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  • Backing up the master boot

    - by petersohn
    I want to back up the master boot on my hard drive, in case something screws it up. What software do you recommend for this? My first idea is to boot from a Linux CD and dd the first 512 bytes of /dev/sda, and dd it back to recover. Will this solution work, and is it safe?

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  • Effecient organization of spare cables and hardware

    - by Jake Wharton
    As many of you also likely do, I have a growing collection of cables, hardware, and spare parts (screws, connectors, etc.). I'm looking to find a good system of organization so that everything isn't a tangled mess, mismatched, and potentially able to be damaged. Since the the three things listed above are all have varying sizes and degrees of delicacy this poises an interesting problem. Presently I have those cheap plastic storage bins you find at Wal-mart for everything. Cables that were once wrapped neatly have become tangled due to numerous "I know I have a cable for this" moments. Hardware is mixed in other bins with odds and ends with no protection from each other. NICs, CPUs, and HDDs are all interacting and likely causing damage. Finally there are stray parts sprinkled amongst these two both in plastic bags and loose. I'm looking to unify this storage into a controlled chaos. Here are my thoughts: Odds and ends are the easiest. Screws, connectors, and small electronic parts lend themselves perfectly to tackle boxes and jewelry boxes. Since these are usually dynamically compartmentalized I can adjust for the contents and label them on the outside or inside of the lid. Cables are easily wrangled with short velcro strips but that doesn't stop them from being all mixed in together. Hardware is the worst offender. Size, shape, and degree of delicacy changes with nearly every piece. I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of organization for a somewhat efficient manner. What are all your thoughts? What is the best type of tackle or jewelry box to use? Most of them are cheap and flimsy. Is there a better alternative? How can I organize cables to know exactly (within reason) where one is? What about associating cables with hardware (Wall adapter to router, etc.)? What kind of storage unit lends itself to all shapes of hardware? Do I need to separate by size or degree of delicacy for better organization?

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  • Cracking WEP with Aircrack and Kismet

    - by Jenny
    Just a minor question, but I notice with aircrack when it lists networks, it does not list the encryption type of each network. Which seems fair enough, as you can use Kismet, however on my machine when I end kismet and the server, the monitor interface is not removed and I cannot remove it manually, which screws with aircrack. SO, is kismet needed to view encryption types of networks, and if so how do you use it peacefully in unison with aircrack?

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  • How to fix a bad case rattle

    - by C. Ross
    I have a full sized ATX case with several fans, including one on the door/removable side. This fan makes the "door" rattle or vibrate loudly when the fan runs at full speed, such as at startup. I can stop the rattle temporarily by placing my hand on the "door", or pushing an object next to it. Do you have any suggestions for a permanent solution? Note: The "door" in question is a slide out panel with two twist screws at the back to hold it in.

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  • Is there a peripheral that lets my computer monitor the connectivity of pairs of wires?

    - by raldi
    I've got a bunch of physical switches and circuits that act like switches (they're either connected to ground or they're just an open wire). Is there some sort of thing I can plug into my computer (ideally, via USB) that has a bunch of screw terminals, and I can attach wires to the screws and have the computer keep track of which circuits are closed and which are open? Bonus points if the device also lets the computer open and close switches, too. I don't even know what to google for.

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  • HP Pavillion dv5 Notebook Repair Question?

    - by HeLp
    My screen only comes on when my screen is half way up and it sometime turns off or turns white I think I need to connect a loose wire from the screen but how do I open the laptop to reconnect the screens loose wires? I have an infinity screen with no screws on it please help

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  • DIY Panoramic Head Dirt Cheap Solution for Panoramic Photos [DIY]

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Professional panoramic tripod heads are quite expensive; this DIY solution is put together with scrap wood and a handful of cheap parts from the hardware store and gets the job done just as well. If you’re not looking to impress anyone and willing to sacrifice a little compactness, this simple build can save you a ton of cash. Over at Rasterweb Pete Prodoehl shares photos and video of his DIY panoramic head built out of nothing but scrap wood he had around the work shop plus a hinge, some angle brackets, and screws/nuts/bolts. All very cheap hardware store fare. Hit up the link below to see his build and sample photos. Panoramic Tripod Head [Rasterweb via Make] What is a Histogram, and How Can I Use it to Improve My Photos?How To Easily Access Your Home Network From Anywhere With DDNSHow To Recover After Your Email Password Is Compromised

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  • Isometric drawing "Not Tile Stuff" on isometric map?

