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  • Assign programs permanently to different sound-outputs in Pulseaudio?

    - by Mood
    I want to assign Skype input and output to my USB-headset while the rest of my laptop uses the internal sound-card. This is an easy task with PulseAudio Volume control (pavucontrol). The only problem I have is every time a call is made I manually have to set the output and input for Skype to my USB-device . When I hang up, Skype disappears from Volume Control. It reappears again with the next call only this time the default sound-card is selected again. It shouldn’t be hard to let PulseAudio look or the USB-headset is connected when Skype audio comes is before selecting the default. The way to do it is obvious not through Volume Control.

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  • Mobile broadband not connect without unplug and plug

    - by Muhammad Zohaib
    I have recently installed ubuntu 13.10 and I am still very new in this operating system. My problem is that when I start my computer, it detects all the wifi connections around but not my mobile broadband usb connection (huwaie). I dont get any mobile broadband section automatically. I have to unplug and then plug my broadband usb to connect and have mobile broadband section available. I dont like to unplug and then plug my device always as it will loose my laptop and I always want to be plug in laptop even in shutdown. I always want to auto detect my usb broadband by ubuntu. Please someone guide me. Thanks in advance.

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  • Live CD won't start with UEFI

    - by skytreader
    I'm trying to dual boot my Windows 8 machine with Ubuntu 12.04 but I cannot even get to the Live CD under UEFI. I've already set my UEFI boot loader to load from the DVD drive before anything else but it keeps on loading Windows 8 first thing. I've checked that the Ubuntu installer I am using is working by setting the BIOS to legacy boot; under this setting, I can get to the Live CD but it cannot detect Windows 8---something I do not want to happen. Just for the record, my boot order is as follows: ATAPI CDROM: HL-DL-ST DVDRAM GT51N USB CDROM: USB FDD USB HDD HDD: TOSHIBA [SERIAL NUMBER] Network Boot-IPV4: Network Boot-IPV6 Windows Boot Manager Has anyone ran into the same problems as me for UEFI? What am I missing here?

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  • The Dreaded Startup Repair Loop on Win 7

    - by HighAltitudeCoder
    For most people, upgrading to Windows 7 has been a relatively painless process.  Not me.  I am in the unlucky 1% or less who had a somewhat less pleasant experience.  First, I cloned my entire onto a larger (and much faster) solid state hard drive, only experiencing minimal problems. Then, I bought the Retail version of Windows 7 Ultimate, took a deep breath and... oh yeah, I almost forgot - BACK UP THE COMPUTER.  The next morning I upgraded to Win 7 and everything seemed fine, until... I rebooted the system, the nice Windows 7 launch graphics come up, it's about to launch and AWWW, are you kidding me?!?!  Back to the BIOS splash screen?  Next comes the sequence of failure - attempt repair - unable to repair - do you want to wipe your hard drive decisions. Because I purchased the retail version, a number is provided where I could call Microsoft Tech support.  When I did, they instructed me to click "Install" from my installation CD, which did not work.  When I tried the "Upgrade" option, it reaches an impasse, telling you that yoiu have a newer version of Win 7, and thus cannot Upgrade.  If you choose "Install" you willl lose everything... files, programs, EVERYTHING.  Or at least this is what it tells you.  I was not willing to take the risk. To make things worse, I had installed a new antivirus software application before I realized my system was unstable (Trend Micro Titanium Internet Security), and this was causing additional problems. One interesting thing, and the only saving grace as it turns out, was that my system WOULD successfully reboot into the OS if I chose to restart it, rather than shut it down.  If I chose to shut down, I would have to go through the loop again until I was given the option to restart. As it turned out, I needed to update my BIOS.  I assumed that since I had updated my BIOS a long time ago to settings that were stable under Windows Vista Ultimate x64, I incorrectly expected Win 7 to adopt the same settings and didn't expect there to be any problems.  WRONG. My BIOS had a setting to halt the boot cycle if various kinds of errors were detected.  Windows Vista didn't care about this, but forget it under Windows 7.  I turned immediately corrected that BIOS setting.  Next, there were the two separate BIOS settings: enable USB mouse and enable USB keyboard.  The only sequence of events that would work were to start my reboot process over from stratch with a hard-wired non-usb keyboard and mouse.  Whent the system booted under these settings, it doesn't detect any errors due to either the mouse or keyboard, and actually booted for the first time in a long while (let me tell ya, that's an amazing experience after fiddling with settings for two entire weekends!) Next step: leave your old mouse and keyboard connected, but also connect your other two devices (mouse, keyboard) that use USB connections.  During the boot cycle, the operating system will not fail due to missing requirements during startup, and it will then pick up the new drivers necessary to use your new hardware. If you think you are in the clear here, you are wrong.  The next VERY IMPORTANT step is to remember to change your settings in the BIOS upon next startup.  Specifically, yoiu will need ot change your BIOS to enable USB mouse and enable USB keyboard input.  If you don't, Windows will detect an incompatibility upon the next startup, and you will be stuck once again in the endless cycle of reboot/Startup Repair/reboot/Startup Repair, without ever reaching a successful boot. Here's the thing - the BIOS and the drivers registered in Win 7 need to match.  If they don't, you're going to lose another weekend worrying and fiddling, all the while wondering if you've permanently damaged your hard drive beyond repair. (Sigh).  In the end, things worked out.  I must note that it is saddening to see how many posts there are out there that recommend just doing a clean install, as if it's the only option.  How many countless poor souls have lost their data, their backups, their pictures and videos, all for nothing other than the fact that the person giving advice just didn't know what to do at that point? My advice to you, try having a look at your BIOS settings first and making sure Win 7 can find your BIOS settings, and also disabling in your BIOS anything that might halt your system boot-up process if it encounters errors.

