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• ReadyBoost in Windows 7

  - by Robert Koritnik

  I've bought an SD card today for my phot frame, but when I inserted it into my notebook I saw I could use it for ReadyBoost. Some background I'm a .net developer, using VMs and developing web applications (and Sharepoint). I use an HP notebook machine with Core 2 Duo 2GHz + 4GB RAM + 320 7200 HD. I simultaneously run Visual Studio 2010 with some plugins SQL Server Firefox with at least 10 tabs Chrome with about 5 tabs IIS VM with Server 2008 machine Sharepoint and occasionally also Photoshop and some InDesign as well. So I don't let my machine have a break. :D Question If I buy myself some really fast SDHC card (like SanDisk 16GB Extreme 30MB/s - is there anything faster) and use it with my Windows 7 ReadyBoost, will I see any performance gain? Is it going to work something similar to Seagate's HybridDrive Momentus with 4GB of solid state drive? What could I actually expect if I do put this card into my machine? And what would be recommended size? Observations I guess redirecting page file to it would speed up the system. Some VM machines on it would probably run faster as well because they could run parallel to HD host system I guess. Am I right or wrong?

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• Nokia 5800 v50, getting "Invalid server name" with ad-hoc wlan with Windows 7

  - by Krunal

  After upgrading to v50 firmware in my Nokia 5800 xpress music phone. I am not able to connect to ad-hoc wlan network in my laptop(Windows 7 OS). I have a dialup internet connection and created wireless ad-hoc network to access the internet in my phone. But I am getting "invalid server name" in the phone and my wireless network access type in Windows 7 shows "no internet access". I am able to connect to wlan infrastructure network using 5800 in my office. So my phone is working with wlan and I m able to access internet on it. BUT The problem is "dial up with ICS enabled" and "AD-HOC wlan network" in Windows 7. Can anyone give some solution on it. Or can you provide a guide/tutorial to connect 5800 with adhoc network and dialup internet in Windows 7. System: Windows 7 Dial up internet connection with ICS enabled. Ad-Hoc wireless network with WEP Nokia 5800 Xpress Music phone Note: I have read other posts also and tried their solutions but didn't worked for me. the first solution is to bridge the network and access it. but how can I bridge the dialup and wlan netwok? second solution is manually configure IP and DNS addresses in phone. But what should I add as IP and DNS as my dial up and adhoc network have automatic addresses.

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• Computer restarts without warning; code bcc116

  - by Robert C.

  Processor: Intel i5 4430 4-Core 4x3Ghz Motherboard: msi h87-g41 Graphics Card: Nvidia GTX760 Power supply: eps-750 cm RAM: 8GB I bought a new assembled gaming PC which worked fine for a few days. Then it started rebooting without warning. After it restarts windows 7 gives me an bbc 116 error code. Apparently it's something to do with my video card, either it overheating or wrong drivers. I've installed the latest driver from Nvidia for my graphics card. Since it's brand new it can't be dust, I'm running it with its lid open to see if the problem persists. I'm also running prime95 now to see if it tells me anything else. Using core temp it tells me that my CPU reaches up to 95° celsius with the blend stress test from prime95. Aaaand it just peaked to 100°. Of course it doesn't reach these temperatures at all while idle/gaming. I'm gonna let prime95 run for a night and to see what happens. Until then does anyone know what I should do next?

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• What speed are Wi-Fi management and control frames sent at?

