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  • My computer freezes irregularly

    - by Manhim
    My computer started to freeze at irregular times for 3 weeks now. Please note that this question change with each things that i try. (For additional details) What happens My computer freezes, the video stops. (No graphic glitches, it just stops) Sound keeps playing up to some time (Usually 10-30 seconds) then stops playing. Sometimes, randomly, the screen on my G-15 keyboard flickers and I see caracters not at the right places. Usually happens for about 1-2 seconds and a bit before my computer freezes. I have to keep the power button pressed for 4 seconds to shut my computer down. I still hear my hard drives and fans working. Sometimes it works with no problems for a full day, some other times it just keeps freezing each time I restart my computer and I have to leave it for the rest of the day. Sometimes my mouse freezes for a fraction of a second (Like 0.01 to 0.2 seconds) quite randomly, usually before it freezes. No errors spotted by the "Action center" unlike when I had problems with my last video card on this system (Driver errors). My G-15 LCD screen also freezes. Sometimes my G-15 LCD screen flickers and caracters gets caried around temporary under heavy load. Now, most of the times, the BIOS hard disks boot order gets reversed for some reason and I have to put it to the right one and save each times I boot. (Might be unrelated, not sure, but it first started yesterday) Sometimes the BIOS doesn't detect my 750GB hard drive plugged in SATA1. What I did so far I have had similar problems in the past and I had changed my hard drive (It was faulty), so I tested my software RAID-0 array and it was faulty so I changed it. (I reinstalled Windows 7 with this part). I also tested with unplugging my secondary hard drive. My CPU was running at about 100 degree Celsius, I removed the dust between the fans and the heatsink and it's now between 45-55. I ran a CPU stress-test and it didn't freeze during the tests (using Prime95 on all cores) Ran a memory test (using memtest86+) for a single pass and there were no errors. Ran a GPU stress test with ati-tools and furmark and it didn't freeze during the tests. (No artefacts either) I had troubles with my graphic card when I got it, but I think that it got fixed with a driver update. I checked the voltages in my BIOS setup and they all seemed ok (±0.2 I think). I have ran on the computer without problems with Fedora 15 on an external hard drive (Appart that it couldn't load Gnome 3 and was reverting to Gnome 2, didn't want to install drivers since I use it on multiple computers) I used it to backup my files from the raid array to my 1TB hard drive for the reinstallation of Windows. (So the crashes only happenned on Windows) [The external hard drive is plugged directly on a SATA port] I contacted EVGA (My graphic card vendor) and pointed them on this question, I'm looking for an answer. Ran sensors on Fedora 15 and got this output: http://pastebin.com/0BHJnAvu Ran 6 short different CPU stress test on Fedora 15 (Haven't found any complete stress testers for Linux) and it didn't crash. Changed the thermal paste to some Artic Silver 5 for my CPU and stress tested the CPU, temperature was at 50 idle, then 64 highest and slowly went down to 62 during the test. Ran some stress testing with a temporary graphic card and it went ok. Ran furmark stress test with my original graphic card and it freezed again. GPU had a temp of 74C, a CPU temp of 58C and a mobo temp of 40C or 45C (Dunno which one it is from SpeedFan). Ran a furmark stress test and a CPU stress test at the same time, results: http://pastebin.com/2t6PLpdJ I have been using my computer without stressing it