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  • If I enable/disable my wireless device, my computer will panic

    - by Yinyanghu
    Now, I use Debian 6.0.6 instead of Fedora 16/17. But I still sustain the problem of my wireless problem. If I enable/disable my laptop wireless device or my usb wifi adaptor, my laptop will panic. It seems like all the processes stop at that time and I have to restart my laptop directly. P.S. I think I installed the drivers correctly and the linux kernel may have some bugs. For example, when I unplug my usb wifi adaptor or I use this command, ifdown wlan0 I encounter this problem. Wireless Device: PCI: 03:00.0 Network controller: Broadcom Corporation BCM43225 802.11b/g/n (rev 01) USB: Bus 002 Device 005: ID 0bda:8176 Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL8188CUS 802.11n WLAN

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  • What is default username & password for a persistent pendrive?

    - by sdos
    I am trying out Ubuntu 11.04 on a netbook. I created a live USB to boot from using this: http://www.pendrivelinux.com/universal-usb-installer-easy-as-1-2-3/ and the system boots up into Ubuntu from the USB stick, great! bad news is I am presented with a login form.... I did not set a password so I have no idea what it could be.... username: other password: I have tried no password, no luck... I tried ubuntu, no luck Any Ideas why it has a password, and what it might be or how I can set the password?

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  • Installed Ubuntu using WUBI due to lack of CD Drive

    - by Chantelle
    I have installed 12.04 via WUBI because my computer does not have a CD Drive. Is there any way that I can delete Windows 7 from my computer and use the whole HD for Ubuntu? I ask this question because for one reason or another I cannot boot from a boot-able USB stick (either in Windows or Ubuntu, however the USB port works because I am able to use my cell phone's tethering plan using all the USB ports to connect to the Internet). Edit: Just found out the problem. Eee PC Model 1018p's do not boot from any format other than FAT and FAT16 and not FAT32.

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  • How do I access an external drive mounted on a machine on my own network?

