, see our dedicated article).  These aliases are called directory symbolic links (and used to be known as junctions).  You can think of them as “virtual” folders.  They function exactly like regular folders, except they’re physically located somewhere else. For example, you may decide that your entire D: drive contains your complete organizational file structure, but that you need to reference all those files as if they were on the C: drive, under C:\Files.  If that was the case you could create C:\Files as a directory symbolic link – a link to D:, as follows: mklink /d c:\files d:\ Or it may be that the only files you wish to store on the D: drive are your movie collection.  You could locate all your movie files in the root of your D: drive, and then link it to C:\Files\Media\Movies, as follows: mklink /d c:\files\media\movies d:\ (Needless to say, you must run these commands from a command prompt – click the Start button, type cmd and press Enter) Tip #18. Customize Your Folder Icons This is not strictly speaking an organizational tip, but having unique icons for each folder does allow you to more quickly visually identify which folder is which, and thus saves you time when you’re finding files.  An example is below (from my folder that contains all files downloaded from the Internet): To learn how to change your folder icons, please refer to our dedicated article on the subject. Tip #19.  Tidy Your Start Menu The Windows Start Menu is usually one of the messiest parts of any Windows computer.  Every program you install seems to adopt a completely different approach to placing icons in this menu.  Some simply put a single program icon.  Others create a folder based on the name of the software.  And others create a folder based on the name of the software manufacturer.  It’s chaos, and can make it hard to find the software you want to run. Thankfully we can avoid this chaos with useful operating system features like Quick Launch, the Superbar or pinned start menu items. Even so, it would make a lot of sense to get into the guts of the Start Menu itself and give it a good once-over.  All you really need to decide is how you’re going to organize your applications.  A structure based on the purpose of the application is an obvious candidate.  Below is an example of one such structure: In this structure, Utilities means software whose job it is to keep the computer itself running smoothly (configuration tools, backup software, Zip programs, etc).  Applications refers to any productivity software that doesn’t fit under the headings Multimedia, Graphics, Internet, etc. In case you’re not aware, every icon in your Start Menu is a shortcut and can be manipulated like any other shortcut (copied, moved, deleted, etc). With the Windows Start Menu (all version of Windows), Microsoft has decided that there be two parallel folder structures to store your Start Menu shortcuts.  One for you (the logged-in user of the computer) and one for all users of the computer.  Having two parallel structures can often be redundant:  If you are the only user of the computer, then having two parallel structures is totally redundant.  Even if you have several users that regularly log into the computer, most of your installed software will need to be made available to all users, and should thus be moved out of the “just you” version of the Start Menu and into the “all users” area. To take control of your Start Menu, so you can start organizing it, you’ll need to know how to access the actual folders and shortcut files that make up the Start Menu (both versions of it).  To find these folders and files, click the Start button and then right-click on the All Programs text (Windows XP users should right-click on the Start button itself): The Open option refers to the “just you” version of the Start Menu, while the Open All Users option refers to the “all users” version.  Click on the one you want to organize. A Windows Explorer window then opens with your chosen version of the Start Menu selected.  From there it’s easy.  Double-click on the Programs folder and you’ll see all your folders and shortcuts.  Now you can delete/rename/move until it’s just the way you want it. Note:  When you’re reorganizing your Start Menu, you may want to have two Explorer windows open at the same time – one showing the “just you” version and one showing the “all users” version.  You can drag-and-drop between the windows. Tip #20.  Keep Your Start Menu Tidy Once you have a perfectly organized Start Menu, try to be a little vigilant about keeping it that way.  Every time you install a new piece of software, the icons that get created will almost certainly violate your organizational structure. So to keep your Start Menu pristine and organized, make sure you do the following whenever you install a new piece of software: Check whether the software was installed into the “just you” area of the Start Menu, or the “all users” area, and then move it to the correct area. Remove all the unnecessary icons (like the “Read me” icon, the “Help” icon (you can always open the help from within the software itself when it’s running), the “Uninstall” icon, the link(s)to the manufacturer’s website, etc) Rename the main icon(s) of the software to something brief that makes sense to you.  