Search Results

Search found 7843 results on 314 pages for 'power over ethernet'.

Page 8/314 | < Previous Page | 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15  | Next Page >

  • Router used as ethernet bridge wont show up

    - by user1255271
    I have a Netgear router in my living room that has the wireless signal. It is connected to a Powerline plug that goes up to my bedroom. That is plugged into another router that is used as an ethernet hub. It's cables go into my PS3 and my server. The second router shows up as a hidden network on my laptop, and I can connect to it. But it is not listed as an attached device on my main router, and my laptop says that it connects straight to the main router, not the second one. How can I connect to this router? Aside from swapping the two? Thanks in advance.

    Read the article

  • Vista Power Management GPO

    - by Matt
    Hi, I've created a loopback GPO that has several settings (both computer and user) including a Custom User Interface (Access 2007 Application) and Power Management (has the computer sleep after being idle for 2 min). I'm also filtering so that this policy does not apply to "Admins" - only to "Users". The problem I'm having is when the "Users" login the Power Management settings don’t work, but they do for "Admins". For testing I'm allowing the "Users" to launch Task Manager and use the Run line, so I'll run Explorer and look at Power Management and it shows the settings from my GPO. So I created a test OU with copies of the aforementioned GPO, but removed the Custom User Interface and found the Power Management settings do work for both the "Users" and "Admins". When I add the Custom UI the Power Management settings break for the "User" but continue to work for "Admins". Do the Power Management options need to have User Interface be "Explorer.exe"? Is this a bug or am I doing this the wrong way? BTW the tablets are using Vista SP2. Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt

    Read the article

  • Why does pulling the power cord then pressing the power button fix a non-booting PC?

    - by sidewaysmilk
    I've been working at this institution for about 6 years. One thing thing that I've always found curious is that sometimes—especially after a power outage—we find a PC that won't boot when the power button is pressed. Usually, the fans will spin up, but it won't POST. Our solution is to pull the power cord, press the power button with the computer unplugged, then plug it in and turn it on. It seems more common with Gateway brand PCs than the Dells or HPs that we have around. Does anybody know what pressing the power button does when the computer is unplugged? I have some vague notion that closing the power button circuit allows some capacitors to discharge or something, but I'd like a firmer answer to offer my users when they ask me what I'm doing. My best guess as to why fans can spin but it can't POST is that the BIOS is in some non-functional state. I don't know how BIOS stores state, but my best guess is that there is some residual garbage in its registers or something, like the stack pointer isn't starting at 0 maybe?

    Read the article

  • Why does just splitting an Ethernet cable not work?

    - by Sin Jeong-hun
    I thought the Ethernet is logically a one-line communication bus (for argument's sake, I am excluding hubs). All machines attached on the bus hears the same signals and the machines themselves try to avoid collisions by randomly backing off. http://computer.howstuffworks.com/ethernet6.htm If so, why would splitting one Ethernet line from my home router into two and connecting two computers not work? Why do I have to add a switch to it? *What the Internet said would not work. [4 port home router] ------[one Ethernet cable]-----[simple splitter]======[two computers] *What the Internet said I should do [4 port home router] ------[one Ethernet cable]-----[switch]======[two computers] Is this because of the signal degradation (reduced electric current)? Thank you for all the answers! The reason why I did not just use the two ports of my home router is... The 4-port gigabit router is in my room, and I had put a computer in another room (also my room, though). Since a wired network is far more reliable and secure, I had bought a long Ethernet cable and and connected the computer to the router. Now I was thinking about adding another computer to that room. I could buy another long Ethernet cable, but then there will be two cables between the rooms. The one line already is a minor annoyance, so I thought if I could share the one line between the two computers in that room. A switch would work, but it requires power and is a little bit pricey. That is why I wondered why it would not work to simply split the physical Ethernet cable. Apparently I do not completely understand how Ethernet and a switch work. I just have some bit of knowledge I heard in my college class.

    Read the article

  • Why just splitting an Ethernet cable does not work?

