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• Correct way to set up office network - 8 workstations, a file server and a staging server

  - by naunu

  Our office had this old school windows 2003 domain setup, our server caught fire, and now we are looking to do it right from scratch. Here is what we need: 5 PC and 3 Mac workstations for web development, they will each have WAMP/MAMP setup on them, managed by their developers. We will have a file server for assets, and a LAMP server with an external IP for staging. Here is what we have to work with: 5 IP addresses, brand new PC file server with windows 2008 SE, D-Link DSS-16+ 16 port switch, belkin 5 port wireless router, cable modem with 4 ports. How I have it set up now (this is a temporary makeshift setup): Cable modem = LAMP server, wireless router Wireless router = Switch = All of the workstations and file server (setup as a workgroup). We have noticed our internet is very slow with us all plugged in to the switch, and the switch plugged in to the router. I am not positive, but I think it is because our router does not have NAT. We are also having problems with the MACs connection to the network drive - it keeps disconnecting. I want this done right, and we have a ~$600 budget to buy anything else we need. Does anybody have any advice for me? Should I set up a domain or workgroup?

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• DD-WRT (WRT54G) and (THOMSON TG782) how to put them togather?

  - by FeRtoll

  Ok so let me explain, i bought WRT54G and successfully installed DD-WRT v24-sp1 (07/26/08) mini-special - build 9994. That's all ok no problems with it all normal functioning. And just to add (i don't need wireless, wireless is turned off always) What i want: ISP's router (TG782) from it's INTERNET port(out) cable "which was before in my pc" is connected to WRT54G's INTERNET port and then from WRT54G LAN port 1 to my pc. The problem: How do i connect and setup all? I have tried many times on many different ways but cant get it to work IF THE CABLE FROM TG782 IS CONNECTED TO WRT54G ON INTERNET PORT. If i connect the TG782 to Lan port 1 on WRT54G and my pc to lan port 2 then all works fine after i setup gateway and all. But i want to connect TG782 to Internet port of WRT54G because i need "Access Restrictions" and this only goes through WAN right? please correct me if i am wrong. What i have tried: This is how i have tried to setup all. The TG782 router ip is 192.168.1.1 And WRT54G ip is 192.168.1.30 so in WRT54G control panel i have setup like this: ----WAN Connection Type---- Connection Type: Automatic Configuration - DHCP STP: Disabled ----Router IP---- Local IP Address: 192.168.1.30 Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0 Gateway: 192.168.1.1 (the TG782) ----Network Address Server Settings (DHCP)---- DHCP Type: DHCP Server Start IP Address: 192.168.1.100 Maximum DHCP Users: 6 And this wont work i probably miss something more, if anyone can help i would be thankfull. Also i have to note that i have tried to set my network adapter on pc to use the gateway of WRT54G and ip 192.168.1.102 In short: i cant get it to work normal only as a switch! Thanks for any help! -------EDIT:------- Here is an image which maybe can help: http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/4227/allin1w.jpg

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• Internet slowed down because of SQUID Server setup

