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  • What is some good lossless video codec for recording gameplay?

    - by Don Salva
    I'm an avid gamer and I like to record my gameplay. Usually I've been using Fraps to do it, however I'm thinking of switching to Dxtory as it allows to write on multiple HDDs at once. Say I have 3 HDDs with the following write speeds: HDD1 with 50 mb/s, HDD2 with 22 mb/s and HDD3 with 45 mb/s. Combined write speed would be: 117 mb/s. Dxtory allows you to utilize all 3 HDD's at once while recording your gameplay. Using this formula: RGB24 YUV24: Width x Height x 3 x fps = bitrate (byte/sec) YUV420: Width x Height x 3 / 2 x fps = bitrate (byte/sec) YUV410: Width x Height x 9 / 8 x fps = bitrate (byte/sec) And recording in YUV420 colorspace at 1920x1080 with 30 fps I'd need about 95 mb/s write speed. Dxtory is good because it allows me to play with constant 60 fps while recording in 30 fps. Fraps does not (even though they say it does), once you start recording with Fraps, the game's fps drops. So I'm looking for a codec that doesn't need a very high write speed (bitrate) yet records in good (lossless) quality. Dxtory comes with its own codec, the Dxtory codec. Which allows me some experimentation. Fraps has it's own codec which I can use in Dxtory to expirement around. I also came across http://lags.leetcode.net/codec.html . Are there more lossless codecs out there (besides Fraps' and Dxtory's) which are good for what I want to do? Edit: To clarify, yes, I'm aware a lossless codec always has "good" quality. But that's not what I'm looking for. Let me take the Fraps codec and Dxtory codec to clarify what I'm looking for. When I record with the Dxtory codec in RGB colorspace at 1920x1080 with targeted 30 fps, I can play the game at 60 fps, BUT I'm recording with 10-15 fps, that's because RGB with Dxtory needs much, much more write speed than my hdd can handle. When recording with Dxtory codec in YUV410 colorspace at 1920x1080 with targeted 30 fps, I can play at 60 fps and record at 30 fps, again, that's because YUV410 in Dxtory's codec takes much, much less write speed than RGB When recording with Fraps codec in ??? (I dunno the color space Fraps records in, I guess YUV420), I can play with 60 fps and record with 30 fps. What I'm looking for is a lossless codec that can record in YUV420 (or even RGB??) which does not exceed a write speed (or bitrate if you will) of 100 mb/s in 1920x1080 or in other words, which will allow me to record in constant 30fps. Obviously the best solution would be to buy an SDD, but that's not what I'm after.

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  • XP OEM licensing when reinstalling Windows XP

    - by mindas
    My wife has managed to buy a Dell laptop she was using at her ex-employer that just went bust. The problem with it is the OS (Windows XP) which takes ages to boot and is generally disproportionally slow to the hardware of the machine. So my aim is to sacrifice a day and reinstall it. The problem I am slightly worried about is the licensing/registration/activation hell. Apart from the sticker (with WinXP license key), the laptop has no other paperwork proving this license is legitimate. I believe this was originally an OEM license. Unfortunately, I don't have the the installation CD. This computer also has MS Office installed (which I would like to retain) but it none of MS Office apps would launch due to some obscure error complaining about lack of free disk space (which computer has plenty of). I have absolutely no clue what kind of license this MS Office was. And because the company has gone into the administration, there is no way of getting this information nor installable media. I believe that by buying the hardware I have also acquired the software which I can use as I see fit. Correct me if I'm wrong. Above said, my question would be: What is the easiest way of reinstalling the XP? By easiest I mean avoiding spending my time to prove Microsoft support I've got the right to use the software (insert your computer says noooo joke here) but still being able to get to fresh virgin activated legal state of the XP. I used to work as a sysadmin many years ago so I am not afraid of any technical difficulties. The same question applies to MS Office. I imagine the process would consist of backing up all the data, pulling some bits from the registry and using that on the fresh install. As for reinstall I'd expect to use some sort of OEM Windows repair CD from Dell, right? Are those freely available? My other box (HP) has such a thing and it can't be used on any other brand. I'm sure somebody had to go through this licensing hell and could share his/her tips. Thanks in advance.

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  • Can someone explain RAID-0 in plain English?

    - by Edward Tanguay
    I've heard about and read about RAID throughout the years and understand it theoretically as a way to help e.g. server PCs reduce the chance of data loss, but now I am buying a new PC which I want to be as fast as possible and have learned that having two drives can considerably increase the perceived performance of your machine. In the question Recommendations for hard drive performance boost, the author says he is going to RAID-0 two 7200 RPM drives together. What does this mean in practical terms for me with Windows 7 installed, e.g. can I buy two drives, go into the device manager and "raid-0 them together"? I am not a network administrator or a hardware guy, I'm just a developer who is going to have a computer store build me a super fast machine next week. I can read the wikipedia page on RAID but it is just way too many trees and not enough forest to help me build a faster PC: RAID-0: "Striped set without parity" or "Striping". Provides improved performance and additional storage but no redundancy or fault tolerance. Because there is no redundancy, this level is not actually a Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks, i.e. not true RAID. However, because of the similarities to RAID (especially the need for a controller to distribute data across multiple disks), simple strip sets are normally referred to as RAID 0. Any disk failure destroys the array, which has greater consequences with more disks in the array (at a minimum, catastrophic data loss is twice as severe compared to single drives without RAID). A single disk failure destroys the entire array because when data is written to a RAID 0 drive, the data is broken into fragments. The number of fragments is dictated by the number of disks in the array. The fragments are written to their respective disks simultaneously on the same sector. This allows smaller sections of the entire chunk of data to be read off the drive in parallel, increasing bandwidth. RAID 0 does not implement error checking so any error is unrecoverable. More disks in the array means higher bandwidth, but greater risk of data loss. So in plain English, how can "RAID-0" help me build a faster Windows-7 PC that I am going to order next week?