    - by Sin Jeong-hun
    I thought the Ethernet is logically one-line communication bus (for argument's sake, I am excluding hubs). All machines attached in the bus hears the same signals and the machines themselves try to avoid collisions by randomly backing off. http://computer.howstuffworks.com/ethernet6.htm If so, why splitting one Ethernet line from my home router into two and connecting two computers would not work? Why do I have to add a switch to it? *What the Internet said would not work. [4 port home router] ------[one Ethernet cable]-----[simple splitter]======[two computers] *What the Internet said I should do [4 port home router] ------[one Ethernet cable]-----[switch]======[two computers] Is this because of the signal degradation (reduced electric current)? Thank you for all the answers! The reason why I did not just use the two ports of my home router is... The 4-port gigabit router is in my room and I had put a computer in another room (also my room, though). Since wired network is far more reliable and secure, I had bought a long Ethernet cable and and connected the computer to the router. Now I was thinking about adding another computer to that room. I could buy another long Ethernet cable, but then there will be two cables between the rooms. The one line already is a minor annoyance, so I thought if I could share the one line between the two computers in that room. A switch would work, but it requires power and is a little bit pricey. That is why I wondered why it would not work to simply split the physical Ethernet cable. Apparently I do not completely understand how Ethernet and a switch work. I just have some bit of knowledge I heard in my college class.

    Read the article

  • Preventing Gigabit Loss due to printers [on hold]

    - by Charles
    HOW CAN I MAINTAIN Gigabit Ethernet integrity given this situation: What I have to work with: ** AC-router w/4 port gigabit N-600 router w/4 port gigabit Switch w/8 port gigabit All PCs have gigabit NICs 4-port POE injector at gigabit (all wiring = Cat 6) **Problem = Printer @ 10/100 (built-in) Printer @ 10/100 (built-in) Scanner @ 10/100 (built-in) Printer @ 10/100 (built-in)** What device (not setting up a PC) or configuration would I have to incorporate to get gigabit going given those devices? WILD SHOT: IS THERE SUCH A THING AS A SWITCH THAT CAN ACCOMMODATE THIS? THANK YOU ALL

    Read the article

  • Arduino Ethernet Shield Not Connecting to WebServer

    - by new user
    I have a problem making my Arduino Ethernet shield to communicate with the server, the result on the serial monitor is always: my arduino code is #include <Ethernet.h> //library for ethernet functions #include <SPI.h> #include <Dns.h> #include <Client.h> //library for client functions #include <DallasTemperature.h> //library for temperature sensors // Ethernet settings byte mac[] = {0x09,0xA2,0xDA,0x00,0x01,0x26}; //Replace with your Ethernet shield MAC byte ip[] = { 192,168,0,54}; //The Arduino device IP address byte subnet[] = { 255,255,255,0}; byte gateway[] = { 192,168,0,1}; IPAddress server(192,168,0,53); // IP-adress of server arduino sends data to EthernetClient client; bool connected = false; void setup(void) { Serial.begin(9600); Serial.println("Initializing Ethernet."); delay(1000); Ethernet.begin(mac, ip , gateway , subnet); } void loop(void) { if(!connected) { Serial.println("Not connected"); if (client.connect(server, 80)) { connected = true; int temp =analogRead(A1); Serial.print("Temp is "); Serial.println(temp); Serial.println(); Serial.println("Sending to Server: "); client.print("GET /formSubmit.php?t0="); Serial.print("GET /formSubmit.php?t0="); client.print(temp); Serial.print(temp); client.println(" HTTP/1.1"); Serial.println(" HTTP/1.1"); client.println("Host: http://localhost/PhpProject1/"); Serial.println("Host: http://localhost/PhpProject1/"); client.println("User-Agent: Arduino"); Serial.println("User-Agent: Arduino"); client.println("Accept: text/html"); Serial.println("Accept: text/html"); //client.println("Connection: close"); //Serial.println("Connection: close"); client.println(); Serial.println(); delay(10000); } else{ Serial.println("Cannot connect to Server"); } } else { delay(1000); while (client.connected() && client.available()) { char c = client.read(); Serial.print(c); } Serial.println(); client.stop(); connected = false; } } the server is an Apache server running on a pc, the server ip address in the code is the pc ip address. For testing purposes I work at my homes network, there's no proxy or firewall, and I also turned of the antivirus and firewall on my pc. the result in the serial monitor is always: Not connected Cannot connect to Server Any thoughts??

