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  • Mainboard shuts itself off after half a second or so

    - by heishe
    Here's the problem: When I start the PC, the mainboard powers up, then stays that way maybe 0.2-0.5 seconds, and then shuts off again. I say mainboard, and not PC, because I removed all the parts from the system and disconnected everything but the mainboard power supply (the broad 12 pin thingy). When I have the other parts (cpu, graphics card, ram, etc.) installed and connected, the basic behaviour stays the same, but now the mainboard runs for about 6 or 7 seconds (this is a guess) before shutting off. This all started when my monitor wouldn't receive a video signal today, without giving POSTs, so I took the graphics card and the RAM out to see if it changes anything. It didn't, except that from that point on the mainboard would start to have this behavior where it just stays on for a very short time and then shuts off again. I already tested it with a backup PSU - same behavior. What could this be? I'm thinking it can't be on a physical level (transistors burned through or something like that), since then the mainboard either shouldn't start at all or it should detect hardware failures in non-essential parts of the syste and start beeping. Sorry, I forgot to mention. It's an MSI P67A-C43. I already checked the capacitors if someone popped, but I can't find anything. I also tried resetting the cmos, but that didn't change anything.

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  • does my machine configuration make sense?

    - by user1227914
    i couldn't think of a better place to ask this question, so here it goes. we're putting together a dedicated server for a website that will initially host the web server and the mysql database. as the website grows, we'll move the database to a different server and this machine will eventually only server the actual website. so the question is ...does my configuration look okay? it's the first time i'm building a server from scratch so i want to make sure i don't combine components that don't fit or something. things like ..do the drives i picked work for the hot swap ..etc. what do you guys think? am i good to go with this configuration? :) Chassis: Supermicro SuperServer 6016T-MTHF (6x DDR3 SDRAM - ECC DIMM 240-pin, 2x LGA1366 Socket, Power Provided: 600 Watt, 4 (free) x hot-swap - 3.5") CPU: Intel BX80614E5620 Xeon E5620 Processor - 4 Core, 2.40GHz, LGA 1366, 5.86GT/s QPI 12MB Cache, 64-Bit, 80W, HyperThreading Memory: Crucial CT51272BB1339 4GB PC10600 DDR3 Memory - 1333MHz, ECC, Registered, 1x4096MB (possibly 3 or 4 of them) Hard Drives: Western Digital WD2002FAEX Caviar Black Hard Drive - 2TB, 3.5", SATA 6Gbps, 7200 RPM, 64MB (possibly 2 or 3). thank you very much for any professional advice :)

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  • Google Maps mashup for notes/househunting

    - by afray
    I'm house-hunting at the moment and I'm trying to geek it out er I mean streamline the decision-making process. I'm currently using google maps's "my maps" feature to store pins to properties. I create one map per estate agent, then put relevant into into the individual pins. The idea being, I can look at the map and quickly choose which property to view next. However the pins don't currently link back to the map they're owned by, so you have to hunt a bit to get the estate agent info, it's a hassle to get all maps displayed in a new session if you have lots of agents, and each pin doesn't automatically show its bubble so you have to do lots of clicking to see all the info you want. I've tried Evernote, but despite its tag system initially showing some promise, I can't find a way to seemlessly integrate maps. A few google searches don't turn anything up either. Even the big sites, like http://www.rightmove.co.uk, don't seem to provide any maps integration by default. You can see an individual house's location, but not all results of a search. So is there a web site or windows program I could use to do something like this? Viewing all properties on a map is a must, as is quick access to contact details.

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  • File corruption after copying files in Windows 7 64 bit using two methods

