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  • Motherboard HDDPWR1 connector

    - by Eric Leschinski
    I need help identifying the name of a connector. I have a Gateway DX4870-UB318 computer, I opened the case and wanted to attach another hard drive, but to my surprise one existing SATA hard drive was connected to the motherboard with this connector: And here is the spot on the Motherboard where the power was supplied. What is the name of this adapter and where can I get another one? Clues: This computer was bought new October 2013 from best buy, box number: DX4870-UB318. The gateway folks won't divulge the type of motherboard it has nor give specs on it. On the wire itself is an identification code: H.35090NJ01-000 Next to the connector on the motherboard it says: HDDPWR1 and the second one says HDDPWR2. This cable has two SATA power connectors and one mystery connector. The power supply has no molex power cables and no SATA power connectors! This is the most bizarre hard drive power system I've seen. I guess the motherboard folks are trying to remove the burden for desktop power supplies to provide adapters (molex, SATA, other) to CD's and hard drives. Can someone put a name on that white flat 6 pin HDD Power Connector? My Solution I can buy a "SATA Power Y Splitter Cable" to provide more spaces to power sata devices.

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  • What is there in Win 7 Pro (or Ultimate) that is not there in Home Premium? - Especially considering this situation..

    - by Senthil
    I want to know the REAL difference between Windows 7 Home Premium and Professional/Utimate. In India, the cost of different versions: Ultimate - 11,200 INR Professional - 10,700 INR Home Premium - 6,600 INR The absolute cost of the first two is so high to me that the difference (500 INR) doesn't matter. So to me there is really no choice between the first two - If I decide to buy the Professional version, I'd rather go for Ultimate itself. What I want to know is, whether Home Premium is enough for my needs. I tried searching for comparison but many look like just marketing junk from MS. They are short and vague. According to this page, the major differences between Pro and HomePremium are Run many Windows XP productivity programs in Windows XP Mode. Connect to company networks easily and more securely with Domain Join. You can do both in Pro but not in Home Premium. I intend to use my Windows 7 for a small business - just starting up. So I'll be dealing with the following: All kinds of development tools, servers Very important - I will run Virtual Machine Software (MS VPC or VMWare or Sun VirtualBox etc..) My system will be acting as the server for most purposes till I can afford dedicated servers. Connect the system to a variety of network devices (PCs, Printers, etc..) Run productivity, business and financial apps Any other small software startup business requirement that I haven't thought of yet. Professional (and Ultimate) is twice as expensive as Home Premium. So it'd be great if someone can point out the things you cannot do with Home Premium, when you use it like I explained above, so that I can make a decision about which one to buy. I need some real-life experiences so that I can make an informed decision - not a decision based on marketing junk.

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  • Home Networking Questions

    - by Eddie Parker
    Hello: I'm looking to wire my home with CAT-X (where X is probably going to be CAT-6, unless someone can convince me differently. ;) ). I'm seeking advice on what equipment I'll need for the job, and any things I should watch out for. It's a two story half-duplex I'll be wiring, roughly about 1800 sq ft. Here's what I believe I need so far: Bulk CAT-6 Ethernet cabling CM Rated Gigabit switch(es?) Patch panel Equipment for cutting, terminating wire, fishing through walls, etc Wall outlet covers, etc. Questions I have: Does it matter the MHz rating on the Ethernet cable? If so, why? I have two gigabit switches currently, an 8-port and a 5-port. Should I buy one massive switch to cover all the connections I need, or should I just chain the two together and buy a switch for however many other connections I need? Do I really need a patch panel? I understand it keeps the cables looking cleaner than coming out of a hole in the wall, but is there some other product I can use, perhaps combining a switch with a patch panel or some such? Ideally I'll have all this running out of a relatively small closet, so the less components (or smaller) the better. Any advice, links, or suggested product to use/avoid would be appreciated!

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  • Outgrew MongoDB … now what?

