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• Windows Server 2008 - inexplicable system time jumps/glitches/inaccuracies

  - by Nathan Ridley

  I'm running a production web server on Windows Server 2008. On this server I have a database which logs certain user actions, but every now and again I inexplicably get database entries which, according to the record ID and the records immediately before and after, have the wrong time logged against them (7 days+ too old). For example, record ID 1001 will be for Dec 7, 11pm, 1002 will be for Dec 7, 11:01pm, then 1003 will be for Nov 28, 1:38am, then the next will be back on track again. The problem seems to occur in random records (or 2-3 records in a row) and crops up once every few days. This is absolutely baffling because there is only one place in the application that assigns this date/time value and it's simply the system UTC date. I have been synchronizing the system time to time-a.nist.gov (which I read in another article was a bit more reliable than the default time.windows.com) and it seems to occasionally get out of time anyway (3-4 minutes), but I'm speculating that occasionally the time server has a temporary glitch where the date changes to a drastically wrong value for a short space of time, then changes back. Either that, or the motherboard clock battery is screwed and the reason the time momentarily changes is that the motherboard loses the time and then the time synchronization puts it back again. Could either of my suspicions be right? Should I turn off time synchronization for a production server? Assigning dates to an event log where the dates are up to 2 weeks prior to the actual date is a severe problem I can't have when the next version of my application is released. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

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• Collect temperature and fan speed with munin from Windows 7 PC?

  - by nfm

  Hi, I'm quite fond of munin and using it also at home to monitor my PCs. What was super-duper easy under Linux is pretty much unsolvable for me under Windows: I'd like to monitor CPU and Motherboard temperatures as well as fan speed. On Linux I'm using lm-sensors and the plugin for munin was basically there. I access already some information from my Windows machine via SNMP (disk space, CPU usage, memory usage); the graphs are simple as is the information exposed via SNMP, but they do their job. But when it comes to temperature and fan speed I'm running against a wall. My research so far resulted in that Windows does not by default provide out of the box ability to retrieve temperature/fan speed data. Third party applications are necessary which have know-how how to communicate with the Motherboard chips. The best I cam up with is that SpeedFan exposes a shared memory interface and there exists a library which hooks into Windows SNMP facility and bridges over to SpeedFans shared memory interface; it's called SFSNMP (site currently down). Unfortunately the library doesn't work, there's a bug report at SpeedFan open about it, but it's currently not moving (although the SFSNMP author is active there) . So, unless that's going to work like anytime soon, are there any alternatives? I'm not found of buying any software to get that feature, given that I take it as granted that my system exposes me the information to properly monitor it, but anyway don't just not answer because of this.

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• How to verify power provided to processors is clean

  - by GregC

  Once in a blue moon, I am seeing a blue screen of death on a shiny new Dell R7610 with a single 1100 Watt Dell-provided power supply on a beefy UPS. BCode is 101 (A clock interrupt was not received...), which some say is caused by under-volting a CPU. Naturally, I would have to contact Dell support, and their natural reaction would be to replace a motherboard, a power supply, or CPU, or a mixture of the above components. In synthetic benchmarks, system memory and CPU, as well as graphics memory and CPU perform admirably, staying up for hours and days. My questions are: Is power supply good enough for the application? Does it provide clean enough power to VRMs on the motherboard? Are VRMs good enough for dual Xeon E5-2665? Does C-states logic work correctly? Is there sufficient current provided to PCIe peripherals, such as disk controllers? P.S. Recently, I've gone through the ordeal with HP. They were nice and professional about it, but root cause was not established, and the HP machine still is less than 100%, giving me a blue screen of death once in a couple of months. Here's what quick web-searching turns up: http://www.sevenforums.com/bsod-help-support/35427-win-7-clock-interrupt-bsod-101-error.html#post356791 It appears Dell has addressed the above issue by clocking PCIe bus down to 5GT/sec in A03 BIOS. My disk controllers support PCIe 3.0, meaning that I would have to re-validate stability. Early testing shows improvements. Further testing shows significant decrease in performance on each of the x16 slots with Dell R7610 with A03 BIOS. But now it's running stable. HP machine has received a microcode update in September 2013 SUM (July BIOS) that makes it stable.

