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  • Completely automated DVD insert-rip-compress-eject workflow

    - by Kevin L.
    (Partially inspired by this question.) Background: I have a PC hidden away behind an HD LCD in custom-built entertainment center. The only visible part of the PC is an external DVD drive, mounted above the Wii. The PC happens to have Windows XP on it; Hackintoshing and Linux might be possible, but I've had issues with drivers for the sound card before. Let's just assume that OS X and Linux are a no-go unless they provide a truly awesome and simple solution for this particular problem. Goal: I would like to have a completely automated workflow for ripping DVDs. Something like this: Push the eject button on the DVD drive, insert the DVD. PC recognizes that this is a video DVD (as opposed to data). PC rips DVD to hard drive. PC finishes ripping, and ejects the DVD tray. PC compresses DVD image into some format that an Xbox 360 can read. PC copies finished compressed video file to a particular folder, so that it can be read into a WMP11 library and seamlessly played by the Xbox 360. PC cleans up all temporary files. Done. The impetus to have this be completely automated is that I’ll never need to switch the TV to the PC’s input and fiddle with the wireless keyboard. That’s just needless user intervention. The UI doesn’t have to be pretty. Nor do I care about speed. And I can probably bridge several of the gaps with some creative Perl use. But it seems likely that many (or all) of the parts should already exist. Any thoughts?

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  • Monitor connected with WiDi just shows a black screen

    - by Pops
    I have a Dell XPS 18 and want to use an external monitor with it. The monitor has VGA and DVI-D inputs. The XPS 18 has no video output ports, but it does support Intel WiDi. I have a Netgear P2TV2000 WiDi receiver, but it only has composite and HDMI outputs. I'm connecting the receiver to the monitor with an HDMI cable and an HDMI/DVI-D adapter. So, in short, the video path is: Computer → WiDi → WiDi receiver → HDMI cable → HDMI/DVI-D adapter → Monitor After setting all this up, I can't get anything to display on the monitor. At the moment I power the monitor on, I can see my desktop for a brief fraction of a second, and then everything goes black. All of the relevant drivers have been updated to the latest versions. When I use a different WiDi-enabled computer to connect to the same monitor, everything works fine. When I use the original computer and receiver to connect to a TV, everything works fine. It's only when I connect the original computer to the monitor I want to use that the connection fails. What could be going wrong here, and how can I get the video to work consistently?

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  • I keep losing wireless connection

    - by posfan12
    I have a WRT54GL v1.1 wireless router and a WUSB54G v4 wireless adapter, both made by Linksys. The router is in the living room by the TV and the my computer is in the bedroom. My ISP is Brighthouse. Operating System Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1 CPU Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 @ 2.40GHz 36 °C Conroe 65nm Technology RAM 3.00GB Single-Channel DDR2 @ 333MHz (5-4-4-14) Motherboard eMachines EMCP73VT-PM (CPU 1) 26 °C Graphics ASUS VS247 (1920x1080@60Hz) 767MB GeForce GTX 460 (nVidia) 43 °C Hard Drives 466GB Seagate ST350041 8AS SCSI Disk Device (SATA) 35 °C Optical Drives HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH41N SCSI CdRom Device Audio High Definition Audio Device The problem is that my Internet connection will work fine for 15 minutes or so. Then the data will just stop flowing. Windows says I am still connected, and the systray icon still shows five bars. But Comodo Firewall will stop showing up and down traffic, and another of my systray applications complains about a lack of connection. What I usually do is either disconnect from the network manually, or unplug and re-plug the USB adapter. At which point the connection will work properly for another 15 minutes. I've tried unplugging my router for 30 seconds and letting it reboot. I've also tried looking for a newer driver for my adapter but I seem to have the latest version 3.1.3.0. This is a recent problem starting about a week ago. For the previous several months things were working just fine. I haven't made any changes to my system that I am aware of. The only thing I did was open my case to blow the dust out of it, then put everything back together. How do I fix this issue?