  - by Ranjith Kumar

  Recently I have setup a squid server for our office. I have computer (A) with two ethernet cards, one for internet and the second one for local networkIt has Ubuntu server OS with squid-server and dhcp3-server installedI have added few iptable rules to work like a router and redirect all http traffic to 3128 port This link is my reference. Everything worked fine for 2 days. All of a sudden internet speed went down drastically. When I connected the internet cable to my laptop to test the internet speed it was fine. Again when I reconnected it back to computer A everything was normal. This happened 4 times in a week. Could anyone here please help me why the internet speed is going down and it becomes normal when I reconnect the cable. EDIT: Rebooting the system (computer A) didn't make a difference. I have changed iptables so that http traffic doesn't redirect to 3128 port any further, still no change in the internet speed. I think the problem is not with squid but with something else. Here are my iptable rules SQUID_SERVER="10.1.1.1" INTERNET="eth1" LAN_IN="eth0" SQUID_PORT="3128" PROXYSERVERS=(Atlanta Baltimore Boston Chicago Dallas Denver Houston KansasCity LosAngeles Miami NewYork Philadelphia Phoenix SanAntonio SanDiego SanJose Seattle Washington) SERVERLEN=${#PROXYSERVERS[*]} I=0 iptables -F iptables -X iptables -t nat -F iptables -t nat -X iptables -t mangle -F iptables -t mangle -X modprobe ip_conntrack modprobe ip_conntrack_ftp echo 1 /proc/sys/net/ipv4/ip_forward iptables -P INPUT DROP iptables -P OUTPUT ACCEPT iptables -A INPUT -i lo -j ACCEPT iptables -A OUTPUT -o lo -j ACCEPT iptables -A INPUT -i $INTERNET -m state --state ESTABLISHED,RELATED -j ACCEPT iptables --table nat --append POSTROUTING --out-interface $INTERNET -j MASQUERADE iptables --append FORWARD --in-interface $LAN_IN -j ACCEPT iptables -A INPUT -i $LAN_IN -j ACCEPT iptables -A OUTPUT -o $LAN_IN -j ACCEPT while [ $I -lt $SERVERLEN ]; do iptables -t nat -A PREROUTING -i $LAN_IN -p tcp -d ${PROXYSERVERS[$I]}.wonderproxy.com --dport 80 -j ACCEPT let I++ done iptables -t nat -A PREROUTING -i $LAN_IN -p tcp --dport 80 -j DNAT --to $SQUID_SERVER:$SQUID_PORT iptables -A INPUT --protocol tcp --dport 80 -j ACCEPT iptables -A INPUT --protocol tcp --dport 443 -j ACCEPT iptables -A INPUT --protocol tcp --dport 22 -j ACCEPT iptables -A INPUT -j LOG iptables -A INPUT -j DROP

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• No signal on monitor after plug it to a linux box

  - by yaroot

  I use my old computer as an NAS, so I remove the monitor after I installed linux on it (disconnect vga cable). I use ssh to control the machine and it works fine. Until some day, after kernel/softare upgrade or messing up some configs, I cannot connect to it through ssh, then I have to plug the monitor back, but the monitor says "No input signal". So I have to restart the computer WITH the monitor connected, and the monitor's back! I think the computer/linux kernel doesn't detect the monitor plug-in event. So how can I start my linux box without a monitor, but when it goes wrong I can still plug my monitor (vga) back and use the console. Edit: just one pci-e video card, has dvi, vga, tv/out (s-video) Edit2: Xorg is not running. I just need the console (CTRL+ALT+F1). The problem is, if the machine booted without a monitor connected, it won't give me a pseudo terminal after I attach the vga cable while it's running. Clearly the monitor is not auto detected as usb device. I'm wondering how to let the monitor auto detected.

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• Distorted Sound

  - by BCable

  I have my laptop hooked up to my receiver for sound output. I hear a hissing/crackling background sound that is really loud and hard to just ignore (but possible). When my 360 is connected, the sound comes out perfect, so it's just with this laptop. Previously, I thought it was just my laptop and just submissively just let it slide. I just bought a brand new laptop though and it's doing the same thing. I have found out more information now that I know it's not my laptop. I have used this laptop in similar environments where it worked just fine (different speakers). I have bought a new cable to connect to my receiver and it did nothing (headphone jack to RCA). I tried different ports on the receiver (Video 1-3) and it always happens. I have discovered that the sound goes away if I unplug my laptop (so it's running on battery). Because of the last one, I tried plugging my laptop into a different outlet across the room and it's STILL doing it. Doesn't matter if I boot to Linux or Windows, yet my phone (Android G1) doesn't cause this sound using the exact same cable. Any ideas? I'm out of them! Thanks!

