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  • can I connect two modems and comunicate on two side

    - by GongT
    I just wondering how modems work. I know the process of "modulation" and "demodulation". So I wanto know is "demodulation" are simple revese of "modulation" in real world. The PC can got an IP address when connect as type 1 What will happen when I connect them like type 2? type 1 : [PC] ================= [router] type 2 : [PC] === [m] ------- [m] === [router] [m] : modem(exactly same) === : Ethernet cable --- : DSL cable (phone line, maybe optical fiber, or something else?) ISP has a large number of model, Is them same thing as the one in my home(but with diffrent size/speed/price...etc)? Or it's completely different thing?

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  • Gigabit connection between 2 computers

    - by Alecu
    I am trying to set up a connection between 2 pc's. It's a direct cable connection. The problem that I am having is that the connection isn't gigabit. I know both network cards support gigabit. I checked in the device settings and in one pc I can see in the Speed & Duplex the 1Gbps option but on the other pc I can't see that option despite the fact that the network card is gigabit. I have quite some files to copy from one pc onto another and I really need a good connection between them. I can't really remove the hard drive because it would void the warranty. Could this be a driver issue or a cable issue? On both pc's I have windows 8. The network card on the pc that doesn't have the 1 gbps option is an Atheros ar8161 card.

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  • External monitor turning black intermittently

    - by coding crow
    I have installed an external monitor (Dell ST2220L, 21.5 inch) on my laptop (Sony Vaio). I am using a DVI-D cable for connection. Since the laptop does not have a DVI-D port, I have connected a DVI-D to HDMI connector on the laptop end and inserted the cable in HDMI port of the laptop.. I have switched off the laptop display and adjusted the screen resolution on the Dell external monitor to 1920 x 1080 and adjusted colors for the Windows 7 and brightness and contrast from the monitor. The problem is the monitor turns of blank intermittently for 1-2 seconds and turns on again at random interval. What could be the reason for this and how to get rid of this problem?

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  • Western Digital Caviar SE16 not recognized

    - by NStorm
    Before I start, I have been looking at quite a few websites and I still have not found an answer to my problem. I have been building my own computer recently and I have just received the hard drive (WD Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKS) I was planning to put in my computer. After connecting the SATA power cable (99.99999% sure it is connected correctly) and the SATA cable to my motherboard (ASUS M5A78L-M/USB3) I booted my computer into a Linux Mint 13 XFCE 64-bit live USB expecting to see a hard drive when I came to install. Sadly when I checked the only hard drive that was showing was /dev/sda which was my USB with the Linux files on it. I also checked gparted and no hard drive other than my USB was showing up there either. Lastly I checked my BIOS and no matter what SATA port I connected the HDD to it wouldn't show up there either. Does anyone have any advice? Some images of my set-up which could help are bellow: Thanks in advance, Nick

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  • Interconnection between 2 computers in different networks.

    - by cripox
    Hi, What I want is to connect 2 computers (work and personal) primary for using a software KVM (Input Director or Synergy). Transferring files between them would be a plus. The main issue is that the work computer is in a secured enterprise network, and my personal computer is using a 3G+ modem for Internet access. On the work computer I do not have Internet access (only local network). I want to somehow connect them without to mess up either networks. I want my personal computer to not be seen in the work network. Is it possible? Suggestions: - use a simple UTP cable to connect the 2 computers with each other. Can they each be in both 2 networks without issues? - use some kind of usb cable, if exists

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  • My laptop adapter has just faintly chirped like a cricket. Should I not plug it into my laptop again?

    - by Bloke
    The DC end that goes into the laptop was unplugged and the AC end was plugged into the mains (actually the plug sucks, so it could have been that it was...you know...just on the border. Getting and losing contact many times in a short amount of time if I moved the cable a bit) ...So one of these times that I just touched the cable, it did this chirping cricket sound and I unplugged it immediately. It did smell a bit weird, but I'm not sure if that's normal (due to heat or whatever).. So, should I be afraid of if? Can it kill my laptop if I try charging it? I only have around half an hour of battery left. Please help. Hope this is the right StackExchange site to ask. Thank you in advance

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  • unable to ping machine on WLAN

    - by N.M.
    I've started accepting remote desktop connections on one of my machines. If i connect the machine to my router using an Ethernet cable i am able to ping it and connect to it remotely (using RDP). However, if i connect the machine using wireless network i am unable to ping it (or access it using RDP). Although i can live with connecting that machine using an Ethernet cable i just wanted to know the reason why it doesn't work using wireless. Is the router not able to forward packets to that host if its connected using wireless? If yes, any solutions?