    - by avilella
    I've got one desktop computer Ubuntu 11.04 with an external USB drive mounted on it on the home WRT54L Linux network (192.168.0.2), and when I arrive at home with my laptop, I want to be able to mount the external USB drive from my Ubuntu 11.04 laptop (192.168.0.3) to the desktop, without having to unplug it from the desktop, that is accessing it. Is it possible to send a remote mount command to the desktop usb drive from my laptop? Ideally something that creates a local mountpoint I can just call locally from the programs installed in my laptop, like: username@laptop ~ ./myprograminlaptop /my/file/which/is/actually/on/the/desktop/file.txt

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  • Ubuntu won't boot on windows starter

    - by First timer
    I installed Ubuntu 12.04 LTS yesterday from a usb, but it only boots into Windows unless the usb is in, then it boots into the Ubuntu loader where I can choose Ubuntu vs. Windows. What's the problem? I run windows starter on a netbook with 1 gb ram and intel atom processor. I tried to install boot-repair but it won't work either. I follow the instructions for the Terminal and it seems to go right until I try launching it - then it says that it does not know the command boot-repair. I really like Ubuntu, it lets this netbook run smoothly and better than ever before but I don't think I want to boot from a usb every time.

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  • How do I get the wireless card on a Lenovo S205 working?

    - by user206829
    I tried to install 12.04, 13.04, and now 13.10 on the machine and followed all the instructions that made sense that I could find and still have not gotten wifi to work. It keeps it hard blocked for some reason, not sure why and not sure anyone out there either has figured it out because I would have found it on Google. When I boot from the formatted USB drive, I have WiFi and everything working, why doesn't work after the USB drive is removed? What driver is the USB/wubi or whatever using so that I can install it and have things working? I could have used wubi and installed Ubuntu like that, but I want to make this machine a fully dedicated Ubuntu machine. The laptop is a Lenovo S205 in case anyone can help. I really would like to use 12.04 or higher, i don't want to downgrade to an older version of Ubuntu if at all possible.

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  • How do I force Windows 7 to recognize my Projector?

    - by user63564
    I have a new Dell XPS with an NVIDIA GeForce GT 445M and an old (several years) Epson PowerLite Cinema 550 projector. Windows 7 refuses to recognize that the projector is connected under normal conditions (I'll get to the strange condition in a moment). Here are some things that I have already tried: Confirm that the projector continues to work well on my old Windows XP laptop. Confirm that the video cable (HDMI to HDMI) is connected Make sure the Dell laptop is plugged in to wall power at all times Reboot both the computer and the projector Click "Detect" under the "Connect to an External Display" Windows dialog (no reaction) Click "Rigorous Display Detection" under NVIDIA Control Panel (dialog: none found) Checked "Force Television Detection on startup" under "My display is not shown..." in NVIDIA Control Panel (no effect) Here's where it gets weird... My projector has three states: off, standby and on. Standby means the power switch on the back is on, but the projector is effectively off (no picture, no access to menu or controls). When I plug in the HDMI cable while the projector is in standby, Windows detects the projector! It lets me switch to Duplicate, Extend, or Project Only mode, and adjusts the resolution appropriately. A new Generic Plug-n-Play monitor shows up in my device manager. A "Seiko EPSON PJ" display shows up in my NVIDIA control panel. Then if I turn my projector on, Windows no longer recognizes the display. This is true whether I turn the projector on while the HDMI cable is plugged in, or if I unplug the HDMI cable while turning on the projector. Anyone have any ideas, because I'm completely stumped...?

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  • Why can I not access the internet when Windows 7 finds no issue with the ethernet connection and the network can see my device?