    - by DustByte
    I have 5000 pictures and other files in a directory taking up 35 GB. I want to duplicate this directory. Method 1: I do a simple copy and paste of the directory in explorer. I have the habit of checking the checksums after copying important files. In this case I noticed that around 2000 files failed the MD5 test. At a closer inspection of a randomly chosen JPEG with different checksums it turns out that some XMP metadata had changed. In particular, the tag <MicrosoftPhoto:DateAcquired> had changed the date from 2009 to today (possibly around the time I was copying the files). I have no idea what triggered this XMP data to be changed and exactly when it was changed and why for these particular files, but at least it seems to explain the checksum discrepancy. Method 2: As I want the exact files to be duplicated, I tried the program FreeFileSync to mirror the directory, hoping no XMP metadata would mysteriously change. A checksum test in addition to a thorough file comparison test in FreeFileSync lead to two similar but yet different results: 31 files fail the checksum test, 23 files fail the file comparison test. The smaller set is not entirely contained in the bigger set, although many files occur in both. What is alarming here is that not only JPEGs are flagged as altered but also som AVIs, MPGs and a large 7-zip file. Closer inspection of a JPEG indicates that it is indeed corrupt: the bottom half of the picture is simply plain gray. Due to the size of the 7-zip file, I have not been able to pin down the discrepancy. Note, in both methods, every file has its correct file size after being copied. Question: Any thoughts on what is possibly going on here? I have never had this problem before, and I am now terrified that files get corrupted after simple actions like copy/paste and file sync. Even if I manage to successfully copy the files somehow, I would still like an explanation to this.

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  • How to calculate RAM value on performance per dollar spent

    - by Stucko
    Hi, I'm trying to make decisions on buying a new PC. I have most specifications (processor/graphic card/hard disk) pin-downed except for RAM. I am wondering what is the best RAM configuration for the amount of money I'm spending. As the question of best is subjective, I'd like to know how would I calculate the value of RAM sticks sold. 1.(sample)The value of amount of memory: 1) CORSAIR PC1333 D3 2GB = costs $80 2) CORSAIR PC1333 D3 4GB = costs $190 would it be better to buy 2 of item 1) instead of 1 of item 2) ?? Although I would normally choose to have 1 of 2) as the difference is only (190-(80*2)) = 30 as I would save 1 DIMM slot, What I need is the value per amount: 1) 80/ 2 = $40 per 1GB 2) 190/ 4 = $47.5 per 1GB 2. The value of frequency: 1) CORSAIR PC1333 4GB = costs 190 2) CORSAIR PC1600C7 4GB = costs 325 Im not even sure of the denominator ... $ per 1 ghz speed? 3. The value of latency: 1) CORSAIR CMP1600C8 8-8-8-24 2GBx3 (triple channel) = costs 589 2) CORSAIR CMP1600C7D 7-7-7-20 2GBx3 (triple channel) = costs 880 Im not even sure of the denominator ... $ per 1 ghz speed? Just for your information i'd like to get the best out of the money im going to spend to put on a 6 DIMM slot i7core motherboard.

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  • How can I make the Windows 7 taskbar behave like a cross between the old Quick Launch and new Superbar?

    - by frumious
    I really like the taskbar in Windows 7, I think combining buttons to launch apps and the icons that show your running apps is groovy. However, because I like having as much space as possible, I've got small icons enabled and shrunk the bar down to one row. I've also told it not to group the running apps unless there's no space left (to save me having to work harder to find the particular window I want), which also means that they have captions, and are thus quite wide. The (admittedly small) problem this gives me is that I can pin all my favourite apps to the bar, which looks much like the old Quick Launch bar, but when I launch them the running apps because much wider, and the unlaunched apps get lost amongst them. I can manually change the order to fix this, but next time I'll launch a different app and I'll be back to square one. What I'd prefer is for small unlaunched icons to be kept on the left, and wider running apps to move over to the right, which for me would be the best of both worlds. Is there any way I can organise that? I'm aware that one can use the traditional quick launch bar in Windows 7, but that's not what I'm after; I generally prefer the Windows 7 way.

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  • Intel NIC X540-T1 non-functional in Ubuntu Server 12.04

