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• MacBook Air i5 4 GB RAM shows screen tearing when scrolling in browsers

  - by Sandro Dzneladze

  I see screen tearing pretty often while scrolling webpages up and down, and it has been like this from day 1. But now I purchased an external monitor which is huge (23 inches compared to the Mac's 11), and the effect is more visible. It is driving me nuts and giving me headaches. I wonder if you see the same. I was reading a lot about this problem, and it seems to be present on MacBook Pros as well? Can someone confirm I'm not alone? In other words: I'm deciding weather to go through warranty repair, or if it makes no sense if all of theme exhibit same behavior. It is shame to see this beautiful machine with an insane price tag to be lagging when browsing web, when the processor is just sitting there idle at 4-12%! This is an example I found on Wikipedia that more or less describes what happens when I scroll up down. The effect is not so pronounced and clears when I stop scrolling, but it is sure annoying the hell out of me. Firefox is tearing like hell, Chrome less, Safari exhibits jagged scrolling but less tearing compared to Chrome and Firefox. With synthetic benchmarks I don't see any problems with hardware. But this is not particularly revealing.

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• Attaching 3.5" desktop drive to MacBook SATA

  - by Kyle Cronin

  I have a mid-2007 MacBook that, according to the Apple Store, has suffered some liquid damage and requires a new logic board to operate correctly, a ~$750 repair I've been told (would normally be around ~$300 were it not for the "liquid damage"). The unit itself works fine - the only problem I've been having is that the system does not recognize the battery and will not charge it. Curiously, the system can still be powered by the battery and even recognizes when the power cord is detached by diming the backlight, but I digress. Now that this laptop will likely become a desktop, I'm wondering if it might be possible to attach a desktop drive. I recently purchased a 2TB SATA drive and I'm wondering if it's possible to somehow attach it where the current internal drive connects. Obviously the drive itself will not fit inside the device, but as the unit will spend the rest of its days on my desk, that's not really much of an issue. My main questions are: Is this possible? If so, how would I connect the drive? Would a SATA extender cable work? Is the SATA port on my MacBook capable of powering a desktop drive? Or should I just get a SATA male-to-female cable and see if I can power the drive through other means (a cheap power supply, for example) The disk I'm referring to is the Hitachi Deskstar HD32000. Though I couldn't find that exact model on Hitachi's support site, these are the power requirements for a similar drive, the 7K2000 (2TB, 7200RPM, SATA II): Power Requirement +5 VDC (+/-5%) +12 VDC (+/-10%) Startup current (A, max.) 1.2 (+5V), 2.0 (+12V) Idle (W) 7.5 From what I've read, 2.5" drives require 5V, meaning that my MacBook obviously is capable of producing it. The specs seem to suggest that this drive seems capable of accepting it instead of the typical 12V - is this an accurate interpretation of the power requirements? Or does it need both 12V and 5V?

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• My internet drops and will only reconnect if I troubleshoot it or restart my computer.

  - by Paul

  My internet loses its connection and at the same time, and my speaker seems broken if that happens and my mouse will not be smooth as it was before it happens. It already happened before and I didnt mind it. But now, it's happening literally all the time. After startup, my connection seems okay but after some few minutes, even without me doing something, my laptop will just lose its connection. It says that it is not connected and connections are available, but if I check if there are connections where I can connect it shows nothing. Even if, there is actually a wi-fi connection where my phone and other laptops connect. They dont seem to have problem with it. Just my laptop. After that happens, I usually restart my laptop but I discovered that troubleshooting it would somehow repair the problem, but not all the time. It says that restarting my wireless adapter do the job. Are there any long term fix? I mean that could last long or totally erase the problem? I have Atheros AR5B97 Wireless Network Adapter and Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter, both enabled. On the services, I have Wired AutoConfig and WLAN AutoConfig on Automatic. Aspire 4750, Windows 7 (x86)

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• How can I wipe my iPod classic and fix any bad sectors on the hard drive without killing it?

