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  • Toshiba laptop cd drive read causes OS to totally freeze

    - by Fujishiro
    Okay I'll try to write an understandable summary. Forgive me if I'll fail with that attempt though. So. There is a Toshiba Satellite notebook. Got Windows 7 x86 Professional (OEM) installed on it, everything is fine (okay.. somewhat). The problem. If you put an audio or any kind of disc into the drive, something starts to eat the PC. Back then when the owner told me about this, he put an audio disc into the lappy. Winamp caused the IO load, 100%. Tried taskkill, taskkill /T, tried powershell, EVERYTHING. You just can NOT kill winamp or anything which becomes the blocker at that time. Even if you kill almost everything, laptop won't do a clear shutdown. Also I tried to use the force switch at 'shutdown' from cmd, but no use. (So: At these times you can use the laptop, but the blocker/explorer/disc becomes gray as a non-responding app. You can try to kill them, but that won't work, nor you can shutdown the machine). (Also tried using PID, but no use. For the highest IO I used the "select columns" from Task Manager and enabled the IO columns.) My first hunch was the problematic disc, autoplay and it tries to read tries to read (still shouldn't kill the PC). Disabled autoplay, removed winamp. Tried other software, etc. Everything was ok. Few days later the owner tried to put a disc into the machine and it started to reproduce the same symptoms but with a totally different disc. Uhm what to know. Virus is not an option, protected by BitDefender (valid license) and Spybot. Thanks if you have ANY idea about this strange problem. ps.: For now, the owner uses Daemon tools + Blindwrite as an alternative for those apps which wouldnt start without the disc.

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  • My EliteBook is not auto picking 1080p for external monitor, poor display on forcing

    - by Griever
    I'm connecting my Samsung LED S22A300B to my HP EliteBook 6930p through VGA out. Laptop has Intel 4500MHD video card. I have latest drivers installed for both card and monitor. Only 800x600 and 1024x768 are shown. A lot of other people get this problem when they use it with docking station as discussed here. But I am not using any docking station. The monitor works great with my desktop though. As advised on the aforementioned page, one of the things I tried was to force the resolution using Intel's "custom resolution" feature. I installed PowerStrip on my desktop and copied advanced timing values(front/back porch,sync width, etc.) from there and then used the same values while defining a custom resolution in my laptop's Intel graphics utility. As a result, I got the 1080p resolution but the display is poor. Text has some weird colored shadow and sometimes on images too. What should I do?

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  • Changing dual-monitor settings without closing the laptop lid on OS X

    - by hekevintran
    I have a Unibody MacBook hooked up to an external display. By default when I boot up, the system will go to dual-monitor mode. I want to use only the external display. The Apple supplied solution to this problem is to close the lid of the laptop which puts the machine into sleep mode and then move the mouse around to wake it up again. Because the machine is being woken up with the lid closed, when the displays are detected the system finds only the external. After the system is functional again, you can open the lid if you want and the laptop screen will be non-functional until you either tell the system to detect displays from the system preferences or you turn off the external display. Every time I want to use only the external display, I must reach my hand over to close the lid, wait for the machine to sleep, jigger the mouse, wait for the machine to wake up, and finally open the lid again because I don't want the machine to overheat. I feel that this is very stupid to have to do. Why is there no button or menu option that says "don't use this screen"? Is there any third-party software way to change the screen setup that does not involve physically closing the lid and playing a game of "are you sleeping" in order to switch such a simple software setting? We are in the 21st Century and honestly this is childish.

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  • Windows XP laptop doesn't appear in WSUS All computers list

    - by George
    I have this one laptop that doesn't appear in WSUS all computers list. We have about 23-25 PCs/laptops/servers in the network, all, but one are listed in WSUS. This is what I have done so far: 1) Changing Updates on local PC: Go to your Windows XP client and start a new Microsoft Management Console (MMC). At Start, Run, type MMC. Use Ctrl+M to add a new snap-in. Click Add, and then add the Group Policy Object Editor for the Local Computer. Click Close, and then click OK. Expand the Local Computer Policy. Under Computer Configuration, go to Administrative Templates, Windows Components, Windows Update. In the right-hand pane, double-click Specify intranet Microsoft update service location. Configure the settings to reflect my WSUS server. Click OK and then close the MMC without saving it. executed wuauclt.exe /detectnow 2) Edited registry key to be pushed to the PCs using GPO [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\WindowsUpdate] "WUServer"=http://wsusserver "TargetGroupEnabled"=dword:00000001 "TargetGroup"="WINXP" "WUStatusServer"=http://wsuswerver 3) executed wuauclt /resetauthorization /detectnow 4)Synchronised and refreshed the group I am running out of ideas here. The client is running Windows XP pro, WSUS version is 3.0 and is running on Windows 2008 R2 64-bit. Please, help! Thanks! EDIT 13.IX.2012 @ 15.40 I should have also mentioned that we do have a Windows Update GPO for workstations group and that laptop is a part of that group.

