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  • I Know What I Did This Summer: Put Down Trex Decking

    - by thatjeffsmith
    If you’re wondering why I would bore everyone with my pictures and frequent status updates/tweets from the past week – it’s so I could document the process of refurbishing my deck, or what some would call a porch. When we go to take a vacation, buy a car, do anything – we also read personal blogs to get the real story. So, if you’re curious about what it takes to tackle this sort of project, read on. Skills/Equipment/Manpower We Possessed I took the old decking out by myself. I’m about 230 lbs, more than 6′ tall, and I’m pretty healthy. This took about 8 hours over two afternoons. Three of us put the deck back together. My wife has two engineering degrees. Her father also has two engineering degrees. Lots of brainpower available here. Also, her dad ran the public works department for a country for more than 20 years – so lots and lots of practical experience on hand. We had a compound mitre saw, a skilsaw, 2-3 crowbars, a framing hammer, 3 cordless drills, a corded drill, lots of sawhorses, a power sander, an angle grinder, a 10×10 Coleman canopy tent, a Ford F-150 pickup truck, outdoor speakers and lots of iTunes playlists, plenty of water and cold beer. Why We Did This Our deck was relatively young – it was built in 2005. However, the pressure treated boards must not have been adequately maintained before we bought the house. I had powerwashed the deck every other year and had it stained a few times. The boards just rotted. We’re going to be in the house for a long time, and we wanted something that would look nice and require little maintenance. More bad deck boards The deck boards were in bad shape Things We Learned The two most important things: The hidden fasteners have to be put in JUST right. Wedge them into the grooved board, then bend down the bit that is screwed down. We didn’t do this on the first board and couldn’t get the second board to fit nearly close enough. Watching the official TREX YouTube video helped immensely, and we should have watched that first. When pre-drilling holes for the boards that need screwed down – DO NOT pre-drill through the underlying framing wood. ONLY pre-drill through the TREX itself. The screw won’t seat in the board properly. Instead of sitting down flush with the board, it will stop at the top of the board and just spin. I had to call the the place that sold me the screws to find this out. So about a third of our screws look like crap. If it doesn’t look or feel right – stop everything and pick up your computer or your phone. It’s not right, and it will be much easier to stop and find out why. We didn’t do this, and now I’m going to see every screw that’s not flush with the boards and get upset. Oh well. The Process How much time did it take? Well I spent about 8 hours taking the deck apart. And then the 3 of use spent 8 hours the first day, 10 hours the second day, 8 hours the third, and another 6 hours on the fourth day. That’s like 104 man-hours. We supposedly saved four or five thousand dollars in labor, but don’t do the math here or you might get a bit upset. The main thing is that we got what we wanted, and there won’t be any surprises later. Now for some pictures… This 6”+ pry bar made the destruction of the old deck much easier Most of the joists, once exposed, were OK. This joist wasn’t sitting on ANYTHING before. We think a lazy gas person cut the board to sneak a gas line in. Awesome… These monster lag bolts had to be accounted for when putting in the additional framing The border pattern Sheri wanted to put in required a lot more framing. These were the first boards to go down – we screwed them in as there was no way to attach clips I sat, kicked in the boards, and then drilled these clips in – but my wife was able to go MUCH faster by using her hands to lock the boards in and drill on her knees. I liked locking the board in with my feet when they needed to be ‘encouraged’ to go straight. The first board took FOREVER to go in, but then when we got rolling, we were able to put in a 20′ board in less than 10 minutes. This was end of construction day #2 – we got much further than we thought we would. Ah, the dreaded last 10% – what to do here? Remember those ‘floating’ stringers? Yeah, we fixed that up a bit, too. My wife used a website (and her brain) to calculate exactly how to cut the stringers to give us the rise/run we needed with the proper clearance and all that jazz. The stairs with stringers and toe kicks – this was worth the effort It started raining on us as I screwed down the steps – this we managed to get our shade tent up on the deck to protect us from the rain too The stairs, finished Finished, mostly Good corner shot The top of the stairs Stairs, looking down Celebratory beer In Summary There are a few things we’re not happy with. I think we can fix them up – but later. I have a few things left to finish, rewire the lighting, get the gas grille put back in, and rehang some screen doors. I was expecting this to be a lot worse than it was. If I didn’t have the help, I would have never done it myself. But I’m glad that I did have that help and did do that project. It’s not often you get to spend that kind of qualify time with family and building cool stuff.

