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• Vista gets stuck in an endless loop while booting

  - by Mason Wheeler

  I put my laptop to sleep last night, and when I woke up this morning... it didn't. So I tried to reboot, and everything went fine until it got to the Vista splash screen, where it's supposed to display the logon. Here, it hits an endless loop: Display the cursor with the blue spinny thing that replaced the hourglass, for 5-10 seconds Display "Please wait..." for about half a second Screen flashes to black, then quickly back to the Vista splash screen Goto step 1 The whole time, my hard LED is on almost non-stop. I can boot into Safe Mode... sometimes. Sometimes it'll load all the drivers, then sit there for about 10 minutes, spinning the hard drive non-stop, then reboot with no warning. I tried booting to Last Known Good Configuration. Didn't fix anything. When I've managed to get into Safe Mode, I tried running CHKDSK. Didn't fix anything. I tried running System Restore to each of my last two restore points. Didn't fix anything either time. I ran a virus scan. Didn't find anything. I tried calling the manufacturer (Alienware), only to discover that my warranty expired last freaking week and now I can't get it fixed without paying exorbitant sums of money. I'm about at my wits' end here. Has anyone seen this problem before? Does anyone know how to fix it? Does anyone know a solution that does not involve reinstalling the OS and losing an entire year's worth of program installations, Windows Updates and configuring and tweaking things until it's working just like I want it to?

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• Android failure to boot on LG [migrated]

  - by Ukavi

  I need to recover data from my AT&T LG Thrill Android Phone Background: My AT&T LG Thrill phone's battery died a couple of days ago because I forgot to charge it. When I charged the phone and tried to turn it on, it showed the LG logo followed by the dropping balls and the AT&T "Rethink Possible" screen. I then get a mesage that the Application Google Services Framework has crashed and the phone goes into a loop with the dropping balls showing again followed by "Rethink Possible" screen. This sequence repeats itself over and over and the phone does not get out of this loop. I have been able to go into the recovery screen (both Safe Mode and the Android Recovery Service) and have cleared cache, etc. However, I DO NOT want to wipe user data and restore to factory settings as this will wipe all of my data (pictures, application data, etc). Solution Needed: I need a suggestion to a way of accessing my data so that I can back it up onto an SD card/computer. I DO NOT want to root the phone as this may void the warranty. What I'm looking for is a way of perhaps putting the original flash image on the micro SD card and then have the phone read that image. Or some other similar solution that will get the phone out of this loop and allow me to get to the data.

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• Windows Server 2003 DC hangs after network drivers update

  - by tcv

  Earlier today, we attempted to update the Broadcom BCM5716C network drivers on a Windows Server 2003. (Dell PowerEdge T310, FWIW). Since then we have not been able to boot the server in any normal mode. Safe Mode works. Safe Mode with Networking and regular bootups hang at "Applying Network Settings." I haven't tried Last Known Good Configuration nor have I tried Directory Services Restore Mode. I should also mention that the longest I've allowed "Applying Network Settings" was perhaps 30 minutes. I spoke to Dell since the server is under a basic warranty. They sent me the original Broadcom drivers. The trouble seems to be, however, that since I can only boot in Safe Mode, I can't install the application package as given. In safe mode, I receive the error: "The system administrator has set policies to prohibit this installation." I can install the drivers independently, but that doesn't allow the NICs to work. The most I've been able to get are Code 10 errors on each NIC. I plan to get back to the site tomorrow to attempt installation of a different NIC. I'm wondering what else I can try.

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• Hard drive had reallocated sectors...but now it magically doesn't! Can I trust it?