  - by Sam Meldrum

  My iPod never finishes syncing and only syncs audio, not pictures or video. Any ideas as to how I can fix it? My iPod classic 160GB worked well for a couple of years. I used to sync a lot of photos at full resolution to it, but this recently stopped working after I moved to Windows 7. iTunes is on latest version - 9.1.1.12 iPod software is up to date - 1.1.2 Windows 7 is fully up to date and patched The symptoms are that the iPod will start to sync, all audio (music and podcasts will sync successfully) but the syncing will then just appear to continue - itunes message: Syncing iPod. Do not Disconnect. This sync never completes - I have left it trying for days. I have tried resetting the iPod using the Restore button, whereupon it restarts sync from default options and again will sync audio, but nothing else. I suspect that something has gone wrong on the hard-drive - either a bad sector or some corrupt data. Is there a process I can go through to fix this? E.g. SpinRite or a format? If so how do I go about formatting an iPod and will it be recognised as an iPod after format and work as normal? Any advice on what to try next much appreciated? Update I have eliminated problems with the files, PC or iTunes as they sync fine to other iPods. I have also eliminated the cable by trying different cables which work with other iPods. What I'd really like to know is if there is any way to more fundamentally wipe the iPod safely, attempt to repair any bad sectors on the hard drive and then start from scratch. Anyone ever managed this?

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• Internet Explorer will not open

  - by KCotreau

  I recently migrated a company to a Microsoft domain environment, logged the users in under their new domain accounts, and then copied the old profiles to the new profile. I am not sure if that is related since they did not complain about it right away and it may have been a subsequent patch or something, but I have two XP computers that will not open IE8. You click on it, and it nothing graphically happens at all, but you can see a process in task manager. If you click many times, you get multiple instances. It will appear often TWICE per click. It still works in the old profile, so it is specific to the profile, and I would like to fix it rather than blow it away. Here is what I have done without success: Tried opening without add-ons (the one in System Tools) Reinstalled IE8 Ran SFC /SCANNOW I found a script that was supposed to repair any registry entries, and ran it. I tried exporting the whole HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer key and deleting it, hoping that when I restarted it, it would recreate it...No joy. I restored it. Any ideas?

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• Dell Latitude D510 Runs From Battery But Not AC Adapter

  - by Jason George

  I have a Dell Latitude D510 that went belly up around two years ago. It will run from the battery, however, the wall adapter will neither power the machine nor charge the battery. Once the battery is dead, the machine is dead. Since it died I've searched repeatedly for solutions. I've tried a new AC adapter and even removed and replaced the DC jack thinking one of the solder joints might be bad. Both to no avail. After two years of searching I finally found the answer today. Since it's such a simple fix and I had such a hard time finding it I wanted to post the info for others (as it is apparently a common issue with the D510). -----SOLUTION----- It seems this is commonly caused by a cracked solder joint at pin 1 on an inductor filter pair (FL2) near the power jack. Pins 1 and 4 are ground and pins 2 and 3 are power. There should be 20V from 1 to 2 and 3. Anything less indicates a cracked joint that is increasing resistance and dropping the supply voltage. Repair simply requires reflowing all four pins with a little added solder for security. Detailed instructions can be found here. Dell Latitude D510 solder problem

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• Installed Paragon HFS+ for Windows 8, now my pc won't recognize the external firewire drive

  - by Steve

  I'm not incredibly knowledgeable about computers and I really need some help. Just got a Seagate external firewire drive this morning. I downloaded the necessary pc driver (Paragon HFS+ for Windows 8) through their website per the instructions that came with the drive. After installation, I restarted and the pc recognized the firewire drive just fine. About three hours into copying files from my pc to the firewire drive, it gave me an error and told me the files couldn't be copied. When I clicked to get out of the message, the computer crashed. After an hour of it trying to repair itself in safe mode, it restored me to an earlier version before the system crashed. Here's my current dilemma: The Paragon HFS+ is still showing up in my programs as installed, but the Device Manager is not recognizing the drive. When I try to uninstall and reinstall Paragon, it interrupts me with a message saying "The setup must update files or services that cannot be updated while the system is running" and basically gives me the finger. I have no idea what to do now, as it won't let me uninstall and reinstall Paragon, and I have no idea why it crashed my computer in the first place. Is there possibly another Mac - PC firewire driver I can try downloading instead? I really don't know what I'm doing and any help would be greatly appreciated.

