Search Results

Search found 2066 results on 83 pages for 'cable'.

Page 30/83 | < Previous Page | 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37  | Next Page >

• What is the best way to connect 3 switches with a router?

  - by Carlos Morales

  Hello everyone, I'm trying to rebuild the network from my work and I was thinking what is the best way to connect three switches and a router. The router has 4 ports so I thought to connect 2 switches to the router (each switch connected with 2 cables to the router) and then connect the third switch to one of the others with two cables. So is like this, two cables from switch one to the router, two cables from switch two to the router and two cables from switch 3 to switch 1 or 2. So my questions are: Is it better to connect the router to each switch with a cable or the more cables you have the better? If I connect the switch 3 to switch 1 or 2 is it better to connect it with a cable or you get better performance with more cables. If I'm wrong and there is a better or more efficient way to connect them please let me know. The router is a Netgear RP114 (I'll upgrade it to a Sonicwall NSA 240), switch 1 is a Netgear GS748T, switch 2 is a Cisco Catalyst 2924-XL and switch 3 is a D-link DGS-1024D Thank you very much

  Read the article

• Windows Firewall Software to Filter Transit Traffic

  - by soonts

  I need to test my networking code for Nintendo Wii under the conditions when some specific Internet server is not available. Wii is connected to my PC with crossover ethernet cable. PC has 2 NICs. PC is connected to hardware router with ethernet cable. The hardware router serves as NAT and has an internet connected to its uplink. I set the Wii to be in the same lan as PC by using Windows XP Network bridge. I can observe the WII network traffic using e.g. Wireshark sniffer. Is there a software firewall that can selectively filter out transit traffic? (e.g. block outgoing TCP connections to 123.45.67.89 to port 443) I tried Outpost Pro 2009 and Comodo. Outpost firewall blocks all transit traffic with it's implicit "block transit packet" rule. If the transit traffic is explicitly allowed by creating the system-wide low level rule, then it's allowed completely and no other filter can selectively block it. Comodo firewall only process rules when the packet has localhost's IP as either source or destination, allowing the rest of the traffic. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! P.S. Platform is Windows XP 32 bit, no other OSes is allowed, Windows ICS (Internet Connection Sharing) doesnt work since the Wii is unable to connect, becides I don't like the idea of adding one more level of NAT.

  Read the article

• Few questions about a good projector on my PC and tv?

  - by jasondavis

  I have always wanted a projector for my tv, satelite, cable, and even PC in a spare bedroom. Well it's more of a home office that I spend most my time in and the catch here is it is a small room. Room is only the standard 8foot tall. Room is about 13 feet wide on the wall where I would like to mount the project and the wall where the screen would be for it. So only about 13 feet away from projector to screen. I would like to know... 1) From experience or knowledge what would be a good projector I could hook up to my satelite box and also my PC? Cheaper is better in this case but I would still like the best image for my buck and something reliable. There is no sunlight in the room either to worry about. 2) From that distance of about 12-13 feet away, how big of a clear picture could I expect? 3) What kind of cables would I need to purchase and run through my attic to my cable/satelite receiver box as well as my PC? 4) These cables in question 3 would most likely need to be a good 15-20feet in length to reach, would I need anything special for that to work at those distances?

  Read the article

• CentOS Latency High Troubleshooting

  - by Sarah Weinberger

  I have two CentOS servers connected via a 10 Gb fiber optic cable with a network emulator connected between them. All three units sit on a desk in the lab. There is also a regular 1 Gbit Ethernet cable connected to each of the machines, which provide internet connectivity. When I set the latency to something roughly below 30 ms, all is fine. When the latency gets to 70ms and above, and definitely 130ms, the network layer suspends. For instance, if I set the latency (delay) to 70ms, then launching TeamViewer (or any other application that uses network connectivity) never happens or does not work. There is no timeout message, simply no response. I have to lower to latency back down to zero to see any response and have the box start working. What is the problem and how would I go about fixing it? It seems to me some sort of setting in Linux causes one of the CentOS networking drivers to sit in an infinite loop or something. eth0 is the connection to the internet, all settings are default eth2 is the 10 Gbit fiber optic connection to the other computer with the MTU set to 9600 with all other parameters at default values.