    - by samsmith
    We dump debug and transaction logs into mongodb. We really like mongodb because: Blazing insert perf document oriented Ability to let the engine drop inserts when needed for performance But there is this big problem with mongodb: The index must fit in physical RAM. In practice, this limits us to 80-150gb of raw data (we currently run on a system with 16gb RAM). Sooooo, for us to have 500gb or a tb of data, we would need 50gb or 80gb of RAM. Yes, I know this is possible. We can add servers and use mongo sharding. We can buy a special server box that can take 100 or 200 gb of RAM, but this is the tail wagging the dog! We could spend boucoup $$$ on hardware to run FOSS, when SQL Server Express can handle WAY more data on WAY less hardware than Mongo (SQL Server does not meet our architectural desires, or we would use it!) We are not going to spend huge $ on hardware here, because it is necessary only because of the Mongo architecture, not because of the inherent processing/storage needs. (And sharding? Please! Cost aside, who needs the ongoing complexity of three, five, or more servers to manage a relatively small load?) Bottom line: MongoDB is FOSS, but we gotta spend $$$$$$$ on hardware to run it? We sould rather buy commercial SW! I am sure we are not the first to hit this issue, so we ask the community: Where do we go next? (We already run Mongo v2) Thanks!!

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  • Flash alternative for iBook Mac?

    - by Hunter Dolan
    I have a old Apple iBook G4 that I decided to hook up to my main TV. I like the setup because I can surf the internet on my TV now. The only thing that I can't seem to do is watch Flash videos. Apparently Flash Player 10 doesn't play nice with the iBook's graphics card's GPU, leaving all the graphics processing to the CPU which is a disaster. Others suggested downgrading to Flash Player 9, I did that, and youtube worked fine, but Hulu (The main reason I wanted to hook it up to the TV in the first place) did not. Anyone know of a Flash alternative or a Flash 10 fix for the iBook? Or even a Hulu client that doesn't require Flash. Here are my iBook's Specs Model Name: iBook G4 <br> Model Identifier: PowerBook6,5 <br> Processor Name: PowerPC G4 (1.2) <br> Processor Speed: 1.2 GHz <br> Number Of CPUs: 1 <br> L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB <br> Memory: 512 MB <br> Bus Speed: 133 MHz <br> Boot ROM Version: 4.8.7f1 <br> Mac OS X Version: 10.5.8 <br> PS: Don't tell me that I need to buy a new computer. I know that I would have better results with a new computer but I don't want to buy a new computer just for Hulu.

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  • Creating basic, redundant gigE or IB storage network for Xen?

    - by StaringSkyward
    With only a modest budget, I want to move my 4 xen servers over to network storage -either NFS or iSCSI which will be determined based on how well it performs when we test it (we need good throughput and it must continue to work through link and switch failure tests). We may add another couple of xen servers at some point when this is done. I don't know much about the design and operation of storage networks, so would really appreciate some hints from those with experience. The budget is around $3,800 excluding the storage appliance. I am currently thinking these are my options to remain on budget: 1) Go for used infiniband hardware and aim for 10gb performance. 2) Stick with gig ethernet and buy some new switches (cisco or procurve) to create a storage-only ethernet LAN. Upgrade to 10gigE later but try to use hardware capable of it where possible to reduce upgrade costs. I have seen used, warrantied infiniband switches at reasonable prices (presumably because big companies are converging on 10gbit ethernet?) and the promise of cheap 10gb is attractive. I know nothing about IB, so here come the questions: Can I buy 2 x switches and have multiple HBAs in my xen and storage nodes to get redundancy and increased performance without complexity or expensive management software costs? If so, can you point me to some examples? Do NFS and iSCSI work just the same regardless? Is IB a sensible choice or could/should I use ethernet or FC on the same budget - I'm keen not to get boxed into a corner for future upgrades, however. For the storage I am likely to build a storage server using nexentastor with the intention that I can later add more disks, SSDs and add another server to provide a failover option at the storage level. An HP LeftHand starter SAN is also under consideration, too. Thanks in advance.

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  • is it good to have or difference between ADSL Modem+WiFi Router and Separate ADSL Modem & Wi-Fi Router?

    - by vikas devde
    I have ADSL2 Modem which I got from my service provider, now I want to setup wireless(Wi-Fi) in my home. I went to shop, where I came to know that there are routers which come up with modem also but they are priced lil higher than the only wi-fi routers. Now it is obvious that I should go for only wi-fi one, as I already have modem. My question is, is there any difference between ADSL+router and only router? I think if I use ADSL+router, the speed will increase lilbit, as modem does modulate and demodulate signals, and router also generates wireless signal, that is time to take conversions is doubled, and if I use ADSL+modem, it will directly convert the signals to wireless, and time will be saved, so the overall speed will increase lilbit. This is what my concept is(Which might be wrong). What do you guys would suggest me? should I take my current modem away and buy an ADSL+router or I should keep my modem and buy only wi-fi one. Please tell me the difference and suggest me which one I should go with, and also suggest me which company router I should go for.

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  • What do I need to consider when buying hardware to meet my needs?