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• Not able to access external Hard disk

  - by Jash Jacob

  I have a 1TB External Hard drive which I'm currently not able to access. When I open the External drive in Finder, It shows it's empty. When I use the option to "Get Info", I get the dialog box stating it has about 300GB Free. Tried to get into the External Drive using Terminal, I had no luck. Checking in Disk Utility, It showed that I have many number of files but ZERO folder. I tried to "repair disk", in the process the external Drive got unmounted in between the process. I checked this drive on Windows. I was able to open almost all the folders but I wasn't able to copy anything onto the external drive. One folder caused my windows computer to hang, So i connected the drive back onto my MacBook Pro and tried to access the drive through terminal (this time it worked!) and then I tried to delete the folder with rm command, I got an "input/output error" What should i do to recover the files in that folder? How can i access my external drive on my mac

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• PowerShell 3.0 x64 bit broken after installing KB2506143

  - by Dave Parker

  I have searched using all kinds of variations on relevant terms and I cannot find a single other instance of someone else having this excact same problem, so I am hoping someone here may have a clue. Problem I installed Windows Management Framework 3.0 (KB2506143) by downloading and running Windows6.1-KB2506143-x64.msu from Microsoft.com. Once completed I rebooted my machine as requested. After rebooting and logging in, I try to run the 64-bit PowerShell command shell and it comes up for a second then goes away. The 32-bit shell seems to work fine, it is just the 64-bit one that fails. Looking in the Fusion logs, I found: *** Assembly Binder Log Entry (10/4/2012 @ 1:51:48 PM) *** The operation failed. Bind result: hr = 0x80070002. The system cannot find the file specified. Assembly manager loaded from: C:\Windows\Microsoft.NET\Framework64\v2.0.50727\mscorwks.dll Running under executable C:\WINDOWS\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe --- A detailed error log follows. === Pre-bind state information === LOG: User = ********\***** LOG: DisplayName = Microsoft.PowerShell.ConsoleHost, Version=3.0.0.0, Culture=neutral, PublicKeyToken=31bf3856ad364e35, processorArchitecture=MSIL <remainder omitted> GacUtil reveals that there is a Microsoft.PowerShell.ConsoleHost, Version=1.0.0.0, but not 3.0.0.0. I tried uninstalling KB2506143 (which removed MSVCRT90.dll and caused Windows Live Messenger to fail on load after rebooting again, so I ran a repair in stall on Windows Live Essentials and that fixed the Messenger problem) and then re-installing it, but nothing changed. If it helps, here are what I think may be the relevant parts of my hardware/software environment. Environment Dell Latitude E6510, 8GB RAM Windows 7 Professional 64-bit with SP1 Visual Studio 2010 Professional installed (includes .NET 4.0) Visual Studio 2012 Professional installed Microsoft Forefront Client Security Any clues out there? Thanks, Dave

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• KeePass lost password and/or corruption due to Dropbox/KeePassX

  - by GummiV

  I started using Keepass about a month ago to hold my passwords and online accounts info. Everything was stored in a single .kdb file, only protected with a password. I'm using Windows 7. Now Keepass can't open my .kdb file with the error "Invalid/wrong key". I'm fairly confident I have the right password. Altough I might have mixed up a few letters I've tried about two dozen different combinations to minimize that possibility - but can't rule it out though. My guess is however that the .kdb file got corrupted, either due to Dropbox syncing (only using it on one computer though) or because I edited the file using KeePassX on Ubuntu (dual boot on the same computer, accessing a mounted Win7 NTFS partition), or possibly a combination of both. I have tried restoring older versions(even the original one) from Dropbox and trying out all possible passwords without any luck. (which does seem to rule out KeePassX as the culprit, since oldest copies are before I edited the file from Ubuntu) I have tried opening the file with the "Repair KeePass Database file" which always gives the "0xA Invalid/corrupt file structure" (the same error for when a wrong password is typed). I was wondering if there was any way for me to salvage my hard-gathered data. I know generally that brute force cracking is not feasible, but since I can remember probably more than half of the usernames/passwords, any maybe the fact that one of them does come up fairly often (my go-to pass for trivial stuff), that might simplify the brute force process to a doable time frame. Maybe the brute-force thing might incorporate the fact that I know the password length and what characters it's made from. (If we assume corruption, not a password-blackout on my part) I could do some programming if there are any libraries or routines that I could use. Other people seem to have had a similar probem http://forums.dropbox.com/topic.php?id=6199 http://forums.dropbox.com/topic.php?id=9139 http://www.keepassx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1967&f=1 So hopefully this question will become a suitible resource for people when searching the web. Feel free to tell me if you think this should rather be a community wiki.