  Read the article

• Router not connecting to the internet

  - by Peter

  I had a weird problem this morning with my router - it's an Alice Gate VoIP 2 Plus WI-FI - not connecting to the internet after more or less 1 hour online (I'm always connected with the ethernet cable). The led status lights for Power, WI-FI, ADSL, Internet, Service should be on in order to be connected and navigate online. The problem was that the leds ADSL, Internet were off and I did not know why because it never happened before. I looked at the stats in the settings and the numbers for Bytes/Packages for both Sent/Received were there and increasing but I couldn't connect to the internet. I called tech support, they checked and told me to keep the router on for 48 hours because they were checking it. I've reset it twice before and after I called tech support and it still did not work so after about 2 hours of waiting I tried connecting using WI-FI and the leds 'magically' turned on, first the ADSL and Internet(Internet led always turns on last). At this point I'm curious what could of caused this and I'm doubting that the tech-support guys did something. What could of been the problem with the ethernet cable not connecting in the first place? It always works. What do the tech support guys normally do when they tell me to keep the router on so they can 'check it'? PS: I'm using ubuntu 32 bit

  Read the article

• Computer sending data while turned off

  - by Nicklas Ansman

  I have a some what strange problem (which could have and easy and obvious solution for all I know). My problem is that when I've booted ubuntu (now 10.4 but same problem with 9.10) and turns it off it starts sending a HUGE amount of data via the ethernet cable, so much in fact that my router can't handle it and stops responding. As far as I can tell the computer is completely turned off with no fans spinning. I can add that if I boot windows I do not have this problem, just when exiting ubuntu. There are two "fixes" for my problem: Pull the ethernet cable until the next boot Turn off power to the PSU and wait for the capacitors to unload Is there anyone who knows what could be going on? I'd be happy to post some logs or conf-files. Currently I'm using the ethernet port on my motherboard which is a Asus P6T Deluxe V2 with an updated version of the BIOS (maybe not the latest but since it only happens when I've been in ubuntu I don't wanna mess with the BIOS too much). Regards Nicklas ---------Update 1---------- The router is a D-Link DIR 655 with the latest firmware. ---------Update 2---------- I've now reinstalled ubuntu (with 10.4) and I still experience the same problem.

  Read the article

• How to connect a USB GDI printer to Linux over a D-Link print server?

  - by jpe

  The setup is the following: +------------+ +-----------------+ +---------+ | HP LJ P1005|--USB--| D-Link DPR-1020 |---LAN---| PC Linux| +------------+ +-----------------+ + +---------+ | +------------+ +--| PC Windows | +------------+ HP LJ P1005 is one of those GDI printers that requires the printer driver to do most of the work for it and therefore is a bit "special". D-Link DPR-1020 is a print server with an Ethernet and an USB port that actually supports printing to challenged (read GDI) printers using a utility called PS-Link. What the utility does is basically mirror a USB port over the network to the print server so that the printer driver and the printer both are happy to talk to each other. The PC-s are notebooks that come and go, i.e. are not there all the time. Is there an equivalent of the D-Link PS-Link utility for Linux that could mirror a USB port over the network for a Linux host? And can the solution be used with D-Link DPR-1020? If not then I basically wasted the money buying the print server because the goal was to share a small printer among a couple of users with diverse operating systems in an office. The print server specs say that it supports Linux and LJ P1005, but the Catch 22 appears to be the solution used for GDI printers... It should be noted that it is possible to print from Linux to LJ P1005 directly over USB. This far sharing involved reconnecting the USB cable to appropriate computer to print. Now one of the desks is separated, so the cable does not work. Searching the net did not yield anything useful. Please do not suggest solutions involving a Windows machine (either virtual or not), my question is whether a solution only involving a Linux machine exists.