  - by rob

  Last week my SMART diagnostics utility, CrystalDiskInfo, reported that the external hard drive that I was saving my backups to had suddenly reported 900+ reallocated sectors. I double-checked to confirm, then ordered a replacement drive. I spent all of this week copying data from that drive to the new drive. But toward the end of the copy, something peculiar happened. CrystalDiskInfo popped up an alert that the reallocated sector count had gone back down to 0. I know that when SMART detects a read error on a block, it adds that block to the current pending reallocation list. If it subsequently is successfully written or read later, it is removed from the list and assumed to be fine, but if a subsequent write fails, it is marked bad and added to the reallocated sector count. What concerns me most is that I've never read anywhere that a sector can be recovered as "good" after it has been marked as a bad sector and remapped. I've just finished running an extended SMART diagnostic, and it found no surface errors. Now I'm doubtful that the manufacturer will honor a warranty claim if the SMART info does not report any problems. Has anyone had this happen? If so, then is the drive, indeed, okay, or should I be concerned about an imminent failure?

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• Overheating Toshiba Satellite L300

  - by ldigas

  A coleague of mine's having trouble with his new Toshiba Satellite L300 ... I tool a kook at it, and indeed it's hot as hell. I couldn't hold my hand on it for too long. He says it also has a tendency to turn itself off (WinXP 32bit running) with no forewarning. Hasn't happened to me while I was using it, but that wasn't long anyways. The first guess was it was too dirty ... problem is it's new, came out of a package a quarter of a year ago. Kept in a clean environment (office). Looks clean. No dust in sight. Second guess is that the fan wasn't working properly, cause indeed it has intervals of working, and non working. But when I listen to it, it sounds like normal usage. I took a SpeedFan measurement, and it reports temp. up to 85 Celsius ... which is definitely too high. Anyone knows what else I could do to it ? It is under warranty and it will go to the service, but I thought if there is something we can do, as to avoid carrying it there / be without it for a week ...

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• Annoying trackpad freeze on MacBook [solved]

  - by Hafthor

  NOTE: Question marked answered because it was forced after being put up for bounty. Actual solution was to have Apple repair it. Trackpad usually works, but sometimes stops responding for around 5 seconds and then suddenly starts working again. Seems to happen when I switch between typing and moving + button-clicking and also when I do a lot of double-clicking. Tried turning off the "Ignore accidental trackpad input". Apple replaced the keyboard/mouse under warranty. Problem remains. Any ideas? Edit: White non-unibody Late-2008 13" MacBook - fully up-to-date OS. Doesn't seem to matter if it is plugged in or not. Edit: Updated to Snow Leopard - seems to have made it worse. Edit: Applying even a little pressure to the left palm rest creates this condition. Apple replaced the top case again and this time it seems to have fixed it. Although, it looks like they may have added a spacer on the left palm rest to "fix" it.

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• Melting plastic around DC-in jack in laptop

  - by Ove

  I recently noticed that the plastic around the DC-in jack of my laptop was warped (melted) a little bit. Since I noticed, I have done some experiments, and saw that the metal tip of the charger heats up very much when I am gaming, or performing CPU-intensive work (it's so hot that i can't hold it between my fingers). When I am using Windows normally (web browsing, music, video), the tip is not hot. I tried using another charger from a compatible laptop, but its metal tip overheated as well, so the problem is not caused by the charger. I have been using this laptop for gaming for 1.5 years and I never had this problem. When gaming I always use a laptop cooler. Dust is not the problem (i cleaned out the dust), and the CPU and GPU temperatures are not higher than when I got the laptop. The only thing that is excessively hot is the charger tip. Because I bought my laptop from the USA, sending it to warranty and back would cost more than the laptop's value, so I need to fix it myself. I have googled around, and I saw that the problem might be the DC-in jack that is located on the motherboard of the laptop. I plan to take the laptop apart and see if it has become loose, and soldering it in place if it has. My questions for you are: Did anyone deal with this problem in the past? Did anyone manage to fix it? Is the DC-in jack the culprit in this case? Or is it possible for the problem to be caused by another part on the motherboard? Is there any way I can check the DC-in jack with a multimeter? What should I measure (resistance, etc)? EDIT: My laptop is a Sager NP5135 (aka Clevo B5130M). I also posted on NBR, including some pictures: link

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• Terrible noises from subwoofer of ACER Aspire 6930 with Realtek sound chip

