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• Intel Ethernet Bottlenecking Internet?

  - by Donald Darma

  I'm having trouble with my internet speeds. So I just recent build a pc and everything is fine. I installed the Intel drivers and connected to the internet. It connects but I'm only half the speed I should be getting. My normal speed is 20mbps but speedtest.net is only showing 10. It can't be my ISP (which is TWC if anyone is asking) because my other devices like my laptop and my smartphone are showing 20 down. Heres my system: CPU: i5 4430 HSF: Stock cooler Mobo: Gigabyte Z87MX-D3H GPU: x2 MSI R7950-3GD5/OC BE RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB dual channel PSU: Silencer High Performance Power Supply 750 Watt 80+ (It's a subdivision of OCZ) HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3TB SSD: Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D Edit: I am using the stock adapter that is on the motherboard. I know for a fact that the cable is good because I used it on my laptop and it ran fine. Its a CAT5E cable. I also ran IPERF and its giving me the same results, 10 mbps.

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• Gigabit LAN not working on ASUS M2N-MX

  - by chmod

  Today I replace my FastEthernet switch with a newly bought gigabit switch (DGS-1008A). All computers in my house are displaying that the connection speed is 1 Gbps except for one. The computer that is not working is an ASUS M2N-MX which contain an onboard gigabit NIC. See ASUS link for confirmation http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2/M2NMX/ Here are some info of the machine OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64bit BIOS version: 1004 (latest) Driver: installed via Windows update (latest from Windows update) Windows Update: fully updated The machine is reformatted 3 days ago, so it's pretty clean, no junk, no virus, etc Cable: Amp CAT5E 5 meters In device manager, the name of the NIC is "NVIDIA nForce 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet" What I have try: I did try to install the driver provided in ASUS website, but there isn't any for Windows 7 64 or Vista 64. I did try to install the latest nForce340/6100, downloaded from Nvidia website. However, the LAN driver refuse to install, it complain that I already have the best driver installed. I looking in the property -- advance tab -- Speed/duplex settings, in an attempt to force it to run at 1000Mbps, but there is no 1000Mbps choice, only 10 and 100Mpbs. I change the CAT5E cable (use one from another computer that is running gigabit without problem) Anyone have this issue or know how to solve it? Thanks

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• RouterLess, house-wired network using multiple powerline adapters

  - by Cliff Arnell

  related to the 'old days' of one ethernet cable tapped with Ts for each monitor.... my question might be very simple... or not. I have an over-the-air internet provider with a wire dish with a powered transceiver and cat5 cable out of the providers supplied modem. I'm presently connecting the output of the modem into my wireless router which sends the internet signal all over the house. Standard stuff, I believe. My Question. Can I just connect the output of the modem into 1 powerline adapter and tie all my equipment such as computer, printer, laptop, Tivo recorder, etc. into 1-each local powerline adapters located near each devices resulting in a 'house-wired' network and no router? I'm bothered by the idea that my over-the-air provider might be using something in my router to establish and keep my IP connection alive. I did have to configure the router for my IP, a router which, in my proposed scenario, would no longer exist. Thank you for your help.

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• How to monitor bandwidth use of each device on wifi network

  - by GWLlosa

  I have in my home a standard Comcast cable internet connection. I have it going from the wall to a cable modem, and from the modem to a late-series Linksys router, which provides wired and wireless networking. The vast majority of the users are wireless connections. For day-to-day tasks, this connection is fully sufficient for all my needs. However, on regular occassions, we have social gatherings that involve many people bringing laptops and other PCs and using the network and internet simultaneously, frequently for gaming. I have no administrative oversight over these machines; they have been known to be riddled with spyware and/or bloatware or be running torrents, legal or otherwise. The only reason I care is that on a regular basis, one of the machines will flatline my internet bandwith, and consume it all in order to upload/download/spam people/whatever. When this happens, the latency of the connections for gaming and the like becomes unacceptable, and everyone suffers. My question is: Is there a system I can set up whereby I can easily monitor the various systems connected to my wireless connection, see how much bandwith each one is using, and for what ends? That way, at a glance, I can spot the offending machine and kick it from the connection, without having to go from machine to machine, checking each one's "bandwith used" properties manually, and dealing with the owner's indignant protests all the while. I understand this will likely involve 3rd-party software and/or hardware; my issue is I don't even know where to begin.

