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  • xset: unable to open display

    - by user287878
    for the longest time after about 5 minutes my screen would blank out. Now the screen will go blank after 5 minutes but then 2 seconds after that it will light up white and keep the laptop backlighting on. I didnt change any settings to my knowledge it just happened randomly after powering it on one day and has occurred since then. I wish to resort back to blanking the screen out completely since i leave this computer on all the time and its hard to sleep with a huge white light all the time. "xset dpms force off" just yeilds me ---- xset: unable to open display ""

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  • Having problem to login after upgrading from 11.10 to 12.04

    - by LinuxIsMyFriend
    I just update to 12.04 from 11.10 and I get to the login screen w/o problems. When I enter my password the screen turns black and returns to the login screen half a second later. There is a related question out there which was solved by creating more space on the disk but my disks (or rather partitions) are all below 30%. I can log in as guest. I can also login at the cmd prompt (going to tty with Alt+Ctrl+F1) with my normal user credentials. When logged in as guest I can also install programs using my normal account password. There is the normal authentication error when I mistype my password so I'm also sure the password works. Any suggestions?

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  • Why Ubuntu always force itself to be in 1440x900 resolution?

    - by rainlover
    My screen's resolution is 1024x768 and when I installed Ubuntu it was forcefully in 1440x900. I changed it in my account and again I've to change it in another standard account. I don't know any way to change it in login screen. Also when shutting down that black screen with some commands also appears in 1440x900. I don't know why Ubuntu force itself to be in 1440x900. I want 1024x768 in whole way. I don't know whether it is required but I have Intel chipset 128 MB.

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  • Jolicloud is a Nifty New OS for Your Netbook

    - by Matthew Guay
    Want to breathe new life into your netbook?  Here’s a quick look at Jolicloud, a unique new Linux based OS that lets you use your netbook in a whole new way. Netbooks have been an interesting category of computers.  When they were first released, most netbooks came with a stripped down Linux based operating system designed to let you easily access the internet first and foremost.  Consumers wanted more from their netbooks, so full OSes such as Windows XP and Ubuntu became the standard on netbooks.  Microsoft worked hard to get Windows 7 working great on netbooks, and today most netbooks run Windows 7 great.  But the Linux community hasn’t stood still either, and Jolicloud is proof of that.  Jolicloud is a unique OS designed to bring the best of both webapps and standard programs to your netbook.   Keep reading to see if this is the perfect netbook OS for you. Getting Started Installing Jolicloud on your netbook is easy thanks to a the Jolicloud Express installer for Windows.  Since many netbooks run Windows by default, this makes it easy to install Jolicloud.  Plus, your Windows install is left untouched, so you can still easily access all your Windows files and programs. Download and run the roughly 700Mb installer (link below) just as a normal installer in Windows. This will first extract the needed files. Click Get started to install Jolicloud on your netbook. Enter a username, password, and nickname for your computer.  Please note that the username must be all lowercase, and the nickname should not contain spaces or special characters.   Now you can review the default installation settings.  By default it will take up 39Gb and install on your C:\ drive in English.  If you wish to change this, click Change. We chose to install it on the D: drive on this netbook, as its harddrive was already partitioned into two parts.  Click Save when your settings are all correct, and then click Next in the previous window. Jolicloud will prepare for the installation.  This took about 5 minutes in our test.  Click Next when this is finished. Click Restart now to install and run Jolicloud. When your netbook reboots, it will initialize the Jolicloud setup. It will then automatically finish the installation.  Just sit back and wait; there’s nothing for you to do right now.  The installation took about 20 minutes in our test. Jolicloud will automatically reboot when the setup is finished. Once it’s rebooted, you’re ready to go!  Enter the username, then the password, that you chose earlier when you were installing Jolicloud from Windows. Welcome to your Jolicloud desktop! Hardware Support We installed Jolicloud on a Samsung N150 netbook with an Atom N450 processor, 1Gb Ram, 250Gb harddrive, and WiFi b/g/n with Bluetooth.  Amazingly, once Jolicloud was installed, everything was ready to use.  No drivers to install, no settings to hassle with, it was all installed and set up perfectly.  Power settings worked great, and closing the netbook put it to sleep just like in Windows. WiFi drivers have typically been difficult to find and install on Linux, but Jolicloud had our netbook’s wifi working immediately.  To get online, simply click the Wireless icon on the top right, and select the wireless network you want to connect to. Jolicloud will let you know when it is signed on. Wired Lan networking was also seamless; simply connect your cable and you’re ready to go.  The webcam and touchpad also worked perfectly directly.  The only thing missing was multitouch; this touchpad has two finger scroll, pinch zoom, and other nice multitouch features in Windows, but in Julicloud it only functioned as a standard touchpad.  It did have tap to click activated by default, as well as right-side scrolling, which is nice. Jolicloud also supported our video card without any extra work.  The native resolution was already selected, and the only problem we had with the screen was that there was no apparent way to change the brightness.  This is not a major problem, but would be nice to have.  The Samsung N150 has Intel GMA3150 integrated graphics, and Jolicloud promises 1080p HD video on it.  It did playback 720p H.264 video flawlessly without installing anything extra, but it stuttered on full 1080p HD (which is the exact same as this netbook’s video playback in Windows 7 – 720p works great, but it stutters on 1080p).  We would be excited to see full HD on this netbook, but 720p is definitely fine for most stuff.   Jolicloud supports a wide range of netbooks, and based on our experience we would expect it to work as good on any supported hardware.  Check out the list of supported netbooks to see if your netbook is supported; if not, it still may work but you may have to install special drivers. Jolicloud’s performance was very similar to Windows 7 on our netbook.  It boots in about 30 seconds, and apps load fairly quickly.  In general, we couldn’t tell much difference in performance between Jolicloud and Windows 7, though this isn’t a problem since Windows 7 runs great on the current generation of netbooks. Using Jolicloud Ready to start putting Jolicloud to use?  Your fresh Jolicloud install you can run several built-in apps, such as Firefox, a calculator, and the chat client Pidgin.  It also has a media player and file viewer installed, so you can play MP3s or MPG videos, or read PDF ebooks without installing anything extra.  It also has Flash player installed so you can watch videos online easily. You can also directly access all of your files from the right side of your home screen.  You can even access your Windows files; in our test, the 116.9 GB Media was C: from Windows.  Select it to browse and open any file you had saved in Windows. You may need to enter your password to access it. Once you’re authenticated it, you’ll see all of your Windows files and folders.  Your User files (Documents, Music, Videos, etc.) will be in the Users folder. And, you can easily add files from removable media such as USB flash drives and memory cards.  Jolicloud recognized a flash drive we tested with no trouble at all. Add new apps But, the best part about Jolicloud is that it makes it very easy to install new apps.  Click the Get Started button on your homescreen. You’ll first need to create an account.  You can then use this same account on another netbook if you wish, and your settings will automatically be synced between the two. You can either signup using your Facebook account, …or you can sign up the traditional way with your email address, name, and password.  If you sign up this way, you will need to confirm your email address before your account will be finished. Now, choose your netbook model from the list, and enter a name for your computer. And that’s it!  You’ll now see the Jolicloud dashboard, which will show you updates and notifications from friends who also use Jolicloud. Click the App directory to find new apps for your netbook.  Here you will find a variety of webapps, such as Gmail, along with native applications, such as Skype, that you can install on your netbook.  Simply click the Install button on the right to add the app to your netbook. You will be prompted to enter your system password, and then the app will install without any further input.   Once an app is installed, a check mark will appear beside its name.  You can remove it by clicking the Remove button, and it will uninstall seamlessly. Webapps, such as Gmail, actually run in in a Chrome-powered window that lets the webapp run full screen.  This gives the webapps a native feel, but actually they’re just running the same as they would in a standard web browser.   The Jolicloud Interface Most apps run maximized, and there is no way to run them smaller.  This in general works good, since with small screens most apps need to run full-screen anyhow. Smaller apps, such as a calculator or the Pidgin chat client, run in a window just like they do on other operating systems. You can switch to another app that’s running by selecting it’s icon on the top left, or you can go back to the home screen by clicking the home screen.  If you’re finished with an program, simply click the red X button on the top right of the window when you’re running it. Or, you can switch between programs using standard keyboard shortcuts such as Alt-tab. The default page on the home screen is the favorites page, and all of your other programs are orginized in their own sections on the left hand side.  But, if you want to add one of these to your favorites page, simply right-click on it and select Add to Favorites. When you’re done for the day, you can simply close your netbook to put it to sleep.  Or, if you want to shut down, just press the Quit button on the bottom right of the home screen and then select Shut Down. Booting Jolicloud When you install Jolicloud, it will set itself as the default operating system.  Now, when you boot your netbook, it will show you a list of installed operating systems.  You can select either Windows or Jolicloud, but if you don’t make a selection it will boot into Jolicloud after waiting 10 seconds. If you’d perfer to boot into Windows by default, you can easily change this.  First, boot your netbook in to Windows.  Open the start menu, right-click on the Computer button, and select Properties.   Click the “Advanced system settings” link on the left side. Click the Settings button in the Startup and Recovery section. Now, select Windows as the default operating system, and click Ok.  Your netbook will now boot into Windows by default, but will give you 10 seconds to choose to boot into Jolicloud when you start your computer. Or, if you decided you don’t want Jolicloud, you can easily uninstall it from within Windows. Please note that this will also remove any files you may have saved in Jolicloud, so be sure to copy them to your Windows drive before uninstalling. To uninstall Jolicloud from within Windows, open Control Panel, and select Uninstall a Program. Scroll down to select Jolicloud, and click Uninstall/Change. Click Yes to confirm that you want to uninstall Jolicloud. After a few moments, it will let you know that Jolicloud has been uninstalled.  You’re netbook is now back the same as it was before you installed Jolicloud, with only Windows installed. Closing Whether you’re wanting to replace your current OS on your netbook or would simply like to try out a fresh new Linux version on your netbook, Jolicloud is a great option for you.  We were very impressed by it’s solid hardware support and the ease of installing new apps in Jolicloud.  Rather than simply giving us a standard OS, Jolicloud offers a unique way to use your netbook with native programs and webapps.  And whether you’re an IT pro or are a new computer user, Jolicloud was easy enough to use that anyone can do it.  Give it a try, and let us know what your favorite netbook OS is! Link Download Jolicloud for your netbook Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips How To Change XSplash Themes in Ubuntu 9.10Verify the Integrity of Windows Vista System FilesMonitor Multiple Logs in a Single Shell with MultiTail for LinuxHide Some or All of the GUI Bars in FirefoxAsk the Readers: Do You Use a Laptop, Desktop, or Both? TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Stop In The Name Of Love (Firefox addon) Chitika iPad Labs Gives Live iPad Sale Stats Heaven & Hell Finder Icon Using TrueCrypt to Secure Your Data Quickly Schedule Meetings With NeedtoMeet Share Flickr Photos On Facebook Automatically

