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• No video signal and server shuts down

  - by Ilya

  I have a brand new server. The motherboard is Intel S2600CP4, two 8-core Intel E5-2600 processors. RAM is 8 DIMM slots of 8 GB each (KVR1600D3D4R11SK4/32GI, I installed them into the blue slots), Power supply is 1050W Corsair. Most of the time the server won't start up - the fans are spinning, but I don't have video signal. And it keeps restarting on its own every 3 mins. But maybe after 30 mins it will eventually load and show something on the screen. I even was able to install ESXi 5.0 (vSphere) on it. It recognizes both CPUs and all of the 64GB of RAM. But even then it worked only for around 5 hours and then restarted on its own. What's the problem? That's a very expensive peace of hardware and I can't afford purchasing a new motherboard/CPU. By the way, on the front panel the "System Status" LED is constantly amber (not blinking), even when the server started successfully. And also in the BIOS I can see lots of "processor 01 unable to apply microcode update 8160" fatal errors. Please help me with issue, I will really appreciate this!

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• PC can't detect second RAM installed

  - by kulwinder

  I have PC with 512 MB RAM installed (motherboard manufacture MICRO STAR, chipset P4M800), pc was running very slow so I decided to upgrade the ram. I installed CPU-Z and check the ram installed on the machine, also had a look at the stick installed. 512 MB PC 3200 400 MHz DDR but my mother supports 200 MHz and it was working ok. So I bought 2GB which I checked on manual that it support upto 2 GB Ram. So I installed 2GB PC 3200 400 MHz same as the old one, I plugged in both eventhough motherboard only support upto 2 GB but system spec only shows 512 (deducts 64 MB shared vga memory) I checked on CPU-Z, it detects both, slot 1 512 MB, slot 2 2048 MB, comparing screen for both slots, both the same, volt 2.5, frequency 166 MHz and 200MHz, only difference on those is 2gb ram shows under timings table 133MHz 166 MHz and 200MHz but 512 MB shows only 166MHz and 200MHz. I checked on Google and can't seems to figure out whats wrong with it. If I only plug in 2GB. Pc doesn't boot up like ram not working.With only 512 MB plugged in seems ok. Please help.

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• Troubleshooting: Monitor never turns on, system fans running, DVD-ROM does not open.

  - by Wesley

  Hi all, Here are my specs beforehand: ECS P4VXASD2+ (V5.0) motherboard FSB 533MHz Intel Pentium 4 2.40A GHz Prescott Socket 478 2x 256MB PC2100 DDR RAM, 2x 256MB PC133 SDRAM CoolMax 350W PSU DVD-ROM - will edit with brand & model 128MB ATi Radeon 9800 Pro AGP No hard drive So, I just put those parts together today and I tried to power it up, with the monitor connected to the Radeon 9800 in the AGP slot (mobo does not have VGA port). After turning it on, the CPU fan, graphics fan and system fan go on. However, the monitor remains in standby mode, despite being plugged in. Also, after pushing the button on the DVD-ROM drive, it does not open. I've used the DVD-ROM drive before with absolutely no issues. The graphics card was slightly buggy when I put it on another machine, which was left outside in winter weather for 3 months. (Still that computer's integrated graphics worked fine.) CMOS battery was replaced and jumpers are all set correctly. Now, I'm wondering whether the motherboard, CPU, PSU or GPU is the problem. What can I do to test which part is the problem? Just to clarify, I don't have a hard drive, so I usually boot Ubuntu from the disc drive. Anyways, thanks in advance!