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• USB Virus, "Program too big to fit in memory"?

  - by ApprenticeHacker

  I got an installer for a piece of software via usb from a friend.Now what was weird was that although my friend and I had the same OS, same brand of laptop and I had a newer version (though I don't think this quite matters), the installer was running properly for him but not for me. It just showed a command line window and exited. I ran it via a batch file in which I included "pause" after running it. Here's the screenshot: Later my friend called me and told me that it was the USB that was the problem. It had some kind of virus on it and it corrupted every executable or folder on it , and it renamed all the sub_files inside folders to some weird jargon. He had tried using another USB and the installer worked fine. Now the friend has (unfortunately) gone back to his city and I can't get the installer again from him. My question is: Is there any way to repair the installer executable and run it? and Do you think the virus has infected my PC? (I have run a system scan with my antivirus and it showed nothing but still I'm worried)

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• Looking for a small, portable, port-mirroring ethernet switch.

  - by user37244

  I recently had a mac go haywire, taking half a minute or more to get www.google.com loaded. Getting its owner to give up the machine for repair was like pulling teeth - they were insisting that it must be something to do with the network, since so much had changed with the local configuration at about the same time their box went haywire. I eventually set up a port mirror to a box that I could remote to so I could show that the mac was only irregularly getting packets onto the network. Demonstrating this faced an additional challenge: the latency of the remote desktop software I was using meant that I had to point to timestamps instead of just the moment the packet flashed up on the screen as my evidence. This particular user was the reason this was so challenging this time around, but I would like to have a box that I can cart from desk to desk to use wireshark on my laptop at any station where I need it. 3com, cisco, netgear, etc. (ad nauseum), all make switches that can be configured for port mirroring, but in my case, the smaller, the better. For the sake of my sanity, I'll probably end up running it off a battery anyway. If my laptop had two ethernet ports, this would be easy. So, whaddya recommand for a device that requires 0 configuration at each powerup (though I'm fine with poking at it for a while to set it up initially.) Small, light, and cheap enough to get it past purchasing? Thanks,

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• Cloned Win7: Keyboard doesn't work

  - by Marc

  I cloned my old Windows7 hard disk to a shiny new Seagate Momentus XT 500GB using the free EaseUs Disk Copy tool on my laptop. After the clone process I used the Windows 7 installation disc to start the automatic startup repair. This took maybe 15 minutes and then my cloned disk was able to start. Now the cloned disk boots until the login screen and then I can't do anything because my keyboard just doesn't work. I tried connecting an external USB keyboard but this didn't help. The mouse is working fine. Note that the keyboard works fine in BIOS and in the Windows startup options menu. I booted into safe mode and again the keyboard is not working at all. I also noticed that the letters "Press CTRL+ALT+Delete to login" are now shown in italic font but they used to be shown non-italic on the original disk. I have now replaced the clone with the original disk again and from here everything works fine. Doesn't anybody have an idea how I can get my keyboard back?