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  • SOLVED Install MythTV & 11.10 on Lenovo S12 (Intel atom) with wireless

    - by keepitsimpleengineer
    This is how I installed Ubuntu 11.10 and MythTV client on my Lenovo S12 (Intel Atom) laptop and use it using WiFi (see additional notes at end). I did this because the upgrade from 11.04 bricked the laptop. Note that the partitions on the Lenovo standard disk were already in place for this installation. Also note that my LAN is setup for fixed IP addresses. Downloaded and burned 11.10 x86 Desktop Ubuntu CD Connected the power supply cord, LAN wire and the external DVD USB drive. Ran Windows XP and made sure performance level "Performance" was set and "Wireless" was enabled. Booted S12 from CD Disabled Networking from icon on upper left panel icon Edited Connections… "Wired connection 1" ? Set IP address, accepted default netmask and set gateway. Also set DNS server. Good idea to check "Connection Information" here to verify everything's O.K. Selected Install Ubuntu from the initial "Install" window Verified the three items were checked (required disk space available, plugged into a power source, & connected to the Internet) Selected Download updates while installing and third party software. Hit Continue… At wireless selected don't want to connect…WiFi…now. Continue… At Installation type, selected Something else. Continue… At partition tale, selected the ext4 Linux partition, set the mount point as "/", and marked for formatting. Here I selected the main disk (/sda) for installing the boot manager. Continue… Selected or verified my Time zone. Continue… Selected my keyboard layout. Continue… Filled in the who are you fields. Make sure password is required to sign in is checked. Continue… Chose a picture. Continue… I selected import no accounts. Continue… Wait as the Install creeps along. If your screen goes blank, tap the space bar ? apparently the screen saver/power plan does this. There are several progress bars. The longest was "Installing system", and it was the next to the last one. Installation Complete window appears, Restart Now… Wait as it stops, The screen blanks then the message "…remove…media…close tray…press enter" I just unplugged the USB DVD and hit enter… It was disheartening but the screen turned Ubuntu Purple-beige and nothing happened, so I help down the power key until it shut down, the pressed it again and the Grub Boot screen appeared. Select Ubuntu… 25.The screen went blank with the little flashing underscore cursor on it and the disk light would occasionally flash. I hit the enter key and eventuality Ubuntu started. After a somewhat long time the unity desktop appeared. 11.10, unlike earlier versions, retains the connection information. Check this by checking the network icon on the upper left applet panel. Here the touch-pad·mouse quit working and I had to reboot. It takes and extremely long time to boot, sometimes requiring several power off/ power on (cold boot). You can try to get the default network manager to work, but it might not, it didn't on mine for WiFi. Thanks to: Chris at URL here's what to do… disconnect your wired Internet connection. input your wireless information into network manager open a terminal (unity dash, top of icon totem, open, and make sure the ruler&pen icon on the bottom is selected, 2nd from left) type in "terminal". Might be a good idea to drag and drop the terminal icon to the terminal, it's easy to get rid of later. click to open a terminal, and type in: sudo rmmod acer_wmi && echo "blacklist acer_wmi" >> /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist.conf and hit enter. type in your password as asked. if you have correctly entered your WiFi information and you are near your AP, you should connect immediately if not, see the URL above ? you might need to replace "network manager" with "wicd" ? I did with 11.04. Update the new 11.10, in the upper left panel applet weird·gear icon is menu with a line about updating. It's the new way to invoke Update Manager. Your lenovo S12 (intel atom) should now run the new unity Ubuntu. Point your elbow at the ceiling and pat yourself on the back. Installing Mythbuntu Client 24.1 Open mythbuntu.org/repos (I urge you not to directly use Ubuntu Software Center for this) Install Mythbuntu Repos Save the file (in ~/Downloads, the default) Run the file ? it will update your repositories so that you will get the proper installation sources ? it will start Ubuntu Software Center to do this ? Click Install… You will need your password. Debconf window will open, select by making sure check mark is in the little box "Would you like to activate…". Forward… Which version? At the time of writing the current "Stable" version was 24.1, select 0.24.x… Forward… Read the message, then forward… Delete the downloaded file. Install synaptic (unity dash, top of icon totem, open, and make sure the ruler&pen icon on the bottom is selected, 2nd from left) type in "synaptic". Click on the synaptic icon. Ubuntu Software Center will open and allow you to install synaptic package manager. Open Synaptic (unity dash, top of icon totem, open, and make sure the ruler&pen icon on the bottom is selected, 2nd from left) type in "Synaptic". Might be a good idea to drag and drop the terminal icon to the terminal, it's easy to get rid of later. Run synaptic, read the intro, and close the intro window. Type in mythbuntu-control-centre in the Quick filter text box, and then select it "Mark for installation" by clicking on the box next to it's name. Marvel at the additional to be installed items, then select "?Mark"… At the top of the synaptic window click on the "? Apply" button. Marvel at the amount of stuff to be installed, the click on "Apply". When finished, close finished window and synaptic. Open mythbuntu-control-centre (unity dash, top of icon totem, open, and make sure the ruler&pen icon on the bottom is selected, 2nd from left) type in "mythbuntu". Might be a good idea to drag and drop the mythbuntu-control-centre icon to the terminal, it's easy to get rid of later. You can now configure and install the frontend. Go down the icon totem on the right side of the window and click as needed… System roles. ? No Backend, Desktop Frontend, and Ubuntu Desktop. Apply… & Apply changes… & Password… MySQL Configuration ? from backend ? Setup General Alt-N(ext) Alt-N(ext) Stetting Access Setup PIN code: ~~~~ Input Security key and click "Test Connection", if ?, then Apply… & Apply… {note: for some inexplicable reason, control centre hung on this, but when I restarted it, it was set properly} Graphics drivers, When I did this, only the Broadcom wireless driver showed up. I closed without doing anything. Services. I enabled SSH & Samba. Apply… & Apply… Repositories. Asked & Answered. MythExport. Pass, I believe it requires backend on the same system. Proprietary Codec Support. Check to enable, Apply… & Apply… System Updates. No action necessary, will be a part of the Ubuntu update mechanism. Themes and Artwork. For themes, I selected Enable/Update all. Apply… & Apply… Infrared & Startup behavior and Plugins. Defer until you know more. Close software centre. Open mythTV (unity dash, top of icon totem, open, and make sure the ruler&pen icon on the bottom is selected, 2nd from left) type in "mythTV". Might be a good idea to drag and drop the mythTV icon to the terminal, it's easy to get rid of later. Incorrect Group Membership. Fix this by clicking "Yes"… Log out/end. Do this by clicking "Yes"… For my Lenovo S12, I had to manually restart Ubuntu - and still with the very long restart…/no start/cold boot/reboot/pressing the shift key required Open mythTV (unity dash, top of icon totem, open, and make sure the ruler&pen icon on the bottom is selected, 2nd from left) type in "mythTV". Might be a good idea to drag and drop the mythTV icon to the terminal, it's easy to get rid of later. Will open with Select country & language. Do so. then get message with "No", hit "Ok" and arrive at the data base Configuration 1/2 screen. You will need your brackend password, from backend ? Setup General Database Configuration 1/2 Password:~? Enter this Hit Alt-n to go to the next page. Select "Use custom id…", then enter a custom ID, I use the machine's name. Hit finish, and MythTV should start up with all default settings. For the lenovo S12, the first thing you want to do is to set Playback profiles to "Normal". From Setup TV Settings Playback Alt-N(ext) Alt-N(ext) Playback Profiles (3/8) : Change Current Video Playback Profile to "Normal". You can fiddle with this setting later. For the lenovo S12, the second thing is to get the sound going. From Setup General Alt-N(ext) Alt-N(ext) Alt-N(ext) Audio System: The top of the screen is a button title "Scan for audio devices", move the highlight there and press the Space bar. Then Tab down to Audio Output Device: and left-right arrow until "ALSA:hw:Card=Intel,DEV=0" is selected. Then Alt-N(ext) until "Finish". Now you should have sound. You should now have MythTV working nicely on the Lenovo S12 Notes about wireless: Running Lenovo S12 on wireless is demanding on both power and WiFi connection. Best results will be obtained when running on power and wired connection. I run my S12 on wireless, actually two serial connections with two access points, something that is not easy to achieve. Here Mythbuntu client-server (in den) <? wireless link 1 <?office LAN? wireless link 2 <? Lenovo S12 Ubuntu 11.10 The office LAN is fixed IP behind an Untangle firewall router. There is another MythTV client on Ubuntu 10.10 computer in the office (which has always worked well). ProblemMythbuntu\Win7 client hangs with frozen frames, short segment of audio repeating. Hardware Rosewill RNX-G300EX IEEE 802.11b/g PCI Wireless Card on client-server 2 Linksys WRT54GL wireless broadband routers on LAN for link1 and link 2 WRT54GL FirmwareDD-WRT v24-sp2(07/22/09) voip set up to act as an access point. Note? many people advised this was an unworkable scheme, and in probably most cases it will be. Solution? Set up DD-WRT with the following Wireless settings… Basic Channel: Different fixed channels at least 4 difference, I use 6 & 11 Basic Sensitivity Range (ACK timing): 50 MAC filter use filter: Enable, Selected Permit only clients listed to access… Requires adding MAC addresses in "Edit MAC Filter List" This causes the 54GL's to ignore any but the listed MAC address, down side, no "guest" capability. Advanced Basic rate: All Advanced CTS Protection Mode: Off Advanced Frame Burst: Enable Advanced Max associate clients: 4 for client link 2, 1 for client-server link 1 Advanced AP isolation: Enable Advanced Preamble: Short Advanced Afterburner: On Advanced Wireless GUI access: Off Advanced WMM support: Off Other settings: default for supplied firmware. Why I suspect this worked? The 54GL Access Points's with the firmware's setting are set to handle a multiple client, wide area situation. With these mods I reconfigured them for a small area, few client situation, disabling Advanced WMM probably the most important. In addition, the client mythtv when used all other users of its access point are turned off except for a Skype phone. Also, the client-server is set up to allow other connections though it's LAN connection, and these are used to connect the TV and disc players, not used when client is being used.