For example, you might like to rename Microsoft Office Word 2010 to simply Word Move the icon(s) into the correct folder based on your Start Menu organizational structure And don’t forget:  when you uninstall a piece of software, the software’s uninstall routine is no longer going to be able to remove the software’s icon from the Start Menu (because you moved and/or renamed it), so you’ll need to remove that icon manually. Tip #21.  Tidy C:\ The root of your C: drive (C:\) is a common dumping ground for files and folders – both by the users of your computer and by the software that you install on your computer.  It can become a mess. There’s almost no software these days that requires itself to be installed in C:\.  99% of the time it can and should be installed into C:\Program Files.  And as for your own files, well, it’s clear that they can (and almost always should) be stored somewhere else. In an ideal world, your C:\ folder should look like this (on Windows 7): Note that there are some system files and folders in C:\ that are usually and deliberately “hidden” (such as the Windows virtual memory file pagefile.sys, the boot loader file bootmgr, and the System Volume Information folder).  Hiding these files and folders is a good idea, as they need to stay where they are and are almost never needed to be opened or even seen by you, the user.  Hiding them prevents you from accidentally messing with them, and enhances your sense of order and well-being when you look at your C: drive folder. Tip #22.  Tidy Your Desktop The Desktop is probably the most abused part of a Windows computer (from an organization point of view).  It usually serves as a dumping ground for all incoming files, as well as holding icons to oft-used applications, plus some regularly opened files and folders.  It often ends up becoming an uncontrolled mess.  See if you can avoid this.  Here’s why… Application icons (Word, Internet Explorer, etc) are often found on the Desktop, but it’s unlikely that this is the optimum place for them.  The “Quick Launch” bar (or the Superbar in Windows 7) is always visible and so represents a perfect location to put your icons.  You’ll only be able to see the icons on your Desktop when all your programs are minimized.  It might be time to get your application icons off your desktop… You may have decided that the Inbox/To-do folder on your computer (see tip #13, above) should be your Desktop.  If so, then enough said.  Simply be vigilant about clearing it and preventing it from being polluted by junk files (see tip #15, above).  On the other hand, if your Desktop is not acting as your “Inbox” folder, then there’s no reason for it to have any data files or folders on it at all, except perhaps a couple of shortcuts to often-opened files and folders (either ongoing or current projects).  Everything else should be moved to your “Inbox” folder. In an ideal world, it might look like this: Tip #23.  Move Permanent Items on Your Desktop Away from the Top-Left Corner When files/folders are dragged onto your desktop in a Windows Explorer window, or when shortcuts are created on your Desktop from Internet Explorer, those icons are always placed in the top-left corner – or as close as they can get.  If you have other files, folders or shortcuts that you keep on the Desktop permanently, then it’s a good idea to separate these permanent icons from the transient ones, so that you can quickly identify which ones the transients are.  An easy way to do this is to move all your permanent icons to the right-hand side of your Desktop.  That should keep them separated from incoming items. Tip #24.  Synchronize If you have more than one computer, you’ll almost certainly want to share files between them.  If the computers are permanently attached to the same local network, then there’s no need to store multiple copies of any one file or folder – shortcuts will suffice.  However, if the computers are not always on the same network, then you will at some point need to copy files between them.  For files that need to permanently live on both computers, the ideal way to do this is to synchronize the files, as opposed to simply copying them. We only have room here to write a brief summary of synchronization, not a full article.  In short, there are several different types of synchronization: Where the contents of one folder are accessible anywhere, such as with Dropbox Where the contents of any number of folders are accessible anywhere, such as with Windows Live Mesh Where any files or folders from anywhere on your computer are synchronized with exactly one other computer, such as with the Windows “Briefcase”, Microsoft SyncToy, or (much more powerful, yet still free) SyncBack from 2BrightSparks.  