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  • Cannot connect my Ubuntu to TV with HDMI

    - by Hannes Johannes
    Another problem in my way to Ubuntu world.. Trying to make things work Linux way, day 4, problem #5321: I have a Compaq laptop and Nvidia graphic adapter. I also have Panasonic TV, which I thought I could use as a second screen just like I used to to when I was still using Windows Vista with my laptop. Plug the screen to the comp and voilá, I can watch my videos on big screen. And a boll***s I can, not with ubuntu anyways. Nvidia x server (or whatever it's called) does recognize my tv. It's very badly designed gui as I can never be sure has it saved my changes or not (most often not), but I recon I've got that one sorted out. I haven't found a way to set a primary monitor there, but it does see there are two monitors, my laptop and the tv. So far so good. But then? Ubuntu's own monitor setting only sees the laptop screen. If I reboot (with the HDMI cable connected) I end up having a black screen. Then I have to take the cable away, cut the power off and restart the comp.. Please, help, any help would be appreciated! I would so much love to like this linux more than windows but it surely takes a lot of trying...

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  • A lot has happened since last post!!!!!!!!!

    - by Ratman21
    And I mean a lot! First off had two interviews (one was selling insurance) and other installing cable. I have more hope for the cable one. Getting more emails from my job search engines (having problems with going through them and applying for those jobs, I know I can do). It seems the more I apply to, the more job emails pop up in my in box. But at the same time I am fighting feelings of worthlessness (18 months and no job). It is putting a strain on my marriage (We had had blow out over a broken drinking glass since I last posted).     But, at the same time, I am fighting mad about (a figure of speech, really) not having a job. Look just because I am over 55 and have gray hair. It does not mean, my brain is dead or I can not longer trouble shoot a router or circuit or LAN issue. Or that I can do “IT” work at all. And I could prove this if; some one would give me at job. Come on try me for 90 days at min. wage.   I know you will end up keeping me (hope fully at normal pay) around. Is any one hearing me…come on take up the challenge!

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  • How do I stop my ethernet network connection from dropping?

    - by Sean Hill
    My ethernet-based network connection doesn't stay up consistently. I'm running a ping against the gateway and it will: Work for a minute Freeze, time out, or give multi-second response times Repeat If it's stuck and I disable/enable networking through the network manager applet everything will work fine again for a minute. After 280 packets transmitted I'm getting 41% packet loss. I've tried a different cable and connection to the gateway but this had no effect. The distance to the gateway is just about 3 feet. Seems to work fine if I switch over to Windows, but Ubuntu is my main OS and I can't even use it right now as I depend on the network. My setup... OS: Ubuntu 11.04, dual-booting Windows 7 Mobo: Gigabyte Z68X-UD4-B3 CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K Edit A little clarification... Network Manager is still showing me as connected, but I am unable to reach to gateway or anything beyond. At no point does NM suggest the connection is lost and calling ifconfig shows that I still have an IP address. I tried connecting to a different gateway with a different cable and the same problem arises. As requested: lspci | grep -i eth 07:00.0 Ethernet controller: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8111/8168B PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet controller (rev 06) dmesg | tail -f [ 14.024709] EXT4-fs (sda5): re-mounted. Opts: errors=remount-ro,commit=0 [ 14.026443] EXT4-fs (sda7): re-mounted. Opts: commit=0 [ 14.176101] hda-intel: IRQ timing workaround is activated for card #2. Suggest a bigger bdl_pos_adj. [ 23.917731] eth0: no IPv6 routers present [ 726.109697] r8169 0000:07:00.0: eth0: link up [ 733.169494] r8169 0000:07:00.0: eth0: link up [ 753.930119] r8169 0000:07:00.0: eth0: link up [ 880.787332] r8169 0000:07:00.0: eth0: link up [ 1159.161283] r8169 0000:07:00.0: eth0: link up [ 1406.623550] r8169 0000:07:00.0: eth0: link up Edit @roland-taylor: Network is always available under Windows. Pings do not timeout, applications do not complain of no network availability, large downloads are not interrupted or slowed.

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  • Dirt Cheap Bi-Directional Antenna Wirelessly Extends Your LAN

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    If you’re looking for an effective way to link remote LANs without the hassle of laying cable, this DIY bi-directional antenna is a quick (and cheap) method for bringing internet access to outbuildings and other locations. Tinker Danilo Larizza needed to share internet access between apartments that are relatively close together but not hardwired–ruling out simply sharing the access via existing LAN infrastructure. His solution combines a simple scrap wire antenna array mounted inside a plastic food bin (seen here with the cover removed to show the antenna) and some coaxial cable to link the antenna to two routers. Our favorite part about his build is that he constructed the pair to establish if the antenna setup would even work in his location and intended to buy commercial antennas if it did; his Tupperware models worked so well, however, they’re now the permanent solution. Hit up the link below for more information about the project. 2.4 Ghz Directive Biquad Antenna [via Hack A Day] How To Use USB Drives With the Nexus 7 and Other Android Devices Why Does 64-Bit Windows Need a Separate “Program Files (x86)” Folder? Why Your Android Phone Isn’t Getting Operating System Updates and What You Can Do About It

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  • Problems with wired ethernet connection Ubuntu 11.10