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  • New SSD freezing on older motherboard (intel G31)

    - by DJM
    I have an ECS G31T-M motherboard running a Core2 Quad processor, 4gb RAM, Windows 7 32bit, Geforce 9600GT. Bought a Sandisk Extreme III 120GB (SDSSDX-120G-G25) and installed today. I'm outputting this from my 9600GT with included TV-out adapter to Component video (to my HDTV). This motherboard is SATA 2 and from what I can tell, SSDs run on the IDE controller and there is nothing fancy to set up advanced features of SSDs. I've noticed on other forums (but not verifying with ECS) this board does not support AHCI. I have two versions of Windows 7 installed on two drives, the SSD and an old 500G disc drive. When booted from my older 500G HDD, video plays fine on the HDTV. When booting the SSD windows 7 install, I am freezing constantly, as in, video plays OK for a minute, then picture freezes for 1-3 minutes (sometimes as audio continues playing) and returns for 20-30 seconds before doing the same thing again. Other tasks such as basic maneuvering through file folders seems to be no problem. Please help!! Do I need a new system for this thing to work, or could there be other fixes? I updated firmware to R201 to no avail. DJM

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  • Tablet as Car Computer

    - by luxurychair
    Okay, so forward this off to the right place if this isn't the right place to ask this question. I want to use a tablet computer as a car-computer. Minimum features would be to run my music (through iPod, Pandora, whatever I want) and GPS Navigation, watch TV or movies while I'm parked waiting for people, and the hard one: it needs to answer my phone calls with a pleasant interface much like in-dash systems do. It needs to detect that my phone is ringing in my pocket and provide an on-screen answer/ignore and then route the audio through the cars speakers. It would be nice to dial out and have address book access, but that is somewhat secondary. I have an iPhone myself and I figured that an iPad with 3G might make a good system for this - but I'm open to other options if an iPad can't do everything I need. I'm willing to write code, and I'm willing to jailbreak one or both devices. I haven't done much work in Obj-C, but I'm not opposed to learning a new language for this project. It's self enrichment for the most part, as I'm sure I can buy an indash entertainment system for less. Does anyone have experience with the iPhone/iPad SDK that can tell me whether or not it would be possible to get it an iPad to answer my calls in the car? What about an Android tablet? (that Adam looks promising, too).

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  • Advice needed for a home network setup (hardware & software) to handle many clients and potentially heavy traffic

    - by posdef
    I have recently decided to re-structure the home network of our flatshare here. Here's a quick outline of the situation. I envision to have the following 4 devices connected to the router via cable: Xbox 360 IP phone Printer QNAP server (Web, File and Multimedia) We are three people living here, so on top of that there will be to 5-6 computers/mobile devices connecting as wireless clients. My goal is to be able to transfer files (when needed) between the computer and the Multimedia server, which I can reach via 360 and play on the TV. I also would like to keep a high level of security; right now I have the encryption on WPA2 and MAC filtering. I don't believe the web server will get heavy traffic, though I would like to have it responsive. Likewise, I don't have a habit of downloading via torrent etc, but I greatly appreciate my network being responsive and fast, especially when I am browsing or streaming high quality media. Now my questions are: is this setup feasible? smart? efficient? can this be improved somehow? my current router (D-Link DI624) and the previous one (DI-524) used to have spontaneous drops in network, which I find highly irritating. I don't believe in my router, especially now that it completely crashed when I was test-running the setup by transferring a large media file to server while xbox was playing music from the server, and two computers browsing the net. Do I need to get new hardware, if so, any recommendations for a reliable and fast router?