    Read the article

  • "Modern" Ethernet over coax

    - by Electrons_Ahoy
    So, I've just bought a house. It's reasonably new - built in the early '00s. One of the features that got built in was a cable TV drop in every room. The cabling is gorgeous - there's even a wiring cabinet of sorts in a closet where the cables all tie together to the splitter to the outside line. Of course, my problem is that I only own the one TV. I do, however, own a few computers. What I would love to be able to do is drop a switch in the wiring closet and run 100/1000BASE-T ethernet over the coax in the walls I wouldn't otherwise be using. My fantasy would be if you could get some kind of adapter-plug-thing that would take a coax plug on one side and a cat5/RJ45 plug on the other. Had anyone else done this? Any suggestions? (There are a few other options that suggest themselves - first, I could just use the existing cabling channels and re-run cat5 or 6 through the walls. While tempting, that sounds like more work than I really want to put in, so I'm calling that Plan B. Also, I could just scare up a mess of old 10BASE2 cards and run the house on thinnet, all mid-90s style. While I think I'd get major style points for that, I don't think I can get a 10BASE2 adapter for the new laptop. Also, I have all these super-snazzy gigabit adaptors I'd like to be using. And so forth.)

    Read the article

  • Long Gigabit Ethernet Run

    - by Timothy R. Butler
    I am trying to get an Gig-E network between two buildings that are approximately 260 ft. away. While some TRENDnet switches failed to be able to connect to each other over Cat 6 at that distance, two Netgear 5-port Gig-E switches do so just fine. However, it still fails after I put in place APC PNET1GB ethernet surge protectors at each end before the line connects to the respective switches. So I find myself wondering if I simply need to find a better surge protector that doesn't degrade the signal as much (if so, what kind would you recommend?) or if I should give up on copper and use fiber between the buildings. If I opt to go the latter route, I could really use some pointers. It looks like LC connectors are the most common, but I keep running into some others as well. A media converter on each end seems like the simplest solution, but perhaps a Gig-E switch with an SFP port would make more sense? Given a very limited budget, sticking with my existing copper seems best, but if it is bound to be a headache, a 100 meter fiber cable is something I think I can swing cost wise.

    Read the article

  • How to restore broken Ethernet functionality on Mac G5 running Mac OS 10.4.11 (Tiger)

    - by willc2
    I had a disk error that rendered my Mac unbootable. I repaired it with Tech Tool 4, but now networking does not work. Network Preferences reports that my Ethernet cable is unplugged. I know this is bogus because when I boot from an emergency partition, networking works correctly. Furthermore, wireless networking is also broken, which I tested with a known-good Wi-Fi dongle. Whenever I try to change Network Port Configurations by creating a New or Renaming an existing one, example: I get this message in the console: Error - PortScanner - setDevice, device == nil! Error - PortScanner - setDevice, device == nil! In sets of two as shown. When I try to invoke the Network Diagnostics app, it immediately crashes. My first thought is to reinstall Tiger with the Archive and Install method so I don't have to reinstall all my applications but I have lost my Tiger installer disk. My next thought is to buy Leopard for $107 on Amazon. If there is any way I can just repair my Tiger install I would be happy to save that money, though. This is not my main machine and I am loathe to put more money into it. How can I recover my network functionality? UPDATE: I found my Tiger install disk and tried an Archive and Install. It failed with an unhelpful error message along the lines of "Can't install, try again". I tried again but had the same error. My guess is, some corrupt or missing file in my User folder is preventing migration. I have a backup created with Super Duper that is a bit out of date but will startup the machine (with functional networking). I would love to just copy over the file(s) that got messed up but I don't even know where to look. What is the likely location of the System files that would cause the aforementioned symptoms?