  - by OneWorld

  After approximately 5-15 min of listening to music my subwoofer begins to make terrible noises. He's just "coughing". That began after 6 months I had this computer. Now I found out, that I can temporarily fix this problem by "restarting" the audio stream of the application that plays music. For example reloading last.fm page (reloads the flash file). Another way to reset the audio playback is switching the speaker configuration shown below in the screenshot. According to many posts on the internet like http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/52918-20-acer-aspire-6935g-speaker-problem ACER support isn't any help Exchanging hardware doesn't fix the problem Even the later models have this problem Turning off the volume of the subwoofer is not an option to me. I still have warranty (I bought an extension of one year). I already tried about 15 versions of the Realtek driver with no success. I am not sure but MAYBE the problem did not occur on the original windows vista that was shipped with this computer. However, I removed the original windows for good reasons (english). What do you suggest me? Did anyone fix this problem? Maybe by writing a script which resets the audio streams every 5 minutes? Shall I take the effort to deal with the acer support until they give me another model? (I won't have a computer than for a longer time, will spend money on telephone hotlines (1,30 EUR / min)......) Here are additional infos, if they are any help: Windows 7 64 Bit (Original was Windows Vista Home Premium 32 Bit) All specs Audio driver version:

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• Software way to cool down an old MacBook Pro

  - by notMacBookProSuperUser

  Hi all, First a little background: I've got lots of computers, including Linux PCs and two MacBook Pro (and a MacMini). My concern is with my 'old' MacBookPro (Core Duo). It really does overheat. Warranty is long void. Years ago (I'd say 2.5 years ago or so) one day it overheated so bad that the battery inflated due to the heat. I got a new battery for free but it's still getting incredibly hot (much other than any other computer I've got: my newer Core 2 Duo MacBook Pro doesn't get nearly as hot as the old one. It s really a pain because I use my old MBP when I m in front of TV, having it on my lap, and it can really become unbearable. I don't want to open that old MBP. On Linux I can force a new CPU 'governor' that decides how the CPU is allowed to operate: it can be 'on demand', 'always max speed', 'always speed x', etc. Does the same exist under MacOS X? Is there a way, say if a 1.86 Ghz Core Duo can run at 1.6 Ghz, to ask MacOS X: "never run this CPU above 1.6 Ghz" ?

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• Have it fixed or buy a new one?

  - by Workshop Alex

  My dual-monitor system has just become a single-monitor system again when the older monitor decided it would be nice to just turn to black. It's a Samsung LCD monitor and is over three years old. Not sure if the warranty is still valid but I just wonder what option would me more efficient: 1) Have the monitor fixed for a small amount. 2) Buy a new monitor for a slightly bigger amount. When monitors were still expensive, I wouldn't doubt about this and would just have my monitor repaired. But prices are so low nowadays, (and repairs are expensive) that I wonder if it's worth the trouble... Of course, I'm in no hurry since I still have another monitor. It's just that I liked the dual-monitor setup. Solved! Just ordered a new monitor. A Samsumg Syncmaster T260HD 25,5". Much more than it would cost me if I just had my old one repaired but I noticed that this one has a build-in TV tuner, plus speakers. It's way more expensive than a repair, but it's worth the additional value it provides.

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• What can I do to prevent system power downs?

  - by Joe King

  Yesterday I was given my brother's old laptop - core i7, 2.67GHz, 8GB RAM, 128GB SSD, Win7 64 bit. It's a Sony Vaio Z11. Approx 18 months old. When running something computationally intensive, the fan starts up and after about 30 secs it just powers itself down with no warning. I guess it is overheating. There is nothing in the event logs to suggest what is causing it - the only thing I see is "the last system shutdown was unexpected" or something similar. This is a problem for me because I use a lot of number crunching apps, which pretty much makes it useless to me. I would like to know if there is anything I can do, other than the obvious things I've done already - open up and clean out dust, re-install the OS. According to my brother, this problem started about 6 months ago when it was already outside warranty. If it's just used for simple things - web browsing, word processing etc, the problem does not occur. Any ideas for what I can do to fix this ? Update: I found that the laptop has 2 hardware settings for graphics: Speed and Stamina - the Speed setting seems to use an nvidia GEforce GT 330M, while the Stamina setting uses an Intel chipset. With the setting on Speed, I can hear the fan the whole time, and the system powers down after a short while (5-10 mins) even just doing basic tasks (browsing this site for example), but doesn't shut down if I just leave it switched on. In this mode it also sometimes just freezes the screen and I have to power off myself. However on Stamina setting it only powers down when doing number crunching and never freezes the screen.