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• Desktop PC does not power up on power button

  - by hIpPy

  When I press the power button on my desktop, it does not power up completely. Before I press the power button, I see lights on the motherboard. Everything is normal. On power button press, the fans on the cpu, graphics card and motherboard start to spin a little for a second or two and then they stop. No beeps during this process. It has been doing this for a while now but it used to start up after some trials. Once it starts up, I have NO issues at all like random shutdowns so it is not an issue with OS. I'm just guessing here but it seems as if the PSU (Antec TP2-550ATX) is dying out and does not have enough power now - just a guess. It's an old desktop assembled in 2005 but I have maintained it well. Any ideas? Please help. Thanks. Below is the complete configuration. DFI LAN-Party UT NF4 Ultra-D 6/23 {6.70}, Evercool EC-VC-RE 41/47C, AMD Opteron 170 2.0GHz {1.3.2.16} 1.312V 36/41C, ThermalRight SI-120, Panaflo 120×38mm OCZ Platinum 2×1GB 200MHz 2.66V 3-3-2-7 1T XFX 7800GTX 256MB 475/1250MHz {91.31}, Zalman VF900 Cu led 41/56C WD Caviar 320GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA 3Gb/s Antec TP2-550ATX Antec P180 WinXP sp2 KB896256 Logitech MX310 Razer Mantis Speed BenQ FP91G+ 19" LCD 8ms DVI Creative Audigy2 ZS {4.42} BenQ DW1640 Logitech z-5300e 5.1 280W Legend: Driver versions: {} User settings: [] Voltage: V Wattage: W Temperature: C (Celsius) min/max

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• How to set up RAID-0 first time on new PC?

  - by jasondavis

  I have built basic PC's in the past but have never used a RAID array at all. SO now I am buying parts to build my new PC, it will be an intel i7 processor. My motherboard will have RAID support which I will use instead of an aftermarket raid controller for now. Also I plan to use 2 SSD drives in RAID-0 for my windows 7 OS. (Please note that I am aware of the issues with doing this, including lack of TRIM support when using RAID with SSD drives. I am OK with it not working as I can just re[place the drives in a year or so or wheneer they become more sluggish). SO here is my question part. If I assemble the motherboard, PSU, processor, RAM, vidm card, etc and then go to turn the PC on, it will have the 2 SSD drives hooked up. so I assume I will then soon the BIOS screen before I install windows? How to I go about making the 2 drives work in RAID-0 at this point? I do the raid part before installing my OS right? Please help with the steps involved from assembling the parts of the PC and then turning it on, to the part of getting the RAID-0 set up between the 2 drives and then installing my windows 7 OS from a Optical drive? Please help, all advice, instructions, tips appreciated as long as on topic. I do not need to be told that this is a bad idea as far as if 1 drive fails I losse it all, I plan on having a disk IMAGE to be able to restore my OS and software to a new set of drives at anytime needed in the event of drive failure. Same goes for lack of TRIM support. Thanks for reading and help =)

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• Recommend a free temperature-monitoring utility for cores + video card, on Vista?

  - by smci

  Looking for your recommendations for a free temperature-monitoring utility, for my PC (Core 2) and graphics card for Vista. (Question reposted with the hyperlinks now I have 10 reputation). I don't want all the geeky details, I don't overclock, I don't see the need to mess with my fan speeds or motherboard settings, I just want something fairly basic to help with basic troubleshooting of intermittent overheats on video card and/or mobo: must run on Windows Vista (yes, don't laugh). ideally displays temperature when minimized to toolbar, and/or: automatically alerts me when temperature on either core or the video card exceeds a threshold ideally measures temperature of video card and system as well, not just the cores. HDD temperature is not necessary I think. logging is nice, graphs are also nice portability to Linux and Mac is nice Apparently Everest is the best paid option, but I'm not prepared to spend $40. I found the following free options, but no head-to-head at-a-glance comparison: CoreTemp (only does cores, not video card?) Open Hardware Monitor (nice graphs, displays when minimized to toolbar, no alerts) RealTemp (has alerts, works minimized, lightweight install) HWMonitor (no alerts, CNET: "[free version is] simple but effective") from CPUID CPUCool (not free: 21-day trialware, then $18) SpeedFan from Almico (too geeky, detail overload; CNET: "most users won't be able to make head or tail of the data this utility provides") Motherboard Monitor (CNET: not recommended, requires expert knowledge of your mobo, dangerous) Intel Thermal Analysis Tool (only does cores, not video card? has logging) Useful discussions I found: hardwarecanucks.com , superuser.com 1, 2 , forums.techarena.in (Update: I downloaded Real Temp 3.60 and it meets all my needs, the customizable alert temperature is great. Open Hardware Monitor seems to be the other one that mostly meets my needs, except no alerts; but it is portable. I tried SpeedFan but the interface is very cluttered, too much unnecessary detail (needs a Basic/Advanced mode and a revamp of the interface.) The answer to my underlying issue is nVidia Geforce LE 7500 video card which runs very hot.)