    - by Darth Android
    I'm looking to build a new computer from the ground up. I'm not sure what to look out for and need guidance and help on how to pick the hardware needed to construct my new rig. How do I know what to buy? How do I find out if a given CPU will be enough for a certain game or application that I want to run? How do I find out if a given graphics card will be enough for a certain game or application? What is important when looking at motherboards? How much memory do I need? How do I know how much wattage I need for a power supply? What size case do I need? What relevant standards do I need to read up on and be aware of? PCI, PCIe, SATA, USB 2.0, USB 3.0, etc... What "gotchas" do I need to be on the lookout for? Please keep responses generation-agnostic to ensure they will be helpful to our future users. While Stack Exchange does not permit shopping recommendations, it doesn't provide any general advice to consider when buying hardware. So, instead of just telling those that ask what to buy that it's not allowed, let's tell them how to figure out what they need. This question was Super User Question of the Week #20 Read the June 20, 2011 blog entry for more details or submit your own Question of the Week.

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  • Corliss Expert Group Home Security: How to Secure Your Home without Spending Too Much?

    - by Mika Esmond
    HOME SECURITY: HOW TO SECURE YOUR HOME WITHOUT SPENDING TOO MUCH Imagine if there were no burglar or criminals who threaten the safety of our homes; we will be surprised how much savings we would have on several things we do to secure ourselves and our loved ones. We would not need fences, gates with locks, doors locks, window grills, CCTV cams, perimeter lighting, shotguns and baseball bats. The cost of maintaining these things can run up to the entire cost of building another room or, in some cases, a whole new house. The rationale for home security is the same for national security. A nation maintains an army whether it has enemies or not; so, whether burglars will come or not, we have to prepare for the eventuality. Hence, we end up spending for something we might never put into the actual use it was intended for. You buy a pistol and when a burglar breaks in you fire the gun either to scare or disable the intruder. We hope we will never have to use these things; but we still buy them for the peace of mind that comes from knowing we can secure or protect our family and home.

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  • Hosting a server for websites, ftp and random use at home?

    - by Zolomon
    I'm wondering what's the best option for me if I want to move all my hosted websites (from a hosting company) to a server at my own home? Basically, the needs I have are: be able to host websites using PHP/ASP.NET (haven't really decided yet - both would be preferred!) enable FTP so I can create accounts for my family members to access the server for file handling SSH SSL - for secure connections (this is something you have to buy/apply for per domain, not sure if there are any server side settings that have to be made) be able to stream video remote desktop host home-brew applications that can run as services use either MySQl/SQLite/SQL for relational database storage What should I think of before I buy a server? What hardware will I need, what will limit my server? I basically want to learn networking better as I'm a software and web developer but haven't had the resources to acquire any serious toys until now. At the time of writing, most of my websites have 60 visits/day so I don't suspect them to be very demanding. Is there something I haven't thought of that I should have? What OS would you suggest I run? FreeBSD vs Windows Server vs ?

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  • HP Proliant DL380 G4 - Can this server still perform in 2011?

    - by BSchriver
    Can the HP Proliant DL380 G4 series server still perform at high a quality in the 2011 IT world? This may sound like a weird question but we are a very small company whose primary business is NOT IT related. So my IT dollars have to stretch a long way. I am in need of a good web and database server. The load and demand for a while will be fairly low so I am not looking nor do I have the money to buy a brand new HP Dl380 G7 series box for $6K. While searching around today I found a company in ATL that buys servers off business leases and then stripes them down to parts. They clean, check and test each part and then custom "rebuild" the server based on whatever specs you request. The interesting thing is they also provide a 3-year warranty on all their servers they sell. I am contemplating buying two of the following: HP Proliant DL380 G4 Dual (2) Intel Xeon 3.6 GHz 800Mhz 1MB Cache processors 8GB PC3200R ECC Memory 6 x 73GB U320 15K rpm SCSI drives Smart Array 6i Card Dual Power Supplies Plus the usual cdrom, dual nic, etc... All this for $750 each or $1500 for two pretty nicely equipped servers. The price then jumps up on the next model up which is the G5 series. It goes from $750 to like $2000 for a comparable server. I just do not have $4000 to buy two servers right now. So back to my original question, if I load Windows 2008 R2 Server and IIS 7 on one of the machines and Windows 2008 R2 server and MS SQL 2008 R2 Server on another machine, what kind of performance might I expect to see from these machines? The facts is this series is now 3 versions behind the G7's and this series of server was built when Windows 200 Server was the dominant OS and Windows 2003 Server was just coming out. If you are running Windows 2008 R2 Server on a G4 with similar or less specs I would love to hear what your performance is like.

