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  • No digital audio output with Asus Xonar DG

    - by Lunatik
    I've purchased an Asus Xonar DG as replacement for faulty onboard audio in a Medion 8822 as it has an optical output which is all I really need to feed my HTPC. I uninstalled the previous drivers/devices, switched the PC off, inserted the Asus card, powered up, disabled the onboard audio in the BIOS, then installed the driver that came on the CD (same version as on Asus' website as of today) and everything went perfectly - no errors. I set the audio devices up in Windows and in the Asus utility (SPDIF enabled, 6-ch audio) as I would expect to see them work, but the only thing is I have no digital audio from test tones within Windows/the Asus utility, PCM audio or Dolby Digital from DVD. Analogue audio is fine. I've uninstalled things and reinstalled a couple of times now, as well as trying almost all combinations of analogue/digital outputs but can't get it sorted. Does anyone have any tips on how to get this working? This card has just been released so there isn't much out there to go on. Notes: The light on the toslink port is lit. OS is Vista 32-bit SP2 and all up to date, pretty much a fresh install with almost no 3rd party applications installed This page seems to suggest that a digital output device in Windows is not needed with Xonar cards as it was with the previous Realtek so I have it set to Analog. The only other output device is S/PDIF pass-thru

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  • Format & Fresh Install Mac os x snow leopard in mac mini.

    - by sagar
    Hello Every one. I have purchased dvd of Snow leopard 10.6.2. But actually I purchased mac mini with 10.5.7 leopard I tried to install snow leopard 10.6.2. Everything went perfectly. system was installed successfully. But the problem that I faced is as follows. System was installed but my older data remained as it is. ( means installation didn't format every thing - means installation was done on upgrade basis. ) Now, my system works with very low speed. Previous performance of mac mini was double as compare to current upgrade version. Now - my question are as follows. Does upgrade installation causes the performance in specially osx ? ( means anyone faced this kind of problem ? ) Or 10.6.2 snow leopard is heavy weight system for mac mini ? ( 2Ghz Intel core2duo,1GB RAM - is this configuration OK for snow leopard 10.6.2 ? ) Fresh install works better then upgrade in os x ?

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  • Xp SP3 - Non-Functioning

    - by Josh
    Ok Here is a crazy problem, I have a HP dv6000 Laptop that can no longer hold a charge, so I hooked it up to my TV, bought a wireless mouse and keyboard and configured xp to run with the lid closed, It has medium to heavy usage mainly just streaming from sites like Netfilx, Hulu, ABC, etc. And playing movies I ripped of dvd. It ran fine for a while but recently it has been having some weird problems: Problem one: I used to use firefox but now when run it I can type but as soon as I click something it just shuts down, completely, I can't even close it unless I use taskmanager to do it. So I went and got google chrome which is better but still hit or miss, but never completely shuts down, I just can't click anything or type anything, or sometimes I just can't type anything or vice versa. Also when I open a new tab, and try to move back to my old one, it automatically closes the old tab when I click on it. Problem two: When using the internet I can't use any other application or anything windows (ie. Windows explorer) until I force quit all browsers with taskmanger. The reason I can't run anything is because I can't click on it. Problem three: When I try to play a movie (with vlc) Once it starts playing I can't click on anything, but I can use hotkeys, and once it stops everything is fine again. Well I hope somebody knows whats going on because I have no clue, If you need clarification or more info on something I would be happy to provide it...

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  • Computer Comparison - which is "better"

    - by David Murdoch
    A company I work with recently replaced their old server and gave it to me. Their old server is a Dell PowerEdge 2600. I've been playing with the machine and even installed Windows Server 2008 on it...and it seems to run it pretty well. Here are the specs for the two machines: Dev Machine: AMD Athlon64 3000+ 2.38 GHz (overclocked from 1.8GHz [@ 280x8.5] - it is stable-ish) Memory (RAM): 1x1GB OCZ PC3200 (Dual-Channel) 300GB HD OS: Windows XP Pro (32bit) SuperPi 1M digit test: 40 seconds Dell PowerEdge 2600 Server: Intel Xeon CPU 2.8GHz 2.8GHz Memory (RAM): 512MBx2 (PC2700, not dual channel) 68GB HD (RAID 5) OS: Windows Server 2000 (32bit) SuperPi 1M digit test: 56 seconds [using 1 processor] (Themes and Aero-Flass UI turned off, of course) I use my computer to regularly run Photoshop CS5, Illustrator CS5, Flash CS5, 5 browsers (Chrome, FF, IE, Safari, Opera), iTunes, Visual Studio 2010, and Kaspersky Internet Security 2010 [sometimes simultaneously :-) ]. The SuperPi test has my dev machine coming in about 30% faster than the Server machine...though this could be due to the server running "Vista" with background processes prioritized. Do you think it would be realistic/advantageous for me to move from my dev machine to the Dell PowerEdge 2600? Is it possible to install additional DVD drives/burners on the server? Can I install my internal 300 GB hard drive on the server? Can I add some USB 2.0 ports? Note: I'll probably install Win XP Pro on the dev machine if I do switch. If not, are there any creative and useful way for me to take advantage of this server (with the goal of faster computing)?