    - by Andrew Fielden
    After some partition shuffling, I've got a problem on my 11.10 system. The wired ethernet interface fails to come up, although the wireless interface is working. I'm using NetworkManager. I thought this may be a problem with NetworkManager, so I checked the config files, which look ok. I then tried re-installing the package, but this didn't resolve the issues. I'm not sure at this point if the problem is due to software configuration, or a hardware problem. I've also tried the cable in other router ports, but same problem. The symptoms are:- System settings - Network reports that the cable is unplugged (it isn't) ifconfig reports the following eth0 Link encap:Ethernet HWaddr f0:4d:a2:a2:a7:fe UP BROADCAST MULTICAST MTU:1500 Metric:1 RX packets:10 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 frame:0 TX packets:0 errors:0 dropped:0 overruns:0 carrier:0 collisions:0 txqueuelen:1000 RX bytes:792 (792.0 B) TX bytes:0 (0.0 B) Interrupt:46 Base address:0xe000 My /etc/network/interfaces file has the following: auto lo iface lo inet loopback My /etc/resolv.conf file has the following: # Generated by NetworkManager The router's red light is on for this port dmesg reports ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): eth0: link is not ready

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  • Ethernet Connection Unavailable

    - by fabikw
    I'm running Ubuntu Server 12.04 on a laptop with an Intel NIC (driver e1000e). When I connect the ethernet port to the internet (college network, DHCP) it works out of the box. Now I'm trying to connect it to a networked USRP (if you want to know what it is). A friend of mine managed to do this in his laptop (running regular Ubuntu 12.04) just by setting up a new Wired connection in the Network Manager with appropriate addresses. However, when I do the same, no wired connections are available. The output of nmcli -p dev is =========================================== Status of devices =========================================== DEVICE TYPE STATE ------------------------------------------- wlan0 802-11-wireless connected eth0 802-3-ethernet unavailable but the cable is connected to the device and the device is powered up. Any idea how to solve this? UPDATE: After stopping the network-manager service, setting up the connection manually and starting the service again, it now detects the ethernet connection. However, the device still can't receive data and doesn't answer to pings. UPDATE 2: As suggested I tried using a cross over cable but the result is exactly the same. However, I found out that connecting the device to the dock (as opposed to directly to the laptop) works fine. I know that the ethernet port in the laptop works fine, because connecting to the network through it works. Is it possible that the port in the laptop doesn't support Gb Ethernet (because that's what the device requires) but the one in the dock does?

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  • Ubuntu 12.04 LTS - Apple iPad 3 (iOS 7 non-jailbroken) USB connection problem

    - by Eldian
    I've bought an Apple iPad 3 (iOS 7 non-jailbroken), and I'm trying to connect it to my PC running Ubuntu 12.04 through the original USB cable. After I plugged in the cable, I got this message on the PC: The device 'iPad' is locked. Enter the passcode on the device and click 'Try again'. Slide to unlock on iPad, it's OK, I got this message on the PC again: The device 'iPad' is locked. Enter the passcode on the device and click 'Try again'. iPad: Trust this computer? TRUST/DON'T TRUST I've selected TRUST. PC: Unable to mount - DBus error org.freedesktop.DBus.Error.NoReply: Message did not receive a reply (timeout by message bus) OK, I've read some forums, everywhere there was this solution: "Install: ifuse, libimobiledevice-utils, Rhythmbox OK, I've installed them through terminal, and used the idevicepair unpair && idevicepair pair command also in the terminal. Then I got this message: Device is not paired with this host. I don't know what to do. Please help!

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  • Disabling monitor reconfiguration when closing lid

    - by Tomas
    I often need to move my laptop from one working place to another. When I do this, there are two events Ubuntu responds to by changing the monitor set up: Removing/attaching the VGA cable Closing/opening the lid of the laptop While removing the VGA cable gives me what I need (single screen, highest native resolution on the external screen if connected; otherwise highest resolution on the laptop), the laptop close/open lid response is not as good. Every time I close or open the lid, Ubuntu reconfigures the monitor set up. When I close the lid now... the screen goes black for a few seconds and it switches to clone, with my laptop screen disabled. Reopening results in... briefly a black screen, then the external monitor being used as desktop extension. Ubuntu thinks too much. My first and foremost question: Is there any way to let Ubuntu ignore lid close events? Ideally (or when there's no way to solve above question) I'd want to change how it deals with the screen reconfiguration. Why does Ubuntu toggle the screen configuration between external, clone and single display? Can't I just configure it to always use the external monitor, when present, in single screen mode? Note that similar questions have been asked before (most notably this one), but these have been closed perhaps wrongly. Any ideas are very welcome, I don't mind playing around a bit to see if something works.

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  • ubuntu 12.10 Lenovo b570e, WiFi connected but not working

    - by koogee
    I'm running ubuntu 12.10 liveUSB on a lenovo b570e. It has an atheros wifi card that connects with my home network but I can't browse AT ALL. My network is multiple clients --> router --> isp modem --> Internet I can ping my router (192.168.0.1) but not my isp's modem(192.168.15.1). I have 3 other computers connected to the same router that are working fine (infact i'm posting from one) ping -c 3 google.com unknown host google.com ping -c 3 8.8.8.8 shows 100% packet loss I think its some networking issue. I tried directly connecting it to the router via ethernet cable but same issue. It gets an ip, shows LAN connected but can't browse. If I connect it directly to the isp modem via ethernet cable it starts working fine. Connection Information shows: Interface: 802.11 wifi (wlan0) driver: ath9k security: wpa/wpa2 speed: 150mb/s ip: 192.168.0.106 broadcast: 192.168.0.255 subnet:255.255.255.0 default route: 192.168.0.1 primary dns: 192.168.15.1 i have restarted the router and modem many times. Rebooted the LiveUSB many times.