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• Windows 7 64 bit Installation freezes after a while durig the setup

  - by vinz243

  I have a windows 7 32 bits on my computer. Because i have 5 gb of ram (kingston) on my asus M2N motherboard and only 3 were able to be used, I bought W7 x64 and install it. It loads the wizard, but after a while, it freezes, and I have to force reboot. It first crashed while unzipping w7 files, but if I wait a while on the terms page for example, it can crash before, which make me think that it is a matter of time. I remember I had the same issue while booting on Ubuntu x64, it crashed randomly but not load completely. No bip or other messages. Configuration: Software OS (before) W7 x86 Pro New OS : W7 x64 Pro Antivirus : avast (bios verification ?) BIOS 03/27/2008 - v08.00.12 Hardware : Motherboard : Asus M2N Processor : AMD Athlon 64 dualcore @ 2.6 GHZ Memory : 5120 MB ((2 + 2) + (1)) NOTES : I ran a memory test using openSUSE cd, though i have not finished it, it ran. EDIT: I tried not to run the setup but wait, and i get the BSOD : A problem... TL;DW IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL If it is.. TL;DW ***STOP: 0x0000000A (0x0000000000000000,0x0000000000000002, 0x0000000000000001, 0xFFFFF8001A49ED1F)

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• I can't get my PC to start up by a normal way.

  - by ssice

  I couldn't write a more accurate title. I am just unable to start the computer by pressing the Power On button. I checked the Power Supply and it seems to give good voltage values in every pin. And this is not a BIOS malfunction because of bad overclocking or anything that may come to your mind. And I will tell you why. It happens that EPS (or any ATX-based) power supply has the ability to be powered-on by the Motherboard by jumping the 13th pin of the 24-pin-ATX-connector to COM/GND. I did it, after pushing the power on button (without any visual response) and, pwhaa! The machine turned on. I was able to read (and even write, if I wanted) BIOS values and then start any OS installed. Machine starts, so it's not any kind of misconfiguration. It seems some hardware related. I am able to power the machine on only if I already pushed the power on button. Though pushing it without jumping the 13th pin to ground for a second does not power the machine. Of course, jumping the pin without pushing the power on button does not tell the motherboard anything, so the computer would not start up either. It's as if the logic that connects the power button with the 13th pin derivation to GND was unable to be activated. What can be the issue? How can I solve it? My configuration is as follows: CPU: AMD Phenom 9850 X4 Black Edition MB: ASUS Formula II AM2 RAM: 2x2GB Corsair Dominator 5-5-5-15 2T @ 1066MHz DDR2 Tested also with only 1 module GPU: 2x XFX nVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT XxX Alpha Dog Edition @ Core: 540Mhz [SLi] Power Supply: Xilence 700W (ATX 12V 2.3 / EPS 12V 2.92 compatible) PS: I know the machine is like 2 years old. I hardly use it now, but my parents do.

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• Video card not detected in POST on initial boot.

  - by Jeff M

  I have a minor problem with my desktop computer after cleaning it out for dust. When I first boot up the computer, the video card does not get detected so I can't see anything. In POST, I'm getting the "can't detect video card" beeps. The boot sequence continues normally, just without video. However, if I restart it (using the restart button) anytime after POST, it would boot up normally. I have no reason to think that the motherboard, video card or PSU got damaged in the process. It was working fine before, works fine after resetting. Took all the necessary precautions while cleaning. On the initial boot, I can hear the video card's fan power up but immediately power down and try again one more time only to fail. After the beep, resetting gets everything running and sounding normally. I've reseated the card a couple of times and reset the BIOS but doesn't seem to help. I'm hoping I won't have to take it out and remove and reinstall everything again. Does anyone recognize these symptoms to know exactly what the problem is? My guess is that the video card isn't getting enough juice initially to be running stable to be detected. I just don't know what I did (or didn't do) to get it to be in this state. It's not a high priority thing for me at the moment, just means I have to always reset it after initially turning it on but will eventually remove everything and reinstall if it comes to that. I don't think the specs are relevant here but just in case, here's the relevant stuff: Motherboard: Gigabyte P35-DS3P Video: EVGA GeForce 8600 GTS PSU: Antec True Power Trio 650W Built ~2 years ago, still running well