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  • No OS will boot, all freeze

    - by Gyan
    This is for a computer with the following configuration: Asus P5KPL-AM/PS motherboard Pentium D 820 (dual core 2.8 GHz) 1 x 2 GB DDR2-800 Transcend RAM 1 SATA2 Samsung 160 GB HDD 1 PATA LG CD/DVD Writer PS/2 generic Keyboard USB Razer mouse The computer was working fine till a month ago with a Hitachi HDD in place of the Samsung. But that drive died and I sent it in for warranty replacement. Since then and till last week, the computer had not been turned on. I then got hold of a spare but XPSP2-loaded Samsung drive from another computer and decided to get this computer temporarily running. However, when I tried to boot into XP, it didn't load. It got stuck at the first graphical screen. When trying Safe Mode, the file list would be updated up to diskio.sys and then freeze. If I tried to boot Kubuntu off a CD, I would get past the first menu, but then get stuck at the subsequent graphical interface in the loading process. A similar thing happend with a friend's Windows XP-on-a-pen-drive. I switched the RAM into the other slot, but no luck. Then I booted the Ultimate Boot CD and ran Memtest86+ and a couple of the bundled CPU stress tests but these detected no errors. Some searching on the Internet brought up the notion of the CPU failing to switch from "real" to "protected mode". I'm hoping to get a fix on what the problem is and what I can do about it. Edit: I've flashed to the latest BIOS, but that doesn't help. Also, Knoppix LiveCD also freezes. I notice that the LED in my mouse goes off at the time of freeze, but trying to boot without the mouse connected produces the same result.

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  • No digital audio output with Asus Xonar DG

    - by Lunatik
    I've purchased an Asus Xonar DG as replacement for faulty onboard audio in a Medion 8822 as it has an optical output which is all I really need to feed my HTPC. I uninstalled the previous drivers/devices, switched the PC off, inserted the Asus card, powered up, disabled the onboard audio in the BIOS, then installed the driver that came on the CD (same version as on Asus' website as of today) and everything went perfectly - no errors. I set the audio devices up in Windows and in the Asus utility (SPDIF enabled, 6-ch audio) as I would expect to see them work, but the only thing is I have no digital audio from test tones within Windows/the Asus utility, PCM audio or Dolby Digital from DVD. Analogue audio is fine. I've uninstalled things and reinstalled a couple of times now, as well as trying almost all combinations of analogue/digital outputs but can't get it sorted. Does anyone have any tips on how to get this working? This card has just been released so there isn't much out there to go on. Notes: The light on the toslink port is lit. OS is Vista 32-bit SP2 and all up to date, pretty much a fresh install with almost no 3rd party applications installed This page seems to suggest that a digital output device in Windows is not needed with Xonar cards as it was with the previous Realtek so I have it set to Analog. The only other output device is S/PDIF pass-thru

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  • Windows 8: Clean Install Fails BEFORE country Screen

    - by Mark
    G'day, I've been trying to (clean) install Windows 8 on my PC now for over two weeks now, and it's really getting old. You can see here that I've outlined my issue to the Windows Technical Community, which has resulted in... absolutely no help at all. http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_8-windows_install/windows-8-clean-install-fails-before-country/64229d0a-0220-45a9-bdc6-c41062df8a75 Tl;dr? Yeah, me too. Basically, I've shrunk the HDD, it's working (I'm on that PC on XP). I've put both the x64 and the x86 DVD's, AND an another HDD with W8 installed on it from my test machine, and they ALL Fail to load. (I get the slanty windows logo, and after about 10 seconds BOOM. Sad face error screen.) I really don't want to have to remove the video card, or the unevenly/not partnered DIMM in the 2nd Memory channel - because the case is .. stupid, and in an awkward spot, but I'm running out of ideas! PS. I tried turning on ACHI tonight. All that resulted in was XP wigging out about new drivers & explorer.exe crashing. Fun times! :(

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  • What is a good client for handling large amounts of mail ?

    - by ldigas
    Although the title sums it up nice, I'll repeat and explain. What would be a good email client for handling large amounts of mail ? Large portion of mails I receive come with attachments (zip, rar, pdf, dwg, etc.) and within a month I usually have another 1,5-2Gb of new mail. I've noticed that 'standard' Outlook Express (with whose interface I've been very happy) gets awfully slow after a while. Archiving helps but not much. Then I usually take the files, move them onto a dvd, delete all messages I can do without and start anew. The thing is, I would love to have them all in email client since I often go after some old mails (slow projects). So, what would be good alternatives ? If it is portable, that would also be nice, but I can also live without it. post scriptum: I love @gmail, but cannot use it for work. I know I could theoretically forward all of it there, and back, but that approach doesn't make my boss very happy (email handling policies and similar).

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  • Bare-metal virtualisation for the desktop

    - by Andrew Taylor
    Hi, Does anyone have any knowledge about bare-metal virtualisation products? I'm interested in building a new desktop machine for home, I've been looking at the Intel Quad Core processors and I'd like to put 8GB of RAM in there, but, it got me thinking about making the most out of the available resources. I thought if I could get a good 64bit machine, put some bare-metal virtualisation on, then have a primary system, I'd also be able to bring up some extra virtualised systems as and when I needed. I know most of the bare metal systems are designed for the server market, but, is there anything out there that works well for a desktop. What are the caveats? I presume I won't be able to make the most out of any video cards I could buy, what about just getting a decent screen resolution, will this be a problem? I run a single 24" screen. What about DVD/CD writing, is this possible? I'd like to re-rip my CD collection, I was hoping the quad 64Bit goodness would help me out with the encoding. I currently use a Mac and couldn't go back to windows so that leaves Linux, I was thinking a primary OS of ubuntu. Does this make a difference? Thanks Andrew

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  • Format & Fresh Install Mac OS X Snow Leopard on Mac mini.