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  • Crop, Edit, and Print Photos in Windows 7 Media Center

    - by DigitalGeekery
    Windows Media Center is a nice application for managing and displaying your personal photos, but you may occasionally need to make some basic edits to your pictures. Today we’ll take a look at how to crop, edit, and print photos right from Windows 7 Media Center. From within the Picture Library in Windows Media Center, choose a photo to work with, right-click and select Picture Details. You can also access this option with a Media Center remote by clicking the “i” button. Note: You’ll notice you have the option to rotate the picture from this menu. It is also available on the next screen.  Rotate a picture Now you’ll see more options on the Picture Details screen. From here you can rotate, Print, or Touch Up, Delete, or Burn a CD/DVD. To rotate the picture, simple select Rotate. Note: If you want your photo saved with the new orientation, you’ll need to select Save from the Touch Up screen that we will look at later in the article.   Each click will rotate the picture 90 degrees clockwise. You’ll see the new orientation of the picture displayed on the Picture Details screen after you have clicked Rotate. Print a picture From the Picture Details screen, select Print. Click Print again. Media Center automatically prints to your default printer, so make sure your desired target printer is set as default. Crop and Edit Photos To edit or crop your photo, select Touch Up. Touch Up options includes, Crop, Contrast, and Red Eye removal. First, we’ll select the Crop button to crop our photo.   You will see a cropping area overlay appear on your photo. Select one of the buttons below to adjust the location, size, and orientation of the area to be cropped. When you’re happy with your selection, click Save. You’ll be prompted to confirm your save. Click Yes to permanently save your edits. You can also apply Contrast or Red Eye adjustments to your photos. There aren’t any advanced settings for these options. You merely toggle the Contrast or Red Eye on or off by selecting the option. Be sure to click Save before exiting to if you’ve made any changes you wish to permanently apply to the photos. This includes rotating the images. While this method is not likely to be replace your favorite image editing software, it does give you the ability to make basic edits and print photos directly from Windows Media Center. With a Media Center remote, you can even do all your edits from the comfort of your recliner. Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Using Netflix Watchnow in Windows Vista Media Center (Gmedia)Schedule Updates for Windows Media CenterIntegrate Hulu Desktop and Windows Media Center in Windows 7Add Color Coding to Windows 7 Media Center Program GuideIntegrate Boxee with Media Center in Windows 7 TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Outlook Connector Upgrade Error Gadfly is a cool Twitter/Silverlight app Enable DreamScene in Windows 7 Microsoft’s “How Do I ?” Videos Home Networks – How do they look like & the problems they cause Check Your IMAP Mail Offline In Thunderbird

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  • Installing SharePoint 2010 in one machine with built in database

    - by sreejukg
    It is very easy to deploy SharePoint 2010 in a single server using the built-in database. Normally one need to choose such installation for evaluation purposes. When installing with default settings, setup installs Microsoft SQL server 2008 express database along with SharePoint. After installing SharePoint, you need to run SharePoint products and technology configuration wizard which will install central admin website and creates the configuration database and content database for SharePoint sites. Limitations 1. You can not perform this installation on a domain controller 2. The maximum size for express edition database is 4 GB SharePoint 2010 only supports 64 bit operating systems. The installation steps are for windows server r2 64 bit enterprise edition. Installation steps The first screen for the installation is as follows As a first step you need to install the s/w prerequisites. Click on the corresponding link Click next, here you have to agree on the license terms. Select the checkbox and then click next. The installation will starts. The progress will be updated in the screen. This may take some time as during this process, there are some components needs to be downloaded from internet. Make sure you are connected to the internet, then only the installation will become a success. If any error occurs, it will display the error, you need to configure in order to continue. If everything ok you will receive the following success page. Click finish to exit the installation window. Now from the first screen, select Install SharePoint server. This will install SharePoint and SQL server 2008 express edition. First you need to enter the product key for SharePoint. Enter the product key and clicks continue. Now you need to accept the license agreement. Select the checkbox and click on continue. Select the installation type you want.   Now click on the standalone button. In production scenario, you need to select the server farm installation. This article only cover the first option, installing server farm is not in the scope of this article. Once you click on the standalone, the installation starts and you can view the progress as below. If any error occurred during installation, you will get the details and link to the log file. Refer log file and fix the corresponding issue and then start the installation again. If installation completes without any error, you will see the below screen. Make sure you selected the check box “Run the SharePoint products Configuration Wizard now” and click close. The SharePoint products configuration wizard starts. Click next; you will get the following warning Click yes and the configuration steps starts. You can view the progress for each step. Once completed the below screen appears to the user. Click finish to complete the installation. Now SharePoint installation is completed. You can navigate to SharePoint central administration website from the administrative tools and start building your portal. Good luck

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  • Unreal Tournament 3 vs UDK: What Should I Choose?

    - by Matt Christian
    Many people in the mod community were very excited to see the release of the Unreal Developer Kit (UDK) a few months ago.  Along with generating excitement into a very dedicated community, it also introduced many new modders into a flourishing area of indie-development.  However, since UDK is free, most beginners jump right into UDK, which is OK though you might just benefit more from purchasing a shelf-copy of Unreal Tournament 3. UDK UDK is a free full version of UnrealEd (the editor environment used to create games like Gears of War 1/2, Bioshock 1/2, and of course Unreal Tournament 3).  The editor gives you all the features of the editor from the shelf-copy of the game plus some refinements in many of the tools.  (One of the first things you'll find about UnrealEd is that it's a collection of tools grouped into the same editor so it really isn't a single 'tool') Interestingly enough, Epic is allowing you to sell any game made in UDK with a few catches.  First off, you must purchase a liscense for your game (which, I THINK is aproximately $99 starting).  Secondly, you must pay 25% of all profits for the first $5,000 of your game revenue to them (about $1250).  Finally, you cannot use any of the 'media' provided in UDK for your game.  UDK provides sample meshes, textures, materials, sounds, and other sample pieces of media pulled (mostly) from Unreal Tournament 3. The final point here will really determine whether you should use UDK.  There is a very small amount of media provided in UDK for someone to go in and begin creating levels without first developing your own meshes, textures, and other media.  Sure, you can slap together a few unique levels, though you will end up finding yourself restriced to the same items over and over and over.  This is absolutely how professional game development is; you are 'given' (typically liscensed or built in-house) an engine/editor and you begin creating all the content for the game and placing it.  UDK is aimed toward those who really want to build their game content from scratch with a currently existing engine.  It is not suited for someone who would like to simply build levels and quick mods without learning external 3D programs and image editing software. Unreal Tournament 3 Unless you have a serious grudge against FPS's, Epic, or your computer sucks, there really is no reason not to own this game for PC.  You can pick it up on Steam or Amazon for around $20 brand new.  Not only are you provided with a full single-player and multiplayer game, but you are given the entire UnrealEd 3.0 including all of the content used to build UT3.  If you want to start building levels and mods quickly for UT3, you should absolutely pick up a shelf-copy. However, as off-the-shelf UT3 is a few years old now, the tools have not been updated for quite a while.  Compared to UDK, the menus are more difficult to navigate through and take more time getting used to.  Since UDK is updated almost every month, there are new inclusions to the editor that may not be in UT3 (including the future addition of 3D!).  I haven't worked enough with shelf UT3 to see if there are more features in UDK or if they both feature the same stuff in different forms, however you should remember that the Unreal Engine 3.0 has undergone numerous upgrades between it's launch and Gears of War 2 (in fact, Epic had a conference to show off what changed just between the Gears of Wars games). Since UT3 has much more core content, someone who wants to focus on level editing or modding the core UT3 game may find their needs better suited with an off-the-shelf copy of UT3.  If that level designer has a team that is generating custom assets, they may be better off with UDK. The choice is now yours...