    - by WannabeCoder
    So I just moved from a house to an apartment. In the house and the apartment I had Uverse set up - and in both I had my desktop connected via a ~40 foot long cat5 cable. However, upon moving to the apartment I found that my ethernet connection no longer provides internet. This would seem like a mundane problem if not for: The router can see the computer on the network Windows 7 (the desktop's OS) detects no problems with the ethernet connection. Connections over the internet (i.e. browser windows, Pandora, etc.) do not immediately fail. Instead they load for 2 minutes and then finally give up. Devices connected over the Wifi (PS4, Laptop) access the internet just fine While removing the cat5 cable from my house, I accidentally damaged the locking tab but managed to bend it back into the appropriate position. I would suspect that a bad cat5 cable might be to blame if not for the above issues (thought I've heard bad cat5 cables cause the most nonsensical problems) and the fact that I tested the cat5 cable by having it share internet between my laptop (working internet) to my desktop and it functioned just fine and provided the desktop with internet. My ipconfig /all successfully finds a default gateway, DHCP server, and DNS server. What could possibly be causing the problem?

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  • Two NIC's 2 Internet Connections, 1 Windows Server 2008 RC2, Routing help required

    - by PJZ
    Hello, I have a Windows 2008 server and 4 other client machines on my home network. I have two internet connections. The main connection is setup with a home router and DHCP on that for all the clients on the network. The secondary connection is just a cable modem which is plugged directly into the server. Local Area Connection: This NIC has an external IP and is connected to the Cable Modem. Local Area Connection 2: This NIC has an internal IP (192.168.0.102) and allows access to all the internal computers. It also has internet access via the local router. So here lies the problem, I want to use the Cable connection on the server for the internet traffic (so that the traffic for server/clients are seperated) but I also need to maintain local access. I am wondering how to make it so that all the internet traffic goes via that NIC because at the moment it goes through the local NIC. As a secondary problem I would also like to forward the connection of one application used by the clients via the server and the cable/server internet because of poor routing for it on the main connection. This perhaps is something for another question though. Thanks for any help you can offer me. Regards PJ

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  • Are HDMI to VGA Adapters Really Device-Specific?

    - by allquixotic
    There are a lot of devices on the market right now (especially mobile devices) with a Micro-HDMI or Mini-HDMI port and no VGA or D-Sub output. Most manufacturers of said devices sell a cable that looks something like this: I have yet to find a cable like this that claims to work on a wide array of devices. In general, these cables claim to work with one specific device only. The way these cables work, I think, is that analog VGA signals are sent from the HDMI port on the device. This should work for devices that have special hardware on the motherboard/GPU capable of driving this. Is it the case that these cables have to be custom designed for each device? Or, is it rather that any device which possesses this special "signaling of analog VGA over the HDMI port" can be made to work with a cable that is physically compatible (i.e. the HDMI end plugs into the device and the VGA end accepts a VGA monitor cable)? Note that I am not looking for a product recommendation, just a conceptual clarification on what exactly these devices are doing. Also, a few remarks: The cables like the one depicted here are not digital to analog converters. I know about these: they are expensive, and they are the ONLY solution if your device only outputs a digital signal and is incapable of driving analog VGA over the HDMI port. The cables like the one depicted here are not straight crossover cables from VGA to HDMI, either. The crossover cables are designed to send a digital HDMI signal over the VGA port's wires; that is, the wire protocol is HDMI (digital) but the physical pinout is the same as VGA, even though nothing analog is happening. Once again, this is not the behavior that, I believe, the devices which I'm talking about in this question are doing. The cabling and devices that this question is about transmit the analog VGA data over the HDMI port (the HDMI port is in the device outputting the data, and the VGA side is the monitor/projector).

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  • Windows Explorer slow to open networked computer, fast to navigate once opened

    - by Scott Noyes
    I open Windows Explorer and enter an IP for a computer on my home network (\\192.168.1.101). It takes 30 seconds or more to present a list of the shared folders. It does not appear to be an initial handshaking/authentication thing; even if I allow the view to load and then immediately load the same again, it is always slow. Once they appear, navigating through folders and opening files is fast. Also, navigating directly to a folder (\\192.168.1.101\My Music) is fast, even if it's the first connection since a restart. Using \\computerName instead of the IP address gives exactly the same results. Pings return in 1ms. net view \\computerName (or \ipAddress) returns the list of shared folders fast. This makes me suspect an Explorer issue rather than a network issue. Suspecting that the remote computer was being automatically indexed or something, I went into Tools-Folder Options-View and unchecked "Automatically search for network folders and printers," but that made no difference. De-selecting the "Folders" icon near the address bar makes no difference. Adding the IP address and computer name to the hosts file makes no difference. Both computers involved are laptops running Windows XP. Both have WiFi and cable adapters. Mine is not connected via cable. The result is the same whether the target is plugged in to the cable or not (although the IP address changes - 192.168.1.101 over cable, 192.168.1.103 over WiFi.) We are using DHCP assigned by the router.