    - by sagar
    Hello Every one. I have purchased a DVD of Snow Leopard (Mac OS X 10.6.2) I purchased a Mac mini with Leopard (Mac OS X 10.5.7) I tried to install Mac OS X 10.6.2 Everything went perfectly. System was installed successfully. But the problem that I faced is as follows. System was installed but my older data remained as it is. (means installation didn't format every thing - means installation was done on upgrade basis.) Now, my system works with very low speed. Previous performance of Mac mini was double as compare to current upgrade version. Now - my question are as follows. Does an upgrade installation causes the performance issues in Mac OS X? Or is Snow Leopard too demanding for the Mac mini? ( 2 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo, 1GB RAM - is this configuration OK for Snow Leopard? ) Does a fresh install work better than an upgrade?

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  • Will just a couple of thermal "trip" shutdowns typically damage a CPU?

    - by T.J. Crowder
    The short version If a CPU gets so hot that the system turns itself off because of a thermal trip signal just a couple of times, is it likely that the CPU will be damaged? Or does the trip do its job, turning it off before the CPU gets damaged? (This is with all default settings in the BIOS; I haven't raised any temp thresholds or overclocked anything.) The longer version I just got this Intel Atom D510-based fanless system, installed a 2.5" mobile SATA drive and two 2GB PC2-6400s, closed it up, and having checked everything was recognized in the BIOS, set about installing Ubuntu. After a couple of false starts related, I think, to the external DVD drive I was using, I got the install happily running along. About three-fourths or so of the way through the install, having been running less than an hour, the machine turned itself off. I was actually out of the room at the time, but when I came back and turned it back on, it said it had shut down due to a thermal event. I went into the BIOS and saw that (at that point, having just been turned back on after a couple of minutes off), it was running 87C. As near as I can tell from Intel's docs (PDF here), the max "junction" temperature for the CPU is 100C and it will raise a THERMTRIP signal at 125C. Yowsa. Presumably there will be some back-and-forth with the vendor on this, I'm just wondering whether letting it get that hot a couple of times is likely to end up damaging it.

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  • How to Play PC Games on Your TV

    - by Chris Hoffman
    No need to wait for Valve’s Steam Machines — connect your Windows gaming PC to your TV and use powerful PC graphics in the living room today. It’s easy — you don’t need any unusual hardware or special software. This is ideal if you’re already a PC gamer who wants to play your games on a larger screen. It’s also convenient if you want to play multiplayer PC games with controllers in your living rom. HDMI Cables and Controllers You’ll need an HDMI cable to connect your PC to your television. This requires a TV with HDMI-in, a PC with HDMI-out, and an HDMI cable. Modern TVs and PCs have had HDMI built in for years, so you should already be good to go. If you don’t have a spare HDMI cable lying around, you may have to buy one or repurpose one of your existing HDMI cables. Just don’t buy the expensive HDMI cables — even a cheap HDMI cable will work just as well as a more expensive one. Plug one end of the HDMI cable into the HDMI-out port on your PC and one end into the HDMI-In port on your TV. Switch your TV’s input to the appropriate HDMI port and you’ll see your PC’s desktop appear on your TV.  Your TV becomes just another external monitor. If you have your TV and PC far away from each other in different rooms, this won’t work. If you have a reasonably powerful laptop, you can just plug that into your TV — or you can unplug your desktop PC and hook it up next to your TV. Now you’ll just need an input device. You probably don’t want to sit directly in front of your TV with a wired keyboard and mouse! A wireless keyboard and wireless mouse can be convenient and may be ideal for some games. However, you’ll probably want a game controller like console players use. Better yet, get multiple game controllers so you can play local-multiplayer PC games with other people. The Xbox 360 controller is the ideal controller for PC gaming. Windows supports these controllers natively, and many PC games are designed specifically for these controllers. Note that Xbox One controllers aren’t yet supported on Windows because Microsoft hasn’t released drivers for them. Yes, you could use a third-party controller or go through the process of pairing a PlayStation controller with your PC using unofficial tools, but it’s better to get an Xbox 360 controller. Just plug one or more Xbox controllers into your PC’s USB ports and they’ll work without any setup required. While many PC games to support controllers, bear in mind that some games require a keyboard and mouse. A TV-Optimized Interface Use Steam’s Big Picture interface to more easily browse and launch games. This interface was designed for using on a television with controllers and even has an integrated web browser you can use with your controller. It will be used on the Valve’s Steam Machine consoles as the default TV interface. You can use a mouse with it too, of course. There’s also nothing stopping you from just using your Windows desktop with a mouse and keyboard — aside from how inconvenient it will be. To launch Big Picture Mode, open Steam and click the Big Picture button at the top-right corner of your screen. You can also press the glowing Xbox logo button in the middle of an Xbox 360 Controller to launch the Big Picture interface if Steam is open. Another Option: In-Home Streaming If you want to leave your PC in one room of your home and play PC games on a TV in a different room, you can consider using local streaming to stream games over your home network from your gaming PC to your television. Bear in mind that the game won’t be as smooth and responsive as it would if you were sitting in front of your PC. You’ll also need a modern router with fast wireless network speeds to keep up with the game streaming. Steam’s built-in In-Home Streaming feature is now available to everyone. You could plug a laptop with less-powerful graphics hardware into your TV and use it to stream games from your powerful desktop gaming rig. You could also use an older desktop PC you have lying around. To stream a game, log into Steam on your gaming PC and log into Steam with the same account on another computer on your home network. You’ll be able to view the library of installed games on your other PC and start streaming them. NVIDIA also has their own GameStream solution that allows you to stream games from a PC with powerful NVIDIA graphics hardware. However, you’ll need an NVIDIA Shield handheld gaming console to do this. At the moment, NVIDIA’s game streaming solution can only stream to the NVIDIA Shield. However, the NVIDIA Shield device can be connected to your TV so you can play that streaming game on your TV. Valve’s Steam Machines are supposed to bring PC gaming to the living room and they’ll do it using HDMI cables, a custom Steam controller, the Big Picture interface, and in-home streaming for compatibility with Windows games. You can do all of this yourself today — you’ll just need an Xbox 360 controller instead of the not-yet-released Steam controller. Image Credit: Marco Arment on Flickr, William Hook on Flickr, Lewis Dowling on Flickr