for about 2 hours now and no crashes yet. I also have disabled the AMD Cool'n'quiet function on the BIOS for a more regular power to the CPU. When I ran Furmark without C'n'q my computer didn't freeze but I had a "Driver Kernel Error" that have recovered (And Furmark crashed) all that while running a CPU stress test. The computer eventually frozed without me being at it, but this time my screen just went on sleep and I couldn't wake it. Using the stability tester in nTune my computer freezed again (In the same manner as before). I notived that Speedfan gives me a -12V of -16.97V and a -5V of -8.78V. I wonder if these numbers are reliable and if they are good or bad. I have swapped my G-15 with another basic USB keyboard (HP) and I have ran furmark for about 10 minutes with a CPU stability test running each 60 seconds for 30 seconds and my computer haven't crashed yet. Ran some more extended tests without my G-15 and it freezed like it usually do. Removed the nForce Hard disk controler. Disabled command queuing in the NVIDIA nForce SATA Controller for both port 0 and port 1 (Errors from the logs) Used CPUID HwMonitor, here are the voltages: http://pastebin.com/dfM7p4jV Changed some configurations in the motherboard BIOS: Disabled PEG Link Mode, Changed AI Tuning to Standard, Disabled the 1394 Controller, Disabled HD Audio, Disabled JMicron RAID controller and Disabled SATA Raid. When it happens When I play video games (Mostly) When I play flash games (Second most) When I'm looking at my desktop background (It rarely happens when I have a window open, but it does, sometimes) When my Graphic card and my CPU are stressed. Sometimes when my Graphic card is stressed. Never happenned while stressing only the CPU. Sometimes when my CPU is stressed. Specs Windows Seven x64 Home Premium Motherboard: M2N-SLI Deluxe CPU: AMD Phenom 9950 x2 @ 2.6GHz Memory: Kingston 4x2GB Dual Channel (Pretty basic memory sticks) Hard drives: Was 2x250GB (Western digital caviar) in raid-0 + 1TB (WD caviar black), I replaced the raid array with a 750GB (WD caviar black) [Yes I removed the array from the raid configurations] 750W Power supply No overcloking. Ever. There have been some power-downs like 4-5 weeks ago, but the problem didn't start immediately after. (I wasn't home, so my computer got shut-down) Event logs (Warnings, errors and critical errors) for the last 24 hours: http://pastebin.com/Bvvk31T7 My current to-try list Reinstall the drivers and software 1 by 1 and do extensive stress testing between each. Update the BIOS firmware to the most recent stable one. Change my motherboard. Status updates Keeping only the last 3 (28/06 04pm) More stress testing and still pass the tests. (28/06 03pm) Been stress testing for 10 minute straight now and 5 minutes with both CPU and GPU being stressed at the same time. (28/06 03pm) Stress-testing right now, so far no problems. A little hope Tests with Furmark and Prime95. Testing Windows bare-bone: 30 Minutes stress, no freeze. Installing an Anti-virus and some software, restarting computer. Testing with Anti-virus and some software (No drivers installed): 30 Minutes stress, no freeze. Installing audio drivers, restarting computer. Testing with the audio drivers: 30 Minutes stress, no freeze. Installing the latest graphic drivers from EVGA's website (without 3d vision since I don't use it), restarting computer. Testing with the graphic drivers: 30 Minutes stress, no freeze. Configuring Windows to my liking and installing more softwares. In this situation, how can I successfully pin-point the current hardware problem? (If it's a hardware problem) Because I don't really have the budget to just forget and replace everything. I also don't really have hardware to test-replace current hardware.