  Read the article

• Resolving loss of internet bandwidth in home network

  - by Caspar

  Recently, I've decided to connect my laptop at home to my modem/router through Ethernet cables built into my apartment. As these built-in Ethernet cables are usable via plugs built into the walls (called powerline adapters), I use some additional cabling (STP CAT6 cables) from my laptop/router to the plugs. In addition, I don't know any technical details about these built-in cables (as they're not visible), only the maximal bandwidth (1 GBit = Cat6?) that they're supporting. The built-in cables are Cat. 5e Ethernet cables. The problem is now that when I set up the connection, I cannot use the full bandwidth that my internet connection is actually offering (100 Mbit/s), only about 85 Mbit/s between 85 - 88 Mbit/s, despite the fact that all cables involved should support the maximal bandwidth. I know from other tests with one of the Ethernet cables in use that I can use almost 99 Mbit/s when I connect my laptop directly to the router/modem using only this one cable. In addition, it is very unlikely that the length of the resulting cable connection from my laptop to my router involving the built-in cables exceeds 100 m. So, what possible reasons for this loss of bandwidth exist? And how I can fix this issue? I hope this might help resolve the issue: The built-in cables appear to be Cat. 5e Ethernet cables. So, is there any problem when I connect Cat6 Ethernet cables directly to Cat5e Ethernet cables via the plugs?

  Read the article

• Attaching 3.5" desktop drive to MacBook SATA

  - by Kyle Cronin

  I have a mid-2007 MacBook that, according to the Apple Store, has suffered some liquid damage and requires a new logic board to operate correctly, a ~$750 repair I've been told (would normally be around ~$300 were it not for the "liquid damage"). The unit itself works fine - the only problem I've been having is that the system does not recognize the battery and will not charge it. Curiously, the system can still be powered by the battery and even recognizes when the power cord is detached by diming the backlight, but I digress. Now that this laptop will likely become a desktop, I'm wondering if it might be possible to attach a desktop drive. I recently purchased a 2TB SATA drive and I'm wondering if it's possible to somehow attach it where the current internal drive connects. Obviously the drive itself will not fit inside the device, but as the unit will spend the rest of its days on my desk, that's not really much of an issue. My main questions are: Is this possible? If so, how would I connect the drive? Would a SATA extender cable work? Is the SATA port on my MacBook capable of powering a desktop drive? Or should I just get a SATA male-to-female cable and see if I can power the drive through other means (a cheap power supply, for example) The disk I'm referring to is the Hitachi Deskstar HD32000. Though I couldn't find that exact model on Hitachi's support site, these are the power requirements for a similar drive, the 7K2000 (2TB, 7200RPM, SATA II): Power Requirement +5 VDC (+/-5%) +12 VDC (+/-10%) Startup current (A, max.) 1.2 (+5V), 2.0 (+12V) Idle (W) 7.5 From what I've read, 2.5" drives require 5V, meaning that my MacBook obviously is capable of producing it. The specs seem to suggest that this drive seems capable of accepting it instead of the typical 12V - is this an accurate interpretation of the power requirements? Or does it need both 12V and 5V?

  Read the article

• Can't Configure IBM 8275-416 Switch Via Serial

  - by Sean M

  I am attempting to configure an IBM 8275-416 switch (I found a manual here) via serial connection. However, when I connect with HyperTerminal, the output contains a lot of garbage characters. It's pretty much unusable, because there's enough layout-breaking text-gunk that it's very difficult to determine what's actually being displayed. . I was able to reset the switch to factory defaults via the terminal interface, so I know that it's not entirely broken. It also performs basic functions all right (i.e., you plug in clients and Ethernet cables - they can connect to clients plugged into other ports) - but I'd like it to do more than that (VLANs yay). I don't know if its in-band UI is operational or not, because I can't get the terminal interface to behave well enough to properly turn on the web/SNMP UI. So that's not available. Things I've tried: - Changing the encoding: HyperTerminal lets me choose between Standard JIS and Shift-JIS. Neither setting fixes the issue. - Checking emulation settings: The manual demands VT100, 19200 baud, 8 data bits, and such: I have faithfully applied these settings, both in HyperTerminal's settings and in the properties of the COM1 port in Device Manager (connecting from a Windows machine). - Restoring to factory defaults: See above. Things that it could be, but that seem unlikely: - Cabling: Couldn't find a proper null-modem cable, so used two 232-to-RJ45 adapters. But if it was a problem with the cable, wouldn't it be more likely to not connect or do input at all, rather than just garble the text? Since I was actually able to perform the reset-to-factory defaults operation, I don't think it's this. - Device as a whole broken: It is a decade and change old, so it's possible that it's just dying slowly. Again, though, it seems like there would be more symptoms than just garbled text in the terminal. What else can I try to get a sane interface to this switch?

  Read the article

• Why does my Intel Tolapai network chip not transmit packets?