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• realtek lan driver problem - win 7

  - by tango _123

  Hi, my new notebook (ACER TM 8371) with Win 7(x32) professional as OS, has strage behaviour with respect to LAN. when I plug or unplug my charger cable, or my notebook goes in stad-by, or just a do nothing, the netwrok connection is lost. All the energy savings functionbality have been in-activated. if i check the network adapter information, it says "a network cabel is unplugged or corrupted", but it is not true.....the cable is in and it is not corrupted (i tried several which works on other machines). if a tried to di-habilitate and hence re-habilitate, it allows di-habilitation and not to further re-habilitate (it says "no driver for the network card" are available). in some cases, also, the driver disappears (i cannot see it anylonger). if i restart the notebook, everything comes back to normality, but.....today in 3 hours i had to restart 6 times!!! can anyone help me? win 7 says the driver is the last one, so no need to update it. here are some techinical information aboiut network card and driver: Name [00000015] Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Adapter type Ethernet 802.3 Product type Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller Installated YES ID device PNP PCI\VEN_10EC&DEV_8168&SUBSYS_02831025&REV_02\4&266E4C4F&0&00E2 last reset 20/11/2009 11:27 Index 15 Service name RTL8167 I/O Port 0x0000FF00-0x0000FFFF Memory address 0xE2500000-0xE2500FFF Memory address 0xE1400000-0xE140FFFF IRQ Channel IRQ 18 Driver c:\windows\system32\drivers\rt86win7.sys (7.3.522.2009, 164,00 KB (167.936 Byte), 28/08/2009 22:12)

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• How To Monitor Home Wireless Network Connected Devices Bandwith

  - by GWLlosa

  (Originally posted on SuperUser, not sure if it might be better suited here) I have in my home a standard Comcast cable internet connection. I have it going from the wall to a cable modem, and from the modem to a late-series Linksys router, which provides wired and wireless networking. The vast majority of the users are wireless connections. For day-to-day tasks, this connection is fully sufficient for all my needs. However, on regular occassions, we have social gatherings that involve many people bringing laptops and other PCs and using the network and internet simultaneously, frequently for gaming. I have no administrative oversight over these machines; they have been known to be riddled with spyware and/or bloatware or be running torrents, legal or otherwise. The only reason I care is that on a regular basis, one of the machines will flatline my internet bandwith, and consume it all in order to upload/download/spam people/whatever. When this happens, the latency of the connections for gaming and the like becomes unacceptable, and everyone suffers. My question is: Is there a system I can set up whereby I can easily monitor the various systems connected to my wireless connection, see how much bandwith each one is using, and for what ends? That way, at a glance, I can spot the offending machine and kick it from the connection, without having to go from machine to machine, checking each one's "bandwith used" properties manually, and dealing with the owner's indignant protests all the while. I understand this will likely involve 3rd-party software and/or hardware; my issue is I don't even know where to begin.

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• DSL Connection drops

  - by user60024

  Ok, I just moved so I had to switch from Cable to DSL. I know very little about computers or internet connections and such, so I had AT&T come out to the new house to set up their highest speed. When they got here, they told me that I needed to downgrade to 3.5mbps because I was too far away. Well we did and everything was going great for two days until I started experiencing random disconnects which have been happening now for about 2 to 3 weeks. I am using a N300 Wireless Dual Band ADSL2+ Modem Router and my ethernet cable is hooked directly into my computer from it. I recently started to notice that it disconnects around 5:30 and 8:30, which may be because a lot of people are on their computers(?) and that it works perfectly fine, almost, all the time if I'm not playing a game. During this time, when I try to load up World of Warcraft the Internet light disappears and the DSL light begins blinking. (So maybe it's too much for the modem and it resets?) Other than that it is amazing, but I'd like to try and fix some of these problems. If you need more information, let me know on how to get it for you and what to do. Thanks for the help!