    Read the article

  • Primary/secondary ethernet interfaces in Ubuntu 9.10

    - by Josh
    I have an Ubuntu 9.10 machine with three ethernet interfaces, eth0, eth1 and eth2. eth2 is connected to a private network. eth0 and eth2 are connected to two different LANs. Either one will provide access to the internet. All three networks have DHCP servers. Using Ubuntu's the default settings (And Gnome), when I boot up all the interfaces are active and my system gets three IP addresses. However any attempt to access the internet results in connection timeouts and other weirdness. I suspect that traffic is going out on one NIC (like eth0) and coming back in on another (like eth1). I'm not sure what's going on. The only way I can access the internet at the moment is to bring two of the devices down with ifdown. How can I configure eth0 as my primary interface so all trafic goes out by default on that interface, while keeping the other two active? Also, I want to make sure Avahi broadcasts properly on all three IPs so that the computers on the LAN of eth1 can still connect to myHostname.local...

    Read the article

  • Onboard Ethernet suddenly stopped working to router

    - by AfterschoolHobbist
    Hey guys, yesterday I have a sudden problem of my Ethernet connection to my router. My computer is a Pendium 4 with Window XP SP3 running on it and it was working fine earlier in the day, but yesterday night was the start of the problem. My computer is unable to ping to the router and to any other website and unable to get internet connection. As beside it was connected to a hub, I directly connected it to the router directly and the same problem occurred, being unable to ping to the router (and connecting to it) and still no internet access. My directly connected to the modem and the problem still persisted. For each connection, I connected it to my computer and my laptop and my laptop was able to connect, while my desktop computer was unable. I wondered if it was a OS issue and ran a live Ubuntu CD to see if Ubuntu was able to connect to the internet, but the issue persisted and I was unable to get internet access. I then set my router's lease time to 1 hour and waited. After 1 hour, the lease for my computer was removed and I hoped this worked, but it didn't work, but something strange is acting up. My desktop computer is still unable to ping to the router or connect to the internet, but for some reason, my router and desktop computer is still able to contact each other by providing a lease of an local ip address. The router record of a lease to my desktop computer, and when I do ipconfig, my desktop also recognize that it has been provided a local ip address. I have concluded that this is a hardware issue and the only solution to fix this is to by a network card adapter, but I am wondering if anyone has any solutions that could explain why this happen, why my mac address is 01-23-45-67-89-ab, and is there any way to fix it without buying a new network card? Thanks in advance.

    Read the article

  • Ethernet/8P8C crimp contacts bent

    - by Fire Lancer
    (if anyone knows correct terminology please correct). Ive got a (fairly large) number of existing Ethernet cables that over the years many have got damaged connector clips, so got a crimp tool and some new connectors for them. However out of all 4 attempts I have tried, on crimping 2+ of the little copper contacts that bite into the wires have instead just bent to one side, and so gone between the gaps in in the crimp tool... Unless this really is me doing something wrong (what?) I am inclined to blame the hardware, but is this the crimper or the new connectors I got? I tried to take a picture, as you can just about see looking from the left 3rd, 6th, 7th and 8th pins didn't get pushed in, and so don't form a connector. Unfortunately my camera was barely able to focus on it and then this website converted it to a JPEG... Update: Connectors/Cable/Tools: The wires are stranded (looks about 6 and no evidence of being aluminum/not copper), and the pins(?) have 2 little flat spikes lengthways along the cables (I understand to dig into it, while solid core connectors would have like 2 plates designed to go around the core?). Crimper was http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0013EXTKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (seemed to be highly rated, I already had tools for cutting/stripping). Update2: Picture of crimp "prongs" (?) Update3: Side picture of connector Update4: Comparison with old connector. The top (used) connector is one from a few years back (different tool and connectors), the thing that concerns me that it might not be the tool I need to replace is just how thin the pins are on the new one that maybe a tool could legitimately bend some into a gap rather than pushing them in fully? In fact I can move individual pins to the sides significantly with my fingernail, is that normal?

    Read the article

  • Intel Ethernet Bottlenecking Internet?