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  • Critique My Backup and Storage Plan

    - by MetaHyperBolic
    My current storage (RAID-1 off of a hardware RAID card) and backup (a spare drive) solutions for my home network are inadequate. I have too much data scattered on various one-off drives. It is time to evolve. Backups seem simple enough, at least: lots of big drives. However, I am bewildered by the number of choices for small home storage. The Drobo S looks appealing. So does the ReadyNAS. I am not looking for bunches of shiny features, I'm mostly interested in reliability. I am not interested in building Yet Another PC to create a file server or doing something in the cloud, or whatever. I'm stupid, so I am keeping it simple. Requirements for Main Volume: Starting working space roughly 2TB, with options for growth up to 5TB RAID or something RAID-like with at least one parity drive eSATA II for speed during backups Ability to shut down gracefully when alerted of low power by a UPS Optional but Desirable: Will take 2TB drives now with options for the larger 3TB drives coming in 2010-2011 Optional but Desirable: : RAID-6 or something similar, with two parity drives Optional but Desirable: : Hot spare Ethernet connection not required, as the volume will be shared via the same machines which runs my home print server Backups: Backup performed via ROBOCOPY in mirror mode to an external hard drive via a eSATA II connection. Start with rotating between two external 2TB hard drives, will go up to six external 2TB drives. Start with a weekly backup, move to a bi-weekly backup as more drives are added. Move to 3TB drives as the size of my main volume increases. Backup drives will be stored on an off-site location. Hard drives: I plan on buying all of the same model, but different batches from different vendors. I found a "burn-in" utility with which I can pound away on the drives for a couple of weeks before adding them to the backup pool or the main volume. I estimate that I am looking at roughly $1,500 to start, once I start throwing in two TB drives for backup and four for storage. So, are there any obvious flaws in my plan? What have I overlooked? Any suggestions for the storage device for my main volume that fits my requirements? Or do I just keep it simple, 2 drives in RAID-1, then perform due diligence with my backups, accepting that I will have to buy a whole new unit when my data grows past 2TB?

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  • Get 5.1 surround sound from computer through a VCR config?

    - by Wedding Nails
    I'm posting to see if my idea of this setup is right and can be done. I currently have the following "equipment": a JVC VCR -quite old-, which has built in surround sound (aka it has several speaker outputs, which I believe is 5.1 and are connected to several speakers that are in every corner of the room), a computer with SPDIF optical output and a new flat screen TV (with built in HDMI). I want the computer to take advantage of the VCR's surround system (all the speakers in the room) in order to play mainly music and video always with all the speakers (5.1) and with the maximum sound quality. Currently, the computer plays sound only through the front speaker (I connect one output to the on board pc audio input) and the quality is really bad. As a side note, the computer video runs with S-video (old school), and the picture quality as you would imagine, is really bad with the new big LCD screen. My main goals are: to upgrade the picture with a new video card which would support HDMI (my tv has HDMI). to buy a SPDIF optical cable, connect one end to the VCR SPDIF input and the other end to the PC output This is theoretically what I've researched so far, and I came out with several questions: in this case, with the SPDIF cable connected, and all the configurations done in windows allowing the 5.1, will I get every content I play "converted" or played through all of my speakers? (I read this forum post). I already know that in order for this setup to play from all the speakers, the content/audio source has to be 5.1. but my question is, if there is a way to play from all of the speakers no matter what type of content I'm playing (that's why I said conversion there) I already know that HDMI cables carry digital sound. Is there a way I can only use said HDMI cord to the tv, and get sound through the VCR? (I'm not too sure about this, I would have to disable the TVs speakers and use the VCR surround as default, but I have no clue wether this can be done or not). Update: The ultimate question is, do I really have to rely on "sound virtualization" technology to get sound from all the speakers, no matter what content I play? (do I require a newer sound card, like a creative soundblaster with said technology?) Thanks!

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  • WinXP - Having trouble sharing internet with 3G USB modem via ICS

    - by Carlos Nunez
    all! I've been banging my head against a wall with this issue for a few days now and am hoping someone can help out. I recently signed up for T-Mobile's webConnect 3G/4G service to replace the faltering (and slow) DSL connection in my apartment. The goal was to put the SIM in one of my old phones and use its built-in WLAN tethering feature to share Internet out to rest of my computers. I quickly found out that webConnect-provisioned SIMs do not work with regular smartphones, so I was forced to either buy a 4G-compatible router or tether one of my old laptops to my wireless router and share out that way. I chose the latter, and it's sharpening my inner masochistic self by the day. Here's the setup: GSM USB modem (via hub), ICS host - 10/100 Mbps Ethernet NIC, ICS "guest" - WAN port of my SMC WGBR14N wireless router in bridged mode (i.e. wireless access point). Ideally, this would make my laptop the DHCP server and internet gateway with the WAP giving everyone wireless coverage. I can browse internet on the host laptop fine. However, when clients try to connect, they get a DHCP-assigned IP from the laptop and are able to use the Internet for a few minutes before completely dying. After that happens, they are able to re-associate with the WAP and get IP addresses, but are unable to use Internet or resolve IP addresses until the laptop and router are restarted. If they do get access, it's very, very slow. After running Wireshark on the host machine, it turns out that this is because every TCP connection keeps getting RST. DNS seems to work. I would normally think the firewall is the culprit here, but when it drops packets, it drops them completely. The fact that TCP connections are being ACK'ed by the destination rules that out. Of course, none of the event Log isn't saying anything about what's going on. I also tried disabling power management on the NIC, since that's caused problems in the past; that didn't help either. I finally disabled receive-side scaling as per a Microsoft KB (that applied to Windows Server 2003, SP2) to no avail. I'm thinking of trying it with a different NIC (will be tough; don't have a spare Ethernet NIC around for the laptop), but I'm getting the impression that this simply doesn't work. Can anyone please advise? I apologise for the length of this post; all contributions are much appreciated! -Carlos.