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• CPU temperatures high on new build after gaming

  - by Reznor

  My friend had a problem with his computer a while back. His games were crashing, even within the menus. He was stumped as to what the problem was, so I posted on here requesting help. He found out the day later, when his computer would start up but wouldn't display anything on the screen. His video card must have came screwed up. So, he got a replacement. Now, there's a new problem. His temperatures, which were acceptable before, are now insanely high. His GPU temperature runs 70-80c, which is understandable considering he's running his games maxed out, but the real problem here is his processor and motherboard temperatures. All four of his cores are running at 88-90c after coming out of a game. His motherboard temperature was also 70c at one point. In terms of cooling, his case should definitely be adequate. He has an Antec Twelve Hundred. He's using stock fans. The cable management in his case is very good; better than average. He's using the stock heatsink with the processor too, but note, it was fine before the replacement, so it isn't like there's some inherent problem. He has checked the case too. Everything's fine! No cables in the way. The heatsink is seated properly. He turned his case fans up to high, as well, but the temperatures are persisting. Could the processor be overheating due to running games maxed out? Any ideas?

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• Any dangers in using DDR memory with a higher frequency than the FSB?

  - by raw_noob

  I'm looking to upgrade memory in an older motherboard. The processor is an AMD Sempron 2500+ with a maximum speed of 333/166MHz. The motherboard is an MSI MS-7061 (KV3M-V), which accepts up to 2Gb of DDR memory maximum PC2700 in 2 slots and has a maximum FSB of 333MHz. The board does not have dual-channel support. Existing memory includes a stick of 512Mb PC3200, which seems to be running OK (presumably at PC2700) but is rated 200MHz, which is below the FSB speed. The other stick is 256Mb PC2100/133MHz, again below the FSB speed. (All figures from CPU-Z.) I have a chance to acquire a single used stick of PC3200/400MHz memory very cheaply. Crucial's system scanner seems to suggest that this will be OK with my system, but other sites have suggested that running memory with a higher frequency than the FSB can cause instability. Is this true? Would I be better waiting until I can buy the correct PC2700/333MHz stick? I'm assuming that the mixed memory I have at present is running as 768Mb at 133MHz. Is this a reasonable assumption? If so, would you expect the performance differences between 768Mb/133MHz and 1Gb/333MHz to be very noticeable? If I install the new 1Gb/400 or 333MHz stick in slot 1, am I right in thinking that adding back the existing 512Mb/200MHz stick in slot 2 would pull the whole 1.5Gb system memory speed down to 200MHz? If so, which would be better - 1.5Gb/200MHz, or the single 1Gb stick at the full 333MHz that the FSB permits? Is more headroom more important than extra speed? Any help - or even opinions - gratefully received. I can't find reliable information, and I can't afford to make expensive mistakes.

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• USB question (how durable is it, how should I workaround this)

  - by Shiki

  The plot is quite simple. Got a Razer mouse. If I plug it in, it works. After a shutdown/hibernation, I have to replug it entirely at the back of the PC. (It works in my laptop even after severel shutdown, etc, so yes I guess it's my motherboard.. but it still got 2 years of warranty and it comes with quad SLI, its not an old motherboard at all. (MSI P7N SLI FI (bought it after a hungarian guy's recommendation)). So. I only could come up with one "solution". Get 3 USB cable (you know, USB-USB). If its possible the shortest ones (don't know if the responsibility/anything will worsen), AND replug only the middle+closest to the USB port junction, since those are replaceable. What do you think? Any other idea? (BIOS is updated, mouse driver ... doesn't really matter, the mouse won't even blink a bit after this happens. It lights up and goes totally dead.)