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• arp requests are sent continuously and my linux machine disconnected to the world

  - by sees

  I have the following problem and really need your help I'm implementing a small server to receive request from client on port 18999(just sample) using TCP socket. When I tested my server by using a lot of requests from a tablet through a router, I got the ARP problem(?) My net work just like: TABLET <------- WIRELESS ROUTER <------- MY SERVER (LINUX) Problems: 1. Can not connect to my Linux any more ( telnet, ping v.v...unreachable) 2. I use serial cable to connect to my Linux machine and use Wiresharp (from Windows) to catch the send message from Linux. It says that Linux keeps sending out continuously every 3 seconds ARP messages like the following: xx:xx:99:77:ff:69 ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff ARP 60 Who has 192.168.10.2? Tell 192.168.10.3 In the above message: xx:xx:99:77:ff:69 my Linux MAC address 192.168.10.2 my Tablet address 192.168.10.3 my Linux IP address Can you help me figure out the problem? Or tell me the way to detect the problem and reset the network back to normal (maybe restart Linux but I want to detect problem and restart automatically) UPDATE: 1. The above network works normally if tablet sends messages to my LINUX in normal speed (but also down after 48 hours) 2. The router works again after I unplugged my Linux ethernet cable (RJ45) from router. 3. The wireless network still works ( I can browser the router page from tablet) 4. When I use: ifconfig down then ifconfig up , the Linux restarts (?????????)

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• Windows XP can use a wired network port, but MacBook (OS X) fails on the same port

  - by Dean Hill

  I wired the Cat5 in my house seven years ago. The wired ports have worked fine with both my Windows XP laptop and MacBook. My wireless network also works fine, but I like to use wired occasionally. One of the Cat5 runs wasn't terminated with a jack, so I recently terminated this wire with a port/jack on the wall end and a standard Cat5 plug on the end that plugs into my router. This is the same setup as my other runs. Unfortunately, the MacBook isn't working well with the new wired port. The OS X Network System Preferences show the IP, Subnet, Router, etc., and everything looks fine. A "netstat -ibd" shows no errors or dropped packets. However, when I open a page in Safari, the status says "Contacting 'www.google.com'" and appears to hang. If I wait for a couple minutes, part of the Google page starts to display, but it is still not the full page load. When I use a Windows XP laptop on the same wired port, everything works fine. An internet speed test shows good results and all web pages load fine. A "netstat -e" under Windows shows no errors. I've used a Cat5 tester, and the cable tests fine (wires 1-8 light up in sequence). I've replaced both the port/jack and the connector twice to make sure I wired things correctly. I'd really like this Cat5 to work with the MacBook (and I'm trying to avoid running a new length of cable). Any ideas what the problem could be?

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• Media Center setup won't complete for watching TV

  - by Robert

  I have a problem watching TV in Media Center. The TV constantly pauses 1/2 second then plays 1 second, pauses 1/2 second, plays 1 second - it is constant and does not vary. This problem occurs on all channels, live or recorded. The bottom 5th of the screen is solid green. I know the problem is Media Center because I can use Pinnacle's TVCenterPro and there is no skipping/pausing (and not green on bottom). I was using cable, and switched to DirecTV (satellite). Trying to do "Set up TV signal" in Media Center seems to be what broke it. I get an error "IR Hardware not detected." I can use the remote to "try again" - so the IR hardware works fine (Media Center's remote/sensor). I tried plugging the IR Blaster into both ports, and I tried a different USB port for the IR receiver. I can't complete the setup. Media Center was playing it okay before I tried to run setup. (I ran setup to try to do recording with Media Center.) Pinnacle PCTV 800i HD PCI card (coax cable from DirecTV tuner), ATI Radeon HD 3200 Graphics, Windows XP SP3 Media Center Edition, AMD Athlon Dual Core 2.5 GHz, 1.75 GB RAM.