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  • alsa - sound issues on ubuntu 12.04

    - by tam_ubuuser
    i am having an sony E series laptop.i have an HDMI port .at this stage ,i have tested my sound card , which provides audio out on my laptop i.e i could hear songs .my laptop has two sound cards amd 5450 and an intel-hda(alsamixer shows that as s/pdif) . i decided to connect HDMI output to my new HD-TV.but, i could get only visuals on my TV,NO AUDIO OUTPUT ( HDMI cable works fine with win 7).my laptop has two sound cards.but i couldn't switch output to other card.( i don't know ,how to do that) i decided to update alsa. complied the following code in terminal. sudo apt-add-repository ppa:ubuntu-audio-dev/alsa-daily sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get install alsa-hda-dkms then,strangely no login sound, and no audio output on my laptop at all .then, started complied code from step1 sound troubleshooting procedure from offical ubuntu site.then, my speaker icon taskbar disappeared .obivously $aplay -l ,provided output as no soundcards detected . so , i implemented step 4 from that guide, it provides a output of all hardware devices in my laptop. *-multimedia UNCLAIMED description: Audio device product: Cedar HDMI Audio [Radeon HD 5400/6300 Series] vendor: Hynix Semiconductor (Hyundai Electronics) physical id: 0.1 bus info: pci@0000:01:00.1 version: 00 width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm pciexpress msi bus_master cap_list configuration: latency=0 resources: memory:f0040000-f0043fff *-multimedia UNCLAIMED description: Audio device product: 5 Series/3400 Series Chipset High Definition Audio vendor: Intel Corporation physical id: 1b bus info: pci@0000:00:1b.0 version: 05 width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm msi pciexpress bus_master cap_list configuration: latency=0 resources: memory:f5e00000-f5e03fff that command displayed output name of the two cards . but , still i have no positive output on $aplay -l. so therfore, i think alsa couldn't detect my sound cards . is there solution to this problem? it could be better,if alsa would channel output from multiple sound cards ? how should install and configure alsa such that detects HDMI cable as soon i connect to my HD tv? is it possible to alsa and pluseaudio 2.0 to co-exist, if so how?

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  • How do I fix my ethernet card losing network connection every few minutes with kernels 3.8.x?

    - by igoryonya
    I'm using Ubuntu 13.04. My laptop is Acer Aspire one 722-c58rr, and my ethernet card works for a few seconds at a time with kernels 3.8.x, however, kernels 3.5.x and below worked fine. On kernels 3.8.x, it works fine after boot for about a minute, then it looses network connection. When pinging to some address, it says: network address is unreachable, but it can ping it's own address. The address is statically configured. Everything was working fine before. I went to vacation, where I used WiFi and 3G connections, so I didn't notice that the problem occurred. Came back home, plugged in into the ethernet. It worked for a minute then stopped. Rebooting commutator fixed the problem. Tried to connect to a different commutator, same problem. Unplugging and plugging the cable fixes the problem for another minute. Disconnecting eth in Network manager and reconnecting it again, does the same thing. WiFi has no such problem. Tried to use a different cable that works fine on another computer, the same problem. Tried to boot with the lower kernel version, the same problem was happening until I got to the version 3.5 of the kernel series. Everything works fine on the kernel 3.5.x, but I don't want to miss out on the new kernel's features. Executing commands, when booted with 3.8 kernel series, give the following results: lspci| grep -i eth: 06:00.0 Ethernet controller: Qualcomm Atheros AR8152 v2.0 Fast Ethernet (rev c1) dmesg| grep eth1: [ 89.548291] atl1c 0000:06:00.0: atl1c: eth1 NIC Link is Up How do I fix it, while staying in the new kernel version?

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  • HDMI & Display Port stopped work on 11.10

    - by dizzy
    After upgraded two laptops to 11.10, HDMI and Display ports stopped to work. Symptoms on each (btw. it used to work with 11.04 on both): laptop Dell Inspiron 1525 (HDMI, Intel GMX 3100): after HDMI cable is plugged in, screen is corrupted (no panel, no icons), system is unresponsive, TV set receives some signal, but only blue screen and some regular ticks can be heard. Unplugging the cable system recovers. No logs were checked. Thinkpad W510 (DisplayPort, NVidia). Simple "Screens" utility does not recognizes TV set, but this is something to do with the differences between Nvidia driver API and the one expected from the utility, as far I could spot on the net. However, using Nvidia-settings, TV is recognized, but cannot be enabled and used. Beside that, touch pad freezes after HDMI2DisplayPort connector is plugged in the laptop (not immediately, but after few seconds - probably after some handshake with the TV set crashes). It is strange that no such bug reports can be found on the net. So, I guess it is something wrong on our laptops only, but would appreciate some hints (i.e. any known changes recently related to HDMI, Display Port, X-Windows, kernel... wherever I should take a look and fix the issue).