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• Unusable network, packet losses between router and NIC

  - by KáGé

  I have this setup: Gigabyte P35-DS3P motherboard Asus NX1101 PCI network card (the one on the motherboard got fried a few years ago by a power surge) Asus RT-N16 router Windows 7 x64 I think the other specs are irrelevant here, but I'll post them if you say so. Until a week ago everything was fine, but then my network became unusable: websites start loading but timeout before anything would come through (true for the web interface of the router as well), I can't reach the computer from my notebook and Windows' ping utility measures a ~50% packet loss between the computer and the router. Pinging localhost is good. The router works completely fine when wired to my notebook. I also tested different ports on the router, different cables, different router and connecting directly to the modem, but it's still the same. Sometimes it works for a few minutes right after turning on the machine, but then it becomes crap again, but mostly it's useless from the start. I've tried updating the firmware on the router, updating the driver for the network card (after which I started getting BSoDs in every 15 minutes), reinstalling Windows, swapping to Fedora 15 but none of them changed anything. Does this mean that the network card is dying, or could it be something else? If it's the card, what model do you recommend as a replacement? (Could be PCI or PCI-Ex x1) Thanks for your help.

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• Computer keeps restarting [closed]

  - by Joris

  I have a strange problem with my desktop pc, when I start it, it just restarts immediately, it displays the bios/motherboard logo and then restarts. I can't access the bios to edit settings because it restarts to fast. Then I tried different things to fix it with mixed success. (I also tried to reset the bios without success) I noticed that a capacity from the graphics card was broken (it looked exploded) so I ordered a new graphics card & plugged it in the computer. It didn't change much, still the same problem. Then I unplugged everything that's not necessary and put only 1Gig RAM in the motherboard (usually it has 4 x 1Gig RAM) and the computer started, then I putted another gig of RAM and the computer still started. (starting=booting windows) When I putted in the 3th RAM it didn't boot anymore (again restarting all the time) so I removed this 3th gig of RAM and this is where it gets weird. I expected the computer to boot again because it is exactly the same configuration as before - which worked - but the computer didn't want to start. It just gave the same problem as before (restarting all the time.. ) Anyone an idea what might be wrong?

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• How to make a Windows Vista boot / recovery cd from a running system without using an original CD / DVD

  - by Giorgio

  I have just repaired a friends computer (replaced motherboard) and now I am trying to repair the Windows (Windows Vista) partitions. Unfortunately, probably due to the fact that he tried to start it several times after the old motherboard had stopped working (no signal on video) now the partition table or the file systems (or both?) appear to be damaged. I managed to boot Windows a couple of times but could not complete the boot. I tried to repair the partition table and file systems using Linux RIP (booting from USB stick) but the Linux utilities say that the file system is damaged and I should run chkdsk /f from Windows. So I now need a Windows boot CD from which I can boot and run chkdsk or any other Windows utilities that can repair the file system. Is there an easy way to create such a CD? Or can I download it for free somewhere? All the links to Windows Vista boot / repair CD's I have found on the internet refer to non-free stuff. Any hint? EDIT I have a working laptop with Windows Vista installed. So one solution would be to make a bootable CD or USB from it so that I can boot the desktop and run the repair utilities. However, I do not have the Windows Vista installation DVD, because both computers were bought with Windows pre-installed.

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• Diagnose remote desktop freezes in Windows 7 when no BSOD?