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• How can I pair two bluetooth dongles together?

  - by techaddict

  I want to hack a device which connects via USB, and plug a bluetooth USB dongle to the end of the USB cable (using a female to female adapter), and then connect to that device from another USB bluetooth dongle connected to my computer. How can I do this? It is straightforward? I don't want to spend $30 before I know how to do this. Also I think another concern is that the USB cable is providing power to the device. So I think that means I would also have to hack it for power. I have created this diagram in Photoshop to illustrate my intent: (NOTE: it won't be a USB mouse, as that would be pointless because there are already wireless mice in existence. The mouse is displayed for illustrative purposes) Don't tell me "it won't work". Because I KNOW it WILL work. Think for example, PS3 controller. That works, and in fact I was able to get it working with my laptop, over bluetooth. I just want to know HOW to make it work.

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• "Ethernet" doesn't have a valid IP configuration

  - by Xuzuno

  I'm using an ethernet cord to connect to my internet and it has been working well until Thursday morning when I turned on my laptop (Windows 8) to see a yellow triangle sign in the bottom right hand corner, in front of the ethernet connected symbol. Since then I haven't been able been able to access the internet from my computer. When I hover over it, it says that it is an "Unidentified network" and there is "No internet access". I've run the Windows 8 troubleshooting and it says that the problem found was ""Ethernet" doesn't have a valid IP configuration", but I'm unsure how to fix it. I'm thinking that the problem is to do with my computer rather than my network, because I've tried another laptop (Windows 7) through the same ethernet cable and connection and the internet works fine on the other laptop. I've tried so many fixes that I've found online, with none of them actually working. Yesterday I even tried a full system reset, where I re-installed Windows 8, re-partitioned and wiped everything off the hard drive, but it still appears have the exact same problem. Today I also purchased and tried a new ethernet cable which didn't work, so I then purchased a USB to Ethernet adapter, to make sure that it wasn't my ethernet port on my laptop that was faulty. That didn't work either, and the same problem still remains. I feel like I've tried everything, so can someone please help me?

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• Disable internal display on Macbook Pro without closed lid mode?

  - by jslaker

  I have an early 2007 Macbook Pro running 10.5 that I've recently set up on a KVM with my primary desktop system. The problem I've run into is that I have a 20" 1680x1050 LCD, and OS X only provides options to mirror at the resolution of the built-in display or to span. Since the built-in display runs at 1440x900, this leads to running my LCD at non-native res and a fuzzy picture. There isn't any option that I can find to simply disable the built-in display entirely and run the external LCD at its native resolution. I am aware of closed lid mode, but the MBP was disassembled while in storage for about 6 months (took it apart to pull the HDD) and the cable to the touchpad, which controls the sleep sensor was damaged, meaning closed lid mode won't work. I've looked into replacing the cable, but the cheapest I've been able to find it is $75-100, and I'm trying not to invest any more money into this computer as it also has a completely dead battery and a few other minor problems. I've found the app SwitchResX which appears to allow you to do what I need, but it has a lot of functionality I don't need and a ~$20 registration charge attached to it. An odd set of circumstances, I'm aware, but I was hoping somebody might know of an OS hack that would let me just disable the internal display and be done with it. :)

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• Internet setup for my office

  - by prakash

  We have two internet connections to our office and our current setup is like this.. The internet connections require pppoe log in so i take each cable and plug it into a wifi router and configure the router to log in to the pppoe and then plug in a cable from the router to a switch and distribute the internet throughout my office. The problem with this setup is it is really hard to monitor and im not able to monitor who is hogging internet usage and what he or she is actually using it for. apart from this we also have a nas setup which is routed through another switch . Could someone please throw a little light on how i can restructure this setup for easy monitoring and better transparency... ? each wan router is connected to a different switch and is distributed to users accordingly.. we have around 40 users in the office.. we want to setup a single linux box to which i want to connect the two wan connections and from there distribute it to all our users.... im looking for a solution where we do not have to invest more that buying a single pc and a couple of nics