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• Is it possible for a faulty processor to cause audio static/noise?

  - by Tom

  I have a Core 2 Extreme processor I received from a friend and have set up an XBMC box using it. However, I constantly get audio static whenever playing any music or videos. Here is a video of the sound: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqKQkxYRVA4 I have tried replacing everything short of the case and the processor, including cables, audio interfaces, operating systems, ram, etc, leading me to think it might be either the case shorting out the motherboards I have tried or a faulty processor. Is it possible for a faulty processor to cause audio static/noise? Any feedback would be appreciated. Edit - Here's a list of things I have tried: Reinstalling OS Installing/upgrading/repairing PulseAudio/Alsa Installing alternate OSes, straight Ubuntu, Lubuntu, Xubuntu, Arch, Mint, Windows 7 Switching audio from the external card to internal Optical, audio out through HDMI, audio out through headphones Different ports on receiver (my main desktop sounds fine on the same sound system) Different optical cables Unplugging everything unnecessary from the motherboard (1 HD, 1 Stick of Ram, 1 Keyboard) Swapping out ram Swapping out the motherboard Replacing the Graphics Card (was replaced due to fan being noisy, not specifically for this problem) Different harddrives Swapping power supply Disabling onboard audio Switching Power Cable Plugging in through surge protector Plugging into different outlet on separate circuit

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• Desktop PC does not power up on power button

  - by hIpPy

  When I press the power button on my desktop, it does not power up completely. Before I press the power button, I see lights on the motherboard. Everything is normal. On power button press, the fans on the cpu, graphics card and motherboard start to spin a little for a second or two and then they stop. No beeps during this process. It has been doing this for a while now but it used to start up after some trials. Once it starts up, I have NO issues at all like random shutdowns so it is not an issue with OS. Update: I left the desktop off for a few days and it started. I'm just guessing here but it seems as if the PSU (Antec TP2-550ATX) is dying out and does not have enough power now - just a guess. It's an old desktop assembled in 2005 but I have maintained it well. Update: I always keep the desktop running and I never shut it down. During updates or manual restarts, it powers up without issues. I wonder if this sheds lights on the issue. Any idea how I can narrow down the issue? ex: if I can find if the PSU is dying etc. I'd really like to fix the issue. Please help. Thanks. Below is the complete configuration. DFI LAN-Party UT NF4 Ultra-D 6/23 {6.70}, Evercool EC-VC-RE 41/47C, AMD Opteron 170 2.0GHz {1.3.2.16} 1.312V 36/41C, ThermalRight SI-120, Panaflo 120×38mm OCZ Platinum 2×1GB 200MHz 2.66V 3-3-2-7 1T XFX 7800GTX 256MB 475/1250MHz {91.31}, Zalman VF900 Cu led 41/56C WD Caviar 320GB 7200RPM 16MB SATA 3Gb/s Antec TP2-550ATX Antec P180 WinXP sp3 Logitech MX310 Razer Mantis Speed BenQ FP91G+ 19" LCD 8ms DVI Creative Audigy2 ZS {4.42} BenQ DW1640 Logitech z-5300e 5.1 280W Legend: Driver versions: {} User settings: [] Voltage: V Wattage: W Temperature: C (Celsius) min/max

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• ubuntu dmidecode is not functioning properly