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  • Acer Aspire ASE700-UQ660A will not respond to power button

    - by Tim R.
    This is something of a continuation of this question. I am now completely unable to boot this computer. The last time I used it, I used hibernation mode. When I needed to use it again, it would not respond at all to the power button, keyboard, or mouse. I tried: Holding down the power button for 15 seconds pressing the power button Unplugging the power cord for 30 seconds, plugging it back in, and trying again Removing the motherboard battery for over a minute and reinstalling it Before removing the motherboard battery, none of the lights on the front of the computer lit up. After reinstalling the battery and plugging the power cord back in, the light behind the power button is constantly illuminated (without even pressing the power button), but there is still no response to the power button, no fans turned on, nothing else that would indicate that it is running. System: Acer Aspire ASE700-UQ660A (Specs should be all factory defaults except:) 4 GB RAM Nvidia GeForce 8600 GT with driver version 197.45 Windows 7 Professional 64 bit

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  • EEE PC Keyboard malfunctioning - Ctrl key "sticks" after 10 seconds

    - by DWilliams
    I was given a EEE PC belonging to a friend of a friend to fix. The keyboard did not appear to work at all. I spent a while testing out various things, blowing the keyboard out, checking for damage, and so on. Nothing appeared to be physically wrong. At first I noticed that the keyboard appeared to work just fine for 10 seconds (on average, sometimes more sometimes less) after being powered on. It had been restored to the factory default xandros installation with no user set up, so I couldn't get in to mess with things since I couldn't type to make a user. I made an ubuntu live USB to boot it from, and managed to get the boot order changed to boot from USB in the ~10 seconds of working keyboard I had (I don't think I've ever had to rush around BIOS menus that quickly). After I got Ubuntu up on it, I played around a bit more and determined that apparently the ctrl key is stuck down (not literally, but it's on all the time). If I open gedit, pressing the "o" key brings the open dialog, "s" opens the save dialog, and all other behaviour you would expect to see if you were holding down the control key. The only exception that I noticed is the "9" and "0" keys. They function normally. Figuring that out I made a xandros user with a name/password consisting of 9's and 0's. I couldn't find any options in Xandros that could potentially be helpful. I'm not familiar with EEE PCs. Is it safe to assume that the keyboard is simply dead or could there be another problem? I don't want to purchase another keyboard for him if that isn't going to fix the problem. The netbook doesn't show any obvious signs of damage but the owner is a biker and very often has it with him on the road so it's been subjected to a good bit of vibration.

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  • Computer starts, POSTs normal, no video

    - by Annath
    So, I recently tried to start up an old computer of mine. It would not power on, so I replaced the PSU. When I powered it on, all the fans spun up and the POST beeps indicated a normal startup. The problem was there was no video output. Every couple of minutes, I hear the post code again. I think it is restarting after POST, but without video I have no idea why. Does anyone have an idea as to why this is happening, and how to fix it? EDIT: The video card is a PCI-e card. There is no integrated graphics on the motherboard. If I remove the video card, the POST indicates a missing card. When I put it back, it goes back to normal, so I know that it recognizes that the card exists.

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  • Why Does Wireless Gear Degrade Over Time?

    - by bahamat
    I saw this originally posted on slashdot, but their comment format is not conducive to actually getting a correct answer. Having directly experienced this phenomenon myself, I'm now asking here where I think I can actually get an educated answer. Here's the original question verbatim: Lately I have replaced several home wireless routers because the signal strength has been found to be degraded. These devices, when new (2+ years ago) would cover an entire house. Over the years, the strength seems to decrease to a point where it might only cover one or two rooms. Of the three that I have replaced for friends, I have not found a common brand, age, etc. It just seems that after time, the signal strength decreases. I know that routers are cheap and easy to replace but I'm curious what actually causes this. I would have assumed that the components would either work or not work; we would either have a full signal or have no signal. I am not an electrical engineer and I can't find the answer online so I'm reaching out to you. Can someone explain how a transmitter can slowly go bad? Common (incorrect, but repeated) answers from slashdot include: Back then your neighbors didn't have wifi, now they do. They drowning you out. I don't think this is likely because replacing the access point with a new one and using the same frequencies solves the problem. Older devices had low transmit power. Crank that baby. As mentioned by a FreeBSD wireless developer this violates regulations and can physically damage the equipment. It was also mentioned that higher power in one direction is not necessarily reciprocated. This shows higher bars, but not necessarily a better connection. Manufacturers make cheap crap designed to wear out. This one actually may be legitimate although it is overly broad. What specifically causes damage over time? Heat? Excessive power? So can anyone provide an informed answer on this? Is there any way to fix these older access points?

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  • My -tpl file won't update!

    - by Kyle Sevenoaks
    Hi, I am running the site at www.euroworker.no, it's a linux server and the site has a backend editor. It's a smarty/php site, and when I try to update a few of the .tpl's (two or three) they don't update. I have tried uploading through FTP and that doesn't work either. I have no knowledge of how servers work or anything, please help? It runs on the livecart system. Thanks!

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  • My -tpl file won't update!

    - by Kyle Sevenoaks
    Hi, I am running the site at www.euroworker.no, it's a linux server and the site has a backend editor. It's a smarty/php site, and when I try to update a few of the .tpl's (two or three) they don't update. I have tried uploading through FTP and that doesn't work either. I have no knowledge of how servers work or anything, please help? It runs on the livecart system. Thanks!

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  • Is my HDD dead forever?

    - by Roberto
    Yesterday I turned on my computer and it couldn't boot. I found out the hd (320GB SATA Seagate Momentus 7200.3 for notebook) was broken and it couldn't be recognized by the BIOS. I have another of the same hard drive, so I exchanged the boards. I found out that there is a problem on its board since my good hard drive didn't work. But the broken hard drive doesn't work with the good board as well: it can be recognized but when I insert a Windows Instalation DVD it says the hard drive is 0GB. I put it in a case and use it in another computer via USB, and but it doesn't show up in the "My Computer". I used a software to recover files called "GetDataBack for NTFS", it recognized the hard drive but with the wrong size (2TB). I try to make it read the hard drive but it got an I/O error reading sector. It tries to read, the hard drive spins up. So, since I'm using a good board on it, the problem seems to be internal. Is there anything someone could do to recover the files from it?