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• HP Proliant DL380 G4 - Can this server still perform in 2011?

  - by BSchriver

  Can the HP Proliant DL380 G4 series server still perform at high a quality in the 2011 IT world? This may sound like a weird question but we are a very small company whose primary business is NOT IT related. So my IT dollars have to stretch a long way. I am in need of a good web and database server. The load and demand for a while will be fairly low so I am not looking nor do I have the money to buy a brand new HP Dl380 G7 series box for $6K. While searching around today I found a company in ATL that buys servers off business leases and then stripes them down to parts. They clean, check and test each part and then custom "rebuild" the server based on whatever specs you request. The interesting thing is they also provide a 3-year warranty on all their servers they sell. I am contemplating buying two of the following: HP Proliant DL380 G4 Dual (2) Intel Xeon 3.6 GHz 800Mhz 1MB Cache processors 8GB PC3200R ECC Memory 6 x 73GB U320 15K rpm SCSI drives Smart Array 6i Card Dual Power Supplies Plus the usual cdrom, dual nic, etc... All this for $750 each or $1500 for two pretty nicely equipped servers. The price then jumps up on the next model up which is the G5 series. It goes from $750 to like $2000 for a comparable server. I just do not have $4000 to buy two servers right now. So back to my original question, if I load Windows 2008 R2 Server and IIS 7 on one of the machines and Windows 2008 R2 server and MS SQL 2008 R2 Server on another machine, what kind of performance might I expect to see from these machines? The facts is this series is now 3 versions behind the G7's and this series of server was built when Windows 200 Server was the dominant OS and Windows 2003 Server was just coming out. If you are running Windows 2008 R2 Server on a G4 with similar or less specs I would love to hear what your performance is like.

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• Samsung laptop randomly shuts down

  - by Dmatig

  I've rewritten this question because it turned into an indecipherable mess. I have a Samsung R560 laptop that is overheating, and shutting itself down under load consistantly. Thank you quickcel for reccomending me Speedfan to monitor my temps. Here they are (Load / Idle): (Ignore "Temp1 and Temp2", whatever sensors they are they'd always random, pretty sure they're broke). The load temperature is after just 5 minites of playing Fallout 3 - another 5 minutes and it (the GPU - 9600M GS) consistantly breaches the mid 90's then shuts down, so it's hard to get a good picture of it. I'm looking for some solution or way to decrease these temperatures, because they seem far too high even idle. I've tried: Opening up the case and clearing of all dust with compressed air. Updating drivers for my Graphics card Have purchased and am using a notebook cooler I don't want to: Undervolt / underclock (defeats the point of having a more expensive card) Use lower power / performance settings (again, i might as well have bought something cheaper) Is there anything else i can try (software or inexpensive hardware) that can help me fix this? Has anybody had a Samsung laptop and knows if this can be sorted under my warranty, and the turnaround time of sending it off (UK?)(it has always ran hotter than it should, but now at 6 months old is getting hot enough to power off)

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• What was your biggest waste of money, and what should you have bought instead? [closed]