  - by Hanno Fietz

  I'm trying to deploy an embedded system (NISE 110 by Nexcom) based on the Intel EP80579 (Tolapai) chip. Tolapai apparently integrates controllers for Ethernet etc. on a single chip (Intel homepage). The machine can't get a network connection. Diagnosis as far as I could manage: Drivers drivers from Intel compiled and installed without problems (version 1.0.3-144). Kernel version and Linux distribution (CentOS 5.2, 2.6.18) match the driver's installation instructions. drivers are loaded and show up in lsmod (module names are gcu and iegbe) interfaces eth0 and eth1 show up in ifconfig ifconfig I can bring up the interfaces with fixed IP pinging the interface locally works ifconfig shows flag UP but not RUNNING Link ethtool shows "Link detected: no", "Speed: unknown (65536)" and "Duplex: unknown (255)" Link LED is on on the other side of the cable, ethtool shows "Link detected: yes" and reports a speed of 1000 Mbps, which has allegedly been auto-neogotiated with the problematic device. Network traffic analysis the device does not reply on ARP, ICMP echo or anything else (iptables is down) when trying to send ICMP or DHCP requests, they never reach the other end activity LED is off on the device, on at the other end. I tried the following without any effect: Different cables (2 straight, one crossed), I get the link LED lit up on each. Three different devices on the other end (one PC, one netbook, one router) Fixed ARP table entries on both sides Connecting both network ports of the machine with each other, won't ping through the cable, but will ping locally. Tried straight and crossed cables for that.

  Read the article

• Network connection keeps dropping - bad hardware?

  - by Bill Sambrone

  Hello all, I've into a bit of a wall with a client of mine. In an office of 20 people, he is the only one who experiences broken connections to his mapped network drives. I have everyone set up with about 6 mapped drives, all pointing to the same server (no DFS), and everyone else can access them lightning fast. The environment consists of a mix of Windows 7 and XP machines, all 32-bit. The server holding the data everyone is mapping to is running on Server 2008 R2, and is a domain controller. We recently swapped out their old 10/100 switch for a shiny new Dell PowerConnect gigabit switch. We have also replaced an old dying Sonicwall with a shiny new one. Everything is running on an ESX host except for the DC, where everyone is getting data from. In my client's office, we have done the following: Swapped out his computer (Win7 and XP box) Swapped out the desktop switch in his office Removed the desktop switch in his office Changed out the network cable going to the wall Ran 'net config server /autodisconnect:-1' on the server Disabled remote differential compression on his current Win7 box When we swapped out his network cable, everything seemed fine for about 4 days. Normally I would get a phone call a couple times per day letting me know that Outlook has crashed (there is a 9GB PST living on the server he is always connected to), or that his software he is running from his L drive has crashed. I almost thought I had this solved, but after we rebooted the DC the other night he all of a sudden couldn't stay connected to his mapped network drives for more than 10 minutes. When I ran 'net use' from the command prompt, it listed all the network drives where were randomly in a state of 'OK', 'Disconnected', or 'Reconnecting'. What else should I try? Maybe there is bad wiring in the wall, patch panel, or a bad port in the new switch I have in the server room?

  Read the article

• How can I connect my Xbox to my Mac on my network

  - by codecowboy

  I have a wireless router/modem (Router 1) in my living room. This is connected to the internet (cable). Wireless is disabled as the router has a terrible wireless range. My Xbox is connected via ethernet to Router 1. Another LAN output from Router 1 connects to a powerline adapter. Router 1 acts as a DHCP server on 192.168.0.x and has the IP 192.168.0.1 In a second room I have Router 2. This has the powerline feed from Router 1 going into the WAN socket. This router runs the Tomato Firmware and acts as a wireless router for the rest of the house using the IP range 192.168.1.x. Router 2 IP is 192.168.1.1. My Mac is connected to Router 2 using a LAN cable and has the IP 192.168.0.133. Several mobile devices need wireless access. I want an ethernet connection to my Mac, not wireless. I should be able to use software like Connect360 to share media from my Mac to the XBox but the XBox does not see my Mac. I can ping 192.168.0.1 from the Mac. Is this possible using my current setup? If so, how?