  - by Bryce Thomas

  There are a bunch of different 802.11 Wi-Fi standards, e.g. 802.11a, 802.11b, 802.11g, 802.11n etc. that all support different speeds. Wi-Fi frames are generally categorised as one of the following: Data frames - carry the actual application data Control frames - coordinate when its safe to send/reduce collisions Management frames - handle connection discovery/setup/tear down (e.g. AP discovery, association, disassociation) My question is about whether all these frames, and specifically management frames, are transmitted at the fastest supported speed available, or whether certain classes of frames are transmitted at some lowest common denominator speed. I have noticed that when I put an 802.11b/g only device into monitor mode and capture traffic over the air, I still see management frames (e.g. association/disassociation) being transmitted between my phone and AP which are both 802.11n, even though 802.11n has a higher transfer rate. So I am imagining one of two possibilities: My 802.11n phone/AP had to negotiate a slower speed for some reason and that's why I can see their frames on my 802.11b/g monitoring device. Management frames (and perhaps control frames also?) are sent at a lower speed, and it's only data frames that are transmitted faster with newer 802.11 standards. The reason I would like to know which one of these two possibilities (or perhaps a third possibility) is the case is that I want to capture management frames, and need to know whether using an 802.11b/g card is going to lead to me missing some frames sent at higher speeds than the monitoring card can observe. If management frames are indeed sent at a slower rate, then it's all good. If I just happen to be seeing the management frames because my phone/AP have negotiated a slower rate though, then I need to reconsider what card I use for packet capture.

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• Integrated Graphics went kaput, can I switch to dedicated graphics if I can't get into the BIOS

  - by Om Nom Nom

  I have an 8 year old computer (Pentium 4 1.6 GHz, 256 MB DDR RAM) which is not turning on (it beeps for 10 seconds and then goes off). Nothing appears on the screen, so I can't get into the BIOS. A computer repair person listened to the beeping pattern and told me that its because of the integrated graphics on the motherboard is defective. It's an ASUS P4S333-VM motherboard and the graphics solution is SiS 650. He tried putting in a PCI graphics card expecting that the computer will use that instead and ignore the integrated graphics, but apparently older computers don't switch automatically to the dedicated graphics card; it needs to be changed from the BIOS. But, I can't get inside the BIOS settings as I already said. I am told that the only option now is to replace the motherboard (which is not feasible since it's very old now). So, is there any way to make the computer use the PCI graphics card? IIRC, the motherboard also has an AGP port, but I think that it will also need to be selected from the BIOS?

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• Is encryption really needed for having network security? [closed]

  - by Cawas

  I welcome better key-wording here, both on tags and title. I'm trying to conceive a free, open and secure network environment that would work anywhere, from big enterprises to small home networks of just 1 machine. I think since wireless Access Points are the most, if not only, true weak point of a Local Area Network (let's not consider every other security aspect of having internet) there would be basically two points to consider here: Having an open AP for anyone to use the internet through Leaving the whole LAN also open for guests to be able to easily read (only) files on it, and even a place to drop files on Considering these two aspects, once everything is done properly... What's the most secure option between having that, or having just an encrypted password-protected wifi? Of course "both" would seem "more secure". But it shouldn't actually be anything substantial. I've always had the feeling using any kind of the so called "wireless security" methods is actually a bad design. I'm talking mostly about encrypting and pass-phrasing (which are actually two different concepts), since I won't even consider hiding SSID and mac filtering. I understand it's a natural way of thinking. With cable networking nobody can access the network unless they have access to the physical cable, so you're "secure" in the physical way. In a way, encrypting is for wireless what building walls is for the cables. And giving pass-phrases would be adding a door with a key. So, what do you think?

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• Recovering a damaged microSDHC