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  • Broad Band LAN connection through existing 6 wire phone line ( no phone connected )

    - by Paul Taylor
    I have an (up to but never achieved ) 10 mb broadband signal coming into my house along the telephone line. The modem then connects the broadband signal via a LAN connection and Wi-Fi signal to my computers and iPad. My workshop desk is 54 yards (approx. 50m) downhill from the modem (part of a separate building) – too far to give a good direct signal. The inside corner of the workshop (by a window) receives a weak signal. I have a disconnected telephone cable consisting of 6 wires going from the house to the workshop. The telephone is no longer used in the workshop - we use our mobile number for business calls. A broad band signal using the cable would not have to share with a phone. What would be the most economic price/efficient way to get the broadband signal to the workshop? I am writing in hope that since the telephone didn't need the six wires, an Ethernet connection might be similar and not need all the eight wires for a LAN connection. In theory could use the telephone wire to pull an Ethernet cable trough the underground pipe but I doubt if the cable would survive the strain. The broad band connection in the workshop does not have to have network facility. My skill level is high enough to do house wiring, plumbing and gas fitting; so given any sound advice and a wiring diagram or instructions I can probably work out the rest myself.

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  • How to send from my Z88 to my PC

    - by Bevan
    I've got a Cambridge Z88 that I want to get working with my PC. Around 6 years ago - in 2004 - I made heavy use of my Z88 to do a whole bunch of writing on the train while commuting to and from work. The Z88 is solid state, lightweight and has a full size silent keyboard, so it works very well as a writing instrument. I still have the serial cable I soldered up back then and used successfully in 2004. It has these connections: Z88 9 pin ----- ------- 2 TxD ------> RxD 2 3 RxD <------ TxD 3 7 GND <-----> GND 5 4 RTS ------> CTS 8 5 CTS <-+ RTS 7 8 DCD <-+---- DTR 4 9 DTR ----+-> DCD 1 +-> DSR 6 Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find my notes from 2004 that describe how I got it to work back then. I've spent several hours trying to Google a result, but to no avail. I'm pretty sure the cable is fine - after all, it's what I used successfully six years ago, and I've checked it out with a multimeter - so I'm focusing on the PC end of things, which is where I'd like some assistance. Q1: In my recent attempts, I've been using both Hyperterminal (as built into Windows XP) and the command line (copy com2: con:), but with no success. What's a good (better!) serial communications application to use? Is there one that allows me to see as deep as the signalling that's occurring on the wire? Q2: If you have a Z88 that works correctly with your PC, what software do you use on the PC end, and what's the pinout of your cable? I'm pretty sure that the Z88 itself is working properly: When using the built in Import/Export tool to send a file, I see different behaviour when my serial cable is connected compared to disconnected. When disconnected, the transmission appears to work, with a progress meter counting up and then finishing; when connected, nothing happens 'cept a timeout if I wait long enough.

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  • Switched from DVI to HDMI, possible audio artifacts?

    - by I take Drukqs
    I'm using an ASUS VH236H monitor and an EVGA GeForce 570 GTX both of which are brand new. My monitor has an audio out port for speakers/headphones so I plugged in my headphones and made a random selection from my library when I noticed two things: There are static-like artifacts during "louder" parts of songs. There's what seems to be a volume cap in place. When I crank the volume past 100% in VLC the decibel level does not truly increase but the amount of static does. The cable is not new; I yanked it off of my PS3 when my DVI cable broke. It has been used a good amount on my HDTV and PS3 so I doubt it's a matter of burn-in. I like the way the setup works with an HDMI cable as opposed to DVI because my headphones barely reach my rig whereas I have plenty of slack when they're plugged into my monitor. Thanks in advance for any support. Note: I'm using a high quality HDMI cable from monoprice, AKG K702 headphones, and VLC media player.