  - by rob

  I waste a lot of money on computer equipment and other electronics that I don't really need. I've also bought software that I've never really used, or which as been replaced by better free software. As I'm buying things, it doesn't seem like much--fifty bucks here, a hundred dollars there. But when I go back and look at how much I've spent over my past few electronics purchases, I usually start to think of the other things I could have bought with that money instead. Most of the computer hardware and electronics don't usually improve my life by much, if at all. Case in point: back when I was in college, I prided myself on getting the best deals for computer hardware, but when I went back and added up all the money I had spent, I had probably wasted close to a thousand dollars on "cheap" $100 hard drives that eventually all went bad (including the warranty replacements). Even if they did still work, it would not be worth the effort to use them, because they're too small and too noisy by today's standards. I've also spent thousands more on other junk, such as RAM and CPU upgrades that only gave modest performance jumps, and wireless audio transmitters that I used for a short time to stream music from the now-defunct Yahoo! Music service. Every time I see a really great deal on RAM or video cards, I come one click away from buying them, but these days I'm usually able to resist. I've been wanting to get into woodworking ever since I moved into my house, and five years later I'm finally saving up for a $600 table saw. Sure, I've already got a toolbox and a couple of the essential power tools like a drill and a jigsaw, but I can't help but think that I'd have an entire shop full of woodworking tools and a lot of nice wood furniture if I hadn't wasted all that money back in college. What has been your biggest waste of money on computer stuff and technology? If you had all that money back, would you make the same mistake again and buy the same types of things, or would you spend it on something else?

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• iMac 20inch (Mid 2007) SL DVD Boot Prohibitory Sign

  - by Caitlann Lloyd

  iMac 20inch (Mid 2007 Build) with Ubuntu 12.0.4 How I got in this situation I had a perfectly healthy Intel iMac running Snow Leopard several months ago. Then I got the dreaded spinning gear and several kernel panics. After getting a little frustrated (failing to find a solution online), I found an old macbook installation disk and used it to access Disk Utility. From here, I erased my entire hard drive leaving me with no OS. I then created a Ubuntu DVD and installed Ubuntu onto the system. Now, on Ubuntu, I wine installed Transmac and burned a Single layer copy (with languages, etc. removed to save space) of Snow Leopard onto a 4.7GB DVD. I tried to boot from it and was met with first the grey apple screen and a spinning cog before the grey apple shortly turned into the infamous prohibitory sign. Note: I met this problem previously when using Disk Utility to create a bootable USB of Snow Leopard, hence I severely doubt it has anything to do with the DVD created. Resources at my disposal 1 x iMac running Ubuntu 6 x 4.7GB DVDs 1 x USB Stick 12GB 1 x Windows 7 Laptop Resources I do not have Firewire cables Access to a prebuilt retail disk (Misplaced) Access to another Mac Apple Warranty I would be hugely grateful if someone was able to tell me how to install Snow Leopard again.

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• MacBook Air i5 4 GB RAM shows screen tearing when scrolling in browsers

  - by Sandro Dzneladze

  I see screen tearing pretty often while scrolling webpages up and down, and it has been like this from day 1. But now I purchased an external monitor which is huge (23 inches compared to the Mac's 11), and the effect is more visible. It is driving me nuts and giving me headaches. I wonder if you see the same. I was reading a lot about this problem, and it seems to be present on MacBook Pros as well? Can someone confirm I'm not alone? In other words: I'm deciding weather to go through warranty repair, or if it makes no sense if all of theme exhibit same behavior. It is shame to see this beautiful machine with an insane price tag to be lagging when browsing web, when the processor is just sitting there idle at 4-12%! This is an example I found on Wikipedia that more or less describes what happens when I scroll up down. The effect is not so pronounced and clears when I stop scrolling, but it is sure annoying the hell out of me. Firefox is tearing like hell, Chrome less, Safari exhibits jagged scrolling but less tearing compared to Chrome and Firefox. With synthetic benchmarks I don't see any problems with hardware. But this is not particularly revealing.

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• Laptop shuts down randomly without warning

  - by Robert P.