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  • Easiest way to replace preinstalled Windows 8 with new hard drive with Windows 7

    - by Andrew
    There are all kinds of questions and answers relevant moving Windows 8 to a new hard drive. I'm not seeing anything quite applicable to my situation. I have a new, unopened, unbooted notebook with pre-installed Windows 8. I will be replacing the hard drive before ever booting, unless that is not possible for some reason. I want to "downgrade" to Windows 7 Pro, and I want a clean installation. To do so legitimately, I apparently either need to: Upgrade Windows 8 to Windows 8 Pro using Windows 8 Pro Pack, then downgrade; or Just install a newly-licensed copy of Windows 7 Pro. (Let me know if I've missed an option.) Installation media is likely not a problem, though if I need something vendor-specific that I cannot otherwise download, that could present an issue (Asus notebook, if that matters). If I could, I would just buy the Pro Pack upgrade, swap the hard drive (without ever booting), then install Windows 7 Pro directly on the new hard drive, using the Pro Pack key for activation. Will this work? Are there any activation issues? Edited to clarify, as some comments and answers indicate confusion: Here is, ideally, what I want to do: Before ever powering on the notebook, remove the current hard drive. Replace this hard drive with a new, blank hard drive. Install a clean copy of Windows 7 Pro on this new, blank hard drive. Unless I have no choice to accomplish the end result (a clean install of Win7 Pro on the newly-installed, previously-blank hard drive), I am not wanting to: Install Windows 7 "over" the current Windows 8 install (after upgrading to Win8 Pro). That would involve using the currenly-installed hard drive. I want to use a new, different hard drive. Copy the Win8 install to the new hard drive, then install Windows 7 "over" that installation. Install Windows 7 "over" the current Windows 8 install (after upgrading to Win8 Pro), then copy the installation to the new hard drive. If I have to use one of those three options, I will, but only if there is no other choice. Please note that this question is not about licensing: I will purchase the necessary license(s) to accomplish this procedure legally (apparently either Win8 Pro Pack or Win7 Pro -- the former currently appears less expensive).

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  • Are FC and SAS DAS devices standard enough?

    - by user222182
    Before I ask my questions, here is some background info that may or may not be useful: For the first time I find myself needing a DAS solution. My priority is data through-put in a single direction. I can write large blocks, and I don't need to read at the same time. The server (the data producing device) is not really a typical server, its a very powerful single board computer. As such I have limited options when it comes to the add-in cards I can install since it must use the fairly uncommon interface, XMC. Currently I believe I am limited PCIex8 gen 1 which means that the likely bottle neck for me will be this 16gbps connection. XMC Boards I have found so far offer the following connections: a) Dual 10GBE ethernet controller, total throughput 20gbps b) Dual Quad SAS 2.0 Connectors (SFF-8XXX) HBA (no raid), total throughput 48 gbps c) Dual FC 8gb HBA (no raid), total throughput 16gbps My questions for you guys are: 1) Are SAS and/or FC, and by extension their HBAs, standard enough that I could purchase a Dell or Aberdeen storage server with a raid controller that has external SAS or FC ports and expect that I can connect it to my SAS or FC HBA, be presented with a single volume (if I so configured the storage server), all without having to check for HBA compatibility? 2) On a device like a Dell PowerVault (either DAS or NAS) is there an OS on it to concern myself with, or is it meant to be remotely managed? Is there a local interface in case I cant remotely manage it (i.e. if my single board computer uses an OS not supported by Dell OpenManage). Would this be true of nearly any device which calls itself a DAS? 3) If I purchase some sort of Supermicro storage chassis, installed a raid controller with external connections, is there a nice lightweight OS I can run just for management of the controller? Would I even need an OS since the raid card would be configured pre-boot anyway? 4) It is much easier to buy XMC based 10gigabit ethernet cards (generally dual port). In what ways would I be getting into trouble by using iSCSI as a DAS are direct cabling with SFP+ cables? Thanks in advance

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  • Brand new Mac Pro tower fan suddenly runs full-tilt

    - by Caffeine Coma
    My Quad-Core Mac Pro tower is two days old. Initially, I was impressed with how quiet it was compared to my older Macbook Pro. Then on day two, for some reason it started running very loudly. It's not just a "little" loud- my wife walked into the room and asked what the noise was. At first I thought this was just because I was hitting the CPU a bit (importing my iPhone library into iLife '09, and running Eclipse). But now that that's done, Activity Monitor shows a virtually idle CPU; there's nothing running that ought to be causing this, as far as I can tell. I tried powering it off & letting it cool down for a few minutes to no avail; about 10 seconds after powering up, the box gets loud again. I took a look at it with the side cover off, and it seems to be the fan near the top middle, between the power supply and the disk drive. It can't be a dust issue, as the machine is only 2 days old (and I peeked inside anyway just to be sure- clean). I did do a software update over the past 24 hours or so, but I can't say that it occurred immediately after that. I also did a migration of my old apps and data from my MBPro, for what it's worth. Why is it suddenly so loud? How can I monitor the fan speed and various system temperatures? Here's a link to my temps and fan speeds. UPDATE 1: Took it to the Apple Store. They took it in the back (where it's presumably quieter) and ran a fan diagnostic; no problems were found. The guy also told me that it was "a little loud", but normal. I don't buy it. It was virtually silent the first 24 hours I was using it. They would not replace/service it in the store (grrr... that's why I went there, as directed by Apple Care) but said I could get a replacement from the online store, as it was just purchased. I think I will try that. UPDATE 2: Apple is letting me send it back for a replacement. Glad to see so many responses to this question mentioning that the MacPros are usually silent; it's not all just in my head. :-)

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  • T60 Screen/LCD gets black after some minutes with a highpitched sound rising and fading

    - by Edward De Leau
    Just now my T60 screen got "black" (so no display). On my second monitor: no problems so the vga output works. symptom: Screen blanks / no display but works on second monitor steps to reproduce: - boot - wait (it does not matter what you do you do not have to login or anything) - (now the monitor of the laptop slowly begins to make a ssssssssHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHWOEOEssssssss noice of about 10 seconds) - right after the sounds ends the monitor gets black times seem to be the same each time. software: installed no new software before/after, running zone alarm and antivirus. other: it does not feel hot in any place, there dont seem to be running processes with strange behaviour. warranty: out of warranty what was i doing: typing text on a website and doing some php coding in a text editor. Anyone any idea what I can do here other than buy a new laptop? / does it sound familiar to known cases? update: * exactly the same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-Screen-Blackout/m-p/288772 and the second poster (garyj) here: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/Black-Screen-on-T60/m-p/235053#M48627 and here: "i have that same problem. i replaced the CCRL on mine and it works fine when the screen is not screwed in. once the frame of the LCD screen (metal portion) touches the metal on the laptop which holds the screen the screen goes black. If the metal is touching the screen when you boot up it boots up with it being very dimmly lit. " from http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-screen-problems/m-p/205047#M44995 (it seems replacing the lcd is no use, he tried it 3 times). same problem: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T61-and-prior-T-series-ThinkPad/T60-black-screen/m-p/80604#M25914 Hmmm... not handy 3 or 4 months ago I ordered and installed a new fan. Now the LCD. Which does not seem the core isse but some electric issue so it seems replacing the LCD is not the thing todo here. I have the following question: If it is not the LCD that needs to be replaced (see other threads) which parts can I order to fix this? Has anyone got any information which could lead me to identify the issue? I have read replacing the "inverter" AND the "backlightning" would that make sense?