  - by djechelon

  I just bought from eBay a Kingston 32GB microSDHC that was advertised as defective. The seller said that there could be formatting problems or with transfer of large files. Unfortunately, when I got it, it was a total mess. My Nikon camera doesn't read it at all (OK, maybe it doesn't support 32GB) My Linux laptop doesn't mount it: can't read superblock The same laptop refuses to mkfs.msdos because it failed whilst writing reserved sector The same laptop, under Windows, doesn't read nor format the card HTC HD2 mounts the MMC, allows me to write via USB, but is unable to open the just written files OK, folks, now you would say I would have to go through Paypal complaint... that's not that easy. I consciously bought a half-price card that was known to show some defects, and Paypal complaints take time. Obviously, I can't accept somebody sold me a completely use-less computer decoration. So I'll keep it as last option. My question is Do you know a way, under either Linux or Windows, to thoroughly scan, test and possibly repair memory cards, even if I have to lose some percentage of space because of bad sectors? If I can keep at least half of the card intact it would certainly be fine. I used to do broken sector marking with hard disks in the past. I almost forgot: MONSTR:/home/djechelon # fsck /dev/mmcblk0p1 fsck from util-linux-ng 2.17.2 dosfsck 3.0.9, 31 Jan 2010, FAT32, LFN Read 512 bytes at 0:Input/output error

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• After update to Windows 8.1 brigthness isn't working (changing)

  - by Bibo

  I just update my Windows 8 to Windows 8.1 by Windows Store and I have some problems. My notebook is Acer Aspire Timelinex 3820TG and I know it's little old for Windows 8 but I install them and works fine (I updated my HDD to SSD). Now I just updated Windows and I have problem with changing brightness on my dedicated graphic card (Ati HD 5650). First I can changing brigthness with fn + keys but It just changing level in OS. No change in real. I tried reinstall drivers, install drivers for my card from Acer with compatibility to Windows 7 and without change. When I switch to integrated card changing brightness works. I think the problem is with drivers but I don't know how to get it working. Thanks for help Bonus question: I have another problem (but this one is not so important). Does anyone knows what msietxghh.exe is doing? Everytime when my system runs (after update) I get message that this program stops working but I just cancel and looks everything works fine.

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• Virtual Wifi Issue Windows 7

  - by Matt

  Lately I've been trying to use my laptop as a wireless router in my room. I have it connected to my school's network through ethernet, and I want to set up wireless so that I can use Wifi on my Android phone and iPod Touch. In the past, I used Connectify, but I started having an issue where my phone would find the network, connect, attempt to get the IP, and then suddenly the network would disappear. Then it'd pop up again, and the same process would happen over and over. I decided that I'd totally uninstall Connectify, but after that, neither Virtual Router Manager nor the command prompt could create a viable network either. My phone and even my iPod now encounter the same problem. Neither can successfully connect. So evidently there is something wrong with the laptop's virtual wifi feature, and I have no idea what that could be. I've tried enabling certain services that virtual wifi supposedly relies on, but some of them don't start, namely Remote Access Connection Manager. But I also have read that these enable on their own and that if they are normally not enabled it's fine. Furthermore, I even uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers for my wireless card. Any ideas as to why my virtual wifi won't function? Anything? I really would love to get this working...

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• Expanding to dual video cards

  - by Anthony Greco

  I know a lot of factors can go into play here, so I will list my current hardware and setup: MOBO: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5 [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128441] Processor: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103849] Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) [https://secure.newegg.com/NewMyAccount/OrderHistory.aspx?RandomID=4933910872745320111128011418] Current video card: EVGA 01G-P3-1366-TR GeForce GTX 460 SE [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130591] OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Currently I can run 2 monitors just fine in my setup. However, I want to upgrade this to 4 monitors. My question is, what is the best way to do this? I remember in the past reading I need the same type of video card, however would any GeForce GTX work, or do i need that very specific model (EVGA 01G-P3-1366-TR GeForce GTX 460 SE)? Are there any issues I should be aware of before I order 2 new monitors and a video card? Are there video cards better setup for this? I know NVidia offers SLI, however I do not know if my mobo is compliant. My mobo also offers CrossFireX configuration, though from what it says only Radeon are compliant. Any suggestions / feedbacks on my best route with my current setup is appreciated. Even if you suggest buying 2 new identical video cards, as long as you can mention which and why that is better I really appreciate it. Note: I really do not do any gaming. I sometimes do some 3D work in Unity and very rarely in Maya. Besides that I mostly do all my computer work in Visual Studios and Photoshop. I however need the 2 extra monitors because I monitor sometimes 5 remote desktops at once and switching on only 2 is becoming a very big pain. Also seeing 3 side by side while I work on the 4th will be very helpful. Again, I appreciate any feedback, as I have googled a bunch and just want to make sure what I buy will work.