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• CD Drive not discovered

  - by user1009073

  I have a self built computer. it uses a P6T Deluxe motherboard, which has both SATA and IDE ports. This was built several years ago, and had an IDE CD/DVD drive. This drive started going bad (would not burn CDs correctly), so I decided to replace it. I had difficultly finding an IDE DVD drive, so I bought a SATA DVD drive. I opened the comnputer, took out the old DVD drive. I left the IDE cable in place, connected to the motherboard, but it is not connected to any drives. I hooked up the new DVD drive, both power and with a SATA data cable (SATA port 3 if I recall). (Sony Optiarc 24x , Newegg URL: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118067 ) When I power on my computer, the drive does NOT show up in Explorer. I can hit the DVD eject button, and the drive will open up, so I know it at least is getting power. I thought, maybe something in the BIOS. When I go to BIOS, boot devices, it shows (1) floppy, (2) my hard drive (3) ATAPI CD Drive. The only other possible BIOS option I could find was uder 'Storage Configuration'. Configure Storage as: My setting is RAID, since I am using two drives in a RAID configuration. Other options were IDE and ACHI. Other than trying to find an IDE DVD drive, is there anything else I can try? The drive does not show up at all in Windows Explorer. I did put in a CD thinking that might help, but nothing happened. Thanks, GS

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• Port(s) not forwarding?

  - by user11189

  I have cable internet service through Charter Communications and feed two desktop computers through a Linksys RP614v3 router. One system is my wife's running WinXP Home Edition and the other is mine, running Vista Home Premium (sp1). I have port forwarding configured in the Linksys so I can access the Vista system remotely using TightVNC. Initially, it worked great and I was able to remotely tend email and access local files while out of town for work. Lately, the cable internet service appears to flicker intermittently and upon return, my Mailwasher program loses ability to access the net and I've been unable to make the remote connection. When I reset the port forwarded for email in the router control panel, Mailwasher functionality returns but as I'm home when that happens, I have no easy way to check remote access until the next time I'm on the road or at work. I'm at my wit's end -- the TightVNC client accesses fine from my wife's system from behind the modem/router setup but I don't know how to maintain whatever gets reset when I fiddle with the control panel and the need to do so at all is new. I accessed it fine for a week off and on while out of town a month ago and now I can't leave home and access it from work an hour later.

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• Can you help me understand my SATA/RAID options?

  - by andrz_001

  I've a gigabyte GA-M720-US3 motherboard. Recently, I noticed the following during boot: IDE channel 0 Master (none) IDE channel 0 Slave (none) IDE channel 2 Master (my hdd) IDE channel 2 Slave (my dvd drive) IDE channel 3 Master (none) IDE channel 3 Slave (none) Of course, the same information is contained in the BIOS/CMOS. The HDD is connected to the mobo via a SATA(2?) cable at the port(?) labeled SATA2_0. The DVD drive is connected by a similar cable at SATA2_1. Why doesn't the information displayed during the boot and in BIOS reflect how I plugged the cables in? I mean, why "none" for channel 0 when there is something in SATA2_0. (or is that serious naivete on my part!?) Where's Channel 1 master and slave? Since these are SATA cables and not the IDE ribbons from a time ago, why the whole master/slave declaration during boot and in BIOS? Should my BIOS reflect the fact that these are SATA cables? I mean, in BIOS, should the "Onchip SATA mode IDE" be set to RAID or AHCI instead of IDE? Any replies, answers, suggestions, links, tips will be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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• ATI Radeon 5670 Won't Show Resolutions over 1400x900