    - by Jeff Carr
    I have installed three Intel X540-T1's in servers running Ubuntu Server 12.04, but all are non-functional, no link lights, no packets sent or received, and no connection on ip4 or ip6 whether set up as dhcp or static. Also, dmesg doesn't detect cable connection or disconnection. I updated the default ixgbe driver to Intel's latest version (3.11.33) with no change. The ethernet controller is being reported as X540-AT2 (which might be a problem that I can't figure out how to fix), but the subsystem is X540-T1 so I believe that might be intended. Does anyone have any experience with this that could assist? ifconfig eth2 eth2 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr a0:36:9f:14:5f:ea inet addr:192.168.101.1 Bcast:192.168.101.255 Mask:255.255.255.0 UP BROADCAST MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1<br> RX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:0 (0.0 B) TX bytes:0 (0.0 B) ethtool -i eth2 driver: ixgbe version: 3.11.33 firmware-version: 0x8000037c bus-info: 0000:08:00.0 supports-statistics: yes supports-test: yes supports-eeprom-access: yes supports-register-dump: yes lspci -vvnns 08:00.0 08:00.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Intel Corporation Ethernet Controller 10 Gigabit X540-AT2 [8086:1528] (rev 01) Subsystem: Intel Corporation Ethernet Converged Network Adapter X540-T1 [8086:0002] Control: I/O- Mem+ BusMaster+ SpecCycle- MemWINV- VGASnoop- ParErr+ Stepping- SERR+ FastB2B- DisINTx+ Status: Cap+ 66MHz- UDF- FastB2B- ParErr- DEVSEL=fast >TAbort- <TAbort- <MAbort- >SERR- <PERR- INTx- Latency: 0, Cache Line Size: 32 bytes Interrupt: pin A routed to IRQ 16 Region 0: Memory at e8000000 (64-bit, prefetchable) [size=2M] Region 4: Memory at e8200000 (64-bit, prefetchable) [size=16K] [virtual] Expansion ROM at e8280000 [disabled] [size=512K] Capabilities: <access denied> Kernel driver in use: ixgbe Kernel modules: ixgbe

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  • Disc drive busy on MacBook, with disc stuck inside.

    - by ayaz
    I have a white MacBook, running Snow Leopard, 10.6.3 with the latest updates. I popped in a DVD that the system failed to mount. I did not see any conspicuous errors. As a result of this failure, the DVD got stuck in the drive. Neither pressing the eject button on the keyboard nor running the diskutil eject command caused the DVD to come out. The commands drutil eject and drutil tray open could not get the DVD to budge at all. The 'mount' and 'eject' buttons on the window for Disk Utility are dimmed out, while it is written in the middle for the DVD drive that that particular disc drive is busy. This is not the first time this has happened with me. I know that I will ultimately have to resort to rebooting the system and holding down the eject button to get the DVD to come out. But, is there any workaround that does not involve rebooting the system and prying the disc out? The drive on this MacBook does not have a needle-pin reset button -- at least, I couldn't find it anywhere. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

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  • RAID administration in Debian Lenny

    - by Siim K
    I've got an old box that I don't want to scrap yet because it's got a nice working 5-disk RAID assembly. I want to create 2 arrays: RAID 1 with 2 disks and RAID 5 with the other 3 disks. The RAID card is Intel SRCU31L. I can create the RAID 1 volume in the console that you access with Ctrl+C at startup. But it only allows for creation of one volume so I can't do anything with the 3 remaining disks. I installed Debian Lenny on the RAID 1 volume and it worked out nicely. What utilites could I now use to create/manage the RAID volumes in Debian Linux? I installed the raidutils package but get an error when trying to fetch a list: #raidutil -L controller or #raidutil -L physical # raidutil -L controller osdOpenEngine : 11/08/110-18:16:08 Fatal error, no active controller device files found. Engine connect failed: Open What could I try to get this thing working? Can you suggest any other tools? Command #lspci -vv gives me this about the controller: 00:06.1 I2O: Intel Corporation Integrated RAID (rev 02) (prog-if 01) Subsystem: Intel Corporation Device 0001 Control: I/O- Mem+ BusMaster+ SpecCycle- MemWINV+ VGASnoop- ParErr- Step ping- SERR+ FastB2B- DisINTx- Status: Cap+ 66MHz- UDF- FastB2B+ ParErr- DEVSEL=medium >TAbort- <TAbort - <MAbort- >SERR- <PERR- INTx- Latency: 64, Cache Line Size: 32 bytes Interrupt: pin A routed to IRQ 26 Region 0: Memory at f9800000 (32-bit, prefetchable) [size=8M] [virtual] Expansion ROM at 30020000 [disabled] [size=64K] Capabilities: <access denied> Kernel driver in use: PCI_I2O Kernel modules: i2o_core

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  • Decyphering Seagate drive model numbers?