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  • How to Add Your Gmail Account to Outlook 2013 Using IMAP

    - by Lori Kaufman
    If you use Outlook to check and manage your email, you can easily use it to check your Gmail account as well. You can setup your Gmail account to allow you to synchronize email across multiple machines using email clients instead of a browser. We will show you how to use IMAP in your Gmail account so you can synchronize your Gmail account across multiple machines, and then how to add your Gmail account to Outlook 2013. To setup your Gmail account to use IMAP, sign in to your Gmail account and go to Mail. Click the Settings button in the upper, right corner of the window and select Settings from the drop-down menu. On the Settings screen, click Forwarding and POP/IMAP. Scroll down to the IMAP Access section and select Enable IMAP. Click Save Changes at the bottom of the screen. Close your browser and open Outlook. To begin adding your Gmail account, click the File tab. On the Account Information screen, click Add Account. On the Add Account dialog box, you can choose the E-mail Account option which automatically sets up your Gmail account in Outlook. To do this enter your name, email address, and the password for your Gmail account twice. Click Next. The progress of the setup displays. The automatic process may or may not work. If the automatic process fails, select Manual setup or additional server types, instead of E-mail Account, and click Next. On the Choose Service screen, select POP or IMAP and click Next. On the POP and IMAP Account Settings enter the User, Server, and Logon Information. For the Server Information, select IMAP from the Account Type drop-down list and enter the following for the incoming and outgoing server information: Incoming mail server: imap.googlemail.com Outgoing mail server (SMTP): smtp.googlemail.com Make sure you enter your full email address for the User Name and select Remember password if you want Outlook to automatically log you in when checking email. Click More Settings. On the Internet E-mail Settings dialog box, click the Outgoing Server tab. Select the My outgoing server (SMTP) requires authentication and make sure the Use same settings as my incoming mail server option is selected. While still in the Internet E-mail Settings dialog box, click the Advanced tab. Enter the following information: Incoming server: 993 Incoming server encrypted connection: SSL Outgoing server encrypted connection TLS Outgoing server: 587 NOTE: You need to select the type of encrypted connection for the outgoing server before entering 587 for the Outgoing server (SMTP) port number. If you enter the port number first, the port number will revert back to port 25 when you change the type of encrypted connection. Click OK to accept your changes and close the Internet E-mail Settings dialog box. Click Next. Outlook tests the accounts settings by logging into the incoming mail server and sending a test email message. When the test is finished, click Close. You should see a screen saying “You’re all set!”. Click Finish. Your Gmail address displays in the account list on the left with any other email addresses you have added to Outlook. Click the Inbox to see what’s in your Inbox in your Gmail account. Because you’re using IMAP in your Gmail account and you used IMAP to add the account to Outlook, the messages and folders in Outlook reflect what’s in your Gmail account. Any changes you make to folders and any time you move email messages among folders in Outlook, the same changes are made in your Gmail account, as you will see when you log into your Gmail account in a browser. This works the other way as well. Any changes you make to the structure of your account (folders, etc.) in a browser will be reflected the next time you log into your Gmail account in Outlook.     

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  • Old School Wizardry Tip: Batch File Comments

    - by jkauffman
    Johnny, the Endangered Keyboard-Driven Windows User Some of my proudest, obscure Windows tricks are losing their relevance. I know I’m not alone. Keyboard shortcuts are going the way of the dodo. I used to induce fearful awe by slapping Ctrl+Shift+Esc in front of the lowly, pedestrian Windows users. No windows key on the keyboard? No problem: Ctrl+Esc. No menu key on the keyboard: Shift+F10. I am also firmly planted in the habit of closing windows with the Alt+Space menu (Alt+Space, C); and I harbor a brooding, slow=growing list of programs that fail to support this correctly (that means you, Paint.NET). Every time a new version of windows comes out, the support for some of these minor time-saving habits get pared out. Will I complain publicly? Nope, I know my old ways should be axed to conserve precious design energy. In fact, I disapprove of fierce un-intuitiveness for the sake of alleged productivity. Like vim, for example. If you approach a program after being away for 5 years, having to recall encyclopedic knowledge is a flaw. The RTFM disciples have lost. Anyway, some of the items in my arsenal of goofy time-saving tricks are still relevant today. I wanted to draw attention to one that’s stood the test of time. Remember Batch Files? Yes, it’s true, batch files are fading faster than the world of print. But they're not dead yet. I still run into some situations where I opt to use batch files. They are still relevant for build processes, or just various development workflow tools. Sure, there’s powershell, but there’s that stupid Set-ExecutionPolicy speed bump standing in your way; can you really spare the time to A) hunt down that setting on all machines affected and/or B) make futile efforts to convince your coworkers/boss that the hassle was worth it? When possible, I prefer the batch file wild card. And whenever I return to batch files, I end up researching some of the unintuitive aspects such as parameters, quote handling, and ERRORLEVEL. But I never have to remember to use “REM” for comment lines, because there’s a cleaner way to do them! Double Colon For Eye-Friendly Comments Here is a very simple batch file, with pretty much minimal content: @ECHO OFF SETLOCAL REM This is a comment ECHO This batch file doesn’t do much If you code on a daily basis, this may be more suitable to your eyes: @ECHO OFF SETLOCAL :: This is a comment ECHO This batch file doesn’t do much Works great! I imagine I find it preferable due to the similarity to comments in other situations: // or ;  or # I’ve often make visual pseudo-line breaks in my code, and this colon-based syntax works wonders: @ECHO OFF SETLOCAL :: Do stuff ECHO Doing Stuff :::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :: Do more stuff ECHO This batch file doesn’t do much Not only is it more readable, but there’s a slight performance benefit. The batch file engine sees this as an invalid line label and immediately reads the following line. Use that fact to your advantage if this trick leads you into heated nerd debate. Two Pitfalls to Avoid Be aware of that there are a couple situations where this hack will fail you. It most likely won’t be a problem unless you’re getting really sophisticated with your batch files. Pitfall #1: Inline comments @ECHO OFF SETLOCAL IF EXIST C:\SomeFile.txt GOTO END ::This will fail :END Unfortunately, this fails. You can only have whitespace to the left of your comments. Pitfall #2: Code Blocks @ECHO OFF SETLOCAL IF EXIST C:\SomeFile.txt (         :: This will fail         ECHO HELLO ) Code blocks, such as if statements and for loops, cannot contain these comments. This is ultimately due to the fact that entire code blocks are processed as a single line. I originally learned this from Rob van der Woude’s site. He goes into more depth about the behavior of the pitfalls as well, if you are interested in further details. I hope this trick earns you serious geek rep!

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  • Move a sphere along the swipe?