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• How can I get Windows 7 to work with two Nvidia graphics cards with different drivers?

  - by Max

  This is similar to this question, but I am using more similar cards with Windows 7. I just purchased a Zotac Nvidia GeForce 7200 GS. I have a motherboard with two PCI Express x16 slots. There is already an MSI Nvidia GeForce 8800 GTS being used as the primary card, driving two LCD monitors. I would like the Zotac to output to a TV via DVI-out. Unfortunately, when Windows detects the Zotac and installs its drivers, or I manually install them, Windows stops being able to boot up. If I remove them and re-install the MSI 8800 drivers, I can boot again, but Windows can no longer see the Zotac 7200--it shows up as a yellow triangle in Device Manager. I've read conflicting reports about this. Some people claim that Windows 7 will support multiple heterogeneous graphics card drivers, as long as they are all using the same driver API ("WDDM?"). Others say that they have to be using the exact same driver, or it won't work. Others claim that you have to use the exact same card. which is it, exactly? I know I can run the MSI 8800 in SLI if I purchase another, but I don't need that kind of power--I just need HD-out to my television. I read somewhere that running two cards in SLI precludes you from using 100% of their output ports, so I'm not sure if that's an option. I suppose I could also run two MSI 8800's without SLI, but again, that's more power than I need (and more money than I'd like to spend). Also, I don't think this exact model is even manufactured anymore. Any ideas?

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• Turning on Bluetooth disables wifi on Yoga 2

  - by Yostage

  I have a Lenovo Yoga 2. The moment that I turn on bluetooth, the wifi drops out - I lose connection, and connecting again shows "connection failed". If I turn the bluetooth off, wifi can reestablish fine. I've tried lots of different combinations of drivers for both the wifi and the bluetooth, but no combination has has changed this behavior yet. I've read some speculation that the cards have insufficient shielding, but that seems like kind of a large flaw to ship with. I've tried with a Carbon X1, a Yoga 2 Pro, and a Yoga 2 all next to each other on the desk while running InSSIDer. The X1 and the Y2P don't lose wifi connection when the bluetooth turns on, but the Y2 does immediately. The Y2P and the Y2 are running the same drivers for bluetooth and wifi, and appear to have the same wireless card internally. During the failure state, InSSIDer still sees signal strength for my network, but I cannot connect to it. stats: the card that comes in the laptop is an Intel Wireless-N 7260 Intel Bluetooth driver is at 17.0.1401.422 Intel Wireless driver is at 17.0.2.5 Windows 8.1 x64 Home wifi is a Medialink MWN-WAPR150N

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• Number of routers in small community lock up and require reboot.

  - by Anthony Hiscox

  I live in a small town which has one primary ISP. Lately I have noticed that a number of wireless routers have been locking up and requiring a reboot before allowing any connections. This has affected two of my routers, my work router, and a few others. In all cases wired continued to function as usual. Often wireless clients can see the SSID but simply won't connect. I can only think of a few possibilities and was hoping someone here might be able to point me in the right direction: Our ISP is well known to be flaky, something they are doing is causing this, what that might be I have no clue it as seems to affect the wireless only. There's a power issue in town, given our remote location and reputation for crap electrical, this seems reasonable. Only one router was plugged in to a UPS, and I'm not sure of the quality. There is some bug in all the different firmware for every one of these routers (all different). That doesn't seem reasonable, unless; it's an unknown (or known) exploit or DoS of some sort being launched by a massive team of ninjas hell bent on forcing us all to be tethered to our walls by ethernet cables or; it's just been a coincidence and I'm just paranoid (this has some weight, I mean read 4 again). Anyone else experience similar issues and have some tips?