    - by Stefan Lasiewski
    I'm comparing Seagate's Enterprise and Desktop drives for a variety of old and new servers. These servers come from different generations, so options like size (73GB, 2TB) and interface (SATA vs SAS 3.0Gbps vs SAS 6Gbps vs SCSI Ultra320) are widely variable. I'm trying to compare the sizes, speeds and interfaces, but I'm getting thrown off by different models. Also, their website is not the best. Does anyone know of a documented explanation of the Seagate model numbers? And is there a single spreadsheet which compares the features for all drives (or all 'Enterprise' drives?). Seagate drives have model numbers like this: Model ST3600057SS 6-Gb/s SAS 600 GB None at Cheetah® 15K Hard Drives Model ST373455LW Ultra320 SCSI 73.4 GB 68-Pin LW at Cheetah® 15K Hard Drives Model ST32000644NS SATA 3Gb/s 2 TB None at Constellation™ ES Hard Drives Model ST973452SS 6-Gb/s SAS 73 GB None Savvio® 15K Hard Drives Model ST9200011FS SATA 3Gb/s 200 GB Pulsar™ Solid State Drives I understand the model numbers read something like this: ST - SOMETHING1 - SIZE - SOMETHING2 - INTERFACE Where the fields mean something like this: ST : For 'Seagate'? 'Seagate Technoligies'? SOMETHING1 - This field has number, but I'm not sure what that represents. SIZE - Size in Gigabytes. This is a number like '73' or '300' or '2000' SOMETHING2 - This field also has a number, but I'm not sure what it means. INTERFACE - This field seems to indicate the Interface. 'SS' means SAS, 'FC' means Fibre Channel, but I don't see how to distinguish between 6Gbps SAS and 3Gbps SAS, or different SATA or FC speeds. I don't see a field which indicates the RPM (15K , 10K, 7.2K) etc. Is this part of the model number?

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  • GitLab post-receive hook not firing

    - by Ben Graham
    Apologies if this isn't the right stackexchange. I have a GitLab install. It was installed over the top of a gitolite install that was only a few days old, and I assume this non-standard setup is at the root of my problem, but I cannot pin it down. The problem is straightforward: post-receive hooks are not fired. This prevents 'project activity' appearing in GitLab. The problem looks like: $ git push #... error: cannot run hooks/post-receive: No such file or directory Hook Exists The post-receive hook/symlink exists and is executable: -rwxr-xr-x 1 git git 470 Oct 3 2012 .gitolite/hooks/common/post-receive lrwxrwxrwx 1 git git 45 Oct 3 2012 repositories/project.git/hooks/post-receive -> /home/git/.gitolite/hooks/common/post-receive It's Executable By GitLab The gitlab user can execute the script (I have removed the /dev/null redirect and fed in blank input to get an 'OK' as output): sudo su - gitlab -c /home/git/.gitolite/hooks/common/post-receive OK GitLab Can Find It GitLab is looking for hooks in the correct location: $ grep hooks /srv/gitlab/gitlab/config/gitlab.yml hooks_path: /home/git/.gitolite/hooks/ and $ bundle exec rake gitlab:app:status RAILS_ENV=production # ... /home/git/.gitolite/hooks/common/post-receive exists? ............YES Environment The env -i line in the hook is commonly cited as an issue. I think that would occur after this problem, but for completeness, redis-cli is found OK: $ env -i redis-cli redis> I've run out of debugging ideas on this one. Does anybody have any suggestions?

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  • New build won't boot: some fans turning, no beep or video

    - by Dave
    When my new system is powered up, the case fan and power supply fans turn fine. The CPU fan twitches, but never gets going. Although I've heard that with AMDs and Gigabyte motherboards that is not necessary a problem. Hard drive is spinning. However, there is absolutely no indication that anything else is happening. The motherboard, as far as I can tell, does not have an internal speaker, but I harvested one from another machine and plugged it in and still no beeps at all. The monitor screen stays black, on both the integrated VGA and DVI. This is a brand new build, and has never successfully booted. My parts are: AMD Athlon II X2 245 Regor 2.9GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core Processor Model ADX245OCGQBOX - includes CPU cooler) GIGABYTE GA-MA785GPMT-UD2H AM3 AMD 785G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM - Retail CORSAIR CMPSU-400CX 400W ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Retail SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive COOLER MASTER Elite 341 RC-341C-KKN1-GP Black Steel MicroATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail I also have a DVD burner, but it acts the same whether that is plugged in or not. I'm using the on board video. What I've tried so far: I've switched power supplies, with no difference. I've tried different monitors (of which all are working on other machines) with no difference. I have tried putting it one memory module at a time, with no difference. I have tried the absolute minimum I can think of (power supply into motherboard, power button ONLY plugged into front panel, CPU fan plugged in), with no difference. I appreciate any ideas anyone might have. Do I need to RMA the motherboard? This is my first build, so there might be something obvious. I was very careful in assembly with static; I'm confident nothing was zapped during assembly.