  - by Paul Smith

  Okay, I'm getting no joy from Asus or Microsoft on this, so hoping for some clues on how to narrow down the cause. I have very frequent OS freezes, always & only when running Remote Destkop Client (mstsc) in Windows 7 x64. I never have a bluescreen, and there is never a minidump. The display & input just freezes -- no keyboard, no mouse, and sound will just continue the last wavelength if any. So far, I can't find a way to trap the hang given that there's no bluescreen; advanced startup & recovery settings for system failure are "Write an event" checked, "Automatically restart" checked, and "Kernel memory dump". I've updated to the lasted BIOS, and tried a few different graphics drivers, both generic & ATI. I've also tried disabling Aero, and everything about the remote desktop experience (incrementally unchecked every box in the mstsc - options - experience tab), even disabled/unplugged external monitor to make sure it wasn't a dual-monitor issue. My specs are: Asus G73jh notebook 8GB RAM ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5800 Series graphics (recently tried driver versions 8.791.0.0, 8.801.0.0) American Megatrends G73jh.211 BIOS (7/27/2010) Windows 7 Home Premium x64 Windows Memory Diagnostic passed all of the following at least 3 times with no errors: MATS+ INVC LRAND Stride6 WMATS+ WINVC This notebook is better than most at removing heat (laudable vent design), so I'm not inclined to suspect thermal causes (especially since running 1080p video for hours has never caused a freeze, but mstsc does, reliably, within 5 minutes to an hour). This did seem to start happening after a Windows Update, but I've since reverted every patch applied since a week before the first occurrence, with no joy. (And I'd only had the PC for a couple weeks before that, so it could have been chance + less actual time spent remoting at the beginning.) I'm at my wits end, and I bought this laptop primarily as a remote terminal client (go figure, right?) Any ideas on how to identify the cause of this? Thanks!

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• Upgrade to Q9550 or i7 920 on a budget?

  - by evan

  I'm planning to upgrade my computer and torn between maxing out the system I have or investing in the X58 architecture. I'm currently using a E6600 Core 2 Duo with 4GB of RAM (800mhz) on an Asus PK5-E motherboard which I built two years ago. My original plan was that one day I'd upgrade machine to 8GB (1066mhz, the max the PK5-E allows) and to the Core 2 QuadQ9550 to give the machine a good four years of life. However, that was before the i7 came out. I use my computer mainly for software development , which I do inside Virtual Machines, and the i7 seems ideal for that because it no longer is limited by the speed of the FSB? And when I looked into it, getting 8GB DDR3 RAM isn't much more expensive than the 8GB of DDR2 and the i7 920 is comparable in price to the Q9550, which doesn't make much sense to me? So the question is it worth swapping the motherboard out for around $250 and upgrading all three components or using that money on SSD or 10rpm drive for the existing system's OS/Apps/Virtual Machine drive? Or just put the $250 towards a completely new machine in a year or two? Would the i7 really give that much of boost compared to the Q9550 for what I'd be using it for? Thanks in advance for your input!!!

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• CD Drive not discovered

  - by user1009073

  I have a self built computer. it uses a P6T Deluxe motherboard, which has both SATA and IDE ports. This was built several years ago, and had an IDE CD/DVD drive. This drive started going bad (would not burn CDs correctly), so I decided to replace it. I had difficultly finding an IDE DVD drive, so I bought a SATA DVD drive. I opened the comnputer, took out the old DVD drive. I left the IDE cable in place, connected to the motherboard, but it is not connected to any drives. I hooked up the new DVD drive, both power and with a SATA data cable (SATA port 3 if I recall). (Sony Optiarc 24x , Newegg URL: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118067 ) When I power on my computer, the drive does NOT show up in Explorer. I can hit the DVD eject button, and the drive will open up, so I know it at least is getting power. I thought, maybe something in the BIOS. When I go to BIOS, boot devices, it shows (1) floppy, (2) my hard drive (3) ATAPI CD Drive. The only other possible BIOS option I could find was uder 'Storage Configuration'. Configure Storage as: My setting is RAID, since I am using two drives in a RAID configuration. Other options were IDE and ACHI. Other than trying to find an IDE DVD drive, is there anything else I can try? The drive does not show up at all in Windows Explorer. I did put in a CD thinking that might help, but nothing happened. Thanks, GS