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  • Planning trunk capacity for multiple GbE switches

    - by wuckachucka
    Without measuring throughput (it's at the top of the list; this is just theoretical), I want to know the most standard method for trunking VLANs on multiple Gigabit (GbE) switches to a core Layer 3 GbE switch. Say you have three VLANs: VLAN10 (10.0.0.0/24) Servers: your typical Windows DC/file server, Exchange, and an Accounting/SQL server. VLAN20: (10.0.1.0/24) Sales: needs access to everything on VLAN10; doesn't need access to VLAN30 and vice-versa. VLAN20: (10.0.1.0/24) Support: needs access to everything on VLAN10; doesn't need access to VLAN20 and vice-versa. Here's how I think this should work in my head: Switch #1: Ports 2-20 are assigned to VLAN20; all the Sales workstations and printers are connected here. Optional 10GbE combo port #1 is trunked to L3 switch's 10 GbE combo port #1. Switch #2: Ports 2-20 are assigned to VLAN30; all the Support workstations and printers are connected here. Optional 10GbE combo port #1 is trunked to L3 switch's 10 GbE combo port #2. Core L3 switch: Ports 2-10 are assigned to VLAN10; all three servers are connected here. With a standard 10/100 x 24 switch, it'll usually come with one or two 1 GbE uplink ports; carrying over this logic to a 10/100/1000 x 24, the "optional" 10 GbE combo ports that most higher-end switches can get shouldn't really be an option. Keep in mind I haven't tested anything yet, I'm primarily moving in this direction for growth (don't want to buy 10/100 switches and have to replace those within a couple of years) and security (being able to control access between VLANs with L3 routing/packet filtering ACLs). Does this sound right? Do I really need the 10 GbE ports? It seems very non-standard and expensive, but it "feels" right when you think about 40 or 50 workstations trunking up to the L3 switch over 1 GbE standard ports. If say 20 workstations want to download a 10 GB image from the servers concurrently, wouldn't the trunk be the bottleneck? At least if the trunk was 10 GbE, you'd have 10x1GbE nodes being able to reach their theoretical max. What about switch stacking? Some of the D-Links I've been looking at have HDMI interfaces for stacking. As far as I know, stacking two switches creates one logical switch, but is this just for management I/O or does the switches use the (assuming it's HDMI 1.3) 10.2 Gbps for carrying data back and forth?

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  • Automatic layout of manual network mapping

    - by Paul
    So I have a small business network mainly consisting of two routed layer-2 domains with a total of ca. 100 devices spread over ca. 2000m² production and office spaces. Typical problems to solve using the graph would be: Over what (cable) path is a PC connected to the server? Where to expect devices connected to a switch port? I want to generate a graph of the physical network topology: Nodes are endpoint devices, switch ports, wall outlets, patch panel ports etc. Edges are cable connections. Ideally, grouping edges (or segments) that pass through the same bundle could be grouped. Also I would like to augment the graph data with automatically gathered data (monitoring state, MAC address, Switch port <- MAC entries to build up parts of the map). At the moment I use graphviz for this inside a Confluence wiki like that: layout = "neato" overlap = scale subgraph { rankdir = "TB" subgraph cluster_r1pf1 { r1pf1 [label="{ Rack 1 PF 1 | { <p1>P1 | <p2>P2 | <p3>P3} }", shape=record] } subgraph cluster_switch1 { switch1 [label="{ Rack 1 Switch 1 | { <p1> P1 | <p1> P1 | <p3> P3} }", shape=record] } r1pf1:p1 -> switch1:p1 (obviously there are dozens of entries omitted here) Problem is: I have a hard time to influence graphviz to generate a bearable layout. Edges overlap so bad that you can't read the diagram anymore. The question is: What other tools (be it interactive like Visio, Omnigraffle or I/O-oriented like graphviz) exist that would allow an easily versionable (as in: Operates on a text file) documentation that is both machine and human readable and editable? Why not OmniGraffle or Visio? Well we don't have Macs and Visio is not available at the moment. To buy it I would need good arguments. Automation would be one of that. But last time I looked, versioning Visio files or even thinking about automatic handling was a nightmare. Related: Network Mapping Tools basically asks the same with a focus on generating the complete graph automatically (but without the need to document cabling connections) Recommendations for automatic computer inventory brings up links of "all-in-one" solutions

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  • Building an SSL server farm

    - by dan
    I'm interested in building the the architecture in the article referenced below. I currently have a modestly-priced layer-4 load balancer and my application servers are the SSL endpoints. I want to put an SSL server farm in between my load balancer and my app servers. Then I will put another inexpensive load balancer between the SSL farm and my app servers, to do layer-7 routing. My web application has a fairly high amount of consumer traffic, that 6 servers can handle at about 50% capacity. Additionally, I have infrastructure traffic that is several orders of magnitude heavier than my consumer traffic. This is data coming in from all over the world that must integrate with my web application in real time. In total I have 18 app servers to handle all the traffic, plus 6 database servers. I will be adding 6 more app servers over the next 2 weeks and another 6 the 2 weeks after that. Conservatively, I estimate I will need to scale to 120 servers by the end of the year. My motivation right now is to separate the consumer traffic from the infrastructure traffic. The consumer traffic is higher priority than the infrastructure traffic and I cannot allow a stampede on the infrastructure side to take down my consumer-facing servers. Having a website that is always up is the top priority. However if there is a failure in one of the consumer app servers, I want to route that traffic to the servers designated for infrastructure traffic. The complication is that all the traffic is addressed using the same hostname and is nearly 100% https. The only way in my case to distinguish infrastructure from consumer traffic is by URL (poor architecture I inherited), so I need a layer 7 load balancer to be able to route. However for that to work I need either a fancy hardware-based SSL terminator or an SSL server farm as described above. Because my user base is rapidly scaling, I worry that if I go down the hardware path it will become very expensive very fast, especially since I will need 4 of everything for high availability (2 identical setups in 2 facilities). Meanwhile, the above diagram seems very flexible and more horizontally scalable. Has anyone built this before? Are there pre-built configurations? What considerations should I make and what software should I use (I've heard of people using apache with mod-ssl, nginx, and stunnel)? Also, when does it make sense to buy an expensive load balancer vs building an SSL server farm? http://1wt.eu/articles/2006_lb/index_05.html

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  • Is it possible to "stealth" dual boot a machine?