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  • Enable CPU fan always on

    - by Gundars Meness
    I am using 3 years old overheating laptop and I want my CPU fan to be spinning 24/7 regardless of the consequences. How to make it spin? The problem is that CPU & GPU heats up to 68°C (154 F) right after boot and never goes down, because CPU fan is not spinning full throttle. It starts spinning faster when temperature goes over 70°C and stops when it reaches seventy again. When doing heavy work on databases, it gets from 70 to 90 in no-time and automatically powers off. Bios does not contain any "fan spin 100%" options, just "spin slowly all the time" and "auto" which is more useless than the first one since my fan doesn't have pwm wire. Currently I'm solving this with cooling stand (3x5V), but it isn't much of a help. I would rather use the CPU fan since it is the only fan directly responsible for cooling down CPU/GPU. But how to make it spin 100% all the time? Should I attach it's red power wire to motherboard to get constant 5V (is there such option?), or is there an option to control it via software? Laptop: Samsung R528 2.3 GHz Intel i3 with Nvidia GeForce 310M Bios: Phoenix 03KT.M003.20100622.KSJ (and that is latest update) OS: Ubuntu 12.04.2 LTS with 3.2.0.51 kernel CPU fan: Image/Description Has 5V 0,4A and only 3 pins, no pwm. P.S. Yes, I did clean everything with alcohol, freed the air vents, changed thermal paste etc; that reduced temperature by 4 degrees.

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  • PC powers off at random times