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• can't get to admin page after factory reset netgear wg602

  - by stefanB

  I have wireless Netgear wg602 on my home network (connected to my internet modem/router). I've had it secured and locked down to only accept connection from specific MAC addresses. I've forgotten the password that I used but my Mac Book laptops can still connect (multiple OS updates - it can't retrieve and display the password but it can use it to log in to WPA) so I want to reconfigure it from scratch (have some new devices). I tried to reset the Netgear wg602 to factory settings (pressed reset button for 10 sec), reset my laptop IP address to local address suggested in manual (192.168.0.210 net mask 255.255.255.0), connect Netgear via ethernet cable to my mac book pro but I can't get to the admin page at 192.168.0.227 as suggested by manual (firefox or safari). At this stage the Netgear is not connected to router, it is only connected to mac book. I can't ping the wireless access point either (but it is on all lights are on). What am I doing incorrectly? Last time I configured it via Windows now I only have Mac Book (which I've used with the wireless access point for 2 years so no compatibility problems).

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• ATI firepro will not detect a second DVI-D monitor

  - by John

  OK so weird issue here. I have previously been running 6 screens off of 3 of the older ATI firepro graphics cards but they had a problem with the heat sink getting too hot and warping the PCB resulting in total failure of the card, to replace my three dead cards I purchased a new-type ATI firepro with the newer heat sink design. I'm only using one at the moment to make sure they've fixed the problem before I waste more money on 2 more cards but this is where things start to get weird. The Firepro's only have one port on them, they connect to two monitors via a splitter cable going from the one port to two DVI connectors for the screens. When I plug two identical monitors in via their DVI inputs not matter what I do windows and Catalyst will only detect one screen. However if I use the VGA input on one of the screens with a VGA - DVI adaptor to plug it in to the card it works fine. This confuses me greatly. I'm currently using the ATI Firepro 2270 Graphics card with identical DELL U2311H screens. I can post the rest of the system spec as well if needed but I wouldn't have thought it would make much difference as it had no problem handling 6 screens before the graphics cards failed. Naturally both catalyst and ATI drivers are the most current version. ATI tech support has been absolutely zero help, they seemed to get stumped as soon as I verified that both screens were plugged in and connected properly. Anyone have any ideas?

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• How to monitor bandwidth use of each device on wifi network

  - by GWLlosa

  I have in my home a standard Comcast cable internet connection. I have it going from the wall to a cable modem, and from the modem to a late-series Linksys router, which provides wired and wireless networking. The vast majority of the users are wireless connections. For day-to-day tasks, this connection is fully sufficient for all my needs. However, on regular occassions, we have social gatherings that involve many people bringing laptops and other PCs and using the network and internet simultaneously, frequently for gaming. I have no administrative oversight over these machines; they have been known to be riddled with spyware and/or bloatware or be running torrents, legal or otherwise. The only reason I care is that on a regular basis, one of the machines will flatline my internet bandwith, and consume it all in order to upload/download/spam people/whatever. When this happens, the latency of the connections for gaming and the like becomes unacceptable, and everyone suffers. My question is: Is there a system I can set up whereby I can easily monitor the various systems connected to my wireless connection, see how much bandwith each one is using, and for what ends? That way, at a glance, I can spot the offending machine and kick it from the connection, without having to go from machine to machine, checking each one's "bandwith used" properties manually, and dealing with the owner's indignant protests all the while. I understand this will likely involve 3rd-party software and/or hardware; my issue is I don't even know where to begin.

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• Can Internet data be used by malware when PC off?