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  • Crackling sound from right laptop speaker

    - by user1880405
    This problem lasts for several months already (first on Ubuntu 13.10, not on 12.04. I get very loud cracking/popping sound from my right Asus K56C's speaker, I searched everything but could not get rid of it. Several facts: There is no problem on Windows 8. It has nothing to do with applications running because it appears even before login screen of Ubuntu. Also same problem if I boot from Live USB. Muting sound will remove noise, but lowering volume has no effect. Inserting any headphones, removes the noise. If I disconnect power cable while there is noise, noise will always disappear, but only if there is no music playing. If I start playing music, noise again appear even with power cable disconnected. Sometimes that noise disappears for 1-4 weeks, and then again appears for no reason and lasts from several days to weeks. That noise is always the same, and I tried adding tsched=0 to /etc/pulse/default.pa. Also tried this PositionReporting fix, with no effect. I also tried disconnecting all the cables and removing all electronic devices around laptop, but it has no effect. I also tried removing Pulse Audio, didn't change anything. Would be great if someone has some real solution for this problem.

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  • Monitor dectecs wrong display mode

    - by user292449
    I am running into an issue with 14.04. I have two monitors. the fist one is a 19 inch LG that runs off DVI at 1440x900. It seems to function just fine. The second is a 23 inch LG that should run at 1920x1200. It has been plugged in with both a HDMI to HDMI cable and a DVI to HDMI cable. It seems to be stuck in "I am displaying for a DVD player in 1080p mode" or some such. I had this issue with windows a long long time ago and eventually it just went away. I can set the screen display to 1920x1200 with the generic X drivers but I am a gamer and would like to use the Nvidia drivers since they deliver better performance. When I switch to the Nvidia driver I can set the resolution to 1920x1200 but the screen seems to be up and to the left with a black border down and to the right. If I switch back to the default X driver after this the screen remains stuck in the up and to the left mode. Any help would be wonderful.

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  • Why is my external USB hard drive sometimes completely inaccessible?

    - by Eliah Kagan
    I have an external USB hard drive, consisting of an 1 TB SATA drive in a Rosewill RX35-AT-SU SLV Aluminum 3.5" Silver USB 2.0 External Enclosure, plugged into my SONY VAIO VGN-NS310F laptop. It is plugged directly into the computer (not through a hub). The drive inside the enclosure is a 7200 rpm Western Digital, but I don't remember the exact model. I can remove the drive from the enclosure (again), if people think it's necessary to know that detail. The drive is formatted ext4. I mount it dynamically with udisks on my Lubuntu 11.10 system, usually automatically via PCManFM. (I have had Lubuntu 12.04 on this machine, and experienced all this same behavior with that too.) Every once in a while--once or twice a day--it becomes inaccessible, and difficult to unmount. Attempting to unmount it with sudo umount ... gives an error message saying the drive is in use and suggesting fuser and lsof to find out what is using it. Killing processes found to be using the drive with fuser and lsof is sometimes sufficient to let me unmount it, but usually isn't. Once the drive is unmounted or the machine is rebooted, the drive will not mount. Plugging in the drive and turning it on registers nothing on the computer. dmesg is unchanged. The drive's access light usually blinks vigorously, as though the drive is being accessed constantly. Then eventually, after I keep the drive off for a while (half an hour), I am able to mount it again. While the drive doesn't work on this machine for a while, it will work immediately on another machine running the same version of Ubuntu. Sometimes bringing it back over from the other machine seems to "fix" it. Sometimes it doesn't. The drive doesn't always stop being accessible while mounted, before becoming unmountable. Sometimes it works fine, I turn off the computer, I turn the computer back on, and I cannot mount the drive. Currently this is the only drive with which I have this problem, but I've had problems that I think are the same as this, with different drives, on different Ubuntu machines. This laptop has another external USB drive plugged into it regularly, which doesn't have this problem. Unplugging that drive before plugging in the "problem" drive doesn't fix the problem. I've opened the drive up and made sure the connections were tight in the past, and that didn't seem to help (any more than waiting the same amount of time that it took to open and close the drive, before attempting to remount it). Does anyone have any ideas about what could be causing this, what troubleshooting steps I should perform, and/or how I could fix this problem altogether? Update: I tried replacing the USB data cable (from the enclosure to the laptop), as Merlin suggested. I should've tried that long ago, since it fits the symptoms perfectly (the drive works on another machine, which would make sense because the cable would be bent at a different angle, possibly completing a circuit of frayed wires). Unfortunately, though, this did not help--I have the same problem with the new cable. I'll try to provide additional detailed information about the drive inside the enclosure, next time I'm able to get the drive working. (At the moment I don't have another machine available to attach it.) Major Update (28 June 2012) The drive seems to have deteriorated considerably. I think this is so, because I've attached it to another machine and gotten lots of errors about invalid characters, when copying files from it. I am less interested in recovering data from the drive than I am in figuring out what is wrong with it. I specifically want to figure out if the problem is the drive or the enclosure. Now, when I plug the drive into the original machine where I was having the problems, it still doesn't appear (including with sudo fdisk -l), but it is recognized by the kernel and messages are added to dmesg. Most of the message consist of errors like this, repeated many times: [ 7.707593] sd 5:0:0:0: [sdc] Unhandled sense code [ 7.707599] sd 5:0:0:0: [sdc] Result: hostbyte=invalid driverbyte=DRIVER_SENSE [ 7.707606] sd 5:0:0:0: [sdc] Sense Key : Medium Error [current] [ 7.707614] sd 5:0:0:0: [sdc] Add. Sense: Unrecovered read error [ 7.707621] sd 5:0:0:0: [sdc] CDB: Read(10): 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 00 [ 7.707636] end_request: critical target error, dev sdc, sector 0 [ 7.707641] Buffer I/O error on device sdc, logical block 0 Here are all the lines from dmesg starting with when the drive is recognized. Please note that: I'm back to running Lubuntu 12.04 on this machine (and perhaps that's a factor in better error messages). Now that the drive has been plugged into another machine and back into this one, and also now that this machine is back to running 12.04, the drive's access light doesn't blink as I had described. Looking at the drive, it would appear as though it is working normally, with low or no access. This behavior (the errors) occurs when rebooting the machine with the drive plugged in, and also when manually plugging in the drive. A few of the messages are about /dev/sdb. That drive is working fine. The bad drive is /dev/sdc. I just didn't want to edit anything out from the middle.