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  • Windows 7 - "A disk read error occured. Press Ctrl + Alt + Del to restart"

    - by Senthil
    Problem: When I switch on my PC, after BIOS POST, a cursor is blinking for about 5 seconds and then I am getting this error message: A disk read error occurred. Press Ctrl + Alt + Del to restart. I am able to go into BIOS. But Windows loader doesn't even start. This message is shown after my motherboard logo comes and goes. Symptoms: I DID notice my system freezing for minutes at a time for past two days. Also, in the past two days, it stopped half way through the Window booting process. I had to do hard reset couple of times to get it working. But since today morning, I only get this error message. Configuration: Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit only. Hard disk: 1 Physical Disk - 80GB SATA Partitions: Two (2) - C: and D: File System: NTFS No drive encryption or compression is turned on. After I searched on the net, I have found people mentioning these possible causes: Hard Disk is physically failing Corrupt MBR Bad Sector I am planning to buy a new hard disk, install Windows on it and continue. But I need data from the old hard disk. The data I want is in D: drive, outside any Windows user folder, is not encrypted or compressed or protected in anyway. I think if someone/something can get the disk working again and knows NTFS, the data can be hopefully read. What steps should I follow to recover files from the defective disk? Update: I bought a new disk, installed windows on it and added the defective one as a slave. Then I was able to read the data from the defective hard disk. Though chkdsk found lots of errors, the files I wanted were not affected and I got them back :) I am not using that hard disk anymore though it seems to be working at the moment.

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  • PC: Quick Freeze, then BSOD, then forced reboot, then freezes again

    - by cr0z3r
    Lately I have been experiencing a weird issue. My PC will hang for a second and then BSOD - it stays there, so I have to reboot. Once Windows starts again and I'm logged in, after 1-10min it freezes again, this time without BSOD. RECAP: 1 second freeze BSOD, hangs there I have to force-reboot Once PC rebooted, I log back into Windows second freeze between a 1-10min range, no BSOD (alternatively, I get a freeze with a constant sound/noise, no BSOD) I contacted my PC provider, who told me my graphics-card might be flawed (Quadro 4000), so I used a Quadro 2000 that they lend me. The issue still occurred. The issue now seemed to belong to a flawed RAM module. Following my provider's steps, I removed all but the first from the left column and kept using my PC for a week or so without any issues. I then added the bottom-right module, and so on, until all modules were back inside - I had no problems. Now it seemed that a simple take-out-put-back-in of the RAM modules had fixed the issue. However, after a few months, the issue was back. I redid all the RAM-swapping I had done before, and concluded that the lower-right module was flawed. My provider changed it for another, and everything was great until now. My PC froze again for barely a second, hanged on a BSOD, I rebooted it, logged-in to Windows to get a freeze (without BSOD or reboot) 40 seconds later. Something worth noting, is that every time I reboot after the BSOD, it is something within Chrome that freezes my PC (e.g. this time I clicked the "restore" button as Chrome mentioned it had exited unexpectedly - from the previous freeze obviously - and it instantly froze). Finally, the Event Viewer lists 2 critical events in the past hour as "ID: 41, Type: Kernel-Power". PC-Specs: http://i.imgur.com/VZpbr.jpg Previous Dump-files: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/716600/DumpFiles_08_2012.zip I would like to thank anybody in advance for your help. You're great. UPDATE 1: I realized that I did not mention an awkward fact about this issue. After I have gotten the 1-sec freeze followed by a BSOD, after I rebooted because the BSOD hanged, and after I logged back in to get another (this time, eternal) freeze and rebooted once again, the PC does not boot back up. The power-light is on, but my monitor says "no signal", as if the PC wouldn't really be turned on. This truly seems a like a power-related issue, doesn't it? UPDATE 2: I just got a freeze, but without BSOD. My screen froze (while on Chrome, which is starting to seem suspicious to me) with an ongoing sound/noise. I had to force-reboot my PC. I would say this is a graphics-card issue, but this issue also happened when I was using the Quadro 2000 from my provider. UPDATE 3: I just got a BSOD while trying to render something (quite heavy, actually) in 3ds Max 2012. I left the BSOD "running", as it said it was writing dump files to disk. However, the percentage number stayed at 0, so after 15 minutes I force-rebooted. I then used the software WhoCrashed (thank you Dave) which reported the following from the C:\Windows\Memory.dmp file: On Thu 22.11.2012 22:13:45 GMT your computer crashed crash dump file: C:\Windows\memory.dmp uptime: 01:05:27 This was probably caused by the following module: Unknown () Bugcheck code: 0x124 (0x0, 0xFFFFFA80275AC028, 0xF200001F, 0x100B2) Error: WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR Bug check description: This bug check indicates that a fatal hardware error has occurred. This bug check uses the error data that is provided by the Windows Hardware Error Architecture (WHEA). This is likely to be caused by a hardware problem problem. This problem might be caused by a thermal issue. A third party driver was identified as the probable root cause of this system error. It is suggested you look for an update for the following driver: Unknown . Google query: Unknown WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR