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• Latitude D600 USB port problem

  - by Moab

  Both USB ports stopped communicating on my D600, they have power, my optical mouse still lights up, no device works on the ports, everything is fine in Device manager in Dual boot XP and W7. Checked the bios, not much in there for USB. No usb device shows up when I use the F12 boot device menu either, so it must be some hardware issue. I have another hard drive with Ubuntu on it, popped it in and USB does not communicate with it either. Appears to have 5v but no communication, any Ideas besides another motherboard or USB card for the pcmcia slot (these don't work to well from my research)? I mostly use them for mass storage devices and pcmcia slots don't supply enough power for these devices. Thanks to all who answer with last ditch efforts. I hate to give up on it, its been good to me and still runs rather well for its vintage. EDIT: I did inspect the ports with a flashlight and did a partial disassembly of the laptop in an attempt to check the solder joints, but would require complete motherboard removal to see them, that is where I stopped. .

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• Win7 Hangs During App Install/Upgrade/Uninstall

  - by JadeMason

  I have a custom built PC that intermittently hangs when installing, uninstalling, or upgrading applications. Technical Specs ASUS P5E w/ WiFi Motherboard Intel Core2 Quad Q6600 Processor 4x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 800 SDRAM ASUS EAH2900XT / Radeon HD 2900XT 512MB Video Card Under normal operation the machine runs reliably, even under heavy load, such as video transcoding. The temperature never gets anywhere near where I would worry about it. However, the machine regularly hangs (complete lockup, no response to keyboard or mouse, no activity on-screen) when either installing a new application, uninstalling an existing application, or applying patches to existing applications or the OS. This is extremely frustrating as this machine is primarily used as a HTPC. Several apps are configured for automatic updates, and these updates sometimes cause the machine to lockup while we are watching content on the PC. In previously investigating this issue, I found one likely problem could be my Logitech Webcam. The Logitech software has a bug that leaves an entry in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\ Control\SessionManager\PendingFileRenameOperations Which references the Temp directory. My registry contained this error, so I uninstalled the webcam software and deleted this registry key value. Unfortunately, the machine will still intermittently hang. I've noticed that the hangs always happen when an install/upgrade/uninstall requires elevated privileges (presumably to modify the registry). I can typically get at least one install/upgrade/uninstall to complete after a reboot, but after that it is a game of russian roulette to see if the operation will succeed or hang the machine. The event log is not helpful, as log messages end at the time of the hang, with no record of a warning or error. My only recourse when the machine hangs in this way is to perform a hard reset/power cycle. Any tips on how to further debug this issue are greatly appreciated.

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• Ram configuration 4x4 or 2x8?

  - by Carl B

  I am looking to upgrade my Ram to 16gigs and I am wondering if there is any distinct advantage of the way I do it. That being a 4x4 or 2x8 set up. In all my searching there have been a number of pros for each profile. I can find no benchmarck results for either setup as a compaison. So, if there are 2 profiles of the same speed, same voltage, same timing and same cas what would perform better or have a better over all benafit? A few examples from my search - a 4x4 set would lend a benafit in that if one stick failed, you only lose 25% of your Ram vs 50% in a 2x8 set up. a 2x8 set up would have less strain on the memory controler and motherboard. a 2x8 would generate less heat. a 2x8 set up is easier to over clock (not part of my need, but alot of the comparisons circled around the overclocability ease of the 2 stick set up). There is one outstanding benafit that I have found in at least the target company I have looked at and that is price. The 2x8 is nearly half the cost. My motherboard supports a max of 16 gigs and I have a 64 bit OS. Has anyone seen any performance comparisons or is 16 gb just 16 gb no matter how you slice it? And is there any merit to the above pros? Edit: as per the mobo specs - Main Memory • Supports four unbuffered DIMM of 1.5 Volt DDR3 800/1066/1333/1600*/1800*/2133* (OC) DRAM, 16GB Max

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• Computer loop restarts on Windows loading

  - by Robinson G.