    - by BrianH
    I have a loaner laptop that has MS Windows with locked down permissions. It works okay for what I need to do, but I started wondering if there was a way to install a separate Windows OS on a separate hard drive to do what I want to do on it. Virtual I wish I could use VirtualBox or VMWare, but that is not an option (I even tried VBox portable). External Drive My next trial was see if it was possible to install Windows on an external drive, and then plug that drive in and boot from it whenever I wanted my own OS. After a few Google searches, I see that is not really a possibility. Swap Primary Drive Another option, would be to get a second internal hard drive, take the existing HD out, and install a new Windows OS on the secondary HD. This would mean swapping the internal hard drive each time I want to switch OSs - doable, but not very convenient. Dual Boot The laptop has an expansion slot where a second hard drive can be plugged in quickly. I thought about Dual booting, but I don't want to mess with the MBR on the primary hard drive. When I have to give the laptop back, I don't want a dual-boot screen to popup. Summary Is there a way to have 2 hard-drives on a machine, each with it's own OS, and maybe use BIOS settings to have only 1 hard drive active at a time? That way both hard drives could be physically connected, but only one would actually be active at a time. I basically want a second OS that does not (can not) affect the existing OS in any way, and can be removed at any time without affecting the existing OS. The secondary OS does not need any of the files on the main hard drive - it's basically like having 2 separate computers using the same hard ware... Is this possible, or would it be easier just to go out and buy a different laptop? Thanks in advance! EDIT I just discovered that my BIOS allows me to pick (at startup) which hard drive I want to boot from. I poked around in the BIOS and there is not a place to disable certain devices, like the primary hard drive. My only concern about plugging in a second hard drive and installing Windows to the second hard drive is that it will mess with the primary hard drive, or add a bootloader screen to pick which windows install to use. My thought would be to physically unplug the primary, plug in the secondary and install windows to the secondary. After the install is working properly, I can plug the primary back in and use the BIOS feature to determine which drive to boot to. Is there any way after I have 2 separate installs on 2 separate hard drives that one of the installs could mess with the MBR on the other drive?

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  • networked storage for a research group, 10-100 TB

    - by Marc
    this is related to this post: http://serverfault.com/questions/80854/scalable-24-tb-nas-for-research-department but perhaps a little more general. Background: We're a research lab of around 10 people who do a lot of experiments that involve taking pictures at one of several lab setups and then analyzing it an one of several lab computers. Each experiment may produce 2 or 3 GB of data, and we are generating data at the rate of about 10 TB/year. Right now, we are storing the data on a 6-bay netgear readynas pro, but even with 2 TB drive, this only gives us 10 TB of storage. Also, right now we are not backing up at all. Our short term backup plan is to get a second readynas, put it in a different building and mirror the one drive onto the other. Obviously, this is somewhat non-ideal. Our options: 1) We can pay our university $400/ TB /year for "backed up" online storage. We trust them more than we trust us, but not a whole lot. 2) We can continue to buy small NASs and mirror them between offices. One limit, although stupid, is that we don't have an unlimited number of ethernet jacks. 3) We can try to implement our own data storage solution, which is why I'm asking you guys. One thing to consider is that we're a very transient population and none of us are network administration experts. I will probably be here only another year or so, and graduate students, who are here the longest, have a 5-6 year time scale. So nothing can require expert oversight. Our data transfer rates are low - most of the data will just sit on the server waiting for someone to look at it once or twice - so we don't need a really high speed system. Given these contraints, can someone recommend a fairly low-cost, scalable, more or less turn key shared data storage system with backup in a separate physical location. Does such a thing exist or should we just pay the university to take care of it for us? As a second question, our professor just got tenure and is putting together a budget. Here the goal is to ask for as much as you can and hope you get a fraction of it. So the same question, minus the low-cost. Without budget constraints, can you recommend a scalable turn-key backed up storage system. Thanks

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  • Building a Mac/PC Network in a Dorm with Network Restrictions

    - by user70340
    I have been a Windows XP user for the last few years, but I recently bought a 15'' MacBook Pro for research purposes. I would like to set up a no-hassle Mac/PC Network at home so that I can access the internet on both computers and hardware between computers (i.e. a harddrive, or a mouse/keyboard with Synergy). Unfortunately, I live in a dorm with silly network restrictions so a solution is not straightforward. In particular: The dorm has a wired and wireless network, both which provide an internet connection. The wired network provides way faster internet (download speeds of 15 MB/s vs. 2 MB/s on wireless), so I would like to somehow exploit this, at least on my PC for Bittorrent :) Multiple devices can connect to the wireless network, but cannot "see" each other on the network (so software like Synergy would not work). Only 1 MAC address can connect to the wired network at a time. Ideally I would just connect a wireless router to the wired network and then have both the Mac and the PC on that, but the 1 MAC address restriction will not allow the both computer to access the internet simultaneously. I cannot think of a way to bypass this restriction (though I'm not network savvy), so I am planning to create a private no-internet network to allow the devices to see each other and share hardware. Here are some thoughts. I would appreciate any feedback at all! If I build a private wireless network: (first choice) I will use a wireless router that is not connected to the internet. My PC and Mac will be connected to each other wirelessly. I can then connect the PC to the internet via a wired network, but then the Mac will not have internet access as its wireless card is already in use. In this case, could I stream internet access from the PC to the Mac via the wireless network? Or could I buy a USB wireless card for the Mac so that it can connect to both my private network and the dorm network? If I build a private wired network: (second choice) Then both the PC and the Mac will connect to the internet wirelessly, which means I cannot take advantage of the faster download speeds.