This only works when both computers are on the same local network, at least temporarily. A great advantage of synchronization solutions is that once you’ve got it configured the way you want it, then the sync process happens automatically, every time.  Click a button (or schedule it to happen automatically) and all your files are automagically put where they’re supposed to be. If you maintain the same file and folder structure on both computers, then you can also sync files depend upon the correct location of other files, like shortcuts, playlists and office documents that link to other office documents, and the synchronized files still work on the other computer! Tip #25.  Hide Files You Never Need to See If you have your files well organized, you will often be able to tell if a file is out of place just by glancing at the contents of a folder (for example, it should be pretty obvious if you look in a folder that contains all the MP3s from one music CD and see a Word document in there).  This is a good thing – it allows you to determine if there are files out of place with a quick glance.  Yet sometimes there are files in a folder that seem out of place but actually need to be there, such as the “folder art” JPEGs in music folders, and various files in the root of the C: drive.  If such files never need to be opened by you, then a good idea is to simply hide them.  Then, the next time you glance at the folder, you won’t have to remember whether that file was supposed to be there or not, because you won’t see it at all! To hide a file, simply right-click on it and choose Properties: Then simply tick the Hidden tick-box:   Tip #26.  Keep Every Setup File These days most software is downloaded from the Internet.  Whenever you download a piece of software, keep it.  You’ll never know when you need to reinstall the software. Further, keep with it an Internet shortcut that links back to the website where you originally downloaded it, in case you ever need to check for updates. See tip #33 below for a full description of the excellence of organizing your setup files. Tip #27.  Try to Minimize the Number of Folders that Contain Both Files and Sub-folders Some of the folders in your organizational structure will contain only files.  Others will contain only sub-folders.  And you will also have some folders that contain both files and sub-folders.  You will notice slight improvements in how long it takes you to locate a file if you try to avoid this third type of folder.  It’s not always possible, of course – you’ll always have some of these folders, but see if you can avoid it. One way of doing this is to take all the leftover files that didn’t end up getting stored in a sub-folder and create a special “Miscellaneous” or “Other” folder for them. Tip #28.  Starting a Filename with an Underscore Brings it to the Top of a List Further to the previous tip, if you name that “Miscellaneous” or “Other” folder in such a way that its name begins with an underscore “_”, then it will appear at the top of the list of files/folders. The screenshot below is an example of this.  Each folder in the list contains a set of digital photos.  The folder at the top of the list, _Misc, contains random photos that didn’t deserve their own dedicated folder: Tip #29.  Clean Up those CD-ROMs and (shudder!) Floppy Disks Have you got a pile of CD-ROMs stacked on a shelf of your office?  Old photos, or files you archived off onto CD-ROM (or even worse, floppy disks!) because you didn’t have enough disk space at the time?  In the meantime have you upgraded your computer and now have 500 Gigabytes of space you don’t know what to do with?  If so, isn’t it time you tidied up that stack of disks and filed them into your gorgeous new folder structure? So what are you waiting for?  Bite the bullet, copy them all back onto your computer, file them in their appropriate folders, and then back the whole lot up onto a shiny new 1000Gig external hard drive! Useful Folders to Create This next section suggests some useful folders that you might want to create within your folder structure.  I’ve personally found them to be indispensable. The first three are all about convenience – handy folders to create and then put somewhere that you can always access instantly.  For each one, it’s not so important where the actual folder is located, but it’s very important where you put the shortcut(s) to the folder.  You might want to locate the shortcuts: On your Desktop In your “Quick Launch” area (or pinned to your Windows 7 Superbar) In your Windows Explorer “Favorite Links” area Tip #30.  Create an “Inbox” (“To-Do”) Folder This has already been mentioned in depth (see tip #13), but we wanted to reiterate its importance here.  This folder contains all the recently created, received or downloaded files that you have not yet had a chance to file away properly, and it also may contain files that you have yet to process.  