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  • Gigabyte H55N-USB3: No video on HDMI

    - by newt
    I built a new PC with a Gigabyte H55N-USB3 / Intel Core i5 650. With a monitor plugged in the DVI port, everything works fine. I installed Windows 7 32-bit and enabled remote desktop connection. After that, I unplugged the monitor, plugged it into network and installed everything else (drivers, programs, etc) via RDP. However, when I try to use the HDMI port on my TV nothing appears. Neither during the boot, neither after Windows starts. The TV says there's "no signal" (if I remove the cable the message changes to "check cable"). The cable is new, and it is working fine with my home theater on same TV (by the way, it is the cable which came bundled with the home theater). Video driver is the latest from Intel site. Anyway, this shouldn't be the problem since there is no image during the boot. Any ideas or tips would be welcome. I'm googling around but found nothing useful, yet.

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  • wireless to wired internet

    - by Mark T
    My wife uses an old computer which doesn't really like having an internet connection via a USB wireless adapter. I've tried several, and none have been satisfactory. The connection gets dropped often and it is frustrating for her. A wireless card also had the same trouble. Repositioning the computer made no difference. (Two laptops, nearby, connect just fine and stay up, so it isn't the router.) However, the computer always worked well when I had an Ethernet cable connected to it. I know there is a box which will connect to my wireless network and provide an Ethernet cable connection. But the terminology used is so complex, I can't tell what it is I really need. In case that wasn't clear, here it is in different words: What I need is just the opposite of a wireless router. My wireless router takes my cable modem's Ethernet connection and makes it available to wireless clients. What I want is a box which is a wireless client to my wireless router and provides an Ethernet cable connection that I can connect to any device. I need to know the right name for a box with such capabilities. If you know of some inexpensive examples, that would also be helpful. I'm running a wireless G network with a Linksys Router.

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  • Route all traffic of home network through VPN

    - by user436118
    I have a typical semi advanced home network scenario: A cable modem - eth A wireless router (netgear n600) eth and wlan A home server (Running ubuntu 12.04 LTS, connected over wlan) A bunch of wireless clients (wlan) Lying around I have anoher cheaper wlan router, and two different USB wlan NIC's that are known to work with Linux. ACTA struck. I want to route ALL of my WAN traffic through a remote server through a VPN. For sake of completition, lets say there is a remote server running debian sqeeze where a VPN server is to be installed. The network is then to behave so that if the VPN is not operative, it is separated from the outside world. I am familiar with general system/network practices, but lack the specific detailed knowledge to accomplish this. Please suggest the right approach, packages and configurations you'd use to reach said solution. I've also envisioned the following network configuration, please improve it if you see fit: ==LAN== Client ip:10.1.1.x nm:255.0.0.0 gw:10.1.1.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 1: ip: 10.1.1.1 nm:255.0.0.0 gw: 10.10.10.1 reached via ETH Homeserver: <<< VPN is initiated here, and the other endpoint is somewhere on the internet. eth0: ip:10.10.10.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw:192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Homeserver: wlan0: ip: 192.168.0.2 nm: 255.255.255.0 gw: 192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN ==WAN== Wlan router 2: ip: 192.168.0.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw: set via dhcp uplink connector: cable modem Cable Modem: Remote DHCP. Has on-board DHCP server for ethernet device that connects to it, and only works this way. All this WLAN fussery is because my home server is located in a part of the house where a cable link isnt possible unfortunately.