    - by Timo Huovinen
    Short Version After experiencing some problems with Mobo batteries my PC started to power off at random times, the power off is instant and sudden and does not restart afterwards, need help figuring out the cause. Facts: Powers off when PC is playing games Powers off when PC is idle Powers off when PC is in safe mode Powers off when PC is in BIOS Powers off when PC is booted through a Windows installation USB Replaced the motherboard battery several times Replaced the 650W PSU with a 750W PSU Replaced the RAM Swapped the RAM between slots Re-applied thermal paste to the CPU Checked if the motherboard touches the case Nothing is overclocked PC Specs PC specs: OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 RAM: klingston 1333MHz 4GB stick CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 Mobo: Gigabyte 88GMA-UD2H rev 2.2 Motherboard battery: CR2032 3v HDD: 500GB Seagate ST3500418AS ATA Device Graphics: ATI/AMD Radeon HD 6870 Very Long version Around 10 months ago I built a brand new gaming PC. Around 6 months ago it's time setting in windows started resetting to the year 2010. I swapped the Motherboard battery for a new one of the exact same size and shape and voltage, and the problems disappeared...for around 2 weeks. Then the same problem happened again, time gets reset, I swapped the battery again, and the problem was gone for good and everything was great for about 3 months.. then another problem started happening, the PC started to power off suddenly and without warning at completely random times, sometimes the PC works for and hour, sometimes 5 minutes. So I read on the forums that it might be either the PSU or the motherboard Battery or RAM or HDD or the Graphics card or the CPU or the motherboard or the drivers or a Virus or Grounding issues, or something short circuiting, basically it can be anything... I spent some days researching, and decided to remove the possibility of a virus. I reset the CMOS, cleared all BIOS settings and reinstalled windows 7 after a full format of the HDD, but the random power off kept happening. I then disabled the restart on error option in windows and looked at the event log for error events, but they did not help me figure out the problem. Network list service depends on network location awareness the dependency group failed to start Source Kernel Power Event 41 Task Category 63 Source Disk Event ID 11 Task Category None The driver detected a controller error on device disk I took apart the PC, every little piece, re-applied some expensive thermal paste to the CPU, and double checked that none of the pieces are touching the PC case. The problem was gone, the PC no longer powered off randomly I re-attached the graphics card and all was good for 4 months... then the power off problem appeared again, but was happening at high intervals, the PC would shutdown once in 2 days on average, at random points in time, sometimes when it's idle all day long, sometimes when it's running CRYSIS 2. I checked the CPU temperature, because I know that AMD CPU's have a built in protection mechanism that switches off the PC if the CPU gets too hot, and the Temp was 50C system temp, and 45C CPU after running the PC all day long (I did not do tests to see if there are any temperature spikes, don't know how to do them) Originally the PSU that powered the PC was 650Watts and had one 4 pin cable to power the CPU, I replaced it with a new 750Watts PSU which has two 4 pin cables for the CPU, but the problem remained. I removed the graphics card and let the motherboard use the built in one, but the PC kept suddenly powering off at random times. I took apart the PC completely again, and re-applied thermal paste to the CPU, added lots of insulation, and checked for any type of short-circuit possibility again and again, but the problem remained. The problem was like that for some months. I replaced the Battery a couple of times over the time, changed lots of options in windows, and tried everything I could, but it kept powering off, so I stopped using the PC as much as I used to, just living with the random power offs from time to time, until a couple of days ago, when the power off happens almost immediately after powering on the PC. I replaced the RAM with a brand new one, but that did not help. Took apart the PC again, checked for anything anywhere that might cause it, found some small scratches on the very edge of the motherboard to the left of the PCI express x16 slot. This might cause the problem, I thought, but the scratch looks very superficial, not deep at all, and if the scratch did harm the motherboard, wouldn't it cause it to not start at all? And why did it start to power off a while ago, and then suddenly stop powering off? The scratches could not have vanished??? did chkdsk \d but it powered off when it was at 75% I removed the hard disks, the graphics card, while I fiddled with the BIOS settings, and suddenly the PC shut down while I was looking at the BIOS version. This makes me realize, it is not caused by: HDD, Windows, Drivers or the Graphics card I cleared the CMOS again, updated the BIOS from F5 to F6f beta, but that did not help, it might even seem that the PC powers off even sooner. The shutdown even happened to me while I booted through a windows 7 installation USB and was in the repair console. I removed one of the cables powering the CPU, now only one 4pin cable powers it, and it worked for 30mins after doing that, which makes me think that it's the CPU overheating, and because it gets less power, it overheats slower? The things that I am still considering: CPU overheating (does not seem to overheat, maybe false readings?) Motherboard short circuiting (faulty motherboard?) I desperately need some advice in what is faulty, is it a faulty Motherboard or an overheating CPU? or maybe something else? I have been breaking my head over this problem over a span of 6 months. I'm not sure if this is a good place to ask this question, if it is not, then tell me where I can get some experienced help. More info I have also discovered a mysterious piece that seems to have fallen out of the motherboard i119.photobucket.com/albums/o126/yurikolovsky/strangepiece.jpg What is it? Looks like each time that it powers off the datetime gets reset I also found another forum post tomshardware.co.uk/forum/… except I don't have Integrated PeripheralsUSB Keyboard Function option in BIOS :S Comments summary (asked by Random moderator) Q. tell me, if the computer restarts, is it immediately? Does it take a second and then restarts? Do you see (BSOD) or hear (PSU, short circuit) any suspicious when it happens? After reading trough it, it remains the mainboard that is faulty. – JohannesM A. Immediate power off, all the fans stop instantly, all the light turn off instantly, no sound or anything, and it remains off until I turn it back on. Thanks for the feedback, faulty motherboard is what I fear. Q. Try stress-testing the system with Prime95 and see if errors or shutdowns occur when the CPU is under full load. – speakr A. Prime95 heat stress test peaked CPU heat at 60C after 5mins, it powered off after 30mins of testing in the middle of the test with no errors, Prime95 Heat test or the stress-testing with low RAM usage (small or in-place FFTs) do not report errors while testing for 10-60 mins. The power off does not seem like it is affected by Prime95 at all Makes me wonder if it's a CPU or Motherboard issue at all. Q. I had similar random/intermittent problems with my old board. It gave one of a few different symptoms: keyboard and/or mouse would die and/or the RAM wouldn't work and/or it would shut down. It was in bad shape. One problems was that my old PSU had literally burned the connector on it (browned around the pins), another was that a broken lead inside the layers of the PCB would work sometimes if it happened to be hot or if I bent the board—by jamming a hunk of wood behind it. I managed to keep the board alive for several years, but eventually nothing I did would make it work correctly anymore. – Synetech A. I will try that as the last resort, ok? ;) Q. Have you tried a different power cord, surge protector, outlet (on a different circuit). It's worth a shot just to ensure it's not subpar wiring or a week circuit (dips in power may cause shutdown if the PSU can't pull enough juice from the wall). – Kyle A. yes, I attached the PC to an entirely different outlet on a different circuit and the problem persists. After connecting it to a different outlet after starting the PC it gave me 3 long beeps and 1 short one, then the PC immediately proceeded to boot up normally. Q. Re-check your mainboard manual and all PSU connections to your mainboard to be sure that nothing is missing (e.g. 12V ATX 4-pin/6-pin connector). If you can provoke shutdowns with Prime95, then consider buying new hardware -- a stable system should run Prime95 for 24h without any errors. Prime95 mentions errors in the log when they occur and gives a summary after the stress test was stopped manually (e.g. "0 errors, 0 warnings", if all is fine) – speakr A. Re-checked, there are no more PSU connectors that I can physically connect, except the one ATX 4-pin (there are 2 that power the CPU) that I disconnected on purpose, I have reconnected it but the problem persists. Q. With one PC I had a short curcuit. The power button on the front plate had its cables soldered, but not isolated, and the contacts were very close to the metal case. A heavier touch was enough to cause a shutdown. The PC's vibration could be enough – ott-- A. yes, it seems to switch off with even the lightest touch, I switched on the PC, then pulled out the front panel power cable that connects to the motherboard so the power button does not work anymore, after 5 mins of working like that, with the power button completely disconnected, just sitting idle, the PC powered off again, I don't think it's the power button. Q. I wonder if you dare to operate components without the case, that is remove motherboard, power, disk ( just put the motherboard on a wooden desk). Don't bend the adapters when running like that. – ott-- A. yes, I do dare to do that, but only tomorrow, too tired/late right now.