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  • HTG Reviews the CODE Keyboard: Old School Construction Meets Modern Amenities

    - by Jason Fitzpatrick
    There’s nothing quite as satisfying as the smooth and crisp action of a well built keyboard. If you’re tired of  mushy keys and cheap feeling keyboards, a well-constructed mechanical keyboard is a welcome respite from the $10 keyboard that came with your computer. Read on as we put the CODE mechanical keyboard through the paces. What is the CODE Keyboard? The CODE keyboard is a collaboration between manufacturer WASD Keyboards and Jeff Atwood of Coding Horror (the guy behind the Stack Exchange network and Discourse forum software). Atwood’s focus was incorporating the best of traditional mechanical keyboards and the best of modern keyboard usability improvements. In his own words: The world is awash in terrible, crappy, no name how-cheap-can-we-make-it keyboards. There are a few dozen better mechanical keyboard options out there. I’ve owned and used at least six different expensive mechanical keyboards, but I wasn’t satisfied with any of them, either: they didn’t have backlighting, were ugly, had terrible design, or were missing basic functions like media keys. That’s why I originally contacted Weyman Kwong of WASD Keyboards way back in early 2012. I told him that the state of keyboards was unacceptable to me as a geek, and I proposed a partnership wherein I was willing to work with him to do whatever it takes to produce a truly great mechanical keyboard. Even the ardent skeptic who questions whether Atwood has indeed created a truly great mechanical keyboard certainly can’t argue with the position he starts from: there are so many agonizingly crappy keyboards out there. Even worse, in our opinion, is that unless you’re a typist of a certain vintage there’s a good chance you’ve never actually typed on a really nice keyboard. Those that didn’t start using computers until the mid-to-late 1990s most likely have always typed on modern mushy-key keyboards and never known the joy of typing on a really responsive and crisp mechanical keyboard. Is our preference for and love of mechanical keyboards shining through here? Good. We’re not even going to try and hide it. So where does the CODE keyboard stack up in pantheon of keyboards? Read on as we walk you through the simple setup and our experience using the CODE. Setting Up the CODE Keyboard Although the setup of the CODE keyboard is essentially plug and play, there are two distinct setup steps that you likely haven’t had to perform on a previous keyboard. Both highlight the degree of care put into the keyboard and the amount of customization available. Inside the box you’ll find the keyboard, a micro USB cable, a USB-to-PS2 adapter, and a tool which you may be unfamiliar with: a key puller. We’ll return to the key puller in a moment. Unlike the majority of keyboards on the market, the cord isn’t permanently affixed to the keyboard. What does this mean for you? Aside from the obvious need to plug it in yourself, it makes it dead simple to repair your own keyboard cord if it gets attacked by a pet, mangled in a mechanism on your desk, or otherwise damaged. It also makes it easy to take advantage of the cable routing channels in on the underside of the keyboard to  route your cable exactly where you want it. While we’re staring at the underside of the keyboard, check out those beefy rubber feet. By peripherals standards they’re huge (and there is six instead of the usual four). Once you plunk the keyboard down where you want it, it might as well be glued down the rubber feet work so well. After you’ve secured the cable and adjusted it to your liking, there is one more task  before plug the keyboard into the computer. On the bottom left-hand side of the keyboard, you’ll find a small recess in the plastic with some dip switches inside: The dip switches are there to switch hardware functions for various operating systems, keyboard layouts, and to enable/disable function keys. By toggling the dip switches you can change the keyboard from QWERTY mode to Dvorak mode and Colemak mode, the two most popular alternative keyboard configurations. You can also use the switches to enable Mac-functionality (for Command/Option keys). One of our favorite little toggles is the SW3 dip switch: you can disable the Caps Lock key; goodbye accidentally pressing Caps when you mean to press Shift. You can review the entire dip switch configuration chart here. The quick-start for Windows users is simple: double check that all the switches are in the off position (as seen in the photo above) and then simply toggle SW6 on to enable the media and backlighting function keys (this turns the menu key on the keyboard into a function key as typically found on laptop keyboards). After adjusting the dip switches to your liking, plug the keyboard into an open USB port on your computer (or into your PS/2 port using the included adapter). Design, Layout, and Backlighting The CODE keyboard comes in two flavors, a traditional 87-key layout (no number pad) and a traditional 104-key layout (number pad on the right hand side). We identify the layout as traditional because, despite some modern trapping and sneaky shortcuts, the actual form factor of the keyboard from the shape of the keys to the spacing and position is as classic as it comes. You won’t have to learn a new keyboard layout and spend weeks conditioning yourself to a smaller than normal backspace key or a PgUp/PgDn pair in an unconventional location. Just because the keyboard is very conventional in layout, however, doesn’t mean you’ll be missing modern amenities like media-control keys. The following additional functions are hidden in the F11, F12, Pause button, and the 2×6 grid formed by the Insert and Delete rows: keyboard illumination brightness, keyboard illumination on/off, mute, and then the typical play/pause, forward/backward, stop, and volume +/- in Insert and Delete rows, respectively. While we weren’t sure what we’d think of the function-key system at first (especially after retiring a Microsoft Sidewinder keyboard with a huge and easily accessible volume knob on it), it took less than a day for us to adapt to using the Fn key, located next to the right Ctrl key, to adjust our media playback on the fly. Keyboard backlighting is a largely hit-or-miss undertaking but the CODE keyboard nails it. Not only does it have pleasant and easily adjustable through-the-keys lighting but the key switches the keys themselves are attached to are mounted to a steel plate with white paint. Enough of the light reflects off the interior cavity of the keys and then diffuses across the white plate to provide nice even illumination in between the keys. Highlighting the steel plate beneath the keys brings us to the actual construction of the keyboard. It’s rock solid. The 87-key model, the one we tested, is 2.0 pounds. The 104-key is nearly a half pound heavier at 2.42 pounds. Between the steel plate, the extra-thick PCB board beneath the steel plate, and the thick ABS plastic housing, the keyboard has very solid feel to it. Combine that heft with the previously mentioned thick rubber feet and you have a tank-like keyboard that won’t budge a millimeter during normal use. Examining The Keys This is the section of the review the hardcore typists and keyboard ninjas have been waiting for. We’ve looked at the layout of the keyboard, we’ve looked at the general construction of it, but