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• A few tables are still out of sync after running mk-table-sync

  - by smusumeche

  I have 1 master and 2 slaves. I am using MySQL 5.1.42 on all servers. I am attempting to use mk-table-checksum to verify that their data is in sync, but I am getting unexpected results on one of the slaves. First, I generate the checksums on the master like this: mk-table-checksum h=localhost --databases MYDB --tables {$table_list} --replicate=MYDB.mk_checksum --chunk-size=10M My understanding is that this runs the checksum queries on the master which then propagate via normal replication to the slaves. So, no locking is needed because the slaves will be at the same logical point in time when they run the checksum queries on themselves. Is this correct? Next, to verify that the checksums match, I run this on the master: mk-table-checksum --databases MYDB --replicate=IRC.mk_checksum --replicate-check 1 h=localhost,u=maatkit,p=xxxx If there are any differences, I repair the slaves like this: mk-table-sync --execute --verbose --replicate IRC.mk_checksum h=localhost,u=maatkit,p=xxxx After doing all of this, I repaired both slaves with mk-table-sync. However, everytime I run this sequence (after everything has already been repaired), one slave is perfectly in sync but one slave always has a few tables out of sync. I am 99.999% sure that the data on the slaves matches, since I repaired everything and the tables were not even updated on the master between runs of the checksum script. What would cause a few tables to always show out of sync on only one of the slaves? I am stuck. Here is the output: Differences on h=x.x.x.x,p=...,u=maatkit DB TBL CHUNK CNT_DIFF CRC_DIFF BOUNDARIES IRC product 10 0 1 product_id = 147377 AND product_id < 162085 IRC post_order_survey 0 0 1 1=1 IRC mk_heartbeat 0 0 1 1=1 IRC mailing_list 0 0 1 1=1 IRC honey_pot_log 0 0 1 1=1 IRC product 12 0 1 product_id = 176793 AND product_id < 191501 IRC product 18 0 1 product_id = 265041 IRC orders 26 0 1 order_id = 694472 IRC orders_product 6 0 1 op_id = 935375

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• Fedora installed in Legacy mode, how to make it work in UEFI?

  - by TryntaLearn

  I am trying to install a linux distribution on my new laptop. It's an MSI GE40 which comes preinstalled with windows 8. It's a UEFI machine. I have tried installing Ubuntu and Fedora with limited success. I've tried: running it in UEFI, UEFI with CSM mode, with secureboot enabled, ... with secureboot disabeled, ... with secureboot enabled but in user mode. I have had no success with any of these methods. With Ubuntu the grub loader shows up, but when I pick 'try ubuntu', or 'install ubuntu', it's just a blank screen(I've been using liveusb's btw). With Fedora, it'll show me the next screen on which it says 'binary authorised by vendor certificate' or 'Secure boot not enabled' and then stop doing anything. The closest thing to success I reached was switching to legacy mode to install Ubuntu, in which case I was able to get to the ubunutu installer but it wouldn't recognize windows 8 on my computer, so instead of continuing on I rebooted, and removed the USB pendrive to find my computer couldn't find windows 8. After a little dicking about I got it to find windows 8 again. Any ideas on how I should go about trying to install a distro on my computer? UPDATE:- So I ended up installing fedora using Legacy mode. To use both it and Windows at boot, I manually enter automatic repair so I can get to my UEFI settings and switch boot mode to UEFI to boot windows 8. I guess my question needs to be modified as to how do I get all of this to work in UEFI mode, so I can dual boot via selection through a bootloader, and not by repeatedly switching boot mode.

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• How to know whether mongodb is running on 64 bit mode or 32 bit mode

  - by Jim Thio

  My programmer install mongodb. Then somehow it doesn't work. I run C:\mongod\bin>mongod mongod --help for help and startup options Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 warning: 32-bit servers don't have journaling enabled by def ault. Please use --journal if you want durability. Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] MongoDB starting : pid=3800 port=27017 dbpat h=/data/db 32-bit host=haryantoi5 Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] ** NOTE: when using MongoDB 32 bit, you are limited to about 2 gigabytes of data Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] ** see http://blog.mongodb.org/post/13 7788967/32-bit-limitations Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] ** with --journal, the limit is lower Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] db version v2.0.7-rc1, pdfile version 4.5 Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] git version: 9efe4cce272373b52b96de1309c1fbf 0c984305f Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] build info: windows sys.getwindowsversion(ma jor=6, minor=0, build=6002, platform=2, service_pack='Service Pack 2') BOOST_LIB _VERSION=1_42 Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] options: {} ************** Unclean shutdown detected. Please visit http://dochub.mongodb.org/core/repair for recovery instructions. ************* Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] exception in initAndListen: 12596 old lock f ile, terminating Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 dbexit: Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] shutdown: going to close listening sockets.. . Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] shutdown: going to flush diaglog... Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] shutdown: going to close sockets... Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] shutdown: waiting for fs preallocator... Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] shutdown: closing all files... Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 [initandlisten] closeAllFiles() finished Sat Aug 11 22:57:50 dbexit: really exiting now It seems that mongod is running on 32 bit. I have a 64 bit computer and I want to run mongodb in 64 bit enviroment. How do I do so?