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  • Can't set screen brightness in Gentoo system

    - by Real Yang
    My system: Linux gentoo 3.10.7-gentoo-r1 VGA compatible controller: NVIDIA Corporation GT216M [GeForce GT 240M] (rev a2) output of xbacklight: No outputs have backlight property output of xrandr: xrandr: Failed to get size of gamma for output default Screen 0: minimum 640 x 480, current 1280 x 720, maximum 1280 x 768 default connected 1280x720+0+0 0mm x 0mm 1280x720 0.0* 1024x768 61.0 800x600 61.0 640x480 60.0 1280x768 0.0 output of ls /proc/acpi: button/ event When I'm in kernel 3.8.13, I can change my brightness using xbacklight. I compiled 3.10.7-r1 using genkernel all. Before the upgrade I did get a notice of "compatible issues for Nvdia users" from emerge but I still don't know the details. It there anyway to let me set the brightness? Then i found a ebuild app-laptop/nvdiabl-0.81 and tried to emerege nvidabl, I got this message: Your kernel does not support FB_BACKLIGHT. To enable you it you can enable any frame buffer with backlight control or nouveau. Note that you cannot use FB_NVIDIA with nvidia's proprietary driver Please check to make sure these options are set correctly. Failure to do so may cause unexpected problems. Once you have satisfied these options, please try merging this package again. ERROR: app-laptop/nvidiabl-0.81::gentoo failed (pretend phase): Incorrect kernel configuration options Call stack: ebuild.sh, line 93: Called pkg_pretend nvidiabl-0.81.ebuild, line 31: Called linux-mod_pkg_setup linux-mod.eclass, line 559: Called linux-info_pkg_setup linux-info.eclass, line 911: Called check_extra_config linux-info.eclass, line 805: Called die The specific snippet of code: die "Incorrect kernel configuration options" [SOLVED] I enter the menuconfig again and check the Device Drivers -> Graphics support -> Support for frame buffer devices, then i found this: <*> nVidia Framebuffer Support [*] Support for backlight control (NEW) What can i say. Recompiling...

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  • Firefox crash on first load on Ubuntu Linux on Windows Laptop

    - by Ira Baxter
    I've had a Dell Latitude laptop since about 2000 without managing to destroy it. A month ago the Windows 2000 system on it did something stupid to its file system and Windows was completely lost. No point in reinstalling Windows 2000, so I installed an Ubuntu Linux on the laptop. Everything seems normal (installed, rebooted, I can log in, run GnuChess, poke about). ... but ... when I attempt to launch Firefox from the top bar menu icon, I get a bunch of disk activity, the whirling cursor icon goes round a bit and then everything stops: disk, icon, mouse. Literally nothing happens for 5 minutes. Ubuntu is dead, as far as I can tell. A reboot, and I can repeat this reliably. So on the face of it, everything works but Firefox. That seems really strange. The only odd thing about this system when Firefox is booting is that while it has an Ethernet port (that worked fine under Windows), it isn't actually plugged into an Ethernet. As this is the first Firefox boot since the Ubuntu install, maybe Firefox mishandles Internet access? Why would that crash Ubuntu? (I need to go try the obvious experiment of plugging it in).