    - by Donald Darma
    I'm having trouble with my internet speeds. So I just recent build a pc and everything is fine. I installed the Intel drivers and connected to the internet. It connects but I'm only half the speed I should be getting. My normal speed is 20mbps but speedtest.net is only showing 10. It can't be my ISP (which is TWC if anyone is asking) because my other devices like my laptop and my smartphone are showing 20 down. Heres my system: CPU: i5 4430 HSF: Stock cooler Mobo: Gigabyte Z87MX-D3H GPU: x2 MSI R7950-3GD5/OC BE RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer 8GB dual channel PSU: Silencer High Performance Power Supply 750 Watt 80+ (It's a subdivision of OCZ) HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3TB SSD: Samsung 840 Evo 120 GB Case: Corsair Obsidian 350D Edit: I am using the stock adapter that is on the motherboard. I know for a fact that the cable is good because I used it on my laptop and it ran fine. Its a CAT5E cable. I also ran IPERF and its giving me the same results, 10 mbps.

    Read the article

  • Primary/secondary ethernet interfaces via NetworkManager in Ubuntu 9.10

    - by Josh
    I have an Ubuntu 9.10 machine with three ethernet interfaces, eth0, eth1 and eth2. eth2 is connected to a private network. eth0 and eth2 are connected to two different LANs. Either one will provide access to the internet. All three networks have DHCP servers. Using Ubuntu's the default settings (And Gnome), when I boot up all the interfaces are active and my system gets three IP addresses. However any attempt to access the internet results in connection timeouts and other weirdness. I suspect that traffic is going out on one NIC (like eth0) and coming back in on another (like eth1). I'm not sure what's going on. The only way I can access the internet at the moment is to bring two of the devices down with ifdown. How can I configure eth0 as my primary interface so all trafic goes out by default on that interface, while keeping the other two active? Also, I want to make sure Avahi broadcasts properly on all three IPs so that the computers on the LAN of eth1 can still connect to myHostname.local... EDIT: Here's my routing table: Kernel IP routing table Destination Gateway Genmask Flags MSS Window irtt Iface 172.16.151.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 eth2 172.16.30.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.255.0 U 0 0 0 eth0 10.1.0.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.0.0 U 0 0 0 eth1 169.254.0.0 0.0.0.0 255.255.0.0 U 0 0 0 eth1 0.0.0.0 172.16.30.2 0.0.0.0 UG 0 0 0 eth0 0.0.0.0 10.1.0.1 0.0.0.0 UG 0 0 0 eth1 I want the 172.16.30.2 network to be the primary one and the 10.1.0.0 network to be the secondary one. EDIT2: My nameservers are also incorrect. It seems like Ubuntu is bringing the networks up in order, eth0, then 1, then 2, and the DHCP information from eth1 is overriding eth0, and eth2 is overriding eth1. How can I reverse this so the DHCP information from eth0 is the "master"? EDIT3: This seems to be an issue with Gnome's NetworkManager.

    Read the article

  • How To Delete Built-in Windows 7 Power Plans (and Why You Probably Shouldn’t)