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  • Wireless router blocking some sites while using ethernet is fine

    - by Micke
    I'm using Windows 7 and my router is a wireless Apple Airport Express that is approximately two years old. Suddenly I can't access some sites (for example www.sthlm.friskissvettis.se, or www.vegetarian-shoes.co.uk, some streamed tv-shows on svtplay.se, and a number of other random sites) when connecting to internet with my router. It worked good until recently and I'm fairly sure this problem emerged when my ISP upgraded from 10/10mbit to 100/10mbit speed. Most other sites like facebook and google works fine. When using my network cable to connect to internet everything works fine and I can access these sites. Firmware is current and I've tried reseting the router to factory defaults. Tried different browsers, and I can't ping the "blocked" sites either. Tracert www.sthlm.friskissvettis.se starts with 10.0.0.1 and continues through a number of long addresses until it says timeout. The last working address before timeout was sth-tcy-ipcore01-ge-0-2-0.neq.dgcsystems.net [83.241.252.13], if it matters. Tracert www.vegetarian-shoes.co.uk also eventually gives me a timeout. When the network cable is plugged in, I still get timeout on tracert www.sthlm.friskissvettis.se even though I can access the site in Chrome. Weird. www.vegetarian-shoes.co.uk doesn't give me a tracert timeout when the cable is plugged in, and I can access the site as usual. I've tried changing DNS servers to use opendns servers instead, but to no use. I've tried pinging these two sites with a lower MTU packet size (with this method: http://www.richard-slater.co.uk/archives/2009/10/23/change-your-mtu-under-vista-or-windows-7/), but still can't access them through ping... I don't know what to do anymore.... any suggestions???

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  • Getting the most out of a Mac mini as a media center

    - by celebritarian
    Hello! I own an old Mac mini from 2006 (maybe early 2007). It's got an Intel Core Solo 32-bits CPU and 512 MB RAM. 160 GB HDD. The GPU is an integrated chip… Currently, my Mini is sitting under my LCD TV (720p). It's plugged in via a DVI to HDMI cable. It's currently running Leopard. And unfortunately, Snow Leopard can't be installed on a device with less than 1 GB of RAM… So, my Mac mini isn't exactly powerful. Also, it's slow and Mac OS X is not a pleasant experience on my Mini right now. It feels slow and heavy. I want to use my Mac mini as a media center/player. I want to be able to play video files in 720p (H.264, Matroska/MOV files). So basically, playing high-def videos is all I want to do with my Mini. What OS should I install? Stick to OS X? Optimize for video playback? Or should I install another OS — like Win XP, Ubuntu or any other Linux dist? Then, will my Mini be able to play 720p videos smoothly, even though the CPU and GPU aren't that powerful and with the limit of 512 MB of RAM? Appreciate all help. Thanks in advance!

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  • Proper 16:9 video size for non-HD 4:3 video (for youtube/vimeo)

    - by Xeoncross
    Since High Definition video came out on all the online sites it has changed the default aspect ratio of the player from 4:3 to 16:9. This means that for people posting SD video you have to resize some of your videos to get them to fit right. For example, NTSC DVD quality (aka 480i/p) is 720x480 pixels (width x height). However, low-end High Definition (720i/p) is 1280x720. Resolution Chart Anyway, now that the video players are built for HD you will find that uploading standard quality videos will result in videos that are "letter boxed" which means they have extra black bars on the top and bottom (or sides). Correct me if I'm wrong, but in order to get a 720x480 video to fit a box that is designed for HD the best practice would be to crop some of it off so that it fits as 720x404 since: 16/9 = 1.78 (1.7777777777778) 720/405 = 1.78 405x1.78 = 720.9 The same would stand for 640x480 (old TV quality) video that would need to be 640x360 correct? I'm asking because I'm not sure about all this and whether this is the proper way to fix these letter-boxing/display problems.