  - by Phil Sandler

  Just got my new Dell computer with Windows 7 and an ATI Radeon 5670. I attached it to my current monitor, which is a Samsung 24" (2443bwt). Windows 7 does not allow me to display in resolutions greater than 1400 x 900. The setup through a VGA cable into the VGA port of the card. The card also has a DVI port, but I need to use the VGA port because a KVM that supports VGA only. My old PC (which is Windows XP, GeForce 8600 video) can display in 1900 x 1200 on the same monitor (which is what I want) and even higher. It does this through a vga cable also connected to the KVM (through the DVI port but using an adapter). I have tried the same setup (DVI = VGA adapter) on the new PC and nothing changed. I have tried: Updating the drivers via Windows "Update Driver" (says they are current) Installing the updated version of the drivers from ATI (made no difference) Installing Powerstrip (all the options I would need for a custom resolution are greyed out) Installing the drivers/software from ATI caused the ATI Catalyst Control Center software to stop functioning, so I can no longer even start it. I have found some references to other people having this problem and instructions on cleaning the software off and reinstalling it (as uninstalling normally doesn't solve it). I will try this tonight. In any case, I didn't see any options in CCC that would allow me to override the settings for max resolution. However I didn't tinker with it too much before I tried updating the drivers, so I may have missed a setting. I contacted Samsung via online chat and they say it's a problem with the video card/driver (of course--what else would they say?). Any thoughts on what else I could try?

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• Pull network or power? (for contianing a rooted server)

  - by Aleksandr Levchuk

  When a server gets rooted (e.g. a situation like this), one of the first things that you may decide to do is containment. Some security specialists advise not to enter remediation immediately and to keep the server online until forensics are completed. Those advises are usually for APT. It's different if you have occasional Script kiddie breaches. However, you may decide to remediate (fix things) early and one of the steps in remediation is containment of the server. Quoting from Robert Moir's Answer - "disconnect the victim from its muggers". A server can be contained by pulling the network cable or the power cable. Which method is better? Taking into consideration the need for: Protecting victims from further damage Executing successful forensics (Possibly) Protecting valuable data on the server Edit: 5 assumptions Assuming: You detected early: 24 hours. You want to recover early: 3 days of 1 systems admin on the job (forensics and recovery). The server is not a Virtual Machine or a Container able to take a snapshot capturing the contents of the servers memory. You decide not to attempt prosecuting. You suspect that the attacker may be using some form of software (possibly sophisticated) and this software is still running on the server.

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• Recovering data from an external hard drive

  - by CCallaghan

  I have a WD Elements 2GB hard drive (formatted NTFS). I accidentally kicked out the USB cable while writing data to the disk, and now I can't access most of the data. Although this was ostensibly my backup drive, there is a great deal of important material on there which was only on there. I realise how idiotic this makes me. (So, formatting is not an option.) Things I've tried/information I've gathered: Windows Explorer will recognise the drive itself. However, it will not access most directories therein (and will sometimes crash when exploring). I can access all of the directories through the command line, but the dir command will often report that it can't read any files in most of the directories. The situation was similar when I hooked it up to an Ubuntu machine: the file explorer crashed, but I could access directories - but not files in those directories - via terminal commands. Several files I tried to copy out either resulted in an I/O error being reported or resulted in the command line crashing. The Disk Management utility on Windows reports a healthy disk formatted as NTFS and not RAW. It also indicates the correct amount of space used up and its capacity (so it seems that the files are not deleted). I've tried to run chkdsk, but that hangs on Step 2 (checking indexes) at 74%. Step 1 reported no bad sectors. I tried Recuva, but that didn't seem to work (stalled at 0% for half an hour). I should also note that the disk doesn't seem to be spinning smoothly; it seems to be chopping back, like it's reading the same sector over and over again. I noticed this after I kicked out the cable. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Update: It would seem the problem has taken a turn for the worse. The external hard drive now shows up on my computer as a local disk and is not mountable by Linux.