  My computer restarts, just after or during Windows loading (4 squares getting together), or after some time on the desktop IF I'm idle. In order to start the computer I either have to swap my RAM (24Go) in differents DIMM slots, for example (I have 4 slots) : 1-2-4 or 2-3-4 or 1-3-4, not the same position each boot or it restarts in a loop... I can also change the ram timing from 1.5 to 1.6V and it starts, at the next reboot I have to change it again to 1.5 or it won't boot... And If after all, I succeed to boot, I have to use the computer for about 10 minutes, and it's ok, if I don't, it restarts by itself after some minutes. If I stay on the BIOS, It's all OK, I can stay for a whole year without restarting. I have check my RAM on Memtest (4*8G SDRAM DDR3) : OK I have check without graphic card : Still the same. I tried to reset the bios stack by getting it off and on : Still the same. I tried to reset my BIOS, and many settings about the RAM in the menu : Still the same. CPU temps are just fine (around 35°C) I was thinking ofc about the motherboard but I want to be sure. Motherboard : MSI zh77a-g43 RAM : 4*8G Dual Mode or not (depends on the number I put ofc.) PSU : 600W (enough to run all the config) CPU : i7 3770 non K

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• Can't detect hard drive on Macbook Pro

  - by MartinMoizard

  I changed a few month ago the config of my Macbook Pro with the following: I bought a SSD hard drive I removed the hard drive of my Mac book Pro and installed there my brand new SSD Then I removed my DVD drive and installed my hold hard drive instead with a caddy Everything was working great until today when I couldn't access anymore to my old hard drive because it is not detected anymore. Sometimes Mac OSX is mounting it but it takes like 15 min to browse a simple folder. I opened my laptop to have a look at the problem. It seemed like the optical drive connector was not plugged correctly to the motherboard (that connector: http://cl.ly/2T0X2e1j0J1g47061d1t). So I plugged it correctly and reboot. It didn't fix my problem. Then I tried to put my SSD in the caddy and to boot: no hard drive was detected. So I guess there is something wrong either with the caddy, either with the optical drive connector, or either with the plug that is on the motherboard. So my question is, how can I know where the problem comes from?

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• Rendering a frame is producing noise from speakers in Windows and Linux

  - by Robber

  When any hardware accelerated application is rendering a frame (or many of them) a very short noise is coming from my speakers. This can be a game, a WebGL application or XBMC. When the application/game is rendering many frames per second (like most of them do) the noise is a continuous buzzing that gets higher pitched with higher framerates. This applies to Linux and Windows, so I'd assume it's a hardware problem. The current hardware in the PC is: CPU: Core2Quad Q9550 GPU: Radeon HD 5770 RAM: 2x2GB DDR2 Motherboard: Asus P5QLD PRO PSU: be quiet! Pure Power 530W Screen and speakers: Old 720p LCD TV connected via VGA and aux cable Muting the TV stops the noise, muting Windows doesn't. I tried replacing the PSU first (used a Tagan 700W PSU before) because I thought it was a power problem. It wasn't. I tried replacing the motherboard (used a ASUS P5B SE before) next because I thought it was a sound card problem. It wasn't. I tried the GPU in a different PC because I thought it was a broken graphics card. It worked perfectly fine in the other PC. I thought it might be interference, but moving the audio cable around changes absolutely nothing. I tried using an HDMI cable instead and that did work, but is not an option since my TV has only one HDMI input and I need that for my PS3.