  - by Alaa Alomari

  dmidecode is giving irrelevant and conflicted results. it shows that i have two slots while the correct is 8 (the board is Tyan S5350.) uname -a Linux synd01 3.0.0-16-server #29-Ubuntu SMP Tue Feb 14 13:08:12 UTC 2012 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux root@synd01:/home/badmin# dmidecode -t 16 dmidecode 2.9 SMBIOS 2.33 present. Handle 0x0011, DMI type 16, 15 bytes Physical Memory Array Location: System Board Or Motherboard Use: System Memory Error Correction Type: None Maximum Capacity: 4 GB Error Information Handle: Not Provided Number Of Devices: 2 while root@synd01:/home/badmin# dmidecode -t 17 | grep Size Size: No Module Installed Size: No Module Installed Size: 1024 MB Size: 1024 MB Size: No Module Installed Size: No Module Installed Size: 1024 MB Size: 1024 MB also lshw shows: *-memory description: System Memory physical id: 11 slot: System board or motherboard size: 4GiB *-bank:0 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) [empty] physical id: 0 slot: J3B1 clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) *-bank:1 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) [empty] physical id: 1 slot: J3B3 clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) *-bank:2 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) physical id: 2 slot: J2B2 size: 1GiB width: 64 bits clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) *-bank:3 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) physical id: 3 slot: J2B4 size: 1GiB width: 64 bits clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) *-bank:4 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) [empty] physical id: 4 slot: J3B2 clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) *-bank:5 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) [empty] physical id: 5 slot: J2B1 clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) *-bank:6 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) physical id: 6 slot: J2B3 size: 1GiB width: 64 bits clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) *-bank:7 description: DIMM DDR Synchronous 166 MHz (6.0 ns) physical id: 7 slot: J1B1 size: 1GiB width: 64 bits clock: 166MHz (6.0ns) what might cause this conflict and how can i fix it? Thanks

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• Windows Server 2008 - inexplicable system time jumps/glitches/inaccuracies

  - by Nathan Ridley

  I'm running a production web server on Windows Server 2008. On this server I have a database which logs certain user actions, but every now and again I inexplicably get database entries which, according to the record ID and the records immediately before and after, have the wrong time logged against them (7 days+ too old). For example, record ID 1001 will be for Dec 7, 11pm, 1002 will be for Dec 7, 11:01pm, then 1003 will be for Nov 28, 1:38am, then the next will be back on track again. The problem seems to occur in random records (or 2-3 records in a row) and crops up once every few days. This is absolutely baffling because there is only one place in the application that assigns this date/time value and it's simply the system UTC date. I have been synchronizing the system time to time-a.nist.gov (which I read in another article was a bit more reliable than the default time.windows.com) and it seems to occasionally get out of time anyway (3-4 minutes), but I'm speculating that occasionally the time server has a temporary glitch where the date changes to a drastically wrong value for a short space of time, then changes back. Either that, or the motherboard clock battery is screwed and the reason the time momentarily changes is that the motherboard loses the time and then the time synchronization puts it back again. Could either of my suspicions be right? Should I turn off time synchronization for a production server? Assigning dates to an event log where the dates are up to 2 weeks prior to the actual date is a severe problem I can't have when the next version of my application is released. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

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• Collect temperature and fan speed with munin from Windows 7 PC?

  - by nfm

  Hi, I'm quite fond of munin and using it also at home to monitor my PCs. What was super-duper easy under Linux is pretty much unsolvable for me under Windows: I'd like to monitor CPU and Motherboard temperatures as well as fan speed. On Linux I'm using lm-sensors and the plugin for munin was basically there. I access already some information from my Windows machine via SNMP (disk space, CPU usage, memory usage); the graphs are simple as is the information exposed via SNMP, but they do their job. But when it comes to temperature and fan speed I'm running against a wall. My research so far resulted in that Windows does not by default provide out of the box ability to retrieve temperature/fan speed data. Third party applications are necessary which have know-how how to communicate with the Motherboard chips. The best I cam up with is that SpeedFan exposes a shared memory interface and there exists a library which hooks into Windows SNMP facility and bridges over to SpeedFans shared memory interface; it's called SFSNMP (site currently down). Unfortunately the library doesn't work, there's a bug report at SpeedFan open about it, but it's currently not moving (although the SFSNMP author is active there) . So, unless that's going to work like anytime soon, are there any alternatives? I'm not found of buying any software to get that feature, given that I take it as granted that my system exposes me the information to properly monitor it, but anyway don't just not answer because of this.