  - by Val

  I have noticed over the last month that my off peak data has been used at a rate of approx 350MB per hour - this has meant that I have gone over my quota and slowed down by my ISP to 256k. There is no one in the house using it (2am-8am is my ISPs off peak hours) at that time. My PC and other wireless devices (ipad and iphone) are turned off. I have changed the wireless password on my modem 3 times and it is now 30 digits long. So I don't think someone else is using my wireless access between 2-8am. It has been suggested by my ISP that I may have malware/spyware on my computer. Sorry for my ignorance, but can malware still run if the PC is off? I did look at my modem's log and followed an IP address to a service called Amazon Simple server Storage. Could this company possibly be the culprit? I am not too tech savvy, so any assistance appreciated. I have run a barrage of spyware cleaning software eg malware bytes; spy bot etc.... Cheers Val

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• Ubuntu 10.04 network manager issues

  - by Shark

  I was using the default network manager to connect to my wi-fi network, but if the connection is dropped or router restarted the network manager wont reconnect automatically after i guess a couple of tries and just gives a pop-up to connect manually . To avoid this annoyance I installed WICD but though it does try to reconnect to the network after a drop in connection it is unable to resolve the ip address and i am left with an even bigger annoyance . 1. Is there a way to counter either of these issues ? 2. Something like a background process that will check network status periodically and then try to connect to a favored network ? Edit- out put of lshw -C network *-network description: Wireless interface product: Broadcom Corporation vendor: Broadcom Corporation physical id: 0 bus info: pci@0000:12:00.0 logical name: eth1 version: 01 serial: c0:cb:38:18:9b:7f width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm msi pciexpress bus_master cap_list ethernet physical wireless configuration: broadcast=yes driver=wl0 driverversion=5.60.48.36 ip=192.168.11.2 latency=0 multicast=yes wireless=IEEE 802.11 resources: irq:17 memory:fbc00000-fbc03fff *-network description: Ethernet interface product: RTL8101E/RTL8102E PCI Express Fast Ethernet controller vendor: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. physical id: 0 bus info: pci@0000:13:00.0 logical name: eth0 version: 02 serial: f0:4d:a2:94:2d:74 size: 10MB/s capacity: 100MB/s width: 64 bits clock: 33MHz capabilities: pm msi pciexpress msix vpd bus_master cap_list rom ethernet physical tp mii 10bt 10bt-fd 100bt 100bt-fd autonegotiation configuration: autonegotiation=on broadcast=yes driver=r8169 driverversion=2.3LK-NAPI duplex=half latency=0 link=no multicast=yes port=MII speed=10MB/s resources: irq:29 ioport:e000(size=256) memory:d0b10000-d0b10fff(prefetchable) memory:d0b00000-d0b0ffff(prefetchable) memory:fb200000-fb21ffff(prefetchable)

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• A router that supports connecting with 2 different wifi networks

  - by Allan Deamon

  I Have the following setup in one place: We have a small local ISP through wireless. I have a external parabolic antenna, connected to a external usb wifi radio, connected through USB to a desktop old PC. The pc connects do the ISP wiki network, then do a Dial Up (PPPoE) connection through the this wifi setup. This will expand with others mobiles devices to be used. When I need, I take my home wireless router and connect though Ethernet in the PC, which is shares the internet. The problem is that the PC must be always ON and working. I would like to buy a wireless router which could be an AP to the mobile devices, notebooks, etc, as also could connect to the ISP Wifi/PPPoE network. So, this device must: Have one radio with detachable antenna to connect to the external antenna. It must connect as client to a network and then dial up the PPP Have another radio serving as AP (infrastructure) to the local place This can't be very expensive. I found a candidate: ( http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?categoryid=1682&model=TL-WR2543ND ) It have 3 deatachable antennas, working with dual band. Officially, his firmware doesn't support it. My supposition: If internally there is 3 or 2 distinct wlan ports (like wlan0, wlan1), and there is support, i could use a OpenWRT, DD-WRT or Tomato to make this works. It also have 1 USB port, which I cold use to connect my actual USB Wifi card on it instead to the old PC. Another alternative, is a router that can do this out of box, with the original firmware. But I don't think this is a easy thing to find.