    - by gameOne
    I am trying to get a sphere curl based on the swipe. I know this has been asked many times, but still it's yearning to be answered. I have managed to add force on the direction of the swipe and it works near perfect. I also have all the swipe positions stored in a list. Now I would like to know how can the curl be achieved. I believe the the curve in the swipe can be calculated by the Vector dot product If theta is 0, then there is no need to add the swipe. If it is not, then add the curl. Maybe this condition is redundant if I managed to find how to curl the sphere along the swipe position The code that adds the force to sphere based on the swipe direction is as below: using UnityEngine; using System.Collections; using System.Collections.Generic; public class SwipeControl : MonoBehaviour { //First establish some variables private Vector3 fp; //First finger position private Vector3 lp; //Last finger position private Vector3 ip; //some intermediate finger position private float dragDistance; //Distance needed for a swipe to register public float power; private Vector3 footballPos; private bool canShoot = true; private float factor = 40f; private List<Vector3> touchPositions = new List<Vector3>(); void Start(){ dragDistance = Screen.height*20/100; Physics.gravity = new Vector3(0, -20, 0); footballPos = transform.position; } // Update is called once per frame void Update() { //Examine the touch inputs foreach (Touch touch in Input.touches) { /*if (touch.phase == TouchPhase.Began) { fp = touch.position; lp = touch.position; }*/ if (touch.phase == TouchPhase.Moved) { touchPositions.Add(touch.position); } if (touch.phase == TouchPhase.Ended) { fp = touchPositions[0]; lp = touchPositions[touchPositions.Count-1]; ip = touchPositions[touchPositions.Count/2]; //First check if it's actually a drag if (Mathf.Abs(lp.x - fp.x) > dragDistance || Mathf.Abs(lp.y - fp.y) > dragDistance) { //It's a drag //Now check what direction the drag was //First check which axis if (Mathf.Abs(lp.x - fp.x) > Mathf.Abs(lp.y - fp.y)) { //If the horizontal movement is greater than the vertical movement... if ((lp.x>fp.x) && canShoot) //If the movement was to the right) { //Right move float x = (lp.x - fp.x) / Screen.height * factor; rigidbody.AddForce((new Vector3(x,10,16))*power); Debug.Log("right "+(lp.x-fp.x));//MOVE RIGHT CODE HERE canShoot = false; //rigidbody.AddForce((new Vector3((lp.x-fp.x)/30,10,16))*power); StartCoroutine(ReturnBall()); } else { //Left move float x = (lp.x - fp.x) / Screen.height * factor; rigidbody.AddForce((new Vector3(x,10,16))*power); Debug.Log("left "+(lp.x-fp.x));//MOVE LEFT CODE HERE canShoot = false; //rigidbody.AddForce(new Vector3((lp.x-fp.x)/30,10,16)*power); StartCoroutine(ReturnBall()); } } else { //the vertical movement is greater than the horizontal movement if (lp.y>fp.y) //If the movement was up { //Up move float y = (lp.y-fp.y)/Screen.height*factor; float x = (lp.x - fp.x) / Screen.height * factor; rigidbody.AddForce((new Vector3(x,y,16))*power); Debug.Log("up "+(lp.x-fp.x));//MOVE UP CODE HERE canShoot = false; //rigidbody.AddForce(new Vector3((lp.x-fp.x)/30,10,16)*power); StartCoroutine(ReturnBall()); } else { //Down move Debug.Log("down "+lp+" "+fp);//MOVE DOWN CODE HERE } } } else { //It's a tap Debug.Log("none");//TAP CODE HERE } } } } IEnumerator ReturnBall() { yield return new WaitForSeconds(5.0f); rigidbody.velocity = Vector3.zero; rigidbody.angularVelocity = Vector3.zero; transform.position = footballPos; canShoot =true; isKicked = false; } }

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  • Best depth sorting method for a Top Down 2D game using a 3D physics engine

    - by Alic44
    I've spent many days googling this and still have issues with my game engine I'd like to ask about, which I haven't seen addressed before. I think the problem is that my game is an unusual combination of a completely 2D graphical approach using XNA's SpriteBatch, and a completely 3D engine (the amazing BEPU physics engine) with rotation mostly disabled. In essence, my question is similar to this one (the part about "faux 3D"), but the difference is that in my game, the player as well as every other creature is represented by 3D objects, and they can all jump, pick up other objects, and throw them around. What this means is that sorting by one value, such as a Z position (how far north/south a character is on the screen) won't work, because as soon as a smaller creature jumps on top of a larger creature, or a box, and walks backwards, the moment its z value is less than that other creature, it will appear to be behind the object it is actually standing on. I actually originally solved this problem by splitting every object in the game into physics boxes which MUST have a Y height equal to their Z depth. I then based the depth sorting value on the object's y position (how high it is off the ground) PLUS its z position (how far north or south it is on the screen). The problem with this approach is that it requires all moving objects in the game to be split graphically into chunks which match up with a physical box which has its y dimension equal to its z dimension. Which is stupid. So, I got inspired last night to rewrite with a fresh approach. My new method is a little more complex, but I think a little more sane: every object which needs to be sorted by depth in the game exposes the interface IDepthDrawable and is added to a list owned by the DepthDrawer object. IDepthDrawable contains: public interface IDepthDrawable { Rectangle Bounds { get; } //possibly change this to a class if struct copying of the xna Rectangle type becomes an issue DepthDrawShape DepthShape { get; } void Draw(SpriteBatch spriteBatch); } The Bounds Rectangle of each IDepthDrawable object represents the 2D Axis-Aligned Bounding Box it will take up when drawn to the screen. Anything that doesn't intersect the screen will be culled at this stage and the remaining on-screen IDepthDrawables will be Bounds tested for intersections with each other. This is where I get a little less sure of what I'm doing. Each group of collisions will be added to a list or other collection, and each list will sort itself based on its DepthShape property, which will have access to the object-to-be-drawn's physics information. For starting out, lets assume everything in the game is an axis aligned 3D Box shape. Boxes are pretty easy to sort. Something like: if (depthShape1.Back > depthShape2.Front) //if depthShape1 is in front of depthShape2. //depthShape1 goes on top. else if (depthShape1.Bottom > depthShape2.Top) //if depthShape1 is above depthShape2. //depthShape1 goes on top. //if neither of these are true, depthShape2 must be in front or above. So, by sorting draw order by several different factors from the physics engine, I believe I can get a really correct draw order. My question is, is this a good way of going about this, or is there some tried and true, tested way which is completely different and has somehow completely eluded me on the internets? And, if this does seem like a good way to remake my draw order sorting, what's the right sorting algorithm for reordering the Bounds Rectangle collision lists, and how do you deal with a Bounds Rectangle colliding with two different object which don't collide with eachother. I know these are solved problems, but I've only been programming for a year so any specific input here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading this far, ye who made it -- sorry it was so long!

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  • SQL SERVER – Solution – User Not Able to See Any User Created Object in Tables – Security and Permissions Issue

    - by pinaldave
    There is an old quote “A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words”. I believe this quote immensely. Quite often I get phone calls that something is not working if I can help. My reaction is in most of the cases, I need to know more, send me exact error or a screenshot. Until and unless I see the error or reproduce the scenario myself I prefer not to comment. Yesterday I got a similar phone call from an old friend, where he was not sure what is going on. Here is what he said. “When I try to connect to SQL Server, it lets me connect just fine as well let me open and explore the database. I noticed that I do not see any user created instances but when my colleague attempts to connect to the server, he is able to explore the database as well see all the user created tables and other objects. Can you help me fix it? “ My immediate reaction was he was facing security and permission issue. However, to make the same recommendation I suggested that he send me a screenshot of his own SSMS and his friend’s SSMS. After carefully looking at both the screenshots, I was very confident about the issue and we were able to resolve the issue. Let us reproduce the same scenario and many there is some learning for us. Issue: User not able to see user created objects First let us see the image of my friend’s SSMS screen. (Recreated on my machine) Now let us see my friend’s colleague SSMS screen. (Recreated on my machine) You can see that my friend could not see the user tables but his colleague was able to do the same for sure. Now I believed it was a permissions issue. Further to this I asked him to send me another image where I can see the various permissions of the user in the database. My friends screen My friends colleagues screen This indeed proved that my friend did not have access to the AdventureWorks database and because of the same he was not able to access the database. He did have public access which means he will have similar rights as guest access. However, their SQL Server had followed my earlier advise on having limited access for guest access, which means he was not able to see any user created objects. My next question was to validate what kind of access my friend’s colleague had. He replied that the colleague is the admin of the server. I suggested that if my friend was suppose to have admin access to the database, he should request of having admin access to his colleague. My friend promptly asked for the same to his colleague and on following screen he added him as an admin. You can do the same using following T-SQL script as well. USE [AdventureWorks2012] GO ALTER ROLE [db_owner] ADD MEMBER [testguest] GO Once my friend was admin he was able to access all the user objects just like he was expecting. Please note, this complete exercise was done on a development server. One should not play around with security on live or production server. Security is such an issue, which should be left with only senior administrator of the server. Reference: Pinal Dave (http://blog.SQLAuthority.com) Filed under: PostADay, SQL, SQL Authority, SQL Query, SQL Security, SQL Server, SQL Tips and Tricks, T SQL, Technology

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  • XNA RenderTarget2D Sample

    - by Michael B. McLaughlin
    I remember being scared of render targets when I first started with XNA. They seemed like weird magic and I didn’t understand them at all. There’s nothing to be frightened of, though, and they are pretty easy to learn how to use. The first thing you need to know is that when you’re drawing in XNA, you aren’t actually drawing to the screen. Instead you’re drawing to this thing called the “back buffer”. Internally, XNA maintains two sections of graphics memory. Each one is exactly the same size as the other and has all the same properties (such as surface format, whether there’s a depth buffer and/or a stencil buffer, and so on). XNA flips between these two sections of memory every update-draw cycle. So while you are drawing to one, it’s busy drawing the other one on the screen. Then the current update-draw cycle ends, it flips, and the section you were just drawing to gets drawn to the screen while the one that was being drawn to the screen before is now the one you’ll be drawing on. This is what’s meant by “double buffering”. If you drew directly to the screen, the player would see all of those draws taking place as they happened and that would look odd and not very good at all. Those two sections of graphics memory are render targets. All a render target is, is a section of graphics memory to which things can be drawn. In addition to the two that XNA maintains automatically, you can also create and set your own using RenderTarget2D and GraphicsDevice.SetRenderTarget. Using render targets lets you do all sorts of neat post-processing effects (like bloom) to make your game look cooler. It also just lets you do things like motion blur and lets you create mirrors in 3D games. There are quite a lot of things that render targets let you do. To go along with this post, I wrote up a simple sample for how to create and use a RenderTarget2D. It’s available under the terms of the Microsoft Public License and is available for download on my website here: http://www.bobtacoindustries.com/developers/utils/RenderTarget2DSample.zip . Other than the ‘using’ statements, every line is commented in detail so that it should (hopefully) be easy to follow along with and understand. If you have any questions, leave a comment here or drop me a line on Twitter. One last note. While creating the sample I came across an interesting quirk. If you start by creating a Windows Game, and then make a copy for Windows Phone 7, the drop-down that lets you choose between drawing to a WP7 device and the WP7 emulator stays grayed-out. To resolve this, you need to right click on the Windows Phone 7 version in the Solution Explorer, and choose “Set as StartUp Project”. The bar will then become active, letting you change the target you which to deploy to. If you want another version to be the one that starts up when you press F5 to start debugging, just go and right-click on that version and choose “Set as StartUp Project” for it once you’ve set the WP7 target (device or emulator) that you want.