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• Windows 7 64 bit Installation freezes after a while durig the setup

  - by vinz243

  I have a windows 7 32 bits on my computer. Because i have 5 gb of ram (kingston) on my asus M2N motherboard and only 3 were able to be used, I bought W7 x64 and install it. It loads the wizard, but after a while, it freezes, and I have to force reboot. It first crashed while unzipping w7 files, but if I wait a while on the terms page for example, it can crash before, which make me think that it is a matter of time. I remember I had the same issue while booting on Ubuntu x64, it crashed randomly but not load completely. No bip or other messages. Configuration: Software OS (before) W7 x86 Pro New OS : W7 x64 Pro Antivirus : avast (bios verification ?) BIOS 03/27/2008 - v08.00.12 Hardware : Motherboard : Asus M2N Processor : AMD Athlon 64 dualcore @ 2.6 GHZ Memory : 5120 MB ((2 + 2) + (1)) NOTES : I ran a memory test using openSUSE cd, though i have not finished it, it ran. EDIT: I tried not to run the setup but wait, and i get the BSOD : A problem... TL;DW IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL If it is.. TL;DW ***STOP: 0x0000000A (0x0000000000000000,0x0000000000000002, 0x0000000000000001, 0xFFFFF8001A49ED1F)

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• I can't get my PC to start up by a normal way.

  - by ssice

  I couldn't write a more accurate title. I am just unable to start the computer by pressing the Power On button. I checked the Power Supply and it seems to give good voltage values in every pin. And this is not a BIOS malfunction because of bad overclocking or anything that may come to your mind. And I will tell you why. It happens that EPS (or any ATX-based) power supply has the ability to be powered-on by the Motherboard by jumping the 13th pin of the 24-pin-ATX-connector to COM/GND. I did it, after pushing the power on button (without any visual response) and, pwhaa! The machine turned on. I was able to read (and even write, if I wanted) BIOS values and then start any OS installed. Machine starts, so it's not any kind of misconfiguration. It seems some hardware related. I am able to power the machine on only if I already pushed the power on button. Though pushing it without jumping the 13th pin to ground for a second does not power the machine. Of course, jumping the pin without pushing the power on button does not tell the motherboard anything, so the computer would not start up either. It's as if the logic that connects the power button with the 13th pin derivation to GND was unable to be activated. What can be the issue? How can I solve it? My configuration is as follows: CPU: AMD Phenom 9850 X4 Black Edition MB: ASUS Formula II AM2 RAM: 2x2GB Corsair Dominator 5-5-5-15 2T @ 1066MHz DDR2 Tested also with only 1 module GPU: 2x XFX nVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT XxX Alpha Dog Edition @ Core: 540Mhz [SLi] Power Supply: Xilence 700W (ATX 12V 2.3 / EPS 12V 2.92 compatible) PS: I know the machine is like 2 years old. I hardly use it now, but my parents do.

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• How to verify power provided to processors is clean

  - by GregC

  Once in a blue moon, I am seeing a blue screen of death on a shiny new Dell R7610 with a single 1100 Watt Dell-provided power supply on a beefy UPS. BCode is 101 (A clock interrupt was not received...), which some say is caused by under-volting a CPU. Naturally, I would have to contact Dell support, and their natural reaction would be to replace a motherboard, a power supply, or CPU, or a mixture of the above components. In synthetic benchmarks, system memory and CPU, as well as graphics memory and CPU perform admirably, staying up for hours and days. My questions are: Is power supply good enough for the application? Does it provide clean enough power to VRMs on the motherboard? Are VRMs good enough for dual Xeon E5-2665? Does C-states logic work correctly? Is there sufficient current provided to PCIe peripherals, such as disk controllers? P.S. Recently, I've gone through the ordeal with HP. They were nice and professional about it, but root cause was not established, and the HP machine still is less than 100%, giving me a blue screen of death once in a couple of months. Here's what quick web-searching turns up: http://www.sevenforums.com/bsod-help-support/35427-win-7-clock-interrupt-bsod-101-error.html#post356791 It appears Dell has addressed the above issue by clocking PCIe bus down to 5GT/sec in A03 BIOS. My disk controllers support PCIe 3.0, meaning that I would have to re-validate stability. Early testing shows improvements. Further testing shows significant decrease in performance on each of the x16 slots with Dell R7610 with A03 BIOS. But now it's running stable. HP machine has received a microcode update in September 2013 SUM (July BIOS) that makes it stable.