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  • Firefox crash on first load on Ubuntu Linux on older Dell Laptop

    - by Ira Baxter
    I've had a Dell Latitude laptop since about 2000 without managing to destroy it. A month ago the Windows 2000 system on it did something stupid to its file system and Windows was completely lost. No point in reinstalling Windows 2000, so I installed an Ubuntu Linux on the laptop. Everything seems normal (installed, rebooted, I can log in, run GnuChess, poke about). ... but ... when I attempt to launch Firefox from the top bar menu icon, I get a bunch of disk activity, the whirling cursor icon goes round a bit and then everything stops: disk, icon, mouse. Literally nothing happens for 5 minutes. Ubuntu is dead, as far as I can tell. A reboot, and I can repeat this reliably. So on the face of it, everything works but Firefox. That seems really strange. The only odd thing about this system when Firefox is booting is that while it has an Ethernet port (that worked fine under Windows), it isn't actually plugged into an Ethernet. As this is the first Firefox boot since the Ubuntu install, maybe Firefox mishandles Internet access? Why would that crash Ubuntu? (I need to go try the obvious experiment of plugging it in).

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  • No headphone or speakers plugged in - Windows 7 issue

    - by Amit Ranjan
    I am facing a wierd issue between my sound card driver and Windows7(any edition). I have a sony vaio notebook (VPCEB24EN). Two days ago, on start I got diabled wifi, charging and speakers. Then I restart the PC and everthing worked fine. Later on I again restarted my machine, and then I found the my speakers were not working. I thought, restart will work. I restarted many more times but it did'nt work. I searched google and found that , it might be due to : 1. Hardware is not switched on from bios. 2. No hardware. 3. overriding 64-bit drivers with 32-bit drivers. To make it working, I restored my laptop from scratched, but while restoring pc, the realtek HD drivers, it gave me an error 505. I then formatted the drive and installed Win7 Ultimate 32bit (With PC was, Win7 64-bit Home Basic). I got lots of yellow exclamation in device manager, thinking now this will resolve my issue. But Even after the installing all drivers on a fresh installation, I was still with the same position. A red cross on speaker- No Speakers or Headphone plugged in. Please Note: My Laptop is Vaio , E Series, VPCEB24EN. Audio : Intel® High Definition Audio compatible but accepts Realted Audio. While using BIOS Agent, I got Intel Chipset 5 Series Audio Adapter and ATI RV370 Audio adapter found on my board. Installed is Win7 32bit Ultimate. factory default was Win7 64-bit Home Basic Memory: RAM 3GB/ 320GB HDD Display : ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD 5145 Graphics

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  • Constant beeping

    - by Bogi Juul Peterson
    My computer has a problem with beeping. I'll first tell you how it started: One night I decided to watch a cartoon, and I took some water and food with me to eat while I watch. I fell asleep and when I woke up I had spilled water all over my keyboard. I didn't react quickly, because it went unnoticed for about 1 and a half hours. When I noticed, I quickly put my laptop on a radiator to try to dry it. When I turned the computer on there was a constant beeping sound. I didn't know what caused it, and I'm still not sure, but I think it has something to do with the USB hub. If I let the computer stand for some hours without any USB connections, it's fine, but when I put any kind of USB device in, it starts beeping. The laptop keyboard doesn't work so I have to have some kind of USB device connected to use the computer. The beeping is going on while I'm writing this and it makes my computer lag so much that it can make delays from the keyboard be from 1 second to 10 seconds. I need this computer because I don't have the money to buy a new one, and I have to use this computer for homework and games. The beeping is constant, with less than a second between beeps. If anyone has a solution, please help.

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  • Getting Dell E6320 with I7 to work with 3 monitors at 1920x1080p x 3

    - by MadBoy
    I want to buy Dell E6320 which comes with Intel Core I7-2620M (2.70GHz, 4MB cache, Dual Core) with Intel HD Graphics 3000. Laptop will come with docking station. I want to connect 3 monitors to that docking station so that working at home would give me some additional boost. Docking station will allow me to connect only 2 monitors so I'm looking at following other options: Matrox TRIPLEHEAD2GO DIGITAL Edition or TRIPLEHEAD2GO DP Edition. But reading Matrox Support Page intel GPU can't run the highest resolution with 3 monitors connected, it even gets worse since it seems monitors would have to be able to work at 50hz. Also I'm not sure but it seems that Matrox doesn't split the monitors as 3 separate monitors but simply as one big space (which is a bit opposite to what I need) Buy 2 or maybe just 1 USB based monitor but it would also mean having 1 or 2 different monitors then the main one, unless I buy 3 USB based monitors which would mean more money to spend. Also I found only couple of models and most of them require USB 3.0 and no other cables to plug in (nice but costly - couldn't find decent monitor with only USB for sending signal and having power connected normally) . But docking station has only one USB 3.0 port. Can I use hub and still get it to work? Find some converters from Digital to USB (I think DisplayLink does some?) Buy different laptop but what kind? I need it to be I7, small (13"), fast and lightweight. At same time it requires docking station that I can use at home to connect 3 external monitors. Some other suggested solution... Edit: I need 3 monitors for work in terms of coding in Visual Studio or having word/excel/outlook open. Nothing fancy. Maybe some movie once in a while.