  Read the article

• Two monitors with Mac Mini - one displays black despite receiving a signal

  - by alex

  My Mac Mini outputs to my two new monitors - Dell U2311Hs. The LED on the bezel displays blue when receiving a signal, or yellow otherwise. Both screens are displaying blue. It also seems my Mini can see both of them... However, one of them is black. It just displays black, but appears to be receiving a signal (when I turn the Mac off, it then displays No Signal). To make things weirder, on startup, the boot up (white with Apple logo) appears on the right monitor (the one that now displays black). Occasionally, it flickers up on the black screen for 1 second. I have tried Detect Displays. It appears to do nothing. I'm also running a dual monitor KVM. Video connections are DVI-D. How can I fix this situation? Thanks. Update This is the weirdest thing - I used the DVI-D cable that came with the KVM and it seems to have fixed it - I didn't both because it looks identical to any other DVI cable (in form an pin out). So, I will accept an answer if someone can tell me what may be the difference in these cables?

  Read the article

• How to get data from a borked Windows Home Server

  - by harhoo

  Yesterday we had a power surge, followed by a power outage. This left my WHS borked: powering on just gives to a flashing blue light (the led on the power supply also flashes green) - no fan or boot activity, nothing. I urgently needed some files off there in the short term (and the 500GB of photos, music, personal video etc in the long term) so I took the hard drive out and put it in my computer. The files and folders showed up, but I couldn't access them - clicking on an image gave an invalid image error in Picasa, I couldn't play MP3s etc. I changed the ownership and permissions of the files, still nothing. I booted in with a LiveCD, the same: files appear, but won't open. Is there anything else I can do? I'm now wondering if it was just the power cable that's broken, but if so, why can;t I access my files from the hard drive? If it is the power cable, and I replace that and the hard drive, will I have done any harm messing around with ownership and file permissions?

  Read the article

• Hardware issue, bsod with windows xp irq and strange messages with ubuntu

  - by JP Hellemons

  I have an old Acer T160 and it used to run Windows XP. But I keep getting random BSOD's. I keep seeing IRQ conflicts. I tried to run ubuntu, which runs and keeps running. But sometimes is not responding. Also there are these popups at ubuntu 12.04 that my network cable (which is onboard) is unplugged. But I have no cable in it! and have an usb dongle for wifi. which also seems unstable. have to (auto)reconnect sometimes. So my question is: is it my mobo, power supply or something else? FYI: I had an dvd-rw station which did not open properly, so unplugged the ata and power, als removed the second harddrive. now only have sata harddrive. also removed the extra video card (ati sapphire x1600 pro) so use only onboard video now and still have these issues. EDIT Update: will try with a new PSU (power supply unit of 400watt) the old (factory) one was 300watt. and will use a usb drive which has 12.04 ubuntu on it (made with unetbootin) to format everything and re-install ubuntu. (so also delete mbr partition) will update the day after tomorrow.

  Read the article

• Intel Ethernet Bottlenecking Internet?

  - by Donald Darma

  I'm having trouble with my internet speeds. So I just recent build a pc and everything is fine. I installed the Intel drivers and connected to the internet. It connects but I'm only half the speed I should be getting. My normal speed is 20mbps but speedtest.net is only showing 10. It can't be my ISP (which is TWC if anyone is asking) because my other devices like my laptop and my smartphone are showing 20 down. Heres my system: CPU: i5 4430 HSF: Stock cooler Mobo: Gigabyte Z87MX-D3H GPU: x2 MSI R7950-3GD5/OC BE RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB dual channel PSU: Silencer High Performance Power Supply 750 Watt 80+ (It's a subdivision of OCZ) HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3TB SSD: Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D Edit: I am using the stock adapter that is on the motherboard. I know for a fact that the cable is good because I used it on my laptop and it ran fine. Its a CAT5E cable. I also ran IPERF and its giving me the same results, 10 mbps.

  Read the article

• Gigabit LAN not working on ASUS M2N-MX

  - by chmod

  Today I replace my FastEthernet switch with a newly bought gigabit switch (DGS-1008A). All computers in my house are displaying that the connection speed is 1 Gbps except for one. The computer that is not working is an ASUS M2N-MX which contain an onboard gigabit NIC. See ASUS link for confirmation http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2/M2NMX/ Here are some info of the machine OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64bit BIOS version: 1004 (latest) Driver: installed via Windows update (latest from Windows update) Windows Update: fully updated The machine is reformatted 3 days ago, so it's pretty clean, no junk, no virus, etc Cable: Amp CAT5E 5 meters In device manager, the name of the NIC is "NVIDIA nForce 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet" What I have try: I did try to install the driver provided in ASUS website, but there isn't any for Windows 7 64 or Vista 64. I did try to install the latest nForce340/6100, downloaded from Nvidia website. However, the LAN driver refuse to install, it complain that I already have the best driver installed. I looking in the property -- advance tab -- Speed/duplex settings, in an attempt to force it to run at 1000Mbps, but there is no 1000Mbps choice, only 10 and 100Mpbs. I change the CAT5E cable (use one from another computer that is running gigabit without problem) Anyone have this issue or know how to solve it? Thanks