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  • Windows 7 Won't Boot

    - by Vie
    I recently built a new computer, my fifth one. ASUS Maximus III Formula LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Motherboard EVGA 01G-P3-1452-TR GeForce GTS 450 Superclocked 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Video Card COOLMAX RM-1000B 1000W ATX psu Intel Core i7-875K lynnfield 2.93GHz LGA 1156 95w Quad-Core unlocked processor G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16 (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) memory WD VelociRaptor WD3000GLFS 300gb 10000 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner model AD-7261S-0B LightScribe Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit It gets hung up on the starting windows screen. When I went to install the OS it did the same thing wouldn't go past the windows logo, so I put the new HDD into my old computer and installed windows 7 thinking it was just an installer error. Put the fully installed HDD back into my new machine and it still gets stuck on the starting windows screen. I've tried most everything I've looked up. Disabled USB, Disabled Turbo Boost, Disabled everything that wasn't essential(just about every configuration I can think of), took it apart and put it back together, took all the ram out save one 4g stick(wouldn't even boot when I did this), did a memory scan which came back successful, I don't know what could be wrong. Only thing I can think of is a compatibility issue somewhere, but I've ran over it again and again and I don't know where there would be an issue like that. Need Backup! .<

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  • How can visiting a webpage infect your computer?

    - by Cybis
    My mother's computer recently became infected with some sort of rootkit. It began when she received an email from a close friend asking her to check out some sort of webpage. I never saw it, but my mother said it was just a blog of some sort, nothing interesting. A few days later, my mother signed in on the PayPal homepage. PayPal gave some sort of security notice which stated that to prevent fraud, they needed some additional personal information. Among some of the more normal information (name, address, etc.), they asked for her SSN and bank PIN! She refused to submit that information and complained to PayPal that they shouldn't ask for it. PayPal said they would never ask for such information and that it wasn't their webpage. There was no such "security notice" when she logged in from a different computer, only from hers. It wasn't a phishing attempt or redirection of some sort, IE clearly showed an SSL connection to https://www.paypal.com/ She remembered that strange email and asked her friend about it - the friend never sent it! Obviously, something on her computer was intercepting the PayPal homepage and that email was the only other strange thing to happen recently. She entrusted me to fix everything. I nuked the computer from orbit since it was the only way to be sure (i.e., reformatted her hard drive and did a clean install). That seemed to work fine. But that got me wondering... my mother didn't download and run anything. There were no weird ActiveX controls running (she's not computer illiterate and knows not to install them), and she only uses webmail (i.e., no Outlook vulnerability). When I think webpages, I think content presentation - JavaScript, HTML, and maybe some Flash. How could that possibly install and execute arbitrary software on your computer? It seems kinda weird/stupid that such vulnerabilities exist.

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  • How to test/debug bad network wiring?

    - by Jack Lloyd
    I recently bought a place already wired with Cat 5E (8 ports, leading to a central closet). However attempting to get link, nothing works. On closer examination, it was obvious that the ends in the closet were wired backwards (brown on pin 1, etc). The jacks that I've pulled out of the wall do look to be correctly done. However, testing with a network cable tester shows zero link between any of the jacks and any of the ports in the closet - I had expected to just see a 1/8, 2/7, ... 8/1 mismatch, but instead get nothing at all. The runs are accessible and look neat, though they take some bends that seem quite sharp and are in some cases much longer than they need to be (the person who put this in was a professional electrician but I suspect this was the first time he ran network cabling). My best guess at this point is that he either bought bad cable, or put so much tension on it that he snapped wires. Though it seems surprising/unlikely that I wouldn't get at least one active wire on one of the 8 lines. So, my question: is there anything else I should try or test before I go ripping out everything and running new cable?