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  • Why do my 512x512 bitmaps look jaggy on Android OpenGL?

    - by Milo Mordaunt
    This is sort of driving me nuts, I've googled and googled and tried everything I can think of, but my sprites still look super blurry and super jaggy. Example: Here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bx9Gbwnv9Hd2TmpiZkFycUNmRTA If you click through to the actual full size image you should see what I mean, it's like it's taking and average of every 5*5 pixels or something, the background looks really blurry and blocky, but the ball is the worst. The clouds look all right for some reason, probably because they're mostly transparent. I know the pngs aren't top notch themselves but hey, I'm no artist! I would imagine it's a problem with either: a. How the pngs are made example sprite (512x512): https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bx9Gbwnv9Hd2a2RRQlJiQTFJUEE b. How my Matrices work This is the relevant parts of the renderer: public void onDrawFrame(GL10 unused) { if(world != null) { dt = System.currentTimeMillis() - endTime; world.update( (float) dt); // Redraw background color GLES20.glClear(GLES20.GL_COLOR_BUFFER_BIT); Matrix.setIdentityM(mvMatrix, 0); Matrix.translateM(mvMatrix, 0, 0f, 0f, 0f); world.draw(mvMatrix, mProjMatrix); endTime = System.currentTimeMillis(); } else { Log.d(TAG, "There is no world...."); } } public void onSurfaceChanged(GL10 unused, int width, int height) { GLES20.glViewport(0, 0, width, height); Matrix.orthoM(mProjMatrix, 0, 0, width /2, 0, height /2, -1.f, 1.f); } And this is what each Quad does when draw is called: public void draw(float[] mvMatrix, float[] pMatrix) { Matrix.setIdentityM(mMatrix, 0); Matrix.setIdentityM(mvMatrix, 0); Matrix.translateM(mMatrix, 0, xPos, yPos, 0.f); Matrix.multiplyMM(mvMatrix, 0, mvMatrix, 0, mMatrix, 0); Matrix.scaleM(mvMatrix, 0, scale, scale, 0f); Matrix.rotateM(mvMatrix, 0, angle, 0f, 0f, -1f); GLES20.glUseProgram(mProgram); posAttr = GLES20.glGetAttribLocation(mProgram, "vPosition"); texAttr = GLES20.glGetAttribLocation(mProgram, "aTexCo"); uSampler = GLES20.glGetUniformLocation(mProgram, "uSampler"); int alphaHandle = GLES20.glGetUniformLocation(mProgram, "alpha"); GLES20.glVertexAttribPointer(posAttr, COORDS_PER_VERTEX, GLES20.GL_FLOAT, false, 0, vertexBuffer); GLES20.glVertexAttribPointer(texAttr, 2, GLES20.GL_FLOAT, false, 0, texCoBuffer); GLES20.glEnableVertexAttribArray(posAttr); GLES20.glEnableVertexAttribArray(texAttr); GLES20.glActiveTexture(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE0); GLES20.glBindTexture(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D, texture); GLES20.glUniform1i(uSampler, 0); GLES20.glUniform1f(alphaHandle, alpha); mMVMatrixHandle = GLES20.glGetUniformLocation(mProgram, "uMVMatrix"); mPMatrixHandle = GLES20.glGetUniformLocation(mProgram, "uPMatrix"); GLES20.glUniformMatrix4fv(mMVMatrixHandle, 1, false, mvMatrix, 0); GLES20.glUniformMatrix4fv(mPMatrixHandle, 1, false, pMatrix, 0); GLES20.glDrawElements(GLES20.GL_TRIANGLE_STRIP, 4, GLES20.GL_UNSIGNED_SHORT, indicesBuffer); GLES20.glDisableVertexAttribArray(posAttr); GLES20.glDisableVertexAttribArray(texAttr); GLES20.glBindTexture(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D, 0); } c. How my texture loading/blending/shaders setup works Here is the renderer setup: public void onSurfaceCreated(GL10 unused, EGLConfig config) { // Set the background frame color GLES20.glClearColor(0.0f, 0.0f, 0.0f, 1.0f); GLES20.glDisable(GLES20.GL_DEPTH_TEST); GLES20.glDepthMask(false); GLES20.glBlendFunc(GLES20.GL_ONE, GLES20.GL_ONE_MINUS_SRC_ALPHA); GLES20.glEnable(GLES20.GL_BLEND); GLES20.glEnable(GLES20.GL_DITHER); } Here is the vertex shader: attribute vec4 vPosition; attribute vec2 aTexCo; varying vec2 vTexCo; uniform mat4 uMVMatrix; uniform mat4 uPMatrix; void main() { gl_Position = uPMatrix * uMVMatrix * vPosition; vTexCo = aTexCo; } And here's the fragment shader: precision mediump float; uniform sampler2D uSampler; uniform vec4 vColor; varying vec2 vTexCo; varying float alpha; void main() { vec4 color = texture2D(uSampler, vec2(vTexCo)); gl_FragColor = color; if(gl_FragColor.a == 0.0) { "discard; } } This is how textures are loaded: private int loadTexture(int rescource) { int[] texture = new int[1]; BitmapFactory.Options opts = new BitmapFactory.Options(); opts.inScaled = false; Bitmap temp = BitmapFactory.decodeResource(context.getResources(), rescource, opts); GLES20.glGenTextures(1, texture, 0); GLES20.glActiveTexture(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE0); GLES20.glBindTexture(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D, texture[0]); GLES20.glTexParameterf(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D, GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_MAG_FILTER, GLES20.GL_LINEAR); GLES20.glTexParameterf(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D, GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_MIN_FILTER, GLES20.GL_LINEAR); GLUtils.texImage2D(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D, 0, temp, 0); GLES20.glGenerateMipmap(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D); GLES20.glBindTexture(GLES20.GL_TEXTURE_2D, 0); temp.recycle(); return texture[0]; } I'm sure I'm doing about 20,000 things wrong, so I'm really sorry if the problem is blindingly obvious... The test device is a Galaxy Note, running a JellyBean custom ROM, if that matters at all. So the screen resolution is 1280x800, which means... The background is 1024x1024, so yeah it might be a little blurry, but shouldn't be made of lego. Thank you so much, any answer at all would be appreciated.