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  • How can I get data off of a Corsair SSD?

    - by user1870398
    My Corsair SSD won't work and I have some critical data on it that I didn't back up (I needed to create a copy of my mechanical storage device, just forgot). The drive isn't detected by the OS or BIOS. I also tried it on another system, but all that happened was the OS failed to load (my guess was that it knew the drive was there, just couldn't read it). I tried powering it on without the data cable for a bit of time to see if it'd work again, but it didn't. Any ideas of how I can get the data off of this drive without having to send it in?

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  • powerpoint make computer shut down on dell optiplex 760

    - by yael
    At my office we upgraded group of computers to windows 7 + office 2010, few of us have problem that when we work on powerpoint - once in a while the computer suddenly shut down (with out any message). Some of us - has no such problems. We checked and fount that the people who experience problems - use Dell Optiplex 760 PC, and everyone that have no problems use other models. We also found out that the processors of the 760's are not the same - some are Intel E7400 and one is Intel E8400, so I suspect that maybe the mother board is the problem Does any one no this problem? Does any one have an idea about it? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Yael

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  • Linksys WAP54G v3.1 no access, power and link LED solid

    - by user142113
    I'm managing the Network of a small enterprise. A Linksys WAP54G v3.1 used to provide the WiFi network. I was called, because the device did not provide a WiFi network anymore. I first of all tried to ping the device via LAN, but there was no reaction. I've frequently reconnected the AP to the mains and always the POWER and the LINK LED keep solid, even if no network cable is connected. What I've done yet: Reset as documented: Pressed the RESET button for 10 seconds. After that I have tried to access the AP with a direct cable connection to my computer, that I've set to a static ip of 192.168.1.240, but i got no ping response on the default IP 192.168.1.245. Furthermore ipconfig reports "media disconnected". More complex reset method as described here http://bruceshankle.blogspot.de/2005/12/how-to-reset-linksys-wap54g.html as well had no effect. also tried to ping 192.168.1.1 without success Tried this method: http://www.daniweb.com/hardware-and-software/networking/threads/142437/linksys-wireless-access-point-problem#post680245 but there was no ping response when powering up. As well the tftp transfer timed out Finally tried to short pin 15 and 16 of the flash chip on the bottom side of the AP mainboard while booting to provoke a Checksum error. This should lead to the possibility to upload a firmware with tftp, as the AP stops booting and waits for a tftp connection on 192.168.1.1. But I've had no success. As well i've put pin 15 and 16 to ground while booting, also without an effect. After all that I still can't ping the AP, ipconfig still tells me "media disconnected". The POWER and LINK LED are solid. I would appreciate your answers

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  • Windows 7 remains powered on when restarting