  Read the article

• How to monitor bandwidth use of each device on wifi network

  - by GWLlosa

  I have in my home a standard Comcast cable internet connection. I have it going from the wall to a cable modem, and from the modem to a late-series Linksys router, which provides wired and wireless networking. The vast majority of the users are wireless connections. For day-to-day tasks, this connection is fully sufficient for all my needs. However, on regular occassions, we have social gatherings that involve many people bringing laptops and other PCs and using the network and internet simultaneously, frequently for gaming. I have no administrative oversight over these machines; they have been known to be riddled with spyware and/or bloatware or be running torrents, legal or otherwise. The only reason I care is that on a regular basis, one of the machines will flatline my internet bandwith, and consume it all in order to upload/download/spam people/whatever. When this happens, the latency of the connections for gaming and the like becomes unacceptable, and everyone suffers. My question is: Is there a system I can set up whereby I can easily monitor the various systems connected to my wireless connection, see how much bandwith each one is using, and for what ends? That way, at a glance, I can spot the offending machine and kick it from the connection, without having to go from machine to machine, checking each one's "bandwith used" properties manually, and dealing with the owner's indignant protests all the while. I understand this will likely involve 3rd-party software and/or hardware; my issue is I don't even know where to begin.

  Read the article

• RouterLess, house-wired network using multiple powerline adapters

  - by Cliff Arnell

  related to the 'old days' of one ethernet cable tapped with Ts for each monitor.... my question might be very simple... or not. I have an over-the-air internet provider with a wire dish with a powered transceiver and cat5 cable out of the providers supplied modem. I'm presently connecting the output of the modem into my wireless router which sends the internet signal all over the house. Standard stuff, I believe. My Question. Can I just connect the output of the modem into 1 powerline adapter and tie all my equipment such as computer, printer, laptop, Tivo recorder, etc. into 1-each local powerline adapters located near each devices resulting in a 'house-wired' network and no router? I'm bothered by the idea that my over-the-air provider might be using something in my router to establish and keep my IP connection alive. I did have to configure the router for my IP, a router which, in my proposed scenario, would no longer exist. Thank you for your help.

  Read the article

• realtek lan driver problem - win 7

  - by tango _123

  Hi, my new notebook (ACER TM 8371) with Win 7(x32) professional as OS, has strage behaviour with respect to LAN. when I plug or unplug my charger cable, or my notebook goes in stad-by, or just a do nothing, the netwrok connection is lost. All the energy savings functionbality have been in-activated. if i check the network adapter information, it says "a network cabel is unplugged or corrupted", but it is not true.....the cable is in and it is not corrupted (i tried several which works on other machines). if a tried to di-habilitate and hence re-habilitate, it allows di-habilitation and not to further re-habilitate (it says "no driver for the network card" are available). in some cases, also, the driver disappears (i cannot see it anylonger). if i restart the notebook, everything comes back to normality, but.....today in 3 hours i had to restart 6 times!!! can anyone help me? win 7 says the driver is the last one, so no need to update it. here are some techinical information aboiut network card and driver: Name [00000015] Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Adapter type Ethernet 802.3 Product type Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Installated YES ID device PNP PCI\VEN_10EC&DEV_8168&SUBSYS_02831025&REV_02\4&266E4C4F&0&00E2 last reset 20/11/2009 11:27 Index 15 Service name RTL8167 I/O Port 0x0000FF00-0x0000FFFF Memory address 0xE2500000-0xE2500FFF Memory address 0xE1400000-0xE140FFFF IRQ Channel IRQ 18 Driver c:\windows\system32\drivers\rt86win7.sys (7.3.522.2009, 164,00 KB (167.936 Byte), 28/08/2009 22:12)