what about the actual keys? There are a wide variety of keyboard construction techniques but the vast majority of modern keyboards use a rubber-dome construction. The key is floated in a plastic frame over a rubber membrane that has a little rubber dome for each key. The press of the physical key compresses the rubber dome downwards and a little bit of conductive material on the inside of the dome’s apex connects with the circuit board. Despite the near ubiquity of the design, many people dislike it. The principal complaint is that dome keyboards require a complete compression to register a keystroke; keyboard designers and enthusiasts refer to this as “bottoming out”. In other words, the register the “b” key, you need to completely press that key down. As such it slows you down and requires additional pressure and movement that, over the course of tens of thousands of keystrokes, adds up to a whole lot of wasted time and fatigue. The CODE keyboard features key switches manufactured by Cherry, a company that has manufactured key switches since the 1960s. Specifically the CODE features Cherry MX Clear switches. These switches feature the same classic design of the other Cherry switches (such as the MX Blue and Brown switch lineups) but they are significantly quieter (yes this is a mechanical keyboard, but no, your neighbors won’t think you’re firing off a machine gun) as they lack the audible click found in most Cherry switches. This isn’t to say that they keyboard doesn’t have a nice audible key press sound when the key is fully depressed, but that the key mechanism isn’t doesn’t create a loud click sound when triggered. One of the great features of the Cherry MX clear is a tactile “bump” that indicates the key has been compressed enough to register the stroke. For touch typists the very subtle tactile feedback is a great indicator that you can move on to the next stroke and provides a welcome speed boost. Even if you’re not trying to break any word-per-minute records, that little bump when pressing the key is satisfying. The Cherry key switches, in addition to providing a much more pleasant typing experience, are also significantly more durable than dome-style key switch. Rubber dome switch membrane keyboards are typically rated for 5-10 million contacts whereas the Cherry mechanical switches are rated for 50 million contacts. You’d have to write the next War and Peace  and follow that up with A Tale of Two Cities: Zombie Edition, and then turn around and transcribe them both into a dozen different languages to even begin putting a tiny dent in the lifecycle of this keyboard. So what do the switches look like under the classicly styled keys? You can take a look yourself with the included key puller. Slide the loop between the keys and then gently beneath the key you wish to remove: Wiggle the key puller gently back and forth while exerting a gentle upward pressure to pop the key off; You can repeat the process for every key, if you ever find yourself needing to extract piles of cat hair, Cheeto dust, or other foreign objects from your keyboard. There it is, the naked switch, the source of that wonderful crisp action with the tactile bump on each keystroke. The last feature worthy of a mention is the N-key rollover functionality of the keyboard. This is a feature you simply won’t find on non-mechanical keyboards and even gaming keyboards typically only have any sort of key roller on the high-frequency keys like WASD. So what is N-key rollover and why do you care? On a typical mass-produced rubber-dome keyboard you cannot simultaneously press more than two keys as the third one doesn’t register. PS/2 keyboards allow for unlimited rollover (in other words you can’t out type the keyboard as all of your keystrokes, no matter how fast, will register); if you use the CODE keyboard with the PS/2 adapter you gain this ability. If you don’t use the PS/2 adapter and use the native USB, you still get 6-key rollover (and the CTRL, ALT, and SHIFT don’t count towards the 6) so realistically you still won’t be able to out type the computer as even the more finger twisting keyboard combos and high speed typing will still fall well within the 6-key rollover. The rollover absolutely doesn’t matter if you’re a slow hunt-and-peck typist, but if you’ve read this far into a keyboard review there’s a good chance that you’re a serious typist and that kind of quality construction and high-number key rollover is a fantastic feature.  The Good, The Bad, and the Verdict We’ve put the CODE keyboard through the paces, we’ve played games with it, typed articles with it, left lengthy comments on Reddit, and otherwise used and abused it like we would any other keyboard. The Good: The construction is rock solid. In an emergency, we’re confident we could use the keyboard as a blunt weapon (and then resume using it later in the day with no ill effect on the keyboard). The Cherry switches are an absolute pleasure to type on; the Clear variety found in the CODE keyboard offer a really nice middle-ground between the gun-shot clack of a louder mechanical switch and the quietness of a lesser-quality dome keyboard without sacrificing quality. Touch typists will love the subtle tactile bump feedback. Dip switch system makes it very easy for users on different systems and with different keyboard layout needs to switch between operating system and keyboard layouts. If you’re investing a chunk of change in a keyboard it’s nice to know you can take it with you to a different operating system or “upgrade” it to a new layout if you decide to take up Dvorak-style typing. The backlighting is perfect. You can adjust it from a barely-visible glow to a blazing light-up-the-room brightness. Whatever your intesity preference, the white-coated steel backplate does a great job diffusing the light between the keys. You can easily remove the keys for cleaning (or to rearrange the letters to support a new keyboard layout). The weight of the unit combined with the extra thick rubber feet keep it planted exactly where you place it on the desk. The Bad: While you’re getting your money’s worth, the $150 price tag is a shock when compared to the $20-60 price tags you find on lower-end keyboards. People used to large dedicated media keys independent of the traditional key layout (such as the large buttons and volume controls found on many modern keyboards) might be off put by the Fn-key style media controls on the CODE. The Verdict: The keyboard is clearly and heavily influenced by the needs of serious typists. Whether you’re a programmer, transcriptionist, or just somebody that wants to leave the lengthiest article comments the Internet has ever seen, the CODE keyboard offers a rock solid typing experience. Yes, $150 isn’t pocket change, but the quality of the CODE keyboard is so high and the typing experience is so enjoyable, you’re easily getting ten times the value you’d get out of purchasing a lesser keyboard. Even compared to other mechanical keyboards on the market, like the Das Keyboard, you’re still getting more for your money as other mechanical keyboards don’t come with the lovely-to-type-on Cherry MX Clear switches, back lighting, and hardware-based operating system keyboard layout switching. If it’s in your budget to upgrade your keyboard (especially if you’ve been slogging along with a low-end rubber-dome keyboard) there’s no good reason to not pickup a CODE keyboard. Key animation courtesy of Geekhack.org user Lethal Squirrel.       