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  • Virtual Private Hosting DNS configuration

    - by Ciel
    I did a great deal of reading here before posting this because I didn't want to post a duplicate - but I'm on a bit of a deadline and getting frustrated, so here goes... I very, very, very sincerely apologize if this is long winded or hard to read. Please - please just ask for any information or clarification and I will give it as quickly as I possibly can. This has become very frustrating to me and this is the last place I know to turn. I have no experience with setting up DNS, no experience with nameservers, and no peers to go to for help. So this is kind of my last ditch effort. The task of setting up a private server has, through circumstances beyond my control, fallen into my lap. I own a domain (hereafter referred to as yyy.com) and have always used shared hosting - I buy a package and just point it to the domain nameservers they give me. It's always been simple. yyy.com is registered with network solutions Now I have purchased a Virtual Private Hosting package from GoDaddy.com - and it comes with Plesk 11. I have no earthly idea how to begin to get the right nameserver for yyy.com. I have gone through the instructions and have wound up exceedingly frustrated. I have 2 IP addresses from GoDaddy for the server. This is what I have so far, and I cannot tell if it is working (Since propogation takes so long, it is extremely hard to test for me) IP 1 : XX.XX.XX.XX IP 2 : YY.YY.YY.YY (obviously hidden for privacy) Now after going through the documentation setup and waiting a few days, this is the setup I have - and so far it does not appear to be working. Host Record type Value XX.XX.XX.XX / 24 PTR yyy.com. yyy.com. NS ns1.yyy.com. yyy.com. A XX.XX.XX.XX yyy.com. MX (10) mail.yyy.com. ftp.yyy.com. CNAME yyy.com. ipv4.yyy.com. A XX.XX.XX.XX mail.yyy.com. A XX.XX.XX.XX mssql.yyy.com. A XX.XX.XX.XX ns1.yyy.com. A XX.XX.XX.XX ns2.yyy.com. A YY.YY.YY.YY webmail.yyy.com. A XX.XX.XX.XX www.yyy.com. CNAME yyy.com. yyy.com is pointing to both ns1.yyy.com and ns2.yyy.com Can anyone give me some assistance here? This is a learning experience for me and days of documentation have left me very confused.

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  • Triple (3) Monitors under Linux

    - by widgisoft
    I have a 3 monitor setup (each 1680x1050) via an Nvidia NVS440 (2 GPUs, 2 outputs per GPU totalling 4 outputs); this works fine under Windows XP,7 but caused considerable headaches under Linux (Ubuntu 9.04). I had previously used an XFX 9600GT and the onboard XFX 9300GS to produce the same result but the card was noisy and power hungry and I was hoping that there was some magical switch in the NVS4400 that got rid of this annoying problem - turns out the NVS440 is just 2 cards on one physical PCB :-p (I searched the net high and low for people using this card under Linux but found nothing, if anything the card uses less power and is fan less so I was to benefit from it either way) Anyway, using either set up there were 5 solutions available: Have 3 separate X instances, all un joined Have 3 separate X instances, adjoined by Xinerama Have 2 separate X instances - One using twin-view, both adjoined by Xinerama Have 2 separate X instances - One using twin-view but no Xinerama Have a single Twin-view setup and leave the 3rd screen unplugged :-p The 4rd option, using 2 separate X instances and twinview (but no xinerama) was the best balance in terms of performance and usability but caused 2 really annoying issues You couldn't control (without altering the shortcuts) which screen an application opened onto - and once it was opened you couldn't move it to another screen without opening up terminal and forcing it to move Nvidia's overriding or falsifying of Xinerama breaks and the 2 screens joined by Twin view behave like a single huge screen causing popups to open in the middle of both screens and maximising of windows stretches to the width of the first 2 screens Firefox can only run one instance as the same user so having multiple firefox windows requires at least 2 users The second option "feels" like the right option, but OpenGL is basically disabled and playing any sort of game or even running anything graphical causes a huge performance drop and instability - even trying to run a basic emulator for gba or gens just causes the system to fall over. It works just enough to stare at your desktop and do nothing but as soon as you start doing some work - opening windows, dragging things around - running multiple copies of firefox it just really feels slow. The last open, only going dual screen works perfectly and everything performs as required, full GPU acceleration - two logical screen spaces - perfect, just make it work across GPUs like windows! :-p Anyway, I know RandR was supposed to pick up the slack when it would introduced GPU objects of sorts to allow multiple GPUs to be stitched together to create one huge desktop at a much deeper layer than Xinerama. I was wondering if this has now been fixed (I noticed X server 1.7 is out) and whether anyone has got it running successfully? Again, my requirements are: One huge desktop to drag any window across Maximising of windows to each screen (as XP does) Running fullscreen apps on the primary screen and disabling the mouse from moving onto the others or on all 3 stretched Finally as a side note; I am aware of the Matrox triple (and dual) head splitter but even the price they go for on eBay is more than I can afford atm, my argument: I shouldn't have to buy extra hardware to get something to work on Linux when it's something that's existed in the windows world for a long time (can you tell I don't get on with X :-p); If I had the cash I'd have bought the latest version of this box already (the new version finally supports large resolutions as the displays I have 1680x1050 each).

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  • Anti-virus protection question?