  My Asus Zenbook UX32V turns off randomly when I'm working on it. This happens both when the computer is recently turned on (5 minutes), and after being on for several days. I'm not running any heavy software The laptop is not heating The fan is not working on the maximum capacity (it's not heating) It happens when the laptop is lying still on the table It is no warning, it simply goes black It happens both when charging and on battery My guess is that it suddenly lose power somehow. What puzzles me is that I can flip the laptop upside down, sideways, shake it, etc. without it shutting off. This makes me think it's not something that's loose causing occasional short-circuits. I realize that the laptop probably doesn't like flipping and shaking, but it was the best way I could troubleshoot. I rarely turn the computer off, only have it in hibernate or sleep mode (most often hibernate). I've never experienced that the laptop is off when I wake it up from sleep mode. I've had the problem for a few months and it happens 2-8 times a week. Specs: Asus Zenbook UX32V Windows 8.1 (it happened in Windows 8.0 too) Intel i5-3317U CPU @ 1.70GHz The laptop is approx 1.5 years, but it has a small dent on one of the sides that probably voids the warranty. The dent has been there since week one and I don't think it's related to the problems I'm having now. Does anyone have a clue what might cause this, and how it might be fixed? I've read all other questions (some of which are listed below) that seem related to my issue, but none report the same behavior as I'm experiencing. Most report heavy games, heating etc. Asus N53J Laptop randomly shuts down Laptop is randomly shutting off Computer shuts down without warning My laptop acer aspire 5720 suddenly turn off randomly Computer randomly shutting down Windows 8.1 randomly shuts self down ASUS K55VM Laptop unexpectedly shuts down

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• Mac Mavericks, ngircd localhost works, private IP doesn't

  - by user221945

  I have configured ngircd to listen on my private ip address. It doesn't. Localhost works fine. Configuration test: ngIRCd 21-IDENT+IPv6+IRCPLUS+SSL+SYSLOG+TCPWRAP+ZLIB-x86_64/apple/darwin13.2.0 Copyright (c)2001-2013 Alexander Barton () and Contributors. Homepage: http://ngircd.barton.de/ This is free software; see the source for copying conditions. There is NO warranty; not even for MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Reading configuration from "/opt/local/etc/ngircd.conf" ... OK, press enter to see a dump of your server configuration ... [GLOBAL] Name = irc.bellbookandpistol.com AdminInfo1 = Jaedreth AdminInfo2 = San Diego County CA, US AdminEMail = [email protected] HelpFile = /opt/local/share/doc/ngircd/Commands.txt Info = Server Info Text Listen = 10.0.1.5,127.0.0.1 MotdFile = MotdPhrase = "Welcome to irc.bellbookandpistol.com" Password = PidFile = Ports = 6667 ServerGID = wheel ServerUID = root [LIMITS] ConnectRetry = 60 IdleTimeout = 0 MaxConnections = 0 MaxConnectionsIP = 6 MaxJoins = -1 MaxNickLength = 9 MaxListSize = 0 PingTimeout = 120 PongTimeout = 20 [OPTIONS] AllowedChannelTypes = #&+ AllowRemoteOper = no ChrootDir = CloakHost = CloakHostModeX = CloakHostSalt = kBih5mu\kVI!DC6eifT(hd4m/0'zb/=: CloakUserToNick = no ConnectIPv4 = yes ConnectIPv6 = no DefaultUserModes = DNS = yes IncludeDir = /opt/local/etc/ngircd.conf.d MorePrivacy = no NoticeAuth = no OperCanUseMode = no OperChanPAutoOp = yes OperServerMode = no RequireAuthPing = no ScrubCTCP = no SyslogFacility = local5 WebircPassword = [SSL] CertFile = CipherList = HIGH:!aNULL:@STRENGTH DHFile = KeyFile = KeyFilePassword = Ports = [OPERATOR] Name = [REDACTED] Password = [REDACTED] Mask = [CHANNEL] Name = #BBP Modes = tnk Key = MaxUsers = 0 Topic = Welcome to the Bell, Book and Pistol IRC Server! KeyFile = As you can see, it should be listening on 10.0.1.5, but it isn't. After turning on Apache manually, port 80 works on 10.0.1.5, but port 6667 doesn't. It only works on localhost. Is there some terminal command I could use or some config file I could edit to get this to work?