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• CPU temperatures high on new build after gaming

  - by Reznor

  My friend had a problem with his computer a while back. His games were crashing, even within the menus. He was stumped as to what the problem was, so I posted on here requesting help. He found out the day later, when his computer would start up but wouldn't display anything on the screen. His video card must have came screwed up. So, he got a replacement. Now, there's a new problem. His temperatures, which were acceptable before, are now insanely high. His GPU temperature runs 70-80c, which is understandable considering he's running his games maxed out, but the real problem here is his processor and motherboard temperatures. All four of his cores are running at 88-90c after coming out of a game. His motherboard temperature was also 70c at one point. In terms of cooling, his case should definitely be adequate. He has an Antec Twelve Hundred. He's using stock fans. The cable management in his case is very good; better than average. He's using the stock heatsink with the processor too, but note, it was fine before the replacement, so it isn't like there's some inherent problem. He has checked the case too. Everything's fine! No cables in the way. The heatsink is seated properly. He turned his case fans up to high, as well, but the temperatures are persisting. Could the processor be overheating due to running games maxed out? Any ideas?

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• Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

  - by Jeff M

  I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

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• Any dangers in using DDR memory with a higher frequency than the FSB?

  - by raw_noob

  I'm looking to upgrade memory in an older motherboard. The processor is an AMD Sempron 2500+ with a maximum speed of 333/166MHz. The motherboard is an MSI MS-7061 (KV3M-V), which accepts up to 2Gb of DDR memory maximum PC2700 in 2 slots and has a maximum FSB of 333MHz. The board does not have dual-channel support. Existing memory includes a stick of 512Mb PC3200, which seems to be running OK (presumably at PC2700) but is rated 200MHz, which is below the FSB speed. The other stick is 256Mb PC2100/133MHz, again below the FSB speed. (All figures from CPU-Z.) I have a chance to acquire a single used stick of PC3200/400MHz memory very cheaply. Crucial's system scanner seems to suggest that this will be OK with my system, but other sites have suggested that running memory with a higher frequency than the FSB can cause instability. Is this true? Would I be better waiting until I can buy the correct PC2700/333MHz stick? I'm assuming that the mixed memory I have at present is running as 768Mb at 133MHz. Is this a reasonable assumption? If so, would you expect the performance differences between 768Mb/133MHz and 1Gb/333MHz to be very noticeable? If I install the new 1Gb/400 or 333MHz stick in slot 1, am I right in thinking that adding back the existing 512Mb/200MHz stick in slot 2 would pull the whole 1.5Gb system memory speed down to 200MHz? If so, which would be better - 1.5Gb/200MHz, or the single 1Gb stick at the full 333MHz that the FSB permits? Is more headroom more important than extra speed? Any help - or even opinions - gratefully received. I can't find reliable information, and I can't afford to make expensive mistakes.

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• USB question (how durable is it, how should I workaround this)

  - by Shiki

  The plot is quite simple. Got a Razer mouse. If I plug it in, it works. After a shutdown/hibernation, I have to replug it entirely at the back of the PC. (It works in my laptop even after severel shutdown, etc, so yes I guess it's my motherboard.. but it still got 2 years of warranty and it comes with quad SLI, its not an old motherboard at all. (MSI P7N SLI FI (bought it after a hungarian guy's recommendation)). So. I only could come up with one "solution". Get 3 USB cable (you know, USB-USB). If its possible the shortest ones (don't know if the responsibility/anything will worsen), AND replug only the middle+closest to the USB port junction, since those are replaceable. What do you think? Any other idea? (BIOS is updated, mouse driver ... doesn't really matter, the mouse won't even blink a bit after this happens. It lights up and goes totally dead.)