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  • Relaying to tech "support" that computer is actually broken.

    - by Sion
    First some background: I have a Dell Inspiron 15R M050, it is still under the Dell limited warranty and the Best Buy Extended warranty. I am currently dual booting Debian Squeeze and Windows 7, the only reason I go into Windows is to play video games specifically steam games. Issue: When I play my games in Windows I am capable of playing for anywhere from 5 minutes to 2 hours before I suffer a hard-lock. I cannot alt-tab, ctrl-alt-delete, ctrl-shift-escape do anything for 2-3 minutes. After this hard-lock period everything runs fine, I can continue the game for probably another hour at least before I suffer another lock. Games: Borderlands, Splinter Cell: Chaos Theory, Starcraft 2, Garrys Mod What I have tried: Running the diagnostic suite in the dell bios, restoring the OEM Windows recovery partition on the HD, fresh installing Windows 7 Professional, updating BIOS, Calling tech support and having them run a software Hardware Diagnostics suite. The question: I think from the research that I have performed that it might be a lack of thermal paste on the CPU, would I be able to go to Best Buy and have them do a hardware diagnostic from the hardware level then have them be able to tell Dell that there is a hardware issue? Or would there be a different problem?

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  • Move OS from RAID5 array to RAID 1 arrays

    - by Antoine
    I want to give a last boost to my old ProLiant ML350 G5 server which just needs to be reliable for a few more year only ! With a defined budget of about 1500$ (I do not have more), i plan to replace the CPU (+ adding a second one), the battery cache of my raid controller (E200i), double the RAM, and change all hard drives. I have 7 HDD (SAS 10krpm, 72Gb) + 1 spare in RAID5, and my system is all FULL (no empty tray, full disks). in my current RAID5 array, I have 2 partitions: - 1 OS partition, 20Gb - 1 data partition, 350 Gb I plan to replace these 8 disks with : - 2 x 300Gb SAS 15krpm in RAID 1 (= 1 partition for OS) - 2 x 2Tb SATA 7.2krpm in RAID 1 (= 1 partition for DATA) My biggest constraint is that I have only 01 day to upgrade my server. Therefore, I'm looking for cloning all my files (OS + data partition) to my new arrays, i.e : - the OS partition shall be cloned to the RAID1 "2x300Gb array" - the data partition shall be cloned to the RAID1 "2x2Tb array" My second problem is that I need to physically remove all the old hard drives before inserting the new ones. I'm running Windows Server 2003 R2, and even if MS support will expire soon, I cannot buy a new licence and spent time in configuration. Obviously, with 1500$, I cannot also buy a new server that I could start configuring from now ! Thought about ASR (NTBackup), but I have no floppy drive (and do not really want to invest in one !) Thought about a clonezilla clone, and read this interesting link : Windows Server 2003 - move C: partition to a new SAS disk , but i'm not so confident in using Clonezilla with RAID5. What should be the best option to quickly and easily (if possible!) "copy/paste" my OS (so no need to reinstall and reconfigure all) and DATA / programs / services, etc... ? Thanks for your comments

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  • Is 2 GB of RAM better than 2.5 GB?

    - by pibboater
    My laptop has two slots for RAM, and currently has two 512 MB chips, for 1 GB. Windows XP is running terribly slow on it, so I want to upgrade the RAM. I could buy two 1 GB chips to replace both of the current 512 MB chips, to give me 2 GB of RAM. Or, the price is the same to buy one 2 GB chip, to replace just one of the 512 MB chips, and give me 2.5 GB total. The RAM it takes is PC2-4200 533MHz DDR2. What do you think would be better: buying two 1 GB chips so it can take advantage of dual-channel operation, or buying one 2 GB chip to end up with more total RAM but not dual-channel operation? Like I said, price is the same, so performance is the only consideration. I'm not doing anything especially intensive like video or photo editing -- just having multiple Office programs open, playing music, browsers, etc., but currently even opening the first application takes forever. If it matters, the laptop is a Toshiba Qosmio G25-AV513 running Windows XP Media Center SP3. Thanks! Kevin

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  • What is the max supported number of SATA devices (using cable adapters) on a Dell SAS 6/iR adapter?