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  • How to connect 2 routers (Asmax and D-link) RJ11 vs RJ45 issue

    - by piobyz
    I just bought a new router, D-link DSL 2641B and want to connect it to another one, provided by my ISP, Asmax AR 804MP. Previously, I had Linksys WRT350N, and there was no problem, while I had Ethernet cable plugged in to one of LAN ports in Asmax and INTERNET(RJ45) port in Linksys, connection used PPPoE protocol -- worked OK. D-link has DSL(RJ11) port (which I don't want to use as Asmax replacement, while there is a separate Ethernet cable with a TV plugged to Asmax, which I don't want to configure from scratch on D-link). How should I connect my new D-link to work with Asmax? Via DSL port? Via one of the LAN ports (in which case I probably should change the purpose of this port in the config, I guess?). I tried connecting D-link both ways: LAN(ASMAX) to LAN(DLINK) LAN(ASMAX) to DSL(DLINK) (using RJ11 - RJ45 cable) I hope there is some setting in the DLINK's config that I overlooked. I haven't tried to see what's in ASMAX's config, but I guess I don't need to change anything there, while Linksys worked just fine? The only difference I see, is that D-link has RJ11 DSL port as WAN, and Linksys has RJ45 (called by them INTERNET) as a main WAN port.

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  • How to connect 2 routers (Asmax and D-link) RJ11 vs RJ45 issue

    - by piobyz
    I just bought a new router, D-link DSL 2641B and want to connect it to another one, provided by my ISP, Asmax AR 804MP. Previously, I had Linksys WRT350N, and there was no problem, while I had Ethernet cable plugged in to one of LAN ports in Asmax and INTERNET(RJ45) port in Linksys, connection used PPPoE protocol -- worked OK. D-link has DSL(RJ11) port (which I don't want to use as Asmax replacement, while there is a separate Ethernet cable with a TV plugged to Asmax, which I don't want to configure from scratch on D-link). How should I connect my new D-link to work with Asmax? Via DSL port? Via one of the LAN ports (in which case I probably should change the purpose of this port in the config, I guess?). I tried connecting D-link both ways: LAN(ASMAX) to LAN(DLINK) LAN(ASMAX) to DSL(DLINK) (using RJ11 - RJ45 cable) I hope there is some setting in the DLINK's config that I overlooked. I haven't tried to see what's in ASMAX's config, but I guess I don't need to change anything there, while Linksys worked just fine? The only difference I see, is that D-link has RJ11 DSL port as WAN, and Linksys has RJ45 (called by them INTERNET) as a main WAN port.

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  • How to connect 2 routers (Asmax and D-link) RJ11 vs RJ45 issue

    - by piobyz
    I just bought a new router, D-link DSL 2641B and want to connect it to another one, provided by my ISP, Asmax AR 804MP. Previously, I had Linksys WRT350N, and there was no problem, while I had Ethernet cable plugged in to one of LAN ports in Asmax and INTERNET(RJ45) port in Linksys, connection used PPPoE protocol -- worked OK. D-link has DSL(RJ11) port (which I don't want to use as Asmax replacement, while there is a separate Ethernet cable with a TV plugged to Asmax, which I don't want to configure from scratch on D-link). How should I connect my new D-link to work with Asmax? Via DSL port? Via one of the LAN ports (in which case I probably should change the purpose of this port in the config, I guess?). I tried connecting D-link both ways: LAN(ASMAX) to LAN(DLINK) LAN(ASMAX) to DSL(DLINK) (using RJ11 - RJ45 cable) I hope there is some setting in the DLINK's config that I overlooked. I haven't tried to see what's in ASMAX's config, but I guess I don't need to change anything there, while Linksys worked just fine? The only difference I see, is that D-link has RJ11 DSL port as WAN, and Linksys has RJ45 (called by them INTERNET) as a main WAN port.

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  • iOrgSoft Video Converter for Mac