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• Workaround for Dell "Power Supply Not Recognised" issue

  - by Haedrian

  So, I have a Dell Inspirion and the power supply port appears to be damaged. Basically when I plug it in I get a nice popup telling me that it couldn't detect that its a Dell power supply so it won't charge the battery and underclocks the system. It still works for other purposes (that is, giving power) I thought it was the actual power supply cable so I bought a new one, that worked for a while, provided I inserted it at JUST THE RIGHT angle. But now that's not working anymore, so I assume its the part which connects to the computer. The battery charging I can live without, the underclocking I can't. I'd like a way around this issue. Things I've tried: Updating the BIOS Replacing the power supply cable Inserting it at different angles Turning it off and on again Swearing at it Twisting it while inserting it So, is there a workaround somehow? I'd like to avoid taking out my soldering kit and risking permanently damaging expensive equipment if that's allright. I'm hoping for a software solution. Added: The exact model is a Del Inspirion N5010

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• Static IP addressing issue in Ubuntu on BeagleBoneBlack Rev C

  - by Stringfellow

  I have my BBB configured to use a static IP address using the following in the file /etc/network/interfaces: allow-hotplug eth0 iface eth0 inet static address 192.168.0.1 netmask 255.255.255.0 network 192.168.0.0 This seems to work ok on boot, but when the ethernet cable is unplugged and then plugged back in, I lose the IP address. Any ideas what's going on here? Another weird symptom: If I boot the BBB with the network cable unplugged, but the switch it's plugged into off, I'll get my static IP. But, when I turn the switch on, I'll get a DHCP-assigned address. This is even though I have it configured with a static IP address. One last thing. If I ifdown etho, the interface will be gone when I do an ifconfig. If I wait a few seconds, though, and then re-run ifconfig, it will reappear, without an IP address. (Before I disabled IPv6, I used to get a IPv4 DHCP address in this case... weird). When that happens, I get a message like this in /var/log/messages: Apr 23 20:32:06 beaglebone kernel: [ 737.170172] libphy: 4a101000.mdio:00 - Link is Up - 100/Full Apr 23 20:32:06 beaglebone kernel: [ 737.170304] IPv6: ADDRCONF(NETDEV_CHANGE): eth0: link becomes ready Here's my uname -a: root@beaglebone:/etc# uname -a Linux beaglebone 3.8.13-bone47 #1 SMP Fri Apr 11 01:36:09 UTC 2014 armv7l GNU/Linux Any ideas what's going on here?

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• Bootable ISO to USB stick xp quickest method

  - by brux

  My dog took a leak on my PC when I went out (ye funny), now it reandomly restarts - I'm convinced the HDD is failing because the Windows seagate diagnostic program fails on a few tests. I want to run this prior to windows in an attempt to try and recover sectors, the program includes an iso which can be written to cd and booted, but i dont have any cd's. I tried using unetbootin to create the bootable usb from the iso file (SeaToolsDOS222ALL.576.ISO) but it doesnt work. When i boot from the usb hdd unetbootin loads with "default" in the menu. No joy booting though. I checked the usb hdd in windows and all the files are there, extracted from the iso file, wont boot though. Any ideas? Im using windows xp. More info - when the computer restarts (like i just did now) it constantly reaches the end of POST and then restarts in infinite loop. If I pull the power cable out it will get back into windows, the longer i leave it between attempts, the longer I am able to stay in windows until it restarts. i.e if i leave the power cable out 5 minutes it will stay operable for longer than if i had left it out for only a few seconds.

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• How to stop Vista from auto changing video resolution?

  - by bialix

  I have new Acer Aspire Revo R3600 computer with Vista pre-installed. The computer has NVidia video adapter. While connecting 17" LCD monitor (LG L1742S) via VGA cable it works fine, and I can change the resolution of the display from max 1920*1024 down to some other value, and after reboot the settings are restored correctly. But when I'm connecting bigger full HD 1920*1080 display (LG E2250) via VGA cable then every boot I have the same problem: I see boot progress window, then I see MS logo, then I see welcome screen then I start to see desktop and suddenly monitor switch off and show me the message about unsupported frequency of input signal As I understand Vista tries to auto-change resolution and sets wrong parameters. I've tried to boot into safe mode and into low-resolution mode, every time I have the same problem: Vista boot-up and suddenly monitor stops working. I've tried to connect this monitor to notebook with Windows XP and has no problem to work with this display on its native resolution. How can I disable this display resolution auto-changer in Vista? Or maybe there is another workaround?