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• Is encryption really needed for having network security? [closed]

  - by Cawas

  I welcome better key-wording here, both on tags and title. I'm trying to conceive a free, open and secure network environment that would work anywhere, from big enterprises to small home networks of just 1 machine. I think since wireless Access Points are the most, if not only, true weak point of a Local Area Network (let's not consider every other security aspect of having internet) there would be basically two points to consider here: Having an open AP for anyone to use the internet through Leaving the whole LAN also open for guests to be able to easily read (only) files on it, and even a place to drop files on Considering these two aspects, once everything is done properly... What's the most secure option between having that, or having just an encrypted password-protected wifi? Of course "both" would seem "more secure". But it shouldn't actually be anything substantial. I've always had the feeling using any kind of the so called "wireless security" methods is actually a bad design. I'm talking mostly about encrypting and pass-phrasing (which are actually two different concepts), since I won't even consider hiding SSID and mac filtering. I understand it's a natural way of thinking. With cable networking nobody can access the network unless they have access to the physical cable, so you're "secure" in the physical way. In a way, encrypting is for wireless what building walls is for the cables. And giving pass-phrases would be adding a door with a key. So, what do you think?

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• Windows 7 blank dvi screen

  - by user99

  I've just upgraded to Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit. I had an issue during installation; after setup rebooted instead of going to the 'Completing installation' screen I just got a blank screen. I eventually(!) figured out that this meant 'un-plug your second monitor to proceed'. When I did this, installation completed in a snap and everything runs fine. However, whenever I plug my second monitor into my PC, it gets no signal, the the primary monitor removes all windows. icons, the taskbar and the cursor just shows the desktop wallpaper. I'm running a GTS8800 512mb, with the latest drivers (197 IIRC). The monitors are identical, and both plug into DVI sockets on the graphics card, the only difference is I connect one using a straight DVI cable and the other using a VGA cable and a VGA-DVI converter. It's the DVI cabled one that has the issues (if I plug it in by itself it gets no signal). Everything was working fine before I upgraded to Windows 7 (I used to run XPSP2). Anyone have any ideas?

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• How do i set up a fully featured small business network?

  - by JoshReedSchramm

  This has the possibility to be a very large question but I recently acquired a few rack mount servers and the hardware necessary to run them. Unfortunately I'm a programmer with very little understanding of how to set up a good working network so I'm hoping someone on here might be able to help. What I want to do is run a domain with a series of subdomains which would all be externally accessible. The setup would live inside my home and my internet connection is your run of the mill cable model (which means a dynamic IP) I want to be able to set up a couple site, specifically: www.mycompany.com (mycompany.com with no subdomain would redirect to this) build.mycompany.com (for my continuous integration server) ruby.mycompany.com (for ruby projects) win.mycompany.com (for windows project) etc. Additionally this is still my home network so our personal machines need to be able to get on via wifi with at least the same security we have now through an out of the box router from best buy. I'm thinking i need a DNS server, DHCP server and one of those would run either no-ip or dyndns to accommodate the dynamic ip. I don't necessarily need mail but it might be helpful to have some sort of mail server i could use for testing, it doesn't need to get out to the greater internet though. So how do i set up this kinda of network? tl;dr Need to know how to set up your standard office style network in my home off my normal consumer level cable modem connection.

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• Is it possible to provide a wired ethernet connection to external devices with an extra LAN card?

  - by Ben McCormack

  I'm trying to provide a wired ethernet connection (wireless is not an option for this device) to a device (Samsung blu-ray player) without running Cat5 cable all over the home. I have a PC sitting next to this device and the PC is connected to the network via a wireless USB adapter. Is it possible to provide a wired connection from the PC to the wired device using the (currently unused) ethernet port in the back of the computer? Here's how I envision the device getting connected to the internet via my network: Linksys WRT54G v8 Wireless Router | ``--> Windows 7 PC connected via wireless | ``--> Blu-ray player connected via wired connection to the ethernet port on the PC. If so, how is this done? Will I need a crossover cable? What settings will I need to change in Windows 7 so that the device can connect? NOTE: I'm trying to avoid having to buy a wireless bridge and/or hacking a router with an open-source firmware to get this to work. See my previous question for more details.