In effect, it becomes a sort of “to-do list”.  It doesn’t have to be called “Inbox” – you can call it whatever you want. Tip #31.  Create a Folder where Your Current Projects are Collected Rather than going hunting for them all the time, or dumping them all on your desktop, create a special folder where you put links (or work folders) for each of the projects you’re currently working on. You can locate this folder in your “Inbox” folder, on your desktop, or anywhere at all – just so long as there’s a way of getting to it quickly, such as putting a link to it in Windows Explorer’s “Favorite Links” area: Tip #32.  Create a Folder for Files and Folders that You Regularly Open You will always have a few files that you open regularly, whether it be a spreadsheet of your current accounts, or a favorite playlist.  These are not necessarily “current projects”, rather they’re simply files that you always find yourself opening.  Typically such files would be located on your desktop (or even better, shortcuts to those files).  Why not collect all such shortcuts together and put them in their own special folder? As with the “Current Projects” folder (above), you would want to locate that folder somewhere convenient.  Below is an example of a folder called “Quick links”, with about seven files (shortcuts) in it, that is accessible through the Windows Quick Launch bar: See tip #37 below for a full explanation of the power of the Quick Launch bar. Tip #33.  Create a “Set-ups” Folder A typical computer has dozens of applications installed on it.  For each piece of software, there are often many different pieces of information you need to keep track of, including: The original installation setup file(s).  This can be anything from a simple 100Kb setup.exe file you downloaded from a website, all the way up to a 4Gig ISO file that you copied from a DVD-ROM that you purchased. The home page of the software manufacturer (in case you need to look up something on their support pages, their forum or their online help) The page containing the download link for your actual file (in case you need to re-download it, or download an upgraded version) The serial number Your proof-of-purchase documentation Any other template files, plug-ins, themes, etc that also need to get installed For each piece of software, it’s a great idea to gather all of these files together and put them in a single folder.  The folder can be the name of the software (plus possibly a very brief description of what it’s for – in case you can’t remember what the software does based in its name).  Then you would gather all of these folders together into one place, and call it something like “Software” or “Setups”. If you have enough of these folders (I have several hundred, being a geek, collected over 20 years), then you may want to further categorize them.  My own categorization structure is based on “platform” (operating system): The last seven folders each represents one platform/operating system, while _Operating Systems contains set-up files for installing the operating systems themselves.  _Hardware contains ROMs for hardware I own, such as routers. Within the Windows folder (above), you can see the beginnings of the vast library of software I’ve compiled over the years: An example of a typical application folder looks like this: Tip #34.  Have a “Settings” Folder We all know that our documents are important.  So are our photos and music files.  We save all of these files into folders, and then locate them afterwards and double-click on them to open them.  But there are many files that are important to us that can’t be saved into folders, and then searched for and double-clicked later on.  These files certainly contain important information that we need, but are often created internally by an application, and saved wherever that application feels is appropriate. A good example of this is the “PST” file that Outlook creates for us and uses to store all our emails, contacts, appointments and so forth.  Another example would be the collection of Bookmarks that Firefox stores on your behalf. And yet another example would be the customized settings and configuration files of our all our software.  Granted, most Windows programs store their configuration in the Registry, but there are still many programs that use configuration files to store their settings. Imagine if you lost all of the above files!  And yet, when people are backing up their computers, they typically only back up the files they know about – those that are stored in the “My Documents” folder, etc.  If they had a hard disk failure or their computer was lost or stolen, their backup files would not include some of the most vital files they owned.  Also, when migrating to a new computer, it’s vital to ensure that these files make the journey. It can be a very useful idea to create yourself a folder to store all your “settings” – files that are important to you but which you never actually search for by name and double-click on to open them.  