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• STOP 0x7b booting from iSCSI

  - by Michael

  Hi, I've a Windows 2008 SBS running. It boots of iSCSI. That setup worked for months until yesterday. I intended to reboot and gained a: STOP 0x0000007b INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE and no idea why. My setup hasn't changed. No new controller, no new or changed iSCSI targets, no new Network Card or IP address changes. I had all Windows Updates on it. Last known good: same STOP. Allow unsigned drivers: same STOP. Safe mode (all variants): same STOP. Mount target from a client: works. Filesystem check fine. I booted of the SBS DVD but in computer repair options my target doesn't appear. When i choose setup the target appears. So, how can i diagnose what's going wrong? Any helpful tools? Any hints? Thanks in advance Michael

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• Corrupted NTFS Drive showing multiple unallocated partitions

  - by volting

  My external hdd with a single NTFS partition was accidentaly plugged out (kids!)... and is now corrupted. Iv tried running ntfsfix - with no luck - output below.. When I look at the disk under disk management in Windows 7 it shows up as having 5 partitions 2 of which are unallocated - none have drive letters and it is not possible to set any (that option and most others are greyed out) - so I can't run chkdsk /f Iv tried using Minitool partition wizard which was mentioned as a solution to another similar question here. It showed the whole drive as one partition, but as unallocated, and the option -- "Check File System" was greyout. Is there anything else I could try ? Output of fdisk -l Disk /dev/sdb: 1500.3 GB, 1500299395072 bytes 255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 182401 cylinders, total 2930272256 sectors Units = sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 512 bytest I/O size (minimum/optimal): 512 bytes / 512 bytes Disk identifier: 0x69205244 This doesn't look like a partition table Probably you selected the wrong device. Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System /dev/sdb1 ? 218129509 1920119918 850995205 72 Unknown /dev/sdb2 ? 729050177 1273024900 271987362 74 Unknown /dev/sdb3 ? 168653938 168653938 0 65 Novell Netware 386 /dev/sdb4 2692939776 2692991410 25817+ 0 Empty Partition table entries are not in disk order Output of ntfsfix me@vaio:/dev$ sudo ntfsfix /dev/sdb Mounting volume... ntfs_mst_post_read_fixup_warn: magic: 0xffffffff size: 1024 usa_ofs: 65535 usa_count: 65534: Invalid argument Record 0 has no FILE magic (0xffffffff) Failed to load $MFT: Input/output error FAILED Attempting to correct errors... ntfs_mst_post_read_fixup_warn: magic: 0xffffffff size: 1024 usa_ofs: 65535 usa_count: 65534: Invalid argument Record 0 has no FILE magic (0xffffffff) Failed to load $MFT: Input/output error FAILED Failed to startup volume: Input/output error Checking for self-located MFT segment... ntfs_mst_post_read_fixup_warn: magic: 0xffffffff size: 1024 usa_ofs: 65535 usa_count: 65534: Invalid argument OK ntfs_mst_post_read_fixup_warn: magic: 0xffffffff size: 1024 usa_ofs: 65535 usa_count: 65534: Invalid argument Record 0 has no FILE magic (0xffffffff) Failed to load $MFT: Input/output error Volume is corrupt. You should run chkdsk. Options available with MiniTool: Related questions: How to fix a damaged/corrupted NTFS filesystem/partition without losing the data on it? Repair corrupted NTFS File System

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• Windows 7 Startup fails after installation

  - by Nadav S.