    - by terryhao
    [url=http://www.iorgsoft.com/Video-Converter-for-Mac/]video converter for mac[/url] IOrgSoft[url=http://www.iorgsoft.com/Video-Converter-for-Mac/]video converter for mac[/url] is an excellent video converting and editing software for Macintosh users. A built-in powerful video player, trimming, splitter/joiner/merger tools give you everything you need to manage your videos on mac. This mac converter supports many video formats like AVI, MP4, WMV, MPEG-1,2, YouTube(FLV), Limewire, Realplayer(RM,RMVB), Quicktime(MOV), MKV, MOD, TOD, ASF, 3GP, 3G2, AVCHD/M2TS/MTS/TS/TRP/TS, MXF, etc. Video Converter for Mac features a very clean user interface which makes this task a breeze. You can trim/clip any segments and optionally merge/join and sort them to create your personal movie, crop frame size to remove any unwanted area in the frame just like a pair of smart scissors and set the output video parameters such as video resolution, video frame rate, audio codec, video codec and video quality. Converted videos can be imported into imovie/itunes/FCE/FCP/QuickTime Pro or played on iPad, iPod touch, iPod classic, iPod nano, iPhone, iPhone 3GS, Apple TV, PSP, PS3, Creative Zen, iRiver PMP, Archos, mobile phones and other MP4/MP3 players. Video Converter for Mac makes video conversion easy. Free download now and have a try for yourself! [url=http://www.iorgsoft.com/Video-Editor-for-Mac/]Video Editor for Mac[/url] [url=http://www.iorgsoft.com/Mod-Converter/]mod converter[/url] [url=http://www.iorgsoft.com/Mod-Converter-for-Mac/]mod converter for mac[/url]

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  • Xp SP3 - Non-Functioning

    - by Josh
    Ok Here is a crazy problem, I have a HP dv6000 Laptop that can no longer hold a charge, so I hooked it up to my TV, bought a wireless mouse and keyboard and configured xp to run with the lid closed, It has medium to heavy usage mainly just streaming from sites like Netfilx, Hulu, ABC, etc. And playing movies I ripped of dvd. It ran fine for a while but recently it has been having some weird problems: Problem one: I used to use firefox but now when run it I can type but as soon as I click something it just shuts down, completely, I can't even close it unless I use taskmanager to do it. So I went and got google chrome which is better but still hit or miss, but never completely shuts down, I just can't click anything or type anything, or sometimes I just can't type anything or vice versa. Also when I open a new tab, and try to move back to my old one, it automatically closes the old tab when I click on it. Problem two: When using the internet I can't use any other application or anything windows (ie. Windows explorer) until I force quit all browsers with taskmanger. The reason I can't run anything is because I can't click on it. Problem three: When I try to play a movie (with vlc) Once it starts playing I can't click on anything, but I can use hotkeys, and once it stops everything is fine again. Well I hope somebody knows whats going on because I have no clue, If you need clarification or more info on something I would be happy to provide it...

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  • online backup plan for a home office with servers

    - by TiernanO
    So, i am in the process of tweaking my spending and i need to change my backup plan... I am currently using a mix of JungleDisk and ZManda ZCB to backup files on my MacBook Pro, Main Windows Server Wrokstation, a dedicated Windows Server in a datacenter, and various other machines and file sources. The problem is the cost: this month, it has cost me about $90 to backup a little over 500Gb... This amount of data will increese over time too, since i am backing up Photos (24Mb RAW images + 4-8MB JPEGs), Videos (various cameras shooting 720p and 1080p), Music, Movies, TV shows and Apps from iTunes (though with iTunes cloud, this might not need to be backed up again) and source code... I have looked at the likes of Mozy, CrashPlan+ and Pro, Backblaze and Carbonite, but each have their problems: Mozy seems overly expenvice per gig at 50C Crashplan wont sell to me since i am outside the US (they hide it on their site... hidden in the FAQ section!) Backblaze dont support Windows Server Carbonite business pricing is $600 up front for 500Gb of storage... Fro $229, they will not backup Windows Servers. So, other than those, Jungle Disk (at 15c per Gig) or ZManda (also at 15c per Gig) what other options are there? what are other people using?

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  • New hard drive for backup? [closed]

    - by glaeven
    I have come to realize that I need another external drive to use with my MacBook Pro. I currently have a 1TB WD MyBook Essential that I have been using for about a year and a half. I have it currently partitioned into two drives, one for backup (I named it Leonov) and one for movies, TV shows and other large files I don't need very often (I call that side Discovery One). I use Time Machine for backups since it is completely automated and I can restore from it without much trouble (I have had to at least three times now). As of now, Leonov is full enough that every backup deletes an old one and Discovery One is approaching it's limits. I would like to get a new drive and move one of the sides to it. What are some reliable, external (~1TB) drives for under or around $100? Would it be easier to move the movies (et al.) or the backups to the new drive? I also feel like I should say that all of my important documents (for school and the like, just not my music) are also synced to Dropbox as another form of backup and access.