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• Wires from fan on side panel - where do they connect?

  - by Mick

  The side panel of my desktop PC has a small fan built in. There were two wires, one red one black that connected inside the PC. Unfortunately I had the bolts removed and the side door fell off ripping the cables such that the main length of cable remains attached to the fan. So there must be two short stubs of broken cable somewhere - but I can't find them! Any ideas where I should look? I can't see anything on the motherboard. the PC is running perfectly well - but I now have the side open to make sure the air can circulate. EDIT: The motherboard appears to be an "Asus P6T SE" EDIT: The manual shows the location of two "chassis fan" connectors. One is being used by a big chassis fan on the back face of the PC (underneath the pwer supply). The other appears to be unused - there is no stub of a connector with wires - its just the bare pins sticking directly out of the motherboard. There is also an unused "pwr_fan" connector. Would it be ok to simply connect the black and red wires from the fan to the black and red parts of a molex adapter?

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• Printer spools but doesn't print

  - by DKNUCKLES

  I am having a bizarre issue with an end user who is unable to print to a USB attached printer. The environment is as Windows 7 machine with a Canon Pixma iP90 printer. The driver is installed (and has been re-installed several times), but whenever a print job is sent the printer spools but no printing ever occurs. The following is some relevant information I can confirm that the printer is spooling as the spool folder fills up, and the job "releases" and the spool folder empties I have turned off print spooling with no luck None of the features from the Canon utilities (ie Turn Printer Off) features work Computer recognizes the printer as being installed. When the cable is unplugged the printer icon grey's out in Devices and Printers Printer and cable are confirmed working as they work with other PC's in the office I have deleted the USB Root Hub devices and rebooted the machine with no luck No error messages are displayed or logged in the event viewer. The Canon diagnostics utility doesn't detect any problem and states the printer is functioning properly Printer is not shared User is able to print to other shared printers in the office Any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

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• All USB ports on my laptop are dead, any options via Ethernet, SD/MMC or HDMI?

  - by carbontracking

  My son's laptop has taken alot of pain in his school over the last few months and he and his buddies have succeeded in breaking both USB ports. I've opened the box, unsoldered the USB ports, replaced them by new components but no joy - the ports seem dead. If I assume that the insertion of LEGO pieces, etc. in USB ports has rendered them unsalvageable, do I have any other options for restoring USB access to the laptop? The laptop has an ethernet port, a HDMI port and an SD/MMC port. I've trawled the web for a magic adadpter, i.e; ethernet=USB, HDMI=USB or SD/MMC=USB but to no avail. Lots of options for going the other way though. Does anyone have any ideas on the feasibility of an ethernet=USB cable? Ethernet doesn't seem to have +5V or GND so I can run a cable from the motherboard that could provide those. Amazing how many functions of a laptop just disappear when you have no USB ports.

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• very slow connection to ssh server from client (but not other servers)

  - by AntonOfTheWoods

  I have an Ubuntu 12.04 laptop that is taking so long to connect to various servers (in different data centres) that it seems like a bit of a lottery whether I'll actually get a connection. If I connect to the servers between themselves it's instantaneous, and I've set UseDNS no AddressFamily inet On the servers I'm connecting to (and rebooted for good measure). I also put in the reverse DNS+IP of the cable connection I'm connecting from. If I connect from the laptop via telnet: telnet my.server 22 Then the connection is also instantaneous, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with an intervening firewall. I have the same behaviour whether I connect with the IP, a short name in my hosts or the FQDN. I'm connecting with a 50mbps (cable, sync) connection so that doesn't appear to be the problem, and when I do finally get a connection then it's a good, quick, stable one. I have tried listening on another port (8000) and that makes no difference. Web and other connections from the laptop to the machine are also very good. Does anyone have any ideas here?

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