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  • Strange battery behavior on laptop

    - by EpsilonVector
    My laptop is behaving rather strangely lately, and I was hoping to get some idea as to what may be causing such symptoms. The problem: When charging, very minute or so it loses connectivity with the AC adapter for a split second, and regains it back immediately. When this happens the little light that indicates the computer is plugged in does flicker off and back on, but I checked the adapter by replacing the battery on my laptop, and this indeed solves the problem, so it is probably the battery which is at fault, not the adapter (I also tried to move the adapter's wire around just to make sure it had nothing to do with torn wires). I suppose that the obvious solution is to get a new battery, but as far as battery defects go- this is a rather strange one; it loses connection with the adapter, but still powers the computer, and changing the power setting to a balanced plan (was maximum performance) seem to have solved the problem too. Is there a chance this is not simply the battery, but some kind of other electronic defect? And if not, what can cause it to behave so strangely? PS I tried to recalibrate it- didn't help.

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  • Laptop Randomly Turning On and Off

    - by Ian Mallett
    So, I have a pretty new laptop, and one of its quirks is that, at random times (though typically in the middle of the night), it seems to wake up from sleep mode, churn a bit, and then go back into sleep mode. I write "seems" because its fans are very loud, so it's obvious when it's not asleep, but during the time it is "on", I can't see anything on the screen. I have researched the problem somewhat, and could only find similar issues; nothing identical. In those cases, it appeared that certain devices could be responsible. Nothing is plugged into my computer during this behavior, but I nonetheless disabled every device's permission to wake the computer through the device manager. This included disabling the magic packet wake for the network (despite its only having a wireless connection). Using "powercfg /lastwake" gives an empty wake history. But, I also went through all the tasks and checked if they would wake the computer. None appeared to. The problem persisted, so, after some more research, I found this, and executed it for all power schemes on the computer. The problem persists. System: OS: Windows 7 Professional CPU: Intel 990X GPU: NVIDIA GeForce 580M/12GB RAM Motherboard: Clevo X7200 Model: NP7282-S1 (Sager-built laptop)

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  • How To Replace Laptop HDD Without Losing Data?

    - by Ishan
    Hello, I recently went to Dell Service center and they tell that HDD is faulty and needs to be replaced. I have a Studio 1457 laptop with 500 GB HDD and don't want to lose the data(purchased in May 2010, still under warranty). I have searched a bit and I think it may be best to use a disk imaging software for this task. However, I don't know about a good software. I have following steps in mind: Get a 1 TB External HDD. Make an image of existing 500 GB HDD and store data on external disk. Install new HDD and install a brand new Windows copy and then install the software on it. Using the same software I used to make image, restore the old HDD image on new one. However, I have some questions in mind. First, is this possible? Second, I live in a country where piracy is a big issue and I am sure the support executive who will come to change HDD will have a pirated copy. But I have genuine Windows 7 Pro and don't want to lose it. Now, Dell does not supply and OS disks, so I can't install it on new HDD! If I follow above steps, which version of Windows 7 will be retained? One in the image(authentic) or one in the new HDD(pirated). I am ready to purchase a good software for this task and my budget is $50-60. Since laptop is under warranty, new HDD will be free. One last thing, I have created a Windows Migration file whose size is 70 GB. Can it be used to move from Windows 7 Pro to Windows 7 Pro?(In case I get a genuine copy of Windows 7!) Any other method to save all the data? Thanks in advance.