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  • java serial I/O: handling USB serial connection/disconnection in a robust manner

    - by Jason S
    I'm using rxtx for serial I/O handling in Java with an FTDI2232H that provides a USB comm port. It works great, with one exception: if I unplug the USB cable, so that the COM port disappears at runtime, it spews exceptions left and right: java.io.IOException: No error in nativeavailable at gnu.io.RXTXPort.nativeavailable(Native Method) at gnu.io.RXTXPort$SerialInputStream.read(RXTXPort.java:1427) at gnu.io.RXTXPort$SerialInputStream.read(RXTXPort.java:1339) and when I re-plug the cable in again, it does not recover. Is there any way to get rxtx to work properly with USB comm port connection/disconnection? (I've tried to post to the rxtx mailing list but for some strange reason I cannot send messages even though I am subscribed to the list. I've emailed the list admin and have gotten no response.) If not, is there another serial I/O framework that does?

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  • linux: disable using loopback and send data via wire between 2 eth cards of one comp

    - by osgx
    Hello I have a comp with 2 eth cards, connected with patch-cord (direct eth. cable from 1st to 2nd). The linux is installed, I want to send data from 1st network card to 2nd. And I want to force the packet to pass via cable. I can set up any ip on cards. With ping I get counters on cards constant. Is it possible with tcp/ip sockets? PS. I need to write a program. which will send packets via eth, so stackoverflow-related question. There can be some OS-dependent way, they will help me too

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