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• Dell PowerEdge 860 won't boot but gets power

  - by fierflash

  I have a Dell PowerEdge 860. Got an 2008 R2 running on it. Here is the scenario I'm currently in: I can boot it up and work as usuall. But when I restart it, it just shuts down, doesn't reboot, and it won't boot up again. Then it stays in this "mode", On/off button blinking green(standby mode?) and System Indicator LED blinking amber. If I try to press the On/Off button on the frontpanel it won't boot. It's like you can hear the fan from the PSU running but nothing else is trying to boot. If I unplug the powercable and then put it back in again it's the same, the extremley noisy fans won't start and it's just sitting there. If I let it "rest" for like 1 to 24 hours while the powercable is unplugged and I plug it in again, it boots directly, without me having to push the On/Off button. What I have tried: Run diagnostics(not the one in POST phase) and everything is fine Booting without any cables except the powercable Boot without memory installed Boot without the raidcable plugged in Cleared NVRAM Reseated all the components and cables Googling like a freak for any possible solution Tried Dell Support but I don't have any warranty left so they can't help me unless i pay some ridiculous amount of money I suppos Do anyone have some experience with the same issue? Do I need to replace something or is there any other way to determine the problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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• How to get data out of a Maxtor Shared Storage II that fails to boot?

  - by Jonik

  I've got a Maxtor Shared Storage II (RAID1 mode) which has developed some hardware failure, apparently: it fails to boot properly and is unreachable via network. When powering it on, it keeps making clunking/chirping disk noise and then sort of resets itself (with a flash of orange light in the usually-green LEDs); it then repeats this as if stuck in a loop. In fact, even the power button does nothing now – the only way I can affect the device at all is to plug in or pull out the power cord! (To be clear, I've come to regard this piece of garbage (which cost about 460 €) as my worst tech purchase ever. Even before this failure I had encountered many annoyances about the drive: 1) the software to manage it is rather crappy; 2) it is way noisier that what this type of device should be; 3) when your Mac comes out of sleep, Maxtor's "EasyManage" cannot re-mount the drive automatically.) Anyway, the question at hand is how to get my data out of it? As a very concrete first step, is there a way to open this thing without breaking the plastic casing into pieces? It is far from obvious to me how to get beyond this stage; it opens a little from one end but not from the other. If I somehow got the disks out, I could try mounting the disk(s) on one of the Macs or Linux boxes I have available (although I don't know yet if I'd need some adapters for that). (NB: for the purposes of this question, never mind any warranty or replacement issues – that's secondary to recovering the data.)

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• S.M.A.R.T. broken sectors

  - by Jeffrey Vandenborne

  Recently I received my hard drive (LaCie) that I've sent away for warranty, my disk failed, and I used Palimpsest Disk utility to check if anything was wrong in the S.M.A.R.T Status. And it said that there were a few broken sectors. So the next day, I went to the store and told the story. 4 weeks later I actually got my drive back. The first thing I did was plugging it in and starting the disk utility, and weirdly it showed me pretty much the exact same things, even the values of most tests were the same as they were before when my drive broke. The serial number is different though, but it does show a very peculiar value. Now I'm wondering, I'm almost sure it's the exact same drive and it still says I've got broken sectors, does it just say that because it has been cached in the drive somewhere while LaCie DID actually fix it? Or should I run the extended self test (which seems to take hours) first? Also I've tried the smartctl command tool, it says the drive has smart support, but it doesn't show anything, it says that it's enabled, but then it says that it's disabled, picture below The picture of the Disk utility: Thanks in advance

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• USB question (how durable is it, how should I workaround this)

  - by Shiki

  The plot is quite simple. Got a Razer mouse. If I plug it in, it works. After a shutdown/hibernation, I have to replug it entirely at the back of the PC. (It works in my laptop even after severel shutdown, etc, so yes I guess it's my motherboard.. but it still got 2 years of warranty and it comes with quad SLI, its not an old motherboard at all. (MSI P7N SLI FI (bought it after a hungarian guy's recommendation)). So. I only could come up with one "solution". Get 3 USB cable (you know, USB-USB). If its possible the shortest ones (don't know if the responsibility/anything will worsen), AND replug only the middle+closest to the USB port junction, since those are replaceable. What do you think? Any other idea? (BIOS is updated, mouse driver ... doesn't really matter, the mouse won't even blink a bit after this happens. It lights up and goes totally dead.)