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• Unusable network, packet losses between router and NIC

  - by KáGé

  I have this setup: Gigabyte P35-DS3P motherboard Asus NX1101 PCI network card (the one on the motherboard got fried a few years ago by a power surge) Asus RT-N16 router Windows 7 x64 I think the other specs are irrelevant here, but I'll post them if you say so. Until a week ago everything was fine, but then my network became unusable: websites start loading but timeout before anything would come through (true for the web interface of the router as well), I can't reach the computer from my notebook and Windows' ping utility measures a ~50% packet loss between the computer and the router. Pinging localhost is good. The router works completely fine when wired to my notebook. I also tested different ports on the router, different cables, different router and connecting directly to the modem, but it's still the same. Sometimes it works for a few minutes right after turning on the machine, but then it becomes crap again, but mostly it's useless from the start. I've tried updating the firmware on the router, updating the driver for the network card (after which I started getting BSoDs in every 15 minutes), reinstalling Windows, swapping to Fedora 15 but none of them changed anything. Does this mean that the network card is dying, or could it be something else? If it's the card, what model do you recommend as a replacement? (Could be PCI or PCI-Ex x1) Thanks for your help.

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• Computer keeps restarting [closed]

  - by Joris

  I have a strange problem with my desktop pc, when I start it, it just restarts immediately, it displays the bios/motherboard logo and then restarts. I can't access the bios to edit settings because it restarts to fast. Then I tried different things to fix it with mixed success. (I also tried to reset the bios without success) I noticed that a capacity from the graphics card was broken (it looked exploded) so I ordered a new graphics card & plugged it in the computer. It didn't change much, still the same problem. Then I unplugged everything that's not necessary and put only 1Gig RAM in the motherboard (usually it has 4 x 1Gig RAM) and the computer started, then I putted another gig of RAM and the computer still started. (starting=booting windows) When I putted in the 3th RAM it didn't boot anymore (again restarting all the time) so I removed this 3th gig of RAM and this is where it gets weird. I expected the computer to boot again because it is exactly the same configuration as before - which worked - but the computer didn't want to start. It just gave the same problem as before (restarting all the time.. ) Anyone an idea what might be wrong?

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• How to make a Windows Vista boot / recovery cd from a running system without using an original CD / DVD

  - by Giorgio

  I have just repaired a friends computer (replaced motherboard) and now I am trying to repair the Windows (Windows Vista) partitions. Unfortunately, probably due to the fact that he tried to start it several times after the old motherboard had stopped working (no signal on video) now the partition table or the file systems (or both?) appear to be damaged. I managed to boot Windows a couple of times but could not complete the boot. I tried to repair the partition table and file systems using Linux RIP (booting from USB stick) but the Linux utilities say that the file system is damaged and I should run chkdsk /f from Windows. So I now need a Windows boot CD from which I can boot and run chkdsk or any other Windows utilities that can repair the file system. Is there an easy way to create such a CD? Or can I download it for free somewhere? All the links to Windows Vista boot / repair CD's I have found on the internet refer to non-free stuff. Any hint? EDIT I have a working laptop with Windows Vista installed. So one solution would be to make a bootable CD or USB from it so that I can boot the desktop and run the repair utilities. However, I do not have the Windows Vista installation DVD, because both computers were bought with Windows pre-installed.

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• Upgrade to Q9550 or i7 920 on a budget?