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  • Cannot connect to secure wireless with Netgear wna3100 USB

    - by Vince Radice
    I have installed Ubuntu 11.10. I used a wired connection to download and install all of the updates. When I tried to use a Netgear WNA3100 wireless USB network adapter, it failed. Much searching and trying things I was finally able to get it working by disabling security on my router. I have verified this by disabling security and I was able to connect. When I enabled security (WPA2 PSK), the connection failed. What is necessary to enable security (WPA2 PSK) and still use the Netgear USB interface? Here is the output from the commands most requested lsusb Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 001 Device 003: ID 0846:9020 NetGear, Inc. WNA3100(v1) Wireless-N 300 [Broadcom BCM43231] lshw -C network *-network description: Ethernet interface product: RTL-8139/8139C/8139C+ vendor: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. physical id: 3 bus info: pci@0000:02:03.0 logical name: eth0 version: 10 serial: 00:40:ca:44:e6:3e size: 10Mbit/s capacity: 100Mbit/s width: 32 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm bus_master cap_list rom ethernet physical tp mii 10bt 10bt-fd 100bt 100bt-fd autonegotiation configuration: autonegotiation=on broadcast=yes driver=8139too driverversion=0.9.28 duplex=half latency=32 link=no maxlatency=64 mingnt=32 multicast=yes port=MII speed=10Mbit/s resources: irq:19 ioport:c800(size=256) memory:ee011000-ee0110ff memory:40000000-4000ffff *-network description: Wireless interface physical id: 1 logical name: wlan0 serial: e0:91:f5:56:e1:0d capabilities: ethernet physical wireless configuration: broadcast=yes driver=ndiswrapper+bcmn43xx32 driverversion=1.56+,08/26/2009, 5.10.79.30 ip=192.168.1.104 link=yes multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11g iwconfig lo no wireless extensions. eth0 no wireless extensions. wlan0 IEEE 802.11g ESSID:"vincecarolradice" Mode:Managed Frequency:2.422 GHz Access Point: A0:21:B7:9F:E5:EE Bit Rate=121.5 Mb/s Tx-Power:32 dBm RTS thr:2347 B Fragment thr:2346 B Encryption key:off Power Management:off Link Quality:76/100 Signal level:-47 dBm Noise level:-96 dBm Rx invalid nwid:0 Rx invalid crypt:0 Rx invalid frag:0 Tx excessive retries:0 Invalid misc:0 Missed beacon:0 ndiswrapper -l bcmn43xx32 : driver installed device (0846:9020) present lsmod | grep ndis ndiswrapper 193669 0 dmesg | grep -e ndis -e wlan [ 907.466392] ndiswrapper version 1.56 loaded (smp=yes, preempt=no) [ 907.838507] ndiswrapper (import:233): unknown symbol: ntoskrnl.exe:'IoUnregisterPlugPlayNotification' [ 907.838955] ndiswrapper: driver bcmwlhigh5 (Netgear,11/05/2009, 5.60.180.11) loaded [ 908.137940] wlan0: ethernet device e0:91:f5:56:e1:0d using NDIS driver: bcmwlhigh5, version: 0x53cb40b, NDIS version: 0x501, vendor: 'NDIS Network Adapter', 0846:9020.F.conf [ 908.141879] wlan0: encryption modes supported: WEP; TKIP with WPA, WPA2, WPA2PSK; AES/CCMP with WPA, WPA2, WPA2PSK [ 908.143048] usbcore: registered new interface driver ndiswrapper [ 908.178826] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 994.015088] usbcore: deregistering interface driver ndiswrapper [ 994.028892] ndiswrapper: device wlan0 removed [ 994.080558] ndiswrapper version 1.56 loaded (smp=yes, preempt=no) [ 994.374929] ndiswrapper: driver bcmn43xx32 (,08/26/2009, 5.10.79.30) loaded [ 994.404366] ndiswrapper (mp_init:219): couldn't initialize device: C0000001 [ 994.404384] ndiswrapper (pnp_start_device:435): Windows driver couldn't initialize the device (C0000001) [ 994.404666] ndiswrapper (mp_halt:262): device e05b6480 is not initialized - not halting [ 994.404671] ndiswrapper: device eth%d removed [ 994.404709] ndiswrapper: probe of 1-5:1.0 failed with error -22 [ 994.406318] usbcore: registered new interface driver ndiswrapper [ 2302.058692] wlan0: ethernet device e0:91:f5:56:e1:0d using NDIS driver: bcmn43xx32, version: 0x50a4f1e, NDIS version: 0x501, vendor: 'NDIS Network Adapter', 0846:9020.F.conf [ 2302.060882] wlan0: encryption modes supported: WEP; TKIP with WPA, WPA2, WPA2PSK; AES/CCMP with WPA, WPA2, WPA2PSK [ 2302.113838] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 2354.611318] ndiswrapper (iw_set_auth:1602): invalid cmd 12 [ 2355.268902] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_CHANGE): wlan0: link becomes ready [ 2365.400023] wlan0: no IPv6 routers present [ 2779.226096] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 2779.422343] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 2797.574474] ndiswrapper (iw_set_auth:1602): invalid cmd 12 [ 2802.607937] ndiswrapper (iw_set_auth:1602): invalid cmd 12 [ 2803.261315] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_CHANGE): wlan0: link becomes ready [ 2813.952028] wlan0: no IPv6 routers present [ 3135.738431] ndiswrapper (iw_set_auth:1602): invalid cmd 12 [ 3139.180963] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3139.816561] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3163.229872] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3163.444542] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3163.758297] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3163.860684] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3205.118732] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3205.139553] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3205.300542] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3353.341402] ndiswrapper (iw_set_auth:1602): invalid cmd 12 [ 3363.266399] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3363.505475] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3363.506619] ndiswrapper (set_iw_auth_mode:601): setting auth mode to 5 failed (00010003) [ 3363.717203] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3363.779206] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3405.206152] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3405.248624] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3405.577664] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3438.852457] ndiswrapper (iw_set_auth:1602): invalid cmd 12 [ 3438.908573] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3568.282995] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3568.325237] ndiswrapper (set_iw_auth_mode:601): setting auth mode to 5 failed (00010003) [ 3568.460716] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3568.461763] ndiswrapper (set_iw_auth_mode:601): setting auth mode to 5 failed (00010003) [ 3568.809776] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3568.880641] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3610.122848] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3610.148328] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3610.324502] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlan0: link is not ready [ 3636.088798] ndiswrapper (iw_set_auth:1602): invalid cmd 12 [ 3636.712186] ADDRCONF(NETDEV_CHANGE): wlan0: link becomes ready [ 3647.600040] wlan0: no IPv6 routers present I am using the system now with the router security turned off. When I submit this, I will turn security back on.