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• Hearing a clicking noise from soundcard all the time

  - by Mehrdad

  I have installed Fedora 17 on my laptop. A few days ago I updated my fedora (but not upgraded). I shut down my computer and since the next time I turned it on I am hearing a clicking noise all the time from speakers. Even when I plug my headphones in I hear the noise through the headphone. I surfed over the internet and found the following shell commands: su -c 'echo "options snd_hda_intel power_save=0" /etc/modprobe.d/snd_hda_intel.conf' su -c 'echo 0 /sys/module/snd_hda_intel/parameters/power_save' I tried them but they didn't work. Here is the part of "lspci" command related to my sound-card: 00:1b.0 Audio device: Intel Corporation 82801FB/FBM/FR/FW/FRW (ICH6 Family) High Definition Audio Controller (rev 03) I have to add that my sound-card is working and I can play some audio file, I mean I can hear the voice and noise simultaneously. But everything is OK in windows xp which is also installed on my laptop. Could it be related to the sound-card driver? If so, how can I revert it to the previous version?

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• linux shutdown hang with wifi cifs mounts

  - by Sirex

  Since fedora 15 (and now with 16) it seems that wireless clients take a long while to shutdown when they have network filesystems mounted at shutdown time. I've pushed out a cifs mount via puppet, and all clients have it, including those on wireless. If say a laptop is on a wired connection it shuts down just fine, but if its on the wifi at the time (and no wired connection) it'll hang at the fedora f logo. I'm not sure if its indefinite or just a really long while, but ill give it a test when i shut this machine down in a second. Needless to say its pretty annoying, so is there a way of causing the machine to shutdown even if network connectivity has been lost at unmount time, -- or an official way to reorder events so the wireless card is kept up until after the unmount happens during the shut down process (short of writing a custom script for shutdowns which is a bit of a kludge) ? It does this on multiple machines, and all started doing it when we went from fedora 14 to 15. It was such an obvious issue i'd kind of assumed someone must have reported it or there was an easy fix, but i've not discovered anything yet. Additional info: I can confirm that manually unmounting the mounts then shutting down (sudo shutdown or the xfce shutdown button) will shutdown just fine, it only hangs if the mounts are still mounted The puppet config that sets the mount looks like this (now with the _netdev entry that is indeed pushed to clients successfully, but makes no difference): file { "/mnt/share": ensure = directory,} mount { "/mnt/share": atboot = true, ensure = mounted, remounts = false, fstype = cifs, device = "//srv/share", options = "user,gid=shareusers,uid=${user},file_mode=0700,dir_mode=0700,credentials=/root/.smbcreds,_netdev", require = [ File["/mnt/share"], Group["shareusers"] ], } }

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• Windows 7 x64 support for Intel GMA 3650 (or GMA 3600)

  - by Loom

  I recently purchased an Intel D2700 MUD motherboard and I cannot find drivers for the Win7 x64 integrated graphics (Intel GMA 3650 aka PowerVR sgs545). The accompanying CD contains Win7 x32 version only. When I run it I got an error: This computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing the software. I tried to use online utility Intel Driver Update Utility Graphics. I used Chrome, Firefox, Internet Explorer without success. First, UAC prompt appear, and then endlessly spinning progress-bar with text "Analyzing computer...". The text in UAC prompt is: Program file name: System Requirements Lab Verified publisher: Husdawg, LLC I downloaded this utility (intel_srldetect_4.5.5.0) and started it from my hard disk. I got an error: A network error occured while attempting to read from the file: C:\Users\Loom\Downloads\SystemRequirementsLab_intel_4.5.5.0.msi Standard VGA driver works for this video card but without hardware acceleration: Hardware acceleration is either disabled or not supported by your video card driver, which could slow game performance. Make sure you have the latest video card driver installed and that hardware acceleration is turned on. Where I can get appropriate driver?