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  • What Wireless Router/ADSL Modem to get? N-band a must!!

    - by JJarava
    I'm looking for a Dual-N band Router OR ADSL Gateway and I'd like some recommendations. Situation: I have a 802.11b/g ADSL gateway provided by my telco, but the WIFI signal won't cover all the house (especially the living-room, so my tv-connected Mac Mini has poor to no internet access). So I'm looking to either replace the DSL modem with a N-enabled one, or to add a Router to the mix. I've had a modem+router setup for many years, and I know the advantatges (double NAT, double FW = more security) and issues (more complex to troubleshoot, two possible points of failure), so I'd rather live with a single (ADSL Gateway) device, if possible. Requirements: Dual-N Band (300 Mbs WIFI) 1 GB Ethernet ports ADSL2+ support (if it's a ADSL gateway, which would be desirable) "Best" range and speed possible Nice to have: USB port to share disks/printers on the network Media streaming I've been a long time user of Linksys, so googling around I found the WRT610N (http://www.linksysbycisco.com/US/en/products/WRT610N) for a "Pure Router" perspective, and it's one of those that Linksys styles "N++" (http://www.linksysbycisco.com/US/en/promo/Promotion-Go-Wireless?stepname=Promotion-Step-Go-Wireless-High-Performance) But I haven't been able to find similar "ADSL" gateways. I've found the WAG320N, but there is little to no info in the Linksys site (i.e., i don't know if it's Dual Band, or if it has GB ethernet) Any opinions/recommendations of other products/suggestions are more than welcome.

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  • No signal on monitor after plug it to a linux box

    - by yaroot
    I use my old computer as an NAS, so I remove the monitor after I installed linux on it (disconnect vga cable). I use ssh to control the machine and it works fine. Until some day, after kernel/softare upgrade or messing up some configs, I cannot connect to it through ssh, then I have to plug the monitor back, but the monitor says "No input signal". So I have to restart the computer WITH the monitor connected, and the monitor's back! I think the computer/linux kernel doesn't detect the monitor plug-in event. So how can I start my linux box without a monitor, but when it goes wrong I can still plug my monitor (vga) back and use the console. Edit: just one pci-e video card, has dvi, vga, tv/out (s-video) Edit2: Xorg is not running. I just need the console (CTRL+ALT+F1). The problem is, if the machine booted without a monitor connected, it won't give me a pseudo terminal after I attach the vga cable while it's running. Clearly the monitor is not auto detected as usb device. I'm wondering how to let the monitor auto detected.

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  • Best way to convert episodic DVDs for Windows Media Center?

    - by Roger Lipscombe
    I'm archiving my DVD collection. My goal is to be able to play them back in Windows Media Center. For feature-length DVDs, I'm using AnyDVD and CloneDVD, which is working well. For playing back TV shows (and other episodic content), I'm using Media Browser, which doesn't support a VIDEO_TS folder per episode. It expects the shows to be broken up into one file per episode (e.g. "Willo the Wisp - S01E12.avi"). For this, I'm attempting to use Handbrake, which, for extracting the episodes from DVD (or already-ripped VIDEO_TS folder), is working pretty well. The problem that I have is that the default x264 encoder over-compresses the resulting video stream, which results in hideous artifacts in animated shows. The aforementioned Willo the Wisp is a particularly bad example, because the original DVD is particularly "noisy". If I switch to using the ffmpeg encoder, the artifacts are gone in Windows Media Player, but I can't get the resulting files to play back in Windows Media Center. I see the first frame, and then there's an error message. I've installed the CCCP codec collection, but it doesn't seem to have made any difference. So: what's the best way to convert VIDEO_TS to individual episode files for playback in Windows Media Center?