    - by Zac B
    I've got a Dell SAS 6/iR PCI-E adapter. I don't have a multiplier backplane. I'm planning on connecting SATA (non SAS) drives. If I buy cable adapters only (ones that split a SAS connector on the card to a certain number of SATA cables), how many drives can I connect to this card? The way I see it, there are two limitations: a limitation imposed by the theoretical max number of devices supported on the card (which I've dug through the specs to find, but haven't seen yet), and a limitation imposed by the number of SAS plugs on the card multiplied by the number of SATA cables that come out of the highest-multiplying splitter I can buy. The answer to my question would be the minimum of those two limitations. I've seen 4x SATA coming out of some splitters; are there any that have more? Alternatively, if this is an RTFM question, does anyone have a good link to a "this is how SAS works, this is how you figure out the max number of devices, and this is how the concepts of 'ports', 'lanes', 'endpoint devices', and 'connectors' all relate in SAS-land" document? I've looked around on the Dell docs, but haven't found anything that explains this to someone at my level of understanding of SAN/enterprise storage technologies. Cheers!

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  • Replacing the LCD panel in a netbook (Asus Eee PC 1005)

    - by neilfein
    Yesterday, I was cleaning up and dropped my Asus Eee 1005PE. The screen is cracked inside (i.e., cracks are visible only when on), and no longer works properly. I booted up with another monitor attached, and the computer itself is fine, but needs a new screen. Best Buy wants at least $250 to repair it (that includes their $150 fee to breathe in the same room as the unit), and Asus was of no help at all. (They're incredibly cagey and won't provide any money numbers at all, not even the cost of the part.) If replacing the LCD is no more trouble than replacing memory or a hard drive, I can do that. It's within my means to buy the part (18G241010402, a TFT LCD), but I'd like to know more about the procedure involved. My question: How does one replace the screen in this unit? Do I simply open the case and swap out the unit, or do I need to disassemble anything else to get to the screen? I don't want to order the part and then end up in a situation like this. Is the case screwed shut, or is it like an iPod where they glue things closed? I know enough about my abilities with a soldering gun to not attempt to solder tiny wires, would any of that be involved?

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  • How to transform a csv to combine matching rows?

    - by Christian Wolf
    I have a CSV file with some transaction data. Let's say date, volume, price and direction (sell/buy). Additionally there is a ID for each transaction and on each closing transaction (the newer one) there is a reference to the corresponding transaction. Classical database referencing. Now I want to do some statistics and draw some plots. This could be done via Octave, LaTeX/TikZ, Gnuplot or whatever. To do this I need both buy and sell price in one row. My thought was to preprocess the CSV to get another CSV containing the needed information and then to do the statistics. In the end I'd like to have a solution based on scripts and not on a spreadsheet as data might change often (exported from online DB). My actual solution (see http://paste.ubuntu.com/6262822/ ) is a bash script that parses the CSV line by line and checks if there exists a corresponding transaction. If found, a new row is written to the destination CSV. If not a warning is printed. The bad news: For each row in the source file I have to read the whole file a few times. This causes long running times of 10sec for 300 lines. As the line number might rise soon (10k lines), this is not perfect. I am aware, that there are many shells to be opened in the script which might cause the performance problems. Now my questions: Is bash/awk/sed/.... a good way to do things? Should I first import all data into a "real" local database to use SQL? Is there an easy way to achieve the desired results?

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  • Choosing gateway router/firewall for small datacenter network [closed]

    - by rvs
    I'm choosing a gateway router/firewall for small internal network for medium-sized web service. Currently there are 5 servers in internal network, up to 50 http(s) requests/second, up to 1000 simultaneous connections, uplink is 100 Mbit. So, network is relatively small and not very busy and we don't like to buy some pricey monster like cisco or jupiper for this site. Instead we'd like to buy two affordable devices (one for spare), which can handle our workload now and some time in future (it might be up to 2x more in 1 year). I had some experience with Sonicwall NSA, but it seems to be too complex for this site (we don't need most of its features) and even too pricey when buying two of them. So, after some research I've come up with following options: Netgear Prosecure UTM Series (probably UTM25) Zyxel ZyWall Series (USG100 or USG200) Sonicwall TZ 210 Is this a good idea? All of the above seems to be more office products, not datacenter ones. Or we should stick with Sonicwall NSA? Does anyone have any hands-on experience with this models? Maybe some other advices? Thanks.