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  • Dell Latitude D510 Runs From Battery But Not AC Adapter

    - by Jason George
    I have a Dell Latitude D510 that went belly up around two years ago. It will run from the battery, however, the wall adapter will neither power the machine nor charge the battery. Once the battery is dead, the machine is dead. Since it died I've searched repeatedly for solutions. I've tried a new AC adapter and even removed and replaced the DC jack thinking one of the solder joints might be bad. Both to no avail. After two years of searching I finally found the answer today. Since it's such a simple fix and I had such a hard time finding it I wanted to post the info for others (as it is apparently a common issue with the D510). -----SOLUTION----- It seems this is commonly caused by a cracked solder joint at pin 1 on an inductor filter pair (FL2) near the power jack. Pins 1 and 4 are ground and pins 2 and 3 are power. There should be 20V from 1 to 2 and 3. Anything less indicates a cracked joint that is increasing resistance and dropping the supply voltage. Repair simply requires reflowing all four pins with a little added solder for security. Detailed instructions can be found here. Dell Latitude D510 solder problem

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  • Catastrophic Failure opening ODBC via Citrix

    - by Joshdan
    We recently had our Citrix server crash unexpectedly. When it came back up, there was a new issue -- every ODBC connection fails with "Catastrophic Failure" (0x8000FFFF). The issue is limited to Citrix / ICA connections; logging in as the same user via RDP works as usual. The following code is my minimal test case (for wscript): ''// test_odbc.vbs strConn = "Driver={Microsoft Text Driver (*.txt; *.csv)};Dbq=c:\files\;" Set rs = CreateObject("ADODB.recordset") strSQL = "SELECT * FROM myFile.csv" wscript.echo "Press OK to Test" ''// This line breaks over Citrix, but not over Terminal Services ''// ---------------------- rs.open strSQL, strConn, 3,3 ''// ---------------------- wscript.echo rs("a") Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Windows Server 2003 SP1, Citrix MetaFrame Presentation Server 4.0. Clients include at least versions 10.2-11 running on 2000-Vista, OS X. ODBC error happens whether a DSN is used or not, on at least Access, MS-SQL, and CSV. Connections both through the SSL Gateway and directly. There have been a few users actually able to log in without trouble, but I can't pin down anything special about them.

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  • How to send from my Z88 to my PC

    - by Bevan
    I've got a Cambridge Z88 that I want to get working with my PC. Around 6 years ago - in 2004 - I made heavy use of my Z88 to do a whole bunch of writing on the train while commuting to and from work. The Z88 is solid state, lightweight and has a full size silent keyboard, so it works very well as a writing instrument. I still have the serial cable I soldered up back then and used successfully in 2004. It has these connections: Z88 9 pin ----- ------- 2 TxD ------> RxD 2 3 RxD <------ TxD 3 7 GND <-----> GND 5 4 RTS ------> CTS 8 5 CTS <-+ RTS 7 8 DCD <-+---- DTR 4 9 DTR ----+-> DCD 1 +-> DSR 6 Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find my notes from 2004 that describe how I got it to work back then. I've spent several hours trying to Google a result, but to no avail. I'm pretty sure the cable is fine - after all, it's what I used successfully six years ago, and I've checked it out with a multimeter - so I'm focusing on the PC end of things, which is where I'd like some assistance. Q1: In my recent attempts, I've been using both Hyperterminal (as built into Windows XP) and the command line (copy com2: con:), but with no success. What's a good (better!) serial communications application to use? Is there one that allows me to see as deep as the signalling that's occurring on the wire? Q2: If you have a Z88 that works correctly with your PC, what software do you use on the PC end, and what's the pinout of your cable? I'm pretty sure that the Z88 itself is working properly: When using the built in Import/Export tool to send a file, I see different behaviour when my serial cable is connected compared to disconnected. When disconnected, the transmission appears to work, with a progress meter counting up and then finishing; when connected, nothing happens 'cept a timeout if I wait long enough.