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  • No sound out of headphone port on laptop

    - by Thanatos
    I cannot get sound out of the headphone port on a laptop. Headphones are plugged in, and sound comes out of the internal speakers. Windows behaves normally (sound switches to headphones when headphones are inserted). It did work in Linux at one point, but something changed, we're just not sure what. Rebooting doesn't fix. This appears to occur whether or not PulseAudio is running. Things I've tried: Rebooting. No effect. Booting into Windows. It works properly, so probably not a hardware issue. All of alsamixer. My only controls are this: "Master" Volume bar & mutable, unmuted. Controls volume. "PCM" Volume bar only. 100%. "S/PDIF" Mutable only, currently muted, has no effect. "S/PDIF" Default PCM", Mutable only, currently unmuted, has no effect. Killing PulseAudio. No effect. (It also won't stay dead! Something appears to be restarting it, and I can't tell what, but it is annoying as fuck.) alsactl init 0, no effect. sudo rm -f /var/lib/alsa/asound.state, no effect. General system info: Ubuntu 10.04 LTS Toshiba Satellite T135D-S1324 lspci says I have: 00:14.2 Audio device: ATI Technologies Inc SBx00 Azalia (Intel HDA) 01:05.1 Audio device: ATI Technologies Inc RS780 Azalia controller Some edits: Yes, the headphones are in all the way. This works in Windows: You plug headphones in, the internal speakers stop making noise, and noise comes out the head phones. Windows says I only have two sound cards: the HDMI port (which I don't care about) and the "sound card", which it claims is a "Conexant Pebble High Definition SmartAudio" In Windows, both the internal speakers and the headphone jack show up as one soundcard, which in my experience, is typical. (This is a laptop)

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  • Installing Linux on a Windows 8.1 laptop

    - by nicoX
    I would like to clean install a linux distribution as Ubuntu etc. My laptop that runs Windows 8.1. I have two options in mind. Clean install or dual boot. My technical question is: my laptop have a 8GB SSD drive, which it uses to boot Windows with and a 500GB for storage. I wonder what that 8GB SSD stores? It can't store the whole Windows install as that would be much more than 8GB. Also if I would do a clean install of Ubuntu could I use the 8GB SSD to have Ubuntu boot up quicker. How would I install it. Option two, if I would like to dual boot, how would I proceed having the SSD to boot both systems? I also wish to ask about the Legacy and UEFI differences. Windows runs with UEFI. So when I'm installing Linux, should I run Legacy, and if I dual boot, what option to I choose?

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  • Wireless card overheating?

    - by Sidney
    Ok, so I've had my laptop for several years (I wanna say 4, but possibly more), it's a Toshiba Satellite. I'm running Linux mint 15, and am having a strange new issue, after several hours of running my wireless stops. It can SEE wireless networks, but refuses to connect to any of them. (On a sidenote, connecting to a router with a cable at this point works fine) The fact that it can SEE the networks make me think the card is in good condition, and it's software related The fact that it works for several hours before booting me makes me think perhaps the transmitter is getting too hot. I don't use my laptop in dusty environments, and keep it on an elevated surface (alternatively, I actively try not to let it sit on soft surfaces where the vents get covered). I spray out the cpu fan about once a year with compressed air about once a year, so I really don't think the insides should be too dirty. Finally, unfortunately, sensors only gives me CPU temps, but they run about 40-50 degrees C, which from my understanding is perfectly normal for an I3. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to determine the root cause of this?

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  • Laptop Synaptics Touchpad No Longer Functional After Windows 7 Upgrade

    - by Chance
    I have a Toshiba laptop, with an integral Synaptics (PS/2 port) touch pad, that I bought pre-installed with 32-bit Windows Vista. After doing a clean install of 32-bit Windows 7, I can no longer get the touch pad to respond. The function (FN) keys on the laptop still operate correctly, but they no longer display on screen when used. I have no way of knowing if the function key to enable / disable the touch pad is working correctly, although the function keys for dim / brighten display, as well as others, work fine. I have removed the device from the device manager and allowed it to reinstall with no success. I have removed the previous drivers and updated them with the current 32-bit Win7 compatible versions from Synaptics website, with no success. The Synaptics icon displays in the taskbar, and the touch pad is available in the Device Manager, both of which say the device is installed and working correctly. I have checked to make sure that the touch pad is enabled in the Synaptics menu, and have tried toggling enabled / disabled with no success. If anyone has any suggestions, or knows where I can find a solution, I would be very appreciative.

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  • Unnamed, hidden partitions on my 500 GB HD, HP Pavilion dm4 Laptop

    - by emotionull
    I have multiple doubts here. Its a Seagate 500GB 7200RPM HD. I had installed it few months back after my original Laptop HD stopped working. The current drives on my latop, as shown by the Windows Disk Management are: After installing the new HD, I had done a complete clean install of Windows 7 and I didn't create any parition myself, manually. So there are 4 drives. Even previously, before I installed this new HD, my laptop had 4 Partitions. But the there were no un-named partitions like the two in this case. The other two were HP tools and Recovery or something. It was pre-configured, Factory installed Windows. Also, now when I right cick on the unnamed Drives from Disk Management, all the options are greyed out (see image) except the delete partition image. So how do I know what's inside those partitions? Will it be ok if I delete them? I want install Ubuntu and dual boot it with my current windows installation. I cannot do it in current setup as there are already 4 partitions of my HD and if I will try to make a new partition, it will be a logical one (correct me if I am wrong here). So can I delete the un-named, hidden partitions and use them for Ubuntu? A bit unrelated question. As a backup option, can I use the Windows 7's Backup and Restore facility to keep a complete backup of all the drivers and system softwares.