    - by DaBaer
    About 4 years ago, I found Kaspersky and have been using the most current version since. Most people try and argue the use of AVG or Avast to me, and there are some very solid reasons I do not go that route. Over the years, I have found Kasp to become bulkier and bulkier, and have had issues setting it up for friends/family/clients. I am just curios on possible recommendations from other users, with my criteria in mind: What I like about Kasp in the past: The license sold in stores in a 3 pack, is considered a commercial license, and emails from Kasp in response to my questions, make it clear that I can do with the 3 licenses that I want, providing I do not use more than 3 installs per Key. So, allowed me to buy 3, 5, and 7 packs, and resell to users at a cheaper cost than what they would pay if they bought their own license. The ability to easily obtain a currently updated .exe for installation on multiple peoples machines. Power of the scan. Kasp has been a good solution for me (even when using a trial license) on cleaning up machines that were badly infected (in which AVG and AVAST were unable to.) Speed of install/update. After a cleanup of malwarebytes, spybot, mcafee stinger, ccleaner, and combofix, I used to be able to get Kasp Int Security installed and updated in around 5 minutes. The issues that I have with the free AV, is strength of protection. In my opinion for someone who is a 'power use' these are good alternatives, because such a user should be trained or knowledgeable enough to be careful and not get themselves in trouble. Most of the users I assist, are too PC ignorant to know any better, and go hogwild on the web. It has been my experience that the number of people coming back to me with spyware/malware/virus issues since I have converted from AVG to Kasp has been cut down to around 20% of what it used to be 4 or 5 years ago. In a perfect world, I could install and use Kasp Internet Security 2008, and be very happy. But this is not the case anymore. So after this long description of what I used, and have used, does anyone have any good recommendations on AV that isn't going to cost me too much per install?

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  • iTunes and Hulu Playback Choppy and Slow?

    - by Bart Silverstrim
    Specs: Windows XP, latest updates 1.7 ghz Pentium 4 1 gig ram DirectX 9.0c NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200 with 256 meg RAM OpenGL 2.1 The story: Okay, I had an older system laying around that I figured I would try turning into a mini-media system to connect to our TV. I put together a lot of older parts, got it into working order, etc. and hooked it up and voila'...slower, but usable system that displayed to the TV. It could run some things decently. I put in iTunes, it played video okay. Not great, but okay. Played Hulu and since we have a 1Mb download rate, the minimum for their site, there were some choppy moments when watching their shows, but I found that (sadly) changing resolution to 800x600 seemed to help with the issue when running full screen. I downloaded the application called Boxee and installed it. It wouldn't run; apparently the video card in the system supported OpenGL 1.2, and needed at least 1.4. I bought a cheap card, the 5200, with four times the memory in it and support for OpenGL 2.1. Installed, everything seemed fine. iTunes seemed to run fine, the video driver (PNY video card) came with OpenGL 2.1, and Boxee finally ran. I then upgraded to the latest drivers for the video card and ran the DirectX updater from MS. After that, the OpenGL Extension Viewer wouldn't run. It just stayed as an icon in the task bar. Also, any and all videos in iTunes stuttered and went out of sync horribly. Unwatchable. I tried watching Hulu video in Boxee, and it displayed video like it was a series of stills in a very bad powerpoint. Playing straightforward audio-only came through fine, no stutters no hiccups. I tried system restore to roll back updates to pre-directX updates (I thought that seemed to be the time that triggered the weird behavior), no joy. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the video drivers. I installed updated audio drivers (ensoniq audiopci), nothing helped. I finally wiped the drive last night and tried reinstalling everything and restoring my iTunes content via an import from a backup. Fresh install, no updater on the video card or directx. the problem was still there although I haven't tested Hulu, the iTunes player is still stuttering like crazy if I play video, fine if I play audio. I know the processor isn't high in heft, but with one gig of RAM and the fact that it seemed to do okay before I thought that the problem must be software related. Has anyone else run into this sort of issue and have a solution other than "buy a new computer"? What specs seem to work with video at the low end for you? Right now the system is of little use other than keeping my music library and iTunes apps synced with my iPod.

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  • Be your own cloud [closed]

    - by Jedi
    I have reasonably many electronic gadgets that can go LAN or WI-FI. But how do you share and/or syncronize all your files among them? Well, between my laptops and my desktop I use Dropbox. A nice way to share files among computers. But what if your HDD on your laptop is not large enough to carry music, pictures and films. Normally you would buy an extern USB HDD and store them there, but then you cannot reach the files from other computers which are not connected to the USB device. Many would say I should use a solution like a cloud with a disc station or something like that. But my needs are follows: A mass storage which can be reached among devices (laptops, desktops, iPhone, Android phone, XBox or Playstation). Has low power requirements and is silent. Can be reached inside home and it would be nice if it could be reached outside home as well. Cheap I have looked around and I have found an wireless router which can share a USB device: D-Link Wireless N HD Media Router. I thought it would be an interesting solution for a simple local cloud solution. D-Link uses a little program called SharePort Plus which mount the USB device to your computer. Unfortunately is the transfer rate to the USB storage device rather disappointing. The transfer rate was 5.8 Mbps even though the distance between the laptop and the router was 2 meter. The same is happening when I use cable from the computer to the router. Another thing is that SharePort Plus only allows one computer be connected to the device at a time. The last thing was something I could live with. I have search on the Internet for other solutions and found this video from Synology. I'm not sure if their solution is the right one. I think a disc station connected to my home LAN could the right solution. What have you done in your home to store and share files among your computers and game consoles?

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  • Cannot access boot menu with compaq 8510p

    - by pinouchon
    I have a problem with my HP compaq 8510p laptop: when I start it, the fan starts and the power light is on, but the screen displays nothing. When I insert a bootable hard drive, it activates the hard drive light (meaning that the CD is recognized) but it stops after a few seconds. Same thing with any hard drive: the drive is recognized but does not boot. What I've tried so far: Changing the hard drive or booting with no hard drive (same problem) Plugging anoher display via VGA : no display on the other screen Inserting a windows-7 CD (same problem) Booting only on battery, with battery and power cable, only with power cable (same problem) So it looks like something is preventing the laptop from booting and displaying the boot menu. Do you have experienced something similar with a laptop ? What could be wrong ? The laptop is out of warranty. The system used to be windows-7 x64. Edit: I went to the help desk of my university. A guy took a look (he also tried to plug an external screen) and said that the computer is dead: on the HP laptops eventually the GPU card dies and so does the motherboard because they are linked. He saw this many times, and even if I can fix the problem, the laptop would crash again after a while. Do you have similar experience with HP laptops ? (mine is 4 years old) Edit 2: Believe it or not, my laptop is magically working again. I have no clue about what is going on. Now it is like starting and old car: when you turn it on you secretly hope it will actually start... With that said, I expect my laptop to break again in the near future (its an HP after all) and I will accept an answer or add my own accordingly. Edit 3: As expected, the laptop is down again. This time, sometimes when I power it up, it shuts down automatically after 3 seconds, sometimes not at all. In addition, when it does not shut down on its own, the power button does not work : the only way to shut it down is by unplugging the battery. As before, the screen is black, and only the power and battery lights are on. (the other ones: hard drive and wifi are off). I have tried to plug in another power plug, removing the battery and removing the hard drive without success. I might buy another laptop. I've brought the laptop to a repair shop. The problem is indeed that the graphic card is down. It will be replaced by a new one.