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  • What Device/System to use as a "router on a stick"

    - by Jeff Leyser
    I need to create several distinct VLANs, and provide a way for traffic to move between them. A "router on a stick" approach seems ideal: Internet | Router with Trunking Capability ("router on a stick") * * Trunk between router and switch * Switch with Trunking Capability | | | | | | | | | | | LAN 2 | LAN 4 | | 10.0.2.0/24 | 10.0.4.0/24 | | | | LAN 1 LAN 3 LAN 5 10.0.1.0/24 10.0.3.0/24 10.0.5.0/24 We have trunk-capable Layer-2 switches. The question is what to use as the router on a stick. My choices seem to be: 1) Use an existing Cisco 5505 ASA firewall. It appears the ASA can do the routing, but it's a 100Mbps device, and so seems sub-optimal at best 2) Buy a router. This seems overkill. 3) Buy a Layer-3 switch. Also seems overkill. 4) Use an existing Linux Box as a router 5) Use a new Linux box as a router' 6) Something I'm not thinking of I think either (4) or (5) is my best option, but I'm not sure how to choose between them. I expect the amount of traffic that has to cross the VLANs to be somewhat small, but bursty. How much load does routing add to a CentOS machine?

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  • Is 1GB + 1GB RAM better than 2GB +0.5GB?

    - by pibboater
    My laptop has two slots for RAM, and currently has two 512 MB chips, for 1 GB. Windows XP is running terribly slow on it, so I want to upgrade the RAM. I could buy two 1 GB chips to replace both of the current 512 MB chips, to give me 2 GB of RAM. Or, the price is the same to buy one 2 GB chip, to replace just one of the 512 MB chips, and give me 2.5 GB total. The RAM it takes is PC2-4200 533MHz DDR2. What do you think would be better: buying two 1 GB chips so it can take advantage of dual-channel operation, or buying one 2 GB chip to end up with more total RAM but not dual-channel operation? Like I said, price is the same, so performance is the only consideration. I'm not doing anything especially intensive like video or photo editing -- just having multiple Office programs open, playing music, browsers, etc., but currently even opening the first application takes forever. If it matters, the laptop is a Toshiba Qosmio G25-AV513 running Windows XP Media Center SP3. Thanks! Kevin

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  • Is it a good Idea to switch to a SSD to use less battery?

    - by Walter Maier-Murdnelch
    I am thinking of buying a SSD for my laptop, mainly for the purpose of extended operating time when running on battery. At the moment I use a Hitachi HTS545032B9A300 (320GB) (Datasheet) as main drive and a Seagate Momentus 5400.3 120GB as secondary drive. I dualboot Windows and Linux but I don't need the windows partition any longer, a 120GB SDD would be more than sufficient space-wise. Speed is not an issue for me, I make heavy use of tmpfs (ramdrive) within Linux and transfers of bigger files are mainly through some network filesystem anyways, thus a cheaper SSD should do. For the purpose of comparison I chose the OCZ Vertex Plus 120GB. Power consumption always is a big promotional thing the industry uses to make me want to buy their SSDs, some sheet on the OCZ page provides an astonishing comparison of desktop HDDS and SSDs. The numbers I got comparing my laptop HDD and their SSD were not really astonishing any longer. Hitachi 320GB HDD: Startup (W, peak, max.) 4.5 Seek (W, avg.) 1.7 Read / Write (W, avg.) 1.4 Performance idle (W, avg.) 1.3 Active idle (W, avg.) 0.8 Low power idle (W, avg.) 0.5 Standby (W, avg.) 0.2 Sleep 0.1 OCZ 120GB SSD: 1.5W active 0.3W standby I see that there are differences, but actually they don't seem that high as I though they were. And compared to the power consuption of the rest of my system I wonder if it makes a difference at all. Have I just taken the wrong look at the whole thing or may I be better off to buy another battery for my laptop?

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  • Windows 7 32bit resolution is limited for HDTV monitor

    - by Nick
    I have a small Magnavox HDTV that i am using to test a Frankenstein PC build. The goal is to eventually connect to my old rear projection HDTV which supports 1080i via component input. The goal is also not to buy anymore stuff, otherwise i will just buy a smartTV and be done. I have a ATI Radeon HD 3450 with component out adapter YPrPb. The monitor supports 1080p, but over analog component out, should only go upto 1080i. I have had this working with another setup. On this particular setup, i have Windows 7 32bit, with the latest 12.8 catalyst drivers installed. the windows splash screen starts in 480p, then switches to 480i when the login prompt is shown. When try to change the resolution, 720x480 is the maximum value of the slider. I have also tried the "list all modes" and that also maxes out at 720x480. There are two options for this monitor in the devices seciton, Generic PNP monitor, and Generic non-PNP monitor. Neither setting fixes this. Any ideas on how to get 1080i?

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