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  • Building vs buying a server for an academic lab [closed]

    - by Roy
    I'm looking for advice on the classic build vs buy question. We need a new linux server to run Matlab computation on in our lab (academic). Matlab parallel computing toolbox licence allows up to 12 local workers so we are aiming at a 12 core server with 4GB memory per core (total of 48gb). The system will have an SSD for the OS and a raid-5 (4x2tb) for data. I looked around and found a (relatively) cheap vendor, Silicon Mechanics, that offers a system to our liking (specs below) for $6732. However, buying the components from newegg cost only $4464! The difference is $2268 which is 50% of the base cost. If buying from a company can be thought of as a sort of insurance, basically my premiums are of 50% of the base cost which to me sounds like a lot. Of course any downtime is bad, but the work is not "mission critical", i.e. if it takes a few days to fix it when it breaks its no the end of the world. If it takes weeks to months then its a problem. If it breaks 2-3 times in 3 years, not too bad. If it breaks every month not good. In term of build experience, I set up a linux cluster in grad school (from existing computers) and I build my home pcs but I never built a server before. The server components I'm thinking about: 1 x SUPERMICRO SYS-7046T-6F 4U Tower Server Barebone Dual LGA 1366 Intel 5520 DDR3 1333/1066/800 ($1,050) 12 x Kingston 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) ECC Unbuffered Server Memory ($420) 2 x Intel Xeon E5645 Westmere-EP 2.4GHz LGA 1366 80W Six-Core ($1,116) 4 x Seagate Constellation ES 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" ($1,040) 1 x SAMSUNG Internal DVD Writer Black SATA ($20) 1 x Intel 520 Series 2.5" 180GB SATA III MLC SSD $300 1 x LSI LSI00281 PCI-Express 2.0 x8 MD2 Low profile SATA / SAS MegaRAID SAS 9260CV-4i Controller Card, $695

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  • Encrypted WiFi with no password?

    - by Ian Boyd
    Is there any standard that allows a WiFi connection to be encrypted, but not require a password? i know that (old, weak) WEP, and newer WPA/WPA2 require a password (i.e. shared secret). Meanwhile my own wireless connections are "open", and therefore unencrypted. There is no technical reason why i can't have an encrypted link that doesn't require the user to enter any password. Such technology exists today (see public key encryption and HTTPS). But does such a standard exist for WiFi? Note: i only want to protect communications, not limit internet access. i get the sense that no such standard exists (since i'm pretty capable with Google), but i'd like it confirmed. Claraification: i want to protect communcations, not limit internet access. That means users are not required to have a password (or its moral equivalent). This means users are not required: to know a password to know a passphrase to enter a CAPTCHA to draw a secret to have a key fob to know a PIN to use a pre-shared key have a pre-shared file to possess a certificate In other words: it has the same accessibility as before, but is now encrypted.

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  • Two monitors with Mac Mini - one displays black despite receiving a signal

    - by alex
    My Mac Mini outputs to my two new monitors - Dell U2311Hs. The LED on the bezel displays blue when receiving a signal, or yellow otherwise. Both screens are displaying blue. It also seems my Mini can see both of them... However, one of them is black. It just displays black, but appears to be receiving a signal (when I turn the Mac off, it then displays No Signal). To make things weirder, on startup, the boot up (white with Apple logo) appears on the right monitor (the one that now displays black). Occasionally, it flickers up on the black screen for 1 second. I have tried Detect Displays. It appears to do nothing. I'm also running a dual monitor KVM. Video connections are DVI-D. How can I fix this situation? Thanks. Update This is the weirdest thing - I used the DVI-D cable that came with the KVM and it seems to have fixed it - I didn't both because it looks identical to any other DVI cable (in form an pin out). So, I will accept an answer if someone can tell me what may be the difference in these cables?

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  • How can visiting a webpage infect your computer?

    - by Cybis
    My mother's computer recently became infected with some sort of rootkit. It began when she received an email from a close friend asking her to check out some sort of webpage. I never saw it, but my mother said it was just a blog of some sort, nothing interesting. A few days later, my mother signed in on the PayPal homepage. PayPal gave some sort of security notice which stated that to prevent fraud, they needed some additional personal information. Among some of the more normal information (name, address, etc.), they asked for her SSN and bank PIN! She refused to submit that information and complained to PayPal that they shouldn't ask for it. PayPal said they would never ask for such information and that it wasn't their webpage. There was no such "security notice" when she logged in from a different computer, only from hers. It wasn't a phishing attempt or redirection of some sort, IE clearly showed an SSL connection to https://www.paypal.com/ She remembered that strange email and asked her friend about it - the friend never sent it! Obviously, something on her computer was intercepting the PayPal homepage and that email was the only other strange thing to happen recently. She entrusted me to fix everything. I nuked the computer from orbit since it was the only way to be sure (i.e., reformatted her hard drive and did a clean install). That seemed to work fine. But that got me wondering... my mother didn't download and run anything. There were no weird ActiveX controls running (she's not computer illiterate and knows not to install them), and she only uses webmail (i.e., no Outlook vulnerability). When I think webpages, I think content presentation - JavaScript, HTML, and maybe some Flash. How could that possibly install and execute arbitrary software on your computer? It seems kinda weird/stupid that such vulnerabilities exist.