  I have installed Windows 7 Ultimate a week ago. Yesterday I've noticed that the SP1 update is available. After installation of SP1 the computer failed to startup, and had shown a black screen. I couldn't even go to safe mode and F8 didn't help. After some fixing attempts including system restore, startup repair, bootmgr & BCD rebuilding from CMD, I have decided to reinstall Windows (after all, it's only a week old) After the successful installation, I have decided to first install all available updates before I continue. So after the updates download & installation, the computer rebooted. And now I didn't see the black screen again - but in the "Starting Windows..." screen the logo didn't appear and the system didn't startup. Here I could go to safe mode selection window, but it didn't work either ("Loading Windows Files" but nothing). I've also tried: I thought that the CD was corrupted, so I've used a fresh new disk of Windows, tried x86 & x64 versions, the same symptoms, no change. Resetted the BIOS to default, no change. Memory diagnostic HDD diagnostic Restarted Windows WITHOUT INSTALLING UPDATES, but it had the same symptom, so maybe Windows Update is not the case?! I've tried installing it so many times - that I am simply stuck - I can't "reinstall Windows, because it is corrupted...". Maybe the HDD is corrupted? I've also checked it and didn't find a problem.

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• Linux Live CD only works when Windows is in Legacy mode?

  - by Vee

  I have asked a similar question before and no one was able to help me but I think it was because I wasn't phrasing it properly. This is a better restatement of the question. I have Windows 8 and Linux Mint dual booted on my pc. When I tried to boot the Linux from a CD ROM only, it would give me the following error: error: failure reading sector 0x0 from 'hd1' error: you need to load the kernel first. Press any key to continue... The Linux Mint works fine but otherwise, but it gives this error when I try to boot from CD. The boot Linux from CD only worked when I changed the Windows to Legacy mode in the BIOS settings. When I changed it back to UEFI, it would give the same error. Why is this? How can I fix it? I am somewhat new so is there anything else I should know about all of this? NOTE: I changed the Linux into UEFI mode using boot-repair but that still did not solve the problem when I tried to boot from CD ROM.

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• How to recover my invisible HD again?

  - by pattulus

  I made this several times now, but this time something bad happened. What I did: I installed Windows 7 at a 32GB partition on my slot 2 HD in my MacPro. Windows 7 made a 105MB partition… I knew this before, but what I didn’t know was that this partition is now on my slot 4 HD. My home folder, my private videos and some other stuff are on this 1TB drive. What I found out so far: I’m currently logged in as another admin since my OS partition as well as the two other HD's aren't harmed. Disk Utility: … only shows the 105MB NTSF partition on this 1TB volume. It isn’t showing my old 1TB partition/ex-HD named "storehouse". Only the partition tab is telling me that there now is a 1TB empty free unpartitioned space. Data Rescue II: … is showing the Volume as it used to be with it's old Name "storehouse". A quick scan and a thorough scan both were done in 1 second which leds me to the conclusion that there's isn’t something deleted at all (» hope!). Data Rescue doesn’t even mention the damn "system reserved" partition. Drive Genius: … also shows the old partition and doesn’t mention the new one. But looking at the info it tells me under "content": FDisk_partition_scheme (instead of Apple_partition_scheme). Well D'oh…. Tech Tools: … doesn’t show the volume, otherwise I'd might have been tempted to press rebuild/repair. What to do next?? I think the best approach is to buy another 1TB HD and let Disk Warrior Clone my old one to it… just to be on the safe side. But what is the best thing to do after this… ???