    - by BombDefused
    I'm running windows 7 x64 on an MSI P67A-GD53 motherboard, in an Antec P280 Super Midi Towercase with a Corsair 650w PSU. I've just installed a second instance of windows 7 x64 on a separate disk (this is to keep my games separate from my work OS). The problem is that it appears now that I cannot restart from either instance of Windows 7. The shut down command, and sleep commands work as expected. When I try to restart, the shutdown happens but the system never reboots. Everything remains powered on, until I hold down the power button to force the power off. Ithink (but am not 100% sure) this has only started since I installed the second OS, and am assuming this has something to do with the motherboard needing to know which OS to run up again? Some other forums I've read suggest that the PSU has a major role in restart and could be at fault. Changing the boot order of the disks in the BIOS does not change anything. Any suggestions greatfully recieved! Update: I now have a reproduceable issue: I think the secondary OS install may have been a red herring. It was when windows tried to reboot during the install that I noticed the issue. After playing around with installing drivers, and rebooting many many times, I have found that it is the OC genie setting on the MSI motherboard that seems to trigger the problem. This makes sense as I only started using the OC genie feature a couple of weeks ago, and probably hadn't used restart in that time. However... simply turning off OC genie does not make the issue go away. I have to turn off OC genie, shutdown, start enter bios, go to the "Save and Exit" menu "Restore Defaults" yes to "Load optimized defaults", which will reset to clear the problem. Now when the PC boots into windows, I can restart as normal (and from the OS on either HDD). I only know how to control the issue, and don't still know the root cause. I'd like to be able to use the OC genie function if anyone can suggest a why I'm seeing this problem. Could it be that I'm drawing too much power when using OC feature?

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  • Reinserted a RAID disk. Defined as foreign. Is import or clear the correct choice?

    - by Petrus
    I have re-inserted a RAID disk, on a DELL server with Windows Server 2008. The drive-status indicator was changing between a green and amber light, and the monitor gave the following message: There are offline or missing virtual drives with preserved cache. Please check the cables and ensure that all drives are present. Press any key to enter the configuration utility. I pressed a key and the PERC 6/I Integrated BIOS Configuration Utility showed that the RAID Status for that disk was Offline. After reinsertion of the disk the monitor is giving the following message: Foreign configuration(s) found on adapter. Press any key to continue or ‘C’ load the configuration utility, or press ‘F’ to import foreign configuration(s) and continue. After checking around on the net I am uncertain if I should choose import or clear. I cannot find out if an import means importing information from the array/system to the now foreign disk or the other way, i.e. importing information from the foreign disk to the array/system that was actually working fine. Also; if clear is a necessary thing to do ahead of a rebuild of that disk, or if clear means to clear the system to somehow make it ready to import the information from the foreign disk to the array/system, which is not what I want. I imagine that making the wrong choice here might be fatal. Please help clearing this out by telling what to choose and why.

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  • rm failing inside cron script

    - by Nicholas
    I have a cron job calling a bash script which runs fine, except for one line inside it that is suppose to remove all fines in a directory. The result of this line is always 'no such file or directory' even though I have verified (many times) that there are files in that directory. The line in question is as simply: rm /dir1/dir2/dir3/* The script works fine when run manually in the terminal, so it must be something about how the cron is run. I've tried giving 'dir3' and all the files inside it every permission possible, so it shouldn't be a permission problem. (The directory and files are also owned by the user). I've tried specifing 'SHELL=/bin/bash' inside 'crontab'. There is no sticky bit set and there is no alias on the rm command. Interestingly changing the 'rm' command to 'ls' gives the same negative result (unless you remove the trailing '*', and then that works). What am I missing here?

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  • Acer Aspire One (mini) mfgd 9/03 locks up also when plugged in

    - by LAURIE ANN
    My problem is almost the same as the Toshiba user (Toshiba A205-5804 freezes when plugged in): Well I have a Toshiba A205-5804 and the problem is that the screen freezes anytime I plug the pc into the external power supply, not as most of the computers having the same issue, my computer DOES freeze in safe mode, and I really can't bear this problem for much longer... It's not an overheat problem, the computer is not getting hot or anything related, I've tried already to change the AC adapter, to boot only with AC and no battery, and also all of these suggestions: The only difference in my case is: I can be using the battery and when it runs down, I can just close the lid and the system goes into hibernation mode. I then plug it in and let it charge. When I think it's finally charged, I can UNPLUG it, open the lid and all is running fine on the battery again. Note: the system was NOT shut down and it still runs as long as I remove the power plug before opening the lid. I have ALL the same issues as the other Toshiba user, also. I was a tech for 9 yrs in my own business and this one has not only stumped me, but anyone I have asked has never heard of this problem. Every repair center wants to charge me for diagnosis, even is they cannot fix it. I would really like to run this system along side of my new Acer Aspire 17" laptop as I need it to finish my grad school work. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanx, Laurie Ann

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  • USB wiped itself but still showing that its full?