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  • SpinRite and USB blues - does a solution exist?

    - by Peter Mortensen
    I use SpinRite to recover hard disks and their content, and to a lesser degree for preventive maintenance. However, if a USB drive (USB thumb drive and/or external hard disk with a USB interface) is connected when SpinRite scans for devices, then SpinRite never finishes/hangs. The work-around is of course to disconnect the drive, but there is value in being able to use SpinRite on USB drives. Some external drives have no screws and it is difficult to take out the hard disk without damaging the casing. And for those that have it would save the disassembling time. Is there a way to fix this problem (e.g. BIOS changes or a modified SpinRite boot CD) without resorting to floppy disks?

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  • Best way to fix security problems caused by windows updates?

    - by Chris Lively
    I have a laptop running Windows 7 32-bit. Last nights security updates caused my logitech mouse to stop working (specifically, it caused several USB ports to stop altogether). After reviewing the system event log I found that the IPBusEnum component was failing due to an activation security error. A little more research and I found that this was caused by the TrustedInstaller replacing the security permissions on those keys and generally mucking them up. To fix this I had to open regedit, take ownership of ALL the keys related to IPBusEnum and force it to use the inherited permissions from the tree. Is there a better way to fix this when MS screws up the updates? I would hate to have to walk around to a number of machines and manually fix the registry key security settings.

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  • IIS displaying page differently when localhost is used in URL vs. hostname

    - by maik
    I'm having (yet another) strange problem with IIS. When viewing an ASPX page I've designed on my local machine by browsing to http://localhost/page.aspx the page looks as expected (and looks the same in IE, Firefox and Chrome. If I change localhost to my_hostname the page is rendered with a disabled vertical scroll bar. The behavior was first noticed when I published my site to our live server and saw the same discrepancy. After beating my head against the wall I tried what I described above and was able to duplicate my "problem". So with that, I turn to you guys. This wouldn't really be an issue (save for the cross-browser inconsistency) except that this screws up an "absolute"ly positioned <div> moving it partway off the screen instead of being centered like it should be (and is when viewed any other way except in IE when the address is anything but localhost).

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  • Building computer: Casing for peripheral sockets is a pain!

    - by burnt1ce
    I have a casing the covers the spacing between the peripheral socket which is standard to have when you buy a motherboard. My problem with these covers is that they have spokes that pushes the motherboard away so the sockets don't even come out of the covers. This also misaligns the screws on my atx motherboard with the holes in my computer case. I usually break these spokes so that i can align my motherboard correctly. Why the heck do motherboard manufacture put spokes on these covers? am i using them wrong? UPDATE Here's an image that i found that shows the plastic casing. http://z.about.com/d/pcsupport/1/5/m/-/-/-/tour%5Fexternal.jpg You can even see the indentation that makes the spokes that pushes the motherboard inwards.

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  • bad printer isolation on print server or better way?

    - by Joseph
    I have noticed that when a printer or driver screws up on a Windows server it usually locks up or kills the print spooler and everyone can't print until it is fixed. Usually we have to put the troublesome printer on another server so when it fails, it doesn't take the whole group with it. That is assuming we ever figure out which printer is the problem. Is there a way to have it so that one bad apple doesn't ruin the bunch? Even if it is another form of printer serving, that would work as long as it's not hard for the user to find a printer and install drivers.

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  • Generic socket 940 CPU fan interchangeable with HP part number 411454-001

    - by ConcernedOfTunbridgeWells
    Hi, I'm trying to find a generic CPU fan that will fit the air duct in an XW9300. Note that there are two CPU fan mounting schemes used on this machine. One with two grommets in the motherboard that the CPU fan screws into and one with a plastic collar and base plate. The form factor I'm looking for is the former (see picture below): Two HP part numbers for fans in this form factor are 411454-001 (shown below) and 416055-001. Note that the dimensions are important as the machine has an air duct that fits over the fan. Can anyone tell me the manufacturer and model of an equivalent generic part? Better yet, do you know somewhere (preferrably in the UK) that I can obtain such an item from?