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• Media Center setup won't complete for watching TV

  - by Robert

  I have a problem watching TV in Media Center. The TV constantly pauses 1/2 second then plays 1 second, pauses 1/2 second, plays 1 second - it is constant and does not vary. This problem occurs on all channels, live or recorded. The bottom 5th of the screen is solid green. I know the problem is Media Center because I can use Pinnacle's TVCenterPro to watch TV and there is no skipping/pausing (and not green on bottom). I was using cable, and switched to DirecTV (satellite). Trying to do "Set up TV signal" in Media Center seems to be what broke it. I get an error "IR Hardware not detected." I can use the remote to "try again" - so the IR hardware works fine (Media Center's remote/sensor). I tried plugging the IR Blaster into both ports, and I tried a different USB port for the IR receiver. I can't complete the setup. Media Center was playing TV okay (with the new DirecTV) before I tried to run setup. (I ran setup to try to do recording with Media Center.) Hardware/Software: Pinnacle PCTV 800i HD PCI card (coax cable from DirecTV tuner), ATI Radeon HD 3200 Graphics, Windows XP SP3 Media Center Edition, AMD Athlon Dual Core 2.5 GHz, 1.75 GB RAM.

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• Why can't I route to some sites from my MacBook Pro that I can see from my iPad? [closed]

  - by Robert Atkins

  I am on M1 Cable (residential) broadband in Singapore. I have an intermittent problem routing to some sites from my MacBook Pro—often Google-related sites (arduino.googlecode.com and ajax.googleapis.com right now, but sometimes even gmail.com.) This prevents StackExchange chat from working, for instance. Funny thing is, my iPad can route to those sites and they're on the same wireless network! I can ping the sites, but not traceroute to them which I find odd. That I can get through via the iPad implies the problem is with the MBP. In any case, calling M1 support is... not helpful. I get the same behaviour when I bypass the Airport Express entirely and plug the MBP directly into the cable modem. Can anybody explain a) how this is even possible and b) how to fix it? mella:~ ratkins$ ping ajax.googleapis.com PING googleapis.l.google.com (209.85.132.95): 56 data bytes 64 bytes from 209.85.132.95: icmp_seq=0 ttl=50 time=11.488 ms 64 bytes from 209.85.132.95: icmp_seq=1 ttl=53 time=13.012 ms 64 bytes from 209.85.132.95: icmp_seq=2 ttl=53 time=13.048 ms ^C --- googleapis.l.google.com ping statistics --- 3 packets transmitted, 3 packets received, 0.0% packet loss round-trip min/avg/max/stddev = 11.488/12.516/13.048/0.727 ms mella:~ ratkins$ traceroute ajax.googleapis.com traceroute to googleapis.l.google.com (209.85.132.95), 64 hops max, 52 byte packets traceroute: sendto: No route to host 1 traceroute: wrote googleapis.l.google.com 52 chars, ret=-1 *traceroute: sendto: No route to host traceroute: wrote googleapis.l.google.com 52 chars, ret=-1 ^C mella:~ ratkins$ The traceroute from the iPad goes (and I'm copying this by hand): 10.0.1.1 119.56.34.1 172.20.8.222 172.31.253.11 202.65.245.1 202.65.245.142 209.85.243.156 72.14.233.145 209.85.132.82 From the MBP, I can't traceroute to any of the IPs from 172.20.8.222 onwards. [For extra flavour, not being able to access the above appears to stop me logging in to Server Fault via OpenID and formatting the above traceroutes correctly. Anyone with sufficient rep here to do so, I'd be much obliged.]

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• Is Gmail Being Blocked by my ISP (wait till you read this)?

  - by James

  This is the strangest thing I have ever encountered. I have a desktop on which I cannot access Gmail and also youtube sign in (I believe since youtube is owned by google they both use the same sign in system). So okay, maybe my ISP is blocking these for some reason or maybe my firewall is, or maybe there is something wrong with my connectivity, right? NO. On other computers that uses the same connection via a wireless router I can access both gmail and youtube sign in just fine. On this computer which doesn't have a wireless card and so I have to connect via Ethernet cable (connected to a USB converter since the Ethernet port doesn't work anymore) I can access all sites and services including things like aol and hotmail. But only when it comes to gmail, do I get complete and utter throttling. I even turned off my AV ad Firewall momentarily and no luck. The gmail ages starts to load and by mid point it just stays there loading and loading and loading... never ends. I tried everything, I reset the modem and router multiple times. I reinstalled my operating system from a vista to a windows 7 hoping a complete reinstall would solve the issue, but no luck. So can anyone for the life of them figure out why this could be? And yes, I am going to call my ISP but not to solve this issue, but to cancel them. I want to upgrade to cabel from DSL anyway. I didn't mention my ISP because I'm not sure if that is within the rules (if it's okay some one let me know and I will). P.S. All this happened one day, before gmail was perfectly accessible in this computer. I can't remember anything special that happened on that day prior to this. The only thing I can think of is, my ISP or Google itself is blocking this computer based on it's mac address, but I don't know if that's even done. Additional info: PC: Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit Connection Type: DSL Connecting Medium: Ethernet cable via USB converter