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  • HP Pavillion DV6500 recovery disk failure

    - by Scott W
    I recently attempted to re-install Windows Vista on an HP Pavillion DV6500 using the factory recovery DVD's, but encountered a strange problem. When the recovery disk attempted to reformat the hard disk, it failed at 22%. The error message provided was not very informative, just the error code "0x400110020000 1005". A google search turned up some people with a similar problem who asserted that HP has been know to ship corrupted recovery DVDs. The recovery disk did manage to reformat the the recovery partition before failing though, so recovering from the partition is no longer an option. It would be possible to reinstall from an off-the-shelf retail copy of Vista and then pull the drivers from HP's website, but I don't have access to a copy of Vista, and it would really be outrageous to have to purchase a new OS when I have a perfectly valid license already. Thought about biting the bullet and upgrading to Windows 7, but my understanding is that without Vista installed I'd be unable to use the upgrade version, and be forced to purchase the more expensive non-upgrade retail copy (!). Can anyone suggest a possible solution to this Catch-22? I've run out of ideas.

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  • Building a PC for Work and play? [closed]

    - by Derek Organ
    Ok, Its been a long time since I build my own PC so I'm looking to get back into it again and build a new one. First off budget is about €800 excluding the monitor and windows 7 licence and mouse. (just bought a new g500) I plan on using my computer for work, lots of applications open at once but none particularly excessive (photoshop being the most demanding, mostly coding tools) I also use it for some gaming, e.g. COD, Starcraft etc. One thing I do want to do eventually is get a really good monitor with hight resolution and maybe 27" so the graphics card needs to be able to make best use of that. So a few questions 1) Is the bottle neck in performance mostly still the harddrives? 2) Aren't most processors e.g. i5 etc even i3 so far a head of other bottlenecks it makes litte difference the higher you go. Isn't the Graphics card dealing with heavy graphics so what really slows because of a slow CPU? So from this my thinking is to get a SSD drive as my primary drive for OS etc and have loads of memory e.g. 6-8GB and a decent mid level graphics card? It doesn't seem at my level worth spending much on CPU and any other parts really. I basic parts off the top of my head Case, Motherboard CPU SSD Drive SATA Drive Power Supply Memory Cooling (fan?) Graphics Card Network Card Keyboard DVD drive Mouse Windows Monitor Am I missing anything? Any helpful tips or general education much appreciated. Thanks, Derek

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  • SATA Blu-Ray drive not detected via USB adapter

    - by LTR
    I'm using an SATA blu-ray drive (Lite-On IHOS104), connected via a USB adapter to my Windows 7 (32-bit) notebook. The first time I plugged the adapter in, it worked perfectly. The drive appeared in Explorer, and my player software was able to play an encrypted Blu-Ray disc just fine. After the first reboot, it never worked again. Now it shows up as "removable media" with a size of 0 bytes, irregardless of whether a disk is inserted or not. The drive does not show up under the green "eject USB device" icon in the taskbar. The adapter is powered using a separate power adapter. I have tried: disconnecting all other USB devices testing with a DVD instead of a Blu-Ray disc letting Windows search for updated drivers for the drive - there are none using the same drive and adapter on another Win7 (but x64) computer. They work perfectly. using other USB ports on the same notebook - tried them all. using a different SATA/USB-adapter What else can I do to diagnose this problem?