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  • Cables for building a computer

    - by Faken
    I'm looking at building a computer and I have already done a whole bunch of research the topic and I think I know what I'm doing. My question is where do all the cables required for connecting everything come from? I'm pretty sure that the cables required come from their respective components (power connectors from the power supply, assorted cables from the motherboard, ect). However nowhere have I seen it explicitly stated that the cables come with the component I am buying. Just to confirm, if I buy all the components needed for a basic computer (CPU, motherboard, power supply, case, ram, video card, hard drive) from a website, say newegg, will I have all the screws, cables,connectors, and components to put together a working computer or will I need to buy some cables somewhere?

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  • Creating a bootable external drive in OSX

    - by Brian Postow
    I want to do some slightly dangerous testing, testing an install package I've written, so I've got an external drive, and I want to make it a bootable OSX disk, then I can boot up on the external, do my install, and if it screws things up, it doesn't actually affect the usability of my machine. The problem is that when I stick the disk that came with my computer (It's actually another computer in the office, but they're both minis) in and try to run the installer, it says "You cannot install OSx 10.6 on this computer". Now, the computer is ALREADY running 10.6, so that's a kind of silly error message... It does this when I boot to the DVDRom as well. Am I doing something really really dumb? or what?

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  • Remove LCD Stand for Wall Mounting - FSM-270YG

    - by Benjamin Chambers
    Based on Jeff Atwood's post on Coding Horror, I ordered one of these monitors, and I've been absolutely loving it. However, I recently (i.e. today) took the next step in monitor-y goodness and fastened the sucker to an articulated wall mount. Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to remove the stand. The flat portion comes off with a single screw, but the leg it fastens to has no apparent method of removing it. Has anyone figured out a trick for removing these, so they don't just stick out below the screen? Should I remove the screws from the backside of the screen, and look for an internal connection to remove? Or just give up and live with it? (After all, it's a great display, it's floating in the air in front of me, and the stand leg is only a minor annoyance).

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  • Generic socket 940 CPU fan for HP XW9300 interchangeable with HP part number 411454-001

    - by ConcernedOfTunbridgeWells
    Hi, I'm trying to find a generic Socket 940 CPU fan that will fit the air duct in an XW9300. Note that two different CPU fan mounting schemes have been used on this machine. One has two grommets in the motherboard that the CPU fan screws into and the other has a plastic collar and base plate. The form factor I'm looking for is the former (see the picture below). Two HP part numbers for fans in this form factor are 411454-001 (shown below) and 416055-001. Note that the dimensions are important as the machine has an air duct that fits over the fan. Can anyone tell me the manufacturer and model of an equivalent generic part? Better yet, do you know somewhere (preferrably in the UK) from which such an item can be obtained?

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  • Looking for a laptop with a removable hard drive

    - by anno
    At the moment, I possess a Dell Inspiron 6400. Just removing two screws, I've made the drive removable (look here) and I can pull it off in one second. The new Inspiron and Studio laptops don't support this anymore (the drive is no more on the side but on the back of the laptop). So I’m looking for a new laptop having this kind of feature, or one that can be modded easily. I also need a : Screen = 15" (if possible resolution 1366 x 768 resolution) Core i5-520M Midrange GPU (like an ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5650) Decent battery life minimum fan noise Thanks.

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  • What is the name of this screw? (from HP ProLiant quick-deploy rail kits)

    - by kockiren
    I need the name of the screw for the HP quick deploy rail kit. The screw clicks into the square holes of the rack. It is a Gen4 Rail kit but the screw is like the Gen8 Rail kit ones. I called HP support, but they couldn't really help me. Unfortunately the rack manual does not name this screw either. After googling a while, I found the compatible "Thumb Style Rack Screws". It would do the job but isn't exactly what I am looking for. So, what is the name of the pictured screw.

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  • What is the Name of this Type of Screw? (from for HP quick deploy rail kit in a square hole Rack)

    - by kockiren
    I need the name of the screw for the HP quick deploy rail kit. The screw clicks into the square holes of the rack. It is a Gen4 Rail kit but the screw is like the Gen8 Rail kit ones. I called HP support, but they couldn't really help me. Unfortunately the rack manual does not name this screw either. After googling a while, I found the compatible "Thumb Style Rack Screws". It would do the job but isn't exactly what I am looking for. So, what is the name of the pictured screw.