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  • My home router randomly disconnects me and I'm unable to reconnect to it

    - by Roy Tang
    It's happened a few times, I'm not sure how to diagnose/debug, so any advise would be appreciated. Symptons: sometimes the router will randomly disconnect; the connection icon on my desktop (wired to the router) gets that yellow "!" symbol that tells me my connection just went down. At this point I'm unable to ping the router. afterwards I try to reset the router by removing then reconnecting the power jack on the router side (this is the fastest way as I can't reset the power strip it's connected to without rebooting my desktop. the router has a reset thingy, but it's one of those things where i have to find a pin to stick into the hole, and when I get disconnected I usually need to get reconnected immediately so I just pull and put back the power jack), but even after that the connection has the same state. after the router reboots, if I try to connect to it using a wifi device like my ipad, the ipad prompts me for the wifi password even though it had already "remembered" all the settings for this router forever after i finally decide to reboot the power strip, and my desktop and the router boot up again, the connection returns to its normal state somewhat and i'm able to connect to it as normal using the desktop and wifi devices. What do I need to check the next time this happens so I can figure out the problem? Is it possibly because we've been using the power jack on the router as an easier way to reboot it? Should I be shopping around for a new router? If it helps, the router is a DLink DIR-300

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  • computer freezes but music continues

    - by Danny
    Recently I have had a problem where my computer will freeze completely but if I happen to be streaming Pandora in a tab that will continue playing. If I wait about 2-5 minutes it will eventually come back and start working normally. I also noticed that during the period that it is unresponsive that the HDD activity light stays lit the whole time, not flashing. I've ran memtest86+ and a diagnostic from Western Digital for my HDD model and none of them reported any errors. The specs for my computer are 1 x ASRock H55M/USB3 R2.0 LGA 1156 Intel H55 HDMI USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard 1 x CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply 1 x Intel Core i3-540 Clarkdale 3.06GHz LGA 1156 73W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80616I3540 1 x G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ 1 x ASUS PCE-N13 PCI Express 150/300Mbps Transfer/Receive Rate Wireless Adapter 1 x EVGA 01G-P3-1556-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) FPB 1GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card I can't imagine what would be causing these problems.

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  • Exporting only visible datagridview columns to excel

    - by Suresh E
    Need help on exporting only visible DataGridView columns to excel, I have this code for hiding columns in DataGridView. this.dg1.Columns[0].Visible = false; And then I have button click event for exporting to excel. // creating Excel Application Microsoft.Office.Interop.Excel._Application app = new Microsoft.Office.Interop.Excel._Application(); // creating new WorkBook within Excel application Microsoft.Office.Interop.Excel._Workbook workbook = app.Workbooks.Add(Type.Missing); // creating new Excelsheet in workbook Microsoft.Office.Interop.Excel._Worksheet worksheet = null; // see the excel sheet behind the program app.Visible = true; // get the reference of first sheet. By default its name is Sheet1. // store its reference to worksheet worksheet = workbook.Sheets["Sheet1"]; worksheet = workbook.ActiveSheet; // changing the name of active sheet worksheet.Name = "PIN korisnici"; // storing header part in Excel for (int i = 1; i < dg1.Columns.Count + 1; i++) { worksheet.Cells[1, i] = dg1.Columns[i - 1].HeaderText; } // storing Each row and column value to excel sheet for (int i = 0; i < dg1.Rows.Count - 1; i++) { for (int j = 0; j < dg1.Columns.Count; j++) { worksheet.Cells[i + 2, j + 1] = dg1.Rows[i].Cells[j].Value.ToString(); } } but I want to export only visible columns, while I get all of them, anyone, help on this.

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