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  • Proper High-End Video Editing Software for Windows?

    - by Michael Stum
    I'm wondering if anyone here has experience with Prosumer/High-End Video Editing? So far I use Adobe Premiere CS4, but it is an unstable and buggy mess sadly. This could be partially caused by the fact that my input material isn't always pure HDV/AVCHD but sometimes it can be DivX or some already pre-processed video. The one thing I liked about Adobe is though that with After Effects and Encore, they have a good overall toolset, but if it's sub-par then it's no good. Luckily it is already paid for and was worth it's money overall, so It's not a complete waste of money. But are there alternatives? Especially After Effects is quite unique, and the closest thing I found is Apple's Final Cut Studio which includes Motion and DVD Studio. The two downsides is that it requires a Mac and that it doesn't support BluRay though. Any hints for Windows? Sony Vegas might be something I'll look at, but I'm guessing I have to keep using After Effects for some serious compositing/VFX?

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  • How to install Red Hat Enterprise Linux on Apple Macbook Pro MacBookPro4,1

    - by Todd V. Rovito
    I have a one year old Mac Book Pro that I am trying to get RHEL 5.4 installed on via bootcamp. No matter what I do I can't get the installer to boot. I have tried multiple DVD's and even verified the install works on a new Mac Book Pro. Most of the time the installer simply locks up. I usually use Linux text with all-generic-ide on the boot line. I removed the ide parameter and I just used linux text. The results I get are that a bunch of kernel messages appear then the background turns blue and a thin text box pops up saying its loading ata..... something it disappears too fast for me to read. Then the machine freezes. I pressed the alt function keys to see if I could look at the system log, here is what it says: Alt-f3 says "trying to mount CD device hda" Alt-f4 says status error: hda: lastFailedSense Hda: Failed opcode was: unknown Hda: Lost interrupt Hda: Drive not ready for command Ide-cd: command 0x3 timed out Above this junk it looks like it found the partition because it knew it was 20 GB and listed as /dev/sda3. I think it has something to do with the CD drive, is that possible? Thanks again for the support. PS I posted in the apple support forums ( Apple.com Support Discussions Boot Camp Installation and Storage) and didn't get an answer.

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  • hard drive recognized by bios but not by windows

    - by tehgeekmeister
    I'm adding a new hard drive (A seagate ST31000340NS; I had links in here but I don't have enough reputation to post them. Interestingly, the bios recognizes it as a ST31000340AS, but it was bought as the other number...) to a friend's hp pavilion d4650e (mobo specs; google the model if you want the rest of the info, can't do more than one link.). Have had a hell of a time with it. Finally figured out that the hard drive needed a jumper set to limit the speed to 1.5gbps so the mobo would recognize it, and the bios DOES recognize it now. But not windows (using windows 7), using add new hardware or diskmgmt.msc. According to my friend, who was at the computer when it first booted after adding the jumper, a new hardware found dealio popped up saying something about raid, but I can't provide more info then that since I didn't see it. Ubuntu livecd recognized the drive before we changed the jumper. Haven't checked since then. XP didn't recognize it, that's the OS we started with. Upgraded to 7 hoping it might fix the problem. The only other info I can think of that might be immediately relevant is that the drive is plugged into the fifth sata channel, and the first channel is empty. Is this a problem? I assume not, because the two other drives (in a raid 0) and the cd and dvd drives are also on channels past the first one, and are recognized. Ask questions and I'll update with info!

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  • How can I recover a Fedora 12 installation that is showing signs of disk errors?

    - by Bob Cross
    I am currently overseas (i.e., very far from my normal library of tools) and my primary machine that would normally act as the data server in the performance test that we're trying to run is failing to boot to Fedora 12 properly. This is a machine that, as of yesterday, was booting fine. However, this morning, very strange portions of the boot process were complaining with messages such as "unexpected 0x0 in rpcbind" and "bad file descriptor" (I don't have the error in front of me - scavenged a windows installation to get onto serverfault). Eventually, the boot hung for a long time at the NFS service and then brought up what looked like the KDE login screen but neither the mouse nor keyboard functioned. In olden days, I would try to get to a point where I could manage to run fsck and pray that the bad sectors would come back into alignment just long enough for me to scrape the critical data off of the machine. However, now that we live in the future, it seems like our options in situations like this should be a little more varied. Is there a way to recover a Fedora 12 installation with bad disk sectors that won't boot properly? For completeness, I am comfortable working with bootable recovery distros-on-CD and such but I don't know which one is likely to work best with modern Fedora. In the absence of guidance, I'm frantically torrenting the Fedora 12 Live CD and DVD, hoping to try rescue mode before tomorrow morning.

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  • Cheap desktop computer in 19" rack-mountable form-factor?