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  • How to set default permissions for automounted FAT drives in Ubuntu

    - by piman
    I've got many FAT32 drives that I'd like to mount in Ubuntu such that they have permission mode 700 for directories and 600 for all other files. By default, they have 755 for all files, which is not particularly useful since almost no non-directories should be executable, and it screws up version control repos hosted on the drives. "Back in the day" I would have had the drives listed in /etc/fstab with the umask/dmask I want and there was no such thing as a default. These days, drives automount under their volume names. Which is great, except now I have no idea how to set the default. I have tried changing the /system/storage/default_options/vfat/mount_options gconf key with no apparently effect. It was 077 initially but the mounted drive reflected a default of 022; changing it and re-inserting the drives resulted in the files still having permission bits of 755.

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  • How to use 3T SAS HDDs which aren't supported by Dell PERC 6i

    - by Sunry
    We bought several 3T SAS hard disks want to use with our Dell R710 server. But we found our R710 can't recognize the 3T hd, and then we dig out the raid card is PERC 6i which doesn't support it. Contacted with Dell that H700 and H800 support 3T hd, thought we can buy a H700 , but the SAS cable is not available in the market right now. And it seems very hard for us to change the raid card, also no suitable tools to tease the special screws. So I want to know if any other method to use these 3T hds instead of putting them in the warehouse? Can I low formatting it to 2TB, and plug it into Dell R710 to use? Or a SAS to USB adapter to use it as USB external disk? I just want to use them by Dell R710 even external.

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  • How to set default permissions for automounted FAT drives in Ubuntu 9.10?

    - by piman
    I've got many FAT32 drives that I'd like to mount in Ubuntu such that they have permission mode 700 for directories and 600 for all other files. By default, they have 755 for all files, which is not particularly useful since almost no non-directories should be executable, and it screws up version control repos hosted on the drives. "Back in the day" I would have had the drives listed in /etc/fstab with the umask/dmask I want and there was no such thing as a default. These days, drives automount under their volume names. Which is great, except now I have no idea how to set the default. I have tried changing the /system/storage/default_options/vfat/mount_options gconf key with no apparently effect. It was 077 initially but the mounted drive reflected a default of 022; changing it and re-inserting the drives resulted in the files still having permission bits of 755.

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  • Mitigating the 'firesheep' attack at the network layer?

    - by pobk
    What are the sysadmin's thoughts on mitigating the 'firesheep' attack for servers they manage? Firesheep is a new firefox extension that allows anyone who installs it to sidejack session it can discover. It does it's discovery by sniffing packets on the network and looking for session cookies from known sites. It is relatively easy to write plugins for the extension to listen for cookies from additional sites. From a systems/network perspective, we've discussed the possibility of encrypting the whole site, but this introduces additional load on servers and screws with site-indexing, assets and general performance. One option we've investigated is to use our firewalls to do SSL Offload, but as I mentioned earlier, this would require all of the site to be encrypted. What's the general thoughts on protecting against this attack vector? I've asked a similar question on StackOverflow, however, it would be interesting to see what the systems engineers thought.

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  • How can I change the default date format?

    - by RossFabricant
    When I paste a date into Excel 2010 in the format "2012-12-07 00:00:00.000" I'd like it to be displayed by default as "2012-12-07", but it is actually displayed as "00:00.0". I know I can work around this by prepending a ' or changing the cell format, but I'm interested in changing the default format. An approach that almost works is going to Control Panel-Region and Language-Long Time format and changing it to something like "h". This results in Excel displaying the dates I paste in as "2012-12-07 00:00:00.000", but screws up times displayed outside of Excel. The dates I'm pasting in are from SQL Server.

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  • Opening notebooks

    - by Plastkort
    I have a Compaq CQ40 which has a defective CPU fan, it seems unable to cool the notebook enough at this time, it is constantly running, and if you move the pc up/down to look under it, it makes some sort of chainsaw sound. I have tried to take out all the screws underneath, but I still have a problem with the plastic cover on the above; I am afraid I might break it since it seem to be connected with plastic clips underneath. I have fixed notebooks before, but this one seem new, how can I open the plastic cover above without breaking it? Any advice, tips and tricks would be so nice to have, not only for this notebook, but any future notebook also I might need to repair. It would be nice if anyone here knows a place with video tutorials on this subject as well.