Otherwise, next time you go to set up a new computer just the way you want it, you’ll need to spend hours recreating the configuration of your previous computer! So how to we get our important files into this folder?  Well, we have a few options: Some programs (such as Outlook and its PST files) allow you to place these files wherever you want.  If you delve into the program’s options, you will find a setting somewhere that controls the location of the important settings files (or “personal storage” – PST – when it comes to Outlook) Some programs do not allow you to change such locations in any easy way, but if you get into the Registry, you can sometimes find a registry key that refers to the location of the file(s).  Simply move the file into your Settings folder and adjust the registry key to refer to the new location. Some programs stubbornly refuse to allow their settings files to be placed anywhere other then where they stipulate.  When faced with programs like these, you have three choices:  (1) You can ignore those files, (2) You can copy the files into your Settings folder (let’s face it – settings don’t change very often), or (3) you can use synchronization software, such as the Windows Briefcase, to make synchronized copies of all your files in your Settings folder.  All you then have to do is to remember to run your sync software periodically (perhaps just before you run your backup software!). There are some other things you may decide to locate inside this new “Settings” folder: Exports of registry keys (from the many applications that store their configurations in the Registry).  This is useful for backup purposes or for migrating to a new computer Notes you’ve made about all the specific customizations you have made to a particular piece of software (so that you’ll know how to do it all again on your next computer) Shortcuts to webpages that detail how to tweak certain aspects of your operating system or applications so they are just the way you like them (such as how to remove the words “Shortcut to” from the beginning of newly created shortcuts).  In other words, you’d want to create shortcuts to half the pages on the How-To Geek website! Here’s an example of a “Settings” folder: Windows Features that Help with Organization This section details some of the features of Microsoft Windows that are a boon to anyone hoping to stay optimally organized. Tip #35.  Use the “Favorite Links” Area to Access Oft-Used Folders Once you’ve created your great new filing system, work out which folders you access most regularly, or which serve as great starting points for locating the rest of the files in your folder structure, and then put links to those folders in your “Favorite Links” area of the left-hand side of the Windows Explorer window (simply called “Favorites” in Windows 7):   Some ideas for folders you might want to add there include: Your “Inbox” folder (or whatever you’ve called it) – most important! The base of your filing structure (e.g. C:\Files) A folder containing shortcuts to often-accessed folders on other computers around the network (shown above as Network Folders) A folder containing shortcuts to your current projects (unless that folder is in your “Inbox” folder) Getting folders into this area is very simple – just locate the folder you’re interested in and drag it there! Tip #36.  Customize the Places Bar in the File/Open and File/Save Boxes Consider the screenshot below: The highlighted icons (collectively known as the “Places Bar”) can be customized to refer to any folder location you want, allowing instant access to any part of your organizational structure. Note:  These File/Open and File/Save boxes have been superseded by new versions that use the Windows Vista/Windows 7 “Favorite Links”, but the older versions (shown above) are still used by a surprisingly large number of applications. The easiest way to customize these icons is to use the Group Policy Editor, but not everyone has access to this program.  If you do, open it up and navigate to: User Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Windows Explorer > Common Open File Dialog If you don’t have access to the Group Policy Editor, then you’ll need to get into the Registry.  Navigate to: HKEY_CURRENT_USER \ Software \ Microsoft  \ Windows \ CurrentVersion \ Policies \ comdlg32 \ Placesbar It should then be easy to make the desired changes.  Log off and log on again to allow the changes to take effect. Tip #37.  Use the Quick Launch Bar as a Application and File Launcher That Quick Launch bar (to the right of the Start button) is a lot more useful than people give it credit for.  Most people simply have half a dozen icons in it, and use it to start just those programs.  But it can actually be used to instantly access just about anything in your filing system: For complete instructions on how to set this up, visit our dedicated article on this topic. Tip #38.  