    - by Icebone1000
    So I got my isometric renderer working, it can draw diamond or jagged maps...Then I want to move on...How do I draw characters/objects on it in a optimal way? What Im doing now, as one can imagine, is traversing my grid(map) and drawing the tiles in a order so alpha blending works correctly. So, anything I draw in this map must be drawed at the same time the map is being drawn, with sucks a lot, screws your very modular map drawer, because now everything on the game (but the HUD) must be included on the drawer.. I was thinking whats the best approach to do this, comparing the position of all objects(not tile stuff) on the grid against the current tile being draw seems stupid, would it be better to add an id ON the grid(map)? this also seems terrible, because objects can move freely, not per tile steps (it can occupies 2 tiles if its between them, etc.) Dont know if matters, but my grid is 3D, so its not a plane with objects poping out, its a bunch of pilled cubes.

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  • Best way to prevent UIPanGestureRecognizer from firing when moving sprites in cocos2d

    - by cjroebuck
    Im using UIPanGestureRecognizer in my cocos2d game to do drag and drop of sprites. I have a row of sprites and when I drag a sprite on top of another one, the sprite underneath it and any other sprites between should shift left or right out of the way to allow space to drop the currently selected sprite. This is working ok, however, if I am too quick at dragging the sprite around the screen, this triggers another round of the UIPanGestureRecognizer's callback method, and screws up the logic, as the sprites are in-between shifting. I need a way to freeze the callback from firing, whilst the other sprites are shifting, then once they have finished moving, re-enable the callback to fire. Whats the best way to do this?

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  • Convert Your Workspace to Standing Height for $22

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    If you’d love to try out a standing workstation but you don’t want to shell out $$$ to buy or build one, this simple $22 project will raise up your workspace surface on the cheap. All you need is a LACK side table, some shelf brackets, a shelf, and some screws. The side table goes on your desk, the monitors go on the side table, and the keyboard and mouse go on the shelf (mounted to the brackets that have been positioned at the perfect height for your forearms). Hit up the link below for more pictures, tips, and a downloadable build guide. IKEA Standing Desk for $22 [via Unpluggd] How to Banish Duplicate Photos with VisiPic How to Make Your Laptop Choose a Wired Connection Instead of Wireless HTG Explains: What Is Two-Factor Authentication and Should I Be Using It?

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  • How do I allow a standard user to update the kernel modules for VMware?

    - by GUI Junkie
    I've set up VMWare Player for my wife. Every once in a while (notably after a kernel update), the VMWare Player needs to be compiled into the kernel. My spouse does not have su- activated (if anybody screws up the OS, it's going to be me). I'd like to give her permission to do this, but only for that program. Is this possible? Can it be done safely (for the OS)? How can it be done? Edit: I tried to add the following to visudo guijunkette ALL=(ALL) NOPASSWD: /usr/bin/vmware-modconfig When running with her user, after typing her password, the following error occurred: So, in the end, no cigar. Edit: I've given up on VMWare Player and moved to VirtualBox. Made a clean install.

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  • Sprite rotation

    - by Kipras
    I'm using OpenGL and people suggest using glRotate for sprite rotation, but I find that strange. My problem with it is that it rotates the whole matrix, which sort of screws up all my collision detection and so on and so forth. Imagine I had a sprite at position (100, 100) and in position (100, 200) is an obstacle and the sprite's facing it. I rotate the sprite away from the obstacle and when move upwards my y axis, even though the projection shows like it's going away from the obstacle, the sprite will intersect it. So I don't see another way of a rotating a sprite and not screwing up all collision detection other than doing mathematical operations on the image itself. Am I right or am I missing something?