  - by evan

  I'm planning to upgrade my computer and torn between maxing out the system I have or investing in the X58 architecture. I'm currently using a E6600 Core 2 Duo with 4GB of RAM (800mhz) on an Asus PK5-E motherboard which I built two years ago. My original plan was that one day I'd upgrade machine to 8GB (1066mhz, the max the PK5-E allows) and to the Core 2 QuadQ9550 to give the machine a good four years of life. However, that was before the i7 came out. I use my computer mainly for software development , which I do inside Virtual Machines, and the i7 seems ideal for that because it no longer is limited by the speed of the FSB? And when I looked into it, getting 8GB DDR3 RAM isn't much more expensive than the 8GB of DDR2 and the i7 920 is comparable in price to the Q9550, which doesn't make much sense to me? So the question is it worth swapping the motherboard out for around $250 and upgrading all three components or using that money on SSD or 10rpm drive for the existing system's OS/Apps/Virtual Machine drive? Or just put the $250 towards a completely new machine in a year or two? Would the i7 really give that much of boost compared to the Q9550 for what I'd be using it for? Thanks in advance for your input!!!

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• CD Drive not discovered

  - by user1009073

  I have a self built computer. it uses a P6T Deluxe motherboard, which has both SATA and IDE ports. This was built several years ago, and had an IDE CD/DVD drive. This drive started going bad (would not burn CDs correctly), so I decided to replace it. I had difficultly finding an IDE DVD drive, so I bought a SATA DVD drive. I opened the comnputer, took out the old DVD drive. I left the IDE cable in place, connected to the motherboard, but it is not connected to any drives. I hooked up the new DVD drive, both power and with a SATA data cable (SATA port 3 if I recall). (Sony Optiarc 24x , Newegg URL: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118067 ) When I power on my computer, the drive does NOT show up in Explorer. I can hit the DVD eject button, and the drive will open up, so I know it at least is getting power. I thought, maybe something in the BIOS. When I go to BIOS, boot devices, it shows (1) floppy, (2) my hard drive (3) ATAPI CD Drive. The only other possible BIOS option I could find was uder 'Storage Configuration'. Configure Storage as: My setting is RAID, since I am using two drives in a RAID configuration. Other options were IDE and ACHI. Other than trying to find an IDE DVD drive, is there anything else I can try? The drive does not show up at all in Windows Explorer. I did put in a CD thinking that might help, but nothing happened. Thanks, GS

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• Latitude D600 USB port problem

  - by Moab

  Both USB ports stopped communicating on my D600, they have power, my optical mouse still lights up, no device works on the ports, everything is fine in Device manager in Dual boot XP and W7. Checked the bios, not much in there for USB. No usb device shows up when I use the F12 boot device menu either, so it must be some hardware issue. I have another hard drive with Ubuntu on it, popped it in and USB does not communicate with it either. Appears to have 5v but no communication, any Ideas besides another motherboard or USB card for the pcmcia slot (these don't work to well from my research)? I mostly use them for mass storage devices and pcmcia slots don't supply enough power for these devices. Thanks to all who answer with last ditch efforts. I hate to give up on it, its been good to me and still runs rather well for its vintage. EDIT: I did inspect the ports with a flashlight and did a partial disassembly of the laptop in an attempt to check the solder joints, but would require complete motherboard removal to see them, that is where I stopped. .

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• Can't detect hard drive on Macbook Pro

  - by MartinMoizard

  I changed a few month ago the config of my Macbook Pro with the following: I bought a SSD hard drive I removed the hard drive of my Mac book Pro and installed there my brand new SSD Then I removed my DVD drive and installed my hold hard drive instead with a caddy Everything was working great until today when I couldn't access anymore to my old hard drive because it is not detected anymore. Sometimes Mac OSX is mounting it but it takes like 15 min to browse a simple folder. I opened my laptop to have a look at the problem. It seemed like the optical drive connector was not plugged correctly to the motherboard (that connector: http://cl.ly/2T0X2e1j0J1g47061d1t). So I plugged it correctly and reboot. It didn't fix my problem. Then I tried to put my SSD in the caddy and to boot: no hard drive was detected. So I guess there is something wrong either with the caddy, either with the optical drive connector, or either with the plug that is on the motherboard. So my question is, how can I know where the problem comes from?

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