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  • Removing DVI connectors stuck in video card ports

    - by thecyclegeek
    I need some help removing a couple of DVI connectors which are stuck in my video card ports. I don't know why they were screwed in so tightly in the first place but they won't move. I need to replace hardware in the machine, but doing so with the cables connected and the box in its current position is nearly impossible. I've tried pliers with grips to loosen the screws holding the cable, and I've tried a screwdriver, the latter ended up breaking off the plastic. Neither worked. I'm at a loss as to what to do and I'm very frustrated. Can I get some suggestions?

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  • Thunderbird "Folders" and "Inbox" font size

    - by bo gusman
    Graphical programs are such a pain sometimes. I am of an age where 1024x768 is the highest resolution that I can see. I had set my Windows 7 system fonts to be 125% - that helps a lot - but it screws up the tool bars on many other programs so I've reverted to 100% and it's now too hard to read in many cases. Most browsers will let you easily scale text font size as will the "message" window of Thunderbird (aside from setting the default font size for reading messages to 24 point, CTRL + + works wonders). However, I cannot seem to find a way to set the font size for the other panes - the Folders pane and the inbox pane. Is there some undocumented way to do that?

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  • How to stop windows from adding additional keyboards to languages

    - by MMavipc
    I have the English language setup with the normal en-us layout, and only this layout. I have the Spanish language setup with united states - international layout. When I switch to English it gives me the option to select the regular keyboard or the international version. Only the regular version is listed under EN in my language settings. How do I get it to remove the international keyboard from English? Sometimes it switches to international while I'm on English mode and screws up my typing, which is a pain in the ass.

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  • Too Much Swapping, even though RAM is 2/3 Empty

    - by indyaah
    I have a VPS with 9GB RAM, 300GB HDD, 3 GB Swap, 7 Cores. The OS is CentOS 5.7 Final. I have postgres9.0 running on my machine, with proper tuning done (at least by book/wiki of PostgreSQL). What happens is most of the times when some complex query run (by complex I mean select with maximum 3 Joins), eventhough 66% of my RAM is unused there is ~99% swapping is happening. Plus it screws up my disk IO which is most of the time reaching ~100% and slows down everything else. (I tend to believe something's wrong with my disk.) I dont understand the reason of this much of swapping happening. Is it because of context switching?? Most of the time my processors are idle, while the IO wait goes upto 30% during pick times. Would appreciate if some can shed some light on it. Thanks.

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  • Very slow write access to SSD disks on some Asus P8Z77 motherboards

    - by lenik
    I have Asus P8Z77-V LK motherboard, that ran Mint 13 (based on Ubuntu 12.04) just perfectly, but recently I've tried to install Mint 17 and noticed abysmal write performance. Write speed on SSD disk was about 1.5MB/sec, when it's supposed to be in 150-250MB/sec range. For write testing I've used dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sda bs=10M count=10 while booted up from LiveCD. I have also tested the read speed with hdparm -tT /dev/sda and got about 440MB/sec -- that's normal. I can tell, the read performance has not degraded at all and is not an issue here. Since I had a few different SSD disks and few motherboards, I've tested and tested and here are results: Asus P8H77 works fine with Mint13, has very slow write speed starting from Mint14. Asus P8Z77-V LK works with Mint13, has very slow write speed starting from Mint14. Asus P8Z77-V PRO works with Mint13, and works just fine with Mint14, 15, 16 and 17. The only difference between "PRO" version and others is that it has extra SATA controller onboard (in addition to the Z77 chipset SATA controller) providing extra 2 SATA ports. SSD disks work fine with "PRO" version when connected to the native SATA ports as well as to the ports provided by extra SATA controller, so this does not look like a hardware issue. As far as I can tell, there's something changed in the kernel while going from 3.2 to 3.5, that affects the detection of onboard SATA controller for Asus P8*77 motherboards, that screws up the write speed for SSD drives. Could anyone shed some light on how to fix this issue or, possibly, give a pointer to a more suitable place to ask this question?

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