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• What sound cards are there besides Creative's that offer benefits for gaming?

  - by Vilx-

  Many years (6? 7?) ago I bought an Audigy sound card to replace the onboard sound and was astonished at the improvement in games. It was a completely different sound, the whole experience became way more immersive. As the time has passed however the card has become old. The support for the latest Windows versions is declining and newer technologies have definitely been developed. So I was starting to wonder - what newer hardware exists? Sure, there is the Sound Blaster X-Fi, but that's quite expensive and I'm not entirely thrilled by past policies of Creative either (like the whole affair with Daniel_K). But are there any alternatives? EAX is a patent by Creative, so it's doubtful that any other manufacturer has implemented it. And I haven't heard of any competing standards either. To clarify, what I would like is something like a "sound accelerator". A sound card that would offload sound processing from my CPU while at the same time giving astounding effects that would be impractical to do on CPU in the first place. I'm not interested in absurd sampling rates (for the most time I can't tell MP3 and a CD apart) or uncountable channels (I'm using stereo headphones). But I am interested in special effects in games. Are there any alternatives or is Creative a monopoly in this market?

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• Graphics artifacts/distortion with Win7 and nVidia

  - by Gepard

  Problem I encounter is rather hard to describe, so I provide a screenshot: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1732760/video-distortion.png As you can see there are some horizontal stripes in random colors. These stripes appear sometimes in all windowed apps, games and on the desktop too. They tend to stay in place until I refresh window (or force it to to redraw by for example minimizing and maximizing again). They also tend to appear in the same place and shape multiple times, even if they disappear, it's very likely they will be again in the same place after a while. These artifacts do not blink or change if computer is idling. If I don't touch anything, do not use mouse, they will stay in place forever (unless some app redraws its window on its own). I first encountered this problem some weeks ago. Back then I thought it might be cooling problem, so I took out the graphics card, removed dust from the radiator and fan and put it into PC back. I also ran some stress test using Furmark (peak tempearature was ~65C) to see if the problem becomes more intense if the card gets hotter, but suprisingly no artifacts whatsoever appear during the stress test. Graphic card is Galaxy GeForce 7300 GT with DDR3 memory, was never overclocked. Drivers are the latest, from Nvidia site. OS is Windows 7 64-bit, updated. AMD64 3000+, 2GB RAM. I'm running a dual monitor setup with 2 19'' Samsung LCDs and problem is on both, so I assume it's not a monitor or cable issue.

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• Computer makes odd noise. Replace almost every component. Computer still makes odd noise.

  - by ShimmerGeek

  My PC was getting pretty old, 5 years or so, and over the course of it's life I replaced the graphics card, HDD and a couple of sticks of RAM; but the PSU, processor, motherboard, fans etc. were all original. A few weeks ago, I started hearing an odd noise. I struggle to describe it, it sounded sortof like the 'click of death' you hear when a HDD may fail, but not quite... (And it was far less irregular) Also, I was sure I heard it once or twice a minute or two after I shut down the PC. This was going on very irregularly for a couple weeks. Some days I would hear no noise at all, others I would hear it often, maybe once every 30 seconds or so. I could find no common denominator - i.e. it did not happen more during gaming or any other intensive use. Anyway, I need my PC to sit some classes over the summer, so I put it in for them to run a HDD stress test and to replace a bunch of the components. I ended up replacing almost everything - the only elements I still have are my blu-ray drive and graphics card. They said when they started to run the HDD stress test it failed instantly (They started the test and it immediately said 'Test Complete' so they assumed it was at fault, and put a new HDD in since I was still under warranty with them.) I took it home a few hours ago, and I am still hearing the noise!!! Do you guys have any theories? I'm getting a little worried, I can't afford for my PC to suddenly fail during the next month - I have a lot of coursework to do. Any thoughts? Is it possible it could be the fan on the graphics card? I'm confused because it's so irregular. Any help would be much appreciated.

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