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  • How to repackage NVIDIA .run drivers into .deb with DKMS

    - by Delan Azabani
    At present, Ubuntu offers the 195.36.24 drivers as nvidia-current in their repository. This packaged driver is pretty cool as it uses DKMS so you don't have to keep reinstalling the driver after a new kernel version. The NVIDIA .run package drivers are at version 257 (beta) but they don't use DKMS so the graphics screws up every time a new kernel is installed and you don't reinstall the driver. How can I modify the .run to use DKMS and even better, package it as a deb package?

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  • Print newline in PHP in single quotes

    - by Matt
    Hey all, I try to use single quotes as much as possible and I've noticed that I can't use \n in single quotes. I know I can just enter a newline literally by pressing return, but that screws up the indentation of my code.. Is there some ASCII character or something that I can type that will produce newline when I'm using single quotes? Thanks! Matt Mueller

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  • Prevent image cropping when making sprites from gif

    - by OSaad
    Hey guys I've tried several tools (imagemagic, gif2png, Nconverter) to extract frames to make sprites from a .gif image that i have. I get the .pngs just fine, but they'r not the same size, some are 50x65 some 43x65 some 50x70, Which really screws any attempts at a descent animation. So is there a way to prevent this cropping or programmatically add extra transparent space to smaller ones and make them all the same size? Thanks.

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  • Linux C++: how to profile time wasted due to cache misses?

    - by anon
    I know that I can use gprof to benchmark my code. However, I have this problem -- I have a smart pointer that has an extra level of indirection (think of it as a proxy object). As a result, I have this extra layer that effects pretty much all functions, and screws with caching. Is there a way to measure the time my CPU wastes due to cache misses? Thanks!

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  • Easyslider not cooperating

    - by SiD
    First time I've used it. had it working but suddenly it's gone. It seems temperamental, sometimes works grand, a refresh then breaks it. It doesn't expand to the full height and screws up the positioning of the image and the corresponding copy. Any help much appreciated. See code here: http://www.bigfootwalk.com/route.html

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  • LInux C++: how do profile time wasted due to cache misses?

    - by anon
    I know that I can use gprof to benchmark my code. However, I have this problem -- I have a smart pointer that has an extra level of indirection (think of it as a proxy object). As a result, I have this extra layer that effects pretty much all functions, and screws with caching. Is there a way to measure the time my CPU wastes due to cache misses? Thanks!

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  • Robotic Arm &ndash; Hardware