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  • Is there any free software to check for issues with a DVD drive?

    - by AgentConundrum
    I don't usually play movies on my laptop (prefer the standalone with the tv), but I tried to watch one the other night, and noticed playback was really choppy and had audio artifacts in places. I thought it could be related to memory issues so I rebooted and tried again, but the results were the same. I considered that it could be an issue with the disc, so I tried to clean it but again there was no change. I don't think the problem is with the disc, because I tried another disc and it also had the same problem. I don't think I've ever watched the second disc since I've had it, so it should have been safe in its jewel case. Also, there were no issues when I watched an episode off the first disc in my standalone player. What I'm wondering is: are there are any (free) utilities that can check for issues with the drive itself? I looked around but most of the software I found focuses on integrity checks for the disc, not the drive. I have had issues with this laptop recently (had to replace the keyboard when the cat damaged it while I was cleaning dust out and the machine was ripped apart, also replaced part of the chassis after I cracked it when I tried to open it not knowing a screw was still in it) so I may have just replaced the drive incorrectly. I'm going to check on this while I await an answer to this question. Thanks.

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  • Sharing files between 2 different routers

    - by Chris
    I realize this has been asked before and I have read as much as I could find on the topic but I still need help with this because there are so many different approaches and the ones I am trying aren't working. So I have 2 routers, lets call them A and B. Both have a wireless feature and are active. A is in the basement and receives the internet. There is a TV on the ground floor that is connected to A through an ethernet wire. B is upstairs and gets the internet from A through an ethernet wire. Connected to B, is a desktop running Plex Media Server. What I want to do is make sure devices connected to both routes can access the Plex Media Server. So what I have read is that I should plug in the ethernet wire connecting B to a into a LAN port instead of the WAN port. After that I should turn off DHCP. I have tried this and B stops receiving internet. What am I doing wrong? Another thing I have read is to use Router B in bridge mode but Router B is running openwrt and I have QoS on it so gaming/VoIP/browsing is unaffected by heavy downloading/uploading. I would prefer to keep this active. I realize it might be ineffective if a device in Router A is doing some hardcore downloading but all that stuff is done on Router B anyway so it doesn't matter. Router A can't get openwrt because it is a shitty one provided by Bell. So, how do I proceed with this?

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  • What is the fastest and best way to convert an rmvb video to mp4/mkv without losing any quality?

    - by Eric Leung
    the file will be played in a popbox3d. my old method was to convert the video using vidcoder (an offshoot of handbrake) using normal settings, but i've recently confirmed that this significantly reduces video and audio quality. i bumped up the conversion quality to 'high profile' and this produced a higher quality video but raised the conversion time to about twice the video length (95 minutes to convert a 45 minute video) on a core2duo laptop. this is less than ideal when a large number of videos need to be converted. i have tried a direct remuxing using mkv toolnix but this produced a video that refused to display video on the popbox3d, which is consistent with the reported: [quote=other old thread] it is possible to put RealMedia A/V in MKV container (used MKVtoolnix) - however, it is awkward to play later. RV40 is only suspected to be based on H.264 - simplify, is not consistent with MPEG-4 AVC specification. [/quote] i have read that ... [quote=from old thread] Under normal circumstances, [ffmpeg] should convert the video to .video.mp4 and the audio to (.wav then to) .audio.mp4, then mux the video and audio into a new .mp4 file and delete the temporary video-only and audio-only files.[/quote] and i am currently attempting to discover how this is done. help? PS: i download a lot of series from asia and for some strange reason, rmvb is a really popular format over there. sometimes, it's the only format that's available. unfortunately, it's a format that is incompatible with the popbox3d, so i have to convert the files before i can watch them on my tv.