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• Monitor goes black for a few seconds

  - by privatehuff

  I have a Hanns G 28" monitor, Model # HG281D It has its issues (viewing angle sucks) but has been functional and solid, great for desktop stuff. Worked without any sign of any problems for 6-12 months. However, now the monitor "goes black" for about 2-3 seconds, almost like when you click "detect display" It does not turn off (power light does not go amber) The computer is completely unaffected and the video mode never changes when the picture returns. The computer is fully responsive and will keep playing music or taking my keypresses during the time I can't see anything. (it just happened and I kept typing, etc) It happens on multiple computers across several operating systems. (I have an 8-port iogear KVM switch that has several computers connected) But, it seems to happen only on certain computers. I have a hackintosh that does it, a windows 7 PC that does not, a lenovo laptop that does not, and my old ubuntu 8.10 box did not do it, but my new mint 8 box does do it. I've check the connections and tried changing out the power cable and the vga cable. Sometimes it won't happen for hours (or days) and sometimes it happens several times per hour. It was happening many months ago, did not happen for months, and has now started happening again. Does this make any sense? What could it be?

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• What is the best way to connect a 3 switches with a router?

  - by Carlos Morales

  Hello everyone, I'm trying to rebuild the network from my work and I was thinking what is the best way to connect three switches and a router. The router has 4 ports so I thought to connect 2 switches to the router (each switch connected with 2 cables to the router) and then connect the third switch to one of the others with two cables. So is like this, two cables from switch one to the router, two cables from switch two to the router and two cables from switch 3 to switch 1 or 2. So my questions are: Is it better to connect the router to each switch with a cable or the more cables you have the better? If I connect the switch 3 to switch 1 or 2 is it better to connect it with a cable or you get better performance with more cables. If I'm wrong and there is a better or more efficient way to connect them please let me know. The router is a Netgear RP114 (I'll upgrade it to a Sonicwall NSA 240), switch 1 is a Netgear GS748T, switch 2 is a Cisco Catalyst 2924-XL and switch 3 is a D-link DGS-1024D Thank you very much

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• What is the best way to connect 3 switches with a router?

  - by Carlos Morales

  Hello everyone, I'm trying to rebuild the network from my work and I was thinking what is the best way to connect three switches and a router. The router has 4 ports so I thought to connect 2 switches to the router (each switch connected with 2 cables to the router) and then connect the third switch to one of the others with two cables. So is like this, two cables from switch one to the router, two cables from switch two to the router and two cables from switch 3 to switch 1 or 2. So my questions are: Is it better to connect the router to each switch with a cable or the more cables you have the better? If I connect the switch 3 to switch 1 or 2 is it better to connect it with a cable or you get better performance with more cables. If I'm wrong and there is a better or more efficient way to connect them please let me know. The router is a Netgear RP114 (I'll upgrade it to a Sonicwall NSA 240), switch 1 is a Netgear GS748T, switch 2 is a Cisco Catalyst 2924-XL and switch 3 is a D-link DGS-1024D Thank you very much

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• Windows Firewall Software to Filter Transit Traffic