    - by Brian Takan
    My Data saved from laptop to usb, and then I pulled it out, then something popped up on the screen saying that it was full and that I needed to delete stuff, so I put the USB back in and went to computer and all to go into it and when I did it isn't showing anything on the usb but when I go to computer it still shows that the usb is full. Does anybody know what is going on ? How can I get my data again?

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  • Recover an HP recovery partition

    - by eric.chartier
    I have a (semi)-dead hard drive with an HP recovery partition on it. My goal is to Buy a new hard drive Copy the recovery partition to a drive ( dd if=/dev/sdb1 of=~/recovery.bak ) Make a new partition of 12000 mb with Windows 7 Copy back recovery partition to the new drive ( dd if=~/recovery.bak of=/dev/sdb1 ) Then press F11 when the laptop boots. However, this doesn't work. Any idea why? Edit: I suspect the F11 doesn't work because the laptop tries to boot the laptop, because my partition is the primary partition of the drive. Does anyone have any experience dealing with stuff like this?

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  • No space left on device with encrypted disk that takes all space

    - by Yosef
    I use Ubuntu 11.04. There's no space left on device. I have encrypted the disk that takes up space (maybe it's good to disable it, but I don't know how). In shell, I get this message: No space left on device I run df -I: Filesystem Inodes IUsed IFree IUse% Mounted on /dev/sda1 3055616 602499 2453117 20% / none 210161 890 209271 1% /dev none 214789 8 214781 1% /dev/shm none 214789 53 214736 1% /var/run none 214789 3 214786 1% /var/lock /home/myuser/.Private 3055616 602499 2453117 20% /home/myuser df -I Edit: When I run only df: Filesystem 1K-blocks Used Available Use% Mounted on /dev/sda1 48060296 45618928 0 100% / none 1538340 684 1537656 1% /dev none 1547596 808 1546788 1% /dev/shm none 1547596 104 1547492 1% /var/run none 1547596 0 1547596 0% /var/lock /home/myuser/.Private 48060296 45618928 0 100% /home/myuser Edit: I thinking about few solution but I don't know which better and how exactly to do them: to enlarge partition size (I cant install gparted - no more disk space) remove encryption of partition - I really not need that

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  • Problem adding second domain controller to SBS 2008

    - by Quango
    Have an SBS 2008 server in one location, and want to add a backup domain controller at a different site. The two sites are linked by a VPN. New server is running Server 2008 R2, fully patched. At present it is a member server and the DNS is pointing at the SBS DNS. When I try running DCPROMO to connect the server, the wizard runs fine up to the point where the wizard is 'configuring Active Directory Domain Services' and 'examining forest': "The operation failed because: The wizard could not read operational attributes from the remote Active Directory Domain Controller SERVER.DOMAIN.LOCAL using LDAP. "The specified server cannot perform the requested operation." This error can occur if you have not been granted necessary permissions to read data in the directory. For more information, please see article 936241 in the Microsoft Knowledge Base (http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=88420)." I was logged on as domain administrator. Interestingly the link is invalid and the KB article does not exist..! Settings: Configure this server as an additional Active Directory domain controller for the domain "[domain]". Site: [site] Additional Options: Read-only domain controller: "No" Global catalog: Yes DNS Server: Yes Update DNS Delegation: No Source domain controller: any writable domain controller Database folder: C:\Windows\NTDS Log file folder: C:\Windows\NTDS SYSVOL folder: C:\Windows\SYSVOL The DNS Server service will be configured on this computer. This computer will be configured to use this DNS server as its preferred DNS server.

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  • "Reboot and select proper boot device"?

    - by overtherainbow
    Hello I didn't find the answer in Clonezilla's site/mailing list archives. Maybe someone has already seen this issue and knows how to recover from it: On a test host, using www.partedmagic.com, I created two partitions: One to hold an OS I wish to use for testing (/sda1), and a second partition to hold images (/sda2) After trying out Windows7, I used CloneZilla to restore an XPSP3 image, but I get the following error message when rebooting: "Reboot and select proper boot device" Could it be that Clonezilla didn't save/restore the MBR? Gparted didn't let me set a partition as "active", so it could also be this, but I have no idea. Thank you for any help.