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  • If Nvidia Shield can stream a game via wifi, why can I not do the same via ethernet to any other PC?

    - by Enigma
    I think it absurd that a wireless game streaming solution is the *first to hit the market when a 1000mbps+ Ethernet connection would accomplish the same feat with roughly 6x the available bandwidth. I can only assume that there must be some reason behind this or a limitation preventing this, but what? 150mbps wifi is in no way superior to a 1000mbps LAN connection aside from well wireless mobility. Not only that but I have a secondary laptop and desktop which should by hardware comparison completely outperform anything the Tegra in the Nvidia Shield can do. Is this all just a marketing scheme to force people to buy the shield for the streaming benefit? Chief among these is that NVIDIA’s Shield handheld game console will be getting a microconsole-like mode, dubbed “Shield Console Mode”, that will allow the handheld to be converted into a more traditional TV-connected console. In console mode Shield can be controlled with a Bluetooth controller, and in accordance with the higher resolution of TVs will accept 1080p game streaming from a suitably equipped PC, versus 720p in handheld mode. With that said 1080p streaming will require additional bandwidth, and while 720p can be done over WiFi NVIDIA will be requiring a hardline GigE connection for 1080p streaming (note that Shield doesn’t have Ethernet, so this is presumably being done over USB). Streaming aside, in console mode Shield will also support its traditional local gaming/application functionality. - http://www.anandtech.com/show/7435/nvidia-consolidates-game-streaming-tech-under-gamestream-brand-announces-shield-console-mode ^ This is not acceptable for me for a number of reasons not to mention the ridiculousness of having a little screen+controller unit sitting there while using a secondary controller and screen instead. That kind of redundant absurdity exemplifies how wrong of a solution that is. They need a second product for this solution without the screen or controller for it to make sense... at which point your just buying a little computer that does what most other larger computers do better. All that is required, by my understanding, is the ability to decode H.264 video compression and transmit control/feedback so by any logical comparison, one (Nvidia especially) should have no difficulty in creating an application for PC's (win32/64 environment) that does the exact same thing their android app does. I have 2 video cards capable of streaming (encoding) H.264 so by right they must be capable of decoding it I would think. I haven't found anything stating plans to allow non-shield owners to do this. Can a third party create this software or does it hinge on some limitation that only Nvidia can overcome? (*) - perhaps this isn't the first but afaik it is the first complete package.

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  • Mouse Error Code 24. Windows 7

    - by Cj.
    I've had the same mouse for a while, and it's been working fine until one day, it started giving me a message about a device not working properly. I tried updating the drivers, and re-installing, I even deleted old drivers in case my computer should be a little confused. It never made a difference, and my mouse seemed to be working just fine despite getting the permanent error in my device manager, I looked it up several times online, but I never found anything I could actually use, when I go to official websites, I always get the same response "plug in so so into a different place - drivers - install silverlight before you can watch this tutorial, try it on a different machine". so I gave up on that. But now is where I have a real problem, lately, my little strange error evolved into a fullblown Error 24, and my mouse is starting to turn on and off randomely, especially when it is being used, but I do hear it go "badum..dadum" when I'm off doing something else. when I looked up error code 24, I really didn't find much other than it meaning: Code 24 This device is not present, is not working properly, or does not have all its drivers installed. (Code 24) Cause The device is installed incorrectly. The problem could be a hardware failure, or a new driver might be needed. Devices stay in this state if they have been prepared for removal. After you remove the device, this error disappears. But, I have tried uninstalling the device entirely several times, and it'll go right back to its previous state with error 24, and turning on and off randomely. what do I do? I cannot afford taking it to a repair place, I can't really afford a new mouse either, I refuse to buy cheap ones as I am a gamer, in need of more than 3 buttons, and a good grip is important. Could there possibly be some confusion in the registry? I do remember having gotten some early problems after I converted my vista to windows7. But I hardly dare going in there unless I'm 100% certain of what I'm going for, and I can honestly say I am at a loss here. Edit: it is a USB mouse we're talking about here. MX™518 Optical Gaming Mouse (logitech) Edit2: I am seeing no rupture, so it must be on the inside of my mouse, or inside the rubber, protecting the cable, that would be really inconvenient to search for

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  • Choosing parts for a high-spec custom PC - feedback required [closed]

    - by James
    I'm looking to build a high-spec PC costing under ~£800 (bearing in mind I can get the CPU half price). This is my first time doing this so I have plenty of questions! I have been doing lots of research and this is what I have come up with: http://pcpartpicker.com/uk/p/j4lE Usage: I will be using it for Adobe CS6, rendering in 3DS Max, particle simulations in Realflow and for playing games like GTA IV (and V when it comes out), Crysis 1/2, Saints Row The Third, Deus Ex HR, etc. Questions: Can you see any obvious problem areas with the current setup? Will it be sufficient for the above usage? I won't be doing any overclocking initially. Is it worth buying the H60 liquid cooler, or will the fan that comes with the CPU be sufficient? Is water cooling generally quieter? Is the chosen motherboard good for the current components? And is it future-proof? I read that the HDD is often the bottleneck when it comes to gaming. I presume this is true to other high-end applications? If so, is my selection good? I keep changing my mind about the GPU; first the 560, now the 660. Can anyone shed some light on how to choose? I read mixed opinions about matching the GPU to the CPU. Will the 560 or the 660 be sufficient for my required usage? Atm I'm basing my choice on the PassMark benchmarks and how much they cost. The specs on the GeForce website state that the 560 and the 660 both require 450W. Is this a good figure to base the wattage of my PSU on? If so, how do you decide? Do I really need 750W? The latest GTX 690 requires 650W. Is it a good idea to buy a 750W PSU now to future-proof myself?

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