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  • Nvidia GTX 660m crashes games

    - by dcap
    I just recently bought a Lenovo y580 with both HD intel graphics and an Nvidia GTX 660m. It works great except for one thing: playing games. Every time I load a game, either with Steam or Games for Windows Live, games will end up crashing. I've already talked with lenovo tech support and they couldn't help other than send my new laptop for repair which would take 7 days. So before I do that I thought I'd ask around. These are the games I've tested and what happens when they load: Civilization V: Game loads fine but once it gets loaded to the game, there's noticeable "tearing" popping up and certain things flash. Within a minute of this, the game crashes. Does the same thing regardless if Vsync is on or off. Total War Shogun2: Game gets to the menu screen. The background of the menu screen shows what is expected - slideshow of in-game environments rendered on high settings (this is expected). However, within 2 seconds of the menu loading up it crashes. Age of Empires 3 (Non-steam): This game is several years old so it should work on this brand new laptop fine. However the results are similar to that of Civilization V. Noticeable "Tearing" and after a few seconds it'll freeze/crash. I've done tests on all these games with both the latest stable Nvidia driver 285 as well as the nightly build 307. In addition, Nvidia control panel is set on using the dedicated graphics card for all programs. So is there anything I can do to fix this or will I have to send it back for a week to tech support?

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  • Lenovo Thinkpad T430 not booting from HDD if there is a USB modem connected

    - by user93353
    I have a T430 Levono Thinkpad running Win7. I use a ZTE USB modem (something like this) for my internet connection. I usually keep the modem plugged into the USB drive even when the laptop is shutdown or hibernating. This worked fine on my earlier laptops. But with the Lenovo, my laptop doesn't boot if the modem is in the USB drive. It shows the initial character based screen where it gives the Thinkpad message & BIOS details and then waits. If I pull out the modem, it goes ahead. I have disabled USB as a boot option in my BIOS settings, but even then this happens sometimes (but not all the times). Likewise while resuming from hibernation. The USB modem also has drivers & ISP connection client which getting installed the first time you use it on any machine. I have used multiple laptops (HP, DELL, Acer, Gateway) but never faced this problem before. I have friends who use other Thinkpad models but haven't faced this issue. Any resolutions, workarounds for this?

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  • I have recovery issues in my Gateway nv series laptop

    - by kshitij
    Helo i wanted to restore os from my recovery drive. but because of some issues i could not do that. so i had my recovery dvds which i made when i bought laptop. these are three dvds. so i inserted one dvd and installation started. and it asked for second dvd and i inserted but it is not taking it. once i did installtion with this three dvds but now it is not taking second dvd. So because of this type of failure i install trial version of windows 7 and take my backup. after it i install Gateway recovery Management. and it is not working. when i am repair my computer it is not showing that Image of recovery partition. Please I need Help.

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  • MacBook says to replace battery. Should I?

    - by Palantir
    Hi! My MacBook says that battery is not charging, and the battery is completely empty (in fact, pressing the button on the battery illuminates no LEDs). If I plug the power adapter off the mac shuts off immediately. I tried with a spare adapter, and it won't charge it. System information says it has 380 cycles. The battery is 2.5 years old. System profiler says the battery has 0 mAh of capacity, and that it should be replaced. Should I just buy a new battery, or should I bring it to an apple point, and leave it there? They can take a look at it (it's on AppleCare), they told me that they will repair it is there is anything wrong with the charging circuit, but they won't give me a new battery. They will keep the laptop for 10 working days at least... I hate when this happens :P

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  • Operating System Not Found - BIOS recognizes, Live OS doesn't (Laptop)

    - by Klaus Borges
    Here's the deal: I have a multi-partitioned hard drive on my laptop set up with GRUB. I got a blue-screen while working on Windows 7 and when rebooting I got the Operating System Not Found error message. I rebooted the computer once again and entered the BIOS setup just to see if recognized my HDD - it did. Next step for me was booting a Live CD and seeing if I could repair GRUB or at least check if something changed on the partitions, but it doesn't seem to recognize anything there. Tried blkid, fdisk -l, not even GParted can see it. What should I do?

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