  - by soonts

  I need to test my networking code for Nintendo Wii under the conditions when some specific Internet server is not available. Wii is connected to my PC with crossover ethernet cable. PC has 2 NICs. PC is connected to hardware router with ethernet cable. The hardware router serves as NAT and has an internet connected to its uplink. I set the Wii to be in the same lan as PC by using Windows XP Network bridge. I can observe the WII network traffic using e.g. Wireshark sniffer. Is there a software firewall that can selectively filter out transit traffic? (e.g. block outgoing TCP connections to 123.45.67.89 to port 443) I tried Outpost Pro 2009 and Comodo. Outpost firewall blocks all transit traffic with it's implicit "block transit packet" rule. If the transit traffic is explicitly allowed by creating the system-wide low level rule, then it's allowed completely and no other filter can selectively block it. Comodo firewall only process rules when the packet has localhost's IP as either source or destination, allowing the rest of the traffic. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! P.S. Platform is Windows XP 32 bit, no other OSes is allowed, Windows ICS (Internet Connection Sharing) doesnt work since the Wii is unable to connect, becides I don't like the idea of adding one more level of NAT.

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• Few questions about a good projector on my PC and tv?

  - by jasondavis

  I have always wanted a projector for my tv, satelite, cable, and even PC in a spare bedroom. Well it's more of a home office that I spend most my time in and the catch here is it is a small room. Room is only the standard 8foot tall. Room is about 13 feet wide on the wall where I would like to mount the project and the wall where the screen would be for it. So only about 13 feet away from projector to screen. I would like to know... 1) From experience or knowledge what would be a good projector I could hook up to my satelite box and also my PC? Cheaper is better in this case but I would still like the best image for my buck and something reliable. There is no sunlight in the room either to worry about. 2) From that distance of about 12-13 feet away, how big of a clear picture could I expect? 3) What kind of cables would I need to purchase and run through my attic to my cable/satelite receiver box as well as my PC? 4) These cables in question 3 would most likely need to be a good 15-20feet in length to reach, would I need anything special for that to work at those distances?

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• CentOS Latency High Troubleshooting

  - by Sarah Weinberger

  I have two CentOS servers connected via a 10 Gb fiber optic cable with a network emulator connected between them. All three units sit on a desk in the lab. There is also a regular 1 Gbit Ethernet cable connected to each of the machines, which provide internet connectivity. When I set the latency to something roughly below 30 ms, all is fine. When the latency gets to 70ms and above, and definitely 130ms, the network layer suspends. For instance, if I set the latency (delay) to 70ms, then launching TeamViewer (or any other application that uses network connectivity) never happens or does not work. There is no timeout message, simply no response. I have to lower to latency back down to zero to see any response and have the box start working. What is the problem and how would I go about fixing it? It seems to me some sort of setting in Linux causes one of the CentOS networking drivers to sit in an infinite loop or something. eth0 is the connection to the internet, all settings are default eth2 is the 10 Gbit fiber optic connection to the other computer with the MTU set to 9600 with all other parameters at default values.

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• Router not connecting to the internet

  - by Peter

  I had a weird problem this morning with my router - it's an Alice Gate VoIP 2 Plus WI-FI - not connecting to the internet after more or less 1 hour online (I'm always connected with the ethernet cable). The led status lights for Power, WI-FI, ADSL, Internet, Service should be on in order to be connected and navigate online. The problem was that the leds ADSL, Internet were off and I did not know why because it never happened before. I looked at the stats in the settings and the numbers for Bytes/Packages for both Sent/Received were there and increasing but I couldn't connect to the internet. I called tech support, they checked and told me to keep the router on for 48 hours because they were checking it. I've reset it twice before and after I called tech support and it still did not work so after about 2 hours of waiting I tried connecting using WI-FI and the leds 'magically' turned on, first the ADSL and Internet(Internet led always turns on last). At this point I'm curious what could of caused this and I'm doubting that the tech-support guys did something. What could of been the problem with the ethernet cable not connecting in the first place? It always works. What do the tech support guys normally do when they tell me to keep the router on so they can 'check it'? PS: I'm using ubuntu 32 bit

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• Computer sending data while turned off