    - by The Geek
    Do you actually use the Windows 7 power management features? If so, have you ever wanted to just delete one of the built-in power plans? Here’s how you can do so, and why you probably should leave it alone. Just in case you’re new to the party, we’re talking about the power plans that you see when you click on the battery/plug icon in the system tray. The problem is that one of the built-in plans always shows up there, even if you only use custom plans. When you go to “More power options” on the menu there, you’ll be taken to a list of them, but you’ll be unable to get rid of any of the built-in ones, even if you have your own. You can actually delete the power plans, but it will probably cause problems, so we highly recommend against it. If you still want to proceed, keep reading. Delete Built-in Power Plans in Windows 7 Open up an Administrator mod command prompt by right-clicking on the command prompt and choosing “Run as Administrator”, then type in the following command, which will show you a whole list of the plans. powercfg list Do you see that really long GUID code in the middle of each listing? That’s what we’re going to need for the next step. To make it easier, we’ll provide the codes here, just in case you don’t know how to copy to the clipboard from the command prompt. Power Scheme GUID: 381b4222-f694-41f0-9685-ff5bb260df2e  (Balanced) Power Scheme GUID: 8c5e7fda-e8bf-4a96-9a85-a6e23a8c635c  (High performance)Power Scheme GUID: a1841308-3541-4fab-bc81-f71556f20b4a  (Power saver) Before you do any deleting, what you’re going to want to do is export the plan to a file using the –export parameter. For some unknown reason, I used the .xml extension when I did this, though the file isn’t in XML format. Moving on… here’s the syntax of the command: powercfg –export balanced.xml 381b4222-f694-41f0-9685-ff5bb260df2e This will export the Balanced plan to the file balanced.xml. And now, we can delete the plan by using the –delete parameter, and the same GUID.  powercfg –delete 381b4222-f694-41f0-9685-ff5bb260df2e If you want to import the plan again, you can use the -import parameter, though it has one weirdness—you have to specify the full path to the file, like this: powercfg –import c:\balanced.xml Using what you’ve learned, you can export each of the plans to a file, and then delete the ones you want to delete. Why Shouldn’t You Do This? Very simple. Stuff will break. On my test machine, for example, I removed all of the built-in plans, and then imported them all back in, but I’m still getting this error anytime I try to access the panel to choose what the power buttons do: There’s a lot more error messages, but I’m not going to waste your time with all of them. So if you want to delete the plans, do so at your own peril. At least you’ve been warned! Similar Articles Productive Geek Tips Learning Windows 7: Manage Power SettingsCreate a Shortcut or Hotkey to Switch Power PlansDisable Power Management on Windows 7 or VistaChange the Windows 7 or Vista Power Buttons to Shut Down/Sleep/HibernateDisable Windows Vista’s Built-in CD/DVD Burning Features TouchFreeze Alternative in AutoHotkey The Icy Undertow Desktop Windows Home Server – Backup to LAN The Clear & Clean Desktop Use This Bookmarklet to Easily Get Albums Use AutoHotkey to Assign a Hotkey to a Specific Window Latest Software Reviews Tinyhacker Random Tips DVDFab 6 Revo Uninstaller Pro Registry Mechanic 9 for Windows PC Tools Internet Security Suite 2010 Gadfly is a cool Twitter/Silverlight app Enable DreamScene in Windows 7 Microsoft’s “How Do I ?” Videos Home Networks – How do they look like & the problems they cause Check Your IMAP Mail Offline In Thunderbird Follow Finder Finds You Twitter Users To Follow

    Read the article

  • High speed network configuration

    - by Peter M
    Sorry if this seems to be a stupid question, I'm not sure how to specify what I want to know when checking google. I will have 2 or 3 devices pumping out data on a 100Base-T port. The combined data rate of all devices is about 15KB/S which exceeds the optimal 100Base-T channel capacity (12KB/S), but well within the realms of a 1000Base-T connection. Each device will be sending a burst of data in the form of an FTP transfer to a common, single host computer in a sequential manner ie: Device A establishes FTP connection and transfers data Device B establishes FTP connection and transfers data Device C establishes FTP connection and transfers data It may be that the A&B, B&C and C&A transfers overlap in the time domain to some extent. There will be minimal traffic going back from the computer to each device (in general what ever is needed to support the FTP transfers), and the network will be dedicated to transferring data between these devices and the host computer. Is it possible to use a switch to combine the multiple incoming 100Base-T streams into a single outgoing 1000Base-T stream? if so what features in a switch should I be looking for? Or would it be better to have 3 physical point-to-point 100Base-T dedicated connections between each device and the host computer? (thus having at least 3 physical Ethernet interfaces on that computer) Note that I can't change the interface on the devices, but I am free to choose the network and host computer configuration. Thanks for you help Peter

    Read the article

  • Computer can't boot

    - by zETO
    I have a 1 year old PC and the last weeks, when I press the ON button the PC doesn't power on ( Like I didn't press the ON button ). I have to plug and unplug a few times the power cord in order to make it work. At the start this happened once in 10 boots. Now it happens much more frequently to the point that when I press the power on button it never even opens if I don't do the cord switch thingy. Very rarely also, the PC shut downs for no reason and no warning, even when idle. The important fact to note here is, the green light on the motherboard is always on, even when the PC doesn't power on. What should I do? Is it a Power Supply failure or a motherboard? My power supply is a high end corsair model, AX850 and my motherboard a high end ASUS.