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  • Route all traffic of home network through VPN [migrated]

    - by user436118
    I have a typical semi advanced home network scenario: A cable modem - eth A wireless router (netgear n600) eth and wlan A home server (Running ubuntu 12.04 LTS, connected over wlan) A bunch of wireless clients (wlan) Lying around I have anoher cheaper wlan router, and two different USB wlan NIC's that are known to work with Linux. ACTA struck. I want to route ALL of my WAN traffic through a remote server through a VPN. For sake of completition, lets say there is a remote server running debian sqeeze where a VPN server is to be installed. The network is then to behave so that if the VPN is not operative, it is separated from the outside world. I am familiar with general system/network practices, but lack the specific detailed knowledge to accomplish this. Please suggest the right approach, packages and configurations you'd use to reach said solution. I've also envisioned the following network configuration, please improve it if you see fit: Client ip:10.1.1.x nm:255.0.0.0 gw:10.1.1.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 1: ip: 10.1.1.1 nm:255.0.0.0 gw: 10.10.10.1 reached via ETH Homeserver: <<< VPN is initiated here, and the other endpoint is somewhere on the internet. eth0: ip:10.10.10.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw:192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Homeserver: wlan0: ip: 192.168.0.2 nm: 255.255.255.0 gw: 192.168.0.1 reached via WLAN Wlan router 2: ip: 192.168.0.1 nm: 0.0.0.0 gw: set via dhcp uplink connector: cable modem Cable Modem: Remote DHCP. Has on-board DHCP server for ethernet device that connects to it, and only works this way. All this WLAN fussery is because my home server is located in a part of the house where a cable link isnt possible unfortunately.

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  • Create a wifi hotspot in a place where an authentication is required [closed]

    - by SoftTimur
    I live in a residence where Internet is provided via cable. Once the computer is connected to the cable, launching a browser will trigger an authentication, I have a username and password to enter, then the internet will be connected. With a gateway (e.g. Wireless Cable Voice Gateway Model CBVG834G) and 2 cables, two PCs can connect to the Internet with my account at the same time. Now the question is, I don't like the cable, and would like to create a wifi hotspot. It seems realizable with the same gateway. According to the instruction on page 2-4 of the manual: Enter http://192.168.0.1 in the address field of your Internet browser. Log in to the gateway with either of the default user names, MSO or admin... However, trying to open 192.168.0.1 gives me an error on the browser. Does anyone know what happened? Is it due to the authentication required by my residence? Is there any other way to build a hotspot of wifi? PS: My system is MAC OS

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  • Can no longer duplicate display to external monitor on Windows 7

    - by rbeier
    We have a large TV at work - I connect my laptop to it to share my screen during meetings. Until today, my laptop display has been duplicating to the TV automatically when I connect the TV cable to the laptop. The display resolution would decrease automatically to be compatible with the TV. Today, however, it's stopped working. When I connect the cable to the TV, the display extends rather than duplicating. Using the Win+P key combination (or Fn+F7 on my Lenovo laptop), I can choose to duplicate the display - but when I do this, it ends up only displaying on the laptop. I can get it to display on the TV by hitting Win+P and choosing "projector only", but then I can't see what I'm doing on the laptop screen. I have a Lenovo W520 laptop running Windows 7, connected to the TV using a DisplayPort-to-HDMI converter cable. The TV's native resolution is 1280x720; the laptop's native resolution is 1600x900. I've tried booting with the TV cable already connected; I've tried manually lowering the display resolution on the laptop to 1280x720 before duplicating the display. Neither works. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

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  • How can I change mouse keymapping