  Read the article

• How To Monitor Home Wireless Network Connected Devices Bandwith

  - by GWLlosa

  (Originally posted on SuperUser, not sure if it might be better suited here) I have in my home a standard Comcast cable internet connection. I have it going from the wall to a cable modem, and from the modem to a late-series Linksys router, which provides wired and wireless networking. The vast majority of the users are wireless connections. For day-to-day tasks, this connection is fully sufficient for all my needs. However, on regular occassions, we have social gatherings that involve many people bringing laptops and other PCs and using the network and internet simultaneously, frequently for gaming. I have no administrative oversight over these machines; they have been known to be riddled with spyware and/or bloatware or be running torrents, legal or otherwise. The only reason I care is that on a regular basis, one of the machines will flatline my internet bandwith, and consume it all in order to upload/download/spam people/whatever. When this happens, the latency of the connections for gaming and the like becomes unacceptable, and everyone suffers. My question is: Is there a system I can set up whereby I can easily monitor the various systems connected to my wireless connection, see how much bandwith each one is using, and for what ends? That way, at a glance, I can spot the offending machine and kick it from the connection, without having to go from machine to machine, checking each one's "bandwith used" properties manually, and dealing with the owner's indignant protests all the while. I understand this will likely involve 3rd-party software and/or hardware; my issue is I don't even know where to begin.

  Read the article

• DSL Connection drops

  - by user60024

  Ok, I just moved so I had to switch from Cable to DSL. I know very little about computers or internet connections and such, so I had AT&T come out to the new house to set up their highest speed. When they got here, they told me that I needed to downgrade to 3.5mbps because I was too far away. Well we did and everything was going great for two days until I started experiencing random disconnects which have been happening now for about 2 to 3 weeks. I am using a N300 Wireless Dual Band ADSL2+ Modem Router and my ethernet cable is hooked directly into my computer from it. I recently started to notice that it disconnects around 5:30 and 8:30, which may be because a lot of people are on their computers(?) and that it works perfectly fine, almost, all the time if I'm not playing a game. During this time, when I try to load up World of Warcraft the Internet light disappears and the DSL light begins blinking. (So maybe it's too much for the modem and it resets?) Other than that it is amazing, but I'd like to try and fix some of these problems. If you need more information, let me know on how to get it for you and what to do. Thanks for the help!

  Read the article

• How can I pair two bluetooth dongles together?

  - by techaddict

  I want to hack a device which connects via USB, and plug a bluetooth USB dongle to the end of the USB cable (using a female to female adapter), and then connect to that device from another USB bluetooth dongle connected to my computer. How can I do this? It is straightforward? I don't want to spend $30 before I know how to do this. Also I think another concern is that the USB cable is providing power to the device. So I think that means I would also have to hack it for power. I have created this diagram in Photoshop to illustrate my intent: (NOTE: it won't be a USB mouse, as that would be pointless because there are already wireless mice in existence. The mouse is displayed for illustrative purposes) Don't tell me "it won't work". Because I KNOW it WILL work. Think for example, PS3 controller. That works, and in fact I was able to get it working with my laptop, over bluetooth. I just want to know HOW to make it work.

  Read the article

• Disable internal display on Macbook Pro without closed lid mode?

  - by jslaker

  I have an early 2007 Macbook Pro running 10.5 that I've recently set up on a KVM with my primary desktop system. The problem I've run into is that I have a 20" 1680x1050 LCD, and OS X only provides options to mirror at the resolution of the built-in display or to span. Since the built-in display runs at 1440x900, this leads to running my LCD at non-native res and a fuzzy picture. There isn't any option that I can find to simply disable the built-in display entirely and run the external LCD at its native resolution. I am aware of closed lid mode, but the MBP was disassembled while in storage for about 6 months (took it apart to pull the HDD) and the cable to the touchpad, which controls the sleep sensor was damaged, meaning closed lid mode won't work. I've looked into replacing the cable, but the cheapest I've been able to find it is $75-100, and I'm trying not to invest any more money into this computer as it also has a completely dead battery and a few other minor problems. I've found the app SwitchResX which appears to allow you to do what I need, but it has a lot of functionality I don't need and a ~$20 registration charge attached to it. An odd set of circumstances, I'm aware, but I was hoping somebody might know of an OS hack that would let me just disable the internal display and be done with it. :)

  Read the article

< Previous Page | 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37  | Next Page >