    Read the article

  • Laptop accessories for mobile warrior (light power adapter & case/bag)

    - by wonsungi
    Lugging my X301 between work and home, I realized my laptop's accessories weigh more than the laptop itself! I'm ordering a 2nd AC power adapter so I don't even have to carry one at all, but I may as well get the lightest one possible. My X301 came with a pretty svelt 65W power adapter, but can anyone suggest a lighter power adapter or confirm the weights I've found below? mass vol dimensions W Model ---- ------- ----------- --- ------------------- 210g 149cm^3 108x46x30mm 65W Coolermaster [NA 65] 244g 189cm^3 140x75x18mm 65W ThermalTake [ADP65W0001] 260g 130cm^3 104x43x29mm 65W Lenovo (came with X301) 326g 198cm^3 145x76x18mm 95W Coolermaster [SNA 95] 330g 180cm^3 150x60x20mm 90W Kensington USB [K38030US] Apple's 60W power adapter seems much smaller/lighter than the PC products listed above, so I think a better PC power adapter could exist. There are much smaller 45W "netbook" adapters, but are these too weak for my X301? I would not mind if it just meant the battery couldn't charge while the laptop was on, but I am afraid there will be worse consequences. Also, I have decided to swap my Logitech Kinetik briefcase for a Tom Bihn Ristretto. Less protection, but much lighter, less bulky, and easier to carry. Any suggestions for better laptop cases/bags?

    Read the article

  • How to power a serial port under linux?

    - by Lex
    I got a serial to ethernet device connected to a Serial (COM) port on a Linux machine (debian etch), I connected it correctly but it did not power up, I suppose I need to power the device port, anyone knows how to power it under linux? Thankyou in advance.

    Read the article

  • Docking station power adapter is not recognized by my Dell notebook

    - by Soner Gönül
    At this morning, my laptop (Dell Latitude e6410) gave me this error. I didn't do anything, I didn't change anything. And I got this docking station just 2 month ago. I made a little research on the internet but I couldn't find read solution for this situation. Now my docking station is not charging to my laptop. I'm using Windows 7. What should I do in this situation ? Your docking station power adapter is not recognized by your Dell notebook. As a result, your power adapter may not provide sufficient power to run the system, your battery will not charge, your system will run slowly. Please insert a 65 watt Dell approved power adapter.

    Read the article

  • Laptop Power down.

    - by BENBUN
    This question relates to my ACER laptop running Windows VISTA. Currently when I close the lid of my laptop the laptop does not power down, however when I open the lid it does. When looking at the power settings it is set to power down when closing the lid. The trigger to this seems to be the lid being opened not being closed. I seem to recall this behaviour changing when I installed Windows Media centre. Any ideas on how I can get the power down to work on the lid closing. thanks

    Read the article

  • Too much power for 1-2 power outlets in my room?

    - by jasondavis
    I live in the USA, I am curious about plugging in too many computer items into 1 to 2 power plugin outlets. Most power outlets have 2 plugins, some have 4 and more though. Many people will plug in a power strib/bar into 1 of these outlets so that they can plugin even more items. So if I have 2 plugins near my computer, would it be bad to plugin... - My PC - 3-4 monitors - Stereo amp for PC sound - Lamp - External drives - other similar items

    Read the article

  • Too much power for 1-2 power outlets in my room?

    - by jasondavis
    I live in the USA, I am curious about plugging in too many computer items into 1 to 2 power plugin outlets. Most power outlets have 2 plugins, some have 4 and more though. Many people will plug in a power strib/bar into 1 of these outlets so that they can plugin even more items. So if I have 2 plugins near my computer, would it be bad to plugin... - My PC - 3-4 monitors - Stereo amp for PC sound - Lamp - External drives - other similar items

    Read the article

< Previous Page | 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15  | Next Page >