    - by Alex Basson
    I'm a high school teacher at a small private school. As of this year, we have SMARTBoards in every classroom (though I've had one in the class I share for two years now). The classrooms themselves don't have computers in them, so we teachers bring our laptops to class and connect them to the boards. This has several disadvantages: This takes a few minutes while we wait for the board to boot up and then orient the board to our individual laptop -- we have to do this every time b/c different teachers have different laptops requiring different orientations. This isn't ideal because when you only have 43 minutes per class period, waiting five minutes just to get started is a real waste. Carrying your laptop to class doesn't sound so bad until you consider that we're also carrying textbooks and piles of student papers, and we're carrying it all through crowded high school hallways. More than one laptop has fallen THUNK to the floor, with dire consequences. We feel we could eliminate the need to use our laptops with the SMARTBoards if we had a dedicated computer in each classroom hooked up to the board at all times. Each board set-up is connected to a podium with a standard 19" rack in it, currently housing a power supply and DVD player. There're plenty of rack spaces available. So I'm thinking: maybe we could get some inexpensive computers in a 19" rack-mountable form factor, install them in the podiums, and connect them to the boards on a permanent basis. Any suggestions?

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  • Trouble cloning a Macbook Pro hard drive

    - by Mirko Froehlich
    I am trying to upgrade the 250GB hard drive in my MacBook Pro (early 2008 model) to a 750GB drive. I have connected the new drive via an external USB enclosure. The drive is recognized fine, I can format it, etc. However, every time I try to clone the drive, I am getting Input/Output errors. Before the clone operation, I have verified both the internal and the external drive using Disk Utility, and they both check out fine. After the clone operation, the external drive shows multiple "Invalid node structure" errors: I have tried two approaches for cloning the drive: Using Disk Utility, by starting from the OSX install DVD Using Carbon Copy Cloner The outcome is the same in both cases. The Carbon Copy Cloner logs show a handful of the following types of errors: rsync: mkstemp "<... an external filename ...>" failed: Input/output error (5) rsync: stat "<... an external filename ...>" failed: Input/output error (5) The actual files affected seem to be different across different runs of the application. Before the last run, I used Disk Utility to (once more) reformat the external drive and explicitly overwrite it with zeros, but this made no difference. I also tried running a surface scan in Tech Tool Pro overnight. It got about 2/3 of the way through before I had to disconnect the drive (had to take my MacBook Pro to work), but so far it didn't report any bad blocks. Assuming it scans the drive in the same order in which blocks would be allocated during actual use, it seems like if bad blocks were to blame for the clone failures, they should have been found already (given that the source drive is only 250GB). As a last attempt, I may try SuperDuper as well, although my understanding is that it uses the same underlying rsync approach as Carbon Copy Cloner, so it's unlikely to perform any better. Are there any other things I should try before I send the drive in for a replacement? Could these problems be caused by my internal drive, even though it works fine and checks out fine in Disk Utility?

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  • Laptop hangs on POST and does not finish except on rare occasions

    - by user1049697
    I have an old Toshiba Satellite A100 laptop that hangs on POST when I try to start it. On rare occasions it does finish the POST and boots Windows successfully, but most times it just finishes it partially and continues to hang. I can enter the BIOS though when it has frozen, but I have to open the DVD-drive first for some reason. The keyboard is not quite right either, and I can't navigate the BIOS properly because the arrow keys doesn't work. I tried an external keyboard, but the problem persisted. I have tried to remove the memory, hard drive, and battery to see if any of these were the problem, but it did not solve it. The one logical thing left to do would be to remove the CMOS battery, but the "brilliant" engineers at Toshiba have place it such that a complete disassembly of the machine is necessary. What this all boils down to is basically the question of whether I can "save" this machine and get it to boot properly, or if I should just send it off to recycling. I suspect it might need costly repairs, but I can't bring myself to throw it away before I have made sure it's completely dead.

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  • HP G61 Laptop wont boot- display stays off, caps and num lock indicators blink repeatedly

    - by Benguy12
    I had my HP G61 laptop running in sleep for a while. When I came back to it about a half-hour later, it was no longer in sleep mode - the power light and the Wi-Fi indicator light were on (I keep Wi-Fi off becuase I use a wired connection) - but nothing was showing on screen. In fact, the display wasn't even turned on. So I let it sit for about 10 minutes but nothing happened. I did a force shut down and rebooted. Instead of a normal boot, the display didnt turn on, the Wi-Fi indicator was off, and the Caps Lock and Num Lock lights just blinked repeatedly. On the external keyboard i use, none of the light indicators were blinking or even on. I tried force shut-down again 10 times, then unplugged all connections except for the power cable (my laptop battery dosent hold a charge for more than 2 minutes, so I always must have a wall connection) and tried to boot again but still nothing happened. I unplugged the battery and even then nothing happened. I also tried booting with the disk drive open, and then with it closed again. On the time it was closed, I was able to successfully boot into Windows, but recieved a "Windows did not shut-down sucessfully" notice. Does anybody know why this may have happened? My PC's specs: Windows 7 Home Premium, 64-bit 4GB of physical RAM, 8GB of vRAM (on a flash drive) AMD Vision x64 processor (don't know any other specs about it) ATI Radeon graphics card, 392 MB DVD-R/W lightscribe drive 2 External hard-disks (first one is 1.5TB, second one is 1TB) custom boot-screen and boot-annimation Standard BIOS apps running before sleep: firefox 10.4 itunes 10.6 adobe photoshop extended CS5.1 rockstar games social club (running in background) microsoft powerpoint 2010 professional edition google chrome I was NOT running Aero or any fancy themes - I was using the normal windows classic theme. I have a desktop icon manager application called Stardock Fences that was also running (it runs as a service/process).

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