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  • Mainboard shuts itself off after half a second or so

    - by heishe
    Here's the problem: When I start the PC, the mainboard powers up, then stays that way maybe 0.2-0.5 seconds, and then shuts off again. I say mainboard, and not PC, because I removed all the parts from the system and disconnected everything but the mainboard power supply (the broad 12 pin thingy). When I have the other parts (cpu, graphics card, ram, etc.) installed and connected, the basic behaviour stays the same, but now the mainboard runs for about 6 or 7 seconds (this is a guess) before shutting off. This all started when my monitor wouldn't receive a video signal today, without giving POSTs, so I took the graphics card and the RAM out to see if it changes anything. It didn't, except that from that point on the mainboard would start to have this behavior where it just stays on for a very short time and then shuts off again. I already tested it with a backup PSU - same behavior. What could this be? I'm thinking it can't be on a physical level (transistors burned through or something like that), since then the mainboard either shouldn't start at all or it should detect hardware failures in non-essential parts of the syste and start beeping. Sorry, I forgot to mention. It's an MSI P67A-C43. I already checked the capacitors if someone popped, but I can't find anything. I also tried resetting the cmos, but that didn't change anything.

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  • How to diagnose computer lockup/freezing problem

    - by Scott Mitchell
    I built a desktop computer a couple years back with the following specs: CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q9300 Yorkfield 2.5GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 95W Quad-Core Processor BX80580Q9300 Motherboard: EVGA 122-CK-NF68-T1 LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard Video Card: Two EVGA 256-P2-N758-TR GeForce 8600GT SCC 256MB 128-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 SLI Supported Video Card PSU: SeaSonic S12 Energy Plus SS-550HT 550W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply Memory: Two G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ Since its inception, the machine has periodically locked up, the regularlity having varied over the years from once a day to once a month. Typically, lockups happen once every few days. By "lockup" I mean my computer just freezes. The screen locks up, I can't move the mouse. Hitting keys on my keyboard that normally turn LEDs on or off on the keyboard (such as Caps Lock) no longer turn the LEDs on or off. If there was music playing at the time of the lockup, noise keeps coming out of the speakers, but it's just the current frequency/note that plays indefinitely. There is no BSOD. When such a lockup occurs I have to do a hard reboot by either turning off the computer or hitting the reset button. I have the most recent version of the NVIDIA hardware drivers, and update them semi-regularly, but that hasn't seemed to help. I am currently using Windows 7 x64, but was previously using Windows Server 2003 x64 and having the same lockup issues. My guess is that it's somehow video driver or motherboard related, but I don't know how to go about diagnosing this problem to narrow down which of the two is the culprit. Additional information re: cooling Regarding cooling... I've not installed any after-market cooling systems aside from two regular fans I scavenged from an older computer. The fan atop the CPU is the one that shipped with it. One of the two scavenged fans I added it located at the bottom tower of the corner, in an attempt to create some airflow from front to back. The second fan is pointed directly at the two video cards. SpeedFan installation and readings Per studiohack's suggestion, I installed SpeedFan, which provided the following temperature readings: GPU: 63C GPU: 65C System: 76C CPU: 64C AUX: 36C Core 0: 78C Core 1: 76C Core 2: 79C Core 3: 79C Update #3: Another Lockup :-( Well, I had another lockup last night. :-( SpeedFan reported the CPU temp at 38 C when it happened, and there was no spike in temperature leading up to the freeze. One thing I notice is that the freeze seems more likely to happen if I am watching a video. In fact, of the last 5 freezes over the past month, 4 of them have been while watching a video on Flickr. Not necessarily the same video, but a video nevertheless. I don't know if this is just coincidence or if it means anything. (As an aside, each night before bedtime my 2 year old daughter sits on my lap and watches some home videos on Flickr and, in the last month, has learned the phrase, "Uh oh, computer broke.") Update #4: MemTest86 and 3DMark06 Test Results: Per suggestions in the comments, I ran the MemTest86 overnight and it cycled through the 8 GB of memory 5 times without error. I also ran the 3DMark06 test without a problem (see my scores at http://3dmark.com/3dm06/15163549). So... what now? :-) Any further suggestions on what to check? Is there some way to get a stack trace or something when the computer locks like that? Thanks

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