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  • How do I get to work my Atheros AR9485 Wireless card in Ubuntu 14.04 LTS?

    - by Ivan Kreimer
    I've recently installed Ubuntu 14.04 LTS in my ASUS D550CA, and so far things have gone great. The only problem I've got is the Wi-Fi. It doesn't work. I've got an Qualcomm Atheros AR9485. I've tried installing the drivers, but the sytem says it doesn't find any. So I started looking around this forum for solutions. I've read every single post from this forum about my Wi-Fi network adapter, and I've found nothing that solves my problem. Let me give you some info about my configuration. Disclaimer: my configuration is in spanish, so if you don't understand something you can either use Google translate, or use your imagination. :D When I run $ sudo lshw -C network this is what I get: *-network DEACTIVATED descripción: Interfaz inalámbrica producto: AR9485 Wireless Network Adapter fabricante: Qualcomm Atheros id físico: 0 información del bus: pci@0000:02:00.0 nombre lógico: wlan0 versión: 01 serie: 28:e3:47:5c:5d:3f anchura: 64 bits reloj: 33MHz capacidades: pm msi pciexpress bus_master cap_list rom ethernet physical wireless configuración: broadcast=yes driver=ath9k driverversion=3.13.0-34-generic firmware=N/A latency=0 link=no multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11bgn recursos: irq:17 memoria:f7d00000-f7d7ffff memoria:f7d80000-f7d8ffff *-network descripción: Ethernet interface producto: RTL8101E/RTL8102E PCI Express Fast Ethernet controller fabricante: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. id físico: 0.2 información del bus: pci@0000:03:00.2 nombre lógico: eth0 versión: 06 serie: e0:3f:49:ce:57:49 tamaño: 100Mbit/s capacidad: 100Mbit/s anchura: 64 bits reloj: 33MHz capacidades: pm msi pciexpress msix vpd bus_master cap_list ethernet physical tp mii 10bt 10bt-fd 100bt 100bt-fd autonegotiation configuración: autonegotiation=on broadcast=yes driver=r8169 driverversion=2.3LK-NAPI duplex=full firmware=rtl8402-1_0.0.1 10/26/11 ip=181.165.245.39 latency=0 link=yes multicast=yes port=MII speed=100Mbit/s recursos: irq:41 ioport:e000(size=256) memoria:f0004000-f0004fff memoria:f0000000-f0003fff At the beginning, you'll see that it says "*-network DEACTIVATED" (or at least that's what I translated), is that something bad? Then, when I run ipconfig this is what I get: eth0 Link encap:Ethernet direcciónHW e0:3f:49:ce:57:49 Direc. inet:181.165.245.39 Difus.:181.165.245.255 Másc:255.255.255.0 Dirección inet6: fe80::e23f:49ff:fece:5749/64 Alcance:Enlace ACTIVO DIFUSIÓN FUNCIONANDO MULTICAST MTU:1500 Métrica:1 Paquetes RX:221199 errores:0 perdidos:0 overruns:0 frame:0 Paquetes TX:62025 errores:0 perdidos:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 colisiones:0 long.colaTX:1000 Bytes RX:124409589 (124.4 MB) TX bytes:7471899 (7.4 MB) lo Link encap:Bucle local Direc. inet:127.0.0.1 Másc:255.0.0.0 Dirección inet6: ::1/128 Alcance:Anfitrión ACTIVO BUCLE FUNCIONANDO MTU:65536 Métrica:1 Paquetes RX:2977 errores:0 perdidos:0 overruns:0 frame:0 Paquetes TX:2977 errores:0 perdidos:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 colisiones:0 long.colaTX:0 Bytes RX:397158 (397.1 KB) TX bytes:397158 (397.1 KB) When I put iwconfig: eth0 no wireless extensions. lo no wireless extensions. wlan0 IEEE 802.11bgn ESSID:off/any Mode:Managed Access Point: Not-Associated Tx-Power=off Retry long limit:7 RTS thr:off Fragment thr:off Power Management:off Finally, when I put sudo rfkill list all, I got: 0: phy0: Wireless LAN Soft blocked: no Hard blocked: yes 1: asus-wlan: Wireless LAN Soft blocked: no Hard blocked: no 2: asus-bluetooth: Bluetooth Soft blocked: no Hard blocked: no I hope anyone can help me solve this, I've searched a lot and found no solution. Thanks a lot.

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  • Make the Time

    - by WonderOfItAll
    Took the little one to the pool tonight for swim lessons. Okay, Okay. They're not really lessons so much as they are "Hey, here's a few bucks, let me rent out a small section of your pool to swim around with my little one" Saw a dad at the pool. Bluetooth on, iPad in hand, and two year old somewhere around there. Saw a mom at the pool. Arguing with her five year old to NOT take a shower after swimming. Bluetooth on, iPad in hand, work laptop open on stadium seats. Her reasoning for not wanting the child to shower "Look, I have to get this stuff to the office by 6:30, we don't have time for you to shower. Let's go" Wait, isn't the whole point of this little experience called Mommy and Me (or, as in my case, Daddy and Me). Wherein Mommy/Daddy is supposed to spend time with little one. Not with the Bluetooth. Not with the work laptop. Dad (yeah, the same dad from earlier), in the pool. Bluetooth off (it's not waterproof or I'm sure he would've had it on), two year old in hand and iPad somewhere put away. Getting frustrated with kid because he won't 'perform' on command. Here's a little exchange Kid: "I don't wanna get in the water" Dad: "Well, we're here for 30 minutes, get in the water" Kid: "No, don't wanna" Dad: "Fine, I'm getting in" and, true to his word, in he goes, off to swim. Kid: Crying Dad: "Well, c'mon" Kid: Walking to stands Dad: Ignoring kid Kid: At stands Dad: Out of pool, drying off. Frustrated. Grabs bag, grabs kid, leaves How sad. It really seems like I am living in a generation of parents who view their children as one big scheduled distraction to another. It's almost like the dad was saying "Look, little 2 year old boy, I have a busy scheduled. Right now my Outlook Calendar tells me that I have 30 mins to spend with you, so, let's go kid: PERFORM because I have the time" Really? Can someone please tell me when the hell this happened? When did spending time with your kid, spending time with your family, spending time with your spouse, etc... become a distraction? I've seen people at work all day Tweeting throughout the day, checked in with Four Square, IM up and running constantly so they can 'stay in touch' only to see these same folks come home and be irritated because their kids or their spouse wants to connect with the. I've seen these very same people leave the house, go to the corner bar/store/you-name-the-place to be 'alone' only to find them there, plugged in, tweeting away, etc, etc, etc I LOVE technology. I love working with technology. But I also know that I am a human being. A person who, by very definition, is a social being. I needed social interactions and contact--and, no, I'm not talking about the Social Graph kind of connections, I'm talking about those interactions which, *GASP* involve eye to eye contact and human contact. A recent study found that the number one complaint of kids is that they feel they have to compete with technology for their parents time and attention. The number one wish from high school kids? That there parents would turn off the computer/tv/cell phone at dinner. This, coming from high school kids. Shouldn't that tell you a whole helluva lot? So, do yourself a favor tomorrow. Plug into technology all day. Throw yourself into it. Be passionate about what you do. When you walk through the door to your family, turn it all off for 30 mins and be there with your loved ones. If you can manage to play Angry Birds, I'm sure you can handle being disconnected for 30 minutes. Make the time

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  • Dual monitor not working completely in 12.10 after upgrade