    - by zuberuber
    I have Razer DeathAdder(left handed edition) and A4Tech wireless mouse. My problem is I don't know how to change wireless mouse keymapping(swaping left/right click). Can somebody guide me how to do such thing? List of my devices: ? Virtual core pointer id=2 [master pointer (3)] ? ? Virtual core XTEST pointer id=4 [slave pointer (2)] ? ? Logitech Unifying Device. Wireless PID:4004 id=8 [slave pointer (2)] ? ? Razer Razer DeathAdder id=11 [slave pointer (2)] ? ? A4TECH USB Device id=12 [slave pointer (2)] ? ? A4TECH USB Device id=13 [slave pointer (2)] ? Virtual core keyboard id=3 [master keyboard (2)] ? Virtual core XTEST keyboard id=5 [slave keyboard (3)] ? Power Button id=6 [slave keyboard (3)] ? Power Button id=7 [slave keyboard (3)] ? Logitech USB Keyboard id=9 [slave keyboard (3)] ? Logitech USB Keyboard id=10 [slave keyboard (3)] This is my Razer xinput: Device 'Razer Razer DeathAdder': Device Enabled (121): 1 Coordinate Transformation Matrix (123): 1.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 1.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 1.000000 Device Accel Profile (246): 0 Device Accel Constant Deceleration (247): 5.000000 Device Accel Adaptive Deceleration (248): 1.000000 Device Accel Velocity Scaling (249): 10.000000 Device Product ID (240): 5426, 22 Device Node (241): "/dev/input/event4" Evdev Axis Inversion (250): 0, 0 Evdev Axes Swap (252): 0 Axis Labels (253): "Rel X" (131), "Rel Y" (132), "Rel Vert Wheel" (274) Button Labels (254): "Button Left" (124), "Button Middle" (125), "Button Right" (126), "Button Wheel Up" (127), "Button Wheel Down" (128), "Button Horiz Wheel Left" (129), "Button Horiz Wheel Right" (130), "Button Side" (269), "Button Extra" (270), "Button Forward" (271), "Button Back" (272), "Button Task" (273), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243) Evdev Middle Button Emulation (255): 0 Evdev Middle Button Timeout (256): 50 Evdev Third Button Emulation (257): 0 Evdev Third Button Emulation Timeout (258): 1000 Evdev Third Button Emulation Button (259): 3 Evdev Third Button Emulation Threshold (260): 20 Evdev Wheel Emulation (261): 0 Evdev Wheel Emulation Axes (262): 0, 0, 4, 5 Evdev Wheel Emulation Inertia (263): 10 Evdev Wheel Emulation Timeout (264): 200 Evdev Wheel Emulation Button (265): 4 Evdev Drag Lock Buttons (266): 0 And this is my wireless mouse xinput: Device 'A4TECH USB Device': Device Enabled (121): 1 Coordinate Transformation Matrix (123): 1.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 1.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 0.000000, 1.000000 Device Accel Profile (246): 0 Device Accel Constant Deceleration (247): 1.000000 Device Accel Adaptive Deceleration (248): 1.000000 Device Accel Velocity Scaling (249): 10.000000 Device Product ID (240): 2522, 1359 Device Node (241): "/dev/input/event16" Evdev Axis Inversion (250): 0, 0 Evdev Axes Swap (252): 0 Axis Labels (253): "Rel X" (131), "Rel Y" (132), "Rel Horiz Wheel" (245), "Rel Vert Wheel" (274) Button Labels (254): "Button Left" (124), "Button Middle" (125), "Button Right" (126), "Button Wheel Up" (127), "Button Wheel Down" (128), "Button Horiz Wheel Left" (129), "Button Horiz Wheel Right" (130), "Button Side" (269), "Button Extra" (270), "Button Forward" (271), "Button Back" (272), "Button Task" (273), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243), "Button Unknown" (243) Evdev Middle Button Emulation (255): 0 Evdev Middle Button Timeout (256): 50 Evdev Third Button Emulation (257): 0 Evdev Third Button Emulation Timeout (258): 1000 Evdev Third Button Emulation Button (259): 3 Evdev Third Button Emulation Threshold (260): 20 Evdev Wheel Emulation (261): 0 Evdev Wheel Emulation Axes (262): 0, 0, 4, 5 Evdev Wheel Emulation Inertia (263): 10 Evdev Wheel Emulation Timeout (264): 200 Evdev Wheel Emulation Button (265): 4 Evdev Drag Lock Buttons (266): 0

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