  - by Nicklas Ansman

  I have a some what strange problem (which could have and easy and obvious solution for all I know). My problem is that when I've booted ubuntu (now 10.4 but same problem with 9.10) and turns it off it starts sending a HUGE amount of data via the ethernet cable, so much in fact that my router can't handle it and stops responding. As far as I can tell the computer is completely turned off with no fans spinning. I can add that if I boot windows I do not have this problem, just when exiting ubuntu. There are two "fixes" for my problem: Pull the ethernet cable until the next boot Turn off power to the PSU and wait for the capacitors to unload Is there anyone who knows what could be going on? I'd be happy to post some logs or conf-files. Currently I'm using the ethernet port on my motherboard which is a Asus P6T Deluxe V2 with an updated version of the BIOS (maybe not the latest but since it only happens when I've been in ubuntu I don't wanna mess with the BIOS too much). Regards Nicklas ---------Update 1---------- The router is a D-Link DIR 655 with the latest firmware. ---------Update 2---------- I've now reinstalled ubuntu (with 10.4) and I still experience the same problem.

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• Resolving loss of internet bandwidth in home network

  - by Caspar

  Recently, I've decided to connect my laptop at home to my modem/router through Ethernet cables built into my apartment. As these built-in Ethernet cables are usable via plugs built into the walls (called powerline adapters), I use some additional cabling (STP CAT6 cables) from my laptop/router to the plugs. In addition, I don't know any technical details about these built-in cables (as they're not visible), only the maximal bandwidth (1 GBit = Cat6?) that they're supporting. The built-in cables are Cat. 5e Ethernet cables. The problem is now that when I set up the connection, I cannot use the full bandwidth that my internet connection is actually offering (100 Mbit/s), only about 85 Mbit/s between 85 - 88 Mbit/s, despite the fact that all cables involved should support the maximal bandwidth. I know from other tests with one of the Ethernet cables in use that I can use almost 99 Mbit/s when I connect my laptop directly to the router/modem using only this one cable. In addition, it is very unlikely that the length of the resulting cable connection from my laptop to my router involving the built-in cables exceeds 100 m. So, what possible reasons for this loss of bandwidth exist? And how I can fix this issue? I hope this might help resolve the issue: The built-in cables appear to be Cat. 5e Ethernet cables. So, is there any problem when I connect Cat6 Ethernet cables directly to Cat5e Ethernet cables via the plugs?

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• Attaching 3.5" desktop drive to MacBook SATA

  - by Kyle Cronin

  I have a mid-2007 MacBook that, according to the Apple Store, has suffered some liquid damage and requires a new logic board to operate correctly, a ~$750 repair I've been told (would normally be around ~$300 were it not for the "liquid damage"). The unit itself works fine - the only problem I've been having is that the system does not recognize the battery and will not charge it. Curiously, the system can still be powered by the battery and even recognizes when the power cord is detached by diming the backlight, but I digress. Now that this laptop will likely become a desktop, I'm wondering if it might be possible to attach a desktop drive. I recently purchased a 2TB SATA drive and I'm wondering if it's possible to somehow attach it where the current internal drive connects. Obviously the drive itself will not fit inside the device, but as the unit will spend the rest of its days on my desk, that's not really much of an issue. My main questions are: Is this possible? If so, how would I connect the drive? Would a SATA extender cable work? Is the SATA port on my MacBook capable of powering a desktop drive? Or should I just get a SATA male-to-female cable and see if I can power the drive through other means (a cheap power supply, for example) The disk I'm referring to is the Hitachi Deskstar HD32000. Though I couldn't find that exact model on Hitachi's support site, these are the power requirements for a similar drive, the 7K2000 (2TB, 7200RPM, SATA II): Power Requirement +5 VDC (+/-5%) +12 VDC (+/-10%) Startup current (A, max.) 1.2 (+5V), 2.0 (+12V) Idle (W) 7.5 From what I've read, 2.5" drives require 5V, meaning that my MacBook obviously is capable of producing it. The specs seem to suggest that this drive seems capable of accepting it instead of the typical 12V - is this an accurate interpretation of the power requirements? Or does it need both 12V and 5V?

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