    - by Mark Baldridge
    At 12.04, dual monitors worked perfectly. After upgrading to 12.10, the primary monitor works, the second monitor only partly works. I am sure there is some difference between the releases that I have missed setting properly. System settings - Displays show both correctly as Acer 22" monitors at 1680x1050 (16:10). An icon on monitor 2 is present, but elongated; almost an artifact, since other icons on the primary screen are absent, but this one icon is there on th second monitor. Selecting the icons on both screens exist. Painting is weird on monitor 2. Launcher exists and works on both screens, but even with sticky edges off, the cursor stops at the left edge of monitor 2. Clicking on text editor on screen 2 launcer will launch gedit there. If I drag it, it leaves a trail of after images like repaint is failing. If I drive the cursor on the launcher, the help tags like "LibreOffice Writer" appear, but stay on screen unless I drag the active gedit window over them. Then part of the help bubbles are overwritten, leaving behind after images of the gedit window on screen. What is really fascinating is that the System settings - Displays is now ignoring monitor selection, after allowing it earlier. Just before this, the help popup which said "Select a monitor to change its properties; drag to rearrange its placement" actually let me do that. Maybe a trick of where I grab the edge of the monitor in the Displays setting. I just found a working handle. When I drag monitor 1 to the right of monitor 2, "Apply" and confirm, both monitors work normally (although the right monitor lets the cursor slide off the right edge onto the left edge of monitor 1 - which sounds correct). Painting of windows does not leave an after image. However, success is only temporary. The setting survives the reboot, but painting on the left monitor, now monitor 2, now replicates the issues from before. The after image of the gedit window and the small window for "Are you sure you want to close all programs and restart the computer?" are still on monitor 2 (on the left now), even though they are not real windows, nor do they have processes behind them. Curiously, in Displays, the "green" monitor on the left in the display window is matched by the right monitor color in the monitor upper left corner. Probably makes sense as the one on the right is now monitor 1. If I repeat the "drag the left monitor to the right of the right monitor on the "Displays" window, things are oriented properly, with no display artifacts as I drag windows around either screen. Also the description bubbles that pop up are overwritten on both screens, so none of those artifacts either. This goodness does not survive a reboot, however. Have not tried logging out and back in. All of this after positing that the motherboard VGA and HDMI ports could have been the issue. So, I installed an e-GeForce 7600 GT Dual DVI (I know the web thinks it is not DVI, but VGA, but the connectors are DVI). No change to the weird behavior. The good parts continue to work, the weirdness also works, and swapping monitor positions seems to cure the issue. So, is there a setting I have missed? Given "swapping" monitor 1 and 2 on the System Settings... - Displays makes it work, just not across boot, I suspect so.

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  • Pygame camera follow in a 2d tile game

    - by Pipyaddict
    import pygame, sys from pygame.locals import * pygame.init() size = width, height = 480,320 screen = pygame.display.set_mode(size) r = 0 bif = pygame.image.load("map5.png") pygame.display.set_caption("Pygame 2D RPG !") x,y=0,0 movex, movey=0,0 character="boy.png" player=pygame.image.load(character).convert_alpha() while True: for event in pygame.event.get(): if event.type == pygame.QUIT: pygame.quit() sys.exit() if event.type==KEYDOWN: if event.key==K_a: movex=-1 elif event.key==K_d: movex=+1 elif event.key==K_w: movey=-1 elif event.key==K_s: movey=+1 if event.type==KEYUP: if event.key==K_a: movex=0 elif event.key==K_d: movex=0 elif event.key==K_w: movey=0 elif event.key==K_s: movey=0 x+=movex y+=movey screen.fill((r,0,0)) screen.blit(bif,(0,0)) screen.blit(player,(x,y)) pygame.display.flip() Everything works fine except I was wondering how on earth I was going to be able to move the camera where the player goes sorry that I can't show you the map file as you can't add images to it. But Thanks for your time The map is here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/110087275/2d%20pygame/map5.png And finally the code is here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/110087275/2d%20pygame/2d_pygame.py Thanks again for your time and effort!!!!!

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  • Help with Algorithm chinese auction

    - by sam munkes
    Hi, i am designing a Chinese auction website. Tickets ($5, $10 & $20) are sold either individually, or via packages to receive discounts. There are various Ticket packages for example: 5-$5 tickets = receive 10% off 5-$10 tickets = receive 10% off 5-$20 tickets = receive 10% off 5-$5 tickets + 5-$10 tickets + 5-$20 tickets = receive 15% off When users add tickets to their cart, i need to figure out the cheapest package(s) to give them. the trick is that if a user adds 4-$5 tickets + 5-$10 tickets + 5-$20 tickets, it should still give him package #3 since that would be the cheapest for him. Any help in figuring out a algorithm to solve this, or any tips would be greatly appreciate it. thanks

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  • Algorithm to price bulk discounts

    - by sam munkes
    Hi, i am designing a Chinese auction website. Tickets ($5, $10 & $20) are sold either individually, or via packages to receive discounts. There are various Ticket packages for example: 5-$5 tickets = receive 10% off 5-$10 tickets = receive 10% off 5-$20 tickets = receive 10% off 5-$5 tickets + 5-$10 tickets + 5-$20 tickets = receive 15% off When users add tickets to their cart, i need to figure out the cheapest package(s) to give them. the trick is that if a user adds 4-$5 tickets + 5-$10 tickets + 5-$20 tickets, it should still give him package #4 since that would be the cheapest for him. Any help in figuring out a algorithm to solve this, or any tips would be greatly appreciate it. thanks

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  • UISplitViewController and complex view heirarchy

    - by Jasconius
    I'm doing an iPad tech demo and I'm running into a serious technical problem. I have an app concept that leverages UISplitViewController, but NOT as the primary controller for the entire app. The app flow could be described roughly as this: Home screen (UIViewController) List-Detail "Catalog" (UISplitViewController) Super Detail Screen (UIViewController but could conceivable also be a child of SplitView). The problem is in the flow between Home and Catalog. Once a UISplitViewController view is added to the UIWindow, it starts to throw hissy fits. The problem can be summarized at this: When a UISplitView generates a popover view, it appears to then be latched to its parent view. Upon removing the UISplitView from the UIWindow subviews, you will get a CoreGraphics exception and the view will fail to be removed. When adding other views (presumably in this case, the home screen to which you are returning), they do not autorotate, instead, the UISplitView, which has failed to be removed due to a CG exception, continues to respond to the rotation instead, causing horrible rendering bugs that can't be just "dealt with". At this point, adding any views, even re-adding the SplitView, causes a cascade of render bugs. I then tried simply to leave the SplitView ever present as the "bottom" view, and keeping adding and removing the Home Screen from on top of it, but this fails as SplitView dominates the Orientation change calls, and Home Screen will not rotate, even if you call [homeScreen becomeFirstResponder] You can't put SplitView into a hierarchy like UINavigationController, you will get an outright runtime error, so that option is off the table. Modals just look bad and are discourages anyway. My presumption at this moment is that the only proper way to deal with this problem is so somehow "disarm" UISplitViewController so that it can be removed from its parent view without throwing an unhandled exception, but I have no idea how. If you want to see an app that does exactly what I need to do, check out GILT Groupe in the iPad app store. They pulled it off, but they seem to have programmed an entire custom view transition set. Help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • How to Reuse Your Old Wi-Fi Router as a Network Switch