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  • Photoshop CS6 Corrupted File recovery

    - by Ben Franchuk
    Last night I was working on a client application mock-up in photoshop, but was goin to take a break from my work so I saved the .PSD file on my internal HDD and put my computer into stand-by mode once the file had finished saving. Unfortunately my computer crashed while it was entering stand-by and shut itself down (photoshop was still open). I did not boot it again to make sure all my files were ok because they had already been saved, but today once I opened up the file again it was extremely corrupted and also completely un-editable (screenshot bellow). so what im asking is there any way to recover my work, or at least some of it? i have put in a good few days work on this project and would hate to have to restart it. the size of the file is 3070 KB, even though it reads as 712 KB in photoshop. i dont know if these file sizes are larger or either smaller than the original non-corrupted file's size, but considering all the layers in the file i suspect it was larger before it corrupted. im using windows XP professional 32bit SP3. both my OS and said .PSD file are located on the same internal HDD (74.4 GB). i do have an external HDD (1.5 TB) but i primarily only use it for movies music and tv shows. i dont know if it was plugged in t the time of me editing the document last, though, if it means anything. i have tried many image and PSd recovery softwares but none have returned any results that may help recover my work. edit: i tried using a photo reccovery software (odboso Photorecovery) that actually seems to recover the corrupted file in question judging by the size of the file, but i cannot recover it because of the licence fee. knowing that the file is still likely on my HDD, what location might it be located?

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  • Malware Defense Shows Up in PlayOn Settings/Logs Although System Has Been Thoroughly Cleaned

    - by nicorellius
    I was hit really hard by some nasty malware: Malware Defense. I was doing something I should not have been doing when I got it (surfing Pirate Bay for TV shows). It locked up my system and I had to reboot in safe mode. I was able to shut down the process and remove it using a malware killer tool. I then installed, after my machine was cleaned up a bit, Clamwin, Malwarebytes, and another AV tool. I cleaned the heck out of my system. Simultaneously, while this was going on, I was having trouble with my media-server, PlayOn. This tool is great, but has some bugs. One in particular is that it will not function well with AV software running. I found a way to allow the new AV software to run while using PlayOn, but it still says I have Malware Defense on. Firstly, Malware Defense is long gone. I cleaned all remnants from my registry and scoured my system with the above tools multiple times. PlayOn is getting some information that I have this crap installed on my system, but it's not. The system runs OK, but not optimally. I have a feeling it is causing my streaming to be interrupted sometimes. How is it that I can't even find Malware Defense on my system if I tried but yet somehow PlayOn is getting a finger print of it somewhere? I have gone back and forth with MediaMall to no avail. I kind of just gave up, because the streaming works OK. BTW, I also uninstalled/reinstalled PlayOn several times, reverted back to previous versions, etc. The only thing I haven't done is reformat my disk and reinstall Windows. I really don't want to do this if there is another way to remove this little print. Any ideas?

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  • Can I disable this Windows (XP) Security Warning?

    - by FumbleFingers
    I recently reformatted my hard drive and reinstalled Windows XP (I know I'll have to take the plunge and commit to Win8 "real soon, now", but I'm just not quite ready for the upheaval yet! :) I used to use WinRar (and later, when I got fed up with the "nag" messages, 7-Zip), but I haven't installed either of them in my new configuration, so I must be using the built-in XP facility when I open *.zip files. For years, I've been opening downloaded *.zip archives, and using "drag & drop" to copy to a File Explorer window open on the folder where I want the files to end up (usually, My Documents\Downloads). But now I find that when I "drop" the file(s), I get a pop-up Windows Security Warning saying Are you sure you want to copy or move files to this folder? You should only move or copy files from locations that you trust Can anyone explain why I'm getting this message, and is there any (reasonably easy, please! :) way to suppress it? Since I've already put the *.zip file on my computer, it seems a bit late to ask if I trust it. (Thus far, the files in question have always been plain text, so it's not a matter of dodgy programs, etc.) Apologies for the low quality image - I don't have the appropriate tools or knowledge to do any better, and it doesn't help that my "PrtScr" screen capture has included what would have been on my second monitor (TV) if it had been turned on. If you can't read it, trust me - I have copied the text verbatim.

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