    - by Szymon Kobalczyk
    This is first in series of articles about project I've been building  in my spare time since last Summer. Actually it all began when I was researching a topic of modeling human motion kinematics in order to create gesture recognition library for Kinect. This ties heavily into motion theory of robotic manipulators so I also glanced at some designs of robotic arms. Somehow I stumbled upon this cool looking open source robotic arm: It was featured on Thingiverse and published by user jjshortcut (Jan-Jaap). Since for some time I got hooked on toying with microcontrollers, robots and other electronics, I decided to give it a try and build it myself. In this post I will describe the hardware build of the arm and in later posts I will be writing about the software to control it. Another reason to build the arm myself was the cost factor. Even small commercial robotic arms are quite expensive – products from Lynxmotion and Dagu look great but both cost around USD $300 (actually there is one cheap arm available but it looks more like a toy to me). In comparison this design is quite cheap. It uses seven hobby grade servos and even the cheapest ones should work fine. The structure is build from a set of laser cut parts connected with few metal spacers (15mm and 47mm) and lots of M3 screws. Other than that you’d only need a microcontroller board to drive the servos. So in total it comes a lot cheaper to build it yourself than buy an of the shelf robotic arm. Oh, and if you don’t like this one there are few more robotic arm projects at Thingiverse (including one by oomlout). Laser cut parts Some time ago I’ve build another robot using laser cut parts so I knew the process already. You can grab the design files in both DXF and EPS format from Thingiverse, and there are also 3D models of each part in STL. Actually the design is split into a second project for the mini servo gripper (there is also a standard servo version available but it won’t fit this arm).  I wanted to make some small adjustments, layout, and add measurements to the parts before sending it for cutting. I’ve looked at some free 2D CAD programs, and finally did all this work using QCad 3 Beta with worked great for me (I also tried LibreCAD but it didn’t work that well). All parts are cut from 4 mm thick material. Because I was worried that acrylic is too fragile and might break, I also ordered another set cut from plywood. In the end I build it from plywood because it was easier to glue (I was told acrylic requires a special glue). Btw. I found a great laser cutter service in Kraków and highly recommend it (www.ebbox.com.pl). It cost me only USD $26 for both sets ($16 acrylic + $10 plywood). Metal parts I bought all the M3 screws and nuts at local hardware store. Make sure to look for nylon lock (nyloc) nuts for the gripper because otherwise it unscrews and comes apart quickly. I couldn’t find local store with metal spacers and had to order them online (you’d need 11 x 47mm and 3 x 15mm). I think I paid less than USD $10 for all metal parts. Servos This arm uses five standards size servos to drive the arm itself, and two micro servos are used on the gripper. Author of the project used Modelcraft RS-2 Servo and Modelcraft ES-05 HT Servo. I had two Futaba S3001 servos laying around, and ordered additional TowerPro SG-5010 standard size servos and TowerPro SG90 micro servos. However it turned out that the SG90 won’t fit in the gripper so I had to replace it with a slightly smaller E-Sky EK2-0508 micro servo. Later it also turned out that Futaba servos make some strange noise while working so I swapped one with TowerPro SG-5010 which has higher torque (8kg / cm). I’ve also bought three servo extension cables. All servos cost me USD $45. Assembly The build process is not difficult but you need to think carefully about order of assembling it. You can do the base and upper arm first. Because two servos in the base are close together you need to put first with one piece of lower arm already connected before you put the second servo. Then you connect the upper arm and finally put the second piece of lower arm to hold it together. Gripper and base require some gluing so think it through too. Make sure to look closely at all the photos on Thingiverse (also other people copies) and read additional posts on jjshortcust’s blog: My mini servo grippers and completed robotic arm  Multiply the robotic arm and electronics Here is also Rob’s copy cut from aluminum My assembled arm looks like this – I think it turned out really nice: Servo controller board The last piece of hardware I needed was an electronic board that would take command from PC and drive all seven servos. I could probably use Arduino for this task, and in fact there are several Arduino servo shields available (for example from Adafruit or Renbotics).  However one problem is that most support only up to six servos, and second that their accuracy is limited by Arduino’s timer frequency. So instead I looked for dedicated servo controller and found a series of Maestro boards from Pololu. I picked the Pololu Mini Maestro 12-Channel USB Servo Controller. It has many nice features including native USB connection, high resolution pulses (0.25µs) with no jitter, built-in speed and acceleration control, and even scripting capability. Another cool feature is that besides servo control, each channel can be configured as either general input or output. So far I’m using seven channels so I still have five available to connect some sensors (for example distance sensor mounted on gripper might be useful). And last but important factor was that they have SDK in .NET – what more I could wish for! The board itself is very small – half of the size of Tic-Tac box. I picked one for about USD $35 in this store. Perhaps another good alternative would be the Phidgets Advanced Servo 8-Motor – but it is significantly more expensive at USD $87.30. The Maestro Controller Driver and Software package includes Maestro Control Center program with lets you immediately configure the board. For each servo I first figured out their move range and set the min/max limits. I played with setting the speed an acceleration values as well. Big issue for me was that there are two servos that control position of lower arm (shoulder joint), and both have to be moved at the same time. This is where the scripting feature of Pololu board turned out very helpful. I wrote a script that synchronizes position of second servo with first one – so now I only need to move one servo and other will follow automatically. This turned out tricky because I couldn’t find simple offset mapping of the move range for each servo – I had to divide it into several sub-ranges and map each individually. The scripting language is bit assembler-like but gets the job done. And there is even a runtime debugging and stack view available. Altogether I’m very happy with the Pololu Mini Maestro Servo Controller, and with this final piece I completed the build and was able to move my arm from the Meastro Control program.   The total cost of my robotic arm was: $10 laser cut parts $10 metal parts $45 servos $35 servo controller ----------------------- $100 total So here you have all the information about the hardware. In next post I’ll start talking about the software that I wrote in Microsoft Robotics Developer Studio 4. Stay tuned!

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