Put a Shortcut to Windows Explorer into Your Quick Launch Bar This is only necessary in Windows Vista and Windows XP.  The Microsoft boffins finally got wise and added it to the Windows 7 Superbar by default. Windows Explorer – the program used for managing your files and folders – is one of the most useful programs in Windows.  Anyone who considers themselves serious about being organized needs instant access to this program at any time.  A great place to create a shortcut to this program is in the Windows XP and Windows Vista “Quick Launch” bar: To get it there, locate it in your Start Menu (usually under “Accessories”) and then right-drag it down into your Quick Launch bar (and create a copy). Tip #39.  Customize the Starting Folder for Your Windows 7 Explorer Superbar Icon If you’re on Windows 7, your Superbar will include a Windows Explorer icon.  Clicking on the icon will launch Windows Explorer (of course), and will start you off in your “Libraries” folder.  Libraries may be fine as a starting point, but if you have created yourself an “Inbox” folder, then it would probably make more sense to start off in this folder every time you launch Windows Explorer. To change this default/starting folder location, then first right-click the Explorer icon in the Superbar, and then right-click Properties:Then, in Target field of the Windows Explorer Properties box that appears, type %windir%\explorer.exe followed by the path of the folder you wish to start in.  For example: %windir%\explorer.exe C:\Files If that folder happened to be on the Desktop (and called, say, “Inbox”), then you would use the following cleverness: %windir%\explorer.exe shell:desktop\Inbox Then click OK and test it out. Tip #40.  Ummmmm…. No, that’s it.  I can’t think of another one.  That’s all of the tips I can come up with.  I only created this one because 40 is such a nice round number… Case Study – An Organized PC To finish off the article, I have included a few screenshots of my (main) computer (running Vista).  The aim here is twofold: To give you a sense of what it looks like when the above, sometimes abstract, tips are applied to a real-life computer, and To offer some ideas about folders and structure that you may want to steal to use on your own PC. Let’s start with the C: drive itself.  Very minimal.  All my files are contained within C:\Files.  I’ll confine the rest of the case study to this folder: That folder contains the following: Mark: My personal files VC: My business (Virtual Creations, Australia) Others contains files created by friends and family Data contains files from the rest of the world (can be thought of as “public” files, usually downloaded from the Net) Settings is described above in tip #34 The Data folder contains the following sub-folders: Audio:  Radio plays, audio books, podcasts, etc Development:  Programmer and developer resources, sample source code, etc (see below) Humour:  Jokes, funnies (those emails that we all receive) Movies:  Downloaded and ripped movies (all legal, of course!), their scripts, DVD covers, etc. Music:  (see below) Setups:  Installation files for software (explained in full in tip #33) System:  (see below) TV:  Downloaded TV shows Writings:  Books, instruction manuals, etc (see below) The Music folder contains the following sub-folders: Album covers:  JPEG scans Guitar tabs:  Text files of guitar sheet music Lists:  e.g. “Top 1000 songs of all time” Lyrics:  Text files MIDI:  Electronic music files MP3 (representing 99% of the Music folder):  MP3s, either ripped from CDs or downloaded, sorted by artist/album name Music Video:  Video clips Sheet Music:  usually PDFs The Data\Writings folder contains the following sub-folders: (all pretty self-explanatory) The Data\Development folder contains the following sub-folders: Again, all pretty self-explanatory (if you’re a geek) The Data\System folder contains the following sub-folders: These are usually themes, plug-ins and other downloadable program-specific resources. The Mark folder contains the following sub-folders: From Others:  Usually letters that other people (friends, family, etc) have written to me For Others:  Letters and other things I have created for other people Green Book:  None of your business Playlists:  M3U files that I have compiled of my favorite songs (plus one M3U playlist file for every album I own) Writing:  Fiction, philosophy and other musings of mine Mark Docs:  Shortcut to C:\Users\Mark Settings:  Shortcut to C:\Files\Settings\Mark The Others folder contains the following sub-folders: The VC (Virtual Creations, my business – I develop websites) folder contains the following sub-folders: And again, all of those are pretty self-explanatory. Conclusion These tips have saved my sanity and helped keep me a productive geek, but what about you? What tips and tricks do you have to keep your files organized?  Please share them with us in the comments.  Come on, don’t be shy… Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Fix For When Windows Explorer in Vista Stops Showing File NamesWhy Did Windows Vista’s Music Folder Icon Turn Yellow?Print or Create a Text File List of the Contents in a Directory the Easy WayCustomize the Windows 7 or Vista Send To MenuAdd Copy To / Move To on Windows 7 or Vista Right-Click Menu TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips Acronis Online Backup DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows Track Daily Goals With 42Goals Video Toolbox is a Superb Online Video Editor Fun with 47 charts and graphs Tomorrow is Mother’s Day Check the Average Speed of YouTube Videos You’ve Watched OutlookStatView Scans and Displays General Usage Statistics