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• Computer slow after installing 32GB RAM

  - by John Gilmore

  I'm currently running very large network simulations for my PhD research, for which I need lots of RAM. I have a Core i7 2600K processor with a Gigabyte GA-Z68AP-D3 motherboard, running Windows 7 professional 64bit. I bought the system with 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHz Corsair Vengeance RAM and the system ran like a dream. I'm planning to upscale my simulations so I removed the 2x4GB RAM and installed 4x8GB DDR 1600 MHz Corsair Vengeance RAM. When I rebooted the system, boot time was much longer than usual (10 mins just to get to login screen). After logging in, the whole system was unresponsive. I tried playing some games (Bioshock 2), but it was unplayable. I've not had this problem before and I have an ATI Radeon HD 5850 graphics card, so that's not the problem. The only thing that's changed is the RAM. I've looked through the specifications of Windows, my motherboard and my CPU and they all state that 32GB of RAM is supported. Does anyone have an idea of what's going on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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• Problems reviving old pc including graphics card issue.

  - by Mick

  I have a PC that seemed to have died years ago that I am trying to revive. It has a dual core athlon processor and a gigabyte motherboard. It had two dual output graphics cards, and I have long since forgotten which output would print out the diagnostic information as the PC starts up. Also I suspect that the resolution set on all the monitors was probably higher than my current single monitor is capable of displaying. The motherboard also has a built in graphics card, so I thought it may be simplest to remove both the graphics cards and plug my monitor into the onboard graphics just while I get things going. Does that seem sensible? Now the other problem: The PC has two hard drives. I have no idea which one is the primary one it is attempting to boot from. When I power up, the fan comes on and I hear some chuga-chuga-pause chuga-chuga-pause repeat indefinitely. I'm not sure which device is making the noise. There are no-beeps at any time. I see nothing on the screen at any time, not even for a second. Any suggestions? EDIT: If T start up the PC without the power connected to the CDrom there is no chuga-chugan noise.

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• Windows 7 does not detect my new hard drive?

  - by jasondavis

  I just built a really nice new PC. Some specs... Intel i7-930 CPU ASRock Extreme X58 motherboard with sata 3 and USB 3.0 12gb of G-Skill DDR3 RAM 80gb Intel G2 Solid state drive for Windows 7 and other programs to run on Windows 7 Pro 64bit OS 2 1gb grapghic cards for 4 monitor support Thats the main components. Well today my new 1tb western digital hard drive came which I plan to use for data to preserve the life of my SSD (hopefully). I hooked up it's sata power input and then hooked up it's sata data cable to a sata 2 port on my motherboard, I boot windows 7 and go into my computer and the drive is not showing up with my other drives. I then re-boot again and check again, no luck. I then shut down the PC and open the case back up, I then check my connections and they all look good. I then boot up and I can see the new HD is on and spinning. I then go into my BIOS settings to see if it registers there and it DOES! It shows I have a WD 1tb hard drvie on sata 2 port 6. So I am at a loss of why it is not showing up as an option in windows? Windows acts as if the drive is not there. Please help

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• Sudden "No Signal" in HDMI-DVI connection

  - by nazikus

  Yesterday I have connected external display Asus VW192C to my laptop Dell XPS 14-L421X via HDMI-to-DVI-D cable. And it worked perfectly fine from start. The day after, Asus screen went blank showing "No signal". Every time I connection/disconnection cable or power off/on the display it says "No signal". And I didn't change any system configurations meanwhile. To troubleshoot the problem, I have tried to connect laptop to TV (hdmi-to-hdmi) - it was fine. I've tried to connect a different laptop to the display via the same cable - worked fine as well. So its obviously something on system level, either Windows or graphics drivers. Also it seems that Windows still see the external display (I can move mouse pointer away from the main screen in Extended mode), but there's just no signal. Any ideas? What else to try? PS. My laptop has 2 graphics cards - GeForce 630M and Intel HD 4000 using NVidia Optimus technology. I have updated to latest Intel and NVidia drivers, still didn't help. PPS. Although I shouldn't have updated (from Intel support): "our Intel generic graphics drivers from the Intel website do not support using both Intel Graphics 4000 and NVidia GeForece GT630M". Nevertheless, it should not affect connectivity to additional display.

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