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    Just because your old Wi-Fi router has been replaced by a newer model doesn’t mean it needs to gather dust in the closet. Read on as we show you how to take an old and underpowered Wi-Fi router and turn it into a respectable network switch (saving your $20 in the process). Image by mmgallan. Why Do I Want To Do This? Wi-Fi technology has changed significantly in the last ten years but Ethernet-based networking has changed very little. As such, a Wi-Fi router with 2006-era guts is lagging significantly behind current Wi-Fi router technology, but the Ethernet networking component of the device is just as useful as ever; aside from potentially being only 100Mbs instead of 1000Mbs capable (which for 99% of home applications is irrelevant) Ethernet is Ethernet. What does this matter to you, the consumer? It means that even though your old router doesn’t hack it for your Wi-Fi needs any longer the device is still a perfectly serviceable (and high quality) network switch. When do you need a network switch? Any time you want to share an Ethernet cable among multiple devices, you need a switch. For example, let’s say you have a single Ethernet wall jack behind your entertainment center. Unfortunately you have four devices that you want to link to your local network via hardline including your smart HDTV, DVR, Xbox, and a little Raspberry Pi running XBMC. Instead of spending $20-30 to purchase a brand new switch of comparable build quality to your old Wi-Fi router it makes financial sense (and is environmentally friendly) to invest five minutes of your time tweaking the settings on the old router to turn it from a Wi-Fi access point and routing tool into a network switch–perfect for dropping behind your entertainment center so that your DVR, Xbox, and media center computer can all share an Ethernet connection. What Do I Need? For this tutorial you’ll need a few things, all of which you likely have readily on hand or are free for download. To follow the basic portion of the tutorial, you’ll need the following: 1 Wi-Fi router with Ethernet ports 1 Computer with Ethernet jack 1 Ethernet cable For the advanced tutorial you’ll need all of those things, plus: 1 copy of DD-WRT firmware for your Wi-Fi router We’re conducting the experiment with a Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi router. The WRT54 series is one of the best selling Wi-Fi router series of all time and there’s a good chance a significant number of readers have one (or more) of them stuffed in an office closet. Even if you don’t have one of the WRT54 series routers, however, the principles we’re outlining here apply to all Wi-Fi routers; as long as your router administration panel allows the necessary changes you can follow right along with us. A quick note on the difference between the basic and advanced versions of this tutorial before we proceed. Your typical Wi-Fi router has 5 Ethernet ports on the back: 1 labeled “Internet”, “WAN”, or a variation thereof and intended to be connected to your DSL/Cable modem, and 4 labeled 1-4 intended to connect Ethernet devices like computers, printers, and game consoles directly to the Wi-Fi router. When you convert a Wi-Fi router to a switch, in most situations, you’ll lose two port as the “Internet” port cannot be used as a normal switch port and one of the switch ports becomes the input port for the Ethernet cable linking the switch to the main network. This means, referencing the diagram above, you’d lose the WAN port and LAN port 1, but retain LAN ports 2, 3, and 4 for use. If you only need to switch for 2-3 devices this may be satisfactory. However, for those of you that would prefer a more traditional switch setup where there is a dedicated WAN port and the rest of the ports are accessible, you’ll need to flash a third-party router firmware like the powerful DD-WRT onto your device. Doing so opens up the router to a greater degree of modification and allows you to assign the previously reserved WAN port to the switch, thus opening up LAN ports 1-4. Even if you don’t intend to use that extra port, DD-WRT offers you so many more options that it’s worth the extra few steps. Preparing Your Router for Life as a Switch Before we jump right in to shutting down the Wi-Fi functionality and repurposing your device as a network switch, there are a few important prep steps to attend to. First, you want to reset the router (if you just flashed a new firmware to your router, skip this step). Following the reset procedures for your particular router or go with what is known as the “Peacock Method” wherein you hold down the reset button for thirty seconds, unplug the router and wait (while still holding the reset button) for thirty seconds, and then plug it in while, again, continuing to hold down the rest button. Over the life of a router there are a variety of changes made, big and small, so it’s best to wipe them all back to the factory default before repurposing the router as a switch. Second, after resetting, we need to change the IP address of the device on the local network to an address which does not directly conflict with the new router. The typical default IP address for a home router is 192.168.1.1; if you ever need to get back into the administration panel of the router-turned-switch to check on things or make changes it will be a real hassle if the IP address of the device conflicts with the new home router. The simplest way to deal with this is to assign an address close to the actual router address but outside the range of addresses that your router will assign via the DHCP client; a good pick then is 192.168.1.2. Once the router is reset (or re-flashed) and has been assigned a new IP address, it’s time to configure it as a switch. Basic Router to Switch Configuration If you don’t want to (or need to) flash new firmware onto your device to open up that extra port, this is the section of the tutorial for you: we’ll cover how to take a stock router, our previously mentioned WRT54 series Linksys, and convert it to a switch. Hook the Wi-Fi router up to the network via one of the LAN ports (consider the WAN port as good as dead from this point forward, unless you start using the router in its traditional function again or later flash a more advanced firmware to the device, the port is officially retired at this point). Open the administration control panel via  web browser on a connected computer. Before we get started two things: first,  anything we don’t explicitly instruct you to change should be left in the default factory-reset setting as you find it, and two, change the settings in the order we list them as some settings can’t be changed after certain features are disabled. To start, let’s navigate to Setup ->Basic Setup. Here you need to change the following things: Local IP Address: [different than the primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.2] Subnet Mask: [same as the primary router, e.g. 255.255.255.0] DHCP Server: Disable Save with the “Save Settings” button and then navigate to Setup -> Advanced Routing: Operating Mode: Router This particular setting is very counterintuitive. The “Operating Mode” toggle tells the device whether or not it should enable the Network Address Translation (NAT)  feature. Because we’re turning a smart piece of networking hardware into a relatively dumb one, we don’t need this feature so we switch from Gateway mode (NAT on) to Router mode (NAT off). Our next stop is Wireless -> Basic Wireless Settings: Wireless SSID Broadcast: Disable Wireless Network Mode: Disabled After disabling the wireless we’re going to, again, do something counterintuitive. Navigate to Wireless -> Wireless Security and set the following parameters: Security Mode: WPA2 Personal WPA Algorithms: TKIP+AES WPA Shared Key: [select some random string of letters, numbers, and symbols like JF#d$di!Hdgio890] Now you may be asking yourself, why on Earth are we setting a rather secure Wi-Fi configuration on a Wi-Fi router we’re not going to use as a Wi-Fi node? On the off chance that something strange happens after, say, a power outage when your router-turned-switch cycles on and off a bunch of times and the Wi-Fi functionality is activated we don’t want to be running the Wi-Fi node wide open and granting unfettered access to your network. While the chances of this are next-to-nonexistent, it takes only a few seconds to apply the security measure so there’s little reason not to. Save your changes and navigate to Security ->Firewall. Uncheck everything but Filter Multicast Firewall Protect: Disable At this point you can save your changes again, review the changes you’ve made to ensure they all stuck, and then deploy your “new” switch wherever it is needed. Advanced Router to Switch Configuration For the advanced configuration, you’ll need a copy of DD-WRT installed on your router. Although doing so is an extra few steps, it gives you a lot more control over the process and liberates an extra port on the device. Hook the Wi-Fi router up to the network via one of the LAN ports (later you can switch the cable to the WAN port). Open the administration control panel via web browser on the connected computer. Navigate to the Setup -> Basic Setup tab to get started. In the Basic Setup tab, ensure the following settings are adjusted. The setting changes are not optional and are required to turn the Wi-Fi router into a switch. WAN Connection Type: Disabled Local IP Address: [different than the primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.2] Subnet Mask: [same as the primary router, e.g. 255.255.255.0] DHCP Server: Disable In addition to disabling the DHCP server, also uncheck all the DNSMasq boxes as the bottom of the DHCP sub-menu. If you want to activate the extra port (and why wouldn’t you), in the WAN port section: Assign WAN Port to Switch [X] At this point the router has become a switch and you have access to the WAN port so the LAN ports are all free. Since we’re already in the control panel, however, we might as well flip a few optional toggles that further lock down the switch and prevent something odd from happening. The optional settings are arranged via the menu you find them in. Remember to save your settings with the save button before moving onto a new tab. While still in the Setup -> Basic Setup menu, change the following: Gateway/Local DNS : [IP address of primary router, e.g. 192.168.1.1] NTP Client : Disable The next step is to turn off the radio completely (which not only kills the Wi-Fi but actually powers the physical radio chip off). Navigate to Wireless -> Advanced Settings -> Radio Time Restrictions: Radio Scheduling: Enable Select “Always Off” There’s no need to create a potential security problem by leaving the Wi-Fi radio on, the above toggle turns it completely off. Under Services -> Services: DNSMasq : Disable ttraff Daemon : Disable Under the Security -> Firewall tab, uncheck every box except “Filter Multicast”, as seen in the screenshot above, and then disable SPI Firewall. Once you’re done here save and move on to the Administration tab. Under Administration -> Management:  Info Site Password Protection : Enable Info Site MAC Masking : Disable CRON : Disable 802.1x : Disable Routing : Disable After this final round of tweaks, save and then apply your settings. Your router has now been, strategically, dumbed down enough to plod along as a very dependable little switch. Time to stuff it behind your desk or entertainment center and streamline your cabling.     

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  • Unable to hide TabBar on sub view in iphone

    - by iPhoneDev
    Hello Everyone, My app flow requires Navigation and TabBar controller. So I decided to use TabBar template. Since my first page is login which do not require TabBar, I used presentModelViewController to show Login screen which have Navigation bar if user Navigate to Forgot password. LoginView *rootView = [[[LoginView alloc] init] autorelease]; navigationController= [[[UINavigationController alloc] initWithRootViewController:rootView] autorelease]; [tabBarController presentModalViewController:navigationController animated:FALSE]; Ones the user login I dismiss view controller and show TabBar with 5 Tab and Each Tab contain TabaleView. User select any row and navigate to sub view. The issue is, on sub view I dont need tab bar. (TabBar is needed ONLY on dashboard). If I hide tabBar a white space remain there. Is there any workaround to solve this issue? Please find the screen shot Firt Screen ( presentModelViewController): Second Screen: Issue on sub view:

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  • Design: an array of "enemy" objects for game AI

    - by Meko
    Hi..I made shoot em up like game.But I have only one ememy which fallows me on screen.But I want to make lots of enemys like each 10 second they will across on screen together 5 or 10 enemys. ArrayList<Enemies> enemy = new ArrayList<Enemies>(); for (Enemies e : enemy) { e.draw(g); } is it good creating array list and then showing on screen? And Do I have to make some planing movements thoose enemies in my code ? I want that they vill appear not on same pozition.Like First 5 enemies will come top of screen then the other 5 or 10 enemies will come from left side.. so on.What is best solution for this?

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  • Using UIScreen to drive a VGA display - doesn't seem to show the UIWindow?

    - by Peter Hajas
    HI there, I'm trying to use UIScreen to drive a separate screen with the VGA dongle on my iPad. Here's what I've got in my root view controller's viewDidLoad: //Code to detect if an external display is connected to the iPad. NSLog(@"Number of screens: %d", [[UIScreen screens]count]); //Now, if there's an external screen, we need to find its modes, itereate through them and find the highest one. Once we have that mode, break out, and set the UIWindow. if([[UIScreen screens]count] > 1) //if there are more than 1 screens connected to the device { CGSize max; UIScreenMode *maxScreenMode; for(int i = 0; i < [[[[UIScreen screens] objectAtIndex:1] availableModes]count]; i++) { UIScreenMode *current = [[[[UIScreen screens]objectAtIndex:1]availableModes]objectAtIndex:i]; if(current.size.width > max.width); { max = current.size; maxScreenMode = current; } } //Now we have the highest mode. Turn the external display to use that mode. UIScreen *external = [[UIScreen screens] objectAtIndex:1]; external.currentMode = maxScreenMode; //Boom! Now the external display is set to the proper mode. We need to now set the screen of a new UIWindow to the external screen external_disp = [externalDisplay alloc]; external_disp.drawImage = drawViewController.drawImage; UIWindow *newwindow = [UIWindow alloc]; [newwindow addSubview:external_disp.view]; newwindow.screen = external; }

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