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• Frequent freezes with constant disk activity on SSD netbook

  - by SamsLembas

  I am running Arch Linux on an HP Mini 1000 with a SSD. The machine is a little under a year old and fairly heavily used. About a month ago the machine started freezing up. During the freezes, the system is almost completely unresponsive, seemingly especially for disk-intensive tasks such as launching an application for the first time since reboot. The disk activity led is always constantly illuminated during the freezes. After somewhere between 30 sec and 3 minutes, the machine returns to normal operation. I am pretty sure that the SSD is the source or the problem. Iotop reports a disk transfer rate of 0 during the freezes, so I think it must be getting "stuck" and simply not performing any r/w during the time. I can't seem to find any information on these symptoms on the Internet, so any input on exactly what might be the cause of this would be greatly appreciated. The machine is under warranty, but I would rather not deal with HP until I actually know what is going on. Thanks.

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• Is reliability reputation of mechanical keyboards overblown?

  - by Rarst

  A while back I worked up to finally buying mechanical keyboard (~$100 range, "black" switches) and was initially quite content with purchase. However just outside first year (read it - as soon as warranty expired) it started to develop repeat issues (press once, get chain of letter repeated) on multiple keys. It doesn't react to generic cleaning (up to compressed air) and searching Internet shows noticeable amount of people with similar-to-identical issues, spanning years. This makes me severely hesitant to buy another mechanical keyboard, considering: every other keyboard I ever owned, including ultra-cheap crap managed to last longer than that typing experience is nice, but not lifechanging-fan-forever nice for me my choice of mechanical keyboards is severely limited not many brands represented in local market and primarily crazy looking gamer models russian (not to mention russian and ukrainian if possible) layout excludes international ordering price tag for a meek year of use I got our of it is plain demoralizing It is obvious mechanical keyboards have their fans, but shopping around for "best fit" or getting into multiple hundreds price tags is probably not something I am highly interested in. Considering my constraints and bad experience with reliability, is it practical for me to sink more money into buying mechanical keyboard(s) again? In other words - manufacturers are beaming about how crazy reliable mechanical keyboards are. Are active long time users of such keyboards confidently of same opinion?

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• Performance decrease in every game and application

  - by Márk Vincze

  When I start a game, initially it runs smoothly, but after a couple of minutes, the performance gradually decreases to the point of being unplayable (1-2 FPS). The sound also starts to lag at this point. This does not happen every time I start my PC, usually exiting the game, rebooting, then starting the game again solves the problem, and I can play with perfect FPS for as long as I want. I could not find any deterministic reason when this happens and when doesn't. It happens in every game I tried (SWTOR, Diablo 3, Skyrim), and not even games, but simple applications like a browser or the Control Panel can get unusably slow. This is a brand new PC I bought three months ago, and this problem occurs since the first day I've been using it. Could you provide any advice how to further diagnose the problem? I tried to reinstall Windows, and tried different video card drivers, but it did not help. It would be important to know whether this is a hardware or software problem, because I can use the warranty if it is a hardware issue. (I did not want to return the PC yet, because I can't reproduce the issue deterministically.) Spec of the pc: Motherboard: ASROCK H61M-HVS CPU: INTEL Core i3-2120 3.30GHz 1155 BOX Memory: KINGMAX 4096MB DDR3 1333MHz KIT Video card: GIGABYTE GV-R685OC-1GD HD6850 1GB GDDR5 PCIE HDD: SEAGATE 500GB Barracuda 7200rpm 16MB SATA3 ST500DM002 I am using Windows 7 64 bit. Thanks a lot in advance!

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