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  • How to Create Auto Playlists in Windows Media Player 12

    - by DigitalGeekery
    Are you getting tired of the same old playlists in Windows Media Player? Today we’ll show you how to create dynamic auto playlists based on criteria you choose in WMP 12 in Windows 7. Auto Playlists In Library view, click on Create playlist dropdown arrow and select Create auto playlist. On the New Auto Playlist window type in a name for the playlist in the text box. Now we need to choose our criteria by which to filter your playlist. Select Click here to add criteria. For our example, we will create a playlist of songs that were added to the library in the last week from the Alternative genre. So, we will first select Date Added from the dropdown list. Many criteria will have addition options to configure. In the example below you will see that we have a few options to fine tune.   We will filter all the songs added to the library in the last 7 days. We will select Is After from the first dropdown list. Then select Last 7 Days from the second dropdown list. You can add multiple criteria to further filter your playlist. If you can’t find the criteria you are looking for, select “More” at the bottom of the dropdown list.   This will pull up a filter window with all the criteria. Select a filter and then click OK when finished.   From the Genre dropdown, we will select Alternative. If you’d like to add Pictures, Videos, or TV Shows to your auto playlists you can do so by selecting them from the dropdown list under And also include. You will then be able to select criteria for your pictures, videos, or TV shows from the dropdown list.   Finally, you can also add restrictions to your music such as the number of items, duration, or total size. We will limit the duration of our playlist to one hour by selecting Limit Total Duration To… Then type in 1 hour…Click OK.   Our library is automatically filtered and a playlist is created based on the criteria we selected. When additional songs are added to the Windows Media Player library, any of new songs that fit the criteria will automatically be added to the New Songs playlist. You can also save a copy of an auto playlist as a regular playlist. Switch to Playlists view by clicking Playlists from either the top menu or the navigation bar. Select the Play tab and then click Clear list to remove any tracks from the list pane.   Right-click on the playlist you want to save, select Add to, and then Play list. The songs from your auto playlist will appear as an Unsaved list on the list pane. Click Save list. Type in a name for your playlist. Your auto playlist will continue to change as you add or remove items from your Media Player library that meet the criteria you established. The new saved playlist we just created will stay as it is currently. Editing a Auto playlist is easy. Right-click on the playlist and select Edit. Now you are ready to enjoy your playlist. Conclusion Auto playlists are great way to keep your playlists fresh in Windows Media Player 12. Users can get creative and experiment with the wide variety of criteria to customize their listening experience. If you are new to playlists in Windows Media Player, you may want to check our our previous post on how to create custom playlists in Windows Media Player 12. Are you looking to get better sound from WMP 12? Take a look at how to improve playback using enhancements in Windows Media Player 12. Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Create Custom Playlists in Windows Media Player 12Fixing When Windows Media Player Library Won’t Let You Add FilesInstall and Use the VLC Media Player on Ubuntu LinuxMake Windows Media Player Automatically Open in Mini Player ModeMake VLC Player Look like Windows Media Player 10 TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips VMware Workstation 7 Acronis Online Backup DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Error Goblin Explains Windows Error Codes Twelve must-have Google Chrome plugins Cool Looking Skins for Windows Media Player 12 Move the Mouse Pointer With Your Face Movement Using eViacam Boot Windows Faster With Boot Performance Diagnostics Create Ringtones For Your Android Phone With RingDroid

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