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• New PC: win7 install issues with 2x3TB in RAID1

  - by goober

  Background / Components Not sure what I've done wrong. Built one PC before successfully in a similar way but this one seems to be struggling. I have the following components: ASUS P8Z68-V/Pro Gen 3 (updated to latest firmware) 16GB (2x8GB) RAM corsair hx850 power supply 2x3TB drives on the intel z68 controller 1x128GB SSD on the Marvel controller sapphire 7950 The problem I set up my 3 TB disks in RAID1 controller appears to recognize them fine during boot as one 2.7TB raid1 volume windows setup sees two disks, both 746 GB, but will only let me install to one and appears to work fine. windows appears to install fine after installer reboots, I receive "windows failed to start" error referencing code 0xc000000e and "\Windows\system32\winload.exe every time I do an install, a new additional "win7" entry is added to the boot menu; all lead to this error. What I've tried: updated the BIOS to the latest firmware attempted to repair the install tried clearing / removing raid / re-raiding drives tried formatting the drives during install attempted to clear the menu Of entries (can't figure out how to do that) No matter how many times I destroy the raid array, format the disks, etc. the boot entries keep piling up. Any idea where I'm going wrong?

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• ext3: maximum recommended partition size / handling large partitions

  - by Hansi

  Hi! I would like to do an encrypted install of Ubuntu on a 2 Terabyte drive (i.e., using LUKS/DMcrypt). In order to not have to type in passwords too often, the partitioning scheme will be 50 GB for / and about 1 TB for /home (and the rest for Windows 7), just for clarity. Even though by now LVM is regarded as being stable, I don't want to bother having more room for errors by introducing unnecessary layers of complexity. For both Ubuntu partitions I want encrypted ext3 with the default blocksize of ext3 (4k?). Thoughts: When I look at most partition schemes here on this site or elsewhere, I usually see at most about 400 or 500 GB partitions (maybe I didn't see enough). There may be different reasons for this, but is reliability an issue here? Are larger ext3 partitions, like about 1 TB, harder to handle for the OS or filesystem driver or at some other level? If I make the partition too large, will it be harder to repair in case of corruptions? Are there some default settings for ext3 that I should change for 1 TB partitions? Question: What maximum partition size for ext3 do you recommend and why? Thanks!

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• Can't start Windows 7 after cloning HDD

  - by Paul

  Brief description: cloned HDD1 - HDD2 HDD1 partition 1 boots HDD1 partition 2 boots HDD2 partition 1 boots HDD2 partition 2 doesn't boot Windows, but is bootable in general Now verbosely: In all the cases computer is the same. I have two Windows 7 installations on HDD1 - both are booting fine. I choose between them using standard Windows 7 boot loader menu. Technically there are 4 partitions: 100 MB Boot loader partition (active), Windows 7 copy 1 (25 GB), Windows 7 copy 2 (150 GB) and Working partition. All are primary. In past few days I tried to clone the whole HDD1 to HDD2 of the same size (but 2,5 inch form factor) as is using Minitool Partition wizard. Everything has been copied, all files are accessible, no faults in file system structure, even boot loader wasn't damaged and I hadn't to repair it. But I can boot only first installation of Windows 7 (it boots without issues). When I choose the second installation, I get immediately a completely black screen without any texts, cursors and other data. HDD isn't accessed after that. This black screen is sensitive to Ctrl-Alt-Delete which causes computer reboot. I did some experimenting: Installed Windows 7 to that partition - it booted fine. Then I renamed "Windows" to "Windows.old" and copied Windows directory from HDD1 as it was, using Far Manager, and got the same troubles - black screen. (Of course I performed renaming and copying from other copy of Windows). So, it seems that problems are inside this installation of Windows, somewhere in its files.

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• What to do about old MacBook

  - by John

  I have a White MacBook version 10.5.8. I accidentally dropped it and about an inch of the most right side of the screen is blacked out. I can't see the clock and Trash Can because of this. I checked how much it would cost to repair, and the cost of repairing is a flat rate of $300. I thought that was kind of expensive, like a third of the cost of the MacBook itself. accidentally dropping a notebook is something that would happen sooner or later, so I think getting a Lenovo is the best. I ended up getting a MacBook pro 15 inch, but do you think it's worth the money to fix my old MacBook? I even saw some used MacBooks available on Ebay for about $400. Anyways I don't know what to do with it. I do like its screen and keyboard better than the MacBook Pro ones, because the screen is less glare-y and the keyboard is more crisp